Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:22 AM - Re: AFP w/horizontal induction (Scott Bilinski)
2. 07:00 AM - Re: AFP w/horizontal induction (John Brick)
3. 07:56 AM - WTB: Landoll Balancer ()
4. 07:59 AM - Prop mfg. and crack (PGLong@aol.com)
5. 08:44 AM - so much for retreads (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
6. 08:51 AM - Re: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing (Kosta Lewis)
7. 09:40 AM - Wing rib riveting question (Gene Polenske)
8. 09:49 AM - Re: Wing rib riveting question (Brian Denk)
9. 10:12 AM - Re: Wing rib riveting question (terence.gannon@telus.net)
10. 10:24 AM - Re: so much for retreads (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
11. 10:24 AM - Re: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing (C. Rabaut)
12. 10:44 AM - Re: Wing rib riveting question (Gene Polenske)
13. 11:37 AM - NACA Ducts Installation (bruno)
14. 12:56 PM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (J. R. Dial)
15. 01:01 PM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (Moore, Warren)
16. 01:11 PM - Re: Wing rib riveting question (James Jula)
17. 04:54 PM - SSP (Rick Galati)
18. 05:54 PM - Re: SSP (Evan and Megan Johnson)
19. 06:33 PM - Re: SSP (Rquinn1@aol.com)
20. 06:37 PM - Re: SSP (John Starn)
21. 07:12 PM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (Kevin Horton)
22. 07:12 PM - Re: SSP (Kevin Horton)
23. 07:36 PM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (Joe Hine)
24. 08:32 PM - Re: [nonspam] Re: so much for retreads (Larry Pardue)
25. 09:32 PM - Re: [nonspam] Re: so much for retreads (Jerry Springer)
26. 09:36 PM - Re: Microair T2000 SFL Sale (aronsond)
27. 09:47 PM - Re: Fw: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs (Vanremog@aol.com)
28. 11:52 PM - Re: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question) (Meketa)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: AFP w/horizontal induction |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I saw this type problem at the local airport with a Ellison system. Either
you will need longer cables so they U turn and come in from the front,
meaning pointing towards the tail of the plane after installing. Or you
could make up a bell crank system to reverse the throw using the standard
cables and routing. I like the idea of longer cables myself........if they
will fit?
At 04:37 PM 7/21/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>If anybody out there has installed Airflow Performance injection on an
>IO-360 with horizontal induction, please let me know. I'm having quite a
>bit of trouble visualizing the control cable setup! AFP just told me they
>haven't seen one installed on a horizontal induction engine yet. I was,
>um...surprised to hear that. Surely I can't be the first!
>
>The issue I'm having is that even if I move the throttle arm to the right
>side (FM-200), the action is reversed, and the sump itself gets in the way
>of doing anything useful with it.
>
>The mixture is a whole 'nuther issue just like that, where I'm at a loss as
>to how I'm going to rig up the control for it.
>
>Any help is much appreciated.
>
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 2
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| Subject: | AFP w/horizontal induction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Brick" <jbrick@wolfenet.com>
Throttle - I am using a throttle quadrant so I need to have the throttle
lever on the F.I. move aft for full throttle. My throttle lever is on the
left and pointed up which gives me the correct movement. The problem
though, full movement of the long lever hole is 2 7/16 inches and of the
short lever hole is 1 13/16 inches. A hole half way in between would exactly
match the full range of the throttle cable which is 2 2/16 inches. Don
Riviera recommended drilling a third hole in the lever in between the two
existing and shortening the lever for clearance with the sump. I probably
will do that when I convince myself the lever won't be overly weakened.
Rick,
If you are able to change the push-pull direction of the cable end a little,
you can get the 2 7/16 throw without having to move the throttle lever that
much. Lay it our on graph paper.
jb
AFP vertical induction
Message 3
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| Subject: | WTB: Landoll Balancer |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
Wanted to buy: Landoll Harmonic Balancer/Steel Ring, good condition all
parts included, please contact off list.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Prop mfg. and crack |
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
Hi Group
Looking for some help in determining what brand of prop came with the
partially built RV4 I purchased a year ago. For a description it has this part
number
stamped in the wood. 68X66-20=A0=A0 I know the size is 68 "with a 66" pitch, but
that is all. It is made of 6 layers of what looks like it could be birch or
maple and glued with resorcinol because the glue is black in color. It has
something like a Teflon coating on the leading edge and back side and also has
the
same material except white on the front side at the tips for 7-1/2". I suppose
it could be paint but seems not to be. The balance is clear finish of some
kind. Anyone have any ideas? Reason for my concern is that looking into the
2-3/16" bored hole in the center I can a crack in the end grain radiating out
towards each of the tips. The small crack is only about=A0 2-1/2" in length. This
area has no finish on it and I'm thinking these cracks are from moisture getting
into and out of the wood. But to be safe, I would like to contact the
manufacture or even send back for his advice. Thanks in advance for your help.
Pat Long
RV-4 in Michigan
85% done
Message 5
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| Subject: | so much for retreads |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
After recommendations from Vans and others, I opted this time to replace my
worn tires with retreads. They last twice as long and cost half the price
I'm told. They are also just a little bit bigger than original tires. Just
bigger enough so that a single flight, there is now a big hole on the top of
my left wheel pant and some early abrading on the right side too.
Perfect example of things that you think are too good to be true, probably
are.
Anyway, if anyone wants a free set of one landing old 5x500 retreads, they
are yours for the cost of shipping.
Andy
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Things that we do to our airplanes should look like we did them for a
purpose, not to fix something. I have seen several "fixes" for the
canopy skirt rubbing and, to me, they looked like "fixes": something
that was correcting something else that was going on. We have rubber
channels on other parts of the airplane: the wing-to-fuselage
intersection, for example. I used a rubber "U" channel, with one side of
the "U" being a tad longer than the other, the longer side being inside.
It works well and looks like it belongs there, like I did it on purpose.
Which I did. NOT that the other fixes don't look like they belong. Black
rubber channel looks good and is functional.
IMHO, only. Mine looks good to me. Which is what matters, after all. Do
something that looks OK to you. At OSH, look at the various ideas. Then
do yours. Someone will be looking at yours one day and say, hey, that
looks good; that was a good idea.
Michael
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wing rib riveting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>
I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the wing
ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are curling
up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners.
Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat against
the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as the rivet
expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong.
Thanks,
Gene Polenske
RV-8 Wings
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wing rib riveting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>
>
>I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the
>wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are
>curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners.
>
>Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat
>against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as
>the rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong.
>
>Thanks,
>Gene Polenske
>RV-8 Wings
It's happening due to rivet shank expansion and compression of the shop
head. It's normal.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wing rib riveting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
Gene -- as Brian has already said, this is normal...I think it's fair to say
to virtually everybody has experienced it at one time or another. However, I
did come across a technique this past weekend (while visiting another fella's
project) that had a GREAT tip on how to avoid it, should you want to -- at
least for the most part.
Take a small piece of heavy rubber sheet that is *slightly* thinner than the
tail of the unset rivet. Drill a hole slightly larger than the size of the
rivet shank towards one edge so that you can slip the hole over the unset
rivet. Now shoot and buck the rivet the way you normally do. The first
couple of taps will set the rivet enough so that the tail and the rubber will
now be the same thickness. For the balance of the setting process, the rubber
keeps the flange pressed nice and flat against the mating surface.
I watched as the guy did this on a number of problem rivets, and it seemed to
work like a charm, every time. I'll be giving it a try the next time I'm in
this type of situation.
Hope this helps!
Best regards...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
Quoting Gene Polenske <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>
>
> I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the
> wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are
> curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners.
>
> Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat
> against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as the
> rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong.
>
> Thanks,
> Gene Polenske
> RV-8 Wings
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: so much for retreads |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
The tires go to Ed Bundy who was the first to ask less than 5 minutes after
I posted the offer. Ed apparently has oversized draggy wheel pants that can
handle these big retreads. A good thing to know if you ever get the chance
to wager on a race.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
http://buildersbooks.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Aircraft Technical Book Company <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Subject: RV-List: so much for retreads
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
<winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
> After recommendations from Vans and others, I opted this time to replace
my
> worn tires with retreads. They last twice as long and cost half the price
> I'm told. They are also just a little bit bigger than original tires.
Just
> bigger enough so that a single flight, there is now a big hole on the top
of
> my left wheel pant and some early abrading on the right side too.
>
> Perfect example of things that you think are too good to be true, probably
> are.
>
> Anyway, if anyone wants a free set of one landing old 5x500 retreads, they
> are yours for the cost of shipping.
>
> Andy
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Mike,
Where did you get that "special" U channel, and do you have the part
number? Thanks,
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Kosta Lewis <mikel@dimensional.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
> Things that we do to our airplanes should look like we did them for a
> purpose, not to fix something. I have seen several "fixes" for the
> canopy skirt rubbing and, to me, they looked like "fixes": something
> that was correcting something else that was going on. We have rubber
> channels on other parts of the airplane: the wing-to-fuselage
> intersection, for example. I used a rubber "U" channel, with one side of
> the "U" being a tad longer than the other, the longer side being inside.
> It works well and looks like it belongs there, like I did it on purpose.
> Which I did. NOT that the other fixes don't look like they belong. Black
> rubber channel looks good and is functional.
>
> IMHO, only. Mine looks good to me. Which is what matters, after all. Do
> something that looks OK to you. At OSH, look at the various ideas. Then
> do yours. Someone will be looking at yours one day and say, hey, that
> looks good; that was a good idea.
>
> Michael
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wing rib riveting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>
Thanks Brain,
That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure I wasn't screwing up.
Do not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>
> >
> >I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting
the
> >wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange
are
> >curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners.
> >
> >Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid
flat
> >against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as
> >the rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Gene Polenske
> >RV-8 Wings
>
>
> It's happening due to rivet shank expansion and compression of the shop
> head. It's normal.
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | NACA Ducts Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts
From: smoothweasel@juno.com
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on
a -4 to let the most fresh air in?
I have heard that some places are more desirable than others.
Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have
Internet available here, only email.
Do not archive
Joel Graber
-4
------------------------------------------------
Hello Joel
As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing leading
edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used
to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow ) and
following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward
as mentioned earlier.
If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed
that's where the majority are installed.
Cheers
Bruno
RV-4 C-GDBH
Message 14
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| Subject: | NACA Ducts Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
VANS plans show where to put the ducts and they work great if
done that way. I would think they designed them in the best location.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruno
Subject: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts
From: smoothweasel@juno.com
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed
on
a -4 to let the most fresh air in?
I have heard that some places are more desirable than others.
Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't
have
Internet available here, only email.
Do not archive
Joel Graber
-4
------------------------------------------------
Hello Joel
As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing
leading
edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine
used
to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow )
and
following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them
forward
as mentioned earlier.
If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed
that's where the majority are installed.
Cheers
Bruno
RV-4 C-GDBH
Message 15
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| Subject: | NACA Ducts Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore@TidelandsOil.com>
I'm not flying yet so I can't know for sure..... but I installed a NACA vent
on the bottom of the right wing, ala RV8, and routed it to a vent for the
rear seat. I also "T'ed" off this 2" duct and ran a 1 3/4 duct forward,
thru the wing using the routing Van suggested for rear seat heat, to a
swivel vent in front of the stick. No heat for the GIB, sorry. I also put
a NACA vent on the right side of the fuse as far forward as possible and
just under the fiberglass cowl cheek extension, 2" duct to a panel vent.
Per a lot of visits to air shows and talking with other RV4 drivers this
should work out. Hopefully will know in a few months.
-----Original Message-----
From: bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca]
Subject: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US
Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts
From: smoothweasel@juno.com
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on
a -4 to let the most fresh air in?
I have heard that some places are more desirable than others.
Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have
Internet available here, only email.
Do not archive
Joel Graber
-4
------------------------------------------------
Hello Joel
As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing leading
edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used
to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow ) and
following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward
as mentioned earlier.
If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed
that's where the majority are installed.
Cheers
Bruno
RV-4 C-GDBH
Message 16
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| Subject: | Wing rib riveting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James Jula" <jmjula@comcast.net>
Are you putting the machine head of the rivet on the flange? It is a bit
more difficult to rivet, but the curling will go away.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gene Polenske
Subject: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>
I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the
wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are
curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners.
Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat
against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as the
rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong.
Thanks,
Gene Polenske
RV-8 Wings
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A uses a standard
.089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way in, the fit gets too snug
for my liking. I could rework the hinges to make for a looser fit, but a much
easier way would be to find a hinge pin with a diameter between .080-085. Does
such an animal exist? If so where?
---------------------------------
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
rub some candle wax on the pin....I bet it will help.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: SSP
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A uses a
standard .089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way in, the fit gets
too snug for my liking. I could rework the hinges to make for a looser fit,
but a much easier way would be to find a hinge pin with a diameter between
.080-085. Does such an animal exist? If so where?
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com
Another solution is to get an extra hinge pin of the same diameter and file
one end slanted sharp as
the point of a chisel then chuck the hinge pin in your drill and start the
pin down the cowl hinges.
The point will round out the bends and cut the hinge loops enough though
allow the real hinge pin to be inserted.
Worked for me.
Rollie & Rod
6A
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
We have 140 hrs and 250 landings, removal of cowl havs been done lots of
times on HRII N561FS. We had the same problem at the start but with flight
time the eyes and hinge pins have "adjusted" to each other. In another
coupla years they could become too loose. At that point we'll just get new
pins. We used a battery powered drill motor to spin and insert the pins when
they were "new". The joint is still tight but the pins go in and out with
just a little bit of effort. Have not used the drill to remove or re-insert
the pins in more than a year. Do Not Archive. KABONG (GBA) 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: SSP
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> rub some candle wax on the pin....I bet it will help.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: SSP
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> >
> > The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A uses
a
> standard .089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way in, the fit
gets
> too snug for my liking. I could rework the hinges to make for a looser
fit,
> but a much easier way would be to find a hinge pin with a diameter between
> .080-085. Does such an animal exist? If so where?
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>
>Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US
>Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts
>From: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
>Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on
>a -4 to let the most fresh air in?
>I have heard that some places are more desirable than others.
>
>
>Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have
>Internet available here, only email.
>
>Do not archive
>
> Joel Graber
> -4
>------------------------------------------------
>Hello Joel
> As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing leading
>edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used
>to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow ) and
>following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward
>as mentioned earlier.
> If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed
>that's where the majority are installed.
>
>Cheers
>
>Bruno
>RV-4 C-GDBH
>
OK, this one has really got me scooped. Assuming you want air to
come in through the duct, wouldn't you want it in a high pressure
location?
Now, if you want to use the duct as an air exhaust, I agree a low
pressure area makes sense.
What am I missing?
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
>The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A
>uses a standard .089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way
>in, the fit gets too snug for my liking. I could rework the hinges
>to make for a looser fit, but a much easier way would be to find a
>hinge pin with a diameter between .080-085. Does such an animal
>exist? If so where?
>
I found that a bit of Boelube made a huge difference. I also used a
ScotchBrite wheel to put an off-centre tapered end on the pin. The
off-centre aspect really helps it catch the hinge eyes, if you rotate
it slowly as you insert it. At first, I could only get them in if I
cucked them in a drill to rotate them. After a few cycles of insert
and remove, I can now get them in by hand.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 23
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| Subject: | NACA Ducts Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Hi Guys
I don't know about the high and low pressure areas, but I have mine just
under the cheek extensions and get LOTS of air. A friend I fly with has one
on the canopy skirt, gets no air in and lots of noise. Has it plugged with
a rag most of the time. In the older 4 plans and manual Vans use to
indicate that they went on the canopy skirt. Now I think they suggest under
the wing. I think it would be very hard to get the air from the wing to a
vent on the panel. I just have short piece of scat tube and it works great.
A second vent under the wing would probably be great for the rear seater. I
have no provision for air in the back.
Cheers
Joe Hine
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
>
>Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US
>Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts
>From: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>
>Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on
>a -4 to let the most fresh air in?
>I have heard that some places are more desirable than others.
>
>
>Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have
>Internet available here, only email.
>
>Do not archive
>
> Joel Graber
> -4
>------------------------------------------------
>Hello Joel
> As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing
leading
>edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used
>to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow )
and
>following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward
>as mentioned earlier.
> If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed
>that's where the majority are installed.
>
>Cheers
>
>Bruno
>RV-4 C-GDBH
>
OK, this one has really got me scooped. Assuming you want air to
come in through the duct, wouldn't you want it in a high pressure
location?
Now, if you want to use the duct as an air exhaust, I agree a low
pressure area makes sense.
What am I missing?
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: so much for retreads |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
<winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
> The tires go to Ed Bundy who was the first to ask less than 5 minutes
after
> I posted the offer. Ed apparently has oversized draggy wheel pants that
can
> handle these big retreads. A good thing to know if you ever get the
chance
> to wager on a race.
>
I use retreads and am very happy with them. I have the new Van's pressure
recovery wheelpants, installed per instructions with the original equipment
tires. Draggy? I guess, but I documented reduced drag compared to the
smaller wheelpants I originally had installed.
Sorry I missed out on the offer.
In a related matter, the last tire change I changed to the Michelin Airstop
tubes and will not go back. Since this change in May I have not added air.
It used to be about every two weeks.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: so much for retreads |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Larry Pardue wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
>
> <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
>>The tires go to Ed Bundy who was the first to ask less than 5 minutes
>
> after
>
>>I posted the offer. Ed apparently has oversized draggy wheel pants that
>
> can
>
>>handle these big retreads. A good thing to know if you ever get the
>
> chance
>
>>to wager on a race.
>>
>
>
> I use retreads and am very happy with them. I have the new Van's pressure
> recovery wheelpants, installed per instructions with the original equipment
> tires. Draggy? I guess, but I documented reduced drag compared to the
> smaller wheelpants I originally had installed.
>
> Sorry I missed out on the offer.
>
> In a related matter, the last tire change I changed to the Michelin Airstop
> tubes and will not go back. Since this change in May I have not added air.
> It used to be about every two weeks.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
I too can testify that they ARE NOT "draggy," Van himself told me that I should
see about 6 mph when I installed them. I see a good honest 4 mph and I have not
yet installed the lower wheel pant cuff. the last set of tires I bought are
Desser retreads and so far I have been very happy with them.
Jerry
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Microair T2000 SFL Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "aronsond" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Garry:
Received your check today. Will deposit and send unit tomorrow. You should
get in two days. I will let you know tracking No.
Thanks, Off to Kosh......
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Garry LeGare" <versadek@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair T2000 SFL Sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: Garry LeGare <versadek@earthlink.net>
>
> Dave, I'll take it if it's still available.
>
> aronsond wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "aronsond" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
> >
> >Lister:
> >I have a new, never opened Microair T2000 SFL for sale. Chiefs wants
> >$1415.00 for it. I will sell for 1200. It comes with 1 year warantee
from
> >supplier (from time aircraft is flying). Going to Ebay in a day or so.
> >Dave Aronson
> >N504RV RV4
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 7/21/2003 8:59:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rickf@cableone.net writes:
> Does anyone know of a source for either all metal lock nuts or drilled nuts
> with 5/16 X 18 threads for the carb studs on the bottom of the engine. I
> would prefer either one to regular nuts with Loctite or jam nuts.
McMaster-Carr has them. P/N 91839A127 pkg of 5 is around $10. Contact info
is in the Yeller Pages.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 615hrs)
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
Hello Yall
The AC/DC switch specs. discusion never came to a helpful end. I
promised to write no more on the subject, but felt the overwelming
desire to get down to the truth on the subject. The problem is that
there is no real answer as far as our small 14 volt aircraft are involved.
I will not attempt to give any answers one way or another, but the
data as I have found it. You can come to your own conclusions
1. The EAA switch article in the April issue of Experimenter. I have
not found a copy of the article, but talked to a structural DER who
read it and heard enough to have an idea of its content. Basically the
author recommended nothing but DC rated switches. I would
like a link to or copy of the article if anyone has one.
2. An article on the same subject and possibly the same one as above.
http://safetydata.com/switches.htm Some of the data in the article
has no real meaning in our application. Points in an coil system have
nothing to do with the type of switches used in our aircraft. Also
I have my doubts to a fast acting switch contact welding itself
together.
Has anyone had a set of toggle switch contacts weld together?
3. Another switch article http://www.sbw.org/switches/. How are AC
only rated switches on a certified aircraft. Just looking at the
original
and the FAA certified replacement it is obvious that the load carrying
ability of the switches is in question for landing lamps and pitot heat.
Nothing to do with ratings, they just look too cheaply built to take any
type of heat from the contact or terminals. Notice the mention of
Aeroelectric Connection and the quality push-on terminal description.
4.Some data from the Carling Switch web site.
http://www.carlingtech.com/products/switches/faq.asp?cat=2#11
Q: What DC current and voltage will an AC rated switch handle?
A: The DC current "rule of thumb" holds that the highest amperage
rating on the switch should perform satisfactorily up to 30 volts
DC.
For example, if you have an F Series toggle switch which is rated at
10A 250VAC, 15A 125-250VAC, the DC rating is 15A up to
30VDC
This is from the manufacturer that supplies the switches on the
certified Piper and Grumman, also the switches sold by Aeroelectric.
I have a few doubts to such a crossover, but there it is from the
manufacturer. Why do the actual switch specs not show these ratings
from them?? The description for several of their switches mentions
rated for AC and DC but no DC mentioned in the specs??
5.Not really related, but mentions DC circuits and the use of high quality
switches at the end.
http://lists.rnib.org.uk/pipermail/tbtalk/2003-March/000257.html
6.The article by Bob Knuckles on switch ratings
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf
A lot of common sense with years of experience. I do not tend to agree
with everything he suggests (who cares? I do) , but he does know what
he is talking about. I have no personal doubts on the switch info.
7. I talked to an Engineer at Raytheon who designs electrical systems for
aircraft STC,s. He had no real answers for my questions, but would have
no problem using a name brand, high quality, AC only switch in a DC
application with the same ratings at 14 volts DC as the switch is rated
for 125 lots AC. He stated that only ring terminals or solder leads to
the
switch are used by him.
8. I also talked to two DER's. Both electrical engineers. They were less
help
as they mainly worked on larger commercial aircraft. Both stated they
had no problems with the above statement, but had a few issues with lamp
and motor loads. They like to see a switch rating at least 5 times the
lamp
current draw due to the high inrush current to light the lamp and 2 1/2
times
the electric motor running draw due to high start up surge currents. This
is
under ideal conditions and there was the realization that sometimes there
is
no choice but to run the lower than ideally rated switch as long as it
meets
the working limit by at least 50%. They both felt that the more expensive
AC switches have sufficient contact size and quality to work. There was
some
discussion concerning contact life and the installation of suppression
diodes to
help prevent arcing, but no conclusions were made.
It seems that there is no ideal answer to the switch question. The actual
rating
has no true meaning, just that it was tested and passed under some specific
conditions.
Switch quality should mean something. If it is inexpensive (LIKE 2 DOLLARS)
it
likely lot well built. If it looks and feels high quality with good AC
ratings it is likely
fine.
In conclusion. Well, I have none.
George Meketa
RV8, N444TX, 356.8 hours
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