Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:17 AM - Re: Trim tab bends (Graham Potts)
2. 04:08 AM - Re: Trim tab bends (Dana Overall)
3. 06:50 AM - Tire Wear (Bill VonDane)
4. 07:14 AM - Elevator skin tabs (was: Trim tab bends) (Bill Dube)
5. 07:41 AM - Re: Tire Wear (Brian Denk)
6. 08:11 AM - Re: Tire Wear (Rick Galati)
7. 08:20 AM - Re: Tire Wear ()
8. 08:26 AM - RV4 kit (Scott Brown)
9. 08:29 AM - RV-10 (BBreckenridge@att.net)
10. 08:31 AM - Re: Tire Wear (Bill VonDane)
11. 08:33 AM - Re: Tire Wear (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
12. 08:46 AM - Oil Cooler Leak (Tom Gummo)
13. 08:56 AM - Re: (John Starn)
14. 09:16 AM - Welding 4130 canopy frame (Rick Fogerson)
15. 09:21 AM - Re: Tire Wear (Bill VonDane)
16. 09:31 AM - Re: Tire Wear (Brian Denk)
17. 09:55 AM - Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame (Scott Bilinski)
18. 09:58 AM - mag gear (RVer273sb@aol.com)
19. 10:19 AM - Re: Tire Wear (RV3)
20. 10:38 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Leak (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
21. 10:43 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Leak (Jim Jewell)
22. 12:18 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Leak (JusCash@aol.com)
23. 12:23 PM - RV8 Tail (Scott Brown)
24. 01:20 PM - Re: mag gear (Mike Robertson)
25. 04:53 PM - Seat Upholstery (Jerry Isler)
26. 04:57 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Leak (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
27. 05:26 PM - Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame (Chris W)
28. 05:35 PM - Re: RV-10 (Robin Wessel)
29. 05:46 PM - routing wire and bundling wire groups (Jim Jewell)
30. 05:51 PM - Re: Trim tab bends (David Taylor)
31. 05:54 PM - trim tab bends (David Taylor)
32. 06:30 PM - The O-320 D1A has been sold & taken away (C. Rabaut)
33. 06:30 PM - Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame (Jim Oke)
34. 06:46 PM - Re: trim tab bends (Karie Daniel)
35. 08:05 PM - Re;routing wire and bundling (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
36. 08:10 PM - Gyro overhauls (Emrath)
37. 09:31 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Leak (Eustace Bowhay)
38. 11:19 PM - [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Graham Potts" <graham.potts@btconnect.com>
Well, there is not much I can add to the answers you have had on this
already. It's just good to hear somebody else have 3 goes at the trim
tab. I know precisely what you mean. I had three goes at the left
elevator as well and now have a good selection of scrap metal! In fact I
still have the bow you talk about on both the trim tab and the elevator
so they sort of bow away from each other. Luckily this is far more
evident looking at the bottom than the top. I decided in the end to just
move on as that tiny area of the aeroplane was starting to get me down!
If I were doing it again I would go straight for the mini rib idea
others have mentioned. I may well order the whole lot again at a later
stage and do it again but at the time I was getting really fed up with
it all!
Good luck!
Graham
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
David, this is what I did and it seemed to work out fine. I would take a
picture but the camera is packed away for my 1.5 hour from now departure to
Oshkosh. I used a hand seamer on both bends on one side and bent them as
far as I could. I made up two wedges out of hardwood to match both ends. I
them drilled a couple holes about 1/3 of the way through the inside of each
wedge to accept two dowels rods. I then positioned my little contraption
inside the trim tab and tweaked it to fit just inside the bend radius of
both ends. When everything fit, I hot melt glued the contraption together,
placed a small dowel to fit inside the trailing edge of the tab just as
extra support for the tips, and dropped a couple drops of hot melt on it and
inserted my little jig into the trim tab. I know this sounds like overkill
but it took me a grand total of probably .5 hours to make up this bending
thingamajig. Since I had a sister of two wedges I clamped it down to the
workbench, butted the open end up against it, clamped everything (including
the soon to be bend side) and got up the nerve. I started bending with a
block of wood and finished with my mushroom set on my rivet gun turned down
low. Reverse the process on the other end. Making up the jig and clamping
everything down good took up most of the time, about an hour. Be sure and
position a block of wood on top of the skin, sandwiching the skin between
the wedge and the upper clamping block. Bending each was a 10 minute job.
I know this sounds in text like a lot of work to make these bends but it
really was not at all.
Mine, as Steve Eberhart has seen, turned out fine. Make up ribs or bend
them, they both work out fine. Make sure you have all the edges the correct
length and deburred. You won't be able to get back at them afterwards. A
hint here, you do a little latitude in postioning the hinge to make up for
slight differences in the bend on the inside of the trim tab and the
elevator skin.
Karie, the elevator skins seem to bend much more easily and pain free than
the trim tab. Just clamp it real good and take your time.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Trim tab bends
>Date: Mon, 28 Jul 2003 22:21:59 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
>
> Does anyone have an easy method for bending the trim tab skins? I've
>messed up 2 so far and the 3rd is on order. I prefer to make the bends and
>not make ribs. I used the method from the Orndorff empennage video which is
>to use a v-jig and a wedge but the wedge moves inside the skin making a bow
>in the bend. Any detailed pics are appreciated.
>
> -David
>Taylor
> Warner
>Robins, GA
>
>Empennage/Wings N207DT reserved
>
>
Message 3
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"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had ANY of
the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are reporting... I
have 115 hours and 258 landings in 15 months on my kit supplied Aero Trainers,
and I still have A LOT of life left in them...
I have posted some pictures of my tires here:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/new/index.htm
The pictures are not great, but you can trust me when I say the tires are perfectly
fine, and will probably last another 100 hours, at least!
If anyone has some new AT's they are not going to install on their RV's, let me
know... I'll take them!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - 115 hrs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Elevator skin tabs (was: Trim tab bends) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 10:26 PM 7/28/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
>Just curious, have you bent the tabs on the elevator skin yet? How did those
>turn out? The reason I ask is because the plans have pictures of a the wedge
>and some large C clamps holding the skin to the bench. I am in this exact
>same spot right now and don't want to screw this up since I have so many
>hours invested in the skin, stiffeners and trim access.
I made a wedge-shaped wooden block that fit snugly against the
stiffeners. The block had a "handle" that extended inboard along the place
where the rear (trim tab) spar would eventually go. I inserted the block,
match-drilled it to the spar holes in the upper and lower skin, and then
Clecoed it into place. I then clecoed the front spar to keep the skin shut.
I then bent the tabs into position without a problem.
To get the tabs into their final position, I finished the last few
degrees of the bend using a body hammer and a bucking bar as a dolly.
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
>All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had
>ANY of the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are
>reporting...
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - 115 hrs
'Cuz ya dont got a taildragger!
So there. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV-10 tailkit
do not archive
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>All the talk recently
about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had ANY ofthe problems with
the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are reporting... Ihave 115 hours and
258 landings in 15 months on my kit supplied Aero Trainers,and I still have A
LOT of life left in them...
One two cent opinion:
Tire wear, like gear shimmy can be, to borrow a phrase from my builders manual,
a "rather nebulous thing". It occurs on some airplanes and not on others. Just
think about all the variables the builder must consider and deal with when
locating and installing the gear weldments on the 6A slow build series. The earlier
kits required the builder to drill out the hole for the bolt that attaches
the gear leg to the weldment. Rotated slightly off in either leg either thru
vibration or imprecise measurement is an open invitation for toe-in problems. You
know
how easy it is for a drill bit to "walk" under the best of circumstances. Keeping
a
drill bit on a straight and narrow track through a thick piece of round and hardened
steel is no small task. I doubt very much that every RV builder has the same skill
level,
the same exacting standards, the same attention to detail, much less that all
builders
are in possession the same tool quality. Until that unlikely day occcurs, I don't
see
anything unusual at all about random and excessive tire wear.
Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
---------------------------------
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
Hah...taildragger ain't no excuse either <g>. I have 43 novice
taildragger hours on my RV-6, lots of pattern work and landings,
Aerotrainers (and brake pads) still look new.
Personally, I think its people riding the brakes. I find the only time I
need brakes is for stopping from a taxi, for tight turns, and for runup.
You just don't need them any other time during normal ops.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
do not archive
>
> 'Cuz ya dont got a taildragger!
>
> So there. :)
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
> RV-10 tailkit
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>>
>>All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not
>> had ANY of the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people
>> are reporting...
>>
>>-Bill VonDane
>>RV-8A - 115 hrs
do not archive
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
Listers,
Does anyone have an RV4 kit or parts of it for sale? Please respond off list
at:
scottbrown@precisionjet.com
Cheers,
Scott
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
As promised, the RV-10 kit became a catalog item today!
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/orderfrm.htm
Think I'll fill out the form and just mosey on down with my deposit....
Bruce Breckenridge
Clackamas, OR
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
You're just jealous cuz I can land better than you!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire Wear
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
>All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had
>ANY of the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are
>reporting...
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - 115 hrs
'Cuz ya dont got a taildragger!
So there. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV-10 tailkit
do not archive
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by:
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tire Wear
I have a tail dragger with 120 hours in 7 months, my Aero trainers are
holding up just fine. I do have to add a little air once in a while.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, 120+ hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [mailto:akroguy@hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire Wear
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
>
>All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had
>ANY of the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are
>reporting...
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - 115 hrs
'Cuz ya dont got a taildragger!
So there. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV-10 tailkit
do not archive
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RE: RV-List: Tire Wear
I have a tail dragger with 120 hours in 7 months, my Aero trainers are holding
up just fine. I do have to add a little air once in a while.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, 120+ hours.
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian Denk [<A HREF"mailto:akroguy@hotmail.com">mailto:akroguy@hotmail.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire Wear
-- RV-List message posted by: Brian Denk akroguy@hotmail.com
-- RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane bill@vondane.com
All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had
ANY of the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are
reporting...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - 115 hrs
'Cuz ya dont got a taildragger!
So there. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV-10 tailkit
do not archive
DISCLAIMER: The information contained in this e-mail message may be privileged,
confidential and protected from disclosure. If you are not the intended recipient,
any further disclosure, use, dissemination, distribution or copying of this
message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. If you think you have received
this e-mail message in error, please e-mail the sender at the above address
and permanently delete the e-mail. Although this e-mail and any attachments
are believed to be free of any virus or other defect that might affect any
computer system into which they are received and opened, it is the responsibility
of the recipient to ensure that they are virus free and no responsibility
is accepted by Giant Industries, Inc. or its affiliates for any loss or damage
arising in any way from their use.
Message 12
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"Rocket List" <rocket-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
It looks like my oiler cooler has sprung a leak.
1. If so, can it be fixed?
2. What is the cost, fixed verse new (used?)?
Any good ideas out there?
Thanks,
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
AIR ! ! !, ya gotta put air in'em, dang maybes dats why wheeze wares 'en out
so quick. Air in'em might make fir an easier roll two and not take full
pow'r jest ta taxi. 8*) Do Not Archive. KABONG (added two sets of shims
to the HRII and lots of re-measurements to finally get "good" tire wear).
From: Larry Hawkins <lhawkins@giant.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Tire Wear
I do have to add a little air once in a while.
Larry Hawkins, RV-4 Farmington, NM, N-345SL, 120+ hours.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Welding 4130 canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi listers,
I'm ready to fab the sliding canopy frame and am looking for a welder. The archives
don't address acceptable welder and/or techniques for 4130 (other than keep
the heat low). A local guy bought and used a cheep wire feed welder on his
but I am a little more cautious since I don't know dittlety squat about welding.
What do you guys say?
Thanks,
Rick Fogerson
finishing RV3
Boise, ID
Message 15
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"vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Ok... I screwed up...
I have to double check this today, but I am pretty sure I have the AirHawk tires
and NOT the Aero Trainers...
DOH!
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: Tire Wear
All the talk recently about tire wear has me befuddled... I have not had ANY of
the problems with the Aero Trainers that a lot of people are reporting... I
have 115 hours and 258 landings in 15 months on my kit supplied Aero Trainers,
and I still have A LOT of life left in them...
I have posted some pictures of my tires here:
http://www.vondane.com/rv8a/new/index.htm
The pictures are not great, but you can trust me when I say the tires are perfectly
fine, and will probably last another 100 hours, at least!
If anyone has some new AT's they are not going to install on their RV's, let me
know... I'll take them!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - 115 hrs
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
>
>Hah...taildragger ain't no excuse either <g>. I have 43 novice
>taildragger hours on my RV-6, lots of pattern work and landings,
>Aerotrainers (and brake pads) still look new.
>
>Personally, I think its people riding the brakes. I find the only time I
>need brakes is for stopping from a taxi, for tight turns, and for runup.
>You just don't need them any other time during normal ops.
>
>Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
>do not archive
And again I simply must add the following:
RV8 has waaaay different landing gear configuration than the -6/-7/-4.
Everything moves in different ways: Whitman style gear vs. spring steel
mounted to fuse at wing leading edge.
Still, I'll admit to using brakes. It's just about impossible not to with
the rudder pedal design on the -8, as has been yakked about ad infinitum
here on the list and the RV8 list. I also get to land going warp 9 here in
New Mexico on hot summer days due to big time high density altitude. Von
Dane does too up in Colorado.
My second set of tires are doing much better (Condors), most likely due to
getting over the learning curve that first year and the harder rubber of the
Condors. My next set will be retreads.
No matter how you wear your tires, it sure is fun doing so in these
wonderful airplanes.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 tailkit.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
If you dont know welding, dont even try until you have some training. There is
a big problem when welding things like a canopy frame. When you align the parts
and weld, the parts will move, nless rigidly mounted, and even then they still
move which can have a snow ball effect. You start on one end and by the time
you finished on the other it is totally out of shape. I would just pay the
money and have an expert do it right the first time.
At 10:17 AM 7/29/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
>Hi listers,
>I'm ready to fab the sliding canopy frame and am looking for a welder. The
>archives don't address acceptable welder and/or techniques for 4130 (other
>than keep the heat low). A local guy bought and used a cheep wire feed
>welder on his but I am a little more cautious since I don't know dittlety
>squat about welding. What do you guys say?
>
>Thanks,
>Rick Fogerson
>finishing RV3
>Boise, ID
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
fellow listers,
Anyone know if a slick mag gear (non impulse)
will work on the Ligjtspeed hall effect unit?
Thanks,
Stewart RV-4
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
>Hah...taildragger ain't no excuse either <g>. I have 43 novice
>taildragger hours on my RV-6, lots of pattern work and landings,
>Aerotrainers (and brake pads) still look new.
>
>Personally, I think its people riding the brakes. I find the only time I
>need brakes is for stopping from a taxi, for tight turns, and for runup.
>You just don't need them any other time during normal ops.
>
>Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
>do not archive
>
============================================
I'm a ;-) novice with 8000 hours and 50 years in taildraggers.
My RV-3, even at a 750 rpm idle, wants to run faster than
is smart to taxi on HARD SURFACE, so brakes MUST be
applied every now and then for safety's sake.
YMMV.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Leak |
22, 2002) at 07/29/2003 12:38:03 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Let me guess. You have a positech instead of a stewart Warner right? If so
go with the Stewart Warner.
Regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Tom,
Oil cooler leaks may or may not be fixable. it depends on the location and
the type of leak., Are the leaks deep inside among the tubes? Cracked tubes
or cracks in or on the tanks? The type of leak, burst tubes, wear oriented
leaks, cracks at welds, or poor welding etc.
If you have not sent the oil cooler in oil question back to the
manufacturer? do consider sending it back to the source. They really should
be the best people to deal with on stuff like this.
If they are not people you feel you can trust to give you the right answers,
crush the leaky oil cooler and buy a new one from some manufacturer or
supplier that you feel you can trust and rely upon from this point on.
Good luck,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
<rocket-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> It looks like my oiler cooler has sprung a leak.
>
> 1. If so, can it be fixed?
> 2. What is the cost, fixed verse new (used?)?
>
> Any good ideas out there?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
In a message dated 7/29/2003 10:39:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
>
> Let me guess. You have a positech instead of a stewart Warner right? If so
> go with the Stewart Warner.
>
> Regards
> Glenn Williams
> do not archive
I have heard a lot of knocks about PosiTech oil coolers. My experience has
not been bad. During flight testing on a 100 degree day, after multiple take
off and landings my oil temps went to red line. Prior to that the most I had
seen was 225 degrees. Normal cruise was around 200 degrees, still higher than
I liked. I went into the archives and found that PosiTech would replace the
oil cooler at no charge. Called Bryan Templeton at PosiTech (800-367-1374) he
told me the early oil coolers had to many rows restricting the air flow. What
was needed to correct the temp problem was to go from an 11 row to 7 row oil
cooler. Installed the 7 row cooler, I now see 190 degree cruise and a max of
225 degrees on a 105 degree day. My cooler is mounted as high as possible on
the rear baffle and the opening in the baffle is the same size as the cooler
fins. In winter I might have to close down the opening. In my opinion the
PosiTech is doing the job it is designed to do.
Cash Copeland
RV6 N46FC
Hayward, Ca
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
If there is anyone out there that is selling an RV8 tail section, please
contact me off-line at scottbrown@precisionjet.com
thanks,
Scott
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Yes. If I remember correctly, the installation instructions even talk about
doing exactly that.
Mike Robertson
>From: RVer273sb@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: mag gear
>Date: Tue, 29 Jul 2003 12:57:43 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
>
>fellow listers,
> Anyone know if a slick mag gear (non impulse)
>will work on the Ligjtspeed hall effect unit?
>Thanks,
> Stewart RV-4
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Fellow Listers,
I am in the process of trying to find a local upholstery shop to cover the
seats for my RV-4. In talking with these people some questions have come up
that I hope you can help with. First off, I have already purchased a leather
hide from JART (see Trade-a-Plane) and foam seat cores from Oregon Aero so I
do not want to send them off to be covered.
What I need to know is:
1) Does your seat cushions have hard backs and bottoms in them or are they
slip covers with no support? It appears a better job of covering can be done
with these backs installed because it gives you something to pull the
covering tight with and then an attachment point for the covering. These
backs are hard card board or so it seems and would be covered with the same
material as the seat so that it would have a finished look if you pulled the
seat cushion out of it's frame.
2) How are your seats attached to the airframe? It appears Velcro attached
to the cushions and to the seat backs / cabin
floor would be the best way to go.
3) What kind of spacer did you use to raise the front seat? Oregon Aero seat
cores sit flat on the floor as designed and are thick enough to clear the
front spar. It is suggested to use hard styrofoam to get additional height.
If this is used, how did you finish the foam to keep it from flaking? Did
you cover it as the seats are covered?
Thanks
Jerry Isler
Donalsonville, GA.
RV-4 N455J
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Leak |
22, 2002) at 07/29/2003 06:57:15 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
granted the positech will do the job it is designed to do. However the
stewart Warner is in my opinion a better unit. Of course opinions on this
subject are kinds like choosing between a Ford or Chevy. You decide on what
oil cooler to go with but personal experience I am trying to relay to you
is like the old saying pay me now or pay me later. By the time you buy and
install a positech and decide to go with the stewart warner unit well you
see the gist of my message.
Glenn
do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
Scott Bilinski wrote:
> If you dont know welding, dont even try until you have some training. There is
> a big problem when welding things like a canopy frame. When you align the parts
> and weld, the parts will move, nless rigidly mounted, and even then they still
> move which can have a snow ball effect. You start on one end and by the time
> you finished on the other it is totally out of shape. I would just pay the
> money and have an expert do it right the first time.
Very good points. If Rick still wants to give it a try, I would I would suggest
brazing. In my experience brazing is easier than welding. A well fitting brazed
joint is as strong as welding and you don't need as much heat, a tiny bit heavier
than welding though. If you are going to weld it, TIG welding is the best method
for thin tubing. However, TIG welding is one of the more difficult welding skills
to master and TIG welders are pretty expensive if you don't know some one who has
one you can use.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Wessel" <Robin.Wessel@verizon.net>
I dropped off my deposit at 2 pm this afternoon at Van's and got
assigned serial #40023. I am not sure if they have counted all of their
first day OSH orders. Apparently, there were some eager builders wanting
to get those coveted low serial #'s.
Robin Wessel
RV-6A, Tigard OR
--> RV-List message posted by:
<mailto:BBreckenridge@att.net?subject=Re:%20RV-10&replyto=200307291529.h
6TFTF013980@matronics.com> BBreckenridge@att.net
As promised, the RV-10 kit became a catalog item today!
<http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/orderfrm.htm>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/orderfrm.htm
Think I'll fill out the form and just mosey on down with my deposit....
Bruce Breckenridge
Clackamas, OR
Message 29
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| Subject: | routing wire and bundling wire groups |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Gang,
While trying to group some wires together behind the control panel I have tried
using a few things such as tie straps,
(fell crow) SP? Finger sized clamps and the flat waxed wire tie cord. In each
case adding new wires to the bundle was somehow or other quite cumbersome and
time consuming.
Yesterday I found a solution to this pesky problem.
I cut short lengths (about 3 coils long) of automotive type of polyethylene spiral
wrap. I have since cut the little sharp corners off each end of them so as
to have even less trouble with tangles when putting them on the wire groups.
I used a diameter that would be a good fit when the bundle was about full.
These short lengths can be positioned at intervals along the bundle and be slid
along the wire bundle pulling it together as you go. Adding new wires to the
bundle is now quicker and easier.
When done, the finished harness can be tied with what ever your choice of final
tying product that suits the need, removing the temporary spirals as you go.
A half dozen of these short lengths cost almost nothing and can be utilized on
the next RV (A 10 maybe) you will be building ):-)! Right eh!
I don't suppose I'm the first to think of this but I offer the hint for what it
is worth.
Jim in Kelowna
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Karie,
I bought the kit already started and the left elevator bend was already
completed. They did a very good job. I hope my next attempt on the trim tab
comes out as well. Good luck!
-David Taylor
Warner Robins, GA
Empennage RV-6A N207DT reserved
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trim tab bends
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> Just curious, have you bent the tabs on the elevator skin yet? How did
those
> turn out? The reason I ask is because the plans have pictures of a the
wedge
> and some large C clamps holding the skin to the bench. I am in this exact
> same spot right now and don't want to screw this up since I have so many
> hours invested in the skin, stiffeners and trim access.
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A QB
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Trim tab bends
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
> >
> > Does anyone have an easy method for bending the trim tab skins? I've
> messed up 2 so far and the 3rd is on order. I prefer to make the bends and
> not make ribs. I used the method from the Orndorff empennage video which
is
> to use a v-jig and a wedge but the wedge moves inside the skin making a
bow
> in the bend. Any detailed pics are appreciated.
> >
>
-David
> Taylor
> >
Warner
> Robins, GA
> >
> Empennage/Wings N207DT reserved
> >
> >
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Thanks to everyone who responded about the trim tab bends. I'm hoping the new skin
will be in next week and I am studying all the methods proposed.
Do not archive
-David Taylor
Warner Robins, GA
Empennage RV-6A N207DT reserved
Message 32
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<rv8-list@matronics.com>, <rv6-list@matronics.com>,
<rv4-list@matronics.com>, <rv3-list@matronics.com>,
"David - O320 - Shani" <David.Shani@sanmina-sci.com>, <Chris.Kleen@faa.gov>
| Subject: | The O-320 D1A has been sold & taken away |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Thanks everyone... I wish I could sell you all an O-320, but I only had one.
Ron was the first to reply and true to his word, came and got it. Sooooooo,
the only engine I got left for sale is a 75 hp 2 stroke, 4 cylinder, McCullah
motor (carb, prop hub, exhaust, & mag included). However I wouldn't recommend
it for an RV, because it feels like it only weighs about 75 lbs. I got it
in trade from "a friend" who says it was for a Military Drone, it has zero time,
and it's used for gyro-planes mostly but they have been mounted on other
planes like Sonerai's, Kit Foxes, etc... Hey make an offer, I got no use for
it, and I'll let it go cheap (just something else I can tell my wife "I sold
it!".... that makes her happy).
Chuck
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Hi Roger;
The relatively small amount of welding in an RV-3 canopy frame is best done
with light duty oxy-acetylene equipment. This should be available in better
auto tool supply places and so on. A smaller set with half size tanks will
be more than adequate.
Oxy-acetylene welding is another one of those skills which requires a bit of
knowledge and lots of practise. You can try and teach yourself, but far
better to find a local EAA guy who knows welding and trading some riveting
or whatever for welding lessons. Then practise.....
There are also lots of EAA videos and books available about this kind of
welding if you need to go the self-taught route. Maybe a local high school
or trade school offers welding classes
The RV-3 canopy frame consists (or it did when I made one 15 years or so
ago) of a lot of small thin-wall tubing. This is actually a bit tricky to
weld as it is easy to "melt through" so try and get the smallest welding tip
sizes you can find - size 00 as I recall.
The other option is to cut the material and find someone else to weld it,
the small amount of welding won't take long. Fitting and bending the tubing
does. The canopy frame is hardly a heavy duty structural item so no reason
not to give it a try yourself.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-3 C-FIZM
RV-6A C-GKGZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Subject: RV-List: Welding 4130 canopy frame
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
>
> Hi listers,
> I'm ready to fab the sliding canopy frame and am looking for a welder.
The archives don't address acceptable welder and/or techniques for 4130
(other than keep the heat low). A local guy bought and used a cheep wire
feed welder on his but I am a little more cautious since I don't know
dittlety squat about welding. What do you guys say?
>
> Thanks,
> Rick Fogerson
> finishing RV3
> Boise, ID
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: trim tab bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Ditto!
I feel like I have a pretty good handle on it now with some great
suggestions, thanks everyone. I'm off to Oshkosh in the morning so I'll be
finishing it when I get home.
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: trim tab bends
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
>
> Thanks to everyone who responded about the trim tab bends. I'm hoping the
new skin will be in next week and I am studying all the methods proposed.
>
> Do not archive
>
> -David Taylor
> Warner Robins, GA
> Empennage RV-6A N207DT
reserved
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re;routing wire and bundling |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
An old time navy electronics friend told me to twist the wire bundles if you
want to bend them. When twisted , you can bend and move them easily.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
do not archive
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Can anyone advise me if they have ever done a gyro overhaul themselves
and what might be entailed. My used electric RC Allan, while I bench
run it monthly, precesses more than I think it should. I may overhaul
prior to installation.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Do not archive
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Tom I would suggest you contact Pacific Oil Cooler Service 626 454 3172.
They are located in El Monte, CA and are a F.A.A. approved facility, been in
business since 1961 and cater to the experimental category.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
<rocket-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <t.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> It looks like my oiler cooler has sprung a leak.
>
> 1. If so, can it be fixed?
> 2. What is the cost, fixed verse new (used?)?
>
> Any good ideas out there?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | [ Jim Cone ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jim Cone <jimnbev@olypen.com>
Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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