Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:19 AM - Re: edge rolling leading edge of elevator (Greg Grigson)
2. 02:50 AM - Re: edge rolling leading edge of elevator (Ron Walker)
3. 05:04 AM - Re: edge rolling leading edge of elevator (Wier, Daniel C.)
4. 08:21 AM - Re: Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates (Elsa & Henry)
5. 09:47 AM - Compressor Noise (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
6. 10:44 AM - Landing gear attach brackets RV-8 (Geoff Evans)
7. 10:56 AM - Re: Compressor Noise (Stein Bruch)
8. 11:04 AM - Re: Compressor Noise (Brian Denk)
9. 11:09 AM - Re: Compressor Noise (Brad Benson)
10. 11:10 AM - Re: Landing gear attach brackets RV-8 (Rob Miller)
11. 11:38 AM - Re: Compressor Noise (Rob Prior)
12. 11:58 AM - Re: Compressor Noise (Steven Eberhart)
13. 12:00 PM - Re: Compressor Noise (Brad Benson)
14. 12:10 PM - Almost Ready to Build (BBreckenridge@att.net)
15. 12:14 PM - Re: Compressor Noise (Jim Jewell)
16. 12:16 PM - Pre punched- gotta love it. (Dana Overall)
17. 12:40 PM - Re: Almost Ready to Build (Brian Denk)
18. 12:51 PM - Re: Almost Ready to Build (DJB6A@cs.com)
19. 01:53 PM - Brake Leak (Wheeler North)
20. 02:08 PM - dead reckoning (Wheeler North)
21. 02:19 PM - Re: Emergency (Bob)
22. 02:27 PM - Re: dead reckoning (Brian Denk)
23. 02:35 PM - Re: Almost Ready to Build (Bill Dube)
24. 02:43 PM - Re: dead reckoning (Sam Buchanan)
25. 02:57 PM - Re: dead reckoning (Kysh)
26. 03:38 PM - Re: dead reckoning (Clinchy, Dave)
27. 04:43 PM - Re: Almost Ready to Build (Bill Dube)
28. 05:38 PM - corrision (Wheeler North)
29. 05:56 PM - Re: Pre punched- gotta love it. (Jim Sears)
30. 06:22 PM - Re: Almost Ready to Build (Larry Bowen)
31. 06:48 PM - Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates (dag adamson)
32. 08:09 PM - Re:Cool Tool;for screws into nutplates (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
33. 08:41 PM - Re: Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates (Brett Morawski)
34. 08:48 PM - Re: Almost Ready to Build (BillDube@killacycle.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: edge rolling leading edge of elevator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Yep I did. Works great!
Greg
Honolulu
Will & Lynda Allen <linenwool@comcast.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen"
Has anyone used an edge roller on the leading edge of the elevator or any
control surfaces that have the bending aluminum? After rolling the leading
edge with the pipe and attaching the clecos, I'm finding that between the
clecos the aluminum is lifting slightly and thought this might be fixed by
using the edge rolling tool.
Thanks,
-Will Allen
North Bend, WA.
RV8
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: edge rolling leading edge of elevator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Me also ... the leading edges of the elevators and the rudder where it gets
rolled with the pipe. A bit of a crease from the edge rolling tool will keep
it nice and flush where it meets the opposite side. Looks/works great!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: edge rolling leading edge of elevator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
>
> Yep I did. Works great!
>
> Greg
> Honolulu
>
> Will & Lynda Allen <linenwool@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen"
>
>
> Has anyone used an edge roller on the leading edge of the elevator or any
> control surfaces that have the bending aluminum? After rolling the leading
> edge with the pipe and attaching the clecos, I'm finding that between the
> clecos the aluminum is lifting slightly and thought this might be fixed by
> using the edge rolling tool.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA.
> RV8
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | edge rolling leading edge of elevator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wier, Daniel C." <daniel@thegreatwhite.net>
Can anyone send me a picture of their correctly finished rolled edge from several
angles? I do not think mine look right, but they could be.
Thanks,
Daniel Wier
Daniel@TheGreatWhite.net
________________________________
From: Ron Walker [mailto:ron@walker.net]=09
Subject: Re: RV-List: edge rolling leading edge of elevator=09
=09
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Me also ... the leading edges of the elevators and the rudder where it gets
rolled with the pipe. A bit of a crease from the edge rolling tool will keep
it nice and flush where it meets the opposite side. Looks/works great!
Ron
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: edge rolling leading edge of elevator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
>
> Yep I did. Works great!
>
> Greg
> Honolulu
>
> Will & Lynda Allen <linenwool@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen"
>
>
> Has anyone used an edge roller on the leading edge of the elevator or any
> control surfaces that have the bending aluminum? After rolling the leading
> edge with the pipe and attaching the clecos, I'm finding that between the
> clecos the aluminum is lifting slightly and thought this might be fixed by
> using the edge rolling tool.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Will Allen
> North Bend, WA.
> RV8
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re:Wing Root Fairing Nutplates |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Don't know what the -7 plans show, but dwg. 18 for the -6,(6A) shows a 1/2"
over-hang of the skin from the in-board rib flange edge. I had put some
masking tape along the inside of this over-hang with the edge of the tape
about 3/32" away from the flange edge to allow application of a fillet of
Proseal along the joint of the flange-to-skin interface (leak precaution).
After removing the tape, there really was not enough room on the remaining
overhang to dimple it to take the K-1100-8 nutplates. So I extended the
overhang with tabs riveted-in at the nutplate locations, wide enough to make
a good nutplate installation. This was done after the first wing trial
installation on the fuselage when the WRF was trial fitted and the screw
locations were finalized.
When you come to trim the WRF for a good contour fit to the fuselage side, I
found that a 3/16" gap is ideal for the seal that was provided (in my kit,
[then, in 1995] ) by Vans.
Cheers-----Henry Hore
Message 5
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| Subject: | Compressor Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
size for the project?
Thanks
Bob
Message 6
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| Subject: | Landing gear attach brackets RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Regarding the outboard landing gear attach brackets (U-803s) for an RV-8,
drawing 35 says to chamfer the outer corners so they don't interfere with the
bottom fuselage skins.
It looks like I'll have to grind away quite a bit of the steel in the U-803s
in order to get them to fit. Should I worry about removing "too much" steel,
or will I be okay if I remove whatever is necessary for the U-803s to nestle
up into the bottom corners of the fuselage skins?
Additionally, does anyone know why we are to remove metal from the U-803s as
opposed to cutting notches in the bottom skins and allowing the corners of
the U-803s to protrude slightly? The entire gear leg is sticking out in this
location, so the extra 1/4" that the attach bracket would stick out can't
really cause any drag issues. Would cutting a small notch in the skins in
this location drastically reduce their strength?
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB fuselage
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Compressor Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Bob,
You'll be fine as long as you stay away from the "oil-less" direct drive
compressors. Most of the belt driven single or double piston units are just
fine. They get louder as you get bigger, but my 7.5hp/80gallon/220V
Ingersoll Rand is still quieter than a old little craftsman "oiless" piece
of crap that I had years ago. I also have a 5hp 2cyl/40 gallon portable in
my garage and it's just fine. Mind you it's not silent, but fine without
ear protection.
Sorry I can't be more specific on brands, but the type is the first big
thing!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Condrey, Bob (US
SSA)
Subject: RV-List: Compressor Noise
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
size for the project?
Thanks
Bob
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
>size for the project?
>
>Thanks
>Bob
I have both a Campbell Hausfeld 3hp and a 5hp Craftsman. Both have served
me well but the 5 is better for higher volume use, due to it's 30 gallon
tank. They make noise, no doubt about that. If noise sensitivity inside
your home is an issue, then you can place it outside in a small hut that you
make for it, and pipe it inside the garage/shop. This hut can be insulated
for noise deadening. It must be ventilated properly though or you'll roast
your compressor in no time. You'll be working on sheet metal, and it's not
a quiet material. Riveting is usually done in batches only sporadically,
and the greatest noise is from drilling, grinding and buffng. I also shut
the door to my shop when riveting to keep the neighbors happy.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 empacone 40051
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
For my RV6A project, I bought a 25 gallon, "5 hp", oil-lubricated model from Campbell
Hausfeld. I've been very happy with it, recognizing that there is no
way for it to get 5hp out of a 120volt outlet. I suspect it would be weak at
extended painting, but for everything else including priming it has worked fine.
I would definately get a oil-lubricated model as they are *much* quieter
than the oil free units. That said, they're still loud - just not painfully
so :-).
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 8/25/2003 at 9:45 AM Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
><bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
>size for the project?
>
>Thanks
>Bob
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Landing gear attach brackets RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Miller <rmill2000@yahoo.com>
Geoff
Notch the skins as necessary to make those attachments fit. The whole
area is covered by a fairing anyway so rounding-out the skins a little to
make the brackets fit will not be a problem. I would advise against
removing metal from those brackets--they have to handle quite a load.
--- Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
> Regarding the outboard landing gear attach brackets (U-803s) for an
> RV-8,
> drawing 35 says to chamfer the outer corners so they don't interfere
> with the
> bottom fuselage skins.
>
> It looks like I'll have to grind away quite a bit of the steel in the
> U-803s
> in order to get them to fit. Should I worry about removing "too much"
> steel,
> or will I be okay if I remove whatever is necessary for the U-803s to
> nestle
> up into the bottom corners of the fuselage skins?
>
> Additionally, does anyone know why we are to remove metal from the
> U-803s as
> opposed to cutting notches in the bottom skins and allowing the corners
> of
> the U-803s to protrude slightly? The entire gear leg is sticking out in
> this
> location, so the extra 1/4" that the attach bracket would stick out
> can't
> really cause any drag issues. Would cutting a small notch in the skins
> in
> this location drastically reduce their strength?
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB fuselage
>
> __________________________________
> http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====
Rob Miller RV-8 N262RM 135 hours
Bad Cat Aviation--Toy Airplanes and Unique Pilot Gifts
www.badcataviation.com
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
I bought one of these as well. It came with instructions how to re-wire
it for 220V, so if you wanted to you *could* get 5HP out of it. But it
seems to work just fine on 120V, with the 2-3HP it's using. I had
planned on re-wiring it and connecting it to my (clothes) dryer outlet,
as that's a convenient 220V circuit, but I never got around to it and
now don't see the need.
-Rob
Brad Benson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>
>
> For my RV6A project, I bought a 25 gallon, "5 hp", oil-lubricated model from
Campbell Hausfeld. I've been very happy with it, recognizing that there is no
way for it to get 5hp out of a 120volt outlet. I suspect it would be weak
at extended painting, but for everything else including priming it has worked
fine. I would definately get a oil-lubricated model as they are *much* quieter
than the oil free units. That said, they're still loud - just not painfully
so :-).
>
> Thanks!
> Brad "Sharpie" Benson
> RV6AQB underway...
> "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
>
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>
> On 8/25/2003 at 9:45 AM Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>><bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>
>>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
>>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
>>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
>>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
>>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
>>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
>>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
>>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
>>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
>>size for the project?
>>
>>Thanks
>>Bob
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
I looked around at 60 gal tank units at Home Depot. Lowes, Rural King,
Tractor Supply and Harbor Freight. Funny thing, they all seem to be
made by the same company, just painted different colors. I ended up
buying the 220 VAC, 6.5 Hp, 60 Gal. oiled unit from Home Depot. Why?
Home Depot sponsors Tony Stewart and my wife likes him. Home Depot also
delivered the compressor and all of the wood to build my EAA Chapter
1000 work benches and the H frame used to jig my empennage and wings.
My kit was an early RV-7 kit and they still recommended using the H
frame. I like the 60 gal tank. The die grinder uses the most air and
the compressor will periodically cycle when using it a lot.
I also plumbed my shop for overhead air delivery and use the plastic
coiled air hoses at each drop. Even went overboard and painted the
floor with epoxy paint. Since I only get to use half of the two car
garage, I put a large carpet remnant down in the work area. Easier on
the feet and the aluminum shavings still vacuum up ok. Harder to find
all of the rivets when you spill a bottle of them but worth the effort.
If I were to do it again today, I would still do everything exactly the
same.
Tools I wouldn't part with? I consider my pneumatic rivet squeezer right
up there at the top. I don't even own a hand squeezer and only miss not
having one when it would be nice to partially squeeze a rived to
increase its diameter before inserting into a rivet hole that has been
drilled out several times. Just buy a supply of oops rivets from Van
and save the money for the hand squeezer.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A, working on the second wing panel and saving money for my fuselage
kit.
Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
> After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
> decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
> I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
> on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
> anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
> is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
> the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
> is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
> specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
> size for the project?
>
> Thanks
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
Mine didn't come with any such instructions, but I think I will call CH and see
if I can get some. My compressor is almost directly under the panel in the
garage, so 220 would be easy to get. Thanks for the tip!
Thanks!
Brad "Sharpie" Benson
RV6AQB underway...
"Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" - http://www.notamd.com
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
On 8/25/2003 at 11:37 AM Rob Prior wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
>I bought one of these as well. It came with instructions how to re-wire
>it for 220V, so if you wanted to you *could* get 5HP out of it. But it
>seems to work just fine on 120V, with the 2-3HP it's using. I had
>planned on re-wiring it and connecting it to my (clothes) dryer outlet,
>as that's a convenient 220V circuit, but I never got around to it and
>now don't see the need.
>
>-Rob
>
>Brad Benson wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
>>
>>
>> For my RV6A project, I bought a 25 gallon, "5 hp", oil-lubricated model
>from Campbell Hausfeld. I've been very happy with it, recognizing that
>there is no way for it to get 5hp out of a 120volt outlet. I suspect it
>would be weak at extended painting, but for everything else including
>priming it has worked fine. I would definately get a oil-lubricated
>model as they are *much* quieter than the oil free units. That said,
>they're still loud - just not painfully so :-).
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Brad "Sharpie" Benson
>> RV6AQB underway...
>> "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
>http://www.notamd.com
>>
>> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
>>
>> On 8/25/2003 at 9:45 AM Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
>>><bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>>>
>>>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
>>>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
>>>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
>>>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
>>>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
>>>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
>>>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
>>>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
>>>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
>>>size for the project?
>>>
>>>Thanks
>>>Bob
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Almost Ready to Build |
--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
Listers;
As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot system (TruTrak at
this point),
lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft. Question: Are there any
flight instruments I
should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
Thanks for your input,
Bruce Breckenridge
Awaiting RV-10
Do Not Archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Compressor Noise |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Rob,
I was told that setting up the old Sears oil type two piston compressor to
run with 220 was more efficient, so I did so 20 years ago and it still runs
great.
It keeps up to my cheapo HVLP spray gun and recovers quite fast when used
hard.
The unit is livable noise wise.
Who knows over the years I might have saved enough on the electric bills to
pay for the RV......{P-)!
Jim in smoking Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Compressor Noise
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> I bought one of these as well. It came with instructions how to re-wire
> it for 220V, so if you wanted to you *could* get 5HP out of it. But it
> seems to work just fine on 120V, with the 2-3HP it's using. I had
> planned on re-wiring it and connecting it to my (clothes) dryer outlet,
> as that's a convenient 220V circuit, but I never got around to it and
> now don't see the need.
>
> -Rob
>
> Brad Benson wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Brad Benson" <brad@cds-inc.com>
> >
> >
> > For my RV6A project, I bought a 25 gallon, "5 hp", oil-lubricated model
from Campbell Hausfeld. I've been very happy with it, recognizing that
there is no way for it to get 5hp out of a 120volt outlet. I suspect it
would be weak at extended painting, but for everything else including
priming it has worked fine. I would definately get a oil-lubricated model
as they are *much* quieter than the oil free units. That said, they're
still loud - just not painfully so :-).
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Brad "Sharpie" Benson
> > RV6AQB underway...
> > "Please buy my software, it's funding my RV6A project!" -
http://www.notamd.com
> >
> > *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
> >
> > On 8/25/2003 at 9:45 AM Condrey, Bob (US SSA) wrote:
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
> >><bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
> >>
> >>After a lot of lurking and consideration of different planes I've
> >>decided to take the plunge for an RV-10. While waiting on the emp kit,
> >>I now need to start equipping the shop. I've seen a lot of discussions
> >>on compressors and looked back through the archives but never found
> >>anything really definitive that answers my question (maybe because this
> >>is subjective?). It appears that size isn't critical given that most of
> >>the tools are low air users but bigger is better. What I'd really like
> >>is specific recommendations for something that is relatively quiet - any
> >>specific make/models that are quieter than others and of a sufficient
> >>size for the project?
> >>
> >>Thanks
> >>Bob
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Pre punched- gotta love it. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Welp, looking at my canoe and still smiling at just how well all the
prepunched stuff went together I got out the ever so incriminating smart
level. Remember, these pre punched fuselages get built using three
sawhorses and no jigs. Mine is going to fly crooked and
sideways...........only because of the pilot!! It's 2/10 of a degree off!!
That is without the installation of the aft deck which is used for taking
any built in twist out. Just for grins I pulled out the bubble level,
knowing the answer beforehand. You can't see 2/10 of a degree with a bubble
level. It appears, with a bubble, to be dead nuts straight.
Sorry, I just had to make a public................Thanks
Van's..................statement.
This thing is getting big quick!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon!!
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Almost Ready to Build |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
>Listers;
>
>As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot system (TruTrak
>at this point),
>lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft. Question: Are
>there any flight instruments I
>should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
>
>Thanks for your input,
>
>Bruce Breckenridge
>Awaiting RV-10
>
No. You won't need them for a long time.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 empacone 40051
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Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Almost Ready to Build |
--> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
You may want to consider getting your TruTrak wing servo installation kit.
Although it can be installed later, it is easier to do it before closing the
wings.
Dave Burnham
(N64FN - reserved)
RV6A Wiring etc.
> >Listers;
> >
> >As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot system (TruTrak
>
> >at this point),
> >lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft. Question: Are
> >there any flight instruments I
> >should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
> >
> >Thanks for your input,
> >
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Folks,
a while ago I posted about a bubble appearing in my right brake system
between the copilot and pilot's master cylinders after going upsidedown.
Well, a few months ago I finally noticed a small amount of fluid coming from
the top of the right brake pilot's master cylinder where the push rod enters
into the top bushing.
Upon overhauling this I found that the top oring was marred, and the shaft
was kind of rough in a few areas. Not specific dings but the finish was
marred as if by abrasion. Not sure if this happened during construction or
it was delivered this way. I could find no evidence of something causing
this as installed.
I chucked it up in the lathe and polished it working from 400 grit to 2000
and some rouge. And now the bubble no longer appears after doing
aerobatics.
So the moral of the story is to go upsidedown every flight to verify that
your master cylinders are not at the post airleaking - pre fluidleaking
stage.
W
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Have you ever wondered why they call it "Dead" reckoning. Its seems like
"Live" reckoning would provide a much higher level of positive karma on the
outcome.
do not archive
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
> >From Previous post:
>If my GPS fails . . I'll declare an emergency ??!!!???
>
>With all due respect; are you kidding. You do what you need to do to
>conclude your flight safely. Knowing your limits shows good judgement and
>that is the most important thing.
>But I'd suggest you practice without a GPS once in a while.
At least I took it as kidding, but the original topic was reliability of
this vs that and vacuum vs non vacuum and how could you possibly even
remotely consider flying IFR without dual everything and backups for every
system.
Now with dual alternators, a Blue Mountain EFIS and DYNON EFIS both backed
up by a Grand Rapids EFIS,and all three with independent backup batteries,
dual independent vacuum sytems, two venturi vacuum systems, four Nav
Radios, 3 Com Radios, HSI, Radio Compass, AN Receiver, LORAN, dual ASI,
dual altimeter, dual outside temp gauges, triple vacuum gauges and at least
one angle of attack indicator of every make and model and THEN YOUR ONLY
HANDHELD GPS FAILS! Well then ... you see my point!
The irony of the entire message is that you can just about land anywhere go
to KMart and buy another handheld GPS, but all that other stuff? Of all
the stuff in my airplane, the most reliable thing I have is my handheld
GPS! And if it fails, that means that everything else has already gone
Tango Uniform and then I will:
1. Declare an emergency
2. Land
3. Buy another GPS!
For the humor impaired, and for those who do not also see the irony of the
Arnold VS Cruz fight in California, this is.... oh never mind, I've lost
you long before this part anyway.
Please Do (not that I am boastful) Archive
Bob
RV6 The Night Fighter
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: dead reckoning |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Have you ever wondered why they call it "Dead" reckoning. Its seems like
>"Live" reckoning would provide a much higher level of positive karma on the
>outcome.
>
>do not archive
My understanding is that the original term is "ded reckoning"....meaning
"deduced" reckoning. Then naturally, with aviators being the clever lads
they are, it was stretched to "dead"...as in, if you don't get it right,
you're dead! Well, maybe not to that drastic extent, but aviator stories and
fishing tales are often borne from the same region in the brain.
I can dig the karma aspect of it. I try to avoid the term entirely. Freaks
people out. Just like the often abused "well, we survived another one"
spoken just after landing. Geeze, as if there was any doubt.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
do not archive
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Almost Ready to Build |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 07:10 PM 8/25/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
>Listers;
>
>As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot system
>(TruTrak at this point),
>lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft. Question: Are
>there any flight instruments I
>should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
they will get. It is a purchase best delayed.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: dead reckoning |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Wheeler North wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Have you ever wondered why they call it "Dead" reckoning. Its seems like
> "Live" reckoning would provide a much higher level of positive karma on the
> outcome.
Do a Google search on "ded reckoning" and you will find some interesting
articles telling how "dead reckoning" may be a corruption of the old
nautical practice of ded (deduced) reckoning.
Seems the technique may have originated with tossing an object into the
water to check the speed and direction of the ship. If wind and current
was figured into the process, it was ded (deduced) reckoning. If wind
and current wasn't part of the solution, it was dead (the object was
dead in the water) reckoning.
Or somethin' like that.............
Navigation by dead reckoning in aviation is via time and distance as
opposed to pilotage which uses terrestrial checkpoints.
There.........you now know FAR more than you EVER wanted to know about
dead reckoning! :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: dead reckoning |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
As Wheeler North was saying:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Have you ever wondered why they call it "Dead" reckoning. Its seems like
> "Live" reckoning would provide a much higher level of positive karma on the
> outcome.
Thought it was 'ded reckoning'?
do not archive
-Kysh
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.infrastructure.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
| Give blood: Play Hockey! http://www.unixdragon.com/ |
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Clinchy, Dave" <clinchd@losrios.edu>
I asked my Dad that once (old Air force pilot) - he said it comes from
"deduced reckoning" - chart, ruler, protractor and wizwheel.
Dave C
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
Subject: RV-List: dead reckoning
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Have you ever wondered why they call it "Dead" reckoning. Its seems like
"Live" reckoning would provide a much higher level of positive karma on
the outcome.
do not archive
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Almost Ready to Build |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 07:10 PM 8/25/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
>Listers;
>
>As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot system
>(TruTrak at this point),
>lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft. Question: Are
>there any flight instruments I
>should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
The longer you wait, the better and cheaper these instruments will
get. Wait until the last minute to buy. The only exception would be the
auto-pilot. You would want to buy this when you are working on the wing.
>Thanks for your input,
>
>Bruce Breckenridge
>Awaiting RV-10
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Kinda out of date guys as I'm catching up but, most breeds of aluminum and
1100 series steel aren't that corrosive """compared to many other
combinations""".
The reference to car engine failures isn't really accurate. The most common
failure is not due to corrosion but due to variances in their coefficient of
thermal expansion. The head gaskets get scrubbed. Inline engines see it more
often on the end cylinders as they are longer. Then exhaust gasses start to
errode the aluminum as the joint is failing. Also the coolant becomes very
corrosive as the exhaust gasses begin to work on it as well.
Now, you want a bad combination mix corrosion resistant steels with
aluminum. In boats I've seen aluminum fuel tanks cut in half via corrosion,
not abrasion due to wet proximity to SS lines.
This is why the SS screw sets they sell for aircraft are nutty. In standard
steel the steel will show corrosion by the time the aluminum is also
beginning to corrode. SS harware will look just fine when the aluminum skin
is dust underneath it.
W
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Pre punched- gotta love it. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
Hell, mine was that good without the aid of prepunched holes. :-)
BTW, I'm about to start looking closely at a Dragonfly. Should be interesting.
The fella even mentioned my doing some work on it to prep it for flight. It's
been flown before; but, it was taken apart to transport to his house not far
from me. He has a A but, it has a lot of rust on it.
Jim
> Welp, looking at my canoe and still smiling at just how well all the
> prepunched stuff went together I got out the ever so incriminating smart
> level. Remember, these pre punched fuselages get built using three
> sawhorses and no jigs. Mine is going to fly crooked and
> sideways...........only because of the pilot!! It's 2/10 of a degree off!!
> That is without the installation of the aft deck which is used for taking
> any built in twist out. Just for grins I pulled out the bubble level,
> knowing the answer beforehand. You can't see 2/10 of a degree with a bubble
> level. It appears, with a bubble, to be dead nuts straight.
>
> Sorry, I just had to make a public................Thanks
> Van's..................statement.
>
> This thing is getting big quick!!
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Almost Ready to Build |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
No. The technology and your ideas/thought/preferences will change by
the time you are ready to populate you panel. Beside, some of them will
rot on the shelf if they don't see frequent use.
Looking back, it humorous how wilding my 'ideal' panel has changed over
the years.
My two cents.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
2003 - The year of flight!
> -----Original Message-----
> From: BBreckenridge@att.net [mailto:BBreckenridge@att.net]
> Sent: Monday, August 25, 2003 3:10 PM
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Almost Ready to Build
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: BBreckenridge@att.net
>
> Listers;
>
> As I begin my 1st RV project, I envision using an autopilot
> system (TruTrak at this point),
> lighting, etc. I plan on building it as an IFR craft.
> Question: Are there any flight instruments I
> should purchase to have on hand when starting the plane?
>
> Thanks for your input,
>
> Bruce Breckenridge
> Awaiting RV-10
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates |
--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
Hello-
Just discovered a very cool tool for getting #8 screws
in to those zillions of nutplates in the cockpit.
I am psyched because I have destroyed a bunch of screw
heads over the past year or so and I felt like a
girly-man for not being able to turn a #2 Craftsman
screw driver to get the screws in. (Despite trying to
use oil/wax/ you name it - I was even tempted and
wrongfully advised to tap the darn nutplates).
Solution:
Snap-on Screwdriver ratchet. Its not one of those
ratchet handles where you place hex bits - its a
ratchet where you can take a regular screwdriver place
it through the round hole of the ratchet and can
either tighten or flip it over and loosen. It comes
with bits although I prefer the a regular screwdriver
so I can get to those ever convenient screws that
seemingly are right next to outside panels and baggage
panels. $25
I also discovered that a good quality Snap-On phillips
head screwdriver makes a difference too. $15
The right tool. Priceless. Its the little victories.
-Dag
=====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Grand Junction, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re:Cool Tool;for screws into nutplates |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I have a hex bit holder which I like to use with my Snap-On 1/4" drive
ratchet. The Snap-On ratchet has a flat top so you can put your thumb on to push.
I get drywall #2 phillips screwdriver bits at a good building supply
place-the small point kind with serrated flutes. Those babies hold to the screw
really
well. I always tighten screws with the ratchet,NOT my cordless drill.
You can also get the bottom wheel fairing screws with the ratchet.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 33
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| Subject: | Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
P/N? (Still working on my emp. but always looking for an excuse to buy a
new tool).
Brett Morawski
Toledo, OH
-8(a?) emp.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of dag adamson
Subject: RV-List: Cool Tool: For screws in to nut plates
--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
Hello-
Just discovered a very cool tool for getting #8 screws
in to those zillions of nutplates in the cockpit.
I am psyched because I have destroyed a bunch of screw
heads over the past year or so and I felt like a
girly-man for not being able to turn a #2 Craftsman
screw driver to get the screws in. (Despite trying to
use oil/wax/ you name it - I was even tempted and
wrongfully advised to tap the darn nutplates).
Solution:
Snap-on Screwdriver ratchet. Its not one of those
ratchet handles where you place hex bits - its a
ratchet where you can take a regular screwdriver place
it through the round hole of the ratchet and can
either tighten or flip it over and loosen. It comes
with bits although I prefer the a regular screwdriver
so I can get to those ever convenient screws that
seemingly are right next to outside panels and baggage
panels. $25
I also discovered that a good quality Snap-On phillips
head screwdriver makes a difference too. $15
The right tool. Priceless. Its the little victories.
-Dag
=====
*****************
Dag Adamson
617 513 1182
Cambridge, MA
Grand Junction, CO
*****************
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 34
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| Subject: | Almost Ready to Build |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BillDube@killacycle.com" <BillDube@killacycle.com>
A pair of my LED Position lights are in the air! Bob Gross was one of the
first folks to order a kit and is the first one to fly a set of LED
position lights.
See what a nice job he did building the compact square version of the kit
at:
<http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/ledlites.html>
Bill Dube <LED@Killacycle.com>
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