Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:08 AM - Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot (George McNutt)
2. 04:02 AM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Kevin Horton)
3. 06:10 AM - Re: Oshkosh RV-6 accident (Cy Galley)
4. 06:42 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (david.keck@amd.com)
5. 06:45 AM - Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot (Jim Oke)
6. 06:55 AM - Re: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
7. 07:00 AM - Re: Re:MK-319-BS Shank Size (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
8. 07:12 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
9. 07:29 AM - Re: Cardinal Paint (Steve Struyk)
10. 08:02 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Gert)
11. 08:03 AM - Re: Dynon and IFR (Donald Mei)
12. 08:14 AM - Re: Tire Wear (Cy Galley)
13. 08:14 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Jeff Orear)
14. 08:15 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Alex Peterson)
15. 08:20 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Jeff Orear)
16. 08:22 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Larry Bowen)
17. 08:26 AM - Re: Van's Oil Pressure Guage Questions ()
18. 08:26 AM - Re: Van's Oil Pressure Guage Questions ()
19. 09:07 AM - Re: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware (Lenleg@aol.com)
20. 09:09 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Jim Oke)
21. 09:19 AM - Max Height of Avionics Stack in -7A Slider (Jack Lockamy)
22. 09:31 AM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (David Burton)
23. 12:32 PM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (kempthornes)
24. 12:39 PM - Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot (Thomas Velvick)
25. 12:59 PM - Re: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware ()
26. 01:08 PM - Re: Re: Dynon and IFR (Gil Alexander)
27. 02:21 PM - Re: Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot (Gary & Carolyn Zilik)
28. 02:22 PM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
29. 02:55 PM - Re: Tire Wear (RV3)
30. 03:43 PM - Re: Re: Dynon and IFR (Patrick)
31. 03:51 PM - Re: Re: Dynon and IFR (Jerry Springer)
32. 04:06 PM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Greg Young)
33. 04:25 PM - Re: MK-319-BS Shank Size? (William Davis)
34. 06:05 PM - Re: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware ()
35. 07:02 PM - Nylon T fitting that goes to break res. (Karie Daniel)
36. 07:03 PM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (Gert)
37. 07:27 PM - pitot tube routing (Dave Ford)
38. 08:02 PM - Re: MK-319-BS Shank Size? (Richard Dudley)
39. 08:10 PM - Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. (David Burton)
40. 08:51 PM - Re: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware (Michael McGee)
41. 08:51 PM - Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear (Michael McGee)
42. 08:54 PM - Control stick bushings (Geoff Evans)
43. 08:59 PM - Used Navaid Test? ()
44. 09:12 PM - Re: pitot tube routing (Jim Oke)
45. 10:08 PM - Re: grommet question (Jim Jewell)
46. 10:08 PM - Re: Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear (RV3)
Message 1
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| Subject: | EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
George McNutt wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
>
> Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick@cox.net>
>
> I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio Avionics
> (<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the
Navaid
> AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
> dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo).
>
> Hi Tom
>
> Had a quick look at their web site and it looks like the one (essential to
> me) thing it cannot do is provide turn & bank info.
Here is a quote from the web site:
"A convenient Display switch allows the pilot to read the Waypoint
Designator, Ground Speed, Distance to Waypoint, Time to Waypoint, and a
graphic Turn Coordinator."
Sam Buchanan
Thanks Sam
I noticed that later when I took a closer look at the web page. Wonder how
the turn info is derived.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
At 22:28 -0500 9/8/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>>
>>>Uhhh, has anyone else had this thought: sounds like an awful lot of
>>>people are building IFR RV's out there with all these Dynons being
>>>ordered. This is a good thing, if true.
>>>
>> Frankly that is the last place I would put one, in an IFR RV.
>> That is a bad thing IMO if true.
>>
>>
>
>I don't know much about Dynon's system. However, I do know a lot about
>component design and system design. There are a lot of dead guys behind
>the evolution of many designs in aviation, airframes and systems. One
>does need to be quite humble to where the certified industry has evolved
>to over the years. It is very easy to chuck rocks at their "antiquated"
>methodology, and jump to new stuff. No problem with VFR, but altogether
>different for IFR.
>
>That being said, I am certainly not saying we should not use new
>technology. I only caution those who do make leaps of technology to be
>very, very aware of how small changes to a design, system, etc., usually
>have unforeseen consequences. These unforeseen consequences can be
>nasty, and I've never seen a design change that didn't have surprises.
>It is quite easy to point to accidents caused by mechanical gyro
>failures and conclude we just need to replace them with something else.
>Keep in mind, in doing this "analysis", that the area under the
>cumulative time in use of vacuum gyros combined with electric TC/TB (for
>example) is huge, while the total time the newcomers (Dynon) have is
>quite limited, probably one millionth as much time.
>
>Something to think about - the temptation to believe that a design
>change will be an overall improvement is overwhelming, but experience
>tells otherwise. Systems like Dynon's are clearly where the future is,
>but expect turbulence and dead guys along the way.
>
>Alex Peterson
If you are going to use a Dynon for IFR, you should equip your
aircraft so that a total failure of the Dynon leaves you no worse off
than a failure of a vacuum pump or electrical system on a more
conventionally equipped aircraft. You also need to assume that the
Dynon could start displaying misleading info at any time.
I'm intending to install a Dynon, and I intend to eventually fly it
IFR. But I am only using the Dynon to replace the AI and DG, and I
will do a lot of testing before I head into a cloud.
I agree that we need to tread carefully.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh RV-6 accident |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I confess, It was me!
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oshkosh RV-6 accident
> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I believe it was "our" own Cy Galley who won a "Lifetime Achievement"
award
> at OSH this year.
>
> Each year, we often hear about planes that won awards but Cy (along with
> about four others, including a member of our chapter) got one for doing
good
> stuff over many years.
>
> Congrats Cy!!
>
> And if I got this wrong ... oh well. :-)
>
> James
> (from EAA Chapter 242)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Cy Galley
> > Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2003 7:07 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh RV-6 accident
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > It is my understanding that they boxed it up and drove it back home.
> >
> > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
> >
> > Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steven Eberhart" <newtech@newtech.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Oshkosh RV-6 accident
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
> > >
> > > Has anyone heard what they did with Van's red demonstrator RV-6
> > that was
> > > involved in the runway accident at Oshkosh? Just curious if they are
> > > going to replace the wing in the workshop at Pioneer field. Possibly
> > > borrow a wing from the EAA young eagles RV-6 so they could
> > ferry it home?
> > >
> > > Steve Eberhart
> > > RV-7A - working on wings
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: david.keck@amd.com
My wife had a friend who's granddaughter was severely burned because the girls
mother was using Coleman lantern gas to clean lice out of the girls hair (duh).
This was being done in the kitchen and the pilot light on the stove ignited
the lantern gas from several feet away. I believe Coleman lantern gas fumes
are more volatile this way than other cleaning chemicals. Read the warnings on
the can and I think it mentions this about the vapors being extremely flammable
from remote ignition sources.
Just a note to be careful with that stuff.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear@new.rr.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Roger:
For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts cleanup
prior to priming throughout my project with very good results. A bit
cheaper too.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one uses?
> Roger.
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
George;
Here is another quote from the Trio site:
"Solid State Gyro
Mechanical gyros have been a mainstay in aircraft instruments for years.
However, they are now being strongly challenged by some very impressive
solid state electronic gyros that are small enough to fit into a 1/4 inch
cube. These gyros are highly responsive, accurate and not subject to the
effects of mechanical wear and breakage of their mechanical ancestors. The
new gyros are also different in that they do not obtain their attitude
reference from gravity, but derive it from electronic signals from GPS
receivers, electronic magnetic sensors or accelerometers. The EZ Pilot
utilizes these new gyros to provide fast, accurate and reliable attitude
information."
Presumably by noting the rate of change of a suitably mounted gyro, aircraft
turn rate can be derived and displayed by the EZ device.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
> --> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
> George McNutt wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
> >
> > Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick@cox.net>
> >
> > I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio
Avionics
> > (<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the
> Navaid
> > AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
> > dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo).
> >
> > Hi Tom
> >
> > Had a quick look at their web site and it looks like the one (essential
to
> > me) thing it cannot do is provide turn & bank info.
>
>
> Here is a quote from the web site:
>
> "A convenient Display switch allows the pilot to read the Waypoint
> Designator, Ground Speed, Distance to Waypoint, Time to Waypoint, and a
> graphic Turn Coordinator."
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> Thanks Sam
>
> I noticed that later when I took a closer look at the web page. Wonder how
> the turn info is derived.
>
> George McNutt
> Langley B.C.
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Karie, I used a Kit for each Wing Tip 1 1/4 in. spacing as it adds better
support for the tip to prevent tip sag after time. There are 2 other RV's in
my area with the tips done this way and no sag after several years.
I cut some 1/4 in. brake tube (2 pieces for Each Tip) that fit
between a plate nut on the bottom and top of each tip to facilitate easy
installation. You cut the tube to just allow the tip to be expanded the size
of the wing end now one person can install them, plus I believe this a very
light weight approach to making them hold their shape.
Painting wings this week and moving them to the airport!
Flying this fall!! Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> I guess that's good enough for me then. :-)
>
> Thanks, I just wanted to make sure this was nice way to go. Just seems too
> easy to me I guess!
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> To: < >
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Well, Lyle Hefel uses the #4 screw for his wing tips and so did the
Bronze
> > Lindy winner Greg Klema. They look nice and are unobtrusive.
> >
> > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
> >
> > Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> > >
> > > Since I will be moving to my QB wings shortly I purchased the
Cleaveland
> > wing tip attach kit (WHS-220)
> >
>
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberWHS220&variatio
> > n&aitem1&mitem1
> > > After receiving the kit I was surprised that these are only #4 screws.
> > This seems very small to attach the wing tip? Instructions say to just
> soft
> > rivet plate nuts directly to the fiberglass the screw in.
> > >
> > > I feel pretty silly now paying $44.00 plus shipping for what looks
like
> > $3.00 worth of soft rivets, plate nuts and screws. Is this really a good
> way
> > to go? Is it going to go the distance to hold the wingtips securely for
> > years to come?
> > >
> > > I'm not slamming Cleaveland here their great guys with great service
and
> > they are always excellent to deal with. I'm just wondering if I bought
the
> > right thing in this case.
> > >
> > > Karie Daniel
> > > Sammamish, WA
> > > RV-7A QB
> > >
> > > And yes, I've been busy in the garage lately. I just didn't want to
pile
> > 50 questions in to one mail. Thanks everyone!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re:MK-319-BS Shank Size |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Bob, I did the same thing (saw it on George's Video) and the 9/64" bit works
fine although I had to run it through the hole a couple of times.
I did get that drill bit a a Discount Store though.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <Oldsfolks@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re:MK-319-BS Shank Size
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> I found that a 9/64" bit works well with these rivets. I just tossed the
> drill bit into the plastic drawer with the rivets,so I don't have to look
for it
> each time.
>
> Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> Charleston, Arkansas
> "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Remember also that Coleman Fuel is very oily and the surface (if it's to be
painted) will have to be cleaned again with Lacuer Thinner or a paint prep
solution prior to painting for the paint to stick.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <david.keck@amd.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
> --> RV-List message posted by: david.keck@amd.com
>
> My wife had a friend who's granddaughter was severely burned because the
girls mother was using Coleman lantern gas to clean lice out of the girls
hair (duh). This was being done in the kitchen and the pilot light on the
stove ignited the lantern gas from several feet away. I believe Coleman
lantern gas fumes are more volatile this way than other cleaning chemicals.
Read the warnings on the can and I think it mentions this about the vapors
being extremely flammable from remote ignition sources.
>
> Just a note to be careful with that stuff.
>
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear@new.rr.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> Roger:
>
> For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts cleanup
> prior to priming throughout my project with very good results. A bit
> cheaper too.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
> Peshtigo, WI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> >
> > For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one
uses?
> > Roger.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Cardinal Paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Marty,
I used Cardinal's Paint but I used the stuff that comes in the one gallon
cans, both primer and finish coats. I did however buy the spray cans that
match perfectly with the power coat and have used that for touch-ups, and to
paint things like my battery tray, battery hold down, small parts, etc.
I have been impressed with durability of both the products I have used from
Cardinal. I did try to paint some larger pieces with the spray cans but
found it difficult to get an even uniform finish.
Hope this helps
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
N842S (res.)
FWF
----- Original Message -----
From: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Cardinal Paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> Is anyone using the Pardinal Paint in spray cans to match Van's powder
> coating on the interior of their cockpit? If so, will you please
> comment as to it's durability. I may be interested in using for my
> cockpit and would be interested in purchasing any cans you may not have
> used or need, rather than purchasing a 6 pack from Cardinal.
>
> Marty in Brentwood, TN
> Do not archive.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hmm, this is strange, I never used it myself, but, it has been touted as
a good cleaner for, of all things, pre-proseal cleaner. If it left an
oily residue, it would be the worst thing to use for proseal.
Gert
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> Remember also that Coleman Fuel is very oily and the surface (if it's to be
> painted) will have to be cleaned again with Lacuer Thinner or a paint prep
> solution prior to painting for the paint to stick.
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <david.keck@amd.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: david.keck@amd.com
>>
>>My wife had a friend who's granddaughter was severely burned because the
>>
> girls mother was using Coleman lantern gas to clean lice out of the girls
> hair (duh). This was being done in the kitchen and the pilot light on the
> stove ignited the lantern gas from several feet away. I believe Coleman
> lantern gas fumes are more volatile this way than other cleaning chemicals.
> Read the warnings on the can and I think it mentions this about the vapors
> being extremely flammable from remote ignition sources.
>
>>Just a note to be careful with that stuff.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear@new.rr.com]
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
>>
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>>
>>Roger:
>>
>>For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts cleanup
>>prior to priming throughout my project with very good results. A bit
>>cheaper too.
>>
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Jeff Orear
>>RV6A
>>fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
>>Peshtigo, WI
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one
>>>
> uses?
>
>>>Roger.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | RE: Dynon and IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Someone stated that there seem to be a lot of IFR RVs going together based
on the enthusiasm for the Dynon.
Well, have no intention of turning my RV into an IFR airplane, which is
precisely why I got the Dynon. My logic was as follows:
I am not an Instrument rated pilot. I don't intend to get my instrument
rating anytime soon. I however do enjoy flying at night, and do it a lot.
With that said, I want to keep my RV light, like God and Vans intended. I
have refused to put a vacume system in my airplane for the added backup an
AI and DG can provide. I have toyed with the idea of putting in an electric
AI, but countless stories of problems as well as the high price have kept me
from acting. ($1800 and it may need to be rebuilt for $1200 every couple of
years)
So the Dynon comes along. I'd like the safety of an AI in an Oh Sh_t
situation. It is reasonably priced. Has battery backup, since my plane's
electrical system has no designed in redundancy or fault tolerance, and it
slides right into a standard 3" instrument hole.
It is a nearly perfect instrument for MY needs. Light, simple to retrofit,
inexpensive.
With that said, I would not purchase a dynon as my primary attitude
instrument if I were building an IFR aircraft. The fact that it needs air
data to maintain attitude is a problem in that area. The exact conditions
that are likely to cause problems for the Dynon (pitot icing) are the
conditions where you REALLY need to depend on your AI.
There's been a lot of talk about the Dynon VS the Grand Rapids EFIS.
Pointless in my opinion. The Grand Rapids EFIS costs almost THREE TIMES AS
MUCH. I am not saying it isn't worth it, but its a different market. If I
were building an IFR RV I might use the GR product for primary and Dynon for
backup. Then again I might use a vacume AI with the Dynon as backup.
Either way, the Dynon, GR and Blue mountain offerings all fill different
needs. Make a list of your requirements, list the pros and cons of each
system and purchase the one that most meets your needs as well as the
restricitions of your wallet.
Hope this helps.
Best regards,
Don Mei
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Why not turn down the idle? It will help you landings as well.
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV3" <rv3@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tire Wear
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>
> >Hah...taildragger ain't no excuse either <g>. I have 43 novice
> >taildragger hours on my RV-6, lots of pattern work and landings,
> >Aerotrainers (and brake pads) still look new.
> >
> >Personally, I think its people riding the brakes. I find the only time I
> >need brakes is for stopping from a taxi, for tight turns, and for runup.
> >You just don't need them any other time during normal ops.
> >
> >Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
> >do not archive
> >
> ============================================
>
> I'm a ;-) novice with 8000 hours and 50 years in taildraggers.
>
> My RV-3, even at a 750 rpm idle, wants to run faster than
> is smart to taxi on HARD SURFACE, so brakes MUST be
> applied every now and then for safety's sake.
>
> YMMV.
>
>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Dave:
Exactly why I only use it either in my opened garage or out in the driveway,
and it is stored in the garage.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: <david.keck@amd.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
> --> RV-List message posted by: david.keck@amd.com
>
> My wife had a friend who's granddaughter was severely burned because the
girls mother was using Coleman lantern gas to clean lice out of the girls
hair (duh). This was being done in the kitchen and the pilot light on the
stove ignited the lantern gas from several feet away. I believe Coleman
lantern gas fumes are more volatile this way than other cleaning chemicals.
Read the warnings on the can and I think it mentions this about the vapors
being extremely flammable from remote ignition sources.
>
> Just a note to be careful with that stuff.
>
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear@new.rr.com]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> Roger:
>
> For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts cleanup
> prior to priming throughout my project with very good results. A bit
> cheaper too.
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Jeff Orear
> RV6A
> fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
> Peshtigo, WI
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> >
> > For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one
uses?
> > Roger.
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Remember also that Coleman Fuel is very oily and the surface
> (if it's to be
> painted) will have to be cleaned again with Lacuer Thinner or
> a paint prep solution prior to painting for the paint to stick.
Interesting. Put some Coleman fuel on a glass slide and do the same
with lacquer thinner, and look at the residuals. Lacquer thinner
actually has a little oil in it to slow evaporation, while Coleman fuel
is without oil, just comprised of naphtha. It does seem to decompose
into something slimy, however.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 337 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Gert:
I have never noticed any oily residue while using Coleman Lantern fluid
(Naphtha). I have had no trouble with primer adhereing.
I did not use it on my tanks.....I found that xylol did a really good job
there.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
> Hmm, this is strange, I never used it myself, but, it has been touted as
> a good cleaner for, of all things, pre-proseal cleaner. If it left an
> oily residue, it would be the worst thing to use for proseal.
>
> Gert
>
> Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
<tcervin@valkyrie.net>
> >
> > Remember also that Coleman Fuel is very oily and the surface (if it's
to be
> > painted) will have to be cleaned again with Lacuer Thinner or a paint
prep
> > solution prior to painting for the paint to stick.
> >
> > Tom in Ohio
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <david.keck@amd.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: david.keck@amd.com
> >>
> >>My wife had a friend who's granddaughter was severely burned because the
> >>
> > girls mother was using Coleman lantern gas to clean lice out of the
girls
> > hair (duh). This was being done in the kitchen and the pilot light on
the
> > stove ignited the lantern gas from several feet away. I believe Coleman
> > lantern gas fumes are more volatile this way than other cleaning
chemicals.
> > Read the warnings on the can and I think it mentions this about the
vapors
> > being extremely flammable from remote ignition sources.
> >
> >>Just a note to be careful with that stuff.
> >>
> >>Dave
> >>
> >>-----Original Message-----
> >>From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear@new.rr.com]
> >>To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >>Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
> >>
> >>
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
> >>
> >>Roger:
> >>
> >>For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts
cleanup
> >>prior to priming throughout my project with very good results. A bit
> >>cheaper too.
> >>
> >>
> >>Regards,
> >>
> >>Jeff Orear
> >>RV6A
> >>fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
> >>Peshtigo, WI
> >>
> >>----- Original Message -----
> >>From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> >>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >>Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> >>>
> >>>For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which solvent one
> >>>
> > uses?
> >
> >>>Roger.
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I haven't noticed any problems with paint sticking. I have been using
it since the beginning. All solvents have their dangers and should be
used with care and common sense, of course.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 systems.
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom & Cathy Ervin [mailto:tcervin@valkyrie.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 10:11 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
> --> <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> Remember also that Coleman Fuel is very oily and the surface
> (if it's to be
> painted) will have to be cleaned again with Lacuer Thinner or
> a paint prep solution prior to painting for the paint to stick.
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <david.keck@amd.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: david.keck@amd.com
> >
> > My wife had a friend who's granddaughter was severely
> burned because
> > the
> girls mother was using Coleman lantern gas to clean lice out
> of the girls hair (duh). This was being done in the kitchen
> and the pilot light on the stove ignited the lantern gas from
> several feet away. I believe Coleman lantern gas fumes are
> more volatile this way than other cleaning chemicals. Read
> the warnings on the can and I think it mentions this about
> the vapors being extremely flammable from remote ignition sources.
> >
> > Just a note to be careful with that stuff.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear@new.rr.com]
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
> >
> > Roger:
> >
> > For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts
> > cleanup prior to priming throughout my project with very
> good results.
> > A bit cheaper too.
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jeff Orear
> > RV6A
> > fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
> > Peshtigo, WI
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson"
> > > --> <revenson@comcast.net>
> > >
> > > For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which
> solvent one
> uses?
> > > Roger.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's Oil Pressure Guage Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
Suggest measuring your sender case to airframe grounding first to
determine if "better" grounding is possible or required.
My Van's senders (oil & fuel pressure) are mounted on the anodized
manifold, measured resistance from sender cases to single point ground is
in the milliohm range. No "better" grounding possible or required.
Rob Acker (RV-6, 43hrs Van's gauges working perfectly)
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT"
> <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
>
> Many of you in the past have stated that Van's oil pressure sender needs
> to be grounded better than that provided by the anodized aluminum
> manifold block it mounts on. My question is, how have you guys been
> acheiving a better ground? I am presently getting around a 40-45 PSI
> indication regardless of RPM's. The oil line going to the sending unit
> is filled with fluid, so that solution has already been applied,
> resulting in about a 5-7 PSI increase. Has anyone been using these
> guages for a while now and is acheiving good reliability? From all that
> is in the archives, one has to wonder. Thanks in advance for any help.
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's Oil Pressure Guage Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
Suggest measuring your sender case to airframe grounding first to
determine if "better" grounding is possible or required.
My Van's senders (oil & fuel pressure) are mounted on the anodized
manifold, measured resistance from sender cases to single point ground is
in the milliohm range. No "better" grounding possible or required.
Rob Acker (RV-6, 43hrs Van's gauges working perfectly)
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT"
> <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
>
> Many of you in the past have stated that Van's oil pressure sender needs
> to be grounded better than that provided by the anodized aluminum
> manifold block it mounts on. My question is, how have you guys been
> acheiving a better ground? I am presently getting around a 40-45 PSI
> indication regardless of RPM's. The oil line going to the sending unit
> is filled with fluid, so that solution has already been applied,
> resulting in about a 5-7 PSI increase. Has anyone been using these
> guages for a while now and is acheiving good reliability? From all that
> is in the archives, one has to wonder. Thanks in advance for any help.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
In a message dated 8/9/2003 9:21:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
karie4@comcast.net writes:
> Since I will be moving to my QB wings shortly I purchased the Cleaveland
> wing tip attach kit (WHS-220)
> http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberWHS220&variation&aitem1&mitem1
> After receiving the kit I was surprised that these are only #4 screws. This
> seems very small to attach the wing tip? Instructions say to just soft rivet
> plate nuts directly to the fiberglass the screw in.
>
> I feel pretty silly now paying $44.00 plus shipping for what looks like
> $3.00 worth of soft rivets, plate nuts and screws. Is this really a good way
to
> go? Is it going to go the distance to hold the wingtips securely for years to
> come?
>
> I'm not slamming Cleaveland here their great guys with great service and
> they are always excellent to deal with. I'm just wondering if I bought the right
> thing in this case.
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A QB
>
I used the same kit from Cleveland based on seeing Louis Smiths plane (one of
the first 8s to fly). I probably would use #6 if I had it to do again but
the #4s worked out okay. You simply have to throw the screws away after using
them once. The threads don't seem to hold up to mutiple times in and out.
As far as holding the tips on ... they aren't going anywhere without the rest
of the plane !!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
116 hrs
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
One rumour that I have heard is that Coleman adds a bit of oil to their
product to lubricate the innards of stoves, lanterns, etc. so that you are
not getting straight naphtha. Could be wrong, could be urban legend stuff,
or could be the amount of oil added is so small as to be unimportant.
The paint prep cleaning stuff works well and is reasonably inexpensive.
Watch the fumes for health reasons however....
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>
> > Remember also that Coleman Fuel is very oily and the surface
> > (if it's to be
> > painted) will have to be cleaned again with Lacuer Thinner or
> > a paint prep solution prior to painting for the paint to stick.
>
>
> Interesting. Put some Coleman fuel on a glass slide and do the same
> with lacquer thinner, and look at the residuals. Lacquer thinner
> actually has a little oil in it to slow evaporation, while Coleman fuel
> is without oil, just comprised of naphtha. It does seem to decompose
> into something slimy, however.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 337 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Max Height of Avionics Stack in -7A Slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Does any know what the maximum height of the avionics stack in a -7A w/slider could
be with Van's stock instrument panel?
My audio panel, two comms, and transponder are a 5.53" tall. Trying to determine
if I can add a 4.5" tall Engine Monitor to the stack for a total of 10.3".
TIA,
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7AQB N174JL reserved
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Coleman fuel is Naphtha and its ingredients are not regulated. It can have
any kind of crap in it. Naphtha often contains Benzene which is a
carcinogen. It also contains rust inhibitors and stabilizers which may not
be compatible with paint and are actually intended to LEAVE a residue, to
keep the inside of your stove or lantern from rusting.... Many other
thinners such as lacquer thinner are carcinogenic or harmful to your health.
Consider using Acetone which has low health hazard, is cheap and works as
well as most cleaners to remove oily residue, paint and other
contamination. If you feel that you must use one of the more dangerous
chemicals to get the surface super clean, use it as a final cleaner after
using acetone.
It's not an accident that your wife's finger nail polish remover is nothing
but acetone. It is a relatively safe solvent. Many others are very
dangerous and there is little reason to use them. What we don't know can
hurt us...
Any question about any product like this- Check the MSDS for it on the
internet. The answer is a click away.
David Burton
University Medical Center
Seattle
RV6-wings
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Good words, David.
Am I right in my understanding that MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) is even
better than acetone?
Water is a superb solvent. Use the clean stuff of course. Hot is better
than cold - probably true of most solvents. I figure on removing oil and
grease with stoddard solvent which I buy as cheapo mineral spirits paint
thinner. I believe it is pretty safe if not inhaled for days on
end. Check it out at www.atsdr.cdc.gov along with acetone,xylene and many
others but not MEK.
The next step is to wash with detergent & water and then rinse
thoroughly. Zero residue.
Hal Kempthorne
At 09:36 AM 8/10/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
>Coleman fuel is Naphtha and its ingredients are not regulated. It can have
>any kind of crap in it. Naphtha often contains Benzene which is a
>carcinogen. It also contains rust inhibitors and stabilizers which may not
>be compatible with paint and are actually intended to LEAVE a residue, to
>keep the inside of your stove or lantern from rusting.... Many other
>thinners such as lacquer thinner are carcinogenic or harmful to your health.
>Consider using Acetone which has low health hazard, is cheap and works as
>well as most cleaners to remove oily residue, paint and other
>contamination. If you feel that you must use one of the more dangerous
>chemicals to get the surface super clean, use it as a final cleaner after
>using acetone.
>
>It's not an accident that your wife's finger nail polish remover is nothing
>but acetone. It is a relatively safe solvent. Many others are very
>dangerous and there is little reason to use them. What we don't know can
>hurt us...
>
>Any question about any product like this- Check the MSDS for it on the
>internet. The answer is a click away.
>
>David Burton
>University Medical Center
>Seattle
>RV6-wings
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick@cox.net>
Its has a digital turn and bank display as one of the options like the
Navaid. I replaced the turn coordinator in my plane with the Navaid head
so I have been flying without a turn coordinator for about a year. I am
used to flying VFR without it now but would like to have it back. I plan on
reinstalling my turn coordinator where my directional gyro is presently
when I replace my vacuum AH and DG with a Dynon D-10 primary flight
display. www.dynondevelopment.com.
Regards,
Tom
At 11:57 PM 8/9/03 -0700, you wrote:
>I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio Avionics
>(<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the Navaid
>AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
>dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo).
>
>
>Hi Tom
>
>Had a quick look at their web site and it looks like the one (essential to
>me) thing it cannot do is provide turn & bank info.
>
>George McNutt
>Langley B.C.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
# 4 Screws with Tip-Tanks ??
How would the # 4 screws hold up if used with the optional Vans Tip Tanks (that
I have sitting- & collecting dust in my garage).
Would the ~9 gallons of fuel per side be to much weight to be handled by the #4's?
Is there anyone out there who has the Vans Tip Tanks installed, who would like
to give us their mounting solution & reasons?
Thank you,
Konrad
*************
I used the same kit from Cleveland based on seeing Louis Smiths plane (one of
the first 8s to fly). I probably would use #6 if I had it to do again but
the #4s worked out okay. You simply have to throw the screws away after using
them once. The threads don't seem to hold up to mutiple times in and out.
As far as holding the tips on ... they aren't going anywhere without the rest
of the plane !!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
116 hrs
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Dynon and IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Anyone,
Doesn't the AI function depend on the Dynon internal gyros
only, not any air data?? Where does air data (or lack of, due to icing)
coe into the AI function?
...gil in Tucson
>With that said, I would not purchase a dynon as my primary attitude
>instrument if I were building an IFR aircraft. The fact that it needs air
>data to maintain attitude is a problem in that area. The exact conditions
>that are likely to cause problems for the Dynon (pitot icing) are the
>conditions where you REALLY need to depend on your AI.
>
>
>Don Mei
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Woa! The turn coordinator is the little ball in the tube. Step on the
ball for coordinated turns. I do agree that the Navaid does not display
bank information. It will give you a 2 minute turn if set up correctly.
GZ
Thomas Velvick wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick@cox.net>
>
>Its has a digital turn and bank display as one of the options like the
>Navaid. I replaced the turn coordinator in my plane with the Navaid head
>so I have been flying without a turn coordinator for about a year. I am
>used to flying VFR without it now but would like to have it back. I plan on
>reinstalling my turn coordinator where my directional gyro is presently
>when I replace my vacuum AH and DG with a Dynon D-10 primary flight
>display. www.dynondevelopment.com.
>Regards,
>Tom
>
>
>At 11:57 PM 8/9/03 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>>I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio Avionics
>>(<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the Navaid
>>AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
>>dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo).
>>
>>
>>Hi Tom
>>
>>Had a quick look at their web site and it looks like the one (essential to
>>me) thing it cannot do is provide turn & bank info.
>>
>>George McNutt
>>Langley B.C.
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
tests=AWL,BAYES_01,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,
QUOTED_EMAIL_TEXT,USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I used coleman throughout. Stunk. Cleaned well. Cheap.
Paint still on. 1000hrs of flying.
Mike Stewart
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen
Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I haven't noticed any problems with paint sticking. I have been using
it since the beginning. All solvents have their dangers and should be
used with care and common sense, of course.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 systems.
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom & Cathy Ervin [mailto:tcervin@valkyrie.net]
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 10:11 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
> --> <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> Remember also that Coleman Fuel is very oily and the surface
> (if it's to be
> painted) will have to be cleaned again with Lacuer Thinner or
> a paint prep solution prior to painting for the paint to stick.
>
> Tom in Ohio
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <david.keck@amd.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel.
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: david.keck@amd.com
> >
> > My wife had a friend who's granddaughter was severely
> burned because
> > the
> girls mother was using Coleman lantern gas to clean lice out
> of the girls hair (duh). This was being done in the kitchen
> and the pilot light on the stove ignited the lantern gas from
> several feet away. I believe Coleman lantern gas fumes are
> more volatile this way than other cleaning chemicals. Read
> the warnings on the can and I think it mentions this about
> the vapors being extremely flammable from remote ignition sources.
> >
> > Just a note to be careful with that stuff.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jeff Orear [mailto:jorear@new.rr.com]
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
> >
> > Roger:
> >
> > For what it is worth, I have used Coleman lantern fluid for parts
> > cleanup prior to priming throughout my project with very
> good results.
> > A bit cheaper too.
> >
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jeff Orear
> > RV6A
> > fuselage (waiting for finish kit)
> > Peshtigo, WI
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner?
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson"
> > > --> <revenson@comcast.net>
> > >
> > > For cleaning aluminum, does it make any difference which
> solvent one
> uses?
> > > Roger.
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
> ==========
> Matronics Forums.
> ==========
> List members.
> ==========
> ==========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
Cy Galley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Why not turn down the idle? It will help you landings as well.
>
>Cy Galley
>
Turn the idle down to what?
Have you ever flown an 0-320 with wooden prop?
Not enough flywheel mass to get much below 900 RPM
without vibrating the sliding canopy off, if it's not closed
and locked due to all the shake, rattle and roll.
It's all academic now that I've recently swapped the
10 pound wood prop for a 26 pound metal Sensenich.
YMMV.
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Dynon and IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: Patrick <bittybipe@yahoo.com>
Not that I know anything about avionics, but the guy at Osh manning the Dynon booth
said they will be offering a heated pitot tube later this year.
Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Gil
Alexander
Anyone,
Doesn't the AI function depend on the Dynon internal gyros
only, not any air data?? Where does air data (or lack of, due to icing)
coe into the AI function?
...gil in Tucson
>With that said, I would not purchase a dynon as my primary attitude
>instrument if I were building an IFR aircraft. The fact that it needs air
>data to maintain attitude is a problem in that area. The exact conditions
>that are likely to cause problems for the Dynon (pitot icing) are the
>conditions where you REALLY need to depend on your AI.
>
>
>Don Mei
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
---------------------------------
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: RE: Dynon and IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Probably a little confusion here with the term AI sounds like some are
thinking Airspeed Indicator and others are thinking Attitude Indicator?
Jerry
do not archive
Patrick wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Patrick <bittybipe@yahoo.com>
>
>Not that I know anything about avionics, but the guy at Osh manning the Dynon
booth said they will be offering a heated pitot tube later this year.
>
>Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Gil
Alexander
>
>Anyone,
>Doesn't the AI function depend on the Dynon internal gyros
>only, not any air data?? Where does air data (or lack of, due to icing)
>coe into the AI function?
>
>...gil in Tucson
>
>
>
>
>>With that said, I would not purchase a dynon as my primary attitude
>>instrument if I were building an IFR aircraft. The fact that it needs air
>>data to maintain attitude is a problem in that area. The exact conditions
>>that are likely to cause problems for the Dynon (pitot icing) are the
>>conditions where you REALLY need to depend on your AI.
>>
>>
>>Don Mei
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
>77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Whoa Hal, MEK is nasty stuff. Much worse than acetone. I've been using
denatured alcohol for almost everything. It's pretty benign unless you drink
it. I tend to use the most solvent when scotchbrighting prior to priming.
The alcohol is perfect for this. Safe, no residue. I wonder why I spend so
many years with hands soaked in MEK and acetone before I wised up. Give it a
try.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> Good words, David.
>
> Am I right in my understanding that MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) is even
> better than acetone?
>
> Water is a superb solvent. Use the clean stuff of course.
> Hot is better
> than cold - probably true of most solvents. I figure on
> removing oil and
> grease with stoddard solvent which I buy as cheapo mineral
> spirits paint
> thinner. I believe it is pretty safe if not inhaled for days on
> end. Check it out at www.atsdr.cdc.gov along with
> acetone,xylene and many
> others but not MEK.
>
> The next step is to wash with detergent & water and then rinse
> thoroughly. Zero residue.
>
> Hal Kempthorne
>
> At 09:36 AM 8/10/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> >
> >Coleman fuel is Naphtha and its ingredients are not
> regulated. It can
> >have any kind of crap in it. Naphtha often contains Benzene
> which is a
> >carcinogen. It also contains rust inhibitors and
> stabilizers which may
> >not be compatible with paint and are actually intended to LEAVE a
> >residue, to keep the inside of your stove or lantern from
> rusting....
> >Many other thinners such as lacquer thinner are carcinogenic
> or harmful
> >to your health. Consider using Acetone which has low health
> hazard, is
> >cheap and works as well as most cleaners to remove oily
> residue, paint
> >and other contamination. If you feel that you must use one
> of the more
> >dangerous chemicals to get the surface super clean, use it
> as a final
> >cleaner after using acetone.
> >
> >It's not an accident that your wife's finger nail polish remover is
> >nothing but acetone. It is a relatively safe solvent. Many
> others are
> >very dangerous and there is little reason to use them. What
> we don't
> >know can hurt us...
> >
> >Any question about any product like this- Check the MSDS for
> it on the
> >internet. The answer is a click away.
> >
> >David Burton
> >University Medical Center
> >Seattle
> >RV6-wings
> >
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: MK-319-BS Shank Size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
Karie,
7/32 is correct. Drill #33
Bill RV-8 Tiger-Kat
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: MK-319-BS Shank Size?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> Anyone know what the shank size of the MK-319-BS rivet is? I'm a little
perplexed, seems like every bit I've tried is either slightly larger or
slightly smaller for this rivet. I don't want a dimple that's too deep and
hole that's too large. I called Vans and they said it was a 7/32. So either
I'm looking at an entirely wrong blind rivet or Vans misunderstood my
question. A 7/32 is gigantic compared to what I'm looking at as a MK-319-BS
rivet.
>
> These are the four blind rivets you use on the trailing edge of the
elevator near the trim tab, you can't get to this using a normal rivet.
>
> Karie Daniel
> Sammamish, WA
> RV-7A QB
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Do yourself a favor and just buy some -06 plate nuts and -06 screws.
The -04's are a pain in the arse. I think the 6's are easier to work with
and probably exponentially stronger.
DArwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Lenleg@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware
> --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 8/9/2003 9:21:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> karie4@comcast.net writes:
>
> > Since I will be moving to my QB wings shortly I purchased the Cleaveland
> > wing tip attach kit (WHS-220)
> >
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?numberWHS220&variatio
n&aitem1&mitem1
> > After receiving the kit I was surprised that these are only #4 screws.
This
> > seems very small to attach the wing tip? Instructions say to just soft
rivet
> > plate nuts directly to the fiberglass the screw in.
> >
> > I feel pretty silly now paying $44.00 plus shipping for what looks like
> > $3.00 worth of soft rivets, plate nuts and screws. Is this really a good
way to
> > go? Is it going to go the distance to hold the wingtips securely for
years to
> > come?
> >
> > I'm not slamming Cleaveland here their great guys with great service and
> > they are always excellent to deal with. I'm just wondering if I bought
the right
> > thing in this case.
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Sammamish, WA
> > RV-7A QB
> >
>
> I used the same kit from Cleveland based on seeing Louis Smiths plane (one
of
> the first 8s to fly). I probably would use #6 if I had it to do again but
> the #4s worked out okay. You simply have to throw the screws away after
using
> them once. The threads don't seem to hold up to mutiple times in and out.
>
> As far as holding the tips on ... they aren't going anywhere without the
rest
> of the plane !!!
>
> Len Leggette, RV-8A
> Greensboro, NC N910LL
> 116 hrs
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Nylon T fitting that goes to break res. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
There is a nylon T fitting that goes through the firewall to the break reservoir.
Do I prep the threads on this with anything? I'm guessing no since it's nylon
but I want to make sure. Also, I searched the archives but didn't find much
for what I would use to seal the hole where the break res goes through the firewall.
Any suggestions? Proseal is ugly to deal with for such a small area.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA.
BTW....Thanks for everyone's help regarding the wingtip attach kit and the blind
rivet questions yesterday.
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Well, that settles it then, like primer, everybody has their own
favorite solvent ;-)
do not archive
Gert
Greg Young wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
> Whoa Hal, MEK is nasty stuff. Much worse than acetone. I've been using
> denatured alcohol for almost everything. It's pretty benign unless you drink
> it. I tend to use the most solvent when scotchbrighting prior to priming.
> The alcohol is perfect for this. Safe, no residue. I wonder why I spend so
> many years with hands soaked in MEK and acetone before I wised up. Give it a
> try.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Good words, David.
>>
>>Am I right in my understanding that MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) is even
>>better than acetone?
>>
>>Water is a superb solvent. Use the clean stuff of course.
>>Hot is better
>>than cold - probably true of most solvents. I figure on
>>removing oil and
>>grease with stoddard solvent which I buy as cheapo mineral
>>spirits paint
>>thinner. I believe it is pretty safe if not inhaled for days on
>>end. Check it out at www.atsdr.cdc.gov along with
>>acetone,xylene and many
>>others but not MEK.
>>
>>The next step is to wash with detergent & water and then rinse
>>thoroughly. Zero residue.
>>
>>Hal Kempthorne
>>
>>At 09:36 AM 8/10/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>>>
>>>Coleman fuel is Naphtha and its ingredients are not
>>>
>>regulated. It can
>>
>>>have any kind of crap in it. Naphtha often contains Benzene
>>>
>>which is a
>>
>>>carcinogen. It also contains rust inhibitors and
>>>
>>stabilizers which may
>>
>>>not be compatible with paint and are actually intended to LEAVE a
>>>residue, to keep the inside of your stove or lantern from
>>>
>>rusting....
>>
>>>Many other thinners such as lacquer thinner are carcinogenic
>>>
>>or harmful
>>
>>>to your health. Consider using Acetone which has low health
>>>
>>hazard, is
>>
>>>cheap and works as well as most cleaners to remove oily
>>>
>>residue, paint
>>
>>>and other contamination. If you feel that you must use one
>>>
>>of the more
>>
>>>dangerous chemicals to get the surface super clean, use it
>>>
>>as a final
>>
>>>cleaner after using acetone.
>>>
>>>It's not an accident that your wife's finger nail polish remover is
>>>nothing but acetone. It is a relatively safe solvent. Many
>>>
>>others are
>>
>>>very dangerous and there is little reason to use them. What
>>>
>>we don't
>>
>>>know can hurt us...
>>>
>>>Any question about any product like this- Check the MSDS for
>>>
>>it on the
>>
>>>internet. The answer is a click away.
>>>
>>>David Burton
>>>University Medical Center
>>>Seattle
>>>RV6-wings
>>>
>>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | pitot tube routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
I haven't had the wings on my 6 yet but am routing the pitot from the instruments
to get to the wing root. Question is where to pop it through, forward or aft
of F602, if forward then forward or aft of fuel tank/fuselage bracket? I realize
you can actually put it through anywhere aft of F602 but want it out of
the way as much as possible.
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: MK-319-BS Shank Size? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
William and Karie,
The drill for the MK-319-BS blind rivet is 7/64" (.109"). #33 (.113") is
just .0036" larger while 7/32" is .219".
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A late details
William Davis wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@695online.com>
>
> Karie,
>
> 7/32 is correct. Drill #33
>
> Bill RV-8 Tiger-Kat
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: MK-319-BS Shank Size?
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
> >
> > Anyone know what the shank size of the MK-319-BS rivet is? I'm a little
> perplexed, seems like every bit I've tried is either slightly larger or
> slightly smaller for this rivet. I don't want a dimple that's too deep and
> hole that's too large. I called Vans and they said it was a 7/32. So either
> I'm looking at an entirely wrong blind rivet or Vans misunderstood my
> question. A 7/32 is gigantic compared to what I'm looking at as a MK-319-BS
> rivet.
> >
> > These are the four blind rivets you use on the trailing edge of the
> elevator near the trim tab, you can't get to this using a normal rivet.
> >
> > Karie Daniel
> > Sammamish, WA
> > RV-7A QB
> >
> >
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Paint Thinner vs. Lacquer Thinner? Coleman fuel. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> Whoa Hal, MEK is nasty stuff. Much worse than acetone. I've been using
> denatured alcohol for almost everything. It's pretty benign unless you
drink
> it. I tend to use the most solvent when scotchbrighting prior to priming.
> The alcohol is perfect for this. Safe, no residue. I wonder why I spend so
> many years with hands soaked in MEK and acetone before I wised up. Give it
a
> try.
Good advice! Alcohol is the cleaner I use if I can. For some applications
in my work (not painting) I have to use acetone. MEK is not horrible, but
worse then acetone. It causes liver and kidney damage and unfortunately
acts to accelerate damage to the liver and kidneys from other chemicals. It
makes a bad chemicals effects worse...
We glue acrylic with it, but limit our use of it to that purpose and we try
and do it under the hood.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Cleaveland RV Wing Tip Attach Hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
We have a local RV-9A (not flown yet) that is set up for the tip tanks and
they went to #8 screws in order to carry the load. They didn't do any
engineering just eye-balled it up from the standard #6. Speaking as an
engineer, I wouldn't use #4 screws in fiberglass to hold on to 54 pounds of
fuel unless they were about 1/2" apart. Just my opinion.
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
At 13:57 2003-08-10 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
>
># 4 Screws with Tip-Tanks ??
>
>How would the # 4 screws hold up if used with the optional Vans Tip Tanks
>(that I have sitting- & collecting dust in my garage).
>Would the ~9 gallons of fuel per side be to much weight to be handled by
>the #4's?
>
>Is there anyone out there who has the Vans Tip Tanks installed, who would
>like to give us their mounting solution & reasons?
>
>Thank you,
>Konrad
>*************
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 16:55 2003-08-10 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
>
>Cy Galley wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> >Why not turn down the idle? It will help you landings as well.
> >
> >Cy Galley
> >
>
>Turn the idle down to what?
>
>Have you ever flown an 0-320 with wooden prop?
>Not enough flywheel mass to get much below 900 RPM
>without vibrating the sliding canopy off, if it's not closed
>and locked due to all the shake, rattle and roll.
>
>It's all academic now that I've recently swapped the
>10 pound wood prop for a 26 pound metal Sensenich.
>
>YMMV.
26 pound metal Sensenich? I went from an 18 pound Warnke toothpick to a 41
pound Sensenich 70CM on my O-320. Have you checked your scales for
accuracy? Of course a 10 pound prop WOULD need 900 rpm to idle! P-)
Mike
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 42
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| Subject: | Control stick bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
While rigging my elevator control system for the first time, I noticed the
following problem with the bolts that attach the control sticks to the
control column that runs longitudinally in the center of the fuselage...
The sticks are mounted to the column with AN4 bolts that pass through the
center of a brass bushing. If I torque the nuts to the required 50-70
inch-pounds, the sticks bind and are very difficult to move. I have about
1/32" of bushing protruding out either side of the sticks, so it's not a case
of clamping the edges of the column to the sticks -- the sticks do not touch
the column at all.
Best I can figure, the 50-70 inch-pounds is causing the bushing to bow
slightly and preventing the stick from moving. If I back the nut off
slightly, the stick moves so nicely that it feels frictionless.
Anyone else had this problem? Should I just leave the nut backed off a little
and call it good enough (it's a castle nut and not a lock nut, so it won't be
going anywhere with the cotter pin installed)?
By the way, I called Van's about this, but they didn't really have any advice
for me.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB fuselage
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 43
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| Subject: | Used Navaid Test? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I just got a used Navaid, and I wanted to do some sort of bench testing to verify
that it works. The seller guarantees it to work, and he will return it within
a specified time period if not. Anyone have any idea on a way to possibly
bench test it? I just got wings a couple of weeks ago, so airplane testing is
out of the question. I know I can give it power to hear the gyros spin and
make sure all the lights light up, but I was hoping to do a little more than that.
Also, it did not come with any documentation...anyone have a scanned copy
of the pin-out diagram and/or any relevant manual info?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: pitot tube routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I ran my pitot line just aft of the F-602 so that it would fit under the aft
facing flange and be out of the way and protected from feet climbing in and
out, etc. (I think I put my F-602s in backwards so the open flange points
aft not forward as the plans show - but I'm flying now so what the heck.)
I used 1/4" poly tubing in this area and wondered about needing a 90 deg
fitting to turn the corner from penetrating the fuse side to going straight
up. In the end, I didn't bother and just have a snap bushing and a bend in
the tube. No sign of kinking or any other problem. The tube goes up and then
inboard to connect to the ASI.
The F-602 area gets a bit tight with fuel lines, vent lines, probably some
wiring, and inside finish upholstery all needing space so try and plan far
enough ahead to fit it all in including your pitot line.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A C-GKGZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
Subject: RV-List: pitot tube routing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
> I haven't had the wings on my 6 yet but am routing the pitot from the
instruments to get to the wing root. Question is where to pop it through,
forward or aft of F602, if forward then forward or aft of fuel tank/fuselage
bracket? I realize you can actually put it through anywhere aft of F602 but
want it out of the way as much as possible.
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 finishing
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: grommet question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dan,
Though it might represent a bit of extra work, some number of layers of heat
shrink in that area might do the job.
The kind with the glue inside has done the job for me in similar situations
and it most often has a three to four to one shrink rate. This will allow
getting it over various fittings to get it positioned as needed.
Another choice: The self vulcanizing or bonding silicone tape that Bob
Nuckolls or B&C sells works nicer than smooshing the Hi-Temp stuff in there.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: grommet question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> On my IO-360, I had to replace the hose that runs up from the fuel
injection
> controller to the spider. The new hose is thinner than the old hose, so
the
> grommet I was using in the lower baffling (AN931-12-17 or MS35489-20) is
too
> big (ID is too big, that is). The old hose was 3/4" (thus -12), but the
new
> hose is 9/16". They don't make an AN931-9-17 that I can find.
>
> I'm just curious if there's a simple solution for this, like wrapping
> something around the hose where it passes through the grommet in order to
> build the OD up to 3/4", or whether it's just a matter of getting out the
> high-temp silicone and filling the gap with it (seems really cheesy to do
> that).
>
> Does anybody know of a rubber grommet with:
>
> - ID = 9/16" or 5/8"
> - hole size = 1" or 1 1/16"
>
> I guess I could replace that lower baffling (and drill a smaller grommet
> hole in the new one) as a last resort, but I'd like to avoid that if
> possible.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>
>>Turn the idle down to what?
>>
>>Have you ever flown an 0-320 with wooden prop?
>>Not enough flywheel mass to get much below 900 RPM
>>without vibrating the sliding canopy off, if it's not closed
>>and locked due to all the shake, rattle and roll.
>>
>>It's all academic now that I've recently swapped the
>>10 pound wood prop for a 26 pound metal Sensenich.
>>
>>YMMV.
>>
>>
>
>26 pound metal Sensenich? I went from an 18 pound Warnke toothpick to a 41
>pound Sensenich 70CM on my O-320. Have you checked your scales for
>accuracy? Of course a 10 pound prop WOULD need 900 rpm to idle! P-)
>Mike
>
>Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
>
My Pacesetter wood prop is actually 11.4 pounds without 4 inch extention
or bolts. I don't recall what my 70CM weighs WITHOUT prop extention and
bolts, but I don't remember it being remotely close to 41 pounds.
However, the Sensenich web site uses 40.75 pounds for a TOTAL PACKAGE
weight that may well include the UPS shipping carton. In any case, the
mass of the metal prop, whether 26 or 41 pounds, still far exceeds that
of my wooden one.... making a lower idle a piece of cake. :-)
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