Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:56 AM - Flightcom "Clasic ANR" headset for sale (eregensburg)
2. 04:03 AM - Re: Upgrade to IFR (Dana Overall)
3. 05:18 AM - Re: Air Vents (N223RV@aol.com)
4. 05:23 AM - Re: Air Vents (Pat Perry)
5. 05:27 AM - Re: Cable RV-in (RV6 Flyer)
6. 06:20 AM - Re: Dynon: fittings & strain relief? (Mark Nielsen)
7. 07:48 AM - Re: Air Vents (Cy Galley)
8. 07:49 AM - GPS for Sale (Edward Cole)
9. 07:59 AM - Re: Dynon and airspeed (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
10. 08:40 AM - Re: Air Vents (N223RV@aol.com)
11. 08:58 AM - Re: Upgrade to IFR (Mike Robertson)
12. 09:09 AM - Re: Barbed Fitting for pitot (Mark Nielsen)
13. 09:12 AM - Re: VULTURES formation inbound - FLAPJACK Squadron ESCORT call to arms!!! Re: Fulton NY 9th RV forum (Chuck Weyant)
14. 09:19 AM - Re: Air Vents (Scott Bilinski)
15. 09:20 AM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Elsa & Henry)
16. 09:23 AM - Re: Air Vents (Michael McGee)
17. 09:25 AM - Re: Air Vents (Kosta Lewis)
18. 10:29 AM - Canadian Inports (Neil Henderson)
19. 10:36 AM - Dynon (Wheeler North)
20. 10:41 AM - Dynon Fittings (Wheeler North)
21. 10:45 AM - altitude (Wheeler North)
22. 10:45 AM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Stein Bruch)
23. 10:56 AM - Dynon (Wheeler North)
24. 11:04 AM - Re: Canadian Inports (terence.gannon@telus.net)
25. 11:08 AM - cabin heat (Jim and Bev Cone)
26. 11:57 AM - Re: Dynon Shipped (Dana Overall)
27. 12:06 PM - How'd you prime inside of control rods? (Roger Evenson)
28. 12:38 PM - Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? (RV3)
29. 02:08 PM - Re: Air Vents (Cy Galley)
30. 02:11 PM - Re: AOA (Kevin Horton)
31. 02:31 PM - Re: AOA (Kevin Horton)
32. 03:19 PM - Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? (Phil Birkelbach)
33. 03:44 PM - Re: Re: Windshear (Shemp)
34. 04:05 PM - Re: Computer reliability was: Dynon Shipped (kempthornes)
35. 04:52 PM - Re: Computer reliability was: Dynon Shipped (RV3)
36. 05:34 PM - Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? (Dean Pichon)
37. 06:43 PM - Re: Air Vents (Ross Scroggs)
38. 07:03 PM - Re: Air Vents (David Taylor)
39. 07:23 PM - Prop Mounting/Flywheel... (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
40. 08:14 PM - Re: Prop Mounting/Flywheel... (Gil Alexander)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Flightcom "Clasic ANR" headset for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg <eregensburg@triad.rr.com>
I have a Flightcom classic ANR headset for sale (6 months old). Cost $400.
Will sell for $250 (includes shipping within US)There is nothing wrong with
the headset. I bought it for my wife but my David Clarks fit her head better
so I bought her a set of them too.
Anyone interested contact me at eregensburg@triad.rr.com .
Ed Regensburg
Greensboro NC
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Upgrade to IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Laird, the 430 merely has to be positioned in front (or very near) of the
pilot to avoid installation of an annunciator panel. The CDI has to be
within the scan........that can be a long way away. After that is complete,
comply with your pitot static requirements and take the ol girl up. You
must demonstrate to yourself the unit works as advertised. Since the the
430 is terminal and approach certified, find you a waypoint and track too
it, on your way back select you an approach and shoot it. If you can't find
the exact verbage, let me know and I'll run out to the hangar and drum up
the Bonanza log book entries.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/14/2003 4:53:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
rscroggs@comcast.net writes:
> Anybody know the best way to attach a NACA duct to the skin surface so the
> hose could be replaced
> at some point in the future? The ones I saw may have been prosealed to the
> inside surface of the skin
> but there is no way to replace the hose if that is done. You can't reach it
> without removing the wing.
> Ideas???
>
Hi Ross,
I did this exact set-up in my RV-4. I pro-sealed the duct in place and used
4 pull rivets (CS4-4) with a washer as a back up to the rivet on the plastic
side of the NACA duct. I am sure it will eventually get a hole and my plan at
that time is to make an access panel behind the duct. If you are still in the
building phase, I'd just make an access panel now. Thinking back on it, I
should have made the panel before I painted......
Hope this helps, it really feeds a lot of air to the rear seat.
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 78 hours
(In Michigan now, used to live in McDonough, GA)
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
I have it on my -4 and I think it's standard for the -8 right from the
drawings.
The duct was easy to install with the wing off but I'm sure when the time
comes to replace it there could be some trouble getting it in there. In
most cases I would think the new hose could be pulled in by attaching it to
the old hose and pulling it through. In any case the NACA duct would have
to be removed to attach the hose to it.
My NACA duct is pop rivited into position using CS pop rivits (nobody can
see them down there).
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: "Ross Scroggs" <rscroggs@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Air Vents
>Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 16:48:04 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Scroggs" <rscroggs@comcast.net>
>
> I saw an air vent installation on Saturday that I hadn't seen before, I
>bet everybody else has, except me.
>It was installed on the bottom of the wing and had a 2 inch hose directing
>the air into the rear seat of an
>RV-4.
> Anybody know the best way to attach a NACA duct to the skin surface so
>the hose could be replaced
>at some point in the future? The ones I saw may have been prosealed to the
>inside surface of the skin
>but there is no way to replace the hose if that is done. You can't reach
>it without removing the wing.
> Ideas???
>
>Ross Scroggs
>RV-4 Wings #3911
>Conyers, GA.
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Wheeler:
No flyer yet. Will send one if I can get one put together. (Give me a few
weeks.) Still a lot of planning going on. Need to delegate to the
volunteers and get this done.
Gary
----Original Message Follows----
From: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Cable RV-in
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Gary,
send me a flyer and I'll post'em around our local airports in San Diego area
Wheeler
Time: 06:46:13 PM PST US
From: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
vansairforce@yahoogroups.com, NorCal-rvlist@yahoogroups.com,
AZ_RVList@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: SoCAL RV RendezVous
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Want to give everyone an advance notice of the upcoming SoCAL RV RendezVous
on Saturday 1 November 2003 at Cable Airport (CCB,
http://www.cableairport.com) Upland, California.
Want to get the word out and have as many RVs show up as possible.
Any suggestions on FREE advertising is welcome off list. Posted message to
EAA and AOPA yesterday.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,349 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | RE: Dynon: fittings & strain relief? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Nielsen" <mark.nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
>
> For those who have installed the Dynon EFIS-D10, maybe you
> can help me out:
>
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2003/20030813_dynon_tubin
> g_fitting.jpg
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2003/20030813_pitot_fitting.jpg
>
> I used a plastic connector shell on the D-25 connector, and
> as you can see in the photos the ports for pitot/static
> tubing are very close to the connector shell. Too close to
> the use the fitting pictured.
>
Dan,
For my Dynon EFIS, I used barbed fittings instead of a compression
fittings. With the barbed fittings, there was adequate clearance
between the fitting and the connector shell. (My connector shell looks
the same as yours.)
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 865 hrs (50 hrs on the Dynon)
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Aren't we being a little anal?
How often you think you will have to replace that hose?
It is shielded from the elements and is not in the hot engine compartment.
I have similar hoses in my factory built that have survived several decades
inside the engine compartment and are still o.k.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Vents
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 8/14/2003 4:53:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rscroggs@comcast.net writes:
>
> > Anybody know the best way to attach a NACA duct to the skin surface so
the
> > hose could be replaced
> > at some point in the future? The ones I saw may have been prosealed to
the
> > inside surface of the skin
> > but there is no way to replace the hose if that is done. You can't
reach it
> > without removing the wing.
> > Ideas???
> >
>
> Hi Ross,
> I did this exact set-up in my RV-4. I pro-sealed the duct in place and
used
> 4 pull rivets (CS4-4) with a washer as a back up to the rivet on the
plastic
> side of the NACA duct. I am sure it will eventually get a hole and my
plan at
> that time is to make an access panel behind the duct. If you are still in
the
> building phase, I'd just make an access panel now. Thinking back on it, I
> should have made the panel before I painted......
>
> Hope this helps, it really feeds a lot of air to the rear seat.
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4 78 hours
> (In Michigan now, used to live in McDonough, GA)
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole@comcast.net>
If any one is interested, I have a Garmin GPS 90 for sale It comes with
manuals, remote antenna, and cable. Excellent Condition $100
Notify me off line
edwardmcole@comcast.net
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Dynon and airspeed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
They are using airspeed to compensate for acceleration forces.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Ford
Subject: RV-List: Dynon and airspeed
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
Can someone explain how the Dynon is dependent on airspeed for attitude
information when you can hold it in your hand, rotate, pitch up or down and
the unit will display that attitude information. However, I have noticed
that when checking my pitot system with a syringe, the Dynon would pitch up
while simulating increased airspeed, then slowly stabilize to level
attitude.
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
In a message dated 8/15/2003 10:49:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
> Aren't we being a little anal?
>
> How often you think you will have to replace that hose?
>
> It is shielded from the elements and is not in the hot engine compartment.
>
> I have similar hoses in my factory built that have survived several decades
> inside the engine compartment and are still o.k.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
My only thought on this is that it is very likely to get a hole where it
comes in through the wing lightening holes and into the fuse. I did my best to
protect it in these areas, but it does lay on the edge of 4 wing rib lightening
holes and then again on the hole into the fuse. I'm guessing I'll eventually
get a rub through there at some point....
-MK
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Upgrade to IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
When it comes to major alterations/changes read your Operating Limitations.
They will/should tell you what to do. If you have older Limitations it
will/should have something about informing your local FSDO prior to making
any alterations/changes. With the newer Limitations it says that you just
make the major alterations , make a lofbook entry, place the aircraft back
into a minimum 5 hour test flight period, fly the test flight, sign off the
logbook, and go on your merry way. In neither case will you need to do a
337. A logbook entry is all thats required.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Upgrade to IFR
>Date: Thu, 14 Aug 2003 15:19:45 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
>Laird,
>
>If you haven't already, read AC 20-138. It gives you the guidance and the
>logbook entries to make. My interpretation was that you have to
>demonstrate
>to yourself that the thing works as advertised by shooting several
>approaches as described in the AC. Make the appropriate logbook entries,
>then you are good to go. If you call your local FISDO they might bring up
>a
>337 requirement. First, I don't think you need a FISDO signoff or DAR
>signoff or a 337, however, it might be considered a major alteration which
>would require a new test period. If it were me, I would check with the
>FISDO only to the extent that I might need a new test period for the
>alteration.
>
>Happy flying.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4
>RV-6
>RV-7 QB (Building)
>Vero Beach, FL
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Laird Owens" <owens@aerovironment.com>
>To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>; "SoCAL-RVlist"
><SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Upgrade to IFR
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
> >
> > OK,
> >
> > So I went out and got my IFR ticket recently (in a C172...ugg). Now I
> > want to upgrade my RV so I can use it to pop thru the coastal
> > overcast once in a while and to stay current.
> >
> > I've ordered a new Garmin-430/CDI from John Stark, and that'll be
> > here in a couple of weeks. Putting in the 430 is no big deal (except
> > to my wallet).
> >
> > Aside from the 91.411 Altimeter system/altitude reporting equipment
> > check (I already have the 91.413 transponder check), the standard 30
> > day VOR check, and other equipment required for IFR flight (ie,
> > clock, gyros...) what else is required to use the 430 in the system?
> >
> > Do I just note the installation in the log book, then boldly launch
> > into the soup (of course that's not going to happen until I get
> > enough hood time and feel comfortable using the 430), or is there
> > some kind of DAR signoff, FSDO signoff, or some special verbiage for
> > the log book.
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Laird RV-6 780 hrs
> > SoCal
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | RE: Barbed Fitting for pitot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Nielsen" <mark.nielsen@fiedler-lp.com>
Larry,
I used 3/16T x 1/8P barbed polyethylene fittiings with 1/4 od vinyl
tubing (hardware store).
(Aircraft Spruce Part No. 0700-150, p 111, 2002-03 catalog.) I also
used 3/16 x 3/16 x 3/16 tees (0715-011) in the system to connect to
other instruments. I moistened the fitting and applied a LITTLE heat to
the tubing to make the assembly easier. After assembled, I found that I
could not remove the fitting without cutting the tubing.
I don't know about the suitability of using vinyl tubing behind the
panel other than mine looked and felt like new after 6+ years of flying.
I found the vinyl tubing very easy to work with to hook up multiple
instruments.
Mark Nielsen
-----Original Message-----
From: LarryRobertHelming [mailto:lhelming@sigecom.net]
Subject: Barbed Fitting for pitot
You wrote, "For my Dynon EFIS, I used barbed fittings instead of a
compression
fittings. With the barbed fittings, there was adequate clearance
between the fitting and the connector shell. (My connector shell looks
the same as yours.)
Mark Nielsen
RV-6, 865 hrs (50 hrs on the Dynon)
----
Can you give me and everyone on the list a part number for reference on
the barbed fitting. I am going to have the same problem.
Thanks,
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: VULTURES formation inbound - FLAPJACK Squadron ESCORT call |
to arms!!! re: Fulton NY 9th RV forum
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Don't forget to "do not archive" with this type of post.
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6160hp@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: VULTURES formation inbound - FLAPJACK Squadron ESCORT call
to arms!!! re: Fulton NY 9th RV forum
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6160hp@aol.com
>
> VULTURES be advised.....
>
> OK were gonna try to meet up with you from Oswego Co. and local CNY group.
We figure HHHeck you can't have all the FUN!!!!! Damm it!
>
> Flapjack 1 and 2 are mustering our ranks to see if we can meet with you at
Branford PA.... 8 to 8:30am Saturday Sept 13 AM.
>
> KFZY, Oswego County Airport, Fulton NY, 9th annual RV forum again praying
for VFR will certianly be the RV highlight for builders, wanna be's and
pilots................. be there or be plain.....and without planes!!!
>
> ( Joseph Czachorowski feel free to email me to coordinate I am not sure I
have your email address right )
>
> Regards
> David McManmon
> RV6 Flyer-Builder-Pilot N58DM
> Call sign: Flapjack2
> OH and President, EAA 486
>
>
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Yea you think that hose looks a little fragile, well so did I. Just try
punching a hole through it with a screw driver. I was very impressed with
its toughness.
At 09:41 AM 8/15/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Aren't we being a little anal?
>
>How often you think you will have to replace that hose?
>
>It is shielded from the elements and is not in the hot engine compartment.
>
>I have similar hoses in my factory built that have survived several decades
>inside the engine compartment and are still o.k.
>
>Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
>Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <N223RV@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Vents
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>>
>> In a message dated 8/14/2003 4:53:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>> rscroggs@comcast.net writes:
>>
>> > Anybody know the best way to attach a NACA duct to the skin surface so
>the
>> > hose could be replaced
>> > at some point in the future? The ones I saw may have been prosealed to
>the
>> > inside surface of the skin
>> > but there is no way to replace the hose if that is done. You can't
>reach it
>> > without removing the wing.
>> > Ideas???
>> >
>>
>> Hi Ross,
>> I did this exact set-up in my RV-4. I pro-sealed the duct in place and
>used
>> 4 pull rivets (CS4-4) with a washer as a back up to the rivet on the
>plastic
>> side of the NACA duct. I am sure it will eventually get a hole and my
>plan at
>> that time is to make an access panel behind the duct. If you are still in
>the
>> building phase, I'd just make an access panel now. Thinking back on it, I
>> should have made the panel before I painted......
>>
>> Hope this helps, it really feeds a lot of air to the rear seat.
>> -Mike Kraus
>> N223RV RV-4 78 hours
>> (In Michigan now, used to live in McDonough, GA)
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>If you are going to use a Dynon for IFR, you should equip your
>aircraft so that a total failure of the Dynon leaves you no worse off
>than a failure of a vacuum pump or electrical system on a more
>conventionally equipped aircraft. You also need to assume that the
>Dynon could start displaying misleading info at any time.
I have been wanting to add my 2 bits to this post but my PC has been "hors
de combat" as we were hit by a devastating lightning stroke which fried my
modem and many others down the street, transient suppressors
notwithstanding!
Anyway, my concern about the trend to go all "glass" on instruments, centers
on the reliability of the electronic components, microcircuits, etc, that
make up the bulk of these instruments. I don't know what component screening
and reliability standards are followed by Dynon and others that manufacture
"glass" instruments and this is not to say they don't do a thorough job
here, but I just don't know and am wondering if you people that are ordering
these instruments are satisfied by the reliability information provided. A
failure of a microprocessor could wipe out the whole instrument's operation,
not a nice event in IFR without back-up! Hence my 100% agreement with Kevin
Horton's Post, portions of which, are copied above
I have extensive background on component reliability, as during the 70's
when we at Spar Aerospace were designing and building he electronic systems
for the Space Shuttle remote manipulator, I was manager of the Product
Design Assurance Dept. which employed a group of dedicated component,
materials and process and reliability engineers. We had to follow stringent
NASA specs and on components, our suppliers had to comply to the testing and
screening requirements of MIL 38510 class R (and later class S) standards,
which require EVERY component to undergo Burn-in, Thermal cycling, etc to
the spec requirements. Suffice it to say that many batches failed these
tests. It would be interesting to know what aviation instrument
manufacturers do to satisfy their reliability standards.
We are quite used to turn on our PCs every day and get reliable operation,
but the environment on a desk-top is quite different to that in an aircraft
where firing up in sub-zero temperatures with the resulting thermal shocking
and vibration will take their toll.
The late Bill Benedict attended one of the RV Forums (held every September
at Oswego airport in Fulton, NY) in the prototype RV-8. It had a "glass"
engine monitoring systems which were in Van's Accessories catalog at the
time for $ 3+k .I asked him about the reliability of it and he told me that
during the trip to NY, the manifold pressure monitoring system "gave up the
ghost". I was undecided whether to install one of those in my 6-A. I decided
to save a bunch of $ and installed "steam gauges" instead!
Caveat emptor!
Cheers!! -----Henry Hore
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 08:11 2003-08-15 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 8/14/2003 4:53:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>rscroggs@comcast.net writes:
>
> > Anybody know the best way to attach a NACA duct to the skin surface so the
> > hose could be replaced
> > at some point in the future? The ones I saw may have been prosealed to
> the
> > inside surface of the skin
> > but there is no way to replace the hose if that is done. You can't
> reach it
> > without removing the wing.
> > Ideas???
> >
>
>Hi Ross,
>I did this exact set-up in my RV-4. I pro-sealed the duct in place and used
>4 pull rivets (CS4-4) with a washer as a back up to the rivet on the plastic
>side of the NACA duct. I am sure it will eventually get a hole and my
>plan at
>that time is to make an access panel behind the duct. If you are still in
>the
>building phase, I'd just make an access panel now. Thinking back on it, I
>should have made the panel before I painted......
>
>Hope this helps, it really feeds a lot of air to the rear seat.
>-Mike Kraus
>N223RV RV-4 78 hours
>(In Michigan now, used to live in McDonough, GA)
While I agree with Cy on the need (or lack of need) to change the hose, how
about this:
Instead of cutting the hole to just fit the plastic NACA duct, cut out a
hole for an inspection cover big enough for the NACA vent. Cut the NACA
Vent hole in the inspection cover and attach the NACA vent to the
inspection cover. If you need to change the hose just remove the
inspection cover to have access to the back side. In my flying RV-4, this
may be the method I end up using.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>My only thought on this is that it is very likely to get a hole where
it
>comes in through the wing lightening holes and into the fuselage.....
Mine has been in place for over 700 hours. It is visible at the wing
root during conditional inspection and shows no signs of wear. It
doesn't move much. Protect it as it comes through the rib and it will
last a long time.
It works fine providing air for the back seat. It'll blow your wig off
if you don't have your headset on.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Message 18
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| Subject: | Canadian Inports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
Canadian Listers
I'm considering ordering some parts from Van's for delivery to my daughter who
lives near Calgary. We are due to visit her soon and am thinking I might be able
to make a useful saving. Could anyone let me know what the import costs likely
to be on a small parcel from Van's into Canada i.e. Shipping, Duty, Sales
Tax ect. Similarly on a Navaid. Thanks for you assistance.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Final Stages. nr Aylesbury UK
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Time: 08:32:53 AM PST US
From: "Donald L. Erickson" <dle@joplin.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald L. Erickson" <dle@joplin.com>
If I install a Dynon D10 EFIS then I need their pitot tube for correct
airspeed,
static and AOA. Does this tube mount in a Gretz mount and if so which one.
What are some of your thoughts? Thanks
Don RV8 N874DE
Don,
I don't know if this got replied to, but you can currently tap into your
existing pitot/static. This will provide correct airspeeds if your existing
ports are accurately installed. When they release their Pitot/AOA tube it
will be specifically designed to go into the Gretz mount like other
conventional assemblies. Bear in mind though that their unit does not
provide static, at least the prototype doesn't, I believe that the standard
ones won't, but this could be erroroneous on my part.
In my installation I chose to add their probe on the right wing, and keep
the old vans probe on the left wing for redunancy. Both airspeeds track
evenly. They differ alot if I don't use a common static port, which is the
vans dual pop rivet type.
W
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Dan,
I was able to find 90 deg 25 pin rs232 at Frys, and the 90 deg 1/8" fittings
at spruce, but I had to use brass. I'm sure the nylons are available in 90s
I just didn't find a source.
W
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Time: 01:59:21 PM PST US
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV Route/Altitudes
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I was just looking at the route from my home to LRU for the 3rd LOE RV
fly-in, and because of terrain and MOA/Restricted areas, my route has
several 'dog legs' wherein I would be a few degrees east of south, and
oppositely, a few degrees west of south from time to time. This would, if
practice is followed exactly, require changes in altitude for odd to even
thousands several times during the flight. This is something I don't care to
do.
Question: how would you do it?
John
John,
stay below 3500 agl.
W
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
This whole thread should be pretty easy to summarize....
If you're flying hard IFR, you should have backups. No mater WHICH system
you go with, vacuum or digital. Remember Vac pumps also fail with little to
NO advance indication.
If you're flying day VFR, backups are a waste of money. The airplane will
not automatically crash if your Dynon goes blank or if your engine monitor
dies. "Stick & Rudder" skills still apply.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Elsa & Henry
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Shipped
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
snip.....
Anyway, my concern about the trend to go all "glass" on instruments, centers
on the reliability of the electronic components, microcircuits, etc, that
make up the bulk of these instruments. I don't know what component screening
and reliability standards are followed by Dynon and others that manufacture
"glass" instruments and this is not to say they don't do a thorough job
here, but I just don't know and am wondering if you people that are ordering
these instruments are satisfied by the reliability information provided. A
failure of a microprocessor could wipe out the whole instrument's operation,
not a nice event in IFR without back-up!
......I decided to save a bunch of $ and installed "steam gauges" instead!
Caveat emptor!
Cheers!! -----Henry Hore
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Guys,
as has been said, the airspeed input is used to correct slight errors in the
attitude display, but it will work just fine without ASI input (I tested
this in flight), particularly if you don't change speed a lot.
When on the ground taxiing one can slightly see these errors, particularly
as one accelerates down the runway. But as the ASI comes up with the tail up
the error disappears.
The blue mountian guys are absoulutley full of it to bad mouth the D-10
based upon Dynon's use of ASI to correct for natural errors that BM doesn't
seem to be correcting for.
W
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Canadian Inports |
--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
Hi, Neal...
Shipments from the US to Canada are duty free (thank you, NAFTA) for products
manufactured in the US, and for which all of Van's stuff seems to qualify --
at least it has for me to this point. There is no provincial sales tax in
Alberta. The only item that will be payable will be GST (the equivalent of
your VAT) and that's only 7%, and I'm reasonably sure you can claim that back
when you head back to UK. Shipping charges Van's should be able to quote
fairly precisely, and of course, will be directly proportional to weight, size
and the speed with which you want it delivered. You can clear the products
through customs yourself (if you are prepared to stand in a line for a short
while) and save the shippers 'brokerage fee'.
Let me know if there is anything else you need. If you would like to visit
with some RV builders while you're here, let me know! Cheers...
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Wings"
Quoting Neil Henderson <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>
> Canadian Listers
>
> I'm considering ordering some parts from Van's for delivery to my daughter
> who lives near Calgary. We are due to visit her soon and am thinking I might
> be able to make a useful saving. Could anyone let me know what the import
> costs likely to be on a small parcel from Van's into Canada i.e. Shipping,
> Duty, Sales Tax ect. Similarly on a Navaid. Thanks for you assistance.
>
> Neil Henderson RV9-A Final Stages. nr Aylesbury UK
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
One way to increase the heat output of the heat muff is to take a long door spring
and stretch it out a bit and then wrap it around the exhaust pipe inside the
muff. This increases the area that radiates heat and also slows the airflow
a bit which also increases heat transfer.
Jim Cone
3-peat offender
RV-7A
"Are you still wasting your time with spam?...
There is a solution!"
Protected by GIANT Company's Spam Inspector
The most powerful anti-spam software available.
http://www.giantcompany.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I have extensive background on component reliability, as during the 70's
when we at Spar Aerospace were designing and building he electronic systems
for the Space Shuttle remote manipulator,
Henry, first of all what I say here is not a reflection on your comments or
prior experience. I just wanted to make that very clear up front.
My first "private" computer to sit on my office desk was an IBM PS2 model
30. The practices "network", yeah right was some kind of T model with an AT
bus. My 30 had a whomping 20 meg hard drive. I would never need another
computer........think again:-)
A client of mine recently was in my GMC and saw the digital speedometer. He
said he would never have that as "those things" go bad. Like any of us have
never driven down the road listening to a speedometer cable whine.
My old Mustang used to jump a link. I carried a half inch wrench to loosen
the distributor, move the plug wires over one and retime
by...........turning the distributor however much would make the pony run
again.
Van made a statement one time on a video that we used to start cars with a
crank, but we wouldn't want to do that again. He was speaking of jigless
construction.
If you haven't had a vac. failure.............you haven't flown long enough.
I know I just made a comparison of apples and oranges but my point is, or
will be, it's about time the aviation world grasp, and use, the technology
that is available today. The old stuff works. However, I am one that
believes the solid state stuff is much more reliable and will prove to be
much more trouble free than anything (almost like saying always:)
mechanical. My own personnal thoughts are if I can replace something
mechanical with something electronic, I am better off.
Backups for me, sure, because I will be in the clouds. Mechanical backups,
not if I can help it.
Just waiting on UPS to get here with my Dynon today.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | How'd you prime inside of control rods? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Any advice out there for priming the inside of control rods? To get good
coverage, there must be a better way than hand pouring primer inside and
rotating the tube.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
Roger Evenson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
>Any advice out there for priming the inside of control rods? To get good
>coverage, there must be a better way than hand pouring primer inside and
>rotating the tube.
>
=====================
Raw/boiled linseed oil has works for decades.inside chromoly tubing.
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/authors/whittier/The%20Welding's%20Done!%20%20Now%20What_.html
Bob
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Put some "zipper" edge protector on the holes.
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Vents
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 8/15/2003 10:49:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
>
> > Aren't we being a little anal?
> >
> > How often you think you will have to replace that hose?
> >
> > It is shielded from the elements and is not in the hot engine
compartment.
> >
> > I have similar hoses in my factory built that have survived several
decades
> > inside the engine compartment and are still o.k.
> >
> > Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> > Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> > cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
> >
>
> My only thought on this is that it is very likely to get a hole where it
> comes in through the wing lightening holes and into the fuse. I did my
best to
> protect it in these areas, but it does lay on the edge of 4 wing rib
lightening
> holes and then again on the hole into the fuse. I'm guessing I'll
eventually
> get a rub through there at some point....
> -MK
>
>
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>>
>> Bill, I can't quite tell you why it was different, But I do know that at
>> 60kts indicated at sea level the plane jumps off, where as at 60kts
>10000ft
>> D/A it struggles and may settle back down for a touch and go.
>>
>
>Having flown at high density altitudes a lot, I think this is because of the
>lack of acceleration at high altitude. Down low you look at the airspeed,
>see a number, and start to rotate. In the meantime you are still
>accelerating strongly and are quite a bit faster when you actually lift off.
>Up high, the acceleration is so much lower that you are trying to lift off
>at a slower speed.
>
>If you do let it fly off in a three point attitude, it should do so at the
>same indicated airspeed in either case.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
Larry's explanation makes a lot of sense to me. There may also be a
small contribution from the prop wash over the wing. The part of the
wing that is bathed in the prop wash will produce more lift than it
otherwise would, due to the slightly higher speed of the air there.
But at 10,000 ft, the engine puts out less power, so the prop wash
isn't going as fast, so it produces less extra lift.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>>
>> Bill, I can't quite tell you why it was different, But I do know that at
>> 60kts indicated at sea level the plane jumps off, where as at 60kts
>10000ft
>> D/A it struggles and may settle back down for a touch and go.
>>
>
>Having flown at high density altitudes a lot, I think this is because of the
>lack of acceleration at high altitude. Down low you look at the airspeed,
>see a number, and start to rotate. In the meantime you are still
>accelerating strongly and are quite a bit faster when you actually lift off.
>Up high, the acceleration is so much lower that you are trying to lift off
>at a slower speed.
>
>If you do let it fly off in a three point attitude, it should do so at the
>same indicated airspeed in either case.
>
>Larry Pardue
>Carlsbad, NM
>
>RV-6 N441LP Flying
Larry's explanation makes a lot of sense to me. There may also be a
small contribution from the prop wash over the wing. The part of the
wing that is bathed in the prop wash will produce more lift than it
otherwise would, due to the slightly higher speed of the air there.
But at 10,000 ft, the engine puts out less power, so the prop wash
isn't going as fast, so it produces less extra lift.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I don't know, pouring primer in there and rotating it around works pretty
good. After all it ain't gotta look pretty in there. What I did was cut
the finger off of a latex glove and tape it to one end then pour in the
primer, tape another finger to the other end and roll it around. Then clamp
it to the table pointing up and down with a cup underneath it to catch the
run-off and leave it for the night. Works great. I also used some rattle
can primer on one of them and basically did the same thing just held the
button down on the spray can long enough to get a good bit of primer in
there.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: How'd you prime inside of control rods?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
>
> Any advice out there for priming the inside of control rods? To get good
> coverage, there must be a better way than hand pouring primer inside and
> rotating the tube.
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Windshear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Full flaps on an airliner do the same thing as they do on an RV. Dont
change your configuration. You'll have your hands full just trying to keep
the thing from stalling without changing other variables in a severe wind
shear.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: RE: Windshear
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Keith,
>
> thank you, after reading you airliner types posts it seems like the thing
to
> do is just go full power and pray since the final approach speed of the RV
> is 70kts or lower. Stall is not much lower than that in terms of how much
> more pull one gives to the loose stick at that low airspeed just to drop
to
> stall speed.
>
> The one thing I'm not sure of is it better to reduce drag some if flaps
are
> fully deployed by bringing them slowly up to 15deg? On the RV anything
> beyond 10-15deg is pure drag which is why it was the first thing I "felt"
> was right to do. My thought on it is that the drag portion of flap
> deployment is robbing lift energy, but I don't know if that's really
valid.
>
> thx
> W
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Howard [mailto:rv6tc@earthlink.net]
> To: 'wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us'
> Subject: Windshear
>
>
> Wheeler,
>
> Just read your post concerning windshear. For background, I was an AF
> instructor pilot and I'm not a 737 F/O at United. We get windshear
> training ad nauseum, mostly due to the accidents that have happened in the
> past. The public stuff on the list is mostly correct. Pat Hatch had the
> best response with one small exception. He said in an RV you might want
to
> go to Vx. Probably a little slower than that. His post stated correctly
> that you rotate to "stick shaker" in a jet. The theory is that you very
> aggressively maximize your AoA to fly out of the shear. To a certain
> degree, you disregard the airspeed, but that could be dangerous if you
> don't have an accurate AoA gage. The Delta L-1011 that crashed in Dallas
> after encountering a nice microburst, had MORE than flying airspeed when
he
> hit the tank. Had he been trained better, they could have survived, but
no
> one knew. So, max power, rotate aggressively to a pitch attitude that is
> higher than normal and be very respectful of the stall. Work the pitch
> attitude to keep the nose up and not gaining airspeed until you are
> climbing. In the 737, the non flying pilot calls out radar altitude, and
> vertical velocity. Notice nowhere are we concerned with speed until we
are
> climbing out. We are strictly trained not to change configuration. If
you
> do have to fly into the terrain, you are in the best attitude possible in
> this recovery position. Remember when you exit the shear, it is a
> mandatory call to the ATC to report it as well as the intensity, usually
> measured by change of airspeed, if you know. One great indicator could be
> your groundspeed on the GPS, compared with what it should be with the
> surface winds. In Denver, it isn't at all unusual for the winds to be
> different directions and velocities all the way down final. I have seen
> then go through 360 degrees on one approach, and this morning's visual,
> they changed through three different cardinal directions, the last change
> from calm to 270/10 at about 100-200 feet. So it is not at all unusual.
>
> Fly safe. Let me know if these ramblings are not coherent, and I'll try
> again.
>
> Keith Hughes
> RV-6 Finish
> B-737
> Denver
>
> PS. Unless you have very sophisticated equipment on board, do not turn.
> You might turn from an area of lessor shear into the teeth of it, making
> for a longer recovery.
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Computer reliability was: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Following on the thread about Dynon and other non spinning gyro systems and
flying in IFR .... my two cents.
My first computer was shared and ran on tubes. Usually, it was being
repaired. I also used the Universities' Control Data Corp machine with a
glass tube delay line memory -- you remember how that worked, eh?
When we talk of electronic hardware we need to distinguish between tubes
and transistors or rather between all solid state and non solid state. A
TV tube is not solid state but the newest stuff is - there is no
tube. Surely the Dynon is all solid state? The reliability difference is
enormous after the first few hours. When you get new electronics run it
for at least 90 hours in the first few days. After those hours the failure
rate is so low most equipment is thrown out running but obsolete. I am not
a major expert on digital hardware, though, so others may have something to
add.
I do consider myself an expert on software with more than 25 years at
it. So, let me tell you my fear of things like Dynon. I worry about the
software. I worry about that odd situation where the program pointer goes
up a blind alley which we call a method or function or more obsolete, a
sub-routine. Up this alley, if things aren't quite right, the method
throws an exception which if all is well is handled with no serious impact
to the user. It is possible however, to have a 'bummer' exception and in
some cases this may cause the system to shut down, reboot, or show a blue
screen. I'd hate to have my attitude indicator reboot in clouds, rain and
turbulence.
A very serious problem here is that no one has ever as of when I left Sun
Micro in '93, figured out a way to **PROVE** software to be correct! We
can test the hell out of it trying to find bugs but we can't prove the
software to be correct. In testing, it can be seen how various errors are
handled by creating the error conditions but how does one test an
unforeseen error? Oh, if only we could prove that there are no unforeseen
errors!!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK flying!
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Computer reliability was: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV3 <rv3@comcast.net>
>When we talk of electronic hardware we need to distinguish between tubes
>and transistors or rather between all solid state and non solid state. A
>TV tube is not solid state but the newest stuff is - there is no
>tube. Surely the Dynon is all solid state? The reliability difference is
>enormous after the first few hours. When you get new electronics run it
>for at least 90 hours in the first few days. After those hours the failure
>rate is so low most equipment is thrown out running but obsolete. I am not
>a major expert on digital hardware, though, so others may have something to
>add.
>
>I do consider myself an expert on software with more than 25 years at
>it. So, let me tell you my fear of things like Dynon. I worry about the
>software. I worry about that odd situation where the program pointer goes
>up a blind alley which we call a method or function or more obsolete, a
>sub-routine. Up this alley, if things aren't quite right, the method
>throws an exception which if all is well is handled with no serious impact
>to the user. It is possible however, to have a 'bummer' exception and in
>some cases this may cause the system to shut down, reboot, or show a blue
>screen. I'd hate to have my attitude indicator reboot in clouds, rain and
>turbulence.
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>
============================================
FWIW....
My 3 year old solid state DVD player just went Tango Uniform.
It had been outputting an odor for several days. However,
I don't feel too bad. The odor is now gone and....
it had a number of software glitches that made
playing MP3's damn near impossible anyway.
Hey....
It's only money, right?
Not like my life depended on it.
P.S.
I could fill many dumpsters with failed solid state stuff.
The failures allowed me to own a fine home, several
airplanes, many new cars and put two kids and a wife
through college - including Masters degrees for all.
Bob - tube, transistor and LSI telecom tech - retired
Do not archive
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <DeanPichon@msn.com>
While there's nothing wrong with hand pouring primer, I anodized the aluminum push-pull
tubes on my -4. On the steel push-pull tubes (bellcrank to aileron),
I welded the fittings. Before welding the second fitting in place, I squirted
a small amount of "tube oil" into the tube to prevent corrosion. If all goes
well, the oil is sealed in and everything else is sealed out. Who knows...
Good luck,
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 150 hrs
Morgantown, WV
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Evenson
Subject: RV-List: How'd you prime inside of control rods?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
Any advice out there for priming the inside of control rods? To get good
coverage, there must be a better way than hand pouring primer inside and
rotating the tube.
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Scroggs" <rscroggs@comcast.net>
Thanks for the responses. I do feel that we as builders should build our
aircraft so they can
be maintained and serviced. There's nothing more frustrating to a mechanic
to try and work
on anything, be it a plane or car, and not be able to work on it. During
the building phase is
a great time to think ahead and determine that.
Thanks for the ideas.
Ross Scroggs, A&P
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Vents
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 8/14/2003 4:53:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> rscroggs@comcast.net writes:
>
> > Anybody know the best way to attach a NACA duct to the skin surface so
the
> > hose could be replaced
> > at some point in the future? The ones I saw may have been prosealed to
the
> > inside surface of the skin
> > but there is no way to replace the hose if that is done. You can't
reach it
> > without removing the wing.
> > Ideas???
> >
>
> Hi Ross,
> I did this exact set-up in my RV-4. I pro-sealed the duct in place and
used
> 4 pull rivets (CS4-4) with a washer as a back up to the rivet on the
plastic
> side of the NACA duct. I am sure it will eventually get a hole and my
plan at
> that time is to make an access panel behind the duct. If you are still in
the
> building phase, I'd just make an access panel now. Thinking back on it, I
> should have made the panel before I painted......
>
> Hope this helps, it really feeds a lot of air to the rear seat.
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4 78 hours
> (In Michigan now, used to live in McDonough, GA)
>
>
Message 38
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Taylor" <rv7@cox.net>
Ross,
I concurr. I am an aircraft electo-environmental specialist on the
KC-135R. Sometimes I wonder what the engineers were thinking. Many things
are very difficult to repair due to accessibility. These aircraft were built
in the early 60's but we are still maintaining them. Almost everything fails
eventually.
-David
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Scroggs" <rscroggs@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Vents
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Scroggs" <rscroggs@comcast.net>
>
> Thanks for the responses. I do feel that we as builders should build our
> aircraft so they can
> be maintained and serviced. There's nothing more frustrating to a
mechanic
> to try and work
> on anything, be it a plane or car, and not be able to work on it. During
> the building phase is
> a great time to think ahead and determine that.
> Thanks for the ideas.
>
> Ross Scroggs, A&P
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <N223RV@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Air Vents
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 8/14/2003 4:53:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> > rscroggs@comcast.net writes:
> >
> > > Anybody know the best way to attach a NACA duct to the skin surface so
> the
> > > hose could be replaced
> > > at some point in the future? The ones I saw may have been prosealed
to
> the
> > > inside surface of the skin
> > > but there is no way to replace the hose if that is done. You can't
> reach it
> > > without removing the wing.
> > > Ideas???
> > >
> >
> > Hi Ross,
> > I did this exact set-up in my RV-4. I pro-sealed the duct in place and
> used
> > 4 pull rivets (CS4-4) with a washer as a back up to the rivet on the
> plastic
> > side of the NACA duct. I am sure it will eventually get a hole and my
> plan at
> > that time is to make an access panel behind the duct. If you are still
in
> the
> > building phase, I'd just make an access panel now. Thinking back on it,
I
> > should have made the panel before I painted......
> >
> > Hope this helps, it really feeds a lot of air to the rear seat.
> > -Mike Kraus
> > N223RV RV-4 78 hours
> > (In Michigan now, used to live in McDonough, GA)
> >
> >
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Prop Mounting/Flywheel... |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Howdy all....another question for the many...
I have a Bart O-360-A1A2 that Im going to hang a FP sensenich prop on very
soon. My question is: when I look at the flywheel from the front (currently
held on by 2 temporary bolts) there are six 1/2 threaded holes for the prop
extension/prop bolts....makes sense so far....but in looking at the 6 holes....4
of them are flush with the outer edge (front face)of the flywheel, one is 3/16
in recessed below the flywheel front face, and the last one is 7/16 in.
recessed. In looking at the prop extension that would attach at this location
there
arn't any apparent spacers (either attached to the spacer or in the bag of
parts) to take up this space. Is this normal??
Thanks...
Kurt in OKC
RV6A, Firewall Forward....
Do Not Archive
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Mounting/Flywheel... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Kurt
.. all you ever wanted to know about prop bushings for Lycoming
engines is here....
http://www.prime-mover.org/Aviation/Bulletins/si1098.html
gil in Tucson
At 10:22 PM 8/15/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
>
>Howdy all....another question for the many...
>
>I have a Bart O-360-A1A2 that Im going to hang a FP sensenich prop on very
>soon. My question is: when I look at the flywheel from the front (currently
>held on by 2 temporary bolts) there are six 1/2 threaded holes for the prop
>extension/prop bolts....makes sense so far....but in looking at the 6
>holes....4
>of them are flush with the outer edge (front face)of the flywheel, one is
>3/16
>in recessed below the flywheel front face, and the last one is 7/16 in.
>recessed. In looking at the prop extension that would attach at this
>location there
>arn't any apparent spacers (either attached to the spacer or in the bag of
>parts) to take up this space. Is this normal??
>
>Thanks...
>
>Kurt in OKC
>RV6A, Firewall Forward....
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
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