---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 07/22/03: 28 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:22 AM - Re: AFP w/horizontal induction (Scott Bilinski) 2. 07:00 AM - Re: AFP w/horizontal induction (John Brick) 3. 07:56 AM - WTB: Landoll Balancer () 4. 07:59 AM - Prop mfg. and crack (PGLong@aol.com) 5. 08:44 AM - so much for retreads (Aircraft Technical Book Company) 6. 08:51 AM - Re: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing (Kosta Lewis) 7. 09:40 AM - Wing rib riveting question (Gene Polenske) 8. 09:49 AM - Re: Wing rib riveting question (Brian Denk) 9. 10:12 AM - Re: Wing rib riveting question (terence.gannon@telus.net) 10. 10:24 AM - Re: so much for retreads (Aircraft Technical Book Company) 11. 10:24 AM - Re: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing (C. Rabaut) 12. 10:44 AM - Re: Wing rib riveting question (Gene Polenske) 13. 11:37 AM - NACA Ducts Installation (bruno) 14. 12:56 PM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (J. R. Dial) 15. 01:01 PM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (Moore, Warren) 16. 01:11 PM - Re: Wing rib riveting question (James Jula) 17. 04:54 PM - SSP (Rick Galati) 18. 05:54 PM - Re: SSP (Evan and Megan Johnson) 19. 06:33 PM - Re: SSP (Rquinn1@aol.com) 20. 06:37 PM - Re: SSP (John Starn) 21. 07:12 PM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (Kevin Horton) 22. 07:12 PM - Re: SSP (Kevin Horton) 23. 07:36 PM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (Joe Hine) 24. 08:32 PM - Re: [nonspam] Re: so much for retreads (Larry Pardue) 25. 09:32 PM - Re: [nonspam] Re: so much for retreads (Jerry Springer) 26. 09:36 PM - Re: Microair T2000 SFL Sale (aronsond) 27. 09:47 PM - Re: Fw: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs (Vanremog@aol.com) 28. 11:52 PM - Re: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question) (Meketa) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:22:08 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: AFP w/horizontal induction --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I saw this type problem at the local airport with a Ellison system. Either you will need longer cables so they U turn and come in from the front, meaning pointing towards the tail of the plane after installing. Or you could make up a bell crank system to reverse the throw using the standard cables and routing. I like the idea of longer cables myself........if they will fit? At 04:37 PM 7/21/03 -0700, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >If anybody out there has installed Airflow Performance injection on an >IO-360 with horizontal induction, please let me know. I'm having quite a >bit of trouble visualizing the control cable setup! AFP just told me they >haven't seen one installed on a horizontal induction engine yet. I was, >um...surprised to hear that. Surely I can't be the first! > >The issue I'm having is that even if I move the throttle arm to the right >side (FM-200), the action is reversed, and the sump itself gets in the way >of doing anything useful with it. > >The mixture is a whole 'nuther issue just like that, where I'm at a loss as >to how I'm going to rig up the control for it. > >Any help is much appreciated. > >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:00:51 AM PST US From: "John Brick" Subject: RE: RV-List: AFP w/horizontal induction --> RV-List message posted by: "John Brick" Throttle - I am using a throttle quadrant so I need to have the throttle lever on the F.I. move aft for full throttle. My throttle lever is on the left and pointed up which gives me the correct movement. The problem though, full movement of the long lever hole is 2 7/16 inches and of the short lever hole is 1 13/16 inches. A hole half way in between would exactly match the full range of the throttle cable which is 2 2/16 inches. Don Riviera recommended drilling a third hole in the lever in between the two existing and shortening the lever for clearance with the sump. I probably will do that when I convince myself the lever won't be overly weakened. Rick, If you are able to change the push-pull direction of the cable end a little, you can get the 2 7/16 throw without having to move the throttle lever that much. Lay it our on graph paper. jb AFP vertical induction ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:56:00 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: WTB: Landoll Balancer From: --> RV-List message posted by: Wanted to buy: Landoll Harmonic Balancer/Steel Ring, good condition all parts included, please contact off list. Rob Acker (RV-6 flying) do not archive ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:59:26 AM PST US From: PGLong@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Prop mfg. and crack --> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com Hi Group Looking for some help in determining what brand of prop came with the partially built RV4 I purchased a year ago. For a description it has this part number stamped in the wood. 68X66-20=A0=A0 I know the size is 68 "with a 66" pitch, but that is all. It is made of 6 layers of what looks like it could be birch or maple and glued with resorcinol because the glue is black in color. It has something like a Teflon coating on the leading edge and back side and also has the same material except white on the front side at the tips for 7-1/2". I suppose it could be paint but seems not to be. The balance is clear finish of some kind. Anyone have any ideas? Reason for my concern is that looking into the 2-3/16" bored hole in the center I can a crack in the end grain radiating out towards each of the tips. The small crack is only about=A0 2-1/2" in length. This area has no finish on it and I'm thinking these cracks are from moisture getting into and out of the wood. But to be safe, I would like to contact the manufacture or even send back for his advice. Thanks in advance for your help. Pat Long RV-4 in Michigan 85% done ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:44:32 AM PST US From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" Subject: RV-List: so much for retreads --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" After recommendations from Vans and others, I opted this time to replace my worn tires with retreads. They last twice as long and cost half the price I'm told. They are also just a little bit bigger than original tires. Just bigger enough so that a single flight, there is now a big hole on the top of my left wheel pant and some early abrading on the right side too. Perfect example of things that you think are too good to be true, probably are. Anyway, if anyone wants a free set of one landing old 5x500 retreads, they are yours for the cost of shipping. Andy ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:51:04 AM PST US From: "Kosta Lewis" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" Things that we do to our airplanes should look like we did them for a purpose, not to fix something. I have seen several "fixes" for the canopy skirt rubbing and, to me, they looked like "fixes": something that was correcting something else that was going on. We have rubber channels on other parts of the airplane: the wing-to-fuselage intersection, for example. I used a rubber "U" channel, with one side of the "U" being a tad longer than the other, the longer side being inside. It works well and looks like it belongs there, like I did it on purpose. Which I did. NOT that the other fixes don't look like they belong. Black rubber channel looks good and is functional. IMHO, only. Mine looks good to me. Which is what matters, after all. Do something that looks OK to you. At OSH, look at the various ideas. Then do yours. Someone will be looking at yours one day and say, hey, that looks good; that was a good idea. Michael ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:40:37 AM PST US From: "Gene Polenske" Subject: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question --> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners. Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as the rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong. Thanks, Gene Polenske RV-8 Wings ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:49:49 AM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" > >I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the >wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are >curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners. > >Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat >against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as >the rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong. > >Thanks, >Gene Polenske >RV-8 Wings It's happening due to rivet shank expansion and compression of the shop head. It's normal. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:12:55 AM PST US From: terence.gannon@telus.net Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question --> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net Gene -- as Brian has already said, this is normal...I think it's fair to say to virtually everybody has experienced it at one time or another. However, I did come across a technique this past weekend (while visiting another fella's project) that had a GREAT tip on how to avoid it, should you want to -- at least for the most part. Take a small piece of heavy rubber sheet that is *slightly* thinner than the tail of the unset rivet. Drill a hole slightly larger than the size of the rivet shank towards one edge so that you can slip the hole over the unset rivet. Now shoot and buck the rivet the way you normally do. The first couple of taps will set the rivet enough so that the tail and the rubber will now be the same thickness. For the balance of the setting process, the rubber keeps the flange pressed nice and flat against the mating surface. I watched as the guy did this on a number of problem rivets, and it seemed to work like a charm, every time. I'll be giving it a try the next time I'm in this type of situation. Hope this helps! Best regards... Terry in Calgary RV-6 S/N 24414 "Wings" Quoting Gene Polenske : > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" > > I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the > wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are > curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners. > > Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat > against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as the > rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong. > > Thanks, > Gene Polenske > RV-8 Wings ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:24:13 AM PST US From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" Subject: Re: RV-List: so much for retreads --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" The tires go to Ed Bundy who was the first to ask less than 5 minutes after I posted the offer. Ed apparently has oversized draggy wheel pants that can handle these big retreads. A good thing to know if you ever get the chance to wager on a race. Andy Builder's Bookstore http://buildersbooks.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Aircraft Technical Book Company Subject: RV-List: so much for retreads > --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" > > After recommendations from Vans and others, I opted this time to replace my > worn tires with retreads. They last twice as long and cost half the price > I'm told. They are also just a little bit bigger than original tires. Just > bigger enough so that a single flight, there is now a big hole on the top of > my left wheel pant and some early abrading on the right side too. > > Perfect example of things that you think are too good to be true, probably > are. > > Anyway, if anyone wants a free set of one landing old 5x500 retreads, they > are yours for the cost of shipping. > > Andy > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:24:59 AM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Mike, Where did you get that "special" U channel, and do you have the part number? Thanks, Chuck do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Kosta Lewis Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Canopy skirt chafing > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" > > Things that we do to our airplanes should look like we did them for a > purpose, not to fix something. I have seen several "fixes" for the > canopy skirt rubbing and, to me, they looked like "fixes": something > that was correcting something else that was going on. We have rubber > channels on other parts of the airplane: the wing-to-fuselage > intersection, for example. I used a rubber "U" channel, with one side of > the "U" being a tad longer than the other, the longer side being inside. > It works well and looks like it belongs there, like I did it on purpose. > Which I did. NOT that the other fixes don't look like they belong. Black > rubber channel looks good and is functional. > > IMHO, only. Mine looks good to me. Which is what matters, after all. Do > something that looks OK to you. At OSH, look at the various ideas. Then > do yours. Someone will be looking at yours one day and say, hey, that > looks good; that was a good idea. > > Michael > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:44:10 AM PST US From: "Gene Polenske" Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question --> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" Thanks Brain, That's what I thought, just wanted to be sure I wasn't screwing up. Do not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question > --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" > > > >I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the > >wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are > >curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners. > > > >Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat > >against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as > >the rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong. > > > >Thanks, > >Gene Polenske > >RV-8 Wings > > > It's happening due to rivet shank expansion and compression of the shop > head. It's normal. > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 11:37:46 AM PST US From: bruno Subject: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation --> RV-List message posted by: bruno Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts From: smoothweasel@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on a -4 to let the most fresh air in? I have heard that some places are more desirable than others. Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have Internet available here, only email. Do not archive Joel Graber -4 ------------------------------------------------ Hello Joel As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing leading edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow ) and following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward as mentioned earlier. If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed that's where the majority are installed. Cheers Bruno RV-4 C-GDBH ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 12:56:14 PM PST US From: "J. R. Dial" Subject: RE: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" VANS plans show where to put the ducts and they work great if done that way. I would think they designed them in the best location. DO NOT ARCHIVE -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bruno Subject: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation --> RV-List message posted by: bruno Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts From: smoothweasel@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on a -4 to let the most fresh air in? I have heard that some places are more desirable than others. Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have Internet available here, only email. Do not archive Joel Graber -4 ------------------------------------------------ Hello Joel As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing leading edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow ) and following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward as mentioned earlier. If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed that's where the majority are installed. Cheers Bruno RV-4 C-GDBH ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:01:38 PM PST US From: "Moore, Warren" Subject: RE: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation --> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" I'm not flying yet so I can't know for sure..... but I installed a NACA vent on the bottom of the right wing, ala RV8, and routed it to a vent for the rear seat. I also "T'ed" off this 2" duct and ran a 1 3/4 duct forward, thru the wing using the routing Van suggested for rear seat heat, to a swivel vent in front of the stick. No heat for the GIB, sorry. I also put a NACA vent on the right side of the fuse as far forward as possible and just under the fiberglass cowl cheek extension, 2" duct to a panel vent. Per a lot of visits to air shows and talking with other RV4 drivers this should work out. Hopefully will know in a few months. -----Original Message----- From: bruno [mailto:rv4@videotron.ca] Subject: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation --> RV-List message posted by: bruno Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts From: smoothweasel@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on a -4 to let the most fresh air in? I have heard that some places are more desirable than others. Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have Internet available here, only email. Do not archive Joel Graber -4 ------------------------------------------------ Hello Joel As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing leading edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow ) and following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward as mentioned earlier. If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed that's where the majority are installed. Cheers Bruno RV-4 C-GDBH ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 01:11:17 PM PST US From: "James Jula" Subject: RE: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question --> RV-List message posted by: "James Jula" Are you putting the machine head of the rivet on the flange? It is a bit more difficult to rivet, but the curling will go away. James -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gene Polenske Subject: RV-List: Wing rib riveting question --> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" I have a question to those who have gone before me. I am now riveting the wing ribs to the forward spar on my RV-8. The edges of the rib flange are curling up 1/32" to 1/16" especially the corners. Is this normal? I used clecos in every hole, and the rib flange laid flat against the spar web before. I assume it's from the metal stretching as the rivet expands. Is this right or am I doing something wrong. Thanks, Gene Polenske RV-8 Wings ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:54:47 PM PST US From: Rick Galati Subject: RV-List: SSP --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A uses a standard .089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way in, the fit gets too snug for my liking. I could rework the hinges to make for a looser fit, but a much easier way would be to find a hinge pin with a diameter between .080-085. Does such an animal exist? If so where? --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 05:54:13 PM PST US From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: Re: RV-List: SSP --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" rub some candle wax on the pin....I bet it will help. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Galati" Subject: RV-List: SSP > --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A uses a standard .089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way in, the fit gets too snug for my liking. I could rework the hinges to make for a looser fit, but a much easier way would be to find a hinge pin with a diameter between .080-085. Does such an animal exist? If so where? > > > --------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 06:33:17 PM PST US From: Rquinn1@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: SSP --> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com Another solution is to get an extra hinge pin of the same diameter and file one end slanted sharp as the point of a chisel then chuck the hinge pin in your drill and start the pin down the cowl hinges. The point will round out the bends and cut the hinge loops enough though allow the real hinge pin to be inserted. Worked for me. Rollie & Rod 6A ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 06:37:05 PM PST US From: "John Starn" Subject: Re: RV-List: SSP --> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" We have 140 hrs and 250 landings, removal of cowl havs been done lots of times on HRII N561FS. We had the same problem at the start but with flight time the eyes and hinge pins have "adjusted" to each other. In another coupla years they could become too loose. At that point we'll just get new pins. We used a battery powered drill motor to spin and insert the pins when they were "new". The joint is still tight but the pins go in and out with just a little bit of effort. Have not used the drill to remove or re-insert the pins in more than a year. Do Not Archive. KABONG (GBA) 8*) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: Re: RV-List: SSP > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > > rub some candle wax on the pin....I bet it will help. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Rick Galati" > To: > Subject: RV-List: SSP > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > > > > The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A uses a > standard .089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way in, the fit gets > too snug for my liking. I could rework the hinges to make for a looser fit, > but a much easier way would be to find a hinge pin with a diameter between > .080-085. Does such an animal exist? If so where? ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 07:12:37 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton >--> RV-List message posted by: bruno > >Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US >Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts >From: smoothweasel@juno.com > >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > >Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on >a -4 to let the most fresh air in? >I have heard that some places are more desirable than others. > > >Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have >Internet available here, only email. > >Do not archive > > Joel Graber > -4 >------------------------------------------------ >Hello Joel > As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing leading >edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used >to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow ) and >following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward >as mentioned earlier. > If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed >that's where the majority are installed. > >Cheers > >Bruno >RV-4 C-GDBH > OK, this one has really got me scooped. Assuming you want air to come in through the duct, wouldn't you want it in a high pressure location? Now, if you want to use the duct as an air exhaust, I agree a low pressure area makes sense. What am I missing? -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 07:12:37 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: SSP --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton >--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati > >The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A >uses a standard .089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way >in, the fit gets too snug for my liking. I could rework the hinges >to make for a looser fit, but a much easier way would be to find a >hinge pin with a diameter between .080-085. Does such an animal >exist? If so where? > I found that a bit of Boelube made a huge difference. I also used a ScotchBrite wheel to put an off-centre tapered end on the pin. The off-centre aspect really helps it catch the hinge eyes, if you rotate it slowly as you insert it. At first, I could only get them in if I cucked them in a drill to rotate them. After a few cycles of insert and remove, I can now get them in by hand. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 07:36:53 PM PST US From: "Joe Hine" Subject: RE: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" Hi Guys I don't know about the high and low pressure areas, but I have mine just under the cheek extensions and get LOTS of air. A friend I fly with has one on the canopy skirt, gets no air in and lots of noise. Has it plugged with a rag most of the time. In the older 4 plans and manual Vans use to indicate that they went on the canopy skirt. Now I think they suggest under the wing. I think it would be very hard to get the air from the wing to a vent on the panel. I just have short piece of scat tube and it works great. A second vent under the wing would probably be great for the rear seater. I have no provision for air in the back. Cheers Joe Hine -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: NACA Ducts Installation --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton >--> RV-List message posted by: bruno > >Time: 03:51:13 PM PST US >Subject: RV-List: NACA ducts >From: smoothweasel@juno.com > >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > >Does anyone know if it makes a difference where NACA duct is installed on >a -4 to let the most fresh air in? >I have heard that some places are more desirable than others. > > >Sorry if there is something on this in the archives on this. I don't have >Internet available here, only email. > >Do not archive > > Joel Graber > -4 >------------------------------------------------ >Hello Joel > As far as I know the best location is forward of the wing leading >edge (Low pressure area ) and slightly above the top of the wing.Mine used >to be installed on the canopy shirt ( High pressure area/ = No airflow ) and >following installation of a new canopy I decided to relocated them forward >as mentioned earlier. > If you look at different builder's web site, you will noticed >that's where the majority are installed. > >Cheers > >Bruno >RV-4 C-GDBH > OK, this one has really got me scooped. Assuming you want air to come in through the duct, wouldn't you want it in a high pressure location? Now, if you want to use the duct as an air exhaust, I agree a low pressure area makes sense. What am I missing? -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 08:32:02 PM PST US From: "Larry Pardue" Subject: Re: [nonspam] Re: RV-List: so much for retreads --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" > --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" > > The tires go to Ed Bundy who was the first to ask less than 5 minutes after > I posted the offer. Ed apparently has oversized draggy wheel pants that can > handle these big retreads. A good thing to know if you ever get the chance > to wager on a race. > I use retreads and am very happy with them. I have the new Van's pressure recovery wheelpants, installed per instructions with the original equipment tires. Draggy? I guess, but I documented reduced drag compared to the smaller wheelpants I originally had installed. Sorry I missed out on the offer. In a related matter, the last tire change I changed to the Michelin Airstop tubes and will not go back. Since this change in May I have not added air. It used to be about every two weeks. Larry Pardue Carlsbad, NM RV-6 N441LP Flying http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 09:32:08 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: [nonspam] Re: RV-List: so much for retreads --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer Larry Pardue wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" > > > >>The tires go to Ed Bundy who was the first to ask less than 5 minutes > > after > >>I posted the offer. Ed apparently has oversized draggy wheel pants that > > can > >>handle these big retreads. A good thing to know if you ever get the > > chance > >>to wager on a race. >> > > > I use retreads and am very happy with them. I have the new Van's pressure > recovery wheelpants, installed per instructions with the original equipment > tires. Draggy? I guess, but I documented reduced drag compared to the > smaller wheelpants I originally had installed. > > Sorry I missed out on the offer. > > In a related matter, the last tire change I changed to the Michelin Airstop > tubes and will not go back. Since this change in May I have not added air. > It used to be about every two weeks. > > Larry Pardue > Carlsbad, NM > > RV-6 N441LP Flying > http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm > I too can testify that they ARE NOT "draggy," Van himself told me that I should see about 6 mph when I installed them. I see a good honest 4 mph and I have not yet installed the lower wheel pant cuff. the last set of tires I bought are Desser retreads and so far I have been very happy with them. Jerry ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 09:36:06 PM PST US From: "aronsond" Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair T2000 SFL Sale --> RV-List message posted by: "aronsond" Garry: Received your check today. Will deposit and send unit tomorrow. You should get in two days. I will let you know tracking No. Thanks, Off to Kosh...... Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Garry LeGare" Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair T2000 SFL Sale > --> RV-List message posted by: Garry LeGare > > Dave, I'll take it if it's still available. > > aronsond wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "aronsond" > > > >Lister: > >I have a new, never opened Microair T2000 SFL for sale. Chiefs wants > >$1415.00 for it. I will sell for 1200. It comes with 1 year warantee from > >supplier (from time aircraft is flying). Going to Ebay in a day or so. > >Dave Aronson > >N504RV RV4 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 09:47:37 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: Metal lock nuts for 5/16 X 18 carb studs --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 7/21/2003 8:59:20 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rickf@cableone.net writes: > Does anyone know of a source for either all metal lock nuts or drilled nuts > with 5/16 X 18 threads for the carb studs on the bottom of the engine. I > would prefer either one to regular nuts with Loctite or jam nuts. McMaster-Carr has them. P/N 91839A127 pkg of 5 is around $10. Contact info is in the Yeller Pages. -GV (RV-6A N1GV 615hrs) ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 11:52:01 PM PST US From: "Meketa" Subject: Re: RV-List: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question) --> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" Hello Yall The AC/DC switch specs. discusion never came to a helpful end. I promised to write no more on the subject, but felt the overwelming desire to get down to the truth on the subject. The problem is that there is no real answer as far as our small 14 volt aircraft are involved. I will not attempt to give any answers one way or another, but the data as I have found it. You can come to your own conclusions 1. The EAA switch article in the April issue of Experimenter. I have not found a copy of the article, but talked to a structural DER who read it and heard enough to have an idea of its content. Basically the author recommended nothing but DC rated switches. I would like a link to or copy of the article if anyone has one. 2. An article on the same subject and possibly the same one as above. http://safetydata.com/switches.htm Some of the data in the article has no real meaning in our application. Points in an coil system have nothing to do with the type of switches used in our aircraft. Also I have my doubts to a fast acting switch contact welding itself together. Has anyone had a set of toggle switch contacts weld together? 3. Another switch article http://www.sbw.org/switches/. How are AC only rated switches on a certified aircraft. Just looking at the original and the FAA certified replacement it is obvious that the load carrying ability of the switches is in question for landing lamps and pitot heat. Nothing to do with ratings, they just look too cheaply built to take any type of heat from the contact or terminals. Notice the mention of Aeroelectric Connection and the quality push-on terminal description. 4.Some data from the Carling Switch web site. http://www.carlingtech.com/products/switches/faq.asp?cat=2#11 Q: What DC current and voltage will an AC rated switch handle? A: The DC current "rule of thumb" holds that the highest amperage rating on the switch should perform satisfactorily up to 30 volts DC. For example, if you have an F Series toggle switch which is rated at 10A 250VAC, 15A 125-250VAC, the DC rating is 15A up to 30VDC This is from the manufacturer that supplies the switches on the certified Piper and Grumman, also the switches sold by Aeroelectric. I have a few doubts to such a crossover, but there it is from the manufacturer. Why do the actual switch specs not show these ratings from them?? The description for several of their switches mentions rated for AC and DC but no DC mentioned in the specs?? 5.Not really related, but mentions DC circuits and the use of high quality switches at the end. http://lists.rnib.org.uk/pipermail/tbtalk/2003-March/000257.html 6.The article by Bob Knuckles on switch ratings http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/swtchrat.pdf A lot of common sense with years of experience. I do not tend to agree with everything he suggests (who cares? I do) , but he does know what he is talking about. I have no personal doubts on the switch info. 7. I talked to an Engineer at Raytheon who designs electrical systems for aircraft STC,s. He had no real answers for my questions, but would have no problem using a name brand, high quality, AC only switch in a DC application with the same ratings at 14 volts DC as the switch is rated for 125 lots AC. He stated that only ring terminals or solder leads to the switch are used by him. 8. I also talked to two DER's. Both electrical engineers. They were less help as they mainly worked on larger commercial aircraft. Both stated they had no problems with the above statement, but had a few issues with lamp and motor loads. They like to see a switch rating at least 5 times the lamp current draw due to the high inrush current to light the lamp and 2 1/2 times the electric motor running draw due to high start up surge currents. This is under ideal conditions and there was the realization that sometimes there is no choice but to run the lower than ideally rated switch as long as it meets the working limit by at least 50%. They both felt that the more expensive AC switches have sufficient contact size and quality to work. There was some discussion concerning contact life and the installation of suppression diodes to help prevent arcing, but no conclusions were made. It seems that there is no ideal answer to the switch question. The actual rating has no true meaning, just that it was tested and passed under some specific conditions. Switch quality should mean something. If it is inexpensive (LIKE 2 DOLLARS) it likely lot well built. If it looks and feels high quality with good AC ratings it is likely fine. In conclusion. Well, I have none. George Meketa RV8, N444TX, 356.8 hours