Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Re: need dimensions for 3ATI panel cutout (Richard V. Reynolds)
2. 05:42 AM - For Sale: New Rapco Vacuum Pump & Guage (dag adamson)
3. 08:17 AM - Re: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP (Chuck Weyant)
4. 08:34 AM - Re: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP (Michael McGee)
5. 08:39 AM - Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks (Shemp)
6. 09:20 AM - Re: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP (Stein Bruch)
7. 09:22 AM - Panel Layout -- IFR requirements? (Ken Brooks)
8. 10:20 AM - Re: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP (Michael McGee)
9. 10:46 AM - Re: Low fuel level indicator (Kosta Lewis)
10. 11:00 AM - grommet question (Dan Checkoway)
11. 11:06 AM - Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? (Roger Evenson)
12. 11:27 AM - Re: grommet question (Dan Checkoway)
13. 11:32 AM - Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot (George McNutt)
14. 11:38 AM - Re: Low fuel level indicator (Terry Watson)
15. 11:43 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? (Jeff Orear)
16. 11:45 AM - Help KMA-20 Radio (RV6HES@comcast.net)
17. 11:48 AM - Dynon Shipped (Donald Mei)
18. 12:04 PM - LED position lights in the wingtip (BillDube@killacycle.com)
19. 12:49 PM - RV-8A Cowl (Vincent Welch)
20. 01:08 PM - Lightspeed ignition model opinions? (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
21. 01:33 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Ron Walker)
22. 01:59 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Jeff Orear)
23. 02:18 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Kevin Horton)
24. 02:58 PM - Re: Lightspeed ignition model opinions? (BPattonsoa@aol.com)
25. 03:16 PM - Off Airport Landing (Eustace Bowhay)
26. 04:02 PM - Re: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP (Bob Hassel)
27. 04:06 PM - Re: Oshkosh RV-6 accident (Cy Galley)
28. 04:12 PM - Where to buy - Govenor oil line (Tim Bryan)
29. 04:25 PM - Re: Where to buy - Govenor oil line (Larry Bowen)
30. 04:25 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Larry Bowen)
31. 04:30 PM - Re: Off Airport Landing (JusCash@aol.com)
32. 04:48 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (N223RV@aol.com)
33. 05:08 PM - Re: Where to buy - Govenor oil line (Dan Checkoway)
34. 05:09 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Dan Checkoway)
35. 05:41 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Pat Hatch)
36. 06:00 PM - MK-319-BS Shank Size? (Karie Daniel)
37. 06:05 PM - Empennage Fiberglass tip questions (Karie Daniel)
38. 06:12 PM - Re: grommet question (Cy Galley)
39. 06:16 PM - Re: grommet question (Dave Bristol)
40. 06:21 PM - Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware (Karie Daniel)
41. 07:18 PM - Re: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware (Cy Galley)
42. 07:26 PM - Van's Oil Pressure Guage Questions (DAVID DAVENPORT)
43. 07:31 PM - Re: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware (Kosta Lewis)
44. 07:48 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Jerry Springer)
45. 08:06 PM - Re: MK-319-BS Shank Size? (Gil Alexander)
46. 08:13 PM - Re:MK-319-BS Shank Size (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
47. 08:14 PM - Re: Van's Oil Pressure Guage Questions (Dave Bristol)
48. 08:16 PM - Re: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware (Karie Daniel)
49. 08:20 PM - Trio Avionics digital autopilot (Rob W M Shipley)
50. 08:21 PM - FAB filter (Dave Ford)
51. 08:28 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Alex Peterson)
52. 08:31 PM - Re: FAB filter (Alex Peterson)
53. 09:16 PM - Re: Oshkosh RV-6 accident (James E. Clark)
54. 09:17 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Stein Bruch)
55. 09:21 PM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Stein Bruch)
56. 09:22 PM - Re: FAB filter (Stein Bruch)
57. 10:11 PM - Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot (Sam Buchanan)
58. 10:30 PM - Re: FAB filter (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: need dimensions for 3ATI panel cutout |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
The Sandel Installation manual has the cut out dimensions. You should be able
to down load it from their site. Be aware that the Sandel 3308 has some "lumps
and bumps" on the top and bottom that need to be considered when arraigning
your vertical spacing.
Contact off line me if you can use a .dxf file.
Richard Reynolds, RV-6A
C J Heitman wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
>
> Does anyone know where I can find a dimensioned drawing of the proper panel
> cutout for a 3-ATI instrument (as used on items such as a Sandel HSI - a
> square cutout with the corners cut at 45 degrees). No luck with an archive
> search or with a google search.
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
> ---
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | For Sale: New Rapco Vacuum Pump & Guage |
--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
Hello-
I have a vacuum pump on my engine and don't need the
vacuum guage.
New - Rapco 215CC - Equiv Spruce # 10-23925 and Price:
$275
New - 1 inch Vacuum Guage - Equiv Spruce #10-01100 and
Price: $55.75
Spruce Price: $330.75
My price: $290/BO
I will pay for shipping-
Please reply off list
Thanks
Dag
Do not archive
=====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Grand Junction, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Don't know what the problem is with doing it Van's way. Follow directions
and it comes out great. Two Nines on the field and they look great. Keep it
simple.
Chuck
Wiring the 'Nine
>
> Here's a quick and dirty page to show the results of using Jim Cone's
> trailing edge rivet method. It's just the left elevator so it's a short
> section. I'm going to do the right elevator probably on Saturday using
> this method and I'll post the continuing results.
>
> http://home.teleport.com/~dianas-rv9a/ConLogE/ConLogE_trailingedge.html
>
> Mike
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
Message 4
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| Subject: | Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
AH-HA! the trail gets longer. Yes, I even had your web page book-marked
and had missed double flush entry (too many book-marks). This is so easy
to do I'm going to show it to Van's on Monday to get their opinion. My
opinion is this belongs in the builder's manual and Avery/Cleveland/et al
can make some dough selling angle squeezer dies.
Mike
At 01:30 2003-08-09 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Todd Houg <thoug@attglobal.net>
>
>Micheal,
>
>That technique works great! I discovered that technique about 2 1/2 years
>ago when I was building my -9 rudder. I'm not sure if Jim picked it up
>from my page or thought it up himself - brilliant minds think alike you
>know! (Now isn't that arrogant! ;o) ) I recently borrowed my modified set
>to another -9 builder to do the same. You can use it for the flaps and
>ailerons(on a -9) also because they use the same AEX wedge with the same angle.
>
>There's more details on my website at www.toddhoug.com - select "Squeezing
>double flush rivets" from the menu window on the left.
>
>Good Luck,
> Todd Houg
> 90196 - slow slow build
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael McGee
>Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:30 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
>.until you read this!
>Control surfaces that use the AEX wedge and double flush trailing edge
>rivets --7, 8, 9 rudders and 9 elevators and ailerons.
>
>The article that Jim Cone put on the RV-Lists photo share on July 29th is
>worth its weight in gold..or at least its weight in tail feather skins! If
>you are going to do your rudder or elevators this weekend DON'T UNTIL YOU
>READ JIM'S CONE'S ARTICLE!
>
>I just finished one of my elevator trailing edges for the -9A this
>afternoon and you almost can't tell which is the shop head and which is the
>manufactured head on the rivets! I'll post some pictures later tonight,
>IT'S REALLY THAT GOOD. There is a dark cloud to this silver lining..now
>I'm going to have to buy new rudder skins so my TAIL FEATHERS WILL MATCH.
>
>It was posted in a photo share last week. Here is a copy:
>
>A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Jim Cone <jimnbev@olypen.com>
>
>RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
>
> Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
>
>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.html
>
>
>Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
>13B in gestation mode
>
>
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>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing / switching tanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Isnt the whole point of doing these steep approaches to give you enough
altitude to make the runway should the engine quit? So in the rare
situation that the engine runs rough (or even quits)due to fuel starvation,
it shouldnt matter.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, finish kit
Chicago/Louisville
Message 6
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| Subject: | RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Sorry but I have to agree here. If you are careful & patient, you can end
up with a good edge. I did the T/E of my rudder with NO proseal, and it's
riveted the "old fashioned" way, and with a 6' straight edge on it, I can't
see any waves anywhere. The rivets came out as good as any squeezed ones,
and I think it looks nearly perfect. I'll put it up against the squeezed
ones any day. Took about 8hrs total to build the rudder. Anyway, I'm not
bragging, just want to make sure that those who don't have an air squeezer
won't get too afraid, because it can be done and many have done it
successfully, and it doesn't take an earth moving miracle to get it right
(couldn't if I did it)!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6-N664SB/130 Hrs.
RV6-N64YU (with a -7 tail) finishing.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Subject: Re: RV-List: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Don't know what the problem is with doing it Van's way. Follow directions
and it comes out great. Two Nines on the field and they look great. Keep it
simple.
Chuck
Wiring the 'Nine
Message 7
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| Subject: | Panel Layout -- IFR requirements? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
-listers,
Amen to this!
". . .All the regulations and anecdotes should be carefully combed for
useful, simple-ideas that help us evolve. 99% of what we KNOW about the
certified experience is of no value in this regard except to acknowledge
that they're not doing it right. Let us concentrate on deducing what
makes us look like really good pilots because our airplanes are free of
disappointments. Bob (Nuckolls). . ."
Now. . .I want to be able to fly my RV-8 legal IFR (no, I don't intend
to fly in bad weather, just be able to file, etc.) I've already been
through the "paper charts" thing, and yes, I'll have them in the cockpit
and they'll be up to date. We've designed the Dual Alt/Dual Batt system
around Bob's same in Aeroelectric Connection. We're using The EFIS-One
with EFIS-Lite backup on different busses. We have the Apollo SL-30
Nav/Com with CDI indicator. We have the Microair 760 VHF radio for
backup on a separate bus. We also have a back seat repeater display for
the EFIS-One (wife insisted). We can put the display power on a
different bus than the front display also. The part where we differ in
interpretation of the FARs is that some say you must have a wet compass.
As I read the reg, it just says "magnetic heading indicator" and the
solid state magnetometers with the EFIS-One/EFIS-Lite are just that, so
if someone can show me why/how I must have a wet compass, I'll change my
interpretation, but until then, the two (separate magnetometers) fit the
bill nicely. Of course I will also have the Microair transponder with
encoder with a lovely cable set made by Bob. By the way, with the
EFIS-One/EFIS-Lite, we'll have two electronic skid/slip indicators and
two independent turn coordinators with automatic standard rate turn
indicators. Have I forgotten anything else I need for legal IFR?
Thanks in advance.
Ken Brooks
RV-8QB in progress
N1903P reserved
How fortunate for governments that the people do not think -- Adolf
Hitler
Message 8
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| Subject: | RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Didn't use an air squeezer it's a hand unit from Avery.
At 11:21 2003-08-09 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Sorry but I have to agree here. If you are careful & patient, you can end
>up with a good edge. I did the T/E of my rudder with NO proseal, and it's
>riveted the "old fashioned" way, and with a 6' straight edge on it, I can't
>see any waves anywhere. The rivets came out as good as any squeezed ones,
>and I think it looks nearly perfect. I'll put it up against the squeezed
>ones any day. Took about 8hrs total to build the rudder. Anyway, I'm not
>bragging, just want to make sure that those who don't have an air squeezer
>won't get too afraid, because it can be done and many have done it
>successfully, and it doesn't take an earth moving miracle to get it right
>(couldn't if I did it)!
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6-N664SB/130 Hrs.
>RV6-N64YU (with a -7 tail) finishing.
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RESULTS-Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
>
>Don't know what the problem is with doing it Van's way. Follow directions
>and it comes out great. Two Nines on the field and they look great. Keep it
>simple.
>Chuck
>Wiring the 'Nine
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Low fuel level indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
I personally would not need a light to tell me what I already would be
well aware of. I am constantly monitoring my fuel status, switching
tanks every 30 minutes and plan my fuel stops with a good reserve,
partly because I have about a 2-2.5 hour butt. Even without a fuel flow
meter, my estimates of how much fuel I will take on at my stops is
always very close. I guess a redundant system, the light, is OK, but not
really necessary if you are paying attention to your fuel consumption.
If you are cutting fuel quantity/reserve close enough you need a fuel
light to tell you so, perhaps a change in flying technique/flight
planning should also be considered.
IMHO only.
Michael
Message 10
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| Subject: | grommet question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
On my IO-360, I had to replace the hose that runs up from the fuel injection
controller to the spider. The new hose is thinner than the old hose, so the
grommet I was using in the lower baffling (AN931-12-17 or MS35489-20) is too
big (ID is too big, that is). The old hose was 3/4" (thus -12), but the new
hose is 9/16". They don't make an AN931-9-17 that I can find.
I'm just curious if there's a simple solution for this, like wrapping
something around the hose where it passes through the grommet in order to
build the OD up to 3/4", or whether it's just a matter of getting out the
high-temp silicone and filling the gap with it (seems really cheesy to do
that).
Does anybody know of a rubber grommet with:
- ID = 9/16" or 5/8"
- hole size = 1" or 1 1/16"
I guess I could replace that lower baffling (and drill a smaller grommet
hole in the new one) as a last resort, but I'd like to avoid that if
possible.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one uses?
Roger.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: grommet question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> controller to the spider. The new hose is thinner than the old hose, so
the
And not to worry...the hose ID hasn't changed, just the outside is thinner!
Still a -4 hose with firesleeve, just a different manufacturer.
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 13
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| Subject: | EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
--> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick@cox.net>
I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio Avionics
(<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the Navaid
AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo).
Hi Tom
Had a quick look at their web site and it looks like the one (essential to
me) thing it cannot do is provide turn & bank info.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Low fuel level indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Michael,
I suppose we all learn more from our own experiences than we do from what
other people tell us, and I'm pleased to know that you are constantly aware
of just how much fuel you have left, no matter what else is going on in the
cockpit. I have always been perhaps overly conservative about having enough
fuel, but there was one incident in my low time but many year flying history
where circumstances outside the cockpit put me in a seriously low fuel
situation and a low fuel warning light gave me a reliable benchmark as to
just how much trouble I was in. "flying technique/flight planning" had
nothing to do with it.
So let me ask again: Has anyone had any experience with the optical low
fuel warning system from aircraftextras.com?
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kosta Lewis
Subject: RE: RV-List: Low fuel level indicator
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
I personally would not need a light to tell me what I already would be
well aware of. I am constantly monitoring my fuel status, switching
tanks every 30 minutes and plan my fuel stops with a good reserve,
partly because I have about a 2-2.5 hour butt. Even without a fuel flow
meter, my estimates of how much fuel I will take on at my stops is
always very close. I guess a redundant system, the light, is OK, but not
really necessary if you are paying attention to your fuel consumption.
If you are cutting fuel quantity/reserve close enough you need a fuel
light to tell you so, perhaps a change in flying technique/flight
planning should also be considered.
IMHO only.
Michael
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Roger:
For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts cleanup
prior to priming throughout my project with very good results. A bit
cheaper too.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one uses?
> Roger.
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Help KMA-20 Radio |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6HES@comcast.net
Listers: searching for a pin out diagram for a King KMA-20 audio panel. Any
help appreciated.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6AQB flying
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit shipped
Thursday.
Regards,
Don Mei
Message 18
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| Subject: | LED position lights in the wingtip |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BillDube@killacycle.com" <BillDube@killacycle.com>
I unwrapped a wingtip, trimmed the plexiglass to fit, slipped the LED
position light in place and took a picture. Pretty nifty looking if I do
say so myself. :-) Put the picture up on the web page:
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
I also posted the assembly manual for the lights at:
http://www.killacycle.com/Instructions.htm
Looking forward,
Bill Dube'
Bill Dube'
2244 Grape Street
Denver, Colorado
80207
(303) 329-9158 (evening)
(303) 497-3933 (day)
(303) 859-1592 (cellular)
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
I am fitting my cowl (RV-8A) and I noticed that the distance between
the top of the number 2 cylinder and the cowl top is much less than
the number one cylinder and the cowl, is this normal? The distance
on the left side is a little over the width of my index finger.
How do I leave a gap of 1/2" between the cowl and the top of the
baffle?
If I rotate the cowl counter clockwise (looking aft) I can get a
little more space over No. 2 BUT, the distance measured from the shop
floor to the cowl inlet is an inch higher on the left side compared
to the right. It appears that this would leave the running uphill
from left to right (looking aft). I originally set the cowl up by
measuring from the shop floor to the same location on each inlet. I
adjusted the cowl to get the same dimension on each inlet so that
they would be perfectly horizontal.
I was planning on leaving the top of the cowl flush with the spinner
to allow for some settling. The drawing calls for the cowl to be
1/8" higher than the spinner; I could do that but what happens when
the engine settles? Further, raising the cowl 1/8" really doesn't
help the spacing over No. 2 much.
There is a little more space between the engine and the side of the
cowl on the right than the left also. I have been told that the
motor mount is offset a little to account for asymmetrical thrust so
I suppose that explains the lateral spacing difference.
I don't want to run into problems down the road when I start trimming
the baffles so I am holding off drilling the cowl until someone can
help me resolve this issue.
ANY HELP OUT THERE???? PLEASE!
Vince Welch
Message 20
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| Subject: | Lightspeed ignition model opinions? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Gonna break down and buy a Lightspeed, especially now that I'm starting to
show signs of a bad mag. (I have no idea which one)
I know this has been discussed ad-nauseum, but I want to get some current
opinions on the various Lightspeed models. Please comment if you are flying
with a lightspeed, particularly if your installation is recent.
a few things:
1] Regarding sensor type; other than installation ease; is there any benefit
between the direct crank sensor vs. the in-the-mag-hole sensor?
(performance, accuracy, maintenance needs, etc???)
Is mounting the flywheel type sensor particularly problematic or is it as
simple as drilling a hole and sticking in the magnet? (How does the magnet
fasten in the hole?)
Any other installation or set-up surprises? (other than having to go find a
T for the MP line?) Does it work well right out of the box, or is it going
to take a lot of cowl pulling and adjustments?
2] For those with the 2-Plus or 3 versions that come with an assortment of
cockpit monitoring guages: I already have a tach and MP, so the extra $150
is just for the spark advance display. Is this really a useful piece of
information or is it just another flashing light that you never really look
at.
And also, I guess the standard model includes a switch that replaces the
key. Any comments about that?
3] I've heard performance improvement claims as much as 8 hp, particularly
at high altitudes which is where I fly. Can anyone testify to this? Such a
big jump may mean that the next $1000 surprise will be needing a new higher
pitch prop.
Thanks,
Andy
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
shipped
> Thursday.
>
> Regards,
>
> Don Mei
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Ron:
I was told 12 weeks when I ordered mine at Oshkosh.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
Dynon order 423
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
>
> What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
>
> Ron
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> >
> > For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
> shipped
> > Thursday.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Don Mei
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
The wait time is probably a moving target. From what I can tell from
monitoring e-mail lists, #40 shipped in late March, #269 shipped on
July 9th, and now we have #351 shipped on August 7th. That's an
average of about 20 shipped per week in the last month. They
supposedly are trying to ramp up to 30 per week.
I ordered mine on about June 24th, and my number is 367. They told
me to expect it to ship in September, but at the rate they are going
it could ship around the end of August. That would make about a nine
week lead time for me. But I'm betting they took a lot of orders at
OSH, so the backlog may have increased.
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
>
>What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
>
>Ron
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>>
>> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
>shipped
>> Thursday.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Don Mei
> >
>>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed ignition model opinions? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BPattonsoa@aol.com
Been flying the mag replacement version, simple without all the adds for
about 100 hr. I wired a switch into my panel for an electronic system with the
original construction. I labeled it "spare" for the FAA so they gave me the
minimum certified engine hours to fly off. Had a keyed ignition switch with two
mag positions, so one of the positions became non functional. Installation
took about 6 hours, including mounting the box inside the cabin on standoffs.
I
lost the throw of the dice and had to reverse the wires otherwise the system
worked right from the second start and was timed just right. Setting the
"mag" was far too simple.
Noticed a 2-3 knot increase in 2300 rpm cruise and some drop in fuel flow.
Leaning became much more sensitive. (I have noticed that you can get a false
lean at very low EGTs at high altitudes. Before I figured out that my mag
wires were reversed from initial construction (me), I thought that the rpm drop
when switching the mag off was 0. After doing a mea cupa on that, I get 10-20
rpm drop with the mag off (VMS instrument system), and the usual 120-160
turning off the ignition system.
Highly recommend.
Bruce Patton
-6A flying (a lot)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Off Airport Landing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Cash, I like Kevin have to give you top marks for posting your incident to the
list. These are the kind of posts that lead to a genuine safety related discussion.
I would like to add some observations and practices that I have used in
the twelve years I have been flying my RV 6.
You mentioned that you thought it may have been carb ice. When I built the 6 I
had some concerns about the low output of the rather small heat muff for a dedicated
source of carb heat. I did a series of tests on carb icing and the following
was the results. Engine was a carb equipped 0360 swinging a Hartzell CS.
and a cross over exhaust system. No ice could be generated except under the most
severe conditions and then it was slow to accumulate and was easily handled
by the use of the alternate air source. Because the carb is bolted directly
to the engine sump and receives a lot of heat transfer plus a tremendous amount
of heat is generated in this area by the cross-over exhausts I am convinced
that the combination of the two make this Lycoming installation the most carb
ice resistant I have flown with.
Aircraft with the carb mounted separately creates a entirely different situation.
I use the manifold pressure gauge for my carb ice indicator, if ice starts to accumulate
the manifold pressure will start to drop and immediately apply carb
heat (alternate air) then under these conditions just leave it on. If conditions
warrant it select heat when starting decent and leave it on.
As for fuel management the rules I have established are as follows, I never take-off
with less than half tanks and never land with less than 1 1/2 hours fuel
on board and never switch tanks below 1000 ft. This was after riding with a
friend in a fuel injected installation,he blew a tank and it used up the best
part of a thousand feet to get things going again.
I am now running with fuel injection and in the tests I have done there is no fuel
pressure drop with or without the boost pump while switching. I fly 1/2 hour
out of each side and the switch is done with boost pump on, switch while monitoring
the fuel pressure to make sure there is no drop then boost pump of. I
have never had it happen on the RV but if the fuel pressure dropped even a pound
of two I would immediately go back to the other tank and find out what the
problem was.
Still use my old airforce check list (GUMP) for the arrivals and it is still keeping
me out of trouble.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
That's some nice work and documentation!
I used a slightly different method, it may even be the one mentioned in the
planes (can't quite remember) but I thought I'd share it anyway... 8-)
We clecoed every hole on the rudder. We used the 2x rivet gun and the back
rivet plate for this process.
Next we inserted a rivet in the middle of the trailing edge and set it only
enough to get it started, just one or two taps. We then partially set the
next rivet going out to the fifth hole from the first rivet we set (starting
from the middle and working our way out towards both of the ends and the
same time). So do one skip to the fifth, then the fifth one down on the
other side. Go back and forth from the middle until both ends are reached.
This is only a partially set rivet remember.
Next we did the same thing starting from the middle rivet with every third
rivet to both ends. We alternated on each side so we reached both ends
evenly (we didn't go from the middle rivet to one end and then the middle
rivet to the other end). Again this is with a partially set rivet.
The same process was used to set the remaining rivets (which would now be
every-other rivet, in line). Again this is only partially set.
Once all of the rivets were partially set we repeated the process by doing a
final set of the rivet. Starting in the middle and going every fifth rivet
in both directions, then every third rivet, then the final remaining (every
other) rivet.
The end result was a beautiful smooth straight line that looked great on
either side (couldn't tell the machined from the shop head) and no use of
pro-seal was needed to keep everything in place.
Bob Hassel
RV9A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Michael McGee
Subject: RE: RV-List: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
AH-HA! the trail gets longer. Yes, I even had your web page book-marked
and had missed double flush entry (too many book-marks). This is so easy
to do I'm going to show it to Van's on Monday to get their opinion. My
opinion is this belongs in the builder's manual and Avery/Cleveland/et al
can make some dough selling angle squeezer dies.
Mike
At 01:30 2003-08-09 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Todd Houg <thoug@attglobal.net>
>
>Micheal,
>
>That technique works great! I discovered that technique about 2 1/2 years
>ago when I was building my -9 rudder. I'm not sure if Jim picked it up
>from my page or thought it up himself - brilliant minds think alike you
>know! (Now isn't that arrogant! ;o) ) I recently borrowed my modified set
>to another -9 builder to do the same. You can use it for the flaps and
>ailerons(on a -9) also because they use the same AEX wedge with the same
angle.
>
>There's more details on my website at www.toddhoug.com - select "Squeezing
>double flush rivets" from the menu window on the left.
>
>Good Luck,
> Todd Houg
> 90196 - slow slow build
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael McGee
>Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:30 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Empennage/Aileron builders--STOP
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
>.until you read this!
>Control surfaces that use the AEX wedge and double flush trailing edge
>rivets --7, 8, 9 rudders and 9 elevators and ailerons.
>
>The article that Jim Cone put on the RV-Lists photo share on July 29th is
>worth its weight in gold..or at least its weight in tail feather skins! If
>you are going to do your rudder or elevators this weekend DON'T UNTIL YOU
>READ JIM'S CONE'S ARTICLE!
>
>I just finished one of my elevator trailing edges for the -9A this
>afternoon and you almost can't tell which is the shop head and which is the
>manufactured head on the rivets! I'll post some pictures later tonight,
>IT'S REALLY THAT GOOD. There is a dark cloud to this silver lining..now
>I'm going to have to buy new rudder skins so my TAIL FEATHERS WILL MATCH.
>
>It was posted in a photo share last week. Here is a copy:
>
>A new Email List Photo Share is available:
>
> Poster: Jim Cone <jimnbev@olypen.com>
>
>RV-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List
>
> Subject: Nice Straight Edge...
>
>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/jimnbev@olypen.com.07.29.2003/index.htm
l
>
>
>Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
>13B in gestation mode
>
>
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>AAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAARhQAAAAAAAAMAGoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABiFAAAAAAA
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A
>AAAAAAAAHgA9AAEAAAAFAAAAUkU6IAAAAAADAA00/TcAALG1
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh RV-6 accident |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
It is my understanding that they boxed it up and drove it back home.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven Eberhart" <newtech@newtech.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh RV-6 accident
> --> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
>
> Has anyone heard what they did with Van's red demonstrator RV-6 that was
> involved in the runway accident at Oshkosh? Just curious if they are
> going to replace the wing in the workshop at Pioneer field. Possibly
> borrow a wing from the EAA young eagles RV-6 so they could ferry it home?
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7A - working on wings
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Where to buy - Govenor oil line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
=0D
Hi listers,=0D
=0D
Need to know where to buy a govenor oil line for an 0-360. Was at vans
yesterday and they do not carry them.=0D
=0D
Tim=0D
RV-6 N616TB
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Where to buy - Govenor oil line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Aerosport sells them, I think. http://www.aerosportpower.com/
I bought some flex hose and ends and made it myself. Tested it at the
local FBO. It wasn't difficult.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
> =0D
> Hi listers,=0D
> =0D
> Need to know where to buy a govenor oil line for an 0-360.
> Was at vans yesterday and they do not carry them.=0D =0D
> Tim=0D RV-6 N616TB
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Congrats.
Has anyone received a replacement battery for their Dynon yet? Still
waiting on mine.......
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Donald Mei [mailto:don_mei@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 2:47 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and
> my unit shipped
> Thursday.
>
> Regards,
>
> Don Mei
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Off Airport Landing |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
Thanks Eustace, thought carb ice was the problem, now I'm not so sure. I am
going to check the fuel system very carefully when I get back to Hollister.
After the recovery it started right up. That doesn't mean that everything is
OK.
Cash
In a message dated 8/9/2003 3:16:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ebowhay@jetstream.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
>
> Cash, I like Kevin have to give you top marks for posting your incident to
> the list. These are the kind of posts that lead to a genuine safety related
> discussion. I would like to add some observations and practices that I have
> used in the twelve years I have been flying my RV 6.
>
> You mentioned that you thought it may have been carb ice. When I built the 6
> I had some concerns about the low output of the rather small heat muff for a
> dedicated source of carb heat. I did a series of tests on carb icing and the
> following was the results. Engine was a carb equipped 0360 swinging a
> Hartzell CS. and a cross over exhaust system. No ice could be generated except
> under the most severe conditions and then it was slow to accumulate and was
> easily handled by the use of the alternate air source. Because the carb is bolted
> directly to the engine sump and receives a lot of heat transfer plus a
> tremendous amount of heat is generated in this area by the cross-over exhausts
I
> am convinced that the combination of the two make this Lycoming installation
> the most carb ice resistant I have flown with.
>
> Aircraft with the carb mounted separately creates a entirely different
> situation.
>
> I use the manifold pressure gauge for my carb ice indicator, if ice starts
> to accumulate the manifold pressure will start to drop and immediately apply
> carb heat (alternate air) then under these conditions just leave it on. If
> conditions warrant it select heat when starting decent and leave it on.
>
> As for fuel management the rules I have established are as follows, I never
> take-off with less than half tanks and never land with less than 1 1/2 hours
> fuel on board and never switch tanks below 1000 ft. This was after riding
> with a friend in a fuel injected installation,he blew a tank and it used up the
> best part of a thousand feet to get things going again.
>
> I am now running with fuel injection and in the tests I have done there is
> no fuel pressure drop with or without the boost pump while switching. I fly
> 1/2 hour out of each side and the switch is done with boost pump on, switch
> while monitoring the fuel pressure to make sure there is no drop then boost pump
> of. I have never had it happen on the RV but if the fuel pressure dropped
> even a pound of two I would immediately go back to the other tank and find out
> what the problem was.
>
> Still use my old airforce check list (GUMP) for the arrivals and it is still
> keeping me out of trouble.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I spoke with Dynon on Friday, they say my replacement battery and
magnetometer shipped out Thursday afternoon. I was order #199.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Where to buy - Govenor oil line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
If you want to use a hose instead, I highly recommend Precision Hose
Technology: http://www.aircrafthose.com Good people and good prices.
Other than that, for Lycoming parts maybe try Sacramento Sky Ranch?
http://www.sacskyranch.com
Hope this helps,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Subject: RV-List: Where to buy - Govenor oil line
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
> =0D
> Hi listers,=0D
> =0D
> Need to know where to buy a govenor oil line for an 0-360. Was at vans
> yesterday and they do not carry them.=0D
> =0D
> Tim=0D
> RV-6 N616TB
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I got my replacement battery last week. I also got the remote compass. All
set to go now...well, that is once that USB-to-serial adapter I just ordered
arrives...oh yeah, and I have to finish building this plane, and THEN I'll
be all set to go. 8-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> Congrats.
>
> Has anyone received a replacement battery for their Dynon yet? Still
> waiting on mine.......
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
> 2003 - The year of flight!
> Do not archive
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Donald Mei [mailto:don_mei@hotmail.com]
> > Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 2:47 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> >
> > For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and
> > my unit shipped
> > Thursday.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Don Mei
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Uhhh, has anyone else had this thought: sounds like an awful lot of people
are building IFR RV's out there with all these Dynons being ordered. This
is a good thing, if true.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> The wait time is probably a moving target. From what I can tell from
> monitoring e-mail lists, #40 shipped in late March, #269 shipped on
> July 9th, and now we have #351 shipped on August 7th. That's an
> average of about 20 shipped per week in the last month. They
> supposedly are trying to ramp up to 30 per week.
>
> I ordered mine on about June 24th, and my number is 367. They told
> me to expect it to ship in September, but at the rate they are going
> it could ship around the end of August. That would make about a nine
> week lead time for me. But I'm betting they took a lot of orders at
> OSH, so the backlog may have increased.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
> >
> >What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
> >
> >Ron
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> >>
> >> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
> >shipped
> >> Thursday.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Don Mei
> > >
> >>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | MK-319-BS Shank Size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Anyone know what the shank size of the MK-319-BS rivet is? I'm a little perplexed,
seems like every bit I've tried is either slightly larger or slightly smaller
for this rivet. I don't want a dimple that's too deep and hole that's too
large. I called Vans and they said it was a 7/32. So either I'm looking at an
entirely wrong blind rivet or Vans misunderstood my question. A 7/32 is gigantic
compared to what I'm looking at as a MK-319-BS rivet.
These are the four blind rivets you use on the trailing edge of the elevator near
the trim tab, you can't get to this using a normal rivet.
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A QB
Message 37
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| Subject: | Empennage Fiberglass tip questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I'm getting ready to do the glass work for my empennage and I've read posts about
builders attaching a thin piece of aluminum on the inside with epoxy before
placing the blind rivet. What is a good epoxy to use to attach the aluminum strip?
Any pictures or web links to do the empennage glass work would be greatly
appreciated.
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A QB
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: grommet question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Why not make an overlay patch with the proper hole for the obtainable
grommet? It could be an oval that could be riveted over the old over size
hole.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: grommet question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> On my IO-360, I had to replace the hose that runs up from the fuel
injection
> controller to the spider. The new hose is thinner than the old hose, so
the
> grommet I was using in the lower baffling (AN931-12-17 or MS35489-20) is
too
> big (ID is too big, that is). The old hose was 3/4" (thus -12), but the
new
> hose is 9/16". They don't make an AN931-9-17 that I can find.
>
> I'm just curious if there's a simple solution for this, like wrapping
> something around the hose where it passes through the grommet in order to
> build the OD up to 3/4", or whether it's just a matter of getting out the
> high-temp silicone and filling the gap with it (seems really cheesy to do
> that).
>
> Does anybody know of a rubber grommet with:
>
> - ID = 9/16" or 5/8"
> - hole size = 1" or 1 1/16"
>
> I guess I could replace that lower baffling (and drill a smaller grommet
> hole in the new one) as a last resort, but I'd like to avoid that if
> possible.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: grommet question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
I think that I'd just rivit a patch over the hole and make a new hole.
Dave
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>On my IO-360, I had to replace the hose that runs up from the fuel injection
>controller to the spider. The new hose is thinner than the old hose, so the
>grommet I was using in the lower baffling (AN931-12-17 or MS35489-20) is too
>big (ID is too big, that is). The old hose was 3/4" (thus -12), but the new
>hose is 9/16". They don't make an AN931-9-17 that I can find.
>
>I'm just curious if there's a simple solution for this, like wrapping
>something around the hose where it passes through the grommet in order to
>build the OD up to 3/4", or whether it's just a matter of getting out the
>high-temp silicone and filling the gap with it (seems really cheesy to do
>that).
>
>Does anybody know of a rubber grommet with:
>
>- ID = 9/16" or 5/8"
>- hole size = 1" or 1 1/16"
>
>I guess I could replace that lower baffling (and drill a smaller grommet
>hole in the new one) as a last resort, but I'd like to avoid that if
>possible.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Since I will be moving to my QB wings shortly I purchased the Cleaveland wing tip attach kit (WHS-220) http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberWHS220&variation&aitem1&mitem1
After receiving the kit I was surprised that these are only #4 screws. This seems
very small to attach the wing tip? Instructions say to just soft rivet plate
nuts directly to the fiberglass the screw in.
I feel pretty silly now paying $44.00 plus shipping for what looks like $3.00 worth
of soft rivets, plate nuts and screws. Is this really a good way to go? Is
it going to go the distance to hold the wingtips securely for years to come?
I'm not slamming Cleaveland here their great guys with great service and they are
always excellent to deal with. I'm just wondering if I bought the right thing
in this case.
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA
RV-7A QB
And yes, I've been busy in the garage lately. I just didn't want to pile 50 questions
in to one mail. Thanks everyone!
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Well, Lyle Hefel uses the #4 screw for his wing tips and so did the Bronze
Lindy winner Greg Klema. They look nice and are unobtrusive.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> Since I will be moving to my QB wings shortly I purchased the Cleaveland
wing tip attach kit (WHS-220)
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberWHS220&variatio
n&aitem1&mitem1
> After receiving the kit I was surprised that these are only #4 screws.
This seems very small to attach the wing tip? Instructions say to just soft
rivet plate nuts directly to the fiberglass the screw in.
>
> I feel pretty silly now paying $44.00 plus shipping for what looks like
$3.00 worth of soft rivets, plate nuts and screws. Is this really a good way
to go? Is it going to go the distance to hold the wingtips securely for
years to come?
>
> I'm not slamming Cleaveland here their great guys with great service and
they are always excellent to deal with. I'm just wondering if I bought the
right thing in this case.
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A QB
>
> And yes, I've been busy in the garage lately. I just didn't want to pile
50 questions in to one mail. Thanks everyone!
>
>
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Van's Oil Pressure Guage Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
Many of you in the past have stated that Van's oil pressure sender needs to be
grounded better than that provided by the anodized aluminum manifold block it
mounts on. My question is, how have you guys been acheiving a better ground? I
am presently getting around a 40-45 PSI indication regardless of RPM's. The oil
line going to the sending unit is filled with fluid, so that solution has already
been applied, resulting in about a 5-7 PSI increase. Has anyone been using
these guages for a while now and is acheiving good reliability? From all
that is in the archives, one has to wonder. Thanks in advance for any help.
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Yes it is a great system and yes you made the right choice. MUCH better
look than the larger screws I have seen. I suggest getting a second set
of screws as they are easily stripped but look and work GREAT. Mine have
stayed stuck on for over 700 hours. Which is, I guess, years and years.
IMHO, of course.
Michael
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Frankly that is the last place I would put one, in an IFR RV.
That is a bad thing IMO if true.
Jerry
do not archive
Pat Hatch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
>Uhhh, has anyone else had this thought: sounds like an awful lot of people
>are building IFR RV's out there with all these Dynons being ordered. This
>is a good thing, if true.
>
>do not archive
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4
>RV-6
>RV-7 QB (Building)
>Vero Beach, FL
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>>
>>The wait time is probably a moving target. From what I can tell from
>>monitoring e-mail lists, #40 shipped in late March, #269 shipped on
>>July 9th, and now we have #351 shipped on August 7th. That's an
>>average of about 20 shipped per week in the last month. They
>>supposedly are trying to ramp up to 30 per week.
>>
>>I ordered mine on about June 24th, and my number is 367. They told
>>me to expect it to ship in September, but at the rate they are going
>>it could ship around the end of August. That would make about a nine
>>week lead time for me. But I'm betting they took a lot of orders at
>>OSH, so the backlog may have increased.
>>
>>Kevin Horton
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
>>>
>>>What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
>>>
>>>Ron
>>>
>>>----- Original Message -----
>>>From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>>Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>>>>
>>>> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
>>>>
>>>>
>>>shipped
>>>
>>>
>>>> Thursday.
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>> Don Mei
>>>>
>>>>
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Re: MK-319-BS Shank Size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Karie,
This on-line reference chart puts it at between a #32 and #33
drill size (2.9 mm)
http://www.emhart.com/products/pop/nickel2.htm
However, a 7/64 drill is only 0.005 in. under the rivet size,
and drilling by hand, so the rivet would probably fit...
A different manufacturers cross reference chart is here...
http://www.marshallsales.com/products/compchart2.htm
gil in Tucson
At 06:01 PM 8/9/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
>Anyone know what the shank size of the MK-319-BS rivet is? I'm a little
>perplexed, seems like every bit I've tried is either slightly larger or
>slightly smaller for this rivet. I don't want a dimple that's too deep and
>hole that's too large. I called Vans and they said it was a 7/32. So
>either I'm looking at an entirely wrong blind rivet or Vans misunderstood
>my question. A 7/32 is gigantic compared to what I'm looking at as a
>MK-319-BS rivet.
>
>These are the four blind rivets you use on the trailing edge of the
>elevator near the trim tab, you can't get to this using a normal rivet.
>
>Karie Daniel
>Sammamish, WA
>RV-7A QB
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re:MK-319-BS Shank Size |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I found that a 9/64" bit works well with these rivets. I just tossed the
drill bit into the plastic drawer with the rivets,so I don't have to look for it
each time.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Oil Pressure Guage Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
My first one was bad out of the box. The second sender lasted 190 hours
and is now getting flaky. If I were to do it over I'd use a direct
reading mechanical gage since I've seen too many bad senders on cars as
well as aircraft. Of course, I'll undoubtedly get flamed again for
voicing my opinion on this, but just take one apart and look at it for
yourself - you'll probably come to the same conclusion that I did.
Dave Bristol, RV6, So Cal, EAA Technical Counselor
DAVID DAVENPORT wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
>
>Many of you in the past have stated that Van's oil pressure sender needs to be
grounded better than that provided by the anodized aluminum manifold block it
mounts on. My question is, how have you guys been acheiving a better ground?
I am presently getting around a 40-45 PSI indication regardless of RPM's. The
oil line going to the sending unit is filled with fluid, so that solution has
already been applied, resulting in about a 5-7 PSI increase. Has anyone been
using these guages for a while now and is acheiving good reliability? From all
that is in the archives, one has to wonder. Thanks in advance for any help.
>
>
>
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I guess that's good enough for me then. :-)
Thanks, I just wanted to make sure this was nice way to go. Just seems too
easy to me I guess!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Well, Lyle Hefel uses the #4 screw for his wing tips and so did the Bronze
> Lindy winner Greg Klema. They look nice and are unobtrusive.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> >
> > Since I will be moving to my QB wings shortly I purchased the Cleaveland
> wing tip attach kit (WHS-220)
>
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberWHS220&variatio
> n&aitem1&mitem1
> > After receiving the kit I was surprised that these are only #4 screws.
> This seems very small to attach the wing tip? Instructions say to just
soft
> rivet plate nuts directly to the fiberglass the screw in.
> >
> > I feel pretty silly now paying $44.00 plus shipping for what looks like
> $3.00 worth of soft rivets, plate nuts and screws. Is this really a good
way
> to go? Is it going to go the distance to hold the wingtips securely for
> years to come?
> >
> > I'm not slamming Cleaveland here their great guys with great service and
> they are always excellent to deal with. I'm just wondering if I bought the
> right thing in this case.
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Sammamish, WA
> > RV-7A QB
> >
> > And yes, I've been busy in the garage lately. I just didn't want to pile
> 50 questions in to one mail. Thanks everyone!
> >
> >
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Trio Avionics digital autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
I've come to know these guys quite well during the last year.
Good honest people with a very good looking product. There's going to be one in
my panel.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
Date: Fri, 08 Aug 2003 22:52:26 -0000
From: "Thomas Velvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
Subject: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio
Avionics (www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the Navaid AP gyro with
a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you dont
already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo). It
understands the NMEA sentence format from handheld GPSs as well as
the aviation format sentence from panelmount GPSs. This means you
can get rid of your smart coupler to connect a handheld gps. Since
the EZ Pilot reads the complete sentence output from the GPS it knows
exactly where it is in relation to the waypoints, not just the cross
track error like the Navaid uses. This allows it to fly the flight
plan and anticipate each waypoint as well as to fly intercepts and
course reversals. The AP also has a two line digital display that
shows several parameters at one time such as ETE, GPS groundspeed,
Distance to Waypoint, ETC. In actual practice, my EZ Pilot AP is now
working excellent and handles turbulence better than the Navaid
does. Its also nice to look at the display and see your course
compared to the bearing to the waypoint and the distance in hundredth
of a mile you are off the centerline. It is normally flying within 0
to 50 feet of the centerline. An additional digital gyro module is
being developed as an option for enhanced turbulence control. There
are other features that I havent talked about. So if you are in the
market for a digital autopilot or want to upgrade your Navaid, heres
another option.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
N53KT RV-4
N188KJ RV-6a wiring.
Message 50
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
Does the K&N filter that comes with Van's FAB kit come pre-oiled? I can't really
tell if it is-it does not appear oily, but the element is not white either.
What kind of oil can I use to be sure it is oiled? Should it be soaked in oil
or sprayed?
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
Message 51
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>>Uhhh, has anyone else had this thought: sounds like an awful lot of
>>people are building IFR RV's out there with all these Dynons being
>>ordered. This is a good thing, if true.
>>
> Frankly that is the last place I would put one, in an IFR RV.
> That is a bad thing IMO if true.
>
>
I don't know much about Dynon's system. However, I do know a lot about
component design and system design. There are a lot of dead guys behind
the evolution of many designs in aviation, airframes and systems. One
does need to be quite humble to where the certified industry has evolved
to over the years. It is very easy to chuck rocks at their "antiquated"
methodology, and jump to new stuff. No problem with VFR, but altogether
different for IFR.
That being said, I am certainly not saying we should not use new
technology. I only caution those who do make leaps of technology to be
very, very aware of how small changes to a design, system, etc., usually
have unforeseen consequences. These unforeseen consequences can be
nasty, and I've never seen a design change that didn't have surprises.
It is quite easy to point to accidents caused by mechanical gyro
failures and conclude we just need to replace them with something else.
Keep in mind, in doing this "analysis", that the area under the
cumulative time in use of vacuum gyros combined with electric TC/TB (for
example) is huge, while the total time the newcomers (Dynon) have is
quite limited, probably one millionth as much time.
Something to think about - the temptation to believe that a design
change will be an overall improvement is overwhelming, but experience
tells otherwise. Systems like Dynon's are clearly where the future is,
but expect turbulence and dead guys along the way.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 337 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 52
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
The charging oil is red. If the filter is dark red, it is good to go.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 337 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> Does the K&N filter that comes with Van's FAB kit come
> pre-oiled? I can't really tell if it is-it does not appear
> oily, but the element is not white either. What kind of oil
> can I use to be sure it is oiled? Should it be soaked in oil
> or sprayed?
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Oshkosh RV-6 accident |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Listers,
I believe it was "our" own Cy Galley who won a "Lifetime Achievement" award
at OSH this year.
Each year, we often hear about planes that won awards but Cy (along with
about four others, including a member of our chapter) got one for doing good
stuff over many years.
Congrats Cy!!
And if I got this wrong ... oh well. :-)
James
(from EAA Chapter 242)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 7:07 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh RV-6 accident
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> It is my understanding that they boxed it up and drove it back home.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steven Eberhart" <newtech@newtech.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh RV-6 accident
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
> >
> > Has anyone heard what they did with Van's red demonstrator RV-6
> that was
> > involved in the runway accident at Oshkosh? Just curious if they are
> > going to replace the wing in the workshop at Pioneer field. Possibly
> > borrow a wing from the EAA young eagles RV-6 so they could
> ferry it home?
> >
> > Steve Eberhart
> > RV-7A - working on wings
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 54
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I received my replacement battery last week, and waiting time was about 2
weeks.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Congrats.
Has anyone received a replacement battery for their Dynon yet? Still
waiting on mine.......
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Donald Mei [mailto:don_mei@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 2:47 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and
> my unit shipped
> Thursday.
>
> Regards,
>
> Don Mei
Message 55
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
My Dynon is going in my "light/cheap" Night/VFR RV6. My flying -6 is IFR,
but has a LOT more stuff than just a dynon, like DME,VOR/ILS/GS,Marker
Beacon,AI,DG,T&B,GPS,etc.. all certified with a variety of vacuum &
electrical for backup.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Pat Hatch
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Uhhh, has anyone else had this thought: sounds like an awful lot of people
are building IFR RV's out there with all these Dynons being ordered. This
is a good thing, if true.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> The wait time is probably a moving target. From what I can tell from
> monitoring e-mail lists, #40 shipped in late March, #269 shipped on
> July 9th, and now we have #351 shipped on August 7th. That's an
> average of about 20 shipped per week in the last month. They
> supposedly are trying to ramp up to 30 per week.
>
> I ordered mine on about June 24th, and my number is 367. They told
> me to expect it to ship in September, but at the rate they are going
> it could ship around the end of August. That would make about a nine
> week lead time for me. But I'm betting they took a lot of orders at
> OSH, so the backlog may have increased.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
> >
> >What seems to be the typical wait time on this unit anyway? I'm curious.
> >
> >Ron
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> >>
> >> For those on the waiting list at Dynon. I am number 351 and my unit
> >shipped
> >> Thursday.
> >>
> >> Regards,
> >>
> >> Don Mei
> > >
> >>
>
>
Message 56
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Yes....it should. If it's red/dark pink, it's oiled. If it's white or
light gray, it needs oiled.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Minneapolis, MN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Ford
Subject: RV-List: FAB filter
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
Does the K&N filter that comes with Van's FAB kit come pre-oiled? I can't
really tell if it is-it does not appear oily, but the element is not white
either. What kind of oil can I use to be sure it is oiled? Should it be
soaked in oil or sprayed?
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
George McNutt wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
>
> Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick@cox.net>
>
> I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio Avionics
> (<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the Navaid
> AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
> dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo).
>
> Hi Tom
>
> Had a quick look at their web site and it looks like the one (essential to
> me) thing it cannot do is provide turn & bank info.
Here is a quote from the web site:
"A convenient Display switch allows the pilot to read the Waypoint
Designator, Ground Speed, Distance to Waypoint, Time to Waypoint, and a
graphic Turn Coordinator."
Sam Buchanan
Message 58
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/9/2003 8:22:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dford@michweb.net writes:
> Does the K&N filter that comes with Van's FAB kit come pre-oiled? I can't
> really tell if it is-it does not appear oily, but the element is not white
> either. What kind of oil can I use to be sure it is oiled? Should it be
> soaked in oil or sprayed?
Yes, it is preoiled and the oil starts out pink but loses its color over
time. In the filter box there should have been instructions for proper cleaning
and reoiling with, surprise, K&N filter oil. It comes in both drip and spray
dispensers and is readily available at motorcycle shops. Do not soak.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
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