Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:54 AM - 8 Gear Leg Problem (Ken Brooks)
2. 09:08 AM - Re: routing wire and bundling wire groups (Bill Dube)
3. 09:25 AM - Re: 8 Gear Leg Problem (Brian Denk)
4. 09:34 AM - Re: Trim tab bends (Bill Dube)
5. 10:24 AM - Re: Trim tab bends (Rob Prior)
6. 12:39 PM - Re: Trim tab bends (Bill Dube)
7. 12:46 PM - Re: Gyro overhauls (Bill Dube)
8. 03:08 PM - Re: Marvel Schebler--& Slick Handling (Elsa & Henry)
9. 03:36 PM - Re: Trim tab bends (Elsa & Henry)
10. 06:11 PM - Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame (Rick Fogerson)
11. 06:15 PM - Re: RV-10 (Jim Oke)
12. 08:29 PM - Re: RV-10 (Brian Denk)
Message 1
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| Subject: | 8 Gear Leg Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
For you RV-8 builders out there -- any of you experience a problem with
the fit of the U-803 bracket over the gear leg? The plans/drawing call
for an .030" gap between the wear plate and the bracket after it's been
torqued to 240 inch pounds. Our gap disappears by about 70 inch pounds
and the bracket begins to bend by 100 inch pounds! Could my gear leg
thickness be less than nominal? Could the bracket be milled to too
great a depth? We plan to ask Ken Krueger at OSH when we go up this
weekend, but thought some of you may have encountered something similar.
I have checked the archives and didn't find any suggestions. Thanks in
advance.
Ken Brooks
RV-8QB in progress
N1903P reserved
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: routing wire and bundling wire groups |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
I have found that the best way to make up a harness is to temporarily
mount a series of "hooks" where the harness will run. I typically use short
lengths coat hanger wire for large hooks and 14 gauge copper house wire for
small hooks. Almost any kind of easily-bent solid wire works fine as long
as it does not have sharp ends or sharp edges. I make a loose 1 1/2 or 2
turn spiral for the "hook" that holds the wire bundle.
I temporarily mount the hooks on every spot where I intend to mount a
harness support. I also temporarily mount hooks using duct tape (or
whatever) here and there where the harness branches off, but may not be
tied to the structure.
I thread the wiring though the hooks as I put it in place. Often, I'll
replace a hook with a larger one as the bundle grows. When ALL the wiring
is complete, I bundle it up and tie it down with whatever I have selected
for the permanent support and/or sheathing.
This method results in a VERY tidy and professional-looking harness.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 8 Gear Leg Problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
or you RV-8 builders out there -- any of you experience a problem with
>the fit of the U-803 bracket over the gear leg? The plans/drawing call
>for an .030" gap between the wear plate and the bracket after it's been
>torqued to 240 inch pounds. Our gap disappears by about 70 inch pounds
>and the bracket begins to bend by 100 inch pounds! Could my gear leg
>thickness be less than nominal? Could the bracket be milled to too
>great a depth? We plan to ask Ken Krueger at OSH when we go up this
>weekend, but thought some of you may have encountered something similar.
>I have checked the archives and didn't find any suggestions. Thanks in
>advance.
>
>Ken Brooks
>RV-8QB in progress
>N1903P reserved
The gear legs on my -8 were both different in how they fit up. One went on
nicely, while the other required some grinding on the inside of the U block
to sit down properly. (The opposite of your problem.) The .030" gap was
attained, but after the first 40 hours or so, they loosened up enough to
require retorqueing...which is a huge pain. So, my recommendation, contrary
to plans, is to crank those blocks down and disregard the gap. Try to
achieve the specified torque as best you can. Ken may advise that you grind
off some of the ends of the U blocks to alow the minimum specified torque
value to be attained without bottoming out.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
344 hrs.
RV10 tailkit ordered
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
After I read Van's instructions on bending the trim tab edges, I thought
to myself, "This looks much more complicated than it has to be."
First, it is a heck of a lot easier to make the end bends BEFORE you make
the trailing edge bend. You have MUCH better access to do the difficult
edge bends if you make the simple trailing edge bend afterward instead of
beforehand. You don't have to make a special wedge block. You don't have to
go nuts clamping though the skin with a second wedge block.
You simply "sharpen" one corner of your bench slightly (to match the
trailing edge pre-bent angle) and clamp (and cleco) the skin to the bench
(inside of the skin against the bench). Align the clecos so the center tang
is parallel to the bend you are going to make. The clamp block is just a
chunk of 2 x 6. Bend each tab down, in turn, easily and quickly against the
bench top edge.
When you make the trailing edge bend, you won't be able to bend it quite
far enough to compensate for the spring back because the edge bends will
limit the angle. After you have bent it as far as you can with your 2 x 6
"brake", just give it a series of very gentle taps with the dead blow
hammer to take the bow out of the back portion of the skin.
This resulted in a trim tab that looked good to me. Your mileage may vary.
:-)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Bill Dube wrote:
> First, it is a heck of a lot easier to make the end bends BEFORE you
make
> the trailing edge bend. You have MUCH better access to do the difficult
> edge bends if you make the simple trailing edge bend afterward instead of
> beforehand. You don't have to make a special wedge block. You don't have to
> go nuts clamping though the skin with a second wedge block.
This would be a great idea, but requires that you have one of the kits
that starts out as a lump of rock that you have to mine your own
aluminum out of. My -7 tailkit came with the trailing edge bend already
done on the trim tab.
Another alternative that I haven't seen mentioned is to lop off the tabs
with your handy-dandy shears, and to use some of that scrap aluminum Van
sends to make little "ribs" for the ends of the tab. Yes, you'll end up
with rivets showing on at least one side, but i've seen it make a clean
trim tab on more than one RV.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>This would be a great idea, but requires that you have one of the kits
>that starts out as a lump of rock that you have to mine your own
>aluminum out of. My -7 tailkit came with the trailing edge bend already
>done on the trim tab.
They start it for you, but it is not fully bent. The instructions
say to first complete the trailing edge bend, THEN bend the edge tabs. It
is much easier to leave the trailing edge partially bent, like it came out
of the box, and bend the edge tabs first.
>Another alternative that I haven't seen mentioned is to lop off the tabs
>with your handy-dandy shears, and to use some of that scrap aluminum Van
>sends to make little "ribs" for the ends of the tab. Yes, you'll end up
>with rivets showing on at least one side, but i've seen it make a clean
>trim tab on more than one RV.
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Gyro overhauls |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 10:09 PM 7/29/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
>Can anyone advise me if they have ever done a gyro overhaul themselves
>and what might be entailed. My used electric RC Allan, while I bench
>run it monthly, precesses more than I think it should. I may overhaul
>prior to installation.
I took one apart, adjusted the bearings, then put it back together
again successfully. It was a delicate task. It was similar to taking apart
a giant, very complicated, watch. It would have been very easy to break
something had I not been extremely careful. Also, I bought it on e-bay for
$10, so I did not have much to lose if I screwed up.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Marvel Schebler--& Slick Handling |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Sam Buchanan, graciously provided an interesting link at my request for
information on Slick Magnetos in his reply post of 7/ 26 /03. It is a 5 page
article titled "Slick Handling", basically on timing those items.
But,-isn't it funny how some people go out of their way to make themselves
perfectly clear by over-doing the description of what they are writing
about, to the point that they completely screw up the original statement!
Case in point:
The author of the article, Chris Maida, on the second page is describing how
to locate the No. 1 cylinder, (quote) "---On a Lycoming, No. 1 is the front
cylinder on the right side of the engine,---" --Now if he had left that
statement right there, it would have been correct as is, because we know
what the right side (Starboard) of an aircraft is, as the right wing, right
aileron, right nav light (Green),etc, etc. But no! He continues the above,
(quote), "---viewed from the front of the plane (i.e., looking back toward
the tail).--" -----So now I'm standing in font of the engine, looking toward
the tail and my right side is now the port side of the engine!--- End of
case in point!
It's not the first publication I've seen that has screwed this up! A glaring
example is an old book I have, "Aircraft Reciprocating Engines" EA ARE, a
Jeppesen Sanderson Training Product, where on page 16 the cylinder layout
titles for Lycomings and Continentals are interchanged!
Thought you might be amused! Cheers!!--Henry Hore
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Trim tab bends |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Reading these posts on trim tabs, makes me think how spoilt and lucky you -7
guys are! On my -6 kit (1995 vintage), we had to cut the trim tab out of the
left elevator skin inboard end, and bend the end brackets on the elevator
AND the trim tab. There was enough skin on the inboard edge of the panel but
it was a tricky layout to allow enough for the bending of the end tabs.
Managed to do it nicely without screwing it up. I don't know if you guys
have the same situation: There are two pop-rivets that connect the bent-up
tab to the bent-down tab one on the elevator and one the trim tab.- Make
sure that these rivets are off-set from each other in your lay-out so they
don't snag on each other.
> They start it for you, but it is not fully bent. The instructions
>say to first complete the trailing edge bend, THEN bend the edge tabs. It
>is much easier to leave the trailing edge partially bent, like it came out
>of the box, and bend the edge tabs first.
Cheers!! ------Henry Hore
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Welding 4130 canopy frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Fogerson" <rickf@cableone.net>
Hi Listers,
I can see now I wasn't clear. I knew what I meant when I said " am looking
for a welder". I meant someone in my area who welds for a living, not the
equipment. Any how, I appreciate everyones response. I also reached Chuck
Brietigam, (my RV guru) walking the grounds at Oshkosh by cell phone. I
will pass along what he said for the benefit of anyone else deciding to
build a slider. TIG was best using using ER80S2D rod although ER70S2D would
work also, just not as well. He didn't even have to think about it. He
also said wire feed adds to much weld material and wasn't as strong.
Braseing could be done but with the same result.
thanks again for everyones response,
Rick Fogerson
RV3 finish
Boise, ID
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Welding 4130 canopy frame
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> If you dont know welding, dont even try until you have some training. >
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
So, who is going to start up the first RV-10 builder's web-site ? (So the
rest of us can follow along in the adventure.)
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-3
RV-6A
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <BBreckenridge@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-10
> --> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
> As promised, the RV-10 kit became a catalog item today!
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/orderfrm.htm
>
> Think I'll fill out the form and just mosey on down with my deposit....
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> Clackamas, OR
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
>So, who is going to start up the first RV-10 builder's web-site ? (So the
>rest of us can follow along in the adventure.)
>
>Jim Oke
>Winnipeg, MB
>RV-3
>RV-6A
I bought the domain RV-10.org for my future web page/builder's log. Don't
expect to see anything soon though!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV-10 tail ordered
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