Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:13 AM - Option for CS after fitting FP Sensinech (doug)
2. 04:43 AM - Re: Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot (Jerry Hansen)
3. 04:45 AM - Re: Nylon T fitting that goes to break res. (Dean Pichon)
4. 04:50 AM - Re: Control stick bushings (Dean Pichon)
5. 05:19 AM - Re: Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear (Cy Galley)
6. 06:30 AM - Aux Alternator (Bruce Uvanni)
7. 07:07 AM - Re: Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear (RV3)
8. 08:09 AM - Re: 4" Alternator Pulley (Tim Barnes)
9. 08:13 AM - Re: Control stick bushings (Vanremog@aol.com)
10. 08:16 AM - Re: RV's in Bakersfield, CA? (Tim Barnes)
11. 08:44 AM - CS2 or CS3? (BBreckenridge@att.net)
12. 08:46 AM - Re: Spray Painting 101 & Painting Archive Q&A site (P M Condon)
13. 08:56 AM - Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot ()
14. 09:22 AM - Dynon Battery and Heading Module (Doug Rozendaal)
15. 09:25 AM - fuel weight (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
16. 10:05 AM - Re: fuel weight (Robert Cutter)
17. 10:13 AM - Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot (McFarland, Randy)
18. 10:15 AM - Re: RV-8A Cowl (Charles Rowbotham)
19. 10:26 AM - RV vs Lancair (Wheeler North)
20. 10:41 AM - Re: fuel weight (Keith Vasey)
21. 10:42 AM - Pro seal scales (Michael McGee)
22. 10:43 AM - wheel bearings heads up (Bob Japundza)
23. 10:45 AM - Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module (Jeff Point)
24. 10:48 AM - Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module (Stein Bruch)
25. 10:57 AM - Re: Control stick bushings (McFarland, Randy)
26. 11:14 AM - Re: Pro seal scales (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
27. 11:24 AM - Re: Pro seal scales (Michael McGee)
28. 11:29 AM - Re: Pro seal scales (Albert Gardner)
29. 11:31 AM - Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
30. 11:53 AM - Re: Control stick bushings (Neil McLeod)
31. 12:04 PM - Re: wheel bearings heads up (Brian Denk)
32. 12:08 PM - Re: Control stick bushings (Pat Hatch)
33. 12:10 PM - Grounding block RV6A (Ralph E. Capen)
34. 12:19 PM - True Airspeed indicator (Scott Brown)
35. 12:19 PM - Re: Grounding block RV6A (JusCash@aol.com)
36. 12:44 PM - Re: Grounding block RV6A (Don Mack)
37. 12:50 PM - governor problems??? (Bruce Uvanni)
38. 12:55 PM - Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module (Pat Hatch)
39. 01:14 PM - Re: RV vs Lancair (Jeff Point)
40. 01:27 PM - Re: governor problems??? (Mike Robertson)
41. 02:04 PM - Re: Option for CS after fitting FP Sensenich (Rick Galati)
42. 03:12 PM - RV-4 footwells (Doug Rozendaal)
43. 03:22 PM - Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module (Dana Overall)
44. 03:58 PM - Re: RV-4 footwells (Joe Hine)
45. 04:13 PM - Garmin 196 Panel Mount (Stein Bruch)
46. 04:25 PM - Re: wheel bearings heads up (Charlie & Tupper England)
47. 04:25 PM - Re: RV vs Lancair (Bob Hassel)
48. 04:42 PM - Fuel tank vent lines (JhnstnIII@aol.com)
49. 04:57 PM - Re: Re: Option for CS after fitting FP Sensenich (Eustace Bowhay)
50. 04:57 PM - Re: Option for CS after fitting FP Sensinech (Eustace Bowhay)
51. 05:10 PM - Dynon Battery and Heading Module (n6jx@earthlink.net)
52. 05:38 PM - Re: wheel bearings heads up (Jerry Springer)
53. 06:07 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent lines (George McNutt)
54. 06:27 PM - Avionics master relay (Tim Bryan)
55. 07:01 PM - More Dynon info (Donald Mei)
56. 07:04 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent lines (Alex Peterson)
57. 07:23 PM - Re: True Airspeed indicator (Gil Alexander)
58. 07:52 PM - Re: wheel bearings heads up (Brian Denk)
59. 08:01 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent lines (Jim Oke)
60. 08:07 PM - Re: More Dynon info (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
61. 08:08 PM - Re: RV-4 footwells (N223RV@aol.com)
62. 08:28 PM - Re: More Dynon info (Larry Bowen)
63. 08:33 PM - Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module (Kevin Maxwell)
64. 08:43 PM - Re: More Dynon info (Sam Buchanan)
65. 09:57 PM - Re: RV-4 footwells (John Starn)
66. 10:25 PM - Re: EFIS impressions from OSH(long)(was More Dynon info) (Ken Simmons)
67. 11:37 PM - Re: Avionics master relay (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Option for CS after fitting FP Sensinech |
--> RV-List message posted by: doug <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
> To run the fixed pitch on a factory new just bolt the prop
> on,
If I install a Sensenich 70CM with the 2.25" spacer on a Factory new
O-320 D1A I understand from Eustace's post that I do nothing but bolt it
to the engine. This is good news.
Now if I install the Sensenich and cut the Standard (used to be called a
Constant Speed cowl) polyester cowl to fit, and later I choose to
upgrade to a Constant Speed Prop, can someone tell me if the cowling
will then fit the CS prop?
I'm thinking a Hartzell or MT one day...
If it does I will be very happy...
Doug Gray
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
Actually the little ball in the tube is a slip / skid indicator.
If I remember correctly (and that is going back aways!) a turn
coordinator is a gyroscopic instrument with the sensitive axis tilted at
30 deg so as to couple about .5 X yaw (SIN 30 deg) to the roll axis to
make it more suitable in an autopilot application. A turn and bank is
strictly a yaw axis sensitve instrument - no roll coupling. Both the
turn coordinator and the turn and bank have a slip skid indicator to aid
in executing a coordinated turn.
The Ez Pilot has a solid state yaw rate sensitive gyro which is
processed into a digital rate signal for display on the display,
functionally similar to the display on the Navaid autopilot. The EZ
pilot does not have a slip skid indicator
Best Regards,
Chuck (via Jerry's email account)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gary & Carolyn
Zilik
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Woa! The turn coordinator is the little ball in the tube. Step on the
ball for coordinated turns. I do agree that the Navaid does not display
bank information. It will give you a 2 minute turn if set up correctly.
GZ
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Nylon T fitting that goes to break res. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon@msn.com>
Don't even bother with those nylon fittings. I didn't use them on my brakes, but
did use a few on my pitot static system. Several had small leaks that no amount
of tightening would fix. I recommend using brass or other metal fittings
for your brake lines. I found some inexpensive fitting from McMaster Carr that
seem to work quite well. However, if I were starting over, I would use "high
pressure" lines (Aeroquip or similar) and AN fittings everywhere and never
think about it again.
As for sealing penetrations in the firewall, if you don't want to use ProSeal,
I would recommend RTV.
Dean Pichon
RV-4 (150 hours)
Morgantown, WV
----- Original Message -----
From: Karie Daniel
Subject: RV-List: Nylon T fitting that goes to break res.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
There is a nylon T fitting that goes through the firewall to the break reservoir.
Do I prep the threads on this with anything? I'm guessing no since it's nylon
but I want to make sure. Also, I searched the archives but didn't find much
for what I would use to seal the hole where the break res goes through the firewall.
Any suggestions? Proseal is ugly to deal with for such a small area.
Thanks,
Karie Daniel
Sammamish, WA.
BTW....Thanks for everyone's help regarding the wingtip attach kit and the blind
rivet questions yesterday.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon@msn.com>
I would not worry about under-torquing the control-column pivot bolts if you use
castle nuts with cotter pins. Lately, I have been using self-locking castle
nuts (with cotter pins, of course). You might try those.
Dean Pichon
RV-4
Morgantown, WV
----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Evans
Subject: RV-List: Control stick bushings
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
While rigging my elevator control system for the first time, I noticed the
following problem with the bolts that attach the control sticks to the
control column that runs longitudinally in the center of the fuselage...
The sticks are mounted to the column with AN4 bolts that pass through the
center of a brass bushing. If I torque the nuts to the required 50-70
inch-pounds, the sticks bind and are very difficult to move. I have about
1/32" of bushing protruding out either side of the sticks, so it's not a case
of clamping the edges of the column to the sticks -- the sticks do not touch
the column at all.
Best I can figure, the 50-70 inch-pounds is causing the bushing to bow
slightly and preventing the stick from moving. If I back the nut off
slightly, the stick moves so nicely that it feels frictionless.
Anyone else had this problem? Should I just leave the nut backed off a little
and call it good enough (it's a castle nut and not a lock nut, so it won't be
going anywhere with the cotter pin installed)?
By the way, I called Van's about this, but they didn't really have any advice
for me.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB fuselage
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
My comment was based in the fact that the higher the idle, the harder it is
to slow the airplane down for landing, and the resulting longer landing
distances.
If you are using a wood prop and have idle problems, Mark Landol has a
balancer flywheel that not only let one idle slower, but dynamically
balances and smoothes the engine at all speed.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
1-518-731-6800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael McGee" <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Subject: RV-List: Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear
> --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
> At 16:55 2003-08-10 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
> >
> >Cy Galley wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> > >
> > >Why not turn down the idle? It will help you landings as well.
> > >
> > >Cy Galley
> > >
> >
> >Turn the idle down to what?
> >
> >Have you ever flown an 0-320 with wooden prop?
> >Not enough flywheel mass to get much below 900 RPM
> >without vibrating the sliding canopy off, if it's not closed
> >and locked due to all the shake, rattle and roll.
> >
> >It's all academic now that I've recently swapped the
> >10 pound wood prop for a 26 pound metal Sensenich.
> >
> >YMMV.
>
> 26 pound metal Sensenich? I went from an 18 pound Warnke toothpick to a
41
> pound Sensenich 70CM on my O-320. Have you checked your scales for
> accuracy? Of course a 10 pound prop WOULD need 900 rpm to idle! P-)
> Mike
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
>
>
Message 6
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JBON5L8FGD|June 13, 2003) at 08/11/2003 09:29:03
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Uvanni <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
I have an SD8 backup alternator wired up as shown in Bob's
all electric on a budget. I'm flying now but don't know how to
test the SD8 to see if it is working. I also have an E.I. AMP/Volt
meter installed with both alternators wired thourgh a switch to the
amp meter.
Thanks.............. Bruce
BRUCE UVANNI
BUVANNI@US.IBM.COM
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Prop weight was Re: Tire Wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
Cy Galley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>My comment was based in the fact that the higher the idle, the harder it is
>to slow the airplane down for landing, and the resulting longer landing
>distances.
>
>If you are using a wood prop and have idle problems, Mark Landol has a
>balancer flywheel that not only let one idle slower, but dynamically
>balances and smoothes the engine at all speed.
>
FWIW - I DON'T believe Landoll's device(s) BALANCE ANYTHING. If anybody
can authoritatively prove other-wise, please do so. For my money, it's
all a
matter of simple mass and weight doing what mother nature intended
rotating mass and weight to do. I spent $80 instead of $395 for Mark's
plain steel ring and am
as satisfied as anyone who sprung $395 for the fancier whiz-bang at the
time. To continue......
My idle and smoothness were far superior to anybody I'd ever met with a
wooden prop on an 0-320 since I'd been using a Mark LANDOLL 12 pound steel
flywheel weight with my wooden prop for added mass for over three years.
IMO, the lightweight wood prop was a disaster by itself, attempting to
deal with the
potent power pulsing 0-320 Lycoming. It's been my experience so far,
that it helped the Pacesetter prop situation dramatically, both at idle
and cruise, but.... doesn't begin to match the mass that exists further
out towards the tips of a metal prop. Not to mention, I no longer slow
down to 2100 rpm in the rain. However, I'm none
too happy about the 2600 rpm restriction. Never know when you might want
to race somebody in straight and level flight. 8-)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: 4" Alternator Pulley |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4@hotmail.com>
I have a brand new 4" alternator pulley I can sell you. It comes complete
with a little felt case to keep it in. I bought it for my RV4 but it to
close to the cowl. Contact me at tbarnes2314@aol.com
Tim Barnes
Meangreen RV4
>From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: 4" Alternator Pulley
>Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2003 12:17:03 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
>
>Anyone know what happened to Josh who made the 4 inch alternator pulleys
>for the Nindenso Alternator? Or better yet, how to get hold of one.
>Spruce doesn't carry them anymore and I think I'd like one to slow down the
>alternator speed.
>Chuck
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/10/2003 8:54:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
hellothaimassage@yahoo.com writes:
> While rigging my elevator control system for the first time, I noticed the
> following problem with the bolts that attach the control sticks to the
> control column that runs longitudinally in the center of the fuselage...
>
> The sticks are mounted to the column with AN4 bolts that pass through the
> center of a brass bushing. If I torque the nuts to the required 50-70
> inch-pounds, the sticks bind and are very difficult to move.
As these bolts are only acting in shear, there is no reason to torque them to
a standard setting. That's why you're using a castle nut and cotter pin.
You could also use one of those locking castle nuts here.
What you are trying to achieve in a control system is a smooth near zero
friction pivot in all axes for best handling and control harmony.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV's in Bakersfield, CA? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Barnes" <meangreenrv4@hotmail.com>
Hey we are all very nice people out here in Bakersfield. Yes there are a lot
of RV's & Rockets to look at. The best time to see the planes would be at
our EAA meeting Wednesday 8-13 @ 7:30 pm @ the EAA hangar.
>From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV's in Bakersfield, CA?
>Date: Thu, 07 Aug 2003 18:42:05 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>Patrick wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Patrick <bittybipe@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Hi all, I'll be traveling to Bakersfield from Detroit next week and was
>wondering if anyone with an RV was based in Bakersfield, CA? I'm working
>on an 8 myself.
> >
> >Pat
> >
> >
> >
> >
>There are many RVs at Bakersfield, but you have to really watch out
>because you are in John Harmon Rocket country. :-)
>
>Jerry
>do not archive
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
Well, you guys have got me curious! Those of you who are using constant speed
props:
What made you chose a 2-blade over a 3-blade? I've read Randy Lervold's report,
and for him
it appears to be SPEED!
http://www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
Thanks!
Bruce Breckenridge
RV-10 on order!
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Spray Painting 101 & Painting Archive Q&A site |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
Found a great site like our Matronics e-mail server we all use. There is
a archive section on painting that is fantastic. The painting 101 video
is also great. I have painted many cars in the past and knew a little
about painting...this video was very educational. Scroll to bottom of
page and link to archive section
Spray Painting 101
http://www.autobodystore.com
&
Painting 101
This video covers the following....
Tools and equipment
Breathing requirements and masks. Spray guns - Gravity vs. Siphon
feed Sanding blocks and hand tools etc. etc.
Materials
Sandpaper - Purpose and grits, wet and dry Tapes - Common masking
and special use types Paint - Variables in different products i.e..
acrylic lacquer, enamel and urethanes
Surface Prep
Variables prior to priming that effect outcome Priming and guide
coating Block sanding and analysis Masking for top coating Some
variables to look for Two-tone masking before clear coat
Spray Painting
Gun adjustments and handling Application variables
Finishing
Color sanding for flatness Buffing Compounds and techniques
And much more....
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: <tomvelvick@cox.net>
Hmmm. I thought the "little ball in the tube" was the slip-skid indicator. The
turn coordinator is the electrically driven gyroscope that is inclined to the
horizon so that the instrument senses roll as well as yaw. This is what I understand
the EZ Pilot replaces?
> Time: 02:21:13 PM PST US
> From: Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gary & Carolyn Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>
> Woa! The turn coordinator is the little ball in the tube. Step on the
> ball for coordinated turns. I do agree that the Navaid does not display
> bank information. It will give you a 2 minute turn if set up correctly.
>
> GZ
Message 14
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| Subject: | Dynon Battery and Heading Module |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have been confused about the heading status on the Dynon and even after
OSH I heard some conflicting information so I spoke with the Dynon folks and
subsequent to that call they put up a clarification on their web page. Read
it for yourself, but basically if you have the external module, the heading
works, without it there are issues in some airplanes. My airplane is loaded
with gadgets and the internal magnetometer does not work at all. I spoke
with an VFR RV-4 guy who said the heading worked great out of the box. A
$100 external box is not too much to ask. A $10,000 HSI requires an
external magnetometer. Putting it in the instrument was probably never a
reasonable expectation.
Based on that conversation, my new internal battery, and heading module,
were shipping that day.
I have flown about 10 hours with it so far, I have not had the occasion to
fly IFR yet but I have no qualms about it whatsoever based on my experience
to date. I would echo Kevin "the real test pilot" Horton's admonission that
it be backed up just like Vacuum instruments in a normal panel for IFR. I
have that well covered with a real Airspeed, Altimeter, Vacuum DG GPS and a
Navaid T/B-autopilot. I am very comfortable with the prospect of real IFR
with the Dynon. If the external Mag sensor works as advertised, I can back
heading up with the GPS, Compass, Rocky Mt encoder, and I will rip out the
entire Vacuum system. Yippie!!!!
I continue to be amazed at the utility , low cost, and small size, of the
instrument. I wish they had an HSI! They say the engine monitor is next.
bummer.
I have said before and I repeat, in a VFR airplane the ONLY gauge you need
is the Dynon. If you want a backup Altimeter or Airspeed indicator fine, but
any one should be able to land an RV VFR without either one of those. If
you have concerns about that you need some dual instruction worse than you
need another instrument.
The biggest drawback to the Dynon, is it sucks you into the cockpit, I find
myself flying Acro looking at the EFIS! It needs to have a warning that
flashes every 15 seconds, "Look outside Bonehead!" Watching TV is a serious
problem with all the magic airplanes. I have flown with people in the
Cirrus who NEVER look out! Really dangerous! The glass cockpit guys that
take BFRs with me can count on numerous failures and loads of back to
basics.
If I were building an IFR airplane from scratch, the Grand Rapids system,
even at 3 X the money, impressed me the most at OSH but, as a retrofit, I am
thrilled with my Dynon.
These are exciting times!
Tailwinds,
Doug
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
How much does auto fuel weigh compared to 100LL?
100LL weighs 6 lbs/US gallon, correct?
Steve
RV7A
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Cutter" <rcutter@cupower.com>
I had 13 years in the fuel business, and the best I can recall, most of the auto
and aviation fuels were calculated at 6 ppg.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
>How much does auto fuel weigh compared to 100LL?
>100LL weighs 6 lbs/US gallon, correct?
>
>Steve
>RV7A
>
>
Sent via the WebMail system at cupower.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Tom, are they also developing an interface to allow you to couple an
altitude hold to it as well?
Randy
> ----------
> From: Thomas Velvick[SMTP:tomvelvick@cox.net]
> Reply To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 6:52 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Digital Autopilot
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Velvick <tomvelvick@cox.net>
>
> I have been beta testing the EZ Pilot digital autopilot from Trio Avionics
>
> (<http://www.trioavionics.com>www.trioavionics.com). It replaces the
> Navaid
> AP gyro with a new digital head that has a lot more capabilities (if you
> dont already have a Navaid, they will also include a servo). It
> understands the NMEA sentence format from handheld GPSs as well as the
> aviation format sentence from panel mount GPSs. This means you can get
> rid
> of your smart coupler to connect a handheld gps. Since the EZ Pilot reads
>
> the complete sentence output from the GPS it knows exactly where it is in
> relation to the waypoints, not just the cross track error like the Navaid
> uses. This allows it to fly the flight plan and anticipate each waypoint
> as well as to fly intercepts and course reversals. The AP also has a two
> line digital display that shows several parameters at one time such as
> ETE,
> GPS groundspeed, Distance to Waypoint, ETC. In actual practice, my EZ
> Pilot AP is now working excellent and handles turbulence better than the
> Navaid does. Its also nice to look at the display and see your course
> compared to the bearing to the waypoint and the distance in hundredth of a
>
> mile you are off the centerline. It is normally flying within 0 to 50
> feet
> of the centerline. An additional digital gyro module is being developed as
>
> an option for enhanced turbulence control. There are other features that I
>
> haven't talked about. So if you are in the market for a digital autopilot
>
> or want to upgrade your Navaid, here's another option.
> Regards,
> Tom Velvick
> N53KT RV-4
> N188KJ RV-6a wiring.
> d
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Vince,
We have the same situation with cyl 2-4.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV-8A Cowl
>Date: Sat, 09 Aug 2003 15:48:44 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
>
>I am fitting my cowl (RV-8A) and I noticed that the distance between
>the top of the number 2 cylinder and the cowl top is much less than
>the number one cylinder and the cowl, is this normal? The distance
>on the left side is a little over the width of my index finger.
>
>How do I leave a gap of 1/2" between the cowl and the top of the
>baffle?
>
>If I rotate the cowl counter clockwise (looking aft) I can get a
>little more space over No. 2 BUT, the distance measured from the shop
>floor to the cowl inlet is an inch higher on the left side compared
>to the right. It appears that this would leave the running uphill
>from left to right (looking aft). I originally set the cowl up by
>measuring from the shop floor to the same location on each inlet. I
>adjusted the cowl to get the same dimension on each inlet so that
>they would be perfectly horizontal.
>
>I was planning on leaving the top of the cowl flush with the spinner
>to allow for some settling. The drawing calls for the cowl to be
>1/8" higher than the spinner; I could do that but what happens when
>the engine settles? Further, raising the cowl 1/8" really doesn't
>help the spacing over No. 2 much.
>
>There is a little more space between the engine and the side of the
>cowl on the right than the left also. I have been told that the
>motor mount is offset a little to account for asymmetrical thrust so
>I suppose that explains the lateral spacing difference.
>
>I don't want to run into problems down the road when I start trimming
>the baffles so I am holding off drilling the cowl until someone can
>help me resolve this issue.
>
>ANY HELP OUT THERE???? PLEASE!
>
>Vince Welch
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Anybody know how the Lancair/RV incident went down. (this may have already
scrolled by on the list, but I just got back from OSH myself.)
rumor I heard was RV turned into Lancair after both touched down, but I
didn't actually see it happen. I was looking the other way trying to direct
a C-195 into a parking spot. I didn't know it was the factory's Little Red.
I would now be suprised to hear this rumor is accurate as the Vans guys all
seem to fly very conservatively these days.
W
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Keith Vasey" <keith@galvinflying.com>
To be completely accurate, on a standard ISA day, 100LL weighs 5.82 pounds
per gallon.
Keith Vasey
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
sjhdcl@kingston.net
Subject: RV-List: fuel weight
--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
How much does auto fuel weigh compared to 100LL?
100LL weighs 6 lbs/US gallon, correct?
Steve
RV7A
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
I'm trying to mix small batches of pro seal (fuel tank sealant) and am
trying to stay with the 100:10 ratio that the can says. Am I being too
anal about this? Should I just treat it like epoxy and eyeball it?
Who knows an inexpensive source of scales that can measure down to a few
grams consistently. I have a letter scale but 5-1/2 ounces of sealant is a
lot more than I need at one time.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | wheel bearings heads up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
Hello All, I just wanted to pass on a little tidbit about wheel bearings I found
out at OSH. Recently my hangar flooded and as a result the wheel bearings on
my RV-6 became severely pitted. I ordered replacement bearings and races from
ac$, and it was around $120 to replace all four bearings/races. This is the
going price for these parts. My F1 project is also in the same hangar and it
is equipped with Grove wheels/brakes (sidenote: if you haven't gotten your finish
kit yet, I'd strongly recommend going with the Grove wheels/brakes, they
are all-around better than the Cleavelands; double-piston, bigger pads, heavier
disc, etc.) and I asked Robby at OSH if those needed replaced. He told if
they did it would cost about $40. Oh, BTW, the same bearings work with the Cleavelands,
they're interchangable. Crap, now you tell me!
So if you need to replace wheel bearings, call Grove and Robby will fix you up.
They won't say 'FAA Approved' but who cares.
Regards, Bob
RV-6 480 hrs, F1 Rocket under const
---------------------------------
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>I continue to be amazed at the utility , low cost, and small size, of the
>instrument. I wish they had an HSI! They say the engine monitor is next.
>bummer.
>
>
>
I also spoke to them at Oshkosh about this. They are trying to get the
engine monitor to market and are not really thinking about an HSI. I
think this is too bad. There are a zillion engine monitors on the
market with more coming. What the world really needs is a good, low
cost, electronic HSI. Right now the Sandel unit is the only game in
town, but is priced way too high for most RVers. Plus it has more
features than most of us need. Dynon obviously has the display figured
out, and I think the hardware and software would be quite a bit easier
to pull off than the EFIS was. If they had such a critter, priced in
the same range as the D-10, I think they would sell like hotcakes. I
would buy one right now. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to be a
priority for them. As I was discussing this with them at their booth,
the guy standing next to me agreed, and I told them that there are two
good data points for what people want. Maybe if there is enough of a
demand and people make their feelings known...
Jeff Point
RV-6 panel, wiring
Milwaukee WI
Message 24
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| Subject: | Dynon Battery and Heading Module |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
AMEN!!!
It's refreshing to hear that from a pilot with your experience! Too many
people starting to lose reliance on stick/rudder skills. Proof positive, a
friend of mine a couple hangars down has a 1929 Travelair D-4000, and it
only has 2 primary flight instruments....a single needle altimeter (NOT
accurate), and a backwards turning Airspeed. There is a whiskey compass and
a skid ball, but that's it!
My panel for the current RV6 has 2 instruments in it...a Dynon, and beside
the Dynon a panel mounted Garmin-196. I have an IK-2000 engine monitor,
which also has airspeed and altitude (for backup). Will have photos posted
soon of the "worlds emptiest RV6 panel" on my website.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, N664SB (IFR)-135hrs
RV6, N64YU (VFR)-finishing.
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Battery and Heading Module
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
snip.......
<I have said before and I repeat, in a VFR airplane the ONLY gauge you need
<is the Dynon. If you want a backup Altimeter or Airspeed indicator fine,
but
<any one should be able to land an RV VFR without either one of those. If
<you have concerns about that you need some dual instruction worse than you
<need another instrument.
<Tailwinds,
<Doug
Message 25
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| Subject: | Control stick bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Along the same lines, did those of you that had your fuse QB'd find that the
forward / back (up / down elevator movement) hit the insides of the floor
ribs so that you had very little forward stick movement? I'm pretty sure I
have the control column installed correctly and my choice seems to be to
trim more material from the four rib openings. Yes?
Randy
7A 821RL
> ----------
> From: Geoff Evans[SMTP:hellothaimassage@yahoo.com]
> Reply To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:54 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Control stick bushings
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
> While rigging my elevator control system for the first time, I noticed the
> following problem with the bolts that attach the control sticks to the
> control column that runs longitudinally in the center of the fuselage...
>
> The sticks are mounted to the column with AN4 bolts that pass through the
> center of a brass bushing. If I torque the nuts to the required 50-70
> inch-pounds, the sticks bind and are very difficult to move. I have about
> 1/32" of bushing protruding out either side of the sticks, so it's not a
> case
> of clamping the edges of the column to the sticks -- the sticks do not
> touch
> the column at all.
>
> Best I can figure, the 50-70 inch-pounds is causing the bushing to bow
> slightly and preventing the stick from moving. If I back the nut off
> slightly, the stick moves so nicely that it feels frictionless.
>
> Anyone else had this problem? Should I just leave the nut backed off a
> little
> and call it good enough (it's a castle nut and not a lock nut, so it won't
> be
> going anywhere with the cotter pin installed)?
>
> By the way, I called Van's about this, but they didn't really have any
> advice
> for me.
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB fuselage
>
> __________________________________
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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tests=AWL,BAYES_01,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,
USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Eyeball it, error on the side of extra black.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael McGee [mailto:jmpcrftr@teleport.com]
Subject: RV-List: Pro seal scales
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
I'm trying to mix small batches of pro seal (fuel tank sealant) and am
trying to stay with the 100:10 ratio that the can says. Am I being too
anal about this? Should I just treat it like epoxy and eyeball it?
Who knows an inexpensive source of scales that can measure down to a few
grams consistently. I have a letter scale but 5-1/2 ounces of sealant is a
lot more than I need at one time.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pro seal scales |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Never mind, found all I needed in the archives P-)
Mike
At 10:44 2003-08-11 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
>I'm trying to mix small batches of pro seal (fuel tank sealant) and am
>trying to stay with the 100:10 ratio that the can says. Am I being too
>anal about this? Should I just treat it like epoxy and eyeball it?
>
>Who knows an inexpensive source of scales that can measure down to a few
>grams consistently. I have a letter scale but 5-1/2 ounces of sealant is a
>lot more than I need at one time.
>
>Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
>13B in gestation mode
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Pro seal scales |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
When I want more accuracy than just "eyeballing it" I use popsicle sticks -
1 dad of black, 10 dabs of white. The mix ratio (within reason) only affects
cure time.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A N872RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael McGee" <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pro seal scales
> --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
> I'm trying to mix small batches of pro seal (fuel tank sealant) and am
> trying to stay with the 100:10 ratio that the can says. Am I being too
> anal about this? Should I just treat it like epoxy and eyeball it?
>
> Who knows an inexpensive source of scales that can measure down to a few
> grams consistently. I have a letter scale but 5-1/2 ounces of sealant is
a
> lot more than I need at one time.
>
> Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
> 13B in gestation mode
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Dynon Battery and Heading Module |
ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I agree with the both of you. How cool and helpful would that be. And they
should easily be able to do it with just a few hours programming.
Lets all send em an e-mail.
Please don't call cause it will just delay even further my shipment and my
vac instruments are on the fritz again.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Point [mailto:jpoint@mindspring.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Battery and Heading Module
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
>I continue to be amazed at the utility , low cost, and small size, of the
>instrument. I wish they had an HSI! They say the engine monitor is next.
>bummer.
>
>
>
I also spoke to them at Oshkosh about this. They are trying to get the
engine monitor to market and are not really thinking about an HSI. I
think this is too bad. There are a zillion engine monitors on the
market with more coming. What the world really needs is a good, low
cost, electronic HSI. Right now the Sandel unit is the only game in
town, but is priced way too high for most RVers. Plus it has more
features than most of us need. Dynon obviously has the display figured
out, and I think the hardware and software would be quite a bit easier
to pull off than the EFIS was. If they had such a critter, priced in
the same range as the D-10, I think they would sell like hotcakes. I
would buy one right now. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to be a
priority for them. As I was discussing this with them at their booth,
the guy standing next to me agreed, and I told them that there are two
good data points for what people want. Maybe if there is enough of a
demand and people make their feelings known...
Jeff Point
RV-6 panel, wiring
Milwaukee WI
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Control stick bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Yes, and yes, at least that's what Van's told me to do.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of McFarland,
Randy
Subject: RE: RV-List: Control stick bushings
--> RV-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy"
<Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Along the same lines, did those of you that had your fuse QB'd find that
the
forward / back (up / down elevator movement) hit the insides of the
floor
ribs so that you had very little forward stick movement? I'm pretty sure
I
have the control column installed correctly and my choice seems to be to
trim more material from the four rib openings. Yes?
Randy
7A 821RL
> ----------
> From: Geoff Evans[SMTP:hellothaimassage@yahoo.com]
> Reply To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:54 PM
> To: RV List
> Subject: RV-List: Control stick bushings
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans
<hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
> While rigging my elevator control system for the first time, I noticed
the
> following problem with the bolts that attach the control sticks to the
> control column that runs longitudinally in the center of the
fuselage...
>
> The sticks are mounted to the column with AN4 bolts that pass through
the
> center of a brass bushing. If I torque the nuts to the required 50-70
> inch-pounds, the sticks bind and are very difficult to move. I have
about
> 1/32" of bushing protruding out either side of the sticks, so it's not
a
> case
> of clamping the edges of the column to the sticks -- the sticks do not
> touch
> the column at all.
>
> Best I can figure, the 50-70 inch-pounds is causing the bushing to bow
> slightly and preventing the stick from moving. If I back the nut off
> slightly, the stick moves so nicely that it feels frictionless.
>
> Anyone else had this problem? Should I just leave the nut backed off a
> little
> and call it good enough (it's a castle nut and not a lock nut, so it
won't
> be
> going anywhere with the cotter pin installed)?
>
> By the way, I called Van's about this, but they didn't really have any
> advice
> for me.
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB fuselage
>
> __________________________________
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: wheel bearings heads up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
>
>Hello All, I just wanted to pass on a little tidbit about wheel bearings I
>found out at OSH. Recently my hangar flooded and as a result the wheel
>bearings on my RV-6 became severely pitted. I ordered replacement bearings
>and races from ac$, and it was around $120 to replace all four
>bearings/races. This is the going price for these parts. My F1 project is
>also in the same hangar and it is equipped with Grove wheels/brakes
>(sidenote: if you haven't gotten your finish kit yet, I'd strongly
>recommend going with the Grove wheels/brakes, they are all-around better
>than the Cleavelands; double-piston, bigger pads, heavier disc, etc.) and I
>asked Robby at OSH if those needed replaced. He told if they did it would
>cost about $40. Oh, BTW, the same bearings work with the Cleavelands,
>they're interchangable. Crap, now you tell me!
>
>So if you need to replace wheel bearings, call Grove and Robby will fix you
>up. They won't say 'FAA Approved' but who cares.
>
>Regards, Bob
>RV-6 480 hrs, F1 Rocket under const
Or, just try the local industrial bearing supplier. SKF is the biggee that
we deal with here at Intel for our fan bearing needs. They have every shape
and flavor of bearing known to man. If I needed wheel bearings, I would
check their part number and cross reference as needed, then buy locally if
possible. Without the "airplane" stigma, they just might cost a lot less.
Bob, do you have a bearing part number that I could look up for you? I'd
like to try out this theory. If I'm wrong, then I'll just hush up and go
humbly into the night. :)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick bushings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Yes. Relieve the holes as necessary. Was the same on the -6.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Control stick bushings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy"
<Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
>
> Along the same lines, did those of you that had your fuse QB'd find that
the
> forward / back (up / down elevator movement) hit the insides of the floor
> ribs so that you had very little forward stick movement? I'm pretty sure I
> have the control column installed correctly and my choice seems to be to
> trim more material from the four rib openings. Yes?
> Randy
> 7A 821RL
>
> > ----------
> > From: Geoff Evans[SMTP:hellothaimassage@yahoo.com]
> > Reply To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Sent: Sunday, August 10, 2003 8:54 PM
> > To: RV List
> > Subject: RV-List: Control stick bushings
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
> >
> > While rigging my elevator control system for the first time, I noticed
the
> > following problem with the bolts that attach the control sticks to the
> > control column that runs longitudinally in the center of the fuselage...
> >
> > The sticks are mounted to the column with AN4 bolts that pass through
the
> > center of a brass bushing. If I torque the nuts to the required 50-70
> > inch-pounds, the sticks bind and are very difficult to move. I have
about
> > 1/32" of bushing protruding out either side of the sticks, so it's not a
> > case
> > of clamping the edges of the column to the sticks -- the sticks do not
> > touch
> > the column at all.
> >
> > Best I can figure, the 50-70 inch-pounds is causing the bushing to bow
> > slightly and preventing the stick from moving. If I back the nut off
> > slightly, the stick moves so nicely that it feels frictionless.
> >
> > Anyone else had this problem? Should I just leave the nut backed off a
> > little
> > and call it good enough (it's a castle nut and not a lock nut, so it
won't
> > be
> > going anywhere with the cotter pin installed)?
> >
> > By the way, I called Van's about this, but they didn't really have any
> > advice
> > for me.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > -Geoff
> > RV-8 QB fuselage
> >
> > __________________________________
> > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Grounding block RV6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Folks,
I have the B&C grounding block - but can't figure out where to put it.
Obviously, it can't go where the brake reservoir sits, but are there other sites
that shouldn't be used?
Where did you that are flying put yours?
Ralph Capen
Got the power side of the wiring started - need to ground everything
Message 34
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| Subject: | True Airspeed indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
Listers,
I have a freshly overhauled True Airspeed indicator. Scale is in knots/mph.
$225.
Please reply off-line.
Thanks!
Scott
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Grounding block RV6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
Mine is on the firewall to the right and above the battery box. The battery
ground cable goes to the stud on the block with another cable going to the
engine.
Cash
In a message dated 8/11/2003 12:12:24 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
recapen@earthlink.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Folks,
>
> I have the B&C grounding block - but can't figure out where to put it.
>
> Obviously, it can't go where the brake reservoir sits, but are there other
> sites that shouldn't be used?
>
> Where did you that are flying put yours?
>
> Ralph Capen
> Got the power side of the wiring started - need to ground everything
Message 36
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| Subject: | Grounding block RV6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
I put mine on the passenger side to the right of the firewall recess. See
http://dmack.net/imagepages/groundingblock1.html
Don Mack
RV-6A in the same boat
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Folks,
I have the B&C grounding block - but can't figure out where to put it.
Obviously, it can't go where the brake reservoir sits, but are there other
sites that shouldn't be used?
Where did you that are flying put yours?
Message 37
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| Subject: | governor problems??? |
JBON5L8FGD|June 13, 2003) at 08/11/2003 15:47:18
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Uvanni <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
I'm having a problem and I hope someone out there might be able to help me.
My RV-6a has an O-320 A1A. I had to replace the sump to work on
a 6A. It has a constance speed prop on it. My problem is that the Woodware
governor is not working right. It will not control the speed of the prop.
As I
start to adjust it, there is no response, than all of a sudden it will go
to full corse
pitch. So it's either full fine or full corse, Does anyone have any Ideas
what might be
wrong with it.
Thanks...........
BRUCE UVANNI
BUVANNI@US.IBM.COM
RV-6A First flight 8/8/03
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Jeff,
Further to your point, they probably have the display for the HSI now, the
D-10, all they would really need to do is develop the software. The
additional inputs required, of course, would be the NAV and GPS data, which
doesn't seem that difficult. I wonder what I am overlooking, there must be
some reason why they are not pursing this, it seems such an obvious follow
on. Anyway, I'm leaving the spot below the D-10 on my panel open for the
possibility that this becomes a reality. Could they be sand bagging the
rest of the industry?
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Battery and Heading Module
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> >
> >I continue to be amazed at the utility , low cost, and small size, of the
> >instrument. I wish they had an HSI! They say the engine monitor is
next.
> >bummer.
> >
> >
> >
> I also spoke to them at Oshkosh about this. They are trying to get the
> engine monitor to market and are not really thinking about an HSI. I
> think this is too bad. There are a zillion engine monitors on the
> market with more coming. What the world really needs is a good, low
> cost, electronic HSI. Right now the Sandel unit is the only game in
> town, but is priced way too high for most RVers. Plus it has more
> features than most of us need. Dynon obviously has the display figured
> out, and I think the hardware and software would be quite a bit easier
> to pull off than the EFIS was. If they had such a critter, priced in
> the same range as the D-10, I think they would sell like hotcakes. I
> would buy one right now. Unfortunately this doesn't seem to be a
> priority for them. As I was discussing this with them at their booth,
> the guy standing next to me agreed, and I told them that there are two
> good data points for what people want. Maybe if there is enough of a
> demand and people make their feelings known...
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6 panel, wiring
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: RV vs Lancair |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
According to Mike, and some warbirds guys who witnessed it, he was
turning off the runway into the grass, actaully has the left main
allready in the grass, when the Lancair landed long and hot and struck
him from behind. Witnesses said the Lancair had enough speed that it
did several 360s down the runway before coming to a stop.
I took my first RV ride in this plane at Oshkosh 99, and had been
talking to Mike the previous day about coming out to Oregon for
transition training. I hope they get it fixed, and it sounds like they
will.
Jeff Point
RV-6 panel, wiring
Milwaukee WI
Wheeler North wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Anybody know how the Lancair/RV incident went down. (this may have already
>scrolled by on the list, but I just got back from OSH myself.)
>
>rumor I heard was RV turned into Lancair after both touched down, but I
>didn't actually see it happen. I was looking the other way trying to direct
>a C-195 into a parking spot. I didn't know it was the factory's Little Red.
>I would now be suprised to hear this rumor is accurate as the Vans guys all
>seem to fly very conservatively these days.
>
>
>W
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: governor problems??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
How long since the overnor has been overhauled. It almost sounds like the
internal spring assembly isn't working correctly, or the sliding poppet
valve is sticking, or possibly the governor isn't getting the oil it needs.
That could be one of several probelms, from the wrong governor pad gasket up
to internal oil passage blocks. Then again it could be that the prop pitch
change mechanism is also sticking and won't move until enough oil pressure
builds up.
Mike Robertson
>From: Bruce Uvanni <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: governor problems???
>Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 15:47:17 -0400 JBON5L8FGD|June 13, 2003) at
>08/11/2003 15:47:18
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bruce Uvanni <buvanni@us.ibm.com>
>
>
>I'm having a problem and I hope someone out there might be able to help me.
>My RV-6a has an O-320 A1A. I had to replace the sump to work on
>a 6A. It has a constance speed prop on it. My problem is that the Woodware
>governor is not working right. It will not control the speed of the prop.
>As I
>start to adjust it, there is no response, than all of a sudden it will go
>to full corse
>pitch. So it's either full fine or full corse, Does anyone have any Ideas
>what might be
>wrong with it.
>
>Thanks...........
>
>
> BRUCE UVANNI
> BUVANNI@US.IBM.COM
> RV-6A First flight 8/8/03
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Option for CS after fitting FP Sensenich |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Option for CS after fitting FP Sensinech
From:
doug (dgra1233@bigpond.net.au)
Date:
Mon Aug 11 - 3:13 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: doug <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Eustace Bowhay wrote:
To run the fixed pitch on a factory new just bolt the prop
on,
If I install a Sensenich 70CM with the 2.25" spacer on a Factory new O-320 D1A
I understand from Eustace's post that I do nothing but bolt it to the engine.
This is good newssnip
Doug Gray
Doug,
I would look into that assumption a little closer. After several phone calls by
me and others to Lycoming with confusing advice, here's what Tom Green of Van's
had to say.
Tom Green <tomg@vansaircraft.com> wrote:
Thanks Rick, we certainly recommend the piercing... as a matter of
fact, we are the folks who demanded that each new engine
delivered by Van's have SI 1435 in the box. Prior to that there was
only our word on it... Lycoming is pretty clear on it and we ahve
published it in our RVator within the last couple of years as well... I
am curious what information or where you got conflicting info on the
topic, Tom
Rick, for use with a FIXED PITCH propeller, the front plug must FIRST be removed,
the INTERIOR plug pierced, and then a NEW front plug inserted.Tom
Rick Galati FWF RV-6A 0320-D1A
---------------------------------
Message 42
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have a friend looking for a set of plans for RV-4 footwells. Can anyone
help?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
My Dynon shipped and is sch. to be delivered Thursday. As a matter of
reference, I too am impressed with the Dynon and Grand Rapids. Since I have
the Grand Rapid EIS unit, I went ahead and popped for their screen to
display the engine information and placed is directly under my Dynon unit.
This reserves the option of upgrading from their engine info to their
artificial horizon should I ever want, or need, the upgrade.
No vac., what a relief!!
I've got to find some "stuff" to put in my panel or there truly in going to
be a race to see who has the most bland IFR panel around............that is
until I fire it up, then it's a light show:-)
Doug, nice to hear the update.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Doug
I think a set of plans was published in the Rvator a few years ago. I think
that is where I got my plans. I will look tonight and see if I can find
them. If I do find them I will warn that the ones I made did not fit
without some mods. Made to the plans they interfered with the push rods to
the ailerons.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 footwells
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have a friend looking for a set of plans for RV-4 footwells. Can anyone
help?
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 45
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|
"Rv6-List" <rv6-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Garmin 196 Panel Mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi All,
I've finally posted a few pictures of my Garmin 196 panel mount that I've
made.
They can be seen at: http://www.steinair.com and click on "RV6 - N64YU".
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Do Not Archive
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: wheel bearings heads up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Brian Denk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
>>
>>Hello All, I just wanted to pass on a little tidbit about wheel bearings I
>>found out at OSH. Recently my hangar flooded and as a result the wheel
>>bearings on my RV-6 became severely pitted. I ordered replacement bearings
>>and races from ac$, and it was around $120 to replace all four
>>bearings/races. This is the going price for these parts. My F1 project is
>>also in the same hangar and it is equipped with Grove wheels/brakes
>>(sidenote: if you haven't gotten your finish kit yet, I'd strongly
>>recommend going with the Grove wheels/brakes, they are all-around better
>>than the Cleavelands; double-piston, bigger pads, heavier disc, etc.) and I
>>asked Robby at OSH if those needed replaced. He told if they did it would
>>cost about $40. Oh, BTW, the same bearings work with the Cleavelands,
>>they're interchangable. Crap, now you tell me!
>>
>>So if you need to replace wheel bearings, call Grove and Robby will fix you
>>up. They won't say 'FAA Approved' but who cares.
>>
>>Regards, Bob
>>RV-6 480 hrs, F1 Rocket under const
>>
>>
>
>Or, just try the local industrial bearing supplier. SKF is the biggee that
>we deal with here at Intel for our fan bearing needs. They have every shape
>and flavor of bearing known to man. If I needed wheel bearings, I would
>check their part number and cross reference as needed, then buy locally if
>possible. Without the "airplane" stigma, they just might cost a lot less.
>
>Bob, do you have a bearing part number that I could look up for you? I'd
>like to try out this theory. If I'm wrong, then I'll just hush up and go
>humbly into the night. :)
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>
It worked for me when I replaced mine several years ago. The number is
on the edge of each bearing race (2 numbers for a bearing set, IIRC).
Charlie
Message 47
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
Van's web site says they'll be doing tail wheel training in the 9 until it's
fixed.
Bob Hassel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Point
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV vs Lancair
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
According to Mike, and some warbirds guys who witnessed it, he was
turning off the runway into the grass, actaully has the left main
allready in the grass, when the Lancair landed long and hot and struck
him from behind. Witnesses said the Lancair had enough speed that it
did several 360s down the runway before coming to a stop.
I took my first RV ride in this plane at Oshkosh 99, and had been
talking to Mike the previous day about coming out to Oregon for
transition training. I hope they get it fixed, and it sounds like they
will.
Jeff Point
RV-6 panel, wiring
Milwaukee WI
Wheeler North wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Anybody know how the Lancair/RV incident went down. (this may have already
>scrolled by on the list, but I just got back from OSH myself.)
>
>rumor I heard was RV turned into Lancair after both touched down, but I
>didn't actually see it happen. I was looking the other way trying to direct
>a C-195 into a parking spot. I didn't know it was the factory's Little Red.
>I would now be suprised to hear this rumor is accurate as the Vans guys all
>seem to fly very conservatively these days.
>
>
>W
>
>
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Fuel tank vent lines |
--> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com
Listers--We are planning to fly our RV-6 IFR. We are planning to stay far
away from icing conditions, but you never know. Looking at the fuel tank vent
line openings it looks to me like they could get quickly clogged with ice.
Has anyone 1) experienced such a problem, 2) got any thoughts on whether it is
a
problem, 3) got any thoughts on how to redesign to avoid the problem? Thanks
in advance. --LeRoy Johnston in Ohio (panel, firewall, etc. etc.).
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: Option for CS after fitting FP Sensenich |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Rick:
Maybe my post on this subject needs further clarification.
As I posted, if the engine has the governor line installed, that is the line
from the governor adapter to the front gallery and has the correct cover on
the adapter (has a slot in it to allow the oil to return to the crankcase
and prevent any build-up of pressure between the two front plugs the rear
plug does not need to be pierced.
If the engine does not have a governor line installed and the rear plug is
installed then it would have to be pierced. An easy way to tell is to remove
the fitting from the front gallery (the one that the governor line goes to
and blow in it. If pressure builds it would mean that the rear plug is
installed and not pierced. This would require removal of the front plug and
piercing of the rear plug and a new front plug installed. This piercing
should be done with a sharp punch and not drilled to prevent and metal going
into the engine.
Bottom line is we don't want any pressure build-up between the two plugs to
prevent blowing the front one.
This says it is possible to have several different combinations depending on
the engine source.
Check list would be, if installing a fixed pitch on an engine with a
governor adapter and line installed to the front gallery disconnect the line
at the front and blow into the line,this will establish if the governor
adapter has the correct cover on it no pressure should build. Then blow into
the front gallery, if the pressure builds this means that the rear plug is
in place and a constant speed could be installed by only removing the front
plug. If pressure does not build the rear plug would have to be replaced to
run a constant speed.
I will be at Van's Homecoming and will check the new engines from Lycoming
and determine how they are shipped.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Option for CS after fitting FP Sensenich
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Subject:
>
>
> Option for CS after fitting FP Sensinech
>
> From:
>
>
> doug (dgra1233@bigpond.net.au)
>
> Date:
>
>
> Mon Aug 11 - 3:13 AM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: doug <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
>
> Eustace Bowhay wrote:
>
> To run the fixed pitch on a factory new just bolt the prop
>
> on,
>
>
> If I install a Sensenich 70CM with the 2.25" spacer on a Factory new O-320
D1A I understand from Eustace's post that I do nothing but bolt it to the
engine. This is good newssnip
>
>
> Doug Gray
>
>
> Doug,
>
>
> I would look into that assumption a little closer. After several phone
calls by me and others to Lycoming with confusing advice, here's what Tom
Green of Van's had to say.
>
>
> Tom Green <tomg@vansaircraft.com> wrote:
> Thanks Rick, we certainly recommend the piercing... as a matter of
> fact, we are the folks who demanded that each new engine
> delivered by Van's have SI 1435 in the box. Prior to that there was
> only our word on it... Lycoming is pretty clear on it and we ahve
> published it in our RVator within the last couple of years as well... I
> am curious what information or where you got conflicting info on the
> topic, Tom
>
>
> Rick, for use with a FIXED PITCH propeller, the front plug must FIRST be
removed, the INTERIOR plug pierced, and then a NEW front plug inserted.Tom
>
>
> Rick Galati FWF RV-6A 0320-D1A
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Option for CS after fitting FP Sensinech |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Doug:
On my 0360 Hartzell combination the distance from the rear edge of the
spinner to the face of the ring gear is 1 and 9/16 inches give or take a 32
second.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "doug" <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Option for CS after fitting FP Sensinech
> --> RV-List message posted by: doug <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Eustace Bowhay wrote:
> > To run the fixed pitch on a factory new just bolt the prop
> > on,
>
>
> If I install a Sensenich 70CM with the 2.25" spacer on a Factory new
> O-320 D1A I understand from Eustace's post that I do nothing but bolt it
> to the engine. This is good news.
>
> Now if I install the Sensenich and cut the Standard (used to be called a
> Constant Speed cowl) polyester cowl to fit, and later I choose to
> upgrade to a Constant Speed Prop, can someone tell me if the cowling
> will then fit the CS prop?
>
> I'm thinking a Hartzell or MT one day...
>
> If it does I will be very happy...
> Doug Gray
>
>
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Dynon Battery and Heading Module |
--> RV-List message posted by: n6jx@earthlink.net
I have recently gotten my EFIS and completely agree that the next device the market
needs is a good low-cost HSI. While there are a large number of excellent
engine monitors available (I have the Grand Rapids), there is simply no course
direction instrument available to replace the old mechanical units at any
sort of reasonable price. Blue Mountain has one, but the price is staggering
and it doesn't interface with an external radio. I think that Dynon is missing
a great market opportunity to fill all those DG holes they have created with
a second unit displaying a modern HSI format situational representation.
What a great retrofit combination it would be. I assume that they are not doing
it due to the challenges of creating the interfaces to all the different GPS
and Nav radios out there. Anyway, I hope they monitor this list and will take
these customer inputs into consideration.
Mel Jordan RV-6A N6JX
Tucson
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: wheel bearings heads up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Bob Japundza wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
>
>Hello All, I just wanted to pass on a little tidbit about wheel bearings I found
out at OSH. Recently my hangar flooded and as a result the wheel bearings
on my RV-6 became severely pitted. I ordered replacement bearings and races from
ac$, and it was around $120 to replace all four bearings/races. This is the
going price for these parts. My F1 project is also in the same hangar and
it is equipped with Grove wheels/brakes (sidenote: if you haven't gotten your
finish kit yet, I'd strongly recommend going with the Grove wheels/brakes, they
are all-around better than the Cleavelands; double-piston, bigger pads, heavier
disc, etc.) and I asked Robby at OSH if those needed replaced. He told if
they did it would cost about $40. Oh, BTW, the same bearings work with the Cleavelands,
they're interchangable. Crap, now you tell me!
>
>So if you need to replace wheel bearings, call Grove and Robby will fix you up.
They won't say 'FAA Approved' but who cares.
>
>Regards, Bob
>RV-6 480 hrs, F1 Rocket under const
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
Or just get the number of the bearings and go to a place that sell
bearings and probably get them cheaper than that. We have a place in
Portland called Bearings Inc. that sell just about every bearing you
could want.
Jerry
Message 53
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| Subject: | Fuel tank vent lines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
--> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com
Listers--We are planning to fly our RV-6 IFR. We are planning to stay far
away from icing conditions, but you never know. Looking at the fuel tank
vent
line openings it looks to me like they could get quickly clogged with ice.
Has anyone 1) experienced such a problem, 2) got any thoughts on whether it
is a
problem, 3) got any thoughts on how to redesign to avoid the problem?
Thanks
in advance. --LeRoy Johnston in Ohio (panel, firewall, etc. etc.).
Hi LeRoy
I don't intend to be in ice either but I drilled a 1/16" hole on the back
side of each vent outlet just in case. 1/16th is smaller than the carb jet
so it would probably not keep up with fuel flow but with fuel tank changes
might do the job in a pinch. I also put a small screen in each vent to keep
bugs out. Working fine at 190 hrs.
George McNutt
Langley, B.C. 6-A
Message 54
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| Subject: | Avionics master relay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Hello listers,
My panel was pre-wired by Chief and included a wired avionics master relay
only needing to be mounted by me. I am inquiring if anybody knows the
identification of all the terminals on the relay. It is configured as
follows:
-Looks just like a Master Relay only has two small terminals on front
instead of just one. Plus,
-There are two terminals on the top of the relay.
-The larger teminals on the sides are same as a master and one is marked
BAT"
-On the label there are two different numbers as follows:
- W-R/RBM (In bold)
-70-311224-5A
I am sure based on tracing some of the easier wire that it is a DP relay.
There is one wire left for me to hook up and of course the BAT terminal.
Just need to confirm what is what before I go hooking stuff I don't know
what is.
Thanks for any help
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB going to airport in early September
Message 55
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
I caused some confusion when I used the abbreviation AI in a previous post.
By AI, I mean Attitude Indicator. And yes, the Dynon requires air data to
maintain attitude.
Without it, the Dynon will slooooowwly return back to straight and level in
a prolonged slow turn.
Others (I believe Grand Rapids) use GPS to derive the same correction. I
have no idea how it works other than to say that reasonably prices
electronic gyros drift, and something else is needed to correct for the
drift.
I believe the longbow (long something, can't remember the exact names) and
Watson solid state AHRS (Attitude and Heading Reference System) can
function without outside correction, but they cost somewhere over $2000 for
just the AHRS, certainly not workable in an entire EFIS who's price point is
about $2000.
I believe (don't hold me to this) that the Blue Mountain unit does not
require external input to maintain correct attitude.
Also, I just spoke to Dynon today. They will be shipping the Pitot soon.
It will have Angle of Atack (AOA) ports built in. Also unlike the picture
on their web site, it will be an "L" shape to facilitate traditional
mounting under the wing.
They also confirmed for me that a heated Pitot was in the works.
Message 56
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| Subject: | Fuel tank vent lines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [m
> Listers--We are planning to fly our RV-6 IFR. We are
> planning to stay far
> away from icing conditions, but you never know. Looking at
> the fuel tank vent
> line openings it looks to me like they could get quickly
> clogged with ice.
> Has anyone 1) experienced such a problem, 2) got any thoughts
> on whether it is a
> problem, 3) got any thoughts on how to redesign to avoid the
> problem? Thanks
> in advance. --LeRoy Johnston in Ohio (panel, firewall, etc. etc.).
LeRoy,
I too have thought about that and believe the design would be prone to
iceup. I plan to drill a hole in the backside of the fitting, above the
point where ice from the front could clog it up. Any of these ideas
would be tough to validate...
During the building process, I contemplated a check valve venting to
somewhere, but didn't like the complication. Might be worth
considering, something with a little cracking pressure, just in case a
vacuum is developed.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 337 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: True Airspeed indicator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Scott ... is that knots on the outside?
If it is, and it's marked for a RV-6A ... I'll take it if it isn't gone.....
gil A
At 03:09 PM 8/11/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>I have a freshly overhauled True Airspeed indicator. Scale is in knots/mph.
>$225.
>Please reply off-line.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Scott
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: wheel bearings heads up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>Bob Japundza wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Japundza <bjapundza@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Hello All, I just wanted to pass on a little tidbit about wheel bearings
>I found out at OSH. Recently my hangar flooded and as a result the wheel
>bearings on my RV-6 became severely pitted. I ordered replacement bearings
>and races from ac$, and it was around $120 to replace all four
>bearings/races. This is the going price for these parts. My F1 project is
>also in the same hangar and it is equipped with Grove wheels/brakes
>(sidenote: if you haven't gotten your finish kit yet, I'd strongly
>recommend going with the Grove wheels/brakes, they are all-around better
>than the Cleavelands; double-piston, bigger pads, heavier disc, etc.) and I
>asked Robby at OSH if those needed replaced. He told if they did it would
>cost about $40. Oh, BTW, the same bearings work with the Cleavelands,
>they're interchangable. Crap, now you tell me!
> >
> >So if you need to replace wheel bearings, call Grove and Robby will fix
>you up. They won't say 'FAA Approved' but who cares.
> >
> >Regards, Bob
> >RV-6 480 hrs, F1 Rocket under const
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
>Or just get the number of the bearings and go to a place that sell
>bearings and probably get them cheaper than that. We have a place in
>Portland called Bearings Inc. that sell just about every bearing you
>could want.
>
>Jerry
Just for the record, I checked with a local office of Motion Industries, who
found the bearing and race. I sent the prices for each to Bob. Evidently,
they offer them at the same going rate that Robby gets them. So, I would
imagine any local bearing supplier could do the same thing, and just might
have them on the shelf. Worth a try if you need them I suppose.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank vent lines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
If you have a chance, take a look at a Citabria. It has just a 1/4" al. tube
for a fuel vent with a 90 deg bend to point into the airstream. The
"anti-ice" device it uses is a little clear plastic bubble that sits just in
front of the vent, the idea is that any ice will form on this and capture
the moisture from the air so the vent would be unaffected.
You might be able to do something similar by moving the vents back and
fastening something similar to the fuselage or use the usual vent position
and add some "bumps" to the lower cowl to shield the fuel vents. Something
in a teardrop shape would avoid any negative pressure affecting the vents.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
RV-3
----- Original Message -----
From: <jhnstniii@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel tank vent lines
> --> RV-List message posted by: > Listers--We are planning to fly our RV-6
IFR. We are planning to stay far
> away from icing conditions, but you never know. Looking at the fuel tank
vent
> line openings it looks to me like they could get quickly clogged with ice.
> Has anyone 1) experienced such a problem, 2) got any thoughts on whether
it is a
> problem, 3) got any thoughts on how to redesign to avoid the problem?
Thanks
> in advance. --LeRoy Johnston in Ohio (panel, firewall, etc. etc.).
>
>
Message 60
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|
| Subject: | Re: More Dynon info |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: More Dynon info
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> I believe the longbow (long something, can't remember the exact names)
and
> Watson solid state AHRS (Attitude and Heading Reference System) can
> function without outside correction, but they cost somewhere over $2000
for
> just the AHRS, certainly not workable in an entire EFIS who's price point
is
> about $2000.
>
> I believe (don't hold me to this) that the Blue Mountain unit does not
> require external input to maintain correct attitude.
Donald: You might be referring to Crossbow, who make AHRS systems. It is
my understanding that they make a package that Blue Mountain is using with
(at least) their EFIS Lite. It should not require intervention from other
systems to function correctly. Perhaps that is why the EFIS Lite costs
about $4500. However considering that 2 electric gyros cost about $3800
new, it doesn't seem so out of line. Still a lot of money.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 footwells |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I have the 18 years of RVator, and the plans are in there. Like another
lister said, mine too interfered with the aileron pushrods. I had to move the
front walls of the footwells back about 3/4" from the dimensions on those plans
and they cleared. Just a heads up, may save you some re-work.....
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 N223RV 75 hours
Message 62
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I think BMA's EFIS Lite relies on GPS data to verify correct attitude.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 systems
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gordon or Marge Comfort [mailto:gcomfo@tc3net.com]
> Sent: Monday, August 11, 2003 11:05 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: More Dynon info
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort"
> --> <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: More Dynon info
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
> >
> > I believe the longbow (long something, can't remember the
> exact names)
> and
> > Watson solid state AHRS (Attitude and Heading Reference
> System) can
> > function without outside correction, but they cost somewhere over
> > $2000
> for
> > just the AHRS, certainly not workable in an entire EFIS who's price
> > point
> is
> > about $2000.
> >
> > I believe (don't hold me to this) that the Blue Mountain
> unit does not
> > require external input to maintain correct attitude.
>
> Donald: You might be referring to Crossbow, who make AHRS
> systems. It is my understanding that they make a package
> that Blue Mountain is using with (at least) their EFIS Lite.
> It should not require intervention from other systems to
> function correctly. Perhaps that is why the EFIS Lite costs
> about $4500. However considering that 2 electric gyros cost
> about $3800 new, it doesn't seem so out of line. Still a lot
> of money.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
Message 63
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Battery and Heading Module |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Maxwell <kevmaxwell@mac.com>
On Monday, August 11, 2003, at 05:13 PM, n6jx@earthlink.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: n6jx@earthlink.net
>
> I have recently gotten my EFIS and completely agree that the next
> device the market needs is a good low-cost HSI. While there are a
> large number of excellent engine monitors available (I have the Grand
> Rapids), there is simply no course direction instrument available to
> replace the old mechanical units at any sort of reasonable price.
> Blue Mountain has one, but the price is staggering and it doesn't
> interface with an external radio.
BMA EFISLite with HSI, moving map, external magnetometer and autopilot
capability, three wire serial interface with SL30. This allows the
Lite to select the OBS, display a CDI based upon the Nav radio and/or
display a GS/LOC.
Twice the money of Dynon, but twice the capability. Price is not
staggering to me, but YMMV.
Kevin Maxwell
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
> _-
> ======================================================================
>
>
Message 64
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| Subject: | Re: More Dynon info |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Donald Mei wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
<snip>
> And yes, the Dynon requires air data to
> maintain attitude.
>
> Without it, the Dynon will slooooowwly return back to straight and level in
> a prolonged slow turn.
>
> Others (I believe Grand Rapids) use GPS to derive the same correction.
The Grand Rapids website emphatically states that GPS is not part of the
solution for their AHRS platform.
<snip>
> I believe (don't hold me to this) that the Blue Mountain unit does not
> require external input to maintain correct attitude.
Blue Mountain initially used a magnetometer in the AHRS solution but
went to GPS when the mag proved problematic.
Sam Buchanan
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 footwells |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
On HRII N561FS we used the RVator basic plans but made them wider, longer
and deeper. The HRII has a bit more room than the -4 but the larger cups
allows for some foot movement and comfort as it allows the toes to face out
without raising the heels. Since the HRII requires that you cut & fit most
things anyway the custom fit was just another project. KABONG 8*) (GBA)
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 footwells
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> I have the 18 years of RVator, and the plans are in there. Like another
> lister said, mine too interfered with the aileron pushrods. I had to move
the
> front walls of the footwells back about 3/4" from the dimensions on those
plans
> and they cleared. Just a heads up, may save you some re-work.....
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 N223RV 75 hours
>
>
Message 66
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| Subject: | Re: EFIS impressions from OSH(long)(was More Dynon info) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Sam and others.
I've watched the debates back and forth on the EFIS units and finally have to add
a little. I'll probably get my head chewed off as usual when I make a comment,
but can't help it.
I talked with all the concerned parties at OSH and I don't think any of them have
the "perfect" end all instrument.
Dynon's unit is impressive and they told me that they were planning other devices
including a moving map, engine monitor, HSI type device and an auto-pilot I
believe. The newer units would be able to read data from each other to compensate
for a failed display, which, in their opinion, was the most like cause of
failure. Their vision is to have a panel with little more than four of their
displays. The problem is that these devices are still vaporware. Their AOA is
not working yet and the way it's implemented will probably be of little value,
in my opinion.
I was initially impressed with the Blue Mountain lite since the upgrades. I've
read about the problems that Sam has had with them, but I wanted to give them
the benefit of the doubt. After learning that the lite will now interface with
their auto-pilot I asked about servo mounting possiblities in the RV-8. The answer
I got was, "We don't know, asked someone who's already done it so you can
figure it out". After the problems that Sam had I can imagine this being a scenario
of "Our stuff is perfect, you must have installed it wrong." I'm not so
sure a built in GPS is the way to go for a device like this anyway.
The Grand Rapids device was impressive at first as well. I've also read the info
on their website about no need for a GPS signal. There is also no mention either
way of relying on air data to maintain attitude. It is an input to the device
so maybe just an ommission. I don't know if they're taking orders yet, but
supposedly the units will not ship until October. From what I understand, they
didn't have a working unit at OSH, only a simulated artificial horizion. They
may be jumping the gun a little on the release date and may suffer problems
like Blue Mountain did. One example is the multiple screen layouts that they
are going to offer. These are both on their website and on the brochure, but couldn't
be demonstrated at OSH because they weren't programmed yet.
The last unit that I remember seeing (other than the multiple thousand dollar units
from Chelton and the like) was from PCflightsystems. I don't recall anyone
mentioning them yet. They offer a couple of self contained attitude indicators/EFIS
in addition to their EFIS software. One they have is similar in price
to the Dynon without all the Dynon's features and it's larger. All of their self
contained units seamed a little clunky to me and I've heard no feedback about
accuracy or flight testing done by the factory.
The bottom line is that I'm glad I don't need one yet. I can wait a while and see
what's still out there if and when the dust settles. At this point I'm leaning
toward the Dynon because of they way they've brought theirs to market.
Ken
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
>Donald Mei wrote:
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
><snip>
>> And yes, the Dynon requires air data to
>> maintain attitude.
>>
>> Without it, the Dynon will slooooowwly return back to straight and level in
>> a prolonged slow turn.
>>
>> Others (I believe Grand Rapids) use GPS to derive the same correction.
>
>
>The Grand Rapids website emphatically states that GPS is not part of the
>solution for their AHRS platform.
>
><snip>
>
>> I believe (don't hold me to this) that the Blue Mountain unit does not
>> require external input to maintain correct attitude.
>
>Blue Mountain initially used a magnetometer in the AHRS solution but
>went to GPS when the mag proved problematic.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
The Internet Truckstop
The first and largest
freight matching
service on the
Intenet
______________ ______________ ______________ ______________
Sent via the KillerWebMail system at truckstop.com
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: Avionics master relay |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/11/2003 6:28:38 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tim@bryantechnology.com writes:
> On the label there are two different numbers as follows:
> - W-R/RBM (In bold)
> -70-311224-5A
>
This relay is made by White-Rogers, so you could consult them for a wiring
diagram or you could buzz it out yourself with an ohmmeter.
My guess is that the two small terminals are for the primary coil and the two
large terminals are the normally open (NO) switched contacts. The case is
likely not electrically connected to anything. You would want to install a
catch diode (1N4002) back biased across the primary coil to protect your switch.
I would also guess that, since it is meant to be a continuous duty type
relay, the primary coil resistance is around 16 ohms.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
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