Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:36 AM - Re: Bending the RV8 Canopy Frame rear bow (Larry Bowen)
2. 09:54 AM - Re: Coax Connector Frustration (Tim Bryan)
3. 09:56 AM - Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? (Tim Bryan)
4. 09:59 AM - Re: Re: Coax Connector Frustration (Tim Bryan)
5. 10:05 AM - Power input to pins (Dana Overall)
6. 10:22 AM - Re: Coax Connector Frustration (Vanremog@aol.com)
7. 10:42 AM - Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? (Kyle Boatright)
8. 10:49 AM - Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? (Bruce Gray)
9. 10:59 AM - Re: Power input to pins (Cy Galley)
10. 11:23 AM - Parachute for sale... (Ken Balch)
11. 11:29 AM - Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
12. 12:55 PM - Voltage regulator connector (Gil Alexander)
13. 05:00 PM - Oil cooler Port Interference (Duane Bentley)
14. 05:19 PM - First Eng Start (John Mcmahon)
15. 06:14 PM - Re: Oil cooler Port Interference (Dan Checkoway)
16. 06:48 PM - vacuum system routing (Al Grajek)
17. 06:57 PM - Re: Oil cooler Port Interference (Vanremog@aol.com)
18. 07:09 PM - RV6 slider windscreen (Dave Ford)
19. 07:41 PM - Re: RV6 slider windscreen (Vanremog@aol.com)
20. 07:56 PM - BMA comments Re: Dynon (Donald Mei)
21. 08:18 PM - Re: RV6 slider windscreen (Stein Bruch)
22. 08:24 PM - N85MD another RV leaves the nest (MARK H DELANO)
23. 08:33 PM - Re: Coax Connector Frustration (Tim Bryan)
24. 09:26 PM - FAB-360 AP (filtered airbox for AFP) (Dan Checkoway)
25. 09:46 PM - Re-Canadian Imports (bruno)
26. 10:13 PM - Odyssey battery mounting (Gil Alexander)
27. 10:16 PM - Re: Oil cooler Port Interference (Duane Bentley)
28. 10:26 PM - FAB-360 AP (filtered airbox for AFP) (Duane Bentley)
29. 10:44 PM - Re: Re: Coax Connector Frustration (Ken Stribling)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Bending the RV8 Canopy Frame rear bow |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I flipped my frame upside-down, set it on the ground on some carpet, and
leaned on the tail end of it. Check for proper fit on the fuse, and
repeat. It was done it 2 minutes.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
>
> Hello,
> I am finally mounting the canopy frame to my RV8. The plans
> say that the distance between the rear canopy frame bow and
> the slider track should be 5/8".
>
> Mine now measures 2". Is this way to out of line to correct
> by 'muscle power'?
>
> Also, does anyone have a procedure for doing this as I don't
> really have an idea as to where and how to apply pressure
> without messing up the rest of the canopy frame?.
>
> I have read in the archives horror stories (to me) of people
> cutting and rewelding. As mine is powder coated already, I am
> loath to contemplate such drastic action.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> VInce Himsl
> RV8 - SB Finish
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Do you have a way to measure the crimped diameter of the small die on the
crimper? I am beginning to wonder if my tool is defective. Would it make
sense if my coax center conductor (it is stranded and amost doesn't fit) was
soooo tight in the pin that crimping could produce a defect?=0D
=0D
I would be happy to pay shipping if it comes to that. Seems like I spent
enough money to have an appropriate tool. I live in Redmond, Oregon. Where
are you?=0D
Tim =0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: rv-list@matronics.com=0D
Subject: Re: RV-List: Coax Connector Frustration=0D
=0D
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com=0D
=0D
In a message dated 8/16/2003 6:29:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, =0D
tim@bryantechnology.com writes:=0D
=0D
> I ran out of connectors so I ordered new ones from Van's only to find out=0D
> the center pin is not big enough to fit over the stranded center conductor=0D
> of the RG-58A/U coax. I ordered again this time from Chief aircraft where=0D
> the originals came from. Once again they BARELY fit into the center but=0D
> will fit. My 100. crimp tool I bought is causing the center pin crimp to=0D
> break when I crimp it. I just ruined 3 more connectors at $ 5.95 each. =0D
> What is the secret to this? Can't afford to keep buying connectors so 1
out=0D
> of 3 or 4 will work.=0D
> =0D
> My tool is the AMP Pro Crimper II with the special RG-58/RG-59 jaws in it=0D
> and the male crimps I am using are also Amp. Both from Chief Aircraft.=0D
> =0D
=0D
I prefer the Pan Pacific brand BNCs that I buy at Fry's Electronics, because
=0D
they have a more robust outer sleeve vs some of the other brands.=0D
=0D
I use the military M22520/2-01 (Daniels AFM8) eight indent crimping tool to =0D
do the center pin and a Paladin tool or the old standby M22520/5-01 (Daniels
=0D
HX4) with a hex die set to do the hex outer sleeve.=0D
=0D
I suppose I could loan them out if you promised to return them and pay =0D
shipping both ways. Where are you located?=0D
=0D
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Dan,=0D
=0D
I had a discussion with my painter about this not too long ago. I was told
to leave room for the paint. Doesn't have to be much but maybe about 1/8th.
You or your painter might have a different idea.=0D
Tim Bryan=0D
RV-6 =0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: rv-list@matronics.com=0D
Subject: RV-List: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint?=0D
=0D
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>=0D
=0D
I'm working on sanding the aft edge of my top cowling, and I've got it about=0D
as good as I can get it. Zero gap all along the joint (no hinges=0D
visible...woohoo). But before I drill this sucker to the hinge, I figure I=0D
should ask -- should I leave a tiiiiiny gap to account for the thickness of=0D
primer and paint, or should I let it butt up against the fwd edge of the top=0D
skin?=0D
=0D
I just want to avoid having paint actually interfere and/or chip off.=0D
=0D
Thanks in advance,=0D
)_( Dan=0D
RV-7 N714D=0D
http://www.rvproject.com=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Hi Bob,
I understood mine to be crimp on but solder might work.
I think I will try it today and see what the results are. Whats one more
connector parts without a center pin anyway. Anybody want to buy some?
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Coax Connector Frustration
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I thought the center pin soldered onto the center conductor?
Maybe yours are different. I use RG-58U/ with solid center conductor.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
.
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | Power input to pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
In looking at the pinout chart for my 430 on aeroelectric.com it shows power
going to pins 11 & 12 on P1002, pins 8 & 9 on P1001 and pin 44 on P1006.
Just wondering why power would be going to two pins on two of the
connections. No big deal, just wondering. Anybody got a thought?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/17/2003 9:55:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
tim@bryantechnology.com writes:
> Do you have a way to measure the crimped diameter of the small die on the
> crimper? I am beginning to wonder if my tool is defective. Would it make
> sense if my coax center conductor (it is stranded and almost doesn't fit)
> was
> soooo tight in the pin that crimping could produce a defect?=0D
> =0D
> I would be happy to pay shipping if it comes to that. Seems like I spent
> enough money to have an appropriate tool. I live in Redmond, Oregon. Where
> are you?
Tim-
We're in The San Francisco Bay area. The M22520/2-01 crimping tool is fully
adjustable.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
1/8" is Waaaay too much. About the width of a hacksaw blade is sufficient.
Somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16 would be fine.
I think you'll find similar comments in the archives.
Do not archive.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
> Dan,=0D
> =0D
> I had a discussion with my painter about this not too long ago. I was
told
> to leave room for the paint. Doesn't have to be much but maybe about
1/8th.
> You or your painter might have a different idea.=0D
> Tim Bryan=0D
> RV-6 =0D
> =0D
> -------Original Message-------=0D
> =0D
> From: rv-list@matronics.com=0D
> Date: Saturday, August 16, 2003 09:15:28 PM=0D
> To: rv-list@matronics.com=0D
> Subject: RV-List: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint?=0D
> =0D
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>=0D
> =0D
> I'm working on sanding the aft edge of my top cowling, and I've got it
about=0D
> as good as I can get it. Zero gap all along the joint (no hinges=0D
> visible...woohoo). But before I drill this sucker to the hinge, I figure
I=0D
> should ask -- should I leave a tiiiiiny gap to account for the thickness
of=0D
> primer and paint, or should I let it butt up against the fwd edge of the
top=0D
> skin?=0D
> =0D
> I just want to avoid having paint actually interfere and/or chip off.=0D
> =0D
> Thanks in advance,=0D
> )_( Dan=0D
> RV-7 N714D=0D
> http://www.rvproject.com=0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =2E
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
I used 0.040.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: Re: RV-List: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
1/8" is Waaaay too much. About the width of a hacksaw blade is
sufficient.
Somewhere between 1/32 and 1/16 would be fine.
I think you'll find similar comments in the archives.
Do not archive.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
> Dan,=0D
> =0D
> I had a discussion with my painter about this not too long ago. I was
told
> to leave room for the paint. Doesn't have to be much but maybe about
1/8th.
> You or your painter might have a different idea.=0D
> Tim Bryan=0D
> RV-6 =0D
> =0D
> -------Original Message-------=0D
> =0D
> From: rv-list@matronics.com=0D
> Date: Saturday, August 16, 2003 09:15:28 PM=0D
> To: rv-list@matronics.com=0D
> Subject: RV-List: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint?=0D
> =0D
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>=0D
> =0D
> I'm working on sanding the aft edge of my top cowling, and I've got it
about=0D
> as good as I can get it. Zero gap all along the joint (no hinges=0D
> visible...woohoo). But before I drill this sucker to the hinge, I
figure
I=0D
> should ask -- should I leave a tiiiiiny gap to account for the
thickness
of=0D
> primer and paint, or should I let it butt up against the fwd edge of
the
top=0D
> skin?=0D
> =0D
> I just want to avoid having paint actually interfere and/or chip
off.=0D
> =0D
> Thanks in advance,=0D
> )_( Dan=0D
> RV-7 N714D=0D
> http://www.rvproject.com=0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =0D
> =2E
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Power input to pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
One pin doesn't carry enough amps so they split and use 2 in parallel.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
1-518-731-6800
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Power input to pins
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
> In looking at the pinout chart for my 430 on aeroelectric.com it shows
power
> going to pins 11 & 12 on P1002, pins 8 & 9 on P1001 and pin 44 on P1006.
> Just wondering why power would be going to two pins on two of the
> connections. No big deal, just wondering. Anybody got a thought?
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Parachute for sale... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
Strong Parachute, Model 304, seat pack. Navy blue with gray.
Ordered brand new at SnF '02. Used for the first few hours of flight
testing my RV-8. In perfect condition. Just repack and fly!
$1200 takes it & I'll ship within the lower 48.
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: cowling/skin joint...leave room for paint?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm working on sanding the aft edge of my top cowling, and I've got it
about
> as good as I can get it. Zero gap all along the joint (no hinges
> visible...woohoo). But before I drill this sucker to the hinge, I figure
I
> should ask -- should I leave a tiiiiiny gap to account for the thickness
of
> primer and paint, or should I let it butt up against the fwd edge of the
top
> skin?
There is another reason you might want to increase the clearance a bit; it
eases the hinge pin installation considerably. I agree that 1/8" is not
necessary but 1/16" will be surprisingly tight when painted.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 12
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| Subject: | Voltage regulator connector |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Hi guys,
what have the rest of you done with the connector on Vans
Adjustable Voltage Regulator? It's a fairly bulky 3 pin automotive flat
moulded connector. (Vans ES M5-150A ADJ VOLTAGE REGULATOR )
I could:
1. cut it off, and just splice in aircraft wire
or
2. retain the connector to make the Voltage Regulator easy to change.
Option 2 would be good if it ever needed replacing, but I don't know the
reliability of this unit. It is solid state, but does operate under the
cowling in a high temp. environment (mine is on the firewall with a RV-7/9
battery location).
Has anyone had to replace these unit? Any other comments on their
reliability?
...thanks for any info .. gil in Tucson
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Oil cooler Port Interference |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
I've checked the archives and it appears other builders have had the
same problem I'm describing below. But the archives aren't clear on how
to address it.
The recommended port from the engine to the oil cooler is the one
between the two mags. So I removed the oil filter, installed the
straight #8 nipple, attached the hose from it to the oil cooler, and
tried to reinstall the oil filter. It won't fit! The lip of the filter
(new as received with the new 0-360 A1A engine) interferes with the hose
fitting.
I have a straight "Earl's" fitting on the end of the hose. Is it that
much larger diameter than all others?
I took the straight nipple off the engine and started threading in a
nipple with a 45 degree bend. It appears that the only way it will work
is it I point it down and to the left side, but then the hose runs into
the C/S prop governor bracket. I hate to remove and modify it also.
Surely some of the rest of your RV6 guys who are flying must have worked
around this before.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Duane Bentley
West Chester, OH
RV6 Finishing.
Message 14
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
Well after 10 years ,now have first Eng start Weeeeeeee..
It's a bart Eng ..0/360 A1A C/S LSE right side VM-1000
This old man be happy!!
John McMahon (RV-6 )
Gallatin,Tn
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler Port Interference |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I haven't installed my oil cooler hoses on yet, but I did notice that
there's most likely going to be an interference issue with Van's FWF kit
hoses and the new-style Jihostroj governor & prop cable bracket. This is
for an IO-360-A1B6, but I presume it's similar if not the same on all Lycs
with aft governors.
From what I've gathered, the old McCauley governor has its cable bracket
attached to the aft face of the governor itself. The MT/Jihostroj goveror
cable bracket attaches to the fwd flange.
It may be possible to squeeze the hose by, but I doubt it. I assume I'll be
replacing that hose and routing it first to the right and then up around to
the oil cooler.
Duane, keep us posted, if you don't mind, as you solve this problem
(assuming you're talking about the same issue). I appreciate any tips you
come up with.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler Port Interference
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
>
> I've checked the archives and it appears other builders have had the
> same problem I'm describing below. But the archives aren't clear on how
> to address it.
>
>
> The recommended port from the engine to the oil cooler is the one
> between the two mags. So I removed the oil filter, installed the
> straight #8 nipple, attached the hose from it to the oil cooler, and
> tried to reinstall the oil filter. It won't fit! The lip of the filter
> (new as received with the new 0-360 A1A engine) interferes with the hose
> fitting.
>
>
> I have a straight "Earl's" fitting on the end of the hose. Is it that
> much larger diameter than all others?
>
>
> I took the straight nipple off the engine and started threading in a
> nipple with a 45 degree bend. It appears that the only way it will work
> is it I point it down and to the left side, but then the hose runs into
> the C/S prop governor bracket. I hate to remove and modify it also.
>
>
> Surely some of the rest of your RV6 guys who are flying must have worked
> around this before.
>
>
> Any suggestions?
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Duane Bentley
>
> West Chester, OH
>
>
> RV6 Finishing.
>
>
Message 16
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|
"VansAirForce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>,
"RV8ListVANS" <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | vacuum system routing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Al Grajek" <algrajek@msn.com>
Does anybody have some pictures or explanation on how best to route the vacuum
lines from the firewall aft to the back of the panel on an RV8.Through the baggage
area or under it or what?
Thanks
Al Grajek
RV8
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler Port Interference |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/17/2003 5:01:39 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dbentley@fuse.net writes:
> I've checked the archives and it appears other builders have had the
> same problem I'm describing below. But the archives aren't clear on how
> to address it.
>
>
> The recommended port from the engine to the oil cooler is the one
> between the two mags. So I removed the oil filter, installed the
> straight #8 nipple, attached the hose from it to the oil cooler, and
> tried to reinstall the oil filter. It won't fit! The lip of the filter
> (new as received with the new 0-360 A1A engine) interferes with the hose
> fitting.
>
>
> I have a straight "Earl's" fitting on the end of the hose. Is it that
> much larger diameter than all others?
>
>
> I took the straight nipple off the engine and started threading in a
> nipple with a 45 degree bend. It appears that the only way it will work
> is it I point it down and to the left side, but then the hose runs into
> the C/S prop governor bracket. I hate to remove and modify it also.
>
>
> Surely some of the rest of your RV6 guys who are flying must have worked
> around this before.
I have the straight stainless fitting on the engine and a 45 deg fitting on
the hose. Works great.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)
Message 18
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| Subject: | RV6 slider windscreen |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
I am ready to glass in the windscreen on my slider but would like to secure the
front of the windscreen to the forward skin somehow. Is the best method to rivet
a small piece of aluminum with a platenut to the forward skin then drill
and screw the plex to the secured platenut? Was looking for a method that would
not be too visible from the inside. Am planning to remove fairing for sanding
and painting plexiglass under fairing prior to epoxying fairing in place.
Any suggestions appreciated.
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 slider windscreen |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 8/17/2003 7:10:18 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
dford@michweb.net writes:
> I am ready to glass in the windscreen on my slider but would like to secure
> the front of the windscreen to the forward skin somehow. Is the best method
> to rivet a small piece of aluminum with a platenut to the forward skin then
> drill and screw the plex to the secured platenut? Was looking for a method
> that would not be too visible from the inside. Am planning to remove fairing
> for sanding and painting Plexiglas under fairing prior to epoxying fairing in
> place. Any suggestions appreciated.
I recommend a good gap (1/8"-3/16") between the boot cowl and the acrylic
windscreen to allow for thermal expansion. Then I used the dreaded Proseal to
form a nice fillet. I don't recommend drilling any more holes than you
absolutely need to in Plexiglas.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 645hrs)
Message 20
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| Subject: | BMA comments re: Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
1) The statement by a Blue Mountain representative that Dynon can give
false readings durring wind shear is one of the most rediculous things I 've
ever heard.
2) Bad Bad sales tactic to slam your competition. You should instead
stress your product. Indicitive of a generally COCKY attitude taken by Blue
Mountain. Like they know something others don't. Humility is the better
attitude when going places that others have not. (i.e. leading the way with
reasonably priced efis) BMA has an excellent,
maybe superior, product, but they don't seem to approach things with the
somber methodology you would want someone who builds the device you will use
to keep yourself rightside up, should have.
Early BM adopters spoke of situations where there was problems and the
factory didn't admit there were problems.
I much prefer Dynon's (and Grand Rapids - based on customer feedback from
their engine monitors) openness to admit their mistakes and do everything
necessary to make things right.
3) Of course the BMA unit is superior to the Dynon, it costs 2.5 times as
much. +600/yr for code updates, which Dynon makes available at no charge.
Different market entirely.
Don Mei
p.s. having been in the technology sales game for 10+ years, BMA's tactics
are easy to spot. We used to call it F.U.D. for Fear Uncertainty, and
Doubt. "spreading fud about your competitors" Really stupid and useless,
espescially when you consider that BMA has an absolutely brilliant product
line. Maybe that is why Malcolm Thomson became involved. He saw the
brilliant product, with the problems the company was having actually moving
from R&D to production, and saw an opportunity.
Message 21
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| Subject: | RV6 slider windscreen |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
The newer prints call for small "clips" to be pop riveted to the skin. If
done correctly you can't see them at all from the inside. I think I used 4
or 5 evenly spaced.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Ford
Subject: RV-List: RV6 slider windscreen
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
I am ready to glass in the windscreen on my slider but would like to secure
the front of the windscreen to the forward skin somehow. Is the best method
to rivet a small piece of aluminum with a platenut to the forward skin then
drill and screw the plex to the secured platenut? Was looking for a method
that would not be too visible from the inside. Am planning to remove
fairing for sanding and painting plexiglass under fairing prior to epoxying
fairing in place. Any suggestions appreciated.
Dave Ford
RV6 finishing
Message 22
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| Subject: | N85MD another RV leaves the nest |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MARK H DELANO" <delano60@email.msn.com>
Well it has happened again RV6A N85MD created another RV grin today. The first
flight occured at 1530 hr from Centennial airport just south of Denver. The aircraft
departed runway 10 circled the airport for .3hr and landed on runway 35R.
The flight went off with out a hitch. After removing the cowel and a close
inspection a second flight was completed with Keith Hughes at the controlls.
The RV6A has an 0-320E2D with a Sterba wood prop.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Well as an update, I went out today and put all the connectors on. I did
solder the center conductor pins which was a bit of a trick getting solder
in. I think they are good and for now will wait until I test the panel in a
couple of days. At that point I should be able to verify antenna power and
reflection. Thanks for all who helped me with this delima. I still don't
know the answers but needed to get the job done.=0D
=0D
Tim=0D
Do Not Archive =0D
=0D
-------Original Message-------=0D
=0D
From: rv-list@matronics.com=0D
Subject: Re: RV-List: Coax Connector Frustration=0D
=0D
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com=0D
=0D
In a message dated 8/17/2003 9:55:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time, =0D
tim@bryantechnology.com writes:=0D
=0D
> Do you have a way to measure the crimped diameter of the small die on the=0D
> crimper? I am beginning to wonder if my tool is defective. Would it make=0D
> sense if my coax center conductor (it is stranded and almost doesn't fit) =0D
> was=0D
> soooo tight in the pin that crimping could produce a defect?0D=0D
> 0D=0D
> I would be happy to pay shipping if it comes to that. Seems like I spent=0D
> enough money to have an appropriate tool. I live in Redmond, Oregon. Where=0D
> are you?=0D
=0D
Tim-=0D
=0D
We're in The San Francisco Bay area. The M22520/2-01 crimping tool is fully =0D
adjustable.=0D
=0D
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 642hrs)=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=0D
=2E
Message 24
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| Subject: | FAB-360 AP (filtered airbox for AFP) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Does anybody out there have the "FAB-360 AP," the filtered airbox for
Airflow Performance?
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=b4bd06b
I'm trying to adapt my "FAB-HORIZ INDUCTION" (IO-360-A1B6 w/horizontal)
airbox for the AFP injection, and I wanted to see how Van's did it on the
vertical setup before I made any design decisions.
Basically if possible, I'd like to see examples of how people have secured
their airbox to the inlet of the AFP (no flange).
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re-Canadian Imports |
--> RV-List message posted by: bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Hello Neil
----
Time: 11:04:01 AM PST US
From: terence.gannon@telus.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canadian Inports
--> RV-List message posted by: terence.gannon@telus.net
Hi, Neal...
Shipments from the US to Canada are duty free (thank you, NAFTA) for
products
manufactured in the US, and for which all of Van's stuff seems to qualify --
at least it has for me to this point. There is no provincial sales tax in
Alberta. The only item that will be payable will be GST (the equivalent of
your VAT) and that's only 7%.
-----------
Further to what Terry mentioned regarding (NAFTA, North American Free Trade
Agreement),the Canadian Custom Classification numbers required to be Duty
free is the following:
Custom # 8803.30.00.00
Class # Casual goods (Which include aviation parts)
Ask Vans to write it on your shipping coupon or if you clear customs for
your items yourself,just mentioned it to the custom officer.That will save
him a bit of work and hopefully put him in a good mood.It worked for me.
Cheers
Bruno Dionne
C-GDBH RV-4
Message 26
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| Subject: | Odyssey battery mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Guys ... is this new? Found it looking for Odyssey battery terminal sizes
(It's actually 6 mm, which is close enough to 1/4 inch for electrical
terminal work)
It looks like an aluminum alternative to Vans Odyssey battery steel
box kit, and it's even FAA approved!!
Since it mounts in a similar manner to Vans battery box kit, it
almost looks like a direct replacement... probable even lighter than Vans
steel box, and cutting those 2 inch lightening holes were a b***ch, costing
me a fly cutter!!
No work would be needed on the box... Could it be they designed
it for RVs????
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/pc680hd.htm
...gil in Tucson
... almost completed hanging and wiring stuff
on the firewall
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler Port Interference |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
Just a further clarification.
I had one photo sent to me from a builder showing the installation of a
45 degree fitting oil out-fitting on the accessory case, pointing
towards the 7 o'clock location, aft looking forward. He is correct from
my perspective, and I really appreciate the fast response. This appears
to be the only orientation that allows any exit of the line to clear the
attachments (mags etc.) on the back of the accessory case. However,
whether the 45 degree line is on the fitting at the engine or (the other
suggestion) on the end of the tube (which the attaches to a straight
fitting), the real problem in that area is getting by the prop governor
bracket. I have the new Jihostroj governor installed. It has a
different flange location than that of the McCauley governor, and
requires a different governor bracket. I had a RV8 pilot make me a
close approximation to the bracket he is using with the same governor,
but my bracket doesn't turn aft soon enough, and blocks a part of the
very limited "airspace" needed to run the oil line out towards the left
side. Apparently he made his fit, or else he has a different vintage
engine configuration.
I ordered Van's bracket for this governor tonight, and will see how it
fits rather than start to chop up and re weld my bracket. It will take
a good week to 10 days for it to get here, and then I'll have to remove
the bracket and see what I can fit in.
I just hate going backwards when I'm so close to the end.
Thanks
Duane
RV6 Finishing
Message 28
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| Subject: | FAB-360 AP (filtered airbox for AFP) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
Dan,
AFP sends an oval plate the same size as the top plate cover that came
in the package from Vans. AFP's looks the same except it is "gold"
coated. The other difference is that it has four bolt holes that secure
it to a split "donut" also from AFP. The top plate fits up over the
throat of the air inlet, the donut bolts onto the plate, and then the
donut is squeezed down around the throat of the inlet, with an allen
head screw. The top plate ends up being bolted to the top cover of the
FAB, per Van's instructions.
Duane
RV6 Finishing
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Coax Connector Frustration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Stribling" <ken@soundsuckers.com>
Hi Tim
I just went over to the radio shop in bend and had them make up the cables
for me to length and the worked perfect. cost about 40-60 bucks with the new
style cable.
Cant remember the exact cost.
Stopped by Friday but nobody home, Did look through window at plane, allot
of work between this September and the airport.
Ken S.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Coax Connector Frustration
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
> Hi Bob,
>
> I understood mine to be crimp on but solder might work.
> I think I will try it today and see what the results are. Whats one more
> connector parts without a center pin anyway. Anybody want to buy some?
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Saturday, August 16, 2003 09:01:50 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Coax Connector Frustration
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> I thought the center pin soldered onto the center conductor?
> Maybe yours are different. I use RG-58U/ with solid center conductor.
>
>
> Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
> Charleston, Arkansas
> "Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
>
>
> .
>
>
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