Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:11 AM - coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (Dan Checkoway)
2. 04:50 AM - Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
3. 07:29 AM - Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (Scott Bilinski)
4. 07:29 AM - Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (Scott Bilinski)
5. 07:36 AM - Re: Buffing Paint! (MeangreenRV4@aol.com)
6. 08:09 AM - Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
7. 08:47 AM - Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
8. 09:33 AM - Low power on RV7 mystery solved!!!!!! (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
9. 09:53 AM - Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (Jody Edwards)
10. 11:11 AM - Snap Bushing location on 7 or 7A (Dana Overall)
11. 11:18 AM - Snap Bushing for 7 (Dana Overall)
12. 11:55 AM - Re: Radios (JDaniel343@aol.com)
13. 12:33 PM - Strobe lens retainer (Mark Phillips)
14. 02:15 PM - Re: Static tubing (J. R. Dial)
15. 03:06 PM - Re: Static tubing (Scott Bilinski)
16. 03:26 PM - "All Shook Up" ... The Solution(s) !!! (James E. Clark)
17. 03:49 PM - Re: Static tubing (Terry Watson)
18. 04:17 PM - DITY move for airplane project (Jordan Grant)
19. 05:25 PM - Re: DITY move for airplane project (Paul Besing)
20. 05:58 PM - Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
21. 06:00 PM - Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (Tracy Crook)
22. 06:38 PM - Pitot line end? (Bobby Hester)
23. 06:58 PM - Re: Radios (lucky macy)
24. 07:17 PM - Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (James E. Clark)
25. 07:27 PM - RV-6 for sale (Val & Bill Lunger)
26. 07:34 PM - Re: Radios (Don Mack)
27. 07:41 PM - gascolators (William Davis)
28. 08:49 PM - Re: gascolators (Chris W)
29. 09:43 PM - Dynon (Mark Nielsen)
30. 10:44 PM - Re: DITY move for airplane project (Shemp)
Message 1
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| Subject: | coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm wondering if anybody has installed a LightSpeed Plasma II system on an
IO-360-A1B6 with Airflow Performance injection? The reason I'm asking is
because that's my configuration and I'm looking for the ideal location to
mount the LSE coils (on the case, on the mount, etc.). My case is a bit
crowded with the spider and its bracket, the hoist loops, etc. I figure
I'll end up fabricating a simple bracket to mount the coils between two case
bolts instead of on one. But any other suggestions would be much
appreciated.
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_coils.jpg
Also, would I be nuts to remove the hoist loops (steel U-shaped thingamabobs
used to hoist the engine) from the case? I figure if there was ever some
dire situation on the road where I needed to pull the engine I would be
kicking myself if the loops were back home at the hangar... But getting rid
of those loops (I have 2 on my AeroSport engine) would make more space for
stuff...like the coils.
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_hoist_hook.jpg
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed |
tests=BAYES_01,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Dan I installed my first lightspeed ignition coils on the case on the top
side.
If you want it anywhere else, you hade better talk to Klaaus before
ordering. The wire lengths are too short as it is to put it anywhere else.
My second ignition coils are on the engine mount, top, just behind the
baffle.
Pictures here for my first install to show you where mine are.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Go to flying, then electronic ignition. You will see exactly where I put my
first set of coils.
You will have to remove the hoist loops for this install.
Mike Stewart
Flying 1 week on my second lightspeed ignition.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan@rvproject.com]
Subject: RV-List: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm wondering if anybody has installed a LightSpeed Plasma II system on an
IO-360-A1B6 with Airflow Performance injection? The reason I'm asking is
because that's my configuration and I'm looking for the ideal location to
mount the LSE coils (on the case, on the mount, etc.). My case is a bit
crowded with the spider and its bracket, the hoist loops, etc. I figure
I'll end up fabricating a simple bracket to mount the coils between two case
bolts instead of on one. But any other suggestions would be much
appreciated.
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_coils.jpg
Also, would I be nuts to remove the hoist loops (steel U-shaped thingamabobs
used to hoist the engine) from the case? I figure if there was ever some
dire situation on the road where I needed to pull the engine I would be
kicking myself if the loops were back home at the hangar... But getting rid
of those loops (I have 2 on my AeroSport engine) would make more space for
stuff...like the coils.
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_hoist_hook.jpg
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I mounted one set of coils on the center line of the case between the
spider and the read baffle wall. I did have to space the coils here and
there with washers to position it correctly. Now for the second set of
coils. This mounting location may be problem. I mounted the coils in front
of the sump between the starter and alt about 4 inches above the exhaust. I
have fabricated a very thick heat sheild with two layers of .125 ceramic
sheet insulator. I will also wrap the exhaust locally and may or may not
add a blast tube.
At 04:09 AM 7/14/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm wondering if anybody has installed a LightSpeed Plasma II system on an
>IO-360-A1B6 with Airflow Performance injection? The reason I'm asking is
>because that's my configuration and I'm looking for the ideal location to
>mount the LSE coils (on the case, on the mount, etc.). My case is a bit
>crowded with the spider and its bracket, the hoist loops, etc. I figure
>I'll end up fabricating a simple bracket to mount the coils between two case
>bolts instead of on one. But any other suggestions would be much
>appreciated.
>
>http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_coils.jpg
>
>Also, would I be nuts to remove the hoist loops (steel U-shaped thingamabobs
>used to hoist the engine) from the case? I figure if there was ever some
>dire situation on the road where I needed to pull the engine I would be
>kicking myself if the loops were back home at the hangar... But getting rid
>of those loops (I have 2 on my AeroSport engine) would make more space for
>stuff...like the coils.
>
>http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_hoist_hook.jpg
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Oh yea I also removed the engine hoist things.
At 04:09 AM 7/14/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm wondering if anybody has installed a LightSpeed Plasma II system on an
>IO-360-A1B6 with Airflow Performance injection? The reason I'm asking is
>because that's my configuration and I'm looking for the ideal location to
>mount the LSE coils (on the case, on the mount, etc.). My case is a bit
>crowded with the spider and its bracket, the hoist loops, etc. I figure
>I'll end up fabricating a simple bracket to mount the coils between two case
>bolts instead of on one. But any other suggestions would be much
>appreciated.
>
>http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_coils.jpg
>
>Also, would I be nuts to remove the hoist loops (steel U-shaped thingamabobs
>used to hoist the engine) from the case? I figure if there was ever some
>dire situation on the road where I needed to pull the engine I would be
>kicking myself if the loops were back home at the hangar... But getting rid
>of those loops (I have 2 on my AeroSport engine) would make more space for
>stuff...like the coils.
>
>http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_hoist_hook.jpg
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Buffing Paint! |
--> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com
In a message dated 7/11/2003 6:02:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
willfly@carolina.rr.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Hello Group,
>
> Does any one have any experience buffing out Imron or other paints. If so
> how do you go about it and what do you use?
>
> I just did some painting and have a little too much orange peal to suit me.
> How much can I rub out?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve Glasgow
>
You start with 1000 grit and work up to 2000 grit wet & dry sand paper using
a spray bottle. As far as the polishing goes use a wool pad at medium speed
and a non abrasive polish. But the best advice is to hook up with somebody that
does this every day like a detail person that specializes in hot rods. This is
the best way, and maybe the best money you will spend on your project, there
is a very fine line to a polish and a burn through.
Good luck
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV4
Message 6
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| Subject: | Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source |
tests=AWL,BAYES_01,HTML_70_80,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST
version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Anyone have a source for this?
I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem.
No joy in the archives.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
<style>
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<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Anyone have a source for this?
<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling
problem.
<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>No joy in the archives.
<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>
<span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Arial'>Mike Stewart
<span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>Do not archive
<span style='font-size:
12.0pt'>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed |
07/14/2003 10:15:53 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Most people leave the loop.
However it is your airplane,
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Low power on RV7 mystery solved!!!!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
Thanks for everyones help with ideas on the low power mystery on my friends
RV7A powered by a new Superior I0360. The crank shaft gear was off by one
tooth were it meshes with the acessory drive which also leads to the camshaft
drive. The engine runs great now.
Wayne Petrus
RV8a
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jody Edwards <jodyedwards@juno.com>
Hello Mike, Attended your formation seminar at LAL in January. Great
presentation!As for your fuel boiling problem I've had similar problems
with my 160 hp RV-4 while burning 92 octane auto fuel.With firewall
mounted gascolator and blast tube fed heat shield I was still getting
Fluctuating fuel pressure after landing and taxi or during quick
turns,landings to pick up pax and immediate takeoff. I've solved this
problem by throwing the damned gascolator overboard and installing two
NAPA 3003 inline fuel filters upstream of the fuel selector.The engine
mounted mechanical fuel pump is also another problem area.In the 70's
Piper addressed this problem by adding a 1 1/2" blast tube fed aluminum
shrould around the top and three sides of the pump.Along with
firesleeving all fuel line FWF and installing SS heat shield where
exhaust pipes route close to fuel lines I've had rock steady fuel
pressure for the the last 250 + Hrs. under all conditions while burning
the cheapest 92 octane auto fuel I can find! P.S. Going to OSH?
Looking for someone to pal up with to join flight north. I live in Ft.
Lauderdale, FL Hope this helps.
I
On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 11:08:45 -0400
tests=AWL,BAYES_01,HTML_70_80,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST version=2.53
mstewart@qa.butler.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Anyone have a source for this?
>
> I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem.
>
> No joy in the archives.
>
>
> Mike Stewart
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> <style>
> <!--
> /* Style Definitions */
> p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
> {margin:0in;
> margin-bottom:.0001pt;
> font-size:12.0pt;
> font-family:"Times New Roman";}
> a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
> {color:blue;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
> {color:purple;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> span.EmailStyle17
> {font-family:Arial;
> color:windowtext;}
> @page Section1
> {size:8.5in 11.0in;
> margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}
> div.Section1
> {page:Section1;}
> -->
> </style>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Anyone have a source for this?
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel
> boiling
> problem.
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>No joy in the archives.
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Mike Stewart
>
>
> <span style='font-size:
> 12.0pt'>Do not archive
>
>
> <span style='font-size:
> 12.0pt'>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Snap Bushing location on 7 or 7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
After checking with other builders and Van's, here is the picture for you 7
builders. I don't know if this is going to apply to 8s & 9s. The plans
call for two snap bushings holes to be drilled out in the lower center of
your center spar sections. I wanted at least one more bushing in the web.
Van's says one or two are OK as long as you don't nick the bar. My thoughts
were to simply add two bushings above the existing two. Dan pointed out in
a private email that the stock fuel valve may be an issue down the road. As
you can see in this picture, it would have been an issue. The stock two
hole are low on the web but are obsured by the valve. If you are going to
Unibit holes for snap bushings, move outside of this center section, it
would very tight in there.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/q8.jpg
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Snap Bushing for 7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
First of all , let's try Obscured instead of obsured!!
One more thing for you 7 guys. If you are building an A, one of the lower
snap bushings on each side of this housing will be taken up by a brake line
in addition to the fuel pickup line from each tank. Place any additional
snap bushings high enough on the web to clear the fuel line for 7s, fuel and
brake lines for 7A.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
I'll concure with the UPS SL-40 radio. This radio has great features such as
being able to monitor 1 frequency while tuned into another. Great for
listening to ATIS.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Strobe lens retainer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
I purchased the Aeroflash taillight/strobe combination for the rudder
bottom of my -6A. Problem is, the fixture and retaining ring is
completely round instead of narrowed in the center like the comparable
Whelen A500A unit. I have trimmed the fixture to match the rudder
bottom, but will need to purchase the Whelen retainer ($18!!!!!)
But I need to make sure it will fit- anyone done this? Or can someone
using the Whelen unit measure the diameter of their lens so I can check
it against the Aeroflash lens for fit before I send Spruce some MORE
$$$$$! If this is totally cunfuzing, you can see these things here-
Whelen:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/whelentaillights.php
Aeroflash: http://aeroflash.com/plane.html#tailposition (almost at the
bottom of the page)
Thanks for any assistance!
Mark
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I ordered the static ports from Aircraft Spruce and use push on
tubing that they use in building pneumatic control systems. Ports look
better but I am sure they all work the same.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BillRVSIX@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Static tubing
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
I have a question on the vans static kit. I bout new static ports to
replace
the pop rivet port, it comes with a barbed nipple for 1/4 in tubing vans
use
1/8 tubing to connect the to ports together dose it matter what size
tubing is
used.Thanks
Bill
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I used the same fittings, and the "old timers" at the airport thought they
were the slickest things they have ever seen. Also make for a much cleaner
installation due to the smaller size.
At 04:13 PM 7/14/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> I ordered the static ports from Aircraft Spruce and use push on
>tubing that they use in building pneumatic control systems. Ports look
>better but I am sure they all work the same.
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>BillRVSIX@aol.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Static tubing
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
>
>I have a question on the vans static kit. I bout new static ports to
>replace
>the pop rivet port, it comes with a barbed nipple for 1/4 in tubing vans
>use
>1/8 tubing to connect the to ports together dose it matter what size
>tubing is
>used.Thanks
>
>Bill
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 16
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| Subject: | "All Shook Up" ... The Solution(s) !!! <?> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
In an earlier email to the list I mentioned a problem we were having with
vibrations.
For all the comments/suggestions both "on-list" and "off-list" ... (use
Elvis voice here) ... Thank you very much!
Summary: IT FEELS MUCH BETTER NOW!!
I am not sure if there has been a single solution, although I suspect the
replacement of the engine mounts did the most. There were several things
done and each had its effect.
For example:
1. Fixing the timing (off just a few degrees) made things better but did not
fix the root problem.
2. The earlier dynamic balancing made things better but did not fix the root
problem.
3. Replacing the electronic ignition *seemed* to make things better (but
that might just have been me feeling better because Jeff checked the old one
out and it was just fine)
4. Getting the prop STATICALLY balanced made things better but did not fix
the root problem.
5. Shimming up the sagging engine vibration mounts actually made the
vibration MORE obvious.
6. Performing Lycoming Service Bulletin #1425(??) to check valves found
silky smooth valves.
7. Replacing the carb and getting some adjustment made the engine smooth out
from initial start.
8. Putting in the new (from Van's) conical isolation mounts ($300.00 vs
$30.00) probably made the biggest difference in the FEEL I get of the
vibration.
9. Final dynamic balance of the whole lot has probably made it just a bit
better as well.
I know some of you are saying if all these things made it a "little better"
then it must have been REALLY bad and is now REALLY great. Well, as you are
making these changes, I think that one often *thinks* it got better or
*wants* it to have gotten better. I do think I could detect *some*
improvement in most of the activities. It was bad and it is now good.
The plane has been flown about 200 miles with the above changes minus the
dynamic balancing. It has been flown about 6 miles with the final dynamic
balance (to .06 ips, I think). I will get a better feel over the next week
or so and report if it is different.
Moral of the saga ... if you have "vibes" and you have CONICAL mounts, go
back and check to see if they happen to be the "cheaper" versions. If they
are, replace them first. It will cost $300+ and a few hours but you may
solve 80% of the problem right away.
And yes there was one entry in the archives where someone went through the
same basic routine and ended up in the same basic place, but then there were
others who ended up with different solutions.
Again, thanks to all and HOPEFULLY someone else will benefit from this.
James
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Check the archives. There seems to be a lot of question about whether they
all work the same.
Terry
At 04:13 PM 7/14/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> I ordered the static ports from Aircraft Spruce and use push on
>tubing that they use in building pneumatic control systems. Ports look
>better but I am sure they all work the same.
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 18
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| Subject: | DITY move for airplane project |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
To all the military airplane builders out there:
Has anyone found a way around the ridiculous 'No Airplane Parts'
rule for military DITY moves? I mean, other than just claiming that its
a big aluminum canoe in there? I just came from my briefing today where
they told us: "Sure, you can move your
boat/motorcylce/jetski/ATV/hang-glider, but you can't move the airplane
project that's in your garage". I'm a little irritated with the
ridiculous bureaucracy that is our wonderful government.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 FWF
Of course, Do Not Archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: DITY move for airplane project |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Crate it up, and claim it's building materials, which it is. Just be sure
to include tools in there as well, so you can say "building materials and
tools" The only problem I see would be the value. Military movers really
suck. On our last PCS we had a crib, a bed, and a piece of funiture all
damaged. So, be careful how you do it. At least crate it really well, so
you can be assured they don't screw it up, because if they do, you will
likely not get paid.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: DITY move for airplane project
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
>
> To all the military airplane builders out there:
> Has anyone found a way around the ridiculous 'No Airplane Parts'
> rule for military DITY moves? I mean, other than just claiming that its
> a big aluminum canoe in there? I just came from my briefing today where
> they told us: "Sure, you can move your
> boat/motorcylce/jetski/ATV/hang-glider, but you can't move the airplane
> project that's in your garage". I'm a little irritated with the
> ridiculous bureaucracy that is our wonderful government.
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 FWF
>
> Of course, Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source |
tests=AWL,BAYES_01,HTML_10_20,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,
QUOTED_EMAIL_TEXT,USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Hi Jody,
Well I only get it at altitudes above 11k'. My pilot cabin heat valve dumps
right into the gascolator when not heating the cabin. I bit the bullet and
built a shroud today for the gascolator. If this does not work, and I think
it will, I will try the fuel pump next. I have a scat tube blowing on the
pump, but no shroud for it.
Im off to Austin Tx tomorrow for business and will be cruisin with a 30kt
tail wind at 16k', assuming the weather hold on for me. Looking forward to
that nice change of pace headin west.
Im heading to osh the friday before and going to Iowa for the formation
clinic. Taking what looks to be a four ship out of Atlanta that Friday
morning. Lookin like a lot of RV's in Iowa. Fun Fun.
Mike
do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jody Edwards
Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source
--> RV-List message posted by: Jody Edwards <jodyedwards@juno.com>
Hello Mike, Attended your formation seminar at LAL in January. Great
presentation!As for your fuel boiling problem I've had similar problems
with my 160 hp RV-4 while burning 92 octane auto fuel.With firewall
mounted gascolator and blast tube fed heat shield I was still getting
Fluctuating fuel pressure after landing and taxi or during quick
turns,landings to pick up pax and immediate takeoff. I've solved this
problem by throwing the damned gascolator overboard and installing two
NAPA 3003 inline fuel filters upstream of the fuel selector.The engine
mounted mechanical fuel pump is also another problem area.In the 70's
Piper addressed this problem by adding a 1 1/2" blast tube fed aluminum
shrould around the top and three sides of the pump.Along with
firesleeving all fuel line FWF and installing SS heat shield where
exhaust pipes route close to fuel lines I've had rock steady fuel
pressure for the the last 250 + Hrs. under all conditions while burning
the cheapest 92 octane auto fuel I can find! P.S. Going to OSH?
Looking for someone to pal up with to join flight north. I live in Ft.
Lauderdale, FL Hope this helps.
I
On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 11:08:45 -0400
tests=AWL,BAYES_01,HTML_70_80,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST
version=2.53
mstewart@qa.butler.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Anyone have a source for this?
>
> I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem.
>
> No joy in the archives.
>
>
> Mike Stewart
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> <style>
> <!--
> /* Style Definitions */
> p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
> {margin:0in;
> margin-bottom:.0001pt;
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> a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
> {color:blue;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
> {color:purple;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> span.EmailStyle17
> {font-family:Arial;
> color:windowtext;}
> @page Section1
> {size:8.5in 11.0in;
> margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}
> div.Section1
> {page:Section1;}
> -->
> </style>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Anyone have a source for this?
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel
> boiling
> problem.
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>No joy in the archives.
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Mike Stewart
>
>
> <span style='font-size:
> 12.0pt'>Do not archive
>
>
> <span style='font-size:
> 12.0pt'>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
My appologies in advance to sacred cow lovers everywhere and excuse the
diversion from the original question. I'm curious about the logic behind
this.
The typical aircraft gascolator installation has never made any sense to me.
Here are the ingredients we are working with. A mechanical fuel pump with
high negative pressure pulses on the inlet side, mounted on a hot aircooled
engine. In the case of the RV, it is pulling fuel up hill from the tanks
with the additional handicap of in-line restriction of a boost pump (when
not powered on). Then to add insult to injury, the fuel is pre-heated by
going through a gascolator mounted in the duct for air that has been heated
by an air cooled engine and radiated upon by close proximity to exhaust
pipes at 1400 degrees. This is a fuel system begging for vapor lock to
occur. Or am I missing something?
I'm sure it will send shudders up the spines of veteran builders but my
gascolator in inside the cockpit (plumbed to an external drain fitting)
along with my two EFI fuel pumps. Never had a hint of vapor lock even on
auto fuel.
Tracy Crook
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Anyone have a source for this?
>
> I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem.
>
> No joy in the archives.
>
>
> Mike Stewart
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Ready to instatll the pitot line in the wing. How should I leave the
inboard end?
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/features/features.html
how does it stack up against this beauty? This is what I'm considering as a
space saver and pretty functional as the specs show
>From: JDaniel343@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Radios
>Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 14:54:16 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
>
>I'll concure with the UPS SL-40 radio. This radio has great features such
>as
>being able to monitor 1 frequency while tuned into another. Great for
>listening to ATIS.
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Mike,
I know this is not answering the question you asked but ...
The Columbia-based "Palmetto Wing" [:-)] RVs have the gascolators in each
wing root. Don't know if your tanks are easily removed but if they are then
that might be a ***REMOTE*** consideration.
I happen to know that one has in fact worked "up real high" with this config
and no problems.
Just curious ... when the problem occurs, is your boost pump on??? THe
reason I ask is because as I was happily strolling along at the controls of
a friends Pressurize Baron at "Flight Level xyz", I notice the fuel pressure
starting to DROP(!!). I mentioned this to the owner/left-seater and he
casually said "oh, yeah that happens at altitude" and turned on the boost
pump. Says he always runs them up high.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
> mstewart@qa.butler.com
> Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 11:09 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Anyone have a source for this?
>
> I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem.
>
> No joy in the archives.
>
>
> Mike Stewart
>
> Do not archive
>
>
> <style>
> <!--
> /* Style Definitions */
> p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
> {margin:0in;
> margin-bottom:.0001pt;
> font-size:12.0pt;
> font-family:"Times New Roman";}
> a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
> {color:blue;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
> {color:purple;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> span.EmailStyle17
> {font-family:Arial;
> color:windowtext;}
> @page Section1
> {size:8.5in 11.0in;
> margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}
> div.Section1
> {page:Section1;}
> -->
> </style>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Anyone have a source for this?
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling
> problem.
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>No joy in the archives.
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>
>
>
> <span style='font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Arial'>Mike Stewart
>
>
> <span style='font-size:
> 12.0pt'>Do not archive
>
>
> <span style='font-size:
> 12.0pt'>
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Val & Bill Lunger" <bluesky@naspa.net>
Complete Kit including the finish kit, sliding canopy, O-360 Engine mount,
constant speed cowl spinner kit, dual landing lights, Philogiston built
spar. Empennage completed. One wing completed. One wing 75% complete.
Ailerons, flaps, elevators, rudder completed. Fuselage not started yet.
Included fuselage jig and wing jig and some extras. Price$13,500.00.
Located 75 miles south of Oshkosh.
Please contact Bill off list at 414-425-2966 or at bluesky@naspa.net.
Do not Archive
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I am planning on the Xcom too. Only problem is you still can't buy them in
the US. They are going to have a booth at OSH so hopefully they will have
some word. Last I heard, they are still working on FCC approval.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
> http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/features/features.html
>
> how does it stack up against this beauty? This is what I'm considering as
a
> space saver and pretty functional as the specs show
>
do not archive
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
I agree with Tracy on these critters with one exception, they should be eliminated
entirely.
They are a source of fuel leaks and vapor lock and are an anachronism whose time
has past. Replace it with a good quality in line fuel filter such as the unit
from Airflow Performance. Gascolators cannot be the low point in the fuel system
on an RV , the low point is the tank drains so why put up with it? 1400+hrs.of
RV flying with out gascolators proves that it works. Had one briefly on
my first RV-4 but soon removed it after a vapor lock experience and had no problems
since on that airplane. If you simply HAVE to have this sacred cow, mount
it outside the fuselage in the wing root area.
Bill Davis
RV-8 Tiger-Kat
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
William Davis wrote:
> . . . Gascolators cannot be the low point in the fuel system on an RV . . .
I don't want to start a big primer type controversy but, it is my understanding
that the gascolator does NOT need to be at the low point in the fuel system to
do it's job. As I understand it, it will remove water from the fuel as it passes
through the gascolator and you then drain the water that it collected the
last time the engine was running not the water that drained down there while
the plane was sitting in the hangar.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Nielsen" <mark.nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
>
> IMHO the only way you will be able to "yank and bank" The Dynon into
submission
> is when one wing goes all the way south and the other north. Only then
will you
> exceed the velocities to confuse it. A few seconds after the big dust
cloud it
> will catch up to show just how bad the attitude really is. :>)
>
My experience shows that such extreme measures are not required...
My Dynon EFIS will follow me through a one turn spin, but it "grays out"
with "attitude indeterminate" in a 1-1/4 turn spin.
To define the spins a little better... In the one turn spins, rotation
stopped almost immediately upon application of opposite rudder (at one
turn). In the 1-1/4 turn spins, opposite rudder was applied at the
1-1/4 point, and the rotation stopped at about the 1-3/4 point.
After recovering from the 1-1/4 spin and leveling out, I immediately
rolled into and out of alternating 30-40 degree banks. The grayed-out
display still seemed to follow the airplane through the banks, although
it did appear to wallow slightly. The display recovered fully in about
10 seconds. From this experience (6 or 7 spins), it would appear that
the unit still had a pretty good idea of which way was up, even when
grayed out.
Please don't interpret these comments as negative. So far, I am very
pleased with the Dynon EFIS. My biggest wish would be for the option to
increase the display font size a bit (and to make it bold). After
looking at the Dynon team photo, however, I don't think that they will
understand why -- at least not until they put another 25-30 years of
mileage on their eyeballs. :)
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 850 hrs.
Green Bay, WI
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: DITY move for airplane project |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Buy the biggest boat you can pull and put all the airplane parts in it.
You never know, it may work.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: DITY move for airplane project
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
>
> To all the military airplane builders out there:
> Has anyone found a way around the ridiculous 'No Airplane Parts'
> rule for military DITY moves? I mean, other than just claiming that its
> a big aluminum canoe in there? I just came from my briefing today where
> they told us: "Sure, you can move your
> boat/motorcylce/jetski/ATV/hang-glider, but you can't move the airplane
> project that's in your garage". I'm a little irritated with the
> ridiculous bureaucracy that is our wonderful government.
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 FWF
>
> Of course, Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
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