Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:13 AM - Re: RV-7 Tail Spring Attachment Question (Dana Overall)
2. 04:21 AM - Re: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8? (Dana Overall)
3. 04:32 AM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch (Jerry Springer)
4. 04:46 AM - UPSAT Buyout by Garmin (Art Glaser)
5. 05:53 AM - Re: STD-1211 (Rick Galati)
6. 06:40 AM - Re: Re: STD-1211 (Ed Bundy)
7. 07:34 AM - Re: Good Battery Prices--PC-680 $62.55, RG25XC $95.98 (Sam Buchanan)
8. 08:03 AM - Re: Re: STD-1211 (Elsa & Henry)
9. 08:22 AM - Spark Plugs (Lenleg@aol.com)
10. 08:56 AM - Re: Spark Plugs (Jim Cimino)
11. 09:05 AM - Re: Spark Plugs (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
12. 09:16 AM - Re: crankshaft oil plugs - was Re: STD-1211 (kempthornes)
13. 09:18 AM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch (kempthornes)
14. 09:33 AM - Re: Spark Plugs (Bill VonDane)
15. 10:38 AM - Big Avionics Merger ()
16. 10:39 AM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch (czechsix@juno.com)
17. 11:50 AM - Marvel Schebler (Bill VonDane)
18. 12:13 PM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch (RV_8 Pilot)
19. 12:26 PM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch (RV3)
20. 01:23 PM - Com/Nav Antenna Connectors (Roger Evenson)
21. 01:32 PM - Re: EFIS-D10 Battery Update (Dan Checkoway)
22. 02:48 PM - Re: EFIS-D10 Battery Update (Dan Checkoway)
23. 02:55 PM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch (Brian Denk)
24. 02:55 PM - Re: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors (Dan Checkoway)
25. 03:52 PM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch (Jerry Springer)
26. 04:11 PM - Re: crankshaft oil plugs - was Re: STD-1211 (Eustace Bowhay)
27. 05:11 PM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch ()
28. 05:58 PM - Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch (Jerry Springer)
29. 06:02 PM - Inverted Diesel Test Run (Bill Dube)
30. 07:41 PM - Re: Marvel Schebler (DWENSING@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Tail Spring Attachment Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dave, like everyone else said pilot drill a hole then unibit it to fit your
socket head.
One thing though, pilot drill this and then Unibit with the bulkhead in
place so you Unibit the flange of the bulkhead also. I bolted the bulkhead
in and pilot drilled it with a 12" #30.
Don't worry, I didn't see it in the plans anywhere either:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming O-320 in RV-8? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Alan Kritzman's beautiful O-320 powered yellow 8 is sitting in my hangar as
we speak. He is on his way to Kitty Hawk from Iowa. His bird, with his
Oshkosh wash job, needed a T hangar to sleep in so the Bonanza got relagated
outside for the night:-)
You can get hold of him at alkritzm@rockwellcollins.com after Oshkosh is
over.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
RV3 wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
>>They have a slight advantage
>>and are a little bit more fuel efficient at higher altitude.
>>
>>Jerry
>>
>
> ==========================================
>
> Not what I've been told compared to an OPTIMIZED fixed pitch prop.
>
>
> Do not archive.
>
True if the FP prop is optimized for high altitude but then you compromise
takeoff and climb performance.
Jerry
Message 4
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| Subject: | UPSAT Buyout by Garmin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Art Glaser <airplane@megsinet.net>
I thought this might be of interest to the group.
I saw this in three different places.
Art Glaser
http://avionicswest.com/archive/garminupsatbuy.htm#2003
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
The FRONT plug stays for fixed pitch. You remove it for a constant speed
and place another plug at the rear of the front main bearing cavity.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Cy,
Your advice seems to be in conflict with Lycoming Service Instruction 1435. I
say SEEMS because there may be some ambiguity. According to SI 1435, to configure
for fixed pitch operation, the front expansion plug must be removed, and
the seal located a few inches aft must be pierced or on some engines, a 1102 pipe
plug removed. Then the front expansion plug is replaced with an STD-1211.
At least, this is how I interpret SI 1435.
I don't usually cut and paste another person's post, but we are the RV community
and lots of expensive new engines are being shipped. This issue is simply to
important to gloss over. Read below.
Rick: I think there is room for discussion here. I also have a new Lycoming 0-320
D1A. The ENGINE INSTALLATION CHECK LIST says and I quote: "IMPORTANT DOCUMENT.
1)Drain the preservative oil, 2)pre-oil the engine, 3)The crankshaft expansion
plug: If the engine installation requires a variable pitch propeller, you
must remove the expansion plug from the front of the crankshaft prior to installing
the propeller. then it says: IF THE INSTALLATION REQUIRES A FIXED PITCH
PROPELLOR, THE PLUG SHOULD STAY IN PLACE." It seems to be in direct conflict
with service instruction 1435. I called Lycoming tech. support. He said leave
the plug in place, your engine is set up for a fixed pitch propellor. He said
this after looking up something on his notes and I think he confirmed with someone
else. I am still not confident of what to do. I am 6 to 8 weeks away from
hanging my engine, so I thought I would check this group and maybe even call
Lycoming back and see if I get the same answer. If you want
the BRAND NEW check list that they sent me, email me your fax or address and I
will send it to you. Has anyone else noticed this conflict in the instructions
or am I missing something. Jack RV9A N489JE
Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
---------------------------------
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@velocitus.net>
See my post from yesterday. I've been there. For a fixed pitch
installation you can technically run the engine as-is, but you will
eventually blow the front plug out and lose all of your oil at a most
inconvenient time. Is there a convenient time?
The engine is shipped the way it is for a C/S installation. The front plug
is just there to keep foreign matter out during shipping and installation.
If you want to use it for F/P operation you MUST remove the front plug,
pierce the back plug and reinstall a new front plug. Then remove the
high-pressure oil line and put a cover plate on the back of the engine.
If you don't do the above, the high pressure oil from the oil line will
sooner or later blow out the front seal, as it's not designed to resist any
pressure.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
RV6A 600 hours
> Rick: I think there is room for discussion here. I also have a
> new Lycoming 0-320 D1A. The ENGINE INSTALLATION CHECK LIST says
> and I quote: "IMPORTANT DOCUMENT. 1)Drain the preservative oil,
> 2)pre-oil the engine, 3)The crankshaft expansion plug: If the
> engine installation requires a variable pitch propeller, you
> must remove the expansion plug from the front of the crankshaft
> prior to installing the propeller. then it says: IF THE
> INSTALLATION REQUIRES A FIXED PITCH PROPELLOR, THE PLUG SHOULD
> STAY IN PLACE." It seems to be in direct conflict with service
> instruction 1435. I called Lycoming tech. support. He said leave
> the plug in place, your engine is set up for a fixed pitch
> propellor. He said this after looking up something on his notes
> and I think he confirmed with someone else. I am still not
> confident of what to do. I am 6 to 8 weeks away from hanging my
> engine, so I thought I would check this group and maybe even call
> Lycoming back and see if I get the same answer. If!
> you want
> the BRAND NEW check list that they sent me, email me your fax or
> address and I will send it to you. Has anyone else noticed this
> conflict in the instructions or am I missing something. Jack RV9A N489JE
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Good Battery Prices--PC-680 $62.55, RG25XC $95.98 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Just a word to the wise...especially since you live in CA...
> Batteries4Everything charges sales tax and ships via UPS.
>
> You can order the PC680 from SunnBattery -- http://www.sunnbattery.com --
> for $74.59. Yes, it's $12 more, but you won't pay sales tax, and the
> shipping is a flat $5.50 for Priority Mail! When you get done with all the
> tax and shipping from Batteries4Everything, it's a lot cheaper from
> SunnBattery.
>
> http://www.sunnbattery.com/item.jhtml?UCIDs=553828%7C1209500&PRID=1292858
>
> Just wanted to pass this on...
Here is a quote from Dan's excellent web site:
"For what it's worth, I did consider going with a Panasonic P174-ND
(17ah) or P231-ND (20ah) from Digi-Key. Those suckers are about half the
cost and basically the same form factor. The problem is that the form
factor isn't perfectly identical...very slightly different dimensions
and different terminals, from what I hear. And a bigger issue (for me)
is that the internal resistance of those batteries is higher (12 and 11
milliohms respectively) than the PC680 (7 milliohms). While a P174-ND
would make a good "bench" battery, it's not what I want in my plane.
Food for thought in case you're considering these."
Here is more food for thought. I rolled the dice on the Panasonic
battery a year ago when I redid the battery installation in my RV-6:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/battery.htm
I now have a year of service on the el cheapo battery and it continues
to work splendidly. I need to qualify this report by stating that my
plane rarely experiences cold-soaked starts since it is hangared and
warmed with an engine heater. Consequently, I cannot state how the
battery would tolerate really cold weather.
But, if you don't routinely start your plane at freezing or below temps
(and if you do it might be a good idea to consider preheating, so this
may be a moot point since the small batteries are usually installed
forward of the firewall) the cheapo batteries are a good value in my
opinion. I intend to run this one another year just to see how it holds
up, then will probably replace it with a similar battery that is
available locally for even less money. Since sealed batteries are now
available at little more cost than an oil filter or spark plug, it is
now practical to replace the things at every annual so we always have a
fresh battery on board.
Sam Buchanan
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
The book "Tony Bingelis On Engines", page 40, Figure 2 shows an illustration
of the plug attention and described in detail on page 42. That book has a
lot of good tips for someone who is installing an engine and I believe is a
"Must Have" for those doing it.
Cheers----Henry Hore
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
List:
How often should you service spark plugs ... inspect, clean, re-gap, replace?
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
106 hours !! Race # 87
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Your due!
Jim
James Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
100+ Hours
570-842-4057
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plugs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> List:
>
> How often should you service spark plugs ... inspect, clean, re-gap,
replace?
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 106 hours !! Race # 87
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
I inspect, clean, and regap with every annual. I replace either when I
detect a problem or when the center electrode wears to more than 50% of its
original round shape. In other words, when it begins to look like a
football.
Andy
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plugs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> List:
>
> How often should you service spark plugs ... inspect, clean, re-gap,
replace?
>
> Len Leggette RV-8A
> N901LL
> Greensboro, N.C.
> 106 hours !! Race # 87
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:crankshaft oil plugs - was Re: STD-1211 |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Y'all,
This is pretty important bit of information for it to be all bumbled
up. Bumbled mostly by Lycoming! What a stupid design flaw.
I don't remember a back of the crankshaft plug, I can't even recall how one
gets to the back of the crankshaft. (My recall of everything is
deteriorating, however!) I do remember removing the oil line and plugging
the holes.
If it has run 110 hours, is all okay? Ya got me worrying.
Off to Oshkosh now....
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
How about use in aerobatics?
hal
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I have a cleaner/tester readily available to me so I do it at each oil
change...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - 115 hrs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Spark Plugs
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
List:
How often should you service spark plugs ... inspect, clean, re-gap,
replace?
Len Leggette RV-8A
N901LL
Greensboro, N.C.
106 hours !! Race # 87
Message 15
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| Subject: | Big Avionics Merger |
--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Just saw on the EAA Hot Line that Garmin purchased UPS Technologies. I just start
to wonder if this is a good thing. On the positive side a merger of technology
to our benefit. On the negative side one less company to compete with. Could
this mean higher prices??
Just when I'm shopping for avionics!@!
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Jerry,
Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite. I thought
that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in that they can be run
full throttle without overspeeding the engine, whereas most F.P. cruise props
have to be up around 10K' (give or take depending on the pitch) before you can
run them wide open. And my understanding was that a F.P. prop (at least the
Sensenich) is actually a bit *more* efficient at cruise altitude than a C.S.
prop because the blade pitch distribution is more optimized for cruise vs. the
C.S. which is a compromise for all speeds (note the term "pitch distribution"
here, NOT to be confused with the fact that the C.S. prop still realizes better
*overall* performance due to it's ability to adjust the entire blade for optimization
at any speed/rpm).
I know Russell Duffy down in Florida found that his Sensenich equipped RV-8 would
outrun his buddy's Hartzell-equipped RV-8 at cruise altitude--once he could
open the throttle all the way--but in every other area (low altitudes and climb
performance) the C.S. prop would outperform the Sensenich by a considerable
margin...
FWIW.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
<snip>
In low level cruise where most of us fly in RVs [C.S. props] have absolutely no
advantage. They have a slight advantage and are a little bit more fuel efficient
at higher altitude.
Jerry
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 17
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"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone wanting to understand the design and operation of the carburetor
would probably enjoy this well written article. I found out about if from a
post on the canard email list...
http://www.kellyaerospace.com/articles/Accessory_AMT.pdf
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - 115 hours
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
CS prop out performs fixed pitch most of the time - high, low, fast, slow.
Also, 150/160-hp -8's do just fine.
Bryan Jones -8, 530 hrs, 160-hp, CS
Pearland, Texas
>Jerry,
>
>Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite. I
>thought that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in that they
>can be run full throttle without overspeeding the engine, whereas most F.P.
>cruise props have to be up around 10K' (give or take depending on the
>pitch) >From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
>
><snip>
>
>In low level cruise where most of us fly in RVs [C.S. props] have
>absolutely no advantage. They have a slight advantage and are a little bit
>more fuel efficient at higher altitude.
>
>Jerry
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Jerry,
>
>Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite. I thought
that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in that they can be run
full throttle without overspeeding the engine, whereas most F.P. cruise props
have to be up around 10K' (give or take depending on the pitch) before you
can run them wide open.
>
My fixed pitch 'cruise' wood Pacesetter prop would never
exceed 2700 RPM at WOT at 3000 ft - level flight.
My new metal fixed pitch Sensenich prop has a 2600 RPM limitation
and will climb at 300 fpm at 2600 RPM - WOT at 3000 ft.
Aircraft is an RV-3 with 150hp Lycoming.
Equate a C.S. prop to gearing down for T.O. and climb. You develop
more horsepower because of the higher RPM's involved at T.O. and
climb compared to a fixed pitched cruise prop. At cruise they should
be no better than the fixed pitch prop OPTIMIZED for cruise.
That's it in a nutshell.
Do not archive.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Com/Nav Antenna Connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
What kind of antenna cable connectors are used for Com and Nav radios? Is there
consistency among manufacturers?
Roger, Tucson.
Message 21
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<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Re: EFIS-D10 Battery Update |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Gillian,
My internal battery voltage read 16.3 volts when I turned on the unit today.
Is that indicative of an over-charge situation? I removed the keep-alive
fuse immediately after receiving this email just in case.
Is there anything I can do on my end to determine whether or not the battery
is ok or not? i.e. serial #, markings, etc.?
I would prefer the 2nd method of replacement...where you ship me a new
battery and I return the old one. Please let me know if you do not already
have my address on file, etc.
Thanks much,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gillian D'Ancicco" <gillian@dynondevelopment.com>
Subject: EFIS-D10 Battery Update
>
> July 25, 2003
>
> Dear EFIS-D10 customer,
>
>
> You have purchased an EFIS-D10 with the internal battery option. These
> batteries are high capacity Lithium Ion chemistry. (We recently operated
a
> D10 for 4 hours on its internal battery.) As you may know, Lithium Ion
> batteries must be protected from an overcharge condition. This protection
> is redundantly provided by hardware and software in the D10 electronics,
and
> by a special safety circuit inside the battery.
>
> Our battery manufacturer has just informed us that some batteries may have
> been manufactured with the internal safety circuit miswired, which would
> compromise this redundant protection. This manufacturing error was
probably
> confined to the most recent lot of batteries, most of which have been
> quarantined at our facility. We have worked with our battery vendor to
> requalify his manufacturing process and to establish an additional final
> test (which we will duplicate here) to ensure that new batteries are
> properly manufactured. You are receiving this letter because it is likely
> that the battery in your EFIS is from the lot with the manufacturing
error.
>
> While the probability of a problem is very low as it would still require
two
> hardware and/or software failures, safety demands that we ask you not to
fly
> your EFIS-D10 unless the battery has been removed. Directions for
removing
> the battery are given below.
>
> We are offering you two alternatives for making sure you have a good
battery
> in your EFIS: One, you can return your EFIS to us, at our expense, and we
> will verify the battery, replace if necessary, and ship it back to you
> within two days. Second, we can send you a new battery as they become
> available to us from the manufacturer. After replacing the battery, we
ask
> that you ship the old battery to us for remanufacturing.
>
> Directions for removing the battery:
> The battery is removed from the back of the unit (the end opposite the
> display.) The battery is behind a door held on by three hex screws. DO
NOT
> REMOVE the two Philips head screws that hold the back cover on the EFIS.
> This could affect your calibration. Remove the three hex screws and the
> battery cover. The battery can be disconnected by separating the two
> connector pieces. Gently pull the battery out of the EFIS. If a new
> battery is not available, the cover can be replaced and the three hex
screws
> re-inserted. If a new battery is available, slide it in with the "bump"
up
> or away from the case and then mate the connectors. Then replace the back
> cover.
>
> We believe that this is sufficiently important that we request you phone
or
> email us your preferred option for doing this inspection. Otherwise we
will
> telephone you next week. We will ship you a new battery at our expense
> within the next two weeks if this is your preferred option.
>
> We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience this will cause you. One of
> our primary goals is to improve the safety of aviation, and any issue with
> our products that compromises safety will be immediately brought to your
> attention. If you have any complaints or comments about our handling of
> this issue, or any other issue with our products, please call me at
> 425-402-4334.
>
> Thank you,
>
>
> John Torode
> President,
> Dynon Avionics
>
>
> ---
> Version: 6.0.493 / Virus Database: 292 - Release Date: 6/25/2003
>
>
Message 22
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|
<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Re: EFIS-D10 Battery Update |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
FYI,
I just got a phone call from John Torode, the president over at Dynon. He
explained that there's basically no symptom that would tell me whether the
battery is bad or good. He did confirm that the fully charged voltage of
the internal LI battery is 17 volts, though.
Anyway, here's the scoop...
There are four safety methods built into the system to prevent damage from
the internal battery being overcharged. One of them is the internal circuit
in the battery itself...that's the one that's potentially wired incorrectly.
Apparently this problem only occurred in a recent batch. John mentioned
that the battery manufacturer is refining their process to avoid errors like
this in the future, and Dynon now has a software testing method that I
believe they're going to use on all batteries going forward to further rule
out any possibility of faulty manufacturing. So from here on it should be
no problem, but I definitely need to send my battery back to Dynon just to
be safe.
They're sending me a replacement battery, and I can simply send the old
battery back in the box provided...all of this at Dynon's expense,
obviously.
Just one of these little hurdles to jump over as a result of the technology
and manufacturing process being somewhat nacent. As an "early adopter" I
don't mind this at all...since I've got plenty of time before first flight.
The company continues to be a stand-up operation with excellent customer
service.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [RV7Yahoo] Re: EFIS-D10 Battery Update
> Gillian,
>
> My internal battery voltage read 16.3 volts when I turned on the unit
today.
> Is that indicative of an over-charge situation? I removed the keep-alive
> fuse immediately after receiving this email just in case.
>
> Is there anything I can do on my end to determine whether or not the
battery
> is ok or not? i.e. serial #, markings, etc.?
>
> I would prefer the 2nd method of replacement...where you ship me a new
> battery and I return the old one. Please let me know if you do not
already
> have my address on file, etc.
>
> Thanks much,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gillian D'Ancicco" <gillian@dynondevelopment.com>
> To: <gillian@dynondevelopment.com>
> Sent: Friday, July 25, 2003 1:00 PM
> Subject: EFIS-D10 Battery Update
>
>
> >
> > July 25, 2003
> >
> > Dear EFIS-D10 customer,
> >
> >
> > You have purchased an EFIS-D10 with the internal battery option. These
> > batteries are high capacity Lithium Ion chemistry. (We recently
operated
> a
> > D10 for 4 hours on its internal battery.) As you may know, Lithium Ion
> > batteries must be protected from an overcharge condition. This
protection
> > is redundantly provided by hardware and software in the D10 electronics,
> and
> > by a special safety circuit inside the battery.
> >
> > Our battery manufacturer has just informed us that some batteries may
have
> > been manufactured with the internal safety circuit miswired, which would
> > compromise this redundant protection. This manufacturing error was
> probably
> > confined to the most recent lot of batteries, most of which have been
> > quarantined at our facility. We have worked with our battery vendor to
> > requalify his manufacturing process and to establish an additional final
> > test (which we will duplicate here) to ensure that new batteries are
> > properly manufactured. You are receiving this letter because it is
likely
> > that the battery in your EFIS is from the lot with the manufacturing
> error.
> >
> > While the probability of a problem is very low as it would still require
> two
> > hardware and/or software failures, safety demands that we ask you not to
> fly
> > your EFIS-D10 unless the battery has been removed. Directions for
> removing
> > the battery are given below.
> >
> > We are offering you two alternatives for making sure you have a good
> battery
> > in your EFIS: One, you can return your EFIS to us, at our expense, and
we
> > will verify the battery, replace if necessary, and ship it back to
you
> > within two days. Second, we can send you a new battery as they become
> > available to us from the manufacturer. After replacing the battery, we
> ask
> > that you ship the old battery to us for remanufacturing.
> >
> > Directions for removing the battery:
> > The battery is removed from the back of the unit (the end opposite the
> > display.) The battery is behind a door held on by three hex screws. DO
> NOT
> > REMOVE the two Philips head screws that hold the back cover on the EFIS.
> > This could affect your calibration. Remove the three hex screws and the
> > battery cover. The battery can be disconnected by separating the two
> > connector pieces. Gently pull the battery out of the EFIS. If a new
> > battery is not available, the cover can be replaced and the three hex
> screws
> > re-inserted. If a new battery is available, slide it in with the "bump"
> up
> > or away from the case and then mate the connectors. Then replace the
back
> > cover.
> >
> > We believe that this is sufficiently important that we request you phone
> or
> > email us your preferred option for doing this inspection. Otherwise we
> will
> > telephone you next week. We will ship you a new battery at our expense
> > within the next two weeks if this is your preferred option.
> >
> > We sincerely apologize for the inconvenience this will cause you. One
of
> > our primary goals is to improve the safety of aviation, and any issue
with
> > our products that compromises safety will be immediately brought to your
> > attention. If you have any complaints or comments about our handling of
> > this issue, or any other issue with our products, please call me at
> > 425-402-4334.
> >
> > Thank you,
> >
> >
> > John Torode
> > President,
> > Dynon Avionics
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Version: 6.0.493 / Virus Database: 292 - Release Date: 6/25/2003
> >
> >
>
>
> Buy Ink Cartridges & Refill Kits for Your Epson at Myinks.com
> Free shipping on orders $50 or more to the US and Canada.
> http://www.c1tracking.com/l.asp?cid=5705&lp=home/epson.asp
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/brYXfA/_xWGAA/ySSFAA/1yWplB/TM
>
>
> Van's Air Force - World Wide Wing
> www.vansaircraft.net
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
>
>I am building an RV-8 with a O-360, Lasar. Is the Constant speed worth
>the $5000.00. What am I giving up? How do you guys with the fixed pitch
>Sensenich Metal Props like them?
>
>Rich Crosley
>Palmdale,CA
I am very satisfied with the Sensenich, but on my airplane it is pitched at
83", which is pretty fine for the RV8. There is a reason I chose this
pitch: I live where the density altitude is (right now as I'm typing
this)...over 9,000'. I lose some top end speed, but I still get 200mph at
8,000' on a cool day and 2700 rpm. I typically cruise at 2550 to 2600, at
get from A to B averaging in the mid 180's. I also like the dirt simple
maintenance on the fixed prop. Still, to truly get the most out of your
engine and airplane, you cannot be without the C/S. It's a transmission for
your airplane. We fixed pitch guys drive around in one gear, and chose the
gear for our typical flight profile.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
BNC almost universally, at least as far as I've seen. Most avionics
harnesses seem to get wired so that there's a short length of coax
terminated with a male BNC connector. You just wire up a female-female
cable from it to the male connector on your antenna.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Com/Nav Antenna Connectors
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> What kind of antenna cable connectors are used for Com and Nav radios? Is
there consistency among manufacturers?
> Roger, Tucson.
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Totally false (most of the time) :-)
Jerry
RV_8 Pilot wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> CS prop out performs fixed pitch most of the time - high, low, fast, slow.
> Also, 150/160-hp -8's do just fine.
>
> Bryan Jones -8, 530 hrs, 160-hp, CS
> Pearland, Texas
>
>
>
>>Jerry,
>>
>>Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite. I
>>thought that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in that they
>>can be run full throttle without overspeeding the engine, whereas most F.P.
>>cruise props have to be up around 10K' (give or take depending on the
>>pitch) >From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
>>
>><snip>
>>
>>In low level cruise where most of us fly in RVs [C.S. props] have
>>absolutely no advantage. They have a slight advantage and are a little bit
>>more fuel efficient at higher altitude.
>>
>>Jerry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List:crankshaft oil plugs - was Re: STD-1211 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
There has been lots about this in the achieves, because it is such a
critical item to safety I thought it should be run by again.
The new Lycomings with the hollow cranks are set up to run either props,
fixed or constant speed. When they arrive from the factory both the front
and rear plugs are installed in the crank. Also the governor line from the
front to the rear of the engine is in place. It has a cover were the
governor mounts and this has a slot built into it that releives the oil
pressure that would otherwise build up between the two plugs in the front of
the crankshaft. To run the fixed pitch on a factory new just bolt the prop
on, however if the governor line is removed and the holes are plugged then
the front plug has to be removed and the rear plug either removed or
punctured to relieve the pressure and a new plug installed in the front.
To run a constant speed the front plug is removed and the governor installed
in place of the cover and you are all set.
The check list would be:
Fixed pitch with governor line installed, make sure that it has the proper
cover on the governor adapter with the slot in it.
Fixed pitch without governor line the rear plug must be removed or punctured
If the engine is other than factory new all of the above must be verified.
Aero Sport engines are set up to the customer's requirements before being
shipped.
In any case the pressure has to be removed between the plugs when running a
fixed pitch or the front plug can be blown out and all of the oil would be
lost in a matter of minutes.
This pressure can exceed 100 psi on take-off when the engine is not properly
warmed up.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. RV6 20383
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List:crankshaft oil plugs - was Re: STD-1211
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> Y'all,
>
> This is pretty important bit of information for it to be all bumbled
> up. Bumbled mostly by Lycoming! What a stupid design flaw.
>
> I don't remember a back of the crankshaft plug, I can't even recall how
one
> gets to the back of the crankshaft. (My recall of everything is
> deteriorating, however!) I do remember removing the oil line and plugging
> the holes.
>
> If it has run 110 hours, is all okay? Ya got me worrying.
>
> Off to Oshkosh now....
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK flying!
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
Hey, the part about 150/160hp -8's do just fine is valid <g>.
Rob Acker (RV-6, 160hp, 2600 rpm f/p, no overspeed above 3.5K', formation
with O-360 c/s identical cruise performance, 1400fpm@100K climb at 3k',
can't wait to fly at sea level <g>).
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Totally false (most of the time) :-)
>
> Jerry
>
>
> RV_8 Pilot wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>>
>> CS prop out performs fixed pitch most of the time - high, low, fast,
>> slow. Also, 150/160-hp -8's do just fine.
>>
>> Bryan Jones -8, 530 hrs, 160-hp, CS
>> Pearland, Texas
>>
>>
>>
>>>Jerry,
>>>
>>>Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite.
>>> I thought that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in
>>> that they can be run full throttle without overspeeding the engine,
>>> whereas most F.P. cruise props have to be up around 10K' (give or
>>> take depending on the pitch) >From: Jerry Springer
>>> <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch
>>>
>>><snip>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed vs. Fixed Pitch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
RV3 wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
>
> czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>>
>>
>>Jerry,
>>
>>Hmmm...this is interesting...my understanding was just the opposite. I thought
that C.S. props had a big advantage at lower altitudes in that they can be
run full throttle without overspeeding the engine, whereas most F.P. cruise props
have to be up around 10K' (give or take depending on the pitch) before you
can run them wide open.
>>
>
> My fixed pitch 'cruise' wood Pacesetter prop would never
> exceed 2700 RPM at WOT at 3000 ft - level flight.
>
> My new metal fixed pitch Sensenich prop has a 2600 RPM limitation
> and will climb at 300 fpm at 2600 RPM - WOT at 3000 ft.
>
> Aircraft is an RV-3 with 150hp Lycoming.
>
> Equate a C.S. prop to gearing down for T.O. and climb. You develop
> more horsepower because of the higher RPM's involved at T.O. and
> climb compared to a fixed pitched cruise prop. At cruise they should
> be no better than the fixed pitch prop OPTIMIZED for cruise.
>
> That's it in a nutshell.
>
> Do not archive.
>
I believe the key word here is OPTIMIZED for cruise. What you say is true if
that is the way you plan to fly your RV. Most of the people I know that fly with
FP like to have a compromise prop that gives reasonable performance for takeoff
and climb. This well cause loss of performance at higher altitude, well not loss
of performance, but cause you to have to run at a higher RPM to cruise the same
speed were as CS can adjust rpm and manifold pressure for the altitude they fly
at.
I wonder how many of you FP pilots fly at WOT at altitude? I prefer not to in my
RV-6
Are you saying your RV-3 well only climb at 300 fpm at 3000'? Surely a slip of
the finger. :-)
As someone else mentioned a CS is also good for aerobatics but I seem to have as
much fun as the guys with CS and that $5000.00 sure bought a lot of gas. The
person who posted the original question needs to evaluate the type of flying you
plan to do the most of and then buy a prop based on that, not what other people
think. These airplanes fly great with either one.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Inverted Diesel Test Run |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Interesting news for us RV folks. The DeltaHawk folks have just fired up
an inverted version of their 160+ HP 2-stroke diesel in the test stand.
http://www.deltahawkengines.com/index.htm
This looks like it could be a very nice engine for an RV. Weight and price
appear to be on par with a Lycoming. Fuel economy makes it very tempting
indeed, especially if you haul some car diesel to the hangar. :-) The
performance at high altitude also makes this engine tempting.
I wonder if you can add the intercooler that boosts the output to 200 HP
after the fact?
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Marvel Schebler |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 7/25/03 2:51:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bill@vondane.com
writes:
> Anyone wanting to understand the design and operation of the carburetor
> would probably enjoy this well written article.
Thank you very much Bill. The contributors to this list have done much for my
aviation education.
Dale Ensing
do not archive
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