Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - E-713 Elevator Bevel?? ()
2. 04:47 AM - Re: E-713 Elevator Bevel?? (Dana Overall)
3. 08:26 AM - Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? (Jack Lockamy)
4. 12:24 PM - Re: Computer reliability was: Dynon Shipped (Kevin Horton)
5. 01:34 PM - Re: Computer reliability was: Dynon Shipped (Kevin Horton)
6. 06:28 PM - Coax Connector Frustration (Tim Bryan)
7. 08:32 PM - Bending the RV8 Canopy Frame rear bow (Vincent Himsl)
8. 08:35 PM - Re: Coax Connector Frustration (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
9. 08:48 PM - Re: Coax Connector Frustration (Vanremog@aol.com)
10. 08:55 PM - cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | E-713 Elevator Bevel?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I am finishing the right elevator, and I currently ran into a question. How do
I "bevel" the E-713? It obviously causes somewhat of a bulge in that area due
to the multiple layers of metal, and the plans say to bevel. Maybe I'm too
tired, but how is that done to a piece of skin? Saw the question in the archives,
but never found the answer.
Thanks,
Scott
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: E-713 Elevator Bevel?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Scott, all I did was overlap the two pieces and mark the area to be beveled
with a sharpie then start with some files. I layed the piece flat on the
edge of my bench and used the vixen, flipped the vixen over, went to a finer
file then on to scotch pads. I buffed all the marks out and hit it with
some primer and riveted away. It's not a big deal, just go at it.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: E-713 Elevator Bevel??
>Date: Sat, 16 Aug 2003 03:14:23 -0400 (EDT)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
>All,
>
>I am finishing the right elevator, and I currently ran into a question.
>How do I "bevel" the E-713? It obviously causes somewhat of a bulge in
>that area due to the multiple layers of metal, and the plans say to bevel.
>Maybe I'm too tired, but how is that done to a piece of skin? Saw the
>question in the archives, but never found the answer.
>
>Thanks,
>Scott
>
>
>Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
>The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: How'd you prime inside of control rods? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Lockamy" <jacklockamy@att.net>
Roger,
I had the same thoughts as I was building my control rods which called for primer
being poured inside.... "gotta be a better way".
Then I remembered I had a spray can of ACF-50 Anti-Corrosion Inhibitor. Just make
sure and prime/paint the outside of the control rod PRIOR to spraying ACF-50
inside the tube.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7AQB N174JL reserved
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Computer reliability was: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
><--bunch of good stuff snipped-->
>
>So, let me tell you my fear of things like Dynon. I worry about the
>software. I worry about that odd situation where the program pointer goes
>up a blind alley which we call a method or function or more obsolete, a
>sub-routine. Up this alley, if things aren't quite right, the method
>throws an exception which if all is well is handled with no serious impact
>to the user. It is possible however, to have a 'bummer' exception and in
>some cases this may cause the system to shut down, reboot, or show a blue
>screen. I'd hate to have my attitude indicator reboot in clouds, rain and
>turbulence.
A blue screen is at least a much clearer indication of a problem than
the small flags that some conventional attitude indicators have.
I'll take a blue screen any day over a software error that causes it
to display the wrong attitude. But I've also heard of vacuum powered
attitude indicators that will wander in attitude if the vacuum pump
is starting to go, and there isn't enough vacuum.
>A very serious problem here is that no one has ever as of when I left Sun
>Micro in '93, figured out a way to **PROVE** software to be correct! We
>can test the hell out of it trying to find bugs but we can't prove the
>software to be correct. In testing, it can be seen how various errors are
>handled by creating the error conditions but how does one test an
>unforeseen error? Oh, if only we could prove that there are no unforeseen
>errors!!
It's pretty much impossible to design anything that doesn't have
potential failures, either hardware failures, or software failures.
But, we need to keep in mind that the stuff these EFIS displays are
replacing isn't perfect either. Let's face it, vacuum system
failures and gyro failures are all too common. Only time will tell
how well the hardware and software reliability of the new cheap EFIS
systems compares. I'll be satisfied if the new stuff has better
system reliability (i.e. considering both hardware and software
failures) than conventional vacuum systems and gyros.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Computer reliability was: Dynon Shipped |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
><--bunch of good stuff snipped-->
>
>So, let me tell you my fear of things like Dynon. I worry about the
>software. I worry about that odd situation where the program pointer goes
>up a blind alley which we call a method or function or more obsolete, a
>sub-routine. Up this alley, if things aren't quite right, the method
>throws an exception which if all is well is handled with no serious impact
>to the user. It is possible however, to have a 'bummer' exception and in
>some cases this may cause the system to shut down, reboot, or show a blue
>screen. I'd hate to have my attitude indicator reboot in clouds, rain and
>turbulence.
A blue screen is at least a much clearer indication of a problem than
the small flags that some conventional attitude indicators have.
I'll take a blue screen any day over a software error that causes it
to display the wrong attitude. But I've also heard of vacuum powered
attitude indicators that will wander in attitude if the vacuum pump
is starting to go, and there isn't enough vacuum.
>A very serious problem here is that no one has ever as of when I left Sun
>Micro in '93, figured out a way to **PROVE** software to be correct! We
>can test the hell out of it trying to find bugs but we can't prove the
>software to be correct. In testing, it can be seen how various errors are
>handled by creating the error conditions but how does one test an
>unforeseen error? Oh, if only we could prove that there are no unforeseen
>errors!!
It's pretty much impossible to design anything that doesn't have
potential failures, either hardware failures, or software failures.
But, we need to keep in mind that the stuff these EFIS displays are
replacing isn't perfect either. Let's face it, vacuum system
failures and gyro failures are all too common. Only time will tell
how well the hardware and software reliability of the new cheap EFIS
systems compares. I'll be satisfied if the new stuff has better
system reliability (i.e. considering both hardware and software
failures) than conventional vacuum systems and gyros.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 6
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| Subject: | Coax Connector Frustration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Hello Listers,
I began putting my crimp on coax connectors on and for the first 2 or 3 it
went fine. Then I couldn't any longer crimp the tiny little pin end without
it breaking.
I ran out of connectors so I ordered new ones from Van's only to find out
the center pin is not big enough to fit over the stranded center conductor
of the RG-58A/U coax. I ordered again this time from Chief aircraft where
the originals came from. Once again they BARELY fit into the center but
will fit. My 100. crimp tool I bought is causing the center pin crimp to
break when I crimp it. I just ruined 3 more connectors at $ 5.95 each.
What is the secret to this? Can't afford to keep buying connectors so 1 out
of 3 or 4 will work.
My tool is the AMP Pro Crimper II with the special RG-58/RG-59 jaws in it
and the male crimps I am using are also Amp. Both from Chief Aircraft.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Message 7
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| Subject: | Bending the RV8 Canopy Frame rear bow |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Hello,
I am finally mounting the canopy frame to my RV8. The plans say that the
distance between the rear canopy frame bow and the slider track should be
5/8".
Mine now measures 2". Is this way to out of line to correct by 'muscle
power'?
Also, does anyone have a procedure for doing this as I don't really have an
idea as to where and how to apply pressure without messing up the rest of
the canopy frame?.
I have read in the archives horror stories (to me) of people cutting and
rewelding. As mine is powder coated already, I am loath to contemplate such
drastic action.
Thanks in advance
VInce Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I thought the center pin soldered onto the center conductor?
Maybe yours are different. I use RG-58U/ with solid center conductor.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/16/2003 6:29:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
tim@bryantechnology.com writes:
> I ran out of connectors so I ordered new ones from Van's only to find out
> the center pin is not big enough to fit over the stranded center conductor
> of the RG-58A/U coax. I ordered again this time from Chief aircraft where
> the originals came from. Once again they BARELY fit into the center but
> will fit. My 100. crimp tool I bought is causing the center pin crimp to
> break when I crimp it. I just ruined 3 more connectors at $ 5.95 each.
> What is the secret to this? Can't afford to keep buying connectors so 1 out
> of 3 or 4 will work.
>
> My tool is the AMP Pro Crimper II with the special RG-58/RG-59 jaws in it
> and the male crimps I am using are also Amp. Both from Chief Aircraft.
>
I prefer the Pan Pacific brand BNCs that I buy at Fry's Electronics, because
they have a more robust outer sleeve vs some of the other brands.
I use the military M22520/2-01 (Daniels AFM8) eight indent crimping tool to
do the center pin and a Paladin tool or the old standby M22520/5-01 (Daniels
HX4) with a hex die set to do the hex outer sleeve.
I suppose I could loan them out if you promised to return them and pay
shipping both ways. Where are you located?
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
Message 10
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| Subject: | cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm working on sanding the aft edge of my top cowling, and I've got it about
as good as I can get it. Zero gap all along the joint (no hinges
visible...woohoo). But before I drill this sucker to the hinge, I figure I
should ask -- should I leave a tiiiiiny gap to account for the thickness of
primer and paint, or should I let it butt up against the fwd edge of the top
skin?
I just want to avoid having paint actually interfere and/or chip off.
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
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