Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:01 AM - Buffing Paint! (Steve Glasgow)
2. 07:27 AM - Re: interiors/seats (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
3. 07:32 AM - Re: Buffing Paint! (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
4. 07:32 AM - Re: Seats (Patrick Kelley)
5. 07:38 AM - Re: To leak or not to leak - that is the question (Mike Stephenson)
6. 08:28 AM - Re: Buffing Paint! (Craig Warner)
7. 09:04 AM - Re: interiors/seats (Tony Castellano)
8. 09:51 AM - Re: To leak or not to leak - that is the question (Phil Birkelbach)
9. 10:05 AM - Re: Seats (C J Heitman)
10. 10:31 AM - Re: Buffing Paint! (kevmor)
11. 10:32 AM - Re: Seats (Joshua Siler)
12. 11:02 AM - Re: To leak or not to leak - that is the question (Tracy Crook)
13. 11:05 AM - Re: To leak or not to leak - that is the question (Tracy Crook)
14. 11:17 AM - Re: Seats (Shemp)
15. 11:21 AM - Elevator Counterweights (Mark Phillips)
16. 12:49 PM - Re: Elevator Counterweights (Pat Hatch)
17. 01:02 PM - F857D STEEL STRAPS (GEORGE INMAN)
18. 01:41 PM - I-Com A22 Battery Pack "Kaput" (Elsa & Henry)
19. 02:10 PM - Wiring ? (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
20. 03:20 PM - Re: Wiring ? (Dan Checkoway)
21. 03:20 PM - Re: Wiring ? (Mark Phillips)
22. 03:27 PM - Re: Wiring ? (Brian Denk)
23. 03:40 PM - Re: Elevator Counterweights (Stanley Blanton)
24. 03:52 PM - Re: Wiring ? (kevmor)
25. 06:13 PM - Pneumatic Squeezer For Sale ()
26. 06:16 PM - Radio and Intercom (Bruce Green)
27. 09:19 PM - Re: Radio and Intercom (James E. Clark)
28. 11:00 PM - Re: Dynon (Karie Daniel)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Hello Group,
Does any one have any experience buffing out Imron or other paints. If so
how do you go about it and what do you use?
I just did some painting and have a little too much orange peal to suit me.
How much can I rub out?
Thanks,
Steve Glasgow
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: interiors/seats |
07/11/2003 08:56:02 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
guys:
Let me tell yall something about Becky and George. They are stand up
people and I am proud to know them and be associated with them. If you all
said something disrespectful to them, I would second guess that and
apologize. For those of you who don't know me I work in the industry and I
can say that if the industry was filled with people like George and Becky
the industry would be better off. I personally would not order seats from
anyone but Becky. If any of you have seen the quality she puts out there
for our rv's you can attest to her work and her work ethic is far better
than a lot of people in this business. There have been many days when Becky
could be out goofing off when the weather was just right to go and play but
she was in the sewing room working her behind off to get the orders out
there. George and Becky heres to you.
Regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Buffing Paint! |
07/11/2003 09:01:43 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
you can polish out the orange peel using a high speed buffer and alumigrip
compound. Be careful not to burn the paint. You also may be able to use a
razor blade if the orange peel has enough "raise" to it to knock off the
high spots before the buffing process.
Regards
Glenn Williams
A&P
Fort Worth, Tx.
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Way to go, Bert. Perhaps you'd like to donate your seats to me because
you are already dissatisfied with them and you've now screwed up my
plans to order seats and interior from George and Becki. I figure you
at least owe me for my now-useless interior video.
Seriously, Becki, don't let a few people drive you from continuing to
provide such a great range of services. You've also seen the positive
responses on the list. Without your products, how many fewer RVs would
be flying today? Speaking personally, I have the entire set of -6A
videos and won't give them up; I keep going back to them for inspiration
on my long, long path to completion. Please don't take it out on the
rest of us because of an obnoxiously vocal minority.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fuselage structure going together
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Becki Orndorff
Subject: RV-List: Seats
--> RV-List message posted by: "Becki Orndorff" <becki@fly-gbi.com>
The recent round of emails concerning customer service does point
out a problem for small businesses, especially the mom-pop shops like
ours. Yes, we should do our best to provide order status information
and in a timely manner. Keep in mind, though, that we can get your
order out to you, or spend time on the phone discussing it. We only
have so many hours in a day and then we do need to sleep for one or two.
Most often I have found that getting an interior order done a week
or two later than originally planned is not a problem as most builders
take longer than they expect to get to the point of needing it. I did
respond to Bert's first post to the list with an email to him asking him
to give me a call. He has not done so. We do our best to answer the
phone each time it rings no matter what time of day or night and do our
best to help the builder on the other end no matter how elementary the
question. And we try to return all the calls we miss. But we can't help
if the builders don't call.
So, until I can determine a way to provide better service in the
seats and interior area, I will not take any more orders. I enjoy
working with builders and regret having to come to this decision.
Becki Orndorff
GeoBeck, Inc.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: To leak or not to leak - that is the question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
Tracy,
I assume that without a fuel valve you are drawing from both tanks all of
the time. Do they draw equally to maintain flight balance?
Mike Stephenson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: To leak or not to leak - that is the question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
> Most builders do lean to your position (get the connections out of the
> cockpit) but I march to a different drummer. Leaks generally don't
happen
> all at once. They start small and get bigger. The human nose is one of
the
> best gasoline leak detectors known to man. I've only had one fuel leak in
> my flying history and I smelled it long before it became a problem.
Bottom
> line, I minimized the number of connections (I don't even use a fuel tank
> selector valve) and put as many as possible in the cockpit. Don't take
> this personally but I hate remote actuated fuel valves. This was a major
> contributor to John Denvers' fatal accident.
>
> Just a thought .
>
> Tracy Crook
> Mazda rotary powered RV-4
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
> >
> > I have purchase a half way finished rv-6a kit that has the fuel line
> > installation, in the fuse, completed.
> >
> > The work is very good, but I count 19 flare nuts that will be riding
> around
> > in the floor with me. This count does not include the vent lines. It
> > appears that it is installed as per the plans, with the fuel value in
the
> > center and the fuel pump inside on the left wall. Adding to the flare
nut
> > count is one tee for the electric primer and another joint for the
> > transducer for the EIS fuel module.
> >
> > Anyway, finally to the questions.
> >
> > Has anyone worked to move more of the connections outside of the cabin?
> >
> > I have seen photos of the fuel pump installed in the wing root fairing.
> This
> > removes 2 flare nuts.
> >
> > I noticed in Aircraft Spruce's Cat - they offer an extension kit for the
> > Andair fuel value that would "perate the value remotely" *see page 155 -
> AS
> > Catalog. Could the valve be mounted outside the cabin wall with the
> > connections in the wing root? This would removes 3 more.
> >
> > Can both the electric primer and the transducer be mounted on the front
of
> > the firewall.This removes 8 more or 9 counting the gasolator.
> >
> > This would leaving only 4 bulkhead fittings with flare nuts, connecting
> two
> > fuel lines that simply pass thru the cabin. One line that connects the
> right
> > tank to the fuel valve (if the value was mounted in the left wing root)
> and
> > a second line from the fuel pump to the firewall.
> >
> > 4 seems much better than 19. What have I over looked.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Mike Stephenson
> > RV-6A canopy
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Buffing Paint! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
Steve
Go to the jobber you bought the paint from. He can sell you ultra-fine wet
sand paper. 1000 to 2000 grit. Use a neoprene hand pad and plenty of water.
Wet sand being careful of rivet heads and high crown areas. A low speed
buffer with the recommended polishing and glazing compounds is how you bring
back the shine. If you need to see this done Eastwood (probibly
Eastwood.com)sells a video for painting cars that covers this in detail.
Talk to the person behind the counter, you will be supprised at how helpful
they can be..
Regards
Craig Warner RV6 still building.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Buffing Paint!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Hello Group,
>
> Does any one have any experience buffing out Imron or other paints. If so
> how do you go about it and what do you use?
>
> I just did some painting and have a little too much orange peal to suit
me.
> How much can I rub out?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Glasgow
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: interiors/seats |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Castellano" <tcastell@bestweb.net>
I second that. I have Becky's seats and interior in my RV6. They are very
comfortable and good looking.
My RV6 has won several awards and I know the seats and interior contributed
to this.
Tony Castellano
tcastell@bestweb.net
Hopewell Junction, NY
RV-6
N401TC
----- Original Message -----
From: <glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: interiors/seats
> --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
>
> guys:
>
> Let me tell yall something about Becky and George. They are stand up
> people and I am proud to know them and be associated with them. If you all
> said something disrespectful to them, I would second guess that and
> apologize. For those of you who don't know me I work in the industry and I
> can say that if the industry was filled with people like George and Becky
> the industry would be better off. I personally would not order seats from
> anyone but Becky. If any of you have seen the quality she puts out there
> for our rv's you can attest to her work and her work ethic is far better
> than a lot of people in this business. There have been many days when
Becky
> could be out goofing off when the weather was just right to go and play
but
> she was in the sewing room working her behind off to get the orders out
> there. George and Becky heres to you.
>
> Regards
> Glenn Williams
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: To leak or not to leak - that is the question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
No fuel selector valve??? How do you switch tanks and how do you shut off
the fuel in case of an emergency?
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: To leak or not to leak - that is the question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
> Most builders do lean to your position (get the connections out of the
> cockpit) but I march to a different drummer. Leaks generally don't
happen
> all at once. They start small and get bigger. The human nose is one of
the
> best gasoline leak detectors known to man. I've only had one fuel leak in
> my flying history and I smelled it long before it became a problem.
Bottom
> line, I minimized the number of connections (I don't even use a fuel tank
> selector valve) and put as many as possible in the cockpit. Don't take
> this personally but I hate remote actuated fuel valves. This was a major
> contributor to John Denvers' fatal accident.
>
> Just a thought .
>
> Tracy Crook
> Mazda rotary powered RV-4
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
> >
> > I have purchase a half way finished rv-6a kit that has the fuel line
> > installation, in the fuse, completed.
> >
> > The work is very good, but I count 19 flare nuts that will be riding
> around
> > in the floor with me. This count does not include the vent lines. It
> > appears that it is installed as per the plans, with the fuel value in
the
> > center and the fuel pump inside on the left wall. Adding to the flare
nut
> > count is one tee for the electric primer and another joint for the
> > transducer for the EIS fuel module.
> >
> > Anyway, finally to the questions.
> >
> > Has anyone worked to move more of the connections outside of the cabin?
> >
> > I have seen photos of the fuel pump installed in the wing root fairing.
> This
> > removes 2 flare nuts.
> >
> > I noticed in Aircraft Spruce's Cat - they offer an extension kit for the
> > Andair fuel value that would "perate the value remotely" *see page 155 -
> AS
> > Catalog. Could the valve be mounted outside the cabin wall with the
> > connections in the wing root? This would removes 3 more.
> >
> > Can both the electric primer and the transducer be mounted on the front
of
> > the firewall.This removes 8 more or 9 counting the gasolator.
> >
> > This would leaving only 4 bulkhead fittings with flare nuts, connecting
> two
> > fuel lines that simply pass thru the cabin. One line that connects the
> right
> > tank to the fuel valve (if the value was mounted in the left wing root)
> and
> > a second line from the fuel pump to the firewall.
> >
> > 4 seems much better than 19. What have I over looked.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Mike Stephenson
> > RV-6A canopy
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
I've seen Becki's work in hundreds of RV's and can attest to her excellent
craftsmanship. However, a friend of mine, Abby Erdmann, did my full interior
with outstanding results. Abby's current backlog may be shorter than Becki's
or DJ's (but probably won't stay that way for long). You can see pictures
here: http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/interior.html
Chris Heitman
RV-9A
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "Becki Orndorff" <becki@fly-gbi.com>
So, until I can determine a way to provide better service in the seats and
interior area, I will not take any more orders. I enjoy working with
builders and regret having to come to this decision.
---
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Buffing Paint! |
--> RV-List message posted by: kevmor <kevmor99@yahoo.com>
I use 1500-2000 grit sandpaper and then a wool buffing pad with rubbing
compound and then a foam buffing pad with a machine glaze. The
sandpaper flattens it (use a block), then the rubbing compound takes
out the scratches from the sandpaper, then the machine glaze takes out
the scratches from the compound.
--- Steve Glasgow <willfly@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow"
> <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Hello Group,
>
> Does any one have any experience buffing out Imron or other paints.
> If so
> how do you go about it and what do you use?
>
> I just did some painting and have a little too much orange peal to
> suit me.
> How much can I rub out?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Glasgow
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
Very nice! This looks like one of the best I've seen. Going to have to take
a closer look when I get to the interior.
Josh Siler
RV-7A
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of C J Heitman
Subject: RE: RV-List: Seats
--> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
I've seen Becki's work in hundreds of RV's and can attest to her excellent
craftsmanship. However, a friend of mine, Abby Erdmann, did my full interior
with outstanding results. Abby's current backlog may be shorter than Becki's
or DJ's (but probably won't stay that way for long). You can see pictures
here: http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/interior.html
Chris Heitman
RV-9A
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "Becki Orndorff" <becki@fly-gbi.com>
So, until I can determine a way to provide better service in the seats and
interior area, I will not take any more orders. I enjoy working with
builders and regret having to come to this decision.
---
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: To leak or not to leak - that is the question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Mike, my EFI system requires a return line to the tank from the fuel
pressure regulator. This would have required a more complex valve to switch
both the feed and return lines. To avoid this, I always feed from and
return to the left tank. A Facit pump (what most builders use for a boost
pump) is used to transfer fuel from right tank to left when needed. I like
this arrangement because it eliminates that nervous feeling about when to
switch tanks when you are low on fuel. Just dump all the remaining fuel to
left tank and don't worry about the engine quiting while trying to use the
last quart of fuel.
Yeah, I know, it's stupid to run low on fuel, but who's never done it?
Tracy Crook
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
>
> Tracy,
>
> I assume that without a fuel valve you are drawing from both tanks all of
> the time. Do they draw equally to maintain flight balance?
>
> Mike Stephenson
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: To leak or not to leak - that is the question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Alternative engines require alternative fuel systems.
I turn off the EFI fuel pumps (backup & primary). See reply to Mike for how
the other tank is selected.
Tracy Crook
Mazda rotary powered RV-4
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
>
> No fuel selector valve??? How do you switch tanks and how do you shut off
> the fuel in case of an emergency?
>
> Godspeed,
>
> Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
> RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
> http://www.myrv7.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: To leak or not to leak - that is the question
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
> >
> > Most builders do lean to your position (get the connections out of the
> > cockpit) but I march to a different drummer. Leaks generally don't
> happen
> > all at once. They start small and get bigger. The human nose is one of
> the
> > best gasoline leak detectors known to man. I've only had one fuel leak
in
> > my flying history and I smelled it long before it became a problem.
> Bottom
> > line, I minimized the number of connections (I don't even use a fuel
tank
> > selector valve) and put as many as possible in the cockpit. Don't take
> > this personally but I hate remote actuated fuel valves. This was a
major
> > contributor to John Denvers' fatal accident.
> >
> > Just a thought .
> >
> > Tracy Crook
> > Mazda rotary powered RV-4
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson"
<mike@proclaimweb.com>
> > >
> > > I have purchase a half way finished rv-6a kit that has the fuel line
> > > installation, in the fuse, completed.
> > >
> > > The work is very good, but I count 19 flare nuts that will be riding
> > around
> > > in the floor with me. This count does not include the vent lines. It
> > > appears that it is installed as per the plans, with the fuel value in
> the
> > > center and the fuel pump inside on the left wall. Adding to the flare
> nut
> > > count is one tee for the electric primer and another joint for the
> > > transducer for the EIS fuel module.
> > >
> > > Anyway, finally to the questions.
> > >
> > > Has anyone worked to move more of the connections outside of the
cabin?
> > >
> > > I have seen photos of the fuel pump installed in the wing root
fairing.
> > This
> > > removes 2 flare nuts.
> > >
> > > I noticed in Aircraft Spruce's Cat - they offer an extension kit for
the
> > > Andair fuel value that would "perate the value remotely" *see page
155 -
> > AS
> > > Catalog. Could the valve be mounted outside the cabin wall with the
> > > connections in the wing root? This would removes 3 more.
> > >
> > > Can both the electric primer and the transducer be mounted on the
front
> of
> > > the firewall.This removes 8 more or 9 counting the gasolator.
> > >
> > > This would leaving only 4 bulkhead fittings with flare nuts,
connecting
> > two
> > > fuel lines that simply pass thru the cabin. One line that connects the
> > right
> > > tank to the fuel valve (if the value was mounted in the left wing
root)
> > and
> > > a second line from the fuel pump to the firewall.
> > >
> > > 4 seems much better than 19. What have I over looked.
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > > Mike Stephenson
> > > RV-6A canopy
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
You can buy the seats from Vans now with full scale drawings for the
upholstery. Not a bad price.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, finish kit
Chicago/Louisville
Message 15
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| Subject: | Elevator Counterweights |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
I have installed my elevators and working on tip installation. With the
counterweights installed, the left elevator is still a little tail heavy
and looks like it will need more weight. One plan is to add a 3/8 or
1/2" steel plate under the bolt heads on the outside weight, about the
same size as the lead. Anyone know if this is advisable or have another
solution?
The elevators are not yet painted, so I'm sure I need to add enough
weight to compensate for paint, probably a little more as I can drill
excess from the inside lead weight if it turns out a little too front
heavy after painting.
Suggestions?
Thanks
Mark -6A
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Counterweights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Mark,
I like your solution as long as you have sufficient bolt length, you might
have to go to a longer bolt that holds the counterweights on. The
counterweights supplied are not quite enough for the left elevator with
electric trim. I needed another couple of ounces of lead which I glassed
into the fiberglass tip as far forward as I could.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark Phillips" <ripsteel@edge.net>
Subject: RV-List: Elevator Counterweights
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> I have installed my elevators and working on tip installation. With the
> counterweights installed, the left elevator is still a little tail heavy
> and looks like it will need more weight. One plan is to add a 3/8 or
> 1/2" steel plate under the bolt heads on the outside weight, about the
> same size as the lead. Anyone know if this is advisable or have another
> solution?
>
> The elevators are not yet painted, so I'm sure I need to add enough
> weight to compensate for paint, probably a little more as I can drill
> excess from the inside lead weight if it turns out a little too front
> heavy after painting.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Thanks
> Mark -6A
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | F857D STEEL STRAPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@attcanada.ca>
The plans call for .063 4130 steel
to fabricate
some parts such as F857DPP.
No 4230 steel was included in the
kit
Are we supposed to buy this locally?
RV8 QB
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@attcanada.ca
Message 18
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| Subject: | I-Com A22 Battery Pack "Kaput" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Hi Folks!
Thought you would like to know what happened to the subject battery
pack!--
I put in on charge as it was showing "Low Battery" and left it for about 15 hours
as recommended in the IB. Next morning when I came to check it, I could barely
feel warmth as I had felt it on other occasions. Installed it-No Joy!
No voltage on the terminals! So I opened it up and did some trouble shooting:
There are two groups of ni-cad cells, qty 5 each and each group has its own thermal
cut-out switch. Each group is wired to a little PCB with a pair of transistors
and a relay on it (Didn't bother to find out what it does). When I checked
the cell-by-cell voltage, I found one of the thermal cut-out switches was open
circuit, so I bridged it! BACK IN BUSINESS!!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello just started the panel and have a question. I have 6 of vans gages and
i want to wire up the lights to my breaker, now the problem is i have 1
terminal screw on the breaker and 6 power wires coming from the lights on the
back
of the gage, what would be the best method to do this. thanks
Bill
RV-6
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Bill,
I had a similar question about how to fork the power out to the three
position light wires. I ended up using a terminal strip with jumpers...see
the 2nd and 3rd photos down here:
http://www.rvproject.com/20030710.html
In your case, if you choose to go this route, you'd need a 6-position
terminal strip.
You could also use an AMP Mate-N-Lok 6-circuit connector...6 wires on one
side, one wire with jumpers on the other.
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <BillRVSIX@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wiring ?
> --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
> Hello just started the panel and have a question. I have 6 of vans gages
and
> i want to wire up the lights to my breaker, now the problem is i have 1
> terminal screw on the breaker and 6 power wires coming from the lights on
the back
> of the gage, what would be the best method to do this. thanks
>
> Bill
> RV-6
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Step 1- Go from the breaker (you're not using fuses?!) to the first
instrument stud but add a second wire to the crimp terminal so that both
wires are solidly crimped within- take this wire to the second
instrument and repeat as necessary...
Same for the grounds.
Step 2- Subscribe to the Aeroelectric list, most graciously provided by
Matt and hosted by the illuminous Bob Nuckolls- if you are wiring your
airplane, this is a MUST! Don't just go, but RUN to:
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
and sign up!
(If you need more details, holler at me off-list!)
From the PossumWorks
Mark
BillRVSIX@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
> Hello just started the panel and have a question. I have 6 of vans gages and
> i want to wire up the lights to my breaker, now the problem is i have 1
> terminal screw on the breaker and 6 power wires coming from the lights on the
back
> of the gage, what would be the best method to do this. thanks
>
> Bill
> RV-6
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>From: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wiring ?
>Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 17:09:25 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
>Hello just started the panel and have a question. I have 6 of vans gages
>and
>i want to wire up the lights to my breaker, now the problem is i have 1
>terminal screw on the breaker and 6 power wires coming from the lights on
>the back
>of the gage, what would be the best method to do this. thanks
>
>Bill
>RV-6
>
Gang the gauge lights together, then run one wire down to the breaker.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Elevator Counterweights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stanley Blanton" <stanb@door.net>
I had this same problem with electric trim in the left elevator. I found out
that Van's has a heavier(larger) wieght for the -8 so I got one of those -
problem solved.
Stan Blanton
RV-6
I have installed my elevators and working on tip installation. With the
counterweights installed, the left elevator is still a little tail heavy and
looks like it will need more weight. One plan is to add a 3/8 or 1/2" steel
plate under the bolt heads on the outside weight, about the same size as the
lead. Anyone know if this is advisable or have another solution?
The elevators are not yet painted, so I'm sure I need to add enough weight
to compensate for paint, probably a little more as I can drill excess from
the inside lead weight if it turns out a little too front heavy after
painting.
Suggestions?
Thanks
Mark -6A
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: kevmor <kevmor99@yahoo.com>
They make jumpers just for terminal strips (sort of a strap with two
holes for the two screws) also.
--- Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Bill,
>
> I had a similar question about how to fork the power out to the three
> position light wires. I ended up using a terminal strip with
> jumpers...see
> the 2nd and 3rd photos down here:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20030710.html
>
> In your case, if you choose to go this route, you'd need a 6-position
> terminal strip.
>
> You could also use an AMP Mate-N-Lok 6-circuit connector...6 wires on
> one
> side, one wire with jumpers on the other.
>
> Hope this helps,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <BillRVSIX@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Wiring ?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
> >
> > Hello just started the panel and have a question. I have 6 of vans
> gages
> and
> > i want to wire up the lights to my breaker, now the problem is i
> have 1
> > terminal screw on the breaker and 6 power wires coming from the
> lights on
> the back
> > of the gage, what would be the best method to do this. thanks
> >
> > Bill
> > RV-6
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I have a U.S. Tool "alligator-type" pneumatic rivet squeezer for sale (Model 14A).
It was recently rebuilt at U.S. Tools, and it is in very good condition.
I never got the hang of using it, and I am going back to the manual version.
I can send pictures to anyone interested...thought I'd offer here before it goes
to Ebay. Contact me directly if interested. There are 6 or 8 squeezer bits
that go with it.
$200
Thanks,
Scott
7A (Wings in a week!)
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 26
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| Subject: | Radio and Intercom |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Green <mailindex@juno.com>
I am going to replace my intercom and radio in the Eagle and would like
opinions, past expereinces, rumors etc..........
For the radio I am considering a King KY-97A or an Icom A-200 and for the
intercom, I am considering a PS Engineering PM1200 or PM 1000, or a DRE,
244e, or an NAT AA80 or AA85.
Open to suggestions and comments
Bruce Green
Eagle N110GM
PS, I have a KX-125 for sale if anyone is intersted
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Radio and Intercom |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
I have A DRE 244e in my Piper and in our RV6.
My friend has one in his RV6.
They sound great (especially with the DRE6000 headsets.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bruce Green
> Sent: Friday, July 11, 2003 7:20 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Radio and Intercom
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Green <mailindex@juno.com>
>
> I am going to replace my intercom and radio in the Eagle and would like
> opinions, past expereinces, rumors etc..........
>
> For the radio I am considering a King KY-97A or an Icom A-200 and for the
> intercom, I am considering a PS Engineering PM1200 or PM 1000, or a DRE,
> 244e, or an NAT AA80 or AA85.
>
> Open to suggestions and comments
>
> Bruce Green
> Eagle N110GM
>
> PS, I have a KX-125 for sale if anyone is intersted
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Nice panel, where did you get the enunciator lights and throttle quadrant?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Here's a really crappy shot of the panel in question:
>
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/panel/panel-20030709.jpg
>
> I went with four of the standard 6-pack conventional gauges as backup.
> Airspeed, altimeter, VSI, turn coordinator...and a vertical card compass.
> The reason is purely redundancy...but somewhat "affordable" redundancy
using
> independent systems, for the most part.
>
> I figure if the Dynon has some internal failure, either
physical/electrical,
> or software (hey, I'm a software developer, these things happen), then
I've
> got steam gauges to complete the flight comfortably with.
>
> If my alternator goes tits up in some fashion, graceful or not, I use one
> switch to draw power via the E-bus only (essentials/endurance), feeding
> directly from the battery. If and when the battery dies, the Dynon has an
> internal backup battery (an option I opted for). In that case, the TC is
> dead but the Dynon's theoretically still going.
>
> If in that rare all-out electrical failure situation, the Dynon were to
fry
> or have a dead battery, I still have: airspeed, altimeter, VSI, compass.
>
> Anyway, that's my rationale for equipping it the way I did.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <RV8ter@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>;
> <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon: BAD ASS
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
> >
> > It looks smaller in the panel photo than I thought it actually was but
it
> > also looks like a great panel space saver and just outright cool.
> >
> > Anyway, if my intent was strictly night vfr mission capable, what flight
> > instruments would I *need* other than this unit?
> >
> > Would one trust airspeed and vertical velocity solely to this unit and
> > completely do away with dedicated gauges?
> >
> > Dan, I see you have separate airspeed and altimeter gauges. Why bother?
> > Requirement for IFR not to use this product as sole source of info or
just
> not
> > want to put that much faith into the new product?
> >
> > lucky
> >
> >
>
>
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