---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 07/14/03: 30 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:11 AM - coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (Dan Checkoway) 2. 04:50 AM - Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (mstewart@qa.butler.com) 3. 07:29 AM - Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (Scott Bilinski) 4. 07:29 AM - Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (Scott Bilinski) 5. 07:36 AM - Re: Buffing Paint! (MeangreenRV4@aol.com) 6. 08:09 AM - Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (mstewart@qa.butler.com) 7. 08:47 AM - Re: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com) 8. 09:33 AM - Low power on RV7 mystery solved!!!!!! (Dwpetrus@aol.com) 9. 09:53 AM - Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (Jody Edwards) 10. 11:11 AM - Snap Bushing location on 7 or 7A (Dana Overall) 11. 11:18 AM - Snap Bushing for 7 (Dana Overall) 12. 11:55 AM - Re: Radios (JDaniel343@aol.com) 13. 12:33 PM - Strobe lens retainer (Mark Phillips) 14. 02:15 PM - Re: Static tubing (J. R. Dial) 15. 03:06 PM - Re: Static tubing (Scott Bilinski) 16. 03:26 PM - "All Shook Up" ... The Solution(s) !!! (James E. Clark) 17. 03:49 PM - Re: Static tubing (Terry Watson) 18. 04:17 PM - DITY move for airplane project (Jordan Grant) 19. 05:25 PM - Re: DITY move for airplane project (Paul Besing) 20. 05:58 PM - Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (mstewart@qa.butler.com) 21. 06:00 PM - Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (Tracy Crook) 22. 06:38 PM - Pitot line end? (Bobby Hester) 23. 06:58 PM - Re: Radios (lucky macy) 24. 07:17 PM - Re: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source (James E. Clark) 25. 07:27 PM - RV-6 for sale (Val & Bill Lunger) 26. 07:34 PM - Re: Radios (Don Mack) 27. 07:41 PM - gascolators (William Davis) 28. 08:49 PM - Re: gascolators (Chris W) 29. 09:43 PM - Dynon (Mark Nielsen) 30. 10:44 PM - Re: DITY move for airplane project (Shemp) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:11:34 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I'm wondering if anybody has installed a LightSpeed Plasma II system on an IO-360-A1B6 with Airflow Performance injection? The reason I'm asking is because that's my configuration and I'm looking for the ideal location to mount the LSE coils (on the case, on the mount, etc.). My case is a bit crowded with the spider and its bracket, the hoist loops, etc. I figure I'll end up fabricating a simple bracket to mount the coils between two case bolts instead of on one. But any other suggestions would be much appreciated. http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_coils.jpg Also, would I be nuts to remove the hoist loops (steel U-shaped thingamabobs used to hoist the engine) from the case? I figure if there was ever some dire situation on the road where I needed to pull the engine I would be kicking myself if the loops were back home at the hangar... But getting rid of those loops (I have 2 on my AeroSport engine) would make more space for stuff...like the coils. http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_hoist_hook.jpg Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:50:57 AM PST US From: mstewart@qa.butler.com Subject: RE: RV-List: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed tests=BAYES_01,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=ham version=2.53 --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com Dan I installed my first lightspeed ignition coils on the case on the top side. If you want it anywhere else, you hade better talk to Klaaus before ordering. The wire lengths are too short as it is to put it anywhere else. My second ignition coils are on the engine mount, top, just behind the baffle. Pictures here for my first install to show you where mine are. http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm Go to flying, then electronic ignition. You will see exactly where I put my first set of coils. You will have to remove the hoist loops for this install. Mike Stewart Flying 1 week on my second lightspeed ignition. -----Original Message----- From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan@rvproject.com] Subject: RV-List: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I'm wondering if anybody has installed a LightSpeed Plasma II system on an IO-360-A1B6 with Airflow Performance injection? The reason I'm asking is because that's my configuration and I'm looking for the ideal location to mount the LSE coils (on the case, on the mount, etc.). My case is a bit crowded with the spider and its bracket, the hoist loops, etc. I figure I'll end up fabricating a simple bracket to mount the coils between two case bolts instead of on one. But any other suggestions would be much appreciated. http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_coils.jpg Also, would I be nuts to remove the hoist loops (steel U-shaped thingamabobs used to hoist the engine) from the case? I figure if there was ever some dire situation on the road where I needed to pull the engine I would be kicking myself if the loops were back home at the hangar... But getting rid of those loops (I have 2 on my AeroSport engine) would make more space for stuff...like the coils. http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_hoist_hook.jpg Thanks in advance, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:29:38 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I mounted one set of coils on the center line of the case between the spider and the read baffle wall. I did have to space the coils here and there with washers to position it correctly. Now for the second set of coils. This mounting location may be problem. I mounted the coils in front of the sump between the starter and alt about 4 inches above the exhaust. I have fabricated a very thick heat sheild with two layers of .125 ceramic sheet insulator. I will also wrap the exhaust locally and may or may not add a blast tube. At 04:09 AM 7/14/03 -0700, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >I'm wondering if anybody has installed a LightSpeed Plasma II system on an >IO-360-A1B6 with Airflow Performance injection? The reason I'm asking is >because that's my configuration and I'm looking for the ideal location to >mount the LSE coils (on the case, on the mount, etc.). My case is a bit >crowded with the spider and its bracket, the hoist loops, etc. I figure >I'll end up fabricating a simple bracket to mount the coils between two case >bolts instead of on one. But any other suggestions would be much >appreciated. > >http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_coils.jpg > >Also, would I be nuts to remove the hoist loops (steel U-shaped thingamabobs >used to hoist the engine) from the case? I figure if there was ever some >dire situation on the road where I needed to pull the engine I would be >kicking myself if the loops were back home at the hangar... But getting rid >of those loops (I have 2 on my AeroSport engine) would make more space for >stuff...like the coils. > >http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_hoist_hook.jpg > >Thanks in advance, >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:29:55 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Oh yea I also removed the engine hoist things. At 04:09 AM 7/14/03 -0700, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >I'm wondering if anybody has installed a LightSpeed Plasma II system on an >IO-360-A1B6 with Airflow Performance injection? The reason I'm asking is >because that's my configuration and I'm looking for the ideal location to >mount the LSE coils (on the case, on the mount, etc.). My case is a bit >crowded with the spider and its bracket, the hoist loops, etc. I figure >I'll end up fabricating a simple bracket to mount the coils between two case >bolts instead of on one. But any other suggestions would be much >appreciated. > >http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_coils.jpg > >Also, would I be nuts to remove the hoist loops (steel U-shaped thingamabobs >used to hoist the engine) from the case? I figure if there was ever some >dire situation on the road where I needed to pull the engine I would be >kicking myself if the loops were back home at the hangar... But getting rid >of those loops (I have 2 on my AeroSport engine) would make more space for >stuff...like the coils. > >http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030713_hoist_hook.jpg > >Thanks in advance, >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:36:53 AM PST US From: MeangreenRV4@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Buffing Paint! --> RV-List message posted by: MeangreenRV4@aol.com In a message dated 7/11/2003 6:02:23 AM Pacific Daylight Time, willfly@carolina.rr.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" > > Hello Group, > > Does any one have any experience buffing out Imron or other paints. If so > how do you go about it and what do you use? > > I just did some painting and have a little too much orange peal to suit me. > How much can I rub out? > > > Thanks, > > Steve Glasgow > You start with 1000 grit and work up to 2000 grit wet & dry sand paper using a spray bottle. As far as the polishing goes use a wool pad at medium speed and a non abrasive polish. But the best advice is to hook up with somebody that does this every day like a detail person that specializes in hot rods. This is the best way, and maybe the best money you will spend on your project, there is a very fine line to a polish and a burn through. Good luck Tim Barnes Meangreen RV4 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:09:17 AM PST US From: mstewart@qa.butler.com Subject: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source tests=AWL,BAYES_01,HTML_70_80,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST version=2.53 --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com Anyone have a source for this? I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem. No joy in the archives. Mike Stewart Do not archive Anyone have a source for this? I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem. No joy in the archives. Mike Stewart Do not archive ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:47:17 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: coil location for IO-360-A1B6 w/AFP and LightSpeed From: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com 07/14/2003 10:15:53 AM --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com Most people leave the loop. However it is your airplane, Glenn Williams do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:33:59 AM PST US From: Dwpetrus@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Low power on RV7 mystery solved!!!!!! --> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com Thanks for everyones help with ideas on the low power mystery on my friends RV7A powered by a new Superior I0360. The crank shaft gear was off by one tooth were it meshes with the acessory drive which also leads to the camshaft drive. The engine runs great now. Wayne Petrus RV8a ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:53:30 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source From: Jody Edwards --> RV-List message posted by: Jody Edwards Hello Mike, Attended your formation seminar at LAL in January. Great presentation!As for your fuel boiling problem I've had similar problems with my 160 hp RV-4 while burning 92 octane auto fuel.With firewall mounted gascolator and blast tube fed heat shield I was still getting Fluctuating fuel pressure after landing and taxi or during quick turns,landings to pick up pax and immediate takeoff. I've solved this problem by throwing the damned gascolator overboard and installing two NAPA 3003 inline fuel filters upstream of the fuel selector.The engine mounted mechanical fuel pump is also another problem area.In the 70's Piper addressed this problem by adding a 1 1/2" blast tube fed aluminum shrould around the top and three sides of the pump.Along with firesleeving all fuel line FWF and installing SS heat shield where exhaust pipes route close to fuel lines I've had rock steady fuel pressure for the the last 250 + Hrs. under all conditions while burning the cheapest 92 octane auto fuel I can find! P.S. Going to OSH? Looking for someone to pal up with to join flight north. I live in Ft. Lauderdale, FL Hope this helps. I On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 11:08:45 -0400 tests=AWL,BAYES_01,HTML_70_80,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST version=2.53 mstewart@qa.butler.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com > > Anyone have a source for this? > > I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem. > > No joy in the archives. > > > Mike Stewart > > Do not archive > > > > > > Anyone have a source for this? > > > I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel > boiling > problem. > > > No joy in the archives. > > > > > > Mike Stewart > > > Do not archive > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:11:07 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RV-List: Snap Bushing location on 7 or 7A --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" After checking with other builders and Van's, here is the picture for you 7 builders. I don't know if this is going to apply to 8s & 9s. The plans call for two snap bushings holes to be drilled out in the lower center of your center spar sections. I wanted at least one more bushing in the web. Van's says one or two are OK as long as you don't nick the bar. My thoughts were to simply add two bushings above the existing two. Dan pointed out in a private email that the stock fuel valve may be an issue down the road. As you can see in this picture, it would have been an issue. The stock two hole are low on the web but are obsured by the valve. If you are going to Unibit holes for snap bushings, move outside of this center section, it would very tight in there. http://rvflying.tripod.com/q8.jpg Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider/fuselage Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:18:06 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: RV-List: Snap Bushing for 7 --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" First of all , let's try Obscured instead of obsured!! One more thing for you 7 guys. If you are building an A, one of the lower snap bushings on each side of this housing will be taken up by a brake line in addition to the fuel pickup line from each tank. Place any additional snap bushings high enough on the web to clear the fuel line for 7s, fuel and brake lines for 7A. Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider/fuselage Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:55:17 AM PST US From: JDaniel343@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Radios --> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com I'll concure with the UPS SL-40 radio. This radio has great features such as being able to monitor 1 frequency while tuned into another. Great for listening to ATIS. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:33:19 PM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: RV-List: Strobe lens retainer --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips I purchased the Aeroflash taillight/strobe combination for the rudder bottom of my -6A. Problem is, the fixture and retaining ring is completely round instead of narrowed in the center like the comparable Whelen A500A unit. I have trimmed the fixture to match the rudder bottom, but will need to purchase the Whelen retainer ($18!!!!!) But I need to make sure it will fit- anyone done this? Or can someone using the Whelen unit measure the diameter of their lens so I can check it against the Aeroflash lens for fit before I send Spruce some MORE $$$$$! If this is totally cunfuzing, you can see these things here- Whelen: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/whelentaillights.php Aeroflash: http://aeroflash.com/plane.html#tailposition (almost at the bottom of the page) Thanks for any assistance! Mark ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:15:12 PM PST US From: "J. R. Dial" Subject: RE: RV-List: Static tubing --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" I ordered the static ports from Aircraft Spruce and use push on tubing that they use in building pneumatic control systems. Ports look better but I am sure they all work the same. DO NOT ARCHIVE -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BillRVSIX@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Static tubing --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com I have a question on the vans static kit. I bout new static ports to replace the pop rivet port, it comes with a barbed nipple for 1/4 in tubing vans use 1/8 tubing to connect the to ports together dose it matter what size tubing is used.Thanks Bill ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:06:47 PM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: RE: RV-List: Static tubing --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I used the same fittings, and the "old timers" at the airport thought they were the slickest things they have ever seen. Also make for a much cleaner installation due to the smaller size. At 04:13 PM 7/14/03 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" > > > I ordered the static ports from Aircraft Spruce and use push on >tubing that they use in building pneumatic control systems. Ports look >better but I am sure they all work the same. > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of >BillRVSIX@aol.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Static tubing > >--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com > >I have a question on the vans static kit. I bout new static ports to >replace >the pop rivet port, it comes with a barbed nipple for 1/4 in tubing vans >use >1/8 tubing to connect the to ports together dose it matter what size >tubing is >used.Thanks > >Bill > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:26:30 PM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RV-List: "All Shook Up" ... The Solution(s) !!! --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" In an earlier email to the list I mentioned a problem we were having with vibrations. For all the comments/suggestions both "on-list" and "off-list" ... (use Elvis voice here) ... Thank you very much! Summary: IT FEELS MUCH BETTER NOW!! I am not sure if there has been a single solution, although I suspect the replacement of the engine mounts did the most. There were several things done and each had its effect. For example: 1. Fixing the timing (off just a few degrees) made things better but did not fix the root problem. 2. The earlier dynamic balancing made things better but did not fix the root problem. 3. Replacing the electronic ignition *seemed* to make things better (but that might just have been me feeling better because Jeff checked the old one out and it was just fine) 4. Getting the prop STATICALLY balanced made things better but did not fix the root problem. 5. Shimming up the sagging engine vibration mounts actually made the vibration MORE obvious. 6. Performing Lycoming Service Bulletin #1425(??) to check valves found silky smooth valves. 7. Replacing the carb and getting some adjustment made the engine smooth out from initial start. 8. Putting in the new (from Van's) conical isolation mounts ($300.00 vs $30.00) probably made the biggest difference in the FEEL I get of the vibration. 9. Final dynamic balance of the whole lot has probably made it just a bit better as well. I know some of you are saying if all these things made it a "little better" then it must have been REALLY bad and is now REALLY great. Well, as you are making these changes, I think that one often *thinks* it got better or *wants* it to have gotten better. I do think I could detect *some* improvement in most of the activities. It was bad and it is now good. The plane has been flown about 200 miles with the above changes minus the dynamic balancing. It has been flown about 6 miles with the final dynamic balance (to .06 ips, I think). I will get a better feel over the next week or so and report if it is different. Moral of the saga ... if you have "vibes" and you have CONICAL mounts, go back and check to see if they happen to be the "cheaper" versions. If they are, replace them first. It will cost $300+ and a few hours but you may solve 80% of the problem right away. And yes there was one entry in the archives where someone went through the same basic routine and ended up in the same basic place, but then there were others who ended up with different solutions. Again, thanks to all and HOPEFULLY someone else will benefit from this. James ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 03:49:25 PM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Static tubing --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Check the archives. There seems to be a lot of question about whether they all work the same. Terry At 04:13 PM 7/14/03 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" > > > I ordered the static ports from Aircraft Spruce and use push on >tubing that they use in building pneumatic control systems. Ports look >better but I am sure they all work the same. > DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:17:55 PM PST US From: "Jordan Grant" Subject: RV-List: DITY move for airplane project --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" To all the military airplane builders out there: Has anyone found a way around the ridiculous 'No Airplane Parts' rule for military DITY moves? I mean, other than just claiming that its a big aluminum canoe in there? I just came from my briefing today where they told us: "Sure, you can move your boat/motorcylce/jetski/ATV/hang-glider, but you can't move the airplane project that's in your garage". I'm a little irritated with the ridiculous bureaucracy that is our wonderful government. Jordan Grant RV-6 FWF Of course, Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 05:25:36 PM PST US From: "Paul Besing" Subject: Re: RV-List: DITY move for airplane project --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" Crate it up, and claim it's building materials, which it is. Just be sure to include tools in there as well, so you can say "building materials and tools" The only problem I see would be the value. Military movers really suck. On our last PCS we had a crib, a bed, and a piece of funiture all damaged. So, be careful how you do it. At least crate it really well, so you can be assured they don't screw it up, because if they do, you will likely not get paid. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10) http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jordan Grant" Subject: RV-List: DITY move for airplane project > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" > > To all the military airplane builders out there: > Has anyone found a way around the ridiculous 'No Airplane Parts' > rule for military DITY moves? I mean, other than just claiming that its > a big aluminum canoe in there? I just came from my briefing today where > they told us: "Sure, you can move your > boat/motorcylce/jetski/ATV/hang-glider, but you can't move the airplane > project that's in your garage". I'm a little irritated with the > ridiculous bureaucracy that is our wonderful government. > > Jordan Grant > RV-6 FWF > > Of course, Do Not Archive > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 05:58:15 PM PST US From: mstewart@qa.butler.com Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source tests=AWL,BAYES_01,HTML_10_20,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE, QUOTED_EMAIL_TEXT,USER_IN_WHITELIST autolearn=ham version=2.53 --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com Hi Jody, Well I only get it at altitudes above 11k'. My pilot cabin heat valve dumps right into the gascolator when not heating the cabin. I bit the bullet and built a shroud today for the gascolator. If this does not work, and I think it will, I will try the fuel pump next. I have a scat tube blowing on the pump, but no shroud for it. Im off to Austin Tx tomorrow for business and will be cruisin with a 30kt tail wind at 16k', assuming the weather hold on for me. Looking forward to that nice change of pace headin west. Im heading to osh the friday before and going to Iowa for the formation clinic. Taking what looks to be a four ship out of Atlanta that Friday morning. Lookin like a lot of RV's in Iowa. Fun Fun. Mike do not archive. -----Original Message----- From: Jody Edwards Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source --> RV-List message posted by: Jody Edwards Hello Mike, Attended your formation seminar at LAL in January. Great presentation!As for your fuel boiling problem I've had similar problems with my 160 hp RV-4 while burning 92 octane auto fuel.With firewall mounted gascolator and blast tube fed heat shield I was still getting Fluctuating fuel pressure after landing and taxi or during quick turns,landings to pick up pax and immediate takeoff. I've solved this problem by throwing the damned gascolator overboard and installing two NAPA 3003 inline fuel filters upstream of the fuel selector.The engine mounted mechanical fuel pump is also another problem area.In the 70's Piper addressed this problem by adding a 1 1/2" blast tube fed aluminum shrould around the top and three sides of the pump.Along with firesleeving all fuel line FWF and installing SS heat shield where exhaust pipes route close to fuel lines I've had rock steady fuel pressure for the the last 250 + Hrs. under all conditions while burning the cheapest 92 octane auto fuel I can find! P.S. Going to OSH? Looking for someone to pal up with to join flight north. I live in Ft. Lauderdale, FL Hope this helps. I On Mon, 14 Jul 2003 11:08:45 -0400 tests=AWL,BAYES_01,HTML_70_80,NO_REAL_NAME,USER_IN_WHITELIST version=2.53 mstewart@qa.butler.com writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com > > Anyone have a source for this? > > I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem. > > No joy in the archives. > > > Mike Stewart > > Do not archive > > > > > > Anyone have a source for this? > > > I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel > boiling > problem. > > > No joy in the archives. > > > > > > Mike Stewart > > > Do not archive > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 06:00:18 PM PST US From: "Tracy Crook" Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" My appologies in advance to sacred cow lovers everywhere and excuse the diversion from the original question. I'm curious about the logic behind this. The typical aircraft gascolator installation has never made any sense to me. Here are the ingredients we are working with. A mechanical fuel pump with high negative pressure pulses on the inlet side, mounted on a hot aircooled engine. In the case of the RV, it is pulling fuel up hill from the tanks with the additional handicap of in-line restriction of a boost pump (when not powered on). Then to add insult to injury, the fuel is pre-heated by going through a gascolator mounted in the duct for air that has been heated by an air cooled engine and radiated upon by close proximity to exhaust pipes at 1400 degrees. This is a fuel system begging for vapor lock to occur. Or am I missing something? I'm sure it will send shudders up the spines of veteran builders but my gascolator in inside the cockpit (plumbed to an external drain fitting) along with my two EFI fuel pumps. Never had a hint of vapor lock even on auto fuel. Tracy Crook > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com > > Anyone have a source for this? > > I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem. > > No joy in the archives. > > > Mike Stewart ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 06:38:06 PM PST US From: Bobby Hester Subject: RV-List: Pitot line end? --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester Ready to instatll the pitot line in the wing. How should I leave the inboard end? -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 06:58:35 PM PST US From: "lucky macy" Subject: Re: RV-List: Radios --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/features/features.html how does it stack up against this beauty? This is what I'm considering as a space saver and pretty functional as the specs show >From: JDaniel343@aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: Radios >Date: Mon, 14 Jul 2003 14:54:16 EDT > >--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com > >I'll concure with the UPS SL-40 radio. This radio has great features such >as >being able to monitor 1 frequency while tuned into another. Great for >listening to ATIS. > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 07:17:51 PM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" Mike, I know this is not answering the question you asked but ... The Columbia-based "Palmetto Wing" [:-)] RVs have the gascolators in each wing root. Don't know if your tanks are easily removed but if they are then that might be a ***REMOTE*** consideration. I happen to know that one has in fact worked "up real high" with this config and no problems. Just curious ... when the problem occurs, is your boost pump on??? THe reason I ask is because as I was happily strolling along at the controls of a friends Pressurize Baron at "Flight Level xyz", I notice the fuel pressure starting to DROP(!!). I mentioned this to the owner/left-seater and he casually said "oh, yeah that happens at altitude" and turned on the boost pump. Says he always runs them up high. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of > mstewart@qa.butler.com > Sent: Monday, July 14, 2003 11:09 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Gascolator Cooling Shroud Source > > > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com > > Anyone have a source for this? > > I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling problem. > > No joy in the archives. > > > Mike Stewart > > Do not archive > > > > > > Anyone have a source for this? > > > I am thinking this will cure my high alt. fuel boiling > problem. > > > No joy in the archives. > > > > > > Mike Stewart > > > Do not archive > > > > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 07:27:24 PM PST US From: "Val & Bill Lunger" Subject: RV-List: RV-6 for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Val & Bill Lunger" Complete Kit including the finish kit, sliding canopy, O-360 Engine mount, constant speed cowl spinner kit, dual landing lights, Philogiston built spar. Empennage completed. One wing completed. One wing 75% complete. Ailerons, flaps, elevators, rudder completed. Fuselage not started yet. Included fuselage jig and wing jig and some extras. Price$13,500.00. Located 75 miles south of Oshkosh. Please contact Bill off list at 414-425-2966 or at bluesky@naspa.net. Do not Archive ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 07:34:51 PM PST US From: "Don Mack" Subject: Re: RV-List: Radios --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" I am planning on the Xcom too. Only problem is you still can't buy them in the US. They are going to have a booth at OSH so hopefully they will have some word. Last I heard, they are still working on FCC approval. > --> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" > > http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/features/features.html > > how does it stack up against this beauty? This is what I'm considering as a > space saver and pretty functional as the specs show > do not archive ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 07:41:24 PM PST US From: "William Davis" Subject: RV-List: gascolators --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" I agree with Tracy on these critters with one exception, they should be eliminated entirely. They are a source of fuel leaks and vapor lock and are an anachronism whose time has past. Replace it with a good quality in line fuel filter such as the unit from Airflow Performance. Gascolators cannot be the low point in the fuel system on an RV , the low point is the tank drains so why put up with it? 1400+hrs.of RV flying with out gascolators proves that it works. Had one briefly on my first RV-4 but soon removed it after a vapor lock experience and had no problems since on that airplane. If you simply HAVE to have this sacred cow, mount it outside the fuselage in the wing root area. Bill Davis RV-8 Tiger-Kat ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 08:49:57 PM PST US From: Chris W Subject: Re: RV-List: gascolators --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W William Davis wrote: > . . . Gascolators cannot be the low point in the fuel system on an RV . . . I don't want to start a big primer type controversy but, it is my understanding that the gascolator does NOT need to be at the low point in the fuel system to do it's job. As I understand it, it will remove water from the fuel as it passes through the gascolator and you then drain the water that it collected the last time the engine was running not the water that drained down there while the plane was sitting in the hangar. -- Chris Woodhouse 3147 SW 127th St. Oklahoma City, OK 73170 405-691-5206 chrisw@programmer.net N35 20.492' W97 34.342' "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." -- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 09:43:03 PM PST US From: "Mark Nielsen" Subject: RV-List: Dynon --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Nielsen" > > IMHO the only way you will be able to "yank and bank" The Dynon into submission > is when one wing goes all the way south and the other north. Only then will you > exceed the velocities to confuse it. A few seconds after the big dust cloud it > will catch up to show just how bad the attitude really is. :>) > My experience shows that such extreme measures are not required... My Dynon EFIS will follow me through a one turn spin, but it "grays out" with "attitude indeterminate" in a 1-1/4 turn spin. To define the spins a little better... In the one turn spins, rotation stopped almost immediately upon application of opposite rudder (at one turn). In the 1-1/4 turn spins, opposite rudder was applied at the 1-1/4 point, and the rotation stopped at about the 1-3/4 point. After recovering from the 1-1/4 spin and leveling out, I immediately rolled into and out of alternating 30-40 degree banks. The grayed-out display still seemed to follow the airplane through the banks, although it did appear to wallow slightly. The display recovered fully in about 10 seconds. From this experience (6 or 7 spins), it would appear that the unit still had a pretty good idea of which way was up, even when grayed out. Please don't interpret these comments as negative. So far, I am very pleased with the Dynon EFIS. My biggest wish would be for the option to increase the display font size a bit (and to make it bold). After looking at the Dynon team photo, however, I don't think that they will understand why -- at least not until they put another 25-30 years of mileage on their eyeballs. :) Mark Nielsen RV-6, 850 hrs. Green Bay, WI ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:43 PM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: Re: RV-List: DITY move for airplane project --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" Buy the biggest boat you can pull and put all the airplane parts in it. You never know, it may work. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jordan Grant" Subject: RV-List: DITY move for airplane project > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" > > To all the military airplane builders out there: > Has anyone found a way around the ridiculous 'No Airplane Parts' > rule for military DITY moves? I mean, other than just claiming that its > a big aluminum canoe in there? I just came from my briefing today where > they told us: "Sure, you can move your > boat/motorcylce/jetski/ATV/hang-glider, but you can't move the airplane > project that's in your garage". I'm a little irritated with the > ridiculous bureaucracy that is our wonderful government. > > Jordan Grant > RV-6 FWF > > Of course, Do Not Archive > > > > > >