Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:07 AM - Re: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing (Dana Overall)
2. 08:57 AM - RV-6A projects in Quantico, VA area (Ralph E. Capen)
3. 10:04 AM - Re: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing (Karie Daniel)
4. 10:50 AM - RV6A project for sale (tom crawford)
5. 12:15 PM - Re: XP360 and Van's baffle kit (Jim Jewell)
6. 12:37 PM - Re: XP360 and Van's baffle kit (Michael Stephan)
7. 03:14 PM - Wing root fairing nutplates in tank (Tim Bryan)
8. 03:55 PM - Re: RV-6A projects in Quantico, VA area (Smcm75@aol.com)
9. 04:20 PM - homecoming (RVer273sb@aol.com)
10. 06:58 PM - Re: Dynon IFR (Doug Rozendaal)
11. 07:05 PM - RV-8 quick build kit for sale (Mark Wiederholt)
12. 07:31 PM - Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
13. 10:12 PM - Re: Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates (Tim Bryan)
14. 10:31 PM - edge rolling leading edge of elevator (Will & Lynda Allen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Karie, a litte more on your question as a followup. As I recall, you are
building a QB so you might not be aware of a couple things.
The brackets the bolt goes through to hold the bell crank are bolted through
the spar web into nutplates on the forward side of the tiedown. The length
of the bolt and the length of the aft facing spar flange prohibit you from
inserting the bolt without removing the top bell crank bracket. I would
encourage you to ream and set the length of the bushing to your satisfaction
using the bracket spacing as a guide, making sure the length protrudes out
each side of the bell crank assembly, so you don't have to keep bolting and
unbolting those top two bolts. I used some loctite as a little reassurance
in rebolting through those two nutplates.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments, Hangar flying my Dynon
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV-6A projects in Quantico, VA area |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow builders - and fliers,
I'll be in the Quantico area for the next week working on a project and would like
to see some other projects underway.
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6A - wiring inst pnl in Richardson TX - but not this week
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Thanks Dana,
I did find the bushings, now I just have to figure out what size to ream the
hole out. I'm also wondering, since the bell crank rotates around the
bushing and the bolt if there shouldn't be some sort of lubricant inside the
bushing and on the outside wall of the bushing to lower the wear, otherwise
it seems the brass could easily wear?
BTW.... I'm now finding that I have bags that are labeled "699" when in fact
a bag "699" doesn't exist in the inventory list, a bag labeled "699-1" does
though. No biggie and I'm not sure how I missed this in the inventory. Seems
to be only about 4 or 5 bags labeled this way.
Anyone local that has the right reamer for this and would be willing to have
me drop by to drill these two holes? I would be glad to offer a hand for
that job that you have been waiting on a extra set of hands.
Karie
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7A WD-421 Aileron Bell Crank bushing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Karie, a litte more on your question as a followup. As I recall, you are
> building a QB so you might not be aware of a couple things.
>
> The brackets the bolt goes through to hold the bell crank are bolted
through
> the spar web into nutplates on the forward side of the tiedown. The
length
> of the bolt and the length of the aft facing spar flange prohibit you from
> inserting the bolt without removing the top bell crank bracket. I would
> encourage you to ream and set the length of the bushing to your
satisfaction
> using the bracket spacing as a guide, making sure the length protrudes out
> each side of the bell crank assembly, so you don't have to keep bolting
and
> unbolting those top two bolts. I used some loctite as a little
reassurance
> in rebolting through those two nutplates.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments, Hangar flying my Dynon
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV6A project for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: tom crawford <iaretom@yahoo.com>
Sadly,
I have decided to sell my RV6A project.
This is the status-
All parts are epoxy primed.
Wings and tail are done.
QB fuse epoxy primed, cockpit painted(gray to match
control sticks), finished to point of finish kit.
(Controls, flaps, seats, floors, skins all done and
painted. Instrument panel done, ready to be cut for
instruments. (Fitted, but no cutouts.)
Includes complete finish kit due to be shipped
mid-September. (Could be shipped direct to you)
Have extra parts-
I have a fresh rebuilt Lycoming 0-360 for it.
Asking $18,000 without engine, $25,000 with engine.
Plane is in N. Florida
Private e-mail me for questions.
mailto:iaretom@yahoo.com
Thanks.
__________________________________
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: XP360 and Van's baffle kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Gary,
The baffle kit should be a good cross over as all the involved parts on the
engine are made as cross over part numbers. There should not be any cause
for serious miss fitting parts in the baffle kit.
Jim (not on fire, yet (B-)!) in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gary Liming" <gary@liming.org>
Subject: RV-List: XP360 and Van's baffle kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
>
>
> Could someone who's tried it tell me if the any of the baffle kits for the
> O-360 from Van's catalog works with little or no modification on the
XP360?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: XP360 and Van's baffle kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Stephan <mstephan@shr.net>
I am currently putting the baffles on my xp360 and they fit as good as the
baffle kit fits any engine, which requires some small modifications.
Frustrating at times, but much better that fabricating from scratch.
--
Michael Stephan
> From: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
> Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2003 19:48:21 -0500
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: XP360 and Van's baffle kit
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Liming <gary@liming.org>
>
>
> Could someone who's tried it tell me if the any of the baffle kits for the
> O-360 from Van's catalog works with little or no modification on the XP360?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Gary
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wing root fairing nutplates in tank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Hello listers,
I am still working on completing my wing root fairings. The inboard tank
rib has it's skin rivets only 3/4" spacing. Hardly enough room to install a
nutplate inbetween those for the fairing. My plans are very vague. Are
these just supposed to be sheet metal screws in this location without
nutplates?
Thanks
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6A projects in Quantico, VA area |
--> RV-List message posted by: Smcm75@aol.com
I have a 6A very near completion in Ashburn, Va. About 8 mi. weat of IAD.
Scott Morrow
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
How many RV's are going from the Denver area?
Stewart RV-4 colorado.
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Supposedly it will, I recieved the remote mag sensor, and when I get it in,
if it works as advertised then I can eliminate my DG and vacuum system. I
hope to get that installed shortly.
It does have a heading bug feature, but I am pretty confident it has no
outputs to drive an autopilot.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon IFR
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen"
<linenwool@comcast.net>
>
> Doug,
>
> Does the Dynon replace your DG? And it so, does it have a heading bug to
> drive a heading hold on your autopilot? I've been thinking about this
Dynon
> unit myself for IFR but would only find it feasible if I could replace
> Vacuum AI and DG with it and then have the other 4std instruments
(electric
> TC, Airspeed, Alt, and VSI) for failure backup.
>
> Do you use a TC or does your Navaid replace that sufficiently to be a
backup
> for bank?
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA
> RV8
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon IFR
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> I now have about 16 hours on my Dynon and flew my first IFR with it this
> weekend. I was going to Minot AFB this weekend for Northern Neighbors Day
> (airshow) and Friday morning the Metar was 1/2 mile Vis and clear. The
> perfect day for a first IFR trip because the haze went all the way to 8000
> ft, you could see the ground, barely, but absolutely no horizon. I took
off
> and hand flew the airplane for sometime and then turned on the Navaid.
> Aside from my previous concern about the Dynon sucking you into the
cockpit,
> I now have another concern, The display is so precise, that I fear I will
> become an EFIS cripple. Meaning I may not be able to fly steam gauges
> anymore. I can so accurately keep the wings level, the heading almost
never
> wanders. Same true with pitch, The VSI behaves more like an IVSI and you
> can find a pitch that will yield a certain rate of climb or decent and
hold
> that pitch perfectly and the Rate of climb (or decent) never wanders.
What
> a device.
>
>
> By the time I got into ND the haze was burning off, and I started to
notice
> the device was indicating a slight ~3 deg roll to the left. I centered the
> ball and checked my wingtips with the horizon and no doubt about it, it
was
> indicating a slight bank. I thought, well here we go, this thing won't
hold
> a calibration...... I tried slipping for a while and see if I could have
> any effect on it, but when I centered up, it was still off about 3 deg. I
> was not too concerned, I used to fly a 402 frieghter that had a horizon
that
> was off, about the same and I flew it that way for several years. I was
the
> airboss for the airshow, so I had bigger fish to fry and did not worry
about
> it. On Sunday, I hung around Minot with Warren Pietsch and we swapped
> airplanes, and I flew his 180 hp clipped wing Taylorcraft. What a hoot!!!
> He flew the RV and he really liked it as well.
>
> Last night I left his place and climbing to altitude I noticed the Dynon
> still had its bank error, so I decided I would have to send it in. I
> leveled at 11,500 turned on the Navaid and settled in for a 440 nm trip.
> (2+58 min, 22.5 gallons against a 10+ kt headwind, I love this airplane!)
> Shortly after level off, I looked at the Dynon, and it was dead on.....
Go
> figure???? Anyone else seen any wandering on the Dynon? I will email
them
> and see what they say.
>
> I am still thrilled with the Dynon and still very willing to fly IFR based
> on the backups that I have on board.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | RV-8 quick build kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Wiederholt" <mark_wiederholt@msn.com>
empanage 75% complete. Quick build kit untouched. Selling because of health problems.
Located in Houston. Make an offer 832-816-3547
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I put the nutplates in the skin overhang,not in the ribs. Too much chane of
a leak if you drill into the rib flange. A K-1000-8 doesn't take muck space
and they don't have much load to pull the holes out.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Yikes, I don't have any skin overlap. I better check my drawings to see if
I made a mistake I have yet to uncover. At anyrate, I don't have any
overhang. Guess I better start figuring out a new plan.
As always I appreciate your reply as well as any others.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I put the nutplates in the skin overhang,not in the ribs. Too much chane of
a leak if you drill into the rib flange. A K-1000-8 doesn't take muck space
and they don't have much load to pull the holes out.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
.
Message 14
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| Subject: | edge rolling leading edge of elevator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
Has anyone used an edge roller on the leading edge of the elevator or any
control surfaces that have the bending aluminum? After rolling the leading
edge with the pipe and attaching the clecos, I'm finding that between the
clecos the aluminum is lifting slightly and thought this might be fixed by
using the edge rolling tool.
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, WA.
RV8
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