Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:31 AM - Microair 760 Transceiver (Neil Henderson)
2. 05:56 AM - Re: Microair 760 Transceiver (Pat Perry)
3. 06:39 AM - Re: Microair 760 Transceiver (Bill VonDane)
4. 06:48 AM - Re: SSP (Scott Bilinski)
5. 07:19 AM - Re: SSP (Elsa & Henry)
6. 07:20 AM - Firewall forward kit. (Dana Overall)
7. 07:45 AM - Re: SSP (Rick Galati)
8. 07:46 AM - Re: Firewall forward kit. (Mike Robertson)
9. 08:04 AM - Re: NACA Ducts Installation (Tracy Crook)
10. 08:04 AM - Re: Firewall forward kit. (Jeff Orear)
11. 08:08 AM - starter ring/flywheel (Jeff Orear)
12. 08:17 AM - Re: Firewall forward kit. (Scott Bilinski)
13. 08:47 AM - Re: Microair 760 Transceiver (lucky macy)
14. 09:11 AM - Re: Microair 760 Transceiver (Terry Watson)
15. 09:36 AM - Re: Firewall forward kit. (Neil McLeod)
16. 09:49 AM - Re: Firewall forward kit. (Dan Checkoway)
17. 10:02 AM - Re: Microair 760 Transceiver (lucky macy)
18. 10:28 AM - Van's FAB filter bypass kit (John)
19. 10:34 AM - Re: Microair 760 Transceiver (Rob Prior)
20. 10:36 AM - Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit (lucky macy)
21. 11:03 AM - RE-NACA Ducts (bruno)
22. 11:09 AM - Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit (Jeff Point)
23. 11:37 AM - Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit (Scott Bilinski)
24. 11:44 AM - back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? (rpmiller)
25. 12:07 PM - Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit (Lenleg@aol.com)
26. 12:32 PM - Re: XCOM was Microair 760 Transceiver (Don Mack)
27. 12:48 PM - Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit (Don Mack)
28. 01:17 PM - Re: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question) (kempthornes)
29. 01:47 PM - Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit (Phil Birkelbach)
30. 01:58 PM - Re: Firewall forward kit. (LarryRobertHelming)
31. 02:38 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? (terence.gannon@telus.net)
32. 03:20 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? (Elsa & Henry)
33. 03:22 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? (Curt Hoffman)
34. 03:41 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? (Pat Hatch)
35. 04:01 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, (Scott Bilinski)
36. 04:22 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? (Jim Jewell)
37. 05:19 PM - 0360 sump (RVer273sb@aol.com)
38. 05:43 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, (Gary & Carolyn Zilik)
39. 06:04 PM - Re: Firewall forward kit. (Dan Checkoway)
40. 06:07 PM - Re: back riveting with the long Avery set, good, bad, (Denis Walsh)
41. 07:03 PM - Re: 0360 sump (Mike Stephenson)
42. 07:23 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
43. 07:28 PM - Re: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question) (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
44. 07:46 PM - Re: Back Riveting With Avery set (Bob n' Lu Olds)
45. 08:24 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? (James Jula)
46. 08:41 PM - Pancake Breakfast (Tom Gummo)
47. 08:47 PM - Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, (Charlie Kuss)
48. 10:09 PM - RV-8 Meetings at OSH...new one added on Tuesday (czechsix@juno.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Microair 760 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
Listers
I'm just wiring in a Microair 760 transceiver and am puzzled why I should need
a separate intercom. The unit appears to have an inbuilt intercom, is this not
adequate or am I missing something.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
The biggest issue with the built in intercom is it's manually activated. I
use my intercom on my MicroAir 760 and have an intercom PTT switch on the
pilot's stick separate from the com PTT. I also have an intercom PTT on the
passengers right side (not on the stick).
The only thing I would change would be to add a small toggle to leave the
intercom on for longer conversations. I think this is even suggested in
microair's schematic....
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
Do Not Archive
>From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver
>Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 13:30:30 +0100
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>
>Listers
>
>I'm just wiring in a Microair 760 transceiver and am puzzled why I should
>need a separate intercom. The unit appears to have an inbuilt intercom, is
>this not adequate or am I missing something.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Neil...
The 760 does indeed have a built in intercom, but it is a "hot mic" not a
VOX intercom, and in an RV that would not be good... You would have install
and use a button just to talk on the intercom, or you would be forced to
listen to the ambient sounds of the cockpit all the time...
I have a 760 in my -8A, and I also have a PS Engineering PM3000 Stereo
intercom...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
Subject: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
Listers
I'm just wiring in a Microair 760 transceiver and am puzzled why I should
need a separate intercom. The unit appears to have an inbuilt intercom, is
this not adequate or am I missing something.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Try the wax after painting!! I have been told that they will loosen with
time, how much time I dont know.
At 05:56 PM 7/22/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
>rub some candle wax on the pin....I bet it will help.
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: SSP
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>>
>> The MS20257-3 hinge that ties in the upper and lower cowl on my 6A uses a
>standard .089 SSP. After inserting the pin 3/4 of the way in, the fit gets
>too snug for my liking. I could rework the hinges to make for a looser fit,
>but a much easier way would be to find a hinge pin with a diameter between
>.080-085. Does such an animal exist? If so where?
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Reading the (again) spate of recent posts on getting the cowl hinges to
slide in easily, makes me wonder how many builders are out there that still
have to fit their cowl to their airframe! I contributed a List Post on
11/13/02 on what I did on mine, as pasted below:
>Amazing! I'm sorry for all you guys (Dolls?) that are having trouble with
>your hinges.You obviously haven't read about how to install them like I
did,
>as recorded in the third issue, 1999, of the RVator, pg 7 graciously
>reproduced there by Ken Scott. The secret is to install the rivets AFTER
the
>epoxy has set! Then the hinges are not distorted as when you do it BEFORE.
>The article details how I went about it. Suffice it to say that after the
>riveting, I was able to pull-out (and re-insert) the hinge pins with my
>fingers!
I presume that this post and a follow-up one dated 11/14/02, are in the
archives, but I haven't bothered to look.
Cheers!! ---Henry Hore. CYCC,
Cornwall, Ontario.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Firewall forward kit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I've checked the archives but would like some more up to date opinions. The
firewall forward kit for a fixed pitch (CS crank with a plug) O360 is a
little over 3 grand. Is it a deal? What would you leave out and provide on
your own? Would you order it again looking back?
Trying to figure out the money so I know what to spend at Oshkosh.
Thanks gang.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Another solution is to get an extra hinge pin of the same diameter and file one
end slanted sharp as the point of a chisel then chuck the hinge pin in your drill
and start the pin down the cowl hinges.The point will round out the bends
and cut the hinge loops enough though allow the real hinge pin to be inserted.Worked
for me.Rollie & Rod6A
Many thanks to all who responded. One thing leads to another. The chisel
technique and a little Boelube worked perfectly. I took advantage of the
chiseled end of the pin to drill through the firewall. The pin(s) cannot migrate
aft past the NACA vent(s) and I can now terminate the forward cowl pin
insertion holes with a simple plate. I saw a rather elegant design shaped something
like an elongated and beveled triangle that attached to the cowl with
a flush screw at Oshkosh one year, capturing the pin. Beautifully done. Something
similiar on my part will take care of any chance of the pin migrating forward
into the prop. Again, thanks for all the responses.
Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
---------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall forward kit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Dana,
You don't save any money by buying the direct for the most part. You would
spend pretty mush the same, or more, if you bought everything seperately.
But what it does save is a lot of time and effet tryign to find the parts
and/or have them made. The oil and fuel lines are already made to the right
size. It includes all the control cables, calibrated fittings for fuel,oil,
and manifold pressure. If you have it shipped to you then it also saves on
shipping by getting everything shipped to you in one package, so to speak,
at one time. You can also pick which alternator you want, 35 or 60 amp,
without having to try and find out what car it comes off of and trying to
find it at your local auto parts store. I have installed two of these
firewall forward kits now, on for a fixed pitch and one for a constant
speed, and can recommend it highly. Another nice side note is that if there
is something you find in the kit that you don't want, or need, then Van's
will either exchange it for you or refund the cost of the part (but the
shipping is on you).
Mike Robertson
RV-8A, 6A, and 9A
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Firewall forward kit.
>Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 10:14:24 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>I've checked the archives but would like some more up to date opinions.
>The
>firewall forward kit for a fixed pitch (CS crank with a plug) O360 is a
>little over 3 grand. Is it a deal? What would you leave out and provide
>on
>your own? Would you order it again looking back?
>
>Trying to figure out the money so I know what to spend at Oshkosh.
>
>Thanks gang.
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider/fuselage
>Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: NACA Ducts Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
The "high pressure = no air" comment stumped me too. Talk about
non-obvious results!
But just to muddy the water a bit more, My RV-4 canopy skirt NACA inlet
(for passenger) works like gang busters. My front seat NACA (ala Van's
plans) gets good airflow but it is obviously hotter than OAT air. Thank You
to whoever posted the test results and explained why. My inlets are on the
RIGHT side and my prop rotates LEFT (opposite of Lyc) so your milage may
vary.
Details matter.
Tracy Crook
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
>
> Hi Guys
>
> I don't know about the high and low pressure areas, but I have mine just
> under the cheek extensions and get LOTS of air. A friend I fly with has
one
> on the canopy skirt, gets no air in and lots of noise. Has it plugged
with
> a rag most of the time. In the older 4 plans and manual Vans use to
> indicate that they went on the canopy skirt. Now I think they suggest
under
> the wing. I think it would be very hard to get the air from the wing to a
> vent on the panel. I just have short piece of scat tube and it works
great.
> A second vent under the wing would probably be great for the rear seater.
I
> have no provision for air in the back.
>
> Cheers
>
> Joe Hine
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall forward kit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Dana:
Can't really help you with the firewall forward kit. I too am considering
buying it for my 0320.
The one word of advice I can give you regarding Oshkosh is.....bring
money....lots of it!
Speaking from experience.....
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finsh kit)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Firewall forward kit.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I've checked the archives but would like some more up to date opinions.
The
> firewall forward kit for a fixed pitch (CS crank with a plug) O360 is a
> little over 3 grand. Is it a deal? What would you leave out and provide
on
> your own? Would you order it again looking back?
>
> Trying to figure out the money so I know what to spend at Oshkosh.
>
> Thanks gang.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | starter ring/flywheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
List:
Does anyone know if a starter ring (122 tooth)/flywheel from an 0235-L2C would
fit an O320-E2D?
Thanks
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
Peshtigo, WI
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall forward kit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Basically just completed 100% of the FWF. (Sure is a lot of time invested
there) My 2 cents is if you have never built/worked on a plane/engine
before and you dont know exactly what you need, by the FWF kit, it will
save a lot of time. You can always send back what you dont want/need.
At 10:14 AM 7/23/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>I've checked the archives but would like some more up to date opinions. The
>firewall forward kit for a fixed pitch (CS crank with a plug) O360 is a
>little over 3 grand. Is it a deal? What would you leave out and provide on
>your own? Would you order it again looking back?
>
>Trying to figure out the money so I know what to spend at Oshkosh.
>
>Thanks gang.
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider/fuselage
>Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
For those yet to order their radio and want something like the Microair 760,
I've been looking at a seemingly similar but *better*
functional/performaning radio called the XCOM 760 (they provide a direct
comparison chart against the Microair model as well as others). I
specifically asked them about their intercom function and they said the
built in intercom function was identical to their standalone intercom they
sell which I'll send links to (sounds too good to be true):
http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/comparison/comparison.html
http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/intercom/intercom.html
http://www.mcp.com.au/xcom760/features/features.html
lucky
>From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver
>Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 07:32:42 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
>Neil...
>
>The 760 does indeed have a built in intercom, but it is a "hot mic" not a
>VOX intercom, and in an RV that would not be good... You would have
>install
>and use a button just to talk on the intercom, or you would be forced to
>listen to the ambient sounds of the cockpit all the time...
>
>I have a 760 in my -8A, and I also have a PS Engineering PM3000 Stereo
>intercom...
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A
>www.vondane.com
>www.creativair.com
>www.epanelbuilder.com
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>
>Listers
>
>I'm just wiring in a Microair 760 transceiver and am puzzled why I should
>need a separate intercom. The unit appears to have an inbuilt intercom, is
>this not adequate or am I missing something.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9-A Aylesbury UK
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Microair 760 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Lucky,
I have been watching that XCOM radio for a year or more, but I don't think
it is approved or shipping yet. Make my day and tell me I'm wrong.
Terry
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
For those yet to order their radio and want something like the Microair 760,
I've been looking at a seemingly similar but *better*
functional/performaning radio called the XCOM 760 (they provide a direct
comparison chart against the Microair model as well as others). I
specifically asked them about their intercom function and they said the
built in intercom function was identical to their standalone intercom they
sell which I'll send links to (sounds too good to be true):
Message 15
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| Subject: | Firewall forward kit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
I agree it is a good deal, especially if you are doing an installation
close to Van's stock configuration.
Neil McLeod
7 QB FWF and finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Bilinski
Subject: Re: RV-List: Firewall forward kit.
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Basically just completed 100% of the FWF. (Sure is a lot of time
invested
there) My 2 cents is if you have never built/worked on a plane/engine
before and you dont know exactly what you need, by the FWF kit, it will
save a lot of time. You can always send back what you dont want/need.
At 10:14 AM 7/23/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>I've checked the archives but would like some more up to date opinions.
The
>firewall forward kit for a fixed pitch (CS crank with a plug) O360 is a
>little over 3 grand. Is it a deal? What would you leave out and
provide on
>your own? Would you order it again looking back?
>
>Trying to figure out the money so I know what to spend at Oshkosh.
>
>Thanks gang.
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider/fuselage
>Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall forward kit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Half the stuff in the fwf kit I found to be useless or inapplicable. The
deeper I go, the more stuff I find that isn't gonna fly.
That's *mostly* because I'm straying from stock in several areas. If you go
completely stock, you should be able to use everything and everything should
work.
Also, depending on where you have your engine done, you may want to ask your
engine builder (if it's not you) what fittings and hoses come with the
engine. AeroSport Power built my IO-360-A1B6, and I was pleasantly
surprised to see 99% of the fittings and hoses were already installed. That
made a fair bit of the fwf kit a waste...the steel fittings Bart uses appear
to be *much* higher quality than the standard AN fittings anyway.
20-20 hindsight for me. Next time I'd just do it myself and piece it
together. It's not as intimidating having gone through it once. But for
the first time, regardless of what you've got, I think it's easiest to have
it all right there, even if a few things aren't going to work.
I think the best advice I can give you is that you should have your engine
on-hand when you receive your fwf kit. That way you can really use that
30-day return period to its extent...and you'll have the opportunity to
return and recoup some cash on the crap you don't need.
In my case, my fwf was sitting around for a couple of months, and I had no
idea what I didn't need, what wouldn't work, etc.
Word from the wise...if you're going with AFP injection on a forward-facing
sump on a wide-deck engine (IO-360-A1B6), you've got your work cut out for
you...and a lot of the fwf kit simply does not apply.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Firewall forward kit.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I've checked the archives but would like some more up to date opinions.
The
> firewall forward kit for a fixed pitch (CS crank with a plug) O360 is a
> little over 3 grand. Is it a deal? What would you leave out and provide
on
> your own? Would you order it again looking back?
>
> Trying to figure out the money so I know what to spend at Oshkosh.
>
> Thanks gang.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Microair 760 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
hah, i don't know! :-) their emails say they are busy making product so I
assumed that mean immediately available (they know i'm a rv-8 builder in the
U.S.).
Since I'm at least a year away from having to order (finishing wing, QB fuse
to arrive next month) it didn't occur to me to ask such a question. Plus,
I'm pretty sure there's someone on the list who's got personal experience
with this unit and has contributed before. Could be an Aussie though or a
company rep masquerading as a .... ;-)
>From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver
>Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 09:10:18 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
>Lucky,
>
>I have been watching that XCOM radio for a year or more, but I don't think
>it is approved or shipping yet. Make my day and tell me I'm wrong.
>
>Terry
>
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of lucky macy
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair 760 Transceiver
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>For those yet to order their radio and want something like the Microair
>760,
>I've been looking at a seemingly similar but *better*
>functional/performaning radio called the XCOM 760 (they provide a direct
>comparison chart against the Microair model as well as others). I
>specifically asked them about their intercom function and they said the
>built in intercom function was identical to their standalone intercom they
>sell which I'll send links to (sounds too good to be true):
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Van's FAB filter bypass kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his
web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web
site that gave details. Anybody have info?
John
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Microair 760 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
lucky macy wrote:
> For those yet to order their radio and want something like the Microair 760,
> I've been looking at a seemingly similar but *better*
> functional/performaning radio called the XCOM 760 (they provide a direct
> comparison chart against the Microair model as well as others).
From the XCom website:
"All things going well, the Intercom will ship by the end of February
and the XCOM VHF Radio will ship by the end of May, this is of course
subject to any last minute delays which we hope dont eventuate."
No updates on the website to indicate that they're shipping, so i'd
guess they aren't. I'd be happy to see someone refute that, though. It
looks like a great radio.
-Rob P
rv7 "at" b4.ca
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
you call 'em up and speak to them personally and tell them which engine you
have and they will send you one at no cost other than shipping.
>From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
>Date: Wed, 23 Jul 2003 11:27:26 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his
>web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web
>site that gave details. Anybody have info?
>
>John
>
>
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
OK, this one has really got me scooped. Assuming you want air to
come in through the duct, wouldn't you want it in a high pressure
location?
Now, if you want to use the duct as an air exhaust, I agree a low
pressure area makes sense.
What am I missing?
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
-----------------------------------------------
Hello Kevin
Ok Kevin,you got me on that one,I must have been sleeping during
that part of the engineering course LOL.
Bruno
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I just installed this last night on my air box. It consists of a steel
plate which functions as a "trap door" on the bottom of the air box.
The door covers up a cutout which you make in the bottom of the box,
and it is held closed by a small magnet. A piece of airseal fabric is
used as a hinge. When the filter becomes clogged, the suction in the
air box overcomes the magnet and the door opens, allowing air to enter
from inside the cowl and bypass the filter. I am a little concerned
about the sealing of the door to the box, but other than that it looks
like a good system. Took about an hour to install (not including
getting the air box off the plane.)
Jeff Point
RV-6 panel and wiring
Milwaukee WI
John wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
>Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his
>web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web
>site that gave details. Anybody have info?
>
>John
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
The door can be made to seal with some silicone or fuel tank sealant. Im
sure you know the drill, mask off one part apply the sealant close the door
and let cure. Remove tape and you have a perfect custom fit. This will also
prevent the door from rattling due to vibration.
At 01:17 PM 7/23/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>I just installed this last night on my air box. It consists of a steel
>plate which functions as a "trap door" on the bottom of the air box.
> The door covers up a cutout which you make in the bottom of the box,
>and it is held closed by a small magnet. A piece of airseal fabric is
>used as a hinge. When the filter becomes clogged, the suction in the
>air box overcomes the magnet and the door opens, allowing air to enter
>from inside the cowl and bypass the filter. I am a little concerned
>about the sealing of the door to the box, but other than that it looks
>like a good system. Took about an hour to install (not including
>getting the air box off the plane.)
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6 panel and wiring
>Milwaukee WI
>
>John wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>>
>>Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his
>>web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web
>>site that gave details. Anybody have info?
>>
>>John
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around
rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and
-3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is always
off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what
I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does
someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both hands
on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good
results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his
web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web
site that gave details. Anybody have info?
John
I have the kit .... haven't put it on yet. It came out because of the inlet
getting clogged with snow thus causing engine stoppage.
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
106 hours !! Race # 87
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | RE: XCOM was Microair 760 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I emailed them about a month ago. They were still waiting for FCC approval.
There are supposed to be at OSH next week.
Don
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I have been watching that XCOM radio for a year or more, but I don't think
it is approved or shipping yet. Make my day and tell me I'm wrong.
Do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Van's FAB filter bypass kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I have three pictures of the installation at
http://www.dmack.net/map_engine7.htm
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on his
web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web
site that gave details. Anybody have info?
John
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question) |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 01:48 AM 7/23/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Meketa" <acgm@gvtc.com>
>
>The AC/DC switch specs. discusion never came to a helpful end.
Search the archive for
rate-of-rise
you get one really great hit.
Basically, many switches are marked for only one voltage and type such
as 250VAC They are acceptable for millions of other voltages but just
not marked due to lack of space.
Archive article says that Microswitch rated certain switches for a
resistive load as :
115 VAC - 15A but for 115 VDC - 0.75A !! However if the voltage is less
such as 28 VDC then rate at 20A! !
At 12VDC I would conclude even greater rating.
Good article by a great guru.
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Van's FAB filter bypass kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I have the one for the AFP fuel injection vertical mount FAB. I'ts a rubber
hinge a couple of pieces of galvanized steel and a REALLY strong magnet. It
looks like it will be really simple and there are no bolts, pins or other
type stuff that could get loose and go into the engine.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Van's FAB filter bypass kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> Does anyone have info on the air filter bypass kit that Van mentions on
his
> web site? Without bothering them by phone I didn't see anything on his web
> site that gave details. Anybody have info?
>
> John
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Firewall forward kit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
RE: Firewall Forward Kit
Dana, I have been gathering some info on the FWF and have developed the
following list of possible things to eliminate:
GAS-4 Gascolator and its doubler VA-161 (there has been discussion on the
list about this device is ineffective and not needed and I tend to agree
seeing how it fits into the overall fuel line system)
60A Alternator w/boss mnt. Instead I want the ES ALT 35A kit and an
external voltage regulator. The voltage regulator is LR3C-14 from B&C that
comes bundled with their over voltage monitor.
FAB-360. For some reason I received this with the finish kit.
Wiring harness WH 6/7/9 kit. I think I'll get this type stuff from B&C and
John Stark
PC 680 Install K Battery Mount. I think I will build my own like Dan
Checkaway did ( or I think he did ) I may use dual Panasonic LC-RD1217P
batteries instead of the PC 680.
Larry in Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360
Working on Finish Kit
Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But ..... is terribly
unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.
..Author unknown
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Firewall forward kit.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> I've checked the archives but would like some more up to date opinions.
The
> firewall forward kit for a fixed pitch (CS crank with a plug) O360 is a
> little over 3 grand. Is it a deal? What would you leave out and provide
on
> your own? Would you order it again looking back?
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? |
--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
RP (?) --
This is one of these issues that there is DEFINITELY two schools of thought;
those that figure that you are completely insane ;-) NOT to backrivet the top
skin first using the backrivet set, and those that figure that it just doesn't
make that much of a difference. I found that with the backrivet set that the
skin MIGHT be a little smoother (and it might not), but the flange was
definitely not as tight against the skin as compared to rivets set in the
conventional way. And it's pretty easy to have the set get away from you and
prang the flange with the backrivet set. After a couple of ribs with the
backrivet set, I abandoned it in favour of conventional set and bucking bar,
and I'm very happy with the results.
Just to prove my credentials as a contrarian, ;-), I also put the bottom skin
on first...I'm also happy with the way that worked out as well, particularly
when it comes to the aft spar details that you have to attend to after the
first skin is on, but before the second one.
Hope this helps...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
Quoting rpmiller <rpmiller@1usa.net>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
> I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting
> around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples
> and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is
> always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior
> results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back
> riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips?
> I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also
> if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back
riveting around rib flanges. I have been >practicing on 2 pieces of .025
with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The
shop
>head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely
inferior results to what I get with a bucking >bar or a regular, (straight,)
back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any
tips? >I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet.
Also if you didn't have good results I'd like >to hear from you to. thanks
I had great results with the Avery long set. Avery had included a warning
slip of paper saying something to the effect that some builders might not
get satisfactory results, etc, etc. One thing did concern me though: The
recess in the end of the bar (on mine) was .042" deep and to my thinking
that is too close to the rivet 1/2 diameter so I ground down and polished
the rim side that rests opposite to the rib flange to .025" to make sure
that there would not be any contact to the flange. Also I believe that my
rivet gun, which is a Swedish relic of WW2 aircraft building here in Canada,
which had a 10mm bore (which I honed to take the standard .403" Dia sets),
was a major contributor to good result. It is probably a 2X gun and I
increased the drive pressure to provide a firmer impact in this application,
considering the mass of that long set.
Cheers!!---Henry Hore
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
I did both my wings using the back riveter and found the same thing. I tried
very hard to get consistent shop heads but many of them were slightly
offset. I think I must have been a little intimidated because we looked at
the finished wings it was suggested I go back and hit the rivets a little
more. I plan to do that but will just use a regular bucking bar and set to
finish them off. In hindsight, I think I would only use the back riveter
where necessary and use a standard set for most of my wing.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
Piper Cherokee N5320W
1974 TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad,
indifferent?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
> I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back
riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025
with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The
shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely
inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,)
back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any
tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet.
Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
I didn't have the cleating problem but did note that the set would "bottom
out", so what I did was reduce the depth of the counterbore slightly with
the sanding disk and 3M wheel. You just need a slight counterbore to
prevent slipping off the rivet. I would suggest starting with some very
light taps before opeing the trigger all the way and just make sure the set
is perpendicular to the surface being rivited. The longer set makes this a
little more awkward. One thing for sure, you will love the way the skins
look when you are done--no dimples.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad,
indifferent?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
> I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back
riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025
with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The
shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely
inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,)
back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any
tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet.
Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, |
indifferent?
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
My top skins look almost as good as quality back riveted skins. I think the
secret is to set the rivet in about 1 second, instead of hammering away on
it for 2 or 3.
At 03:37 PM 7/23/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
>
>RP (?) --
>
>This is one of these issues that there is DEFINITELY two schools of thought;
>those that figure that you are completely insane ;-) NOT to backrivet the top
>skin first using the backrivet set, and those that figure that it just
doesn't
>make that much of a difference. I found that with the backrivet set that the
>skin MIGHT be a little smoother (and it might not), but the flange was
>definitely not as tight against the skin as compared to rivets set in the
>conventional way. And it's pretty easy to have the set get away from you and
>prang the flange with the backrivet set. After a couple of ribs with the
>backrivet set, I abandoned it in favour of conventional set and bucking bar,
>and I'm very happy with the results.
>
>Just to prove my credentials as a contrarian, ;-), I also put the bottom skin
>on first...I'm also happy with the way that worked out as well, particularly
>when it comes to the aft spar details that you have to attend to after the
>first skin is on, but before the second one.
>
>Hope this helps...
>
>Terry in Calgary
>RV-6 S/N 24414
>"Wings"
>
>Quoting rpmiller <rpmiller@1usa.net>:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>>
>> I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting
>> around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples
>> and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is
>> always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior
>> results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back
>> riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any
tips?
>> I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also
>> if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
My wife and I had similar results. After adding an additional bend further
up the shank to create an offset so as to get a straighter shot at the rivet
heads, Only a little better results where achieved.
The thing sits abandoned on the rack. some day I'll make something usefull
out of it.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad,
indifferent?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
> I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back
riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025
with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The
shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely
inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,)
back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any
tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet.
Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
>
>
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
List members,
I am still looking for a 0360 sump, bottom carb
mount. Not serviceable or used.
Stewart RV-4
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, |
indifferent?
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Ditto to Jim's story. I got one for cheap if any body needs one.
GZ
Jim Jewell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>My wife and I had similar results. After adding an additional bend further
>up the shank to create an offset so as to get a straighter shot at the rivet
>heads, Only a little better results where achieved.
>The thing sits abandoned on the rack. some day I'll make something usefull
>out of it.
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad,
>indifferent?
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>>
>>I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back
>>
>>
>riveting around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025
>with dimples and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The
>shop head is always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely
>inferior results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,)
>back riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any
>tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet.
>Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall forward kit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> PC 680 Install K Battery Mount. I think I will build my own like Dan
> Checkaway did ( or I think he did ) I may use dual Panasonic LC-RD1217P
> batteries instead of the PC 680.
I bought the PC680 install kit from Van's. It's pricy, but worth it for the
convenience in my opinion.
I was just over at Spruce earlier today and they sell the PC680 complete
with the steel box. If you could come up with just the powder coated
brackets that Van's gives you in the kit, you'd be set. But then again,
Spruce's price on the battery itself sucks (last time I checked).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long Avery set, good, bad, |
indifferent?
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
On 7/23/03 12:36 PM, "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
> I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting
> around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples
> and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is
> always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results
> to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set.
> Does someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both
> hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have
> good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
>
>
As others have pointed out, there is a bit more technique involved in using
the angled back rivet set. I definitely had the problems you described and
had better results with the conventional method. My reason for doing the
back rivet method was it is more tolerant of amateur and nervous helpers!
Which is what a lot of us must work with when using our loved ones for
assistants.
Years ago when I started an old timer pointed to the big mushroom thing with
a rubber skirt and said "You'll get your best rivets with this." He was
right.
My back riveting mostly looked A LITTLE flatter. And the dings were all on
the Non showing side. I beat the hell out of some rib flanges, and had some
ugly shop heads, but the outside always looked great. Both sides of the
rivet are important so I lean toward the bucking bar and the big swivel
mushroom with the rubber skirt. This is what I always wind up doing when I
go help someone.
Sooo, Will I use the long crooked thingy on my next plane? Sure!
Getting a well qualified assistant to run the bucking bar or the gun is not
always easy or even practical.
What I am saying is very easy to train almost anyone to hold the big weight
against the skin, and lean in to it while you shoot from the other side.
Many times it is worth the bother, and may save your marriage, since you
will holler at your wife less often.
Message 41
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Stephenson" <mike@proclaimweb.com>
Stewart, someone is trying to sell one on ebay. They have listed it twice
and the auction ended without a sale. You might watch to see if it is put
back up.
Mike Stephenson
RV-6A
> List members,
> I am still looking for a 0360 sump, bottom carb
> mount. Not serviceable or used.
> Stewart RV-4
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? |
--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
RP,
I've found that I get better results with angled sets (Long & Short) if I use
a bee hive set retainer and wrap duct tape around both to reduce it's
tendency to rotate while riveting.
Hal Benjamin
RV-4, Skinning Fuselage
Long Island, NY
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: AC rated switches for DC (was:Electrical question) |
--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
In a message dated 7/23/2003 4:29:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
> Search the archive for
> rate-of-rise
> you get one really great hit.
>
Whatever you do don't try this search on the internet!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Back Riveting With Avery set |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks@aol.com>
I used the back rivet set on my bottom wing skins with no problem.
I back riveted almost all of my fuselage skins with excellent results. My wife
held a 2" X 2" X 4" steel bar on the outside.
I put masking tape on the shank of the rivet set and a big red line down to the
inside of the bend ; this enabled me to keep the set properly aligned.
Close quarters in the RV-4 fuselage for a 200 pounder !
I back riveted the fuselage skins on my neighbors RV-6A , also with good results.
I love the Avery back rivet set. It pushes everything against a flat surface and
with a good heavy flat bar results are very good.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 45
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| Subject: | back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, indifferent? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James Jula" <jmjula@comcast.net>
I just purchased a 12" back rivet set from Cleavand while at Arlington. It
does not have an offset, but it does have a plastic retainer with spring
similar to the shorter versions. I have yet to use it on the wing, but it
worked great on practice pieces, and made the aft rivets on the ailerons
stiffeners much easier to set.
James
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of rpmiller
Subject: RV-List: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad,
indifferent?
--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting
around rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples
and -3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is
always off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior
results to what I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back
riveting set. Does someone who has used this set successfully have any
tips? I'm using both hands on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet.
Also if you didn't have good results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
Message 46
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"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>, <SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Pancake Breakfast |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
SoCal Rvers,
Looking for the best place to fly and eat breakfast on August 9th.
Come on up to Apple Valley and ...
**********************************************
EAA Chapter 768's Pancake Breakfast
Where: Apple Valley Airport (APV)
When: August 9, 2003
Time: Starts 7:30-8:00 AM
Ends 10:00 AM (or when you stop eating)
Location: Picnic Tables - East of Terminal Building
Donation: $3.00 Recommended
Menu: Pancakes, Sausages, Orange Juice, and Coffee
Fly up to the beautiful high desert and have breakfast with EAA Chapter
768, "Apple Corp." Show off your plane and enjoy the camaraderie of some
"Plane People." Contact Tom Gummo at 760-242-2669 or
email: t.gummo@verizon.net
********************************************************
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
President EAA Chapter 768
Pilot - Harmon Rocket II - N561FS - 140 hours - 260 bouncing landings
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: back riveting with the long avery set, good, bad, |
indifferent?
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
RP,
When using a set which has either a single or even a double offset, you may need
to keep the face of the set at some slight angle to the rivet tail. By this,
I mean that you will not hold it perpendicular to the rivet. Hold the set so
that it will slightly angle the rivet away from the direction (usually towards
the web of the rib) that your rivet heads have been moving.
Personally, I've found that the use of a "C" style back riveting set is much better
and easier to use, than the Avery long back riveting set. These C style
sets will also get in much tighter spaces than the Avery tool.
Charlie Kuss
PS I can send you a photo and more info if you are interested in this style of
tool
>--> RV-List message posted by: "rpmiller" <rpmiller@1usa.net>
>
>I bought one of those long slightly angled back rivet sets for back riveting around
rib flanges. I have been practicing on 2 pieces of .025 with dimples and
-3.5 rivets. My results so far have been mediocre. The shop head is always
off to one side, not a full blown cleat but definitely inferior results to what
I get with a bucking bar or a regular, (straight,) back riveting set. Does
someone who has used this set successfully have any tips? I'm using both hands
on the gun and set, I'm visuallizing the rivet. Also if you didn't have good
results I'd like to hear from you to. thanks
Message 48
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| Subject: | RV-8 Meetings at OSH...new one added on Tuesday |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
Last I heard there were plans for informal RV-8 builder/pilot
get-togethers next to Theater in the Woods at OSH like we've had in years
past, this year on Thurs and Sat at 9 am. I'll only be there the first
half of the week departing Wed, so I'd like to add another meeting on
Tues at 9 am, same place. If anybody wants to come hang out for a while,
I'll be there. I know Jerry Esquenazi and Alan Kritzman will be around,
not sure who else. It would be cool to see some of you again and meet
some folks that I haven't run into before.
Everybody have a safe trip and SEE YOU AT OSHKOSH 2003! Yeeehaaaaw!
It's gonna be a blast!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...
do not archive
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