Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:42 AM - Re: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds (RV8ter@aol.com)
2. 03:49 AM - Re: Order of Events.... (Jerry Calvert)
3. 04:28 AM - Re: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds (Kevin Horton)
4. 04:49 AM - Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. (Mark Phillips)
5. 05:28 AM - Re: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds (Len Leggette)
6. 06:10 AM - Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds (RV_8 Pilot)
7. 06:13 AM - Pitot selection (long) (Ken Simmons)
8. 06:14 AM - Re: Aeroflash vs. Whelen Strobes (Phil Birkelbach)
9. 06:39 AM - Re: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
10. 06:42 AM - Re: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds (lucky macy)
11. 06:48 AM - Re: Pitot selection (long) (Kevin Horton)
12. 07:30 AM - Re: Order of Events.... (Mike Robertson)
13. 07:32 AM - Re: Night Vision (Mike Robertson)
14. 07:39 AM - Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. (Tim Bryan)
15. 07:40 AM - Re: Exporting / Importing to the States (Mike Robertson)
16. 07:54 AM - Re: Night Vision (lucky macy)
17. 07:55 AM - Re: Pitot selection (long) (LarryRobertHelming)
18. 07:56 AM - Re: Order of Events.... (Tim Bryan)
19. 08:01 AM - Re: Pitot selection (long) (Tim Bryan)
20. 08:15 AM - Re: Archer VOR antenna and Garmin 430 (Laird Owens)
21. 08:43 AM - Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. (David Carter)
22. 09:10 AM - How many Dynons are actually flyiing? (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
23. 09:38 AM - Re: Dynon Experience (Pat Hatch)
24. 10:20 AM - Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. (Jim Oke)
25. 10:33 AM - Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds (RV_8 Pilot)
26. 11:05 AM - Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. (Scott Bilinski)
27. 11:09 AM - Re: Night Vision (Mike Robertson)
28. 12:25 PM - Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. (Jim Jewell)
29. 12:25 PM - Re: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds (Doug Rozendaal)
30. 01:44 PM - Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. (Elsa & Henry)
31. 05:14 PM - Tail and Wing kit for sale (George and Mary Armstrong)
32. 06:09 PM - kinda off topic.... (John Starn)
33. 07:48 PM - RV-6A kit for sale (Doug Weiler)
34. 08:46 PM - Re: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds (Stein Bruch)
35. 11:31 PM - Simple Carb Heat Muff (George McNutt)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
are folks really doing snap rolls in RVs?
When I look at how the VS is attached it gives me the willies just thinking
about it!
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Order of Events.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
Hi kurt,
Here was my sequence:
1. Cowl - Check out Sam Buchanan's web site for simulating the prop
extension with spacers. Hanging prop first just gets in the way IMHO.
2. Baffle - get ready to put on, fit, take off, trim, adjust, put on, head
scratching over plans ...about 50 times. Lots of beer helps on this phase.
3. FAB - a fairly enjoyable non event session or two. Snorkle is off center
a little to mate up with the air intake on cowl, so cowl needs to be fitted.
4. Prop - my preference is to leave off as long a possible.
Enjoy...
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC "Lil' Huzzy"
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6AOKC@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Order of Events....
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
> Polling the masses once again.....have a few "semi-major" projects left on
my
> 6A. Mainly: 1. Hanging Prop
> 2. Baffeling
> 3. FAB
> 4. Cowl Trim/Fit/Install (Skybolt Camlocks)
>
> My question is based on your past experience what is the best order to
> complete all of these projects? Im guessing Prop, Cowl, FAB, Baffeling???
Im at
> the point in vans instructions where you are for the most part on your
own!!!
> Thanks...
>
> Kurt in OKC
> 6A finishing....
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
>are folks really doing snap rolls in RVs?
>
>When I look at how the VS is attached it gives me the willies just thinking
>about it!
>
>do not archive
RVs are great aircraft for "fun" aerobatics. But they are not really
built for the more violent manoeuvres, such as snap rolls, lomcevaks,
etc. It's not a Pitts.
Anyone who really wants to do snap rolls should clear it with Van first.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Dave-
Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process were various
sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various 1/4" drive
extensions & universal joints will get to just about any "unreachable" location.
I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor at OSH last year
and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need one of those little
magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the inevitable
dropped hardware...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A - running wires!!!
"David R. Cook" wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David R. Cook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
> Listers
> Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the fuse that
hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the access
hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by 3&1/4. I'm in the
process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the bottom bolts to
get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to the bolts latter anyhow.
> Thanks Dave Cook
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Len Leggette" <len@jessicacharles.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Smith <viperpilot@usa.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Smith" <viperpilot@usa.com>
>
> Does anyone know of a good source for RV model specific entry speeds and
attitudes for basic sport aerobatics? Specifically for a 6A.
>
> Also, if anyone knows of a good aerobatics instructor within a hundred
miles or so of Lexington, KY, that would be great also.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Matt
> RV6A
>
Matt:
Adam Cope in the DC area is a very good instructor. He went to aviation
school at Averett College in Danville, Va and will also come to you in his
Citabria for ferrying fee.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
132 hrs
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
No snaps for me in the RV, only moderate (3 or 3.5 g max) positive acro.
Did a few in the early testing phases, but don't believe the structure is
sufficient for routine snapping and more significantly, too many strange
noises coming from the aft section during the maneuvers.
Speaking of critical aerobatic speeds, as with the split-S, after rolling
inverted on the 45 upline in the Reverse Cuban 8, make sure you're at a
very low (minimum controllable) speed before pulling.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
> >are folks really doing snap rolls in RVs?
> >
> >When I look at how the VS is attached it gives me the willies just
>thinking
> >about it!
> >
> >do not archive
>
>RVs are great aircraft for "fun" aerobatics. But they are not really
>built for the more violent manoeuvres, such as snap rolls, lomcevaks,
>etc. It's not a Pitts.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Pitot selection (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
Sorry to bring up an old topic that's been beat to death, but I'm really stuck
on this one.
I had planned on using the Gretz pitot mount with the Dynon pitot for AOA. I've
since decided to use the PSS AOA so I won't need Dynon's pitot.
I've read through the archives about this topic and looked at many builder's websites.
It seems many are using the Gretz because of the ability to install a
heated pitot for IFR operations. Someone also mentioned that a heated pitot is
not a requirement and their is no other deicing equipment on an RV. I also remember
having a heated pitot in the C172 I used for my IFR ticket and it didn't
have any other form of deicing equipment. I guess if you started getting ice
on the wings it would be nice to have an accurate airspeed indicator so you don't
stall trying to maintain altitude.
In my case I don't plan to do any serious IFR. My airplane will be technically
legal for IFR ops, but that's for a "just in case" scenario.
In my case it seems to boil down to cost vs. looks vs. installation complexity
so Van's standard pitot seems to be the winner. If I'm missing something please
let me know.
Thanks.
Ken
RV-8 wings (still!)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
The Internet Truckstop
The first and largest
freight matching
service on the
Intenet
______________ ______________ ______________ ______________
Sent via the KillerWebMail system at truckstop.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Aeroflash vs. Whelen Strobes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
You could also think about using a Nova power supply. It will drive all the
Whelen heads, it costs less, it has at least the same power output, it costs
less, it uses the same wiring connectors, it costs less and it has more
features. Oh did I mention it costs less.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aeroflash vs. Whelen Strobes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> Speaking of strobes...are there any advantages of the Whelan over the
Aeroflash? It seems that the Aeroflash offer a significant price savings.
Given that the Aeroflash are not PMA'd (and don't carry the price premium),
they would be the "experimental" aircraft owners choice. Are those with the
Aeroflash happy customers?
>
> Thanks,
> Scott
> 7A Emp/Wings
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | RV aerobatics techniques and speeds |
tests=AWL,BAYES_01,NO_REAL_NAME,ORIGINAL_MESSAGE,
USER_IN_WHITELIST
autolearn=ham version=2.53
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
George I have them in my POH in my downloads section.
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
I like all the comments made so far.
I had about 20 hours in an extra300, and 10ish in a super decathlon and they
were very helpful. Definitely get some time in a decathalon or similar, or
better yet, another RV.
Ditto the split s' comments.
And yes folks are doing snaps. Me personally, mine are lazy snaps. I never
jerk the stick to the corner like I would in an extra, I ease it over on a 2
sec count and that is my limit on the snap. I started with spins from
hammerheads to get the feel and gently progressed to snaps in Cuban eights
at very slow speeds. Example, on the downline of the Cuban at say 60mph
(start out slow) begin the snap. It is very easy on the plane and easy on
you to get the feel. From there I progressed to level ones. But I really
prefer doing them in Cubans when the AS is slow. Again always lazy snaps. I
really don't like getting jerked around, I like to ease around the
maneuvers. Much harder to finesse and much more challenging to get right
when you are driving through the maneuvers then jerking through the
maneuvers.
Of course all the normal caveats apply. This is just MY way of flying and
learning in MY plane that I BUILT.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: George McNutt [mailto:gmcnutt@intergate.ca]
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Subject: RV-List: RV aerobatics techniques and speeds
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Smith" <viperpilot@usa.com>
Does anyone know of a good source for RV model specific entry speeds and
attitudes for basic sport aerobatics? Specifically for a 6A.
Also, if anyone knows of a good aerobatics instructor within a hundred miles
or so of Lexington, KY, that would be great also.
Thanks,
Matt
RV6A
Entry speeds are listed in RV-6A building instructions Section 15, page 25.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
a favorite turnaround maneuver I like to do in acro planes is the stall
turn. No issues in the design with that maneuver, i hope. Any thoughts
other than the same for any plane such as flopping on your back and getting
into an inverted spin or pulling out at too high a speed or too aggressively
and stall, etc.
the full rudder input takes place at minimal airspeed so if done right not a
problem. I don't think Van's aircraft is designed at all to have a lot of
force against the tail like you can get with a tail slide which is one way
you can dork up this maneuver.
Just curious, anyone tried a stall turn or tail slide?
supposedly a lot of RV-4s have been in IAC competitions so i would suspect
we have some listers who have dabbled.
>From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds
>Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 08:09:19 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>No snaps for me in the RV, only moderate (3 or 3.5 g max) positive acro.
>Did a few in the early testing phases, but don't believe the structure is
>sufficient for routine snapping and more significantly, too many strange
>noises coming from the aft section during the maneuvers.
>
>Speaking of critical aerobatic speeds, as with the split-S, after rolling
>inverted on the 45 upline in the Reverse Cuban 8, make sure you're at a
>very low (minimum controllable) speed before pulling.
>
>Bryan Jones -8
>Pearland, Texas
>
> > >are folks really doing snap rolls in RVs?
> > >
> > >When I look at how the VS is attached it gives me the willies just
> >thinking
> > >about it!
> > >
> > >do not archive
> >
> >RVs are great aircraft for "fun" aerobatics. But they are not really
> >built for the more violent manoeuvres, such as snap rolls, lomcevaks,
> >etc. It's not a Pitts.
>
>
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Pitot selection (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
>Sorry to bring up an old topic that's been beat to death, but I'm
>really stuck on this one.
>
>I had planned on using the Gretz pitot mount with the Dynon pitot
>for AOA. I've since decided to use the PSS AOA so I won't need
>Dynon's pitot.
>
>I've read through the archives about this topic and looked at many
>builder's websites. It seems many are using the Gretz because of the
>ability to install a heated pitot for IFR operations. Someone also
>mentioned that a heated pitot is not a requirement and their is no
>other deicing equipment on an RV. I also remember having a heated
>pitot in the C172 I used for my IFR ticket and it didn't have any
>other form of deicing equipment. I guess if you started getting ice
>on the wings it would be nice to have an accurate airspeed indicator
>so you don't stall trying to maintain altitude.
>
>In my case I don't plan to do any serious IFR. My airplane will be
>technically legal for IFR ops, but that's for a "just in case"
>scenario.
>
>In my case it seems to boil down to cost vs. looks vs. installation
>complexity so Van's standard pitot seems to be the winner. If I'm
>missing something please let me know.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ken
>RV-8 wings (still!)
>
While we are not required to follow FAR 23, it certainly is worth
considering what it says, as usually the requirements followed
accidents. FAR 23.1323 was amended in 1991 to include:
"If certification for instrument flight rules or flight in icing
conditions is requested, each airspeed system must have a heated
pitot tube or an equivalent means of preventing malfunction due to
icing."
If you plan to fly IFR above the freezing level, I would recommend a
heated pitot tube.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Order of Events.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Kurt,
I would suggest the following order:
1) Hang the prop first, then
2) Mount the cowling,
3) do the FAB, and
4) then do the Baffle
You could make a plywood template of the prop spinner backing plate to aid
in installing the cowling right, but I found it just as easy to mount the
prop, then just use the spinner backing plate itself in order to mount the
cowling symetrically to the prop. You need to have the cowling installed
before you can get the FAB and baffles corecctly installed. You could start
both first but it would be more difficult during the final trimming stages
on the baffle.
Mike Robertson
>From: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Order of Events....
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 23:42:01 EDT
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
>Polling the masses once again.....have a few "semi-major" projects left on
>my
>6A. Mainly: 1. Hanging Prop
> 2. Baffeling
> 3. FAB
> 4. Cowl Trim/Fit/Install (Skybolt Camlocks)
>
>My question is based on your past experience what is the best order to
>complete all of these projects? Im guessing Prop, Cowl, FAB, Baffeling???
>Im at
>the point in vans instructions where you are for the most part on your
>own!!!
>Thanks...
>
>Kurt in OKC
>6A finishing....
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Night Vision |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Paul,
You will probably be using the newer ANVIS 6 goggles. I have amny hours
with them and found them delightful, especially in complarison to the
earlier NVG 4's, and 5's. The 6's are very clear and light weight. Have
fun
Mike Robertson
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 18:36:29 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
>In about 8 weeks, I start night vision goggle training in an OH-58. I'll
>have about 20 hours of night flight with goggles on. Not sure what
>generation we use here in the Army. I'd be happy to provide feedback when
>I
>get through at the end of November.
>
>My experience with goggles are they are horrible for depth perception.
>I've
>driven with them. Can't imaging flying with them. Night flight is truly
>enjoyable, and doesn't need to be ruined by looking at fuzzy green light.
>IMHO, fly IFR altitudes (if not IFR flight plan) and enjoy the ride.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> >
> >
> > > I was just reading the AOPA Pilot magazine article on night flight.
>Has
> > > anyone used night vision goggles to tell the difference between forest
> > > and field at night? I am talking about surplus type of goggle like the
> > > Harbor freight import.
> > > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47626
> > > Would such a goggle be of any use for improving safety of night
>flight?
> >
> > I've used generation 1, 2 and 3 goggles. There are several issues with
>them.
> > The early models have poor resolution and light intensifying capability.
> > Since you are looking at a tv screen and not at the actual image the
> > resolution is very important. Cheap models (Costco, Harbor Freight,
>Sam's
> > etc.) usually are gen 1 and do not work well. Gen 1 is 1960s
>technology,
> > can you imagine using a 1960s computer today? Gen 2 are a big
>improvement
> > over gen 1 but still are not real great. They are Desert Storm vintage.
> > Same deal. Could you stand to use a 1980's computer? The close up
> > resolution is good but the poor light gathering and intensification make
> > distance resolution tough. Gen 3 are daylight vision with great
>resolution.
> > They work as you might imagine night vision should. The earlier models
>are
> > not that useful. Since you are looking at a bright tv screen you can
>kiss
> > your night vision goodbye when you take the goggles off. The field of
>view
> > is very limited. The focus is adjustable, but you can only see near or
> > far... With the focus adjusted to see the ground, you can not read the
> > instrument panel or visa versa. The goggles I'm familiar with are not
>fast
> > to change the focus on. With mine you can set one eye to close focus
>and
> > one to far. This can let you see your instruments and the ground with
> > monovision. You can't do that with the single tube models. Here is a
>link
> > to the company I have dealt with for years. I've been happy with their
> > service and they have saved me a ton of money on parts and pieces to do
> > upgrades and repairs of my equipment.
> >
> > http://www.stano.night-vision.com/html/nvg.html
> >
> > It would be interesting to try flying with them as a passenger to
>explore
> > the usefulness. I'm not sure I'd survive an attempted landing wearing
>them
> > without significant training and another pilot to help fly the plane...
> >
> >
>
>
Get MSN 8 and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As long
as nobody is listening.
Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas in
that space. But, You can do it.
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Dave-
Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process were
various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various
1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor
at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need one
of those little
magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the
inevitable dropped hardware...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A - running wires!!!
"David R. Cook" wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David R. Cook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
> Listers
> Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the fuse
that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the
access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by 3&1/4.
I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to the
bolts latter anyhow.
> Thanks Dave Cook
>
.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Exporting / Importing to the States |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Brian,
The best thing to do is get the aircraft to its final location first, then
turn in the airworthiness certificate and get the aircraft de-registered
from Canada. Then you will need to get the aircraft registered in the US
and get a 'N' number. From there you contact your local FSDO or a DAR and
they will conduct the inspection and issue a new airworthiness certificate.
If you have any questions feel free to call me at (503) 681-5537.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Brian W. Truitt" <b-l-t@shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Exporting / Importing to the States
>Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 21:54:49 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian W. Truitt" <b-l-t@shaw.ca>
>
>Can anyone direct me to a site or provide information for importing a
>completed and flying RV-7 into the States? In searching the FAA site I
>can find lots for a "certified" aircraft but nothing for a "homebuilt". I
>have the Canadian exporting information which looks quite straight
>foreward. As a homebuilt I do not believe an Export C of A will be
>required. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
>Brian W. Truitt RV-7 C-GZXM
>Courtenay BC
>
>
Get MSN 8 and help protect your children with advanced parental controls.
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Night Vision |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
are they designed differently so that you can focus inside on panel then
back outside cockpit or do you need 2 crew to safely fly?
what graphics do they support of the imagery?
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
>Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 07:32:14 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
>Paul,
>
>You will probably be using the newer ANVIS 6 goggles. I have amny hours
>with them and found them delightful, especially in complarison to the
>earlier NVG 4's, and 5's. The 6's are very clear and light weight. Have
>fun
>
>Mike Robertson
>DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
> >From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
> >Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 18:36:29 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
> >
> >In about 8 weeks, I start night vision goggle training in an OH-58. I'll
> >have about 20 hours of night flight with goggles on. Not sure what
> >generation we use here in the Army. I'd be happy to provide feedback
>when
> >I
> >get through at the end of November.
> >
> >My experience with goggles are they are horrible for depth perception.
> >I've
> >driven with them. Can't imaging flying with them. Night flight is truly
> >enjoyable, and doesn't need to be ruined by looking at fuzzy green light.
> >IMHO, fly IFR altitudes (if not IFR flight plan) and enjoy the ride.
> >
> >Paul Besing
> >RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> >http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> >Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> >http://www.kitlog.com
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> > >
> > >
> > > > I was just reading the AOPA Pilot magazine article on night flight.
> >Has
> > > > anyone used night vision goggles to tell the difference between
>forest
> > > > and field at night? I am talking about surplus type of goggle like
>the
> > > > Harbor freight import.
> > > >
>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47626
> > > > Would such a goggle be of any use for improving safety of night
> >flight?
> > >
> > > I've used generation 1, 2 and 3 goggles. There are several issues with
> >them.
> > > The early models have poor resolution and light intensifying
>capability.
> > > Since you are looking at a tv screen and not at the actual image the
> > > resolution is very important. Cheap models (Costco, Harbor Freight,
> >Sam's
> > > etc.) usually are gen 1 and do not work well. Gen 1 is 1960s
> >technology,
> > > can you imagine using a 1960s computer today? Gen 2 are a big
> >improvement
> > > over gen 1 but still are not real great. They are Desert Storm
>vintage.
> > > Same deal. Could you stand to use a 1980's computer? The close up
> > > resolution is good but the poor light gathering and intensification
>make
> > > distance resolution tough. Gen 3 are daylight vision with great
> >resolution.
> > > They work as you might imagine night vision should. The earlier
>models
> >are
> > > not that useful. Since you are looking at a bright tv screen you can
> >kiss
> > > your night vision goodbye when you take the goggles off. The field of
> >view
> > > is very limited. The focus is adjustable, but you can only see near
>or
> > > far... With the focus adjusted to see the ground, you can not read
>the
> > > instrument panel or visa versa. The goggles I'm familiar with are not
> >fast
> > > to change the focus on. With mine you can set one eye to close focus
> >and
> > > one to far. This can let you see your instruments and the ground with
> > > monovision. You can't do that with the single tube models. Here is a
> >link
> > > to the company I have dealt with for years. I've been happy with
>their
> > > service and they have saved me a ton of money on parts and pieces to
>do
> > > upgrades and repairs of my equipment.
> > >
> > > http://www.stano.night-vision.com/html/nvg.html
> > >
> > > It would be interesting to try flying with them as a passenger to
> >explore
> > > the usefulness. I'm not sure I'd survive an attempted landing wearing
> >them
> > > without significant training and another pilot to help fly the
>plane...
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>Get MSN 8 and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
>
>
Get MSN 8 and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot selection (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
It's also good safe practice to turn on carb heat and heated pitot anytime
you fly into a cloud even if you are flying what we sometimes call "lite
IFR".
do not archive
Larry in Southern Indiana, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430
Digitrak
On Finish Kit and even beyond
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot selection (long)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
> >
> >Sorry to bring up an old topic that's been beat to death, but I'm
> >really stuck on this one.
> >
> >I had planned on using the Gretz pitot mount with the Dynon pitot
> >for AOA. I've since decided to use the PSS AOA so I won't need
> >Dynon's pitot.
> >
> >I've read through the archives about this topic and looked at many
> >builder's websites. It seems many are using the Gretz because of the
> >ability to install a heated pitot for IFR operations. Someone also
> >mentioned that a heated pitot is not a requirement and their is no
> >other deicing equipment on an RV. I also remember having a heated
> >pitot in the C172 I used for my IFR ticket and it didn't have any
> >other form of deicing equipment. I guess if you started getting ice
> >on the wings it would be nice to have an accurate airspeed indicator
> >so you don't stall trying to maintain altitude.
> >
> >In my case I don't plan to do any serious IFR. My airplane will be
> >technically legal for IFR ops, but that's for a "just in case"
> >scenario.
> >
> >In my case it seems to boil down to cost vs. looks vs. installation
> >complexity so Van's standard pitot seems to be the winner. If I'm
> >missing something please let me know.
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Ken
> >RV-8 wings (still!)
> >
>
> While we are not required to follow FAR 23, it certainly is worth
> considering what it says, as usually the requirements followed
> accidents. FAR 23.1323 was amended in 1991 to include:
>
> "If certification for instrument flight rules or flight in icing
> conditions is requested, each airspeed system must have a heated
> pitot tube or an equivalent means of preventing malfunction due to
> icing."
>
> If you plan to fly IFR above the freezing level, I would recommend a
> heated pitot tube.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Order of Events.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Kurt,
That order worked fine for me. The first two would almost need to be done
in that order and before the second two. Just one answer so far
Tim Bryan
RV-6 N616TB
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Order of Events....
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
Polling the masses once again.....have a few "semi-major" projects left on
my
6A. Mainly: 1. Hanging Prop
2. Baffeling
3. FAB
4. Cowl Trim/Fit/Install (Skybolt Camlocks)
My question is based on your past experience what is the best order to
complete all of these projects? Im guessing Prop, Cowl, FAB, Baffeling??? Im
at
the point in vans instructions where you are for the most part on your
own!!!
Thanks...
Kurt in OKC
6A finishing....
Do Not Archive
.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Pitot selection (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
If you plan to fly IFR above the freezing level, I would recommend a
heated pitot tube.
I would add, this would be pretty important for VFR as well. Have personal
experience.
Tim Bryan
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Pitot selection (long)
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Simmons" <ken@truckstop.com>
>
>Sorry to bring up an old topic that's been beat to death, but I'm
>really stuck on this one.
>
>I had planned on using the Gretz pitot mount with the Dynon pitot
>for AOA. I've since decided to use the PSS AOA so I won't need
>Dynon's pitot.
>
>I've read through the archives about this topic and looked at many
>builder's websites. It seems many are using the Gretz because of the
>ability to install a heated pitot for IFR operations. Someone also
>mentioned that a heated pitot is not a requirement and their is no
>other deicing equipment on an RV. I also remember having a heated
>pitot in the C172 I used for my IFR ticket and it didn't have any
>other form of deicing equipment. I guess if you started getting ice
>on the wings it would be nice to have an accurate airspeed indicator
>so you don't stall trying to maintain altitude.
>
>In my case I don't plan to do any serious IFR. My airplane will be
>technically legal for IFR ops, but that's for a "just in case"
>scenario.
>
>In my case it seems to boil down to cost vs. looks vs. installation
>complexity so Van's standard pitot seems to be the winner. If I'm
>missing something please let me know.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Ken
>RV-8 wings (still!)
>
While we are not required to follow FAR 23, it certainly is worth
considering what it says, as usually the requirements followed
accidents. FAR 23.1323 was amended in 1991 to include:
"If certification for instrument flight rules or flight in icing
conditions is requested, each airspeed system must have a heated
pitot tube or an equivalent means of preventing malfunction due to
icing."
If you plan to fly IFR above the freezing level, I would recommend a
heated pitot tube.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
.
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Archer VOR antenna and Garmin 430 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Thanks Richard.
>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
>Laird,
>
>Yes, you need either an additional antenna for the GS or a splitter to
>separate the VOR/LOC and the GS from your VOR antenna.
>
>I have a 430 and a splitter connected to a "cat's whisker" antenna atop
>my vertical stab.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>-6A finishing details
>
>Laird Owens wrote:
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>>
>> OK, so I should read the installation instructions first....but
>> they're, like 300 pages (and they're at the hangar, I'm not), so I
>> have a stupid question.
>>
>> In looking at the archives, I see people using the Archer's VOR
>> wingtip antenna for localizer and glide slope. But my new (oh, boy!)
>> 430 that I'm installing in my RV-6 has 2 bnc connectors in the back
>> of the unit, one labled NAV, and the other G/S.
>>
>> What gives. Do I need a splitter or something.
>>
>> Give me a structures problem, no sweat, but these electrons hurt my head....
>>
>> Laird
>> RV-6 SoCal
>>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I've been watching this thread to see if anyone did what I did. I'm
building an RV-6. The quickbuild fuselage kit has this small-ish
rectangular hole at the very aft that the VS spar goes down into, and the
tailwheel "spring" (steel rod) goes in the bottom of that area and was
already bolted to the bulkhead forming the fwd part of this "aft-most
compartment". That is what we are talking about, right?
I pondered for months and finally took a round rasp file land slightly
widened the hole until I could get one hand down in there - I'm 6'4 and have
hands of proportionate size.
- This is with the rudder & elevators removed and the elevator stops
removed - just the HS & VS installed.
"Eyeball engineering" tells me I haven't critically weakened the structure
by doing this.
If anyone thinks I have exceeded rational bounds, I could reduce the size of
the hole and/or install a doubler around the wider hole to restore strength,
after having done all the nut and bolt work down inside that is required.
David Carter
Nederland, Texasd
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
> The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As long
> as nobody is listening.
> Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas in
> that space. But, You can do it.
>
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 N616TB
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 05:38:39 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Hi Dave-
>
> Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process
were
> various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various
> 1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
> unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor
> at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need
one
> of those little
> magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the
> inevitable dropped hardware...
>
> >From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -6A - running wires!!!
>
> "David R. Cook" wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David R. Cook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
> >
> > Listers
> > Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the
fuse
> that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the
> access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by
3&1/4.
> I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
> bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to
the
> bolts latter anyhow.
> > Thanks Dave Cook
> >
>
>
> ..
>
>
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by:
Subject: How many Dynons are actually flyiing?
Folks,
I've seen positive reviews by a couple of people flying with Dynons and a
LOT of traffic with people that have purchased but not yet flying.
I've been flying with one and been having some apparently somewhat unique
problems. I would like to hear from folks that are actually flying and if
they have seen any issues.
I do want to point out that Dynon has been absolutely great to work with --
very responsive and helpful in trying to work out the issue and they have
shipped me two different units to try. I am absolutely sold on the unit if
we can work through the problems and have been very pleased with the
customer service and responsiveness.
Steve Harris
N144SH
RV-4 ~165 hours
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon Experience |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Steve,
Can you be more specific about your problems with the Dynon? A lot of
people would like to know. Thanks.
do not archive
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by:
>
> From: Steve Harris <harriss@esi.com>
> To: "'rv-list@matronics.com'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: How many Dynons are actually flyiing?
> Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 09:09:26 -0700
>
> Folks,
>
> I've seen positive reviews by a couple of people flying with Dynons and a
> LOT of traffic with people that have purchased but not yet flying.
>
> I've been flying with one and been having some apparently somewhat unique
> problems. I would like to hear from folks that are actually flying and
if
> they have seen any issues.
>
> I do want to point out that Dynon has been absolutely great to work
with --
> very responsive and helpful in trying to work out the issue and they have
> shipped me two different units to try. I am absolutely sold on the unit
if
> we can work through the problems and have been very pleased with the
> customer service and responsiveness.
>
> Steve Harris
> N144SH
> RV-4 ~165 hours
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
This tip from a professional airline mechanic friend who helped with my -6A.
Crazy glue the washer (if using one) to the nut and then glue (lightly) the
nut to the end of your finger to manipulate it into place and get the
threads started. Pull gently to detach nut from finger. Apply socket, etc to
tighten.
If squeamish about gluing things to your fingertips, a few turns of duct
tape or masking tape around your finger with the sticky side out will work
too.
RV-6A builders will need to learn some extra tricks and words when they deal
with the spar-gear mount bolts as they put their wings on.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>
> The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As long
> as nobody is listening.
> Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas in
> that space. But, You can do it.
>
> Tim Bryan
> RV-6 N616TB
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 05:38:39 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> Hi Dave-
>
> Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process
were
> various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various
> 1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
> unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor
> at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need
one
> of those little
> magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the
> inevitable dropped hardware...
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark -6A - running wires!!!
>
> "David R. Cook" wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David R. Cook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
> >
> > Listers
> > Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the
fuse
> that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the
> access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by
3&1/4.
> I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
> bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to
the
> bolts latter anyhow.
> > Thanks Dave Cook
> >
>
>
> .
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>Just curious, anyone tried a stall turn or tail slide?
I've done lots of stall and hammerhead turns. I try and keep just a little
positive so I may not be exactly 90 wrt the ground throughout. They work
for me.
I've never tried nor will I attempt an intentional tail slide in a (normal)
RV. With my luck, I'd nail one where I ended up with 30-40-kts reverse
airspeed before breaking over. Too much possible sudden loading on the
empennage for my comfort.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Here I thought I was the only one using this method. I have found that
getting your finger tip dirty by wiping it on the floor really helps when
it comes time to pull the nut off your finger.
At 12:17 PM 8/28/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
>This tip from a professional airline mechanic friend who helped with my -6A.
>Crazy glue the washer (if using one) to the nut and then glue (lightly) the
>nut to the end of your finger to manipulate it into place and get the
>threads started. Pull gently to detach nut from finger. Apply socket, etc to
>tighten.
>
>If squeamish about gluing things to your fingertips, a few turns of duct
>tape or masking tape around your finger with the sticky side out will work
>too.
>
>RV-6A builders will need to learn some extra tricks and words when they deal
>with the spar-gear mount bolts as they put their wings on.
>
>Jim Oke
>Winnipeg, MB
>RV-6A
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
>>
>> The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As long
>> as nobody is listening.
>> Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas in
>> that space. But, You can do it.
>>
>> Tim Bryan
>> RV-6 N616TB
>>
>>
>> -------Original Message-------
>>
>> From: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 05:38:39 AM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>>
>> Hi Dave-
>>
>> Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process
>were
>> various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus various
>> 1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
>> unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market vendor
>> at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also need
>one
>> of those little
>> magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for the
>> inevitable dropped hardware...
>>
>> From The PossumWorks in TN
>> Mark -6A - running wires!!!
>>
>> "David R. Cook" wrote:
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David R. Cook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>> >
>> > Listers
>> > Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the
>fuse
>> that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made the
>> access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by
>3&1/4.
>> I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
>> bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to
>the
>> bolts latter anyhow.
>> > Thanks Dave Cook
>> >
>>
>>
>> .
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Night Vision |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Yep, The new ones are flip up that mount to your flight helmet. The area
around the eye pieces is open so you can just look under the goggles to see
the cockpit instruments. And while the graphics are still green and black
they are pretty sharp.
Mike Robertson
>From: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
>Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 10:52:50 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>are they designed differently so that you can focus inside on panel then
>back outside cockpit or do you need 2 crew to safely fly?
>
>what graphics do they support of the imagery?
>
>
> >From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
> >Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2003 07:32:14 -0700
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Paul,
> >
> >You will probably be using the newer ANVIS 6 goggles. I have amny hours
> >with them and found them delightful, especially in complarison to the
> >earlier NVG 4's, and 5's. The 6's are very clear and light weight. Have
> >fun
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >DO NOT ARCHIVE
> >
> >
> > >From: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
> > >Date: Wed, 27 Aug 2003 18:36:29 -0500
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
> > >
> > >In about 8 weeks, I start night vision goggle training in an OH-58.
>I'll
> > >have about 20 hours of night flight with goggles on. Not sure what
> > >generation we use here in the Army. I'd be happy to provide feedback
> >when
> > >I
> > >get through at the end of November.
> > >
> > >My experience with goggles are they are horrible for depth perception.
> > >I've
> > >driven with them. Can't imaging flying with them. Night flight is
>truly
> > >enjoyable, and doesn't need to be ruined by looking at fuzzy green
>light.
> > >IMHO, fly IFR altitudes (if not IFR flight plan) and enjoy the ride.
> > >
> > >Paul Besing
> > >RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
> > >http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
> > >Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
> > >http://www.kitlog.com
> > >
> > >----- Original Message -----
> > >From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> > >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Night Vision
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > I was just reading the AOPA Pilot magazine article on night
>flight.
> > >Has
> > > > > anyone used night vision goggles to tell the difference between
> >forest
> > > > > and field at night? I am talking about surplus type of goggle like
> >the
> > > > > Harbor freight import.
> > > > >
> >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=47626
> > > > > Would such a goggle be of any use for improving safety of night
> > >flight?
> > > >
> > > > I've used generation 1, 2 and 3 goggles. There are several issues
>with
> > >them.
> > > > The early models have poor resolution and light intensifying
> >capability.
> > > > Since you are looking at a tv screen and not at the actual image the
> > > > resolution is very important. Cheap models (Costco, Harbor Freight,
> > >Sam's
> > > > etc.) usually are gen 1 and do not work well. Gen 1 is 1960s
> > >technology,
> > > > can you imagine using a 1960s computer today? Gen 2 are a big
> > >improvement
> > > > over gen 1 but still are not real great. They are Desert Storm
> >vintage.
> > > > Same deal. Could you stand to use a 1980's computer? The close up
> > > > resolution is good but the poor light gathering and intensification
> >make
> > > > distance resolution tough. Gen 3 are daylight vision with great
> > >resolution.
> > > > They work as you might imagine night vision should. The earlier
> >models
> > >are
> > > > not that useful. Since you are looking at a bright tv screen you
>can
> > >kiss
> > > > your night vision goodbye when you take the goggles off. The field
>of
> > >view
> > > > is very limited. The focus is adjustable, but you can only see near
> >or
> > > > far... With the focus adjusted to see the ground, you can not read
> >the
> > > > instrument panel or visa versa. The goggles I'm familiar with are
>not
> > >fast
> > > > to change the focus on. With mine you can set one eye to close
>focus
> > >and
> > > > one to far. This can let you see your instruments and the ground
>with
> > > > monovision. You can't do that with the single tube models. Here is
>a
> > >link
> > > > to the company I have dealt with for years. I've been happy with
> >their
> > > > service and they have saved me a ton of money on parts and pieces to
> >do
> > > > upgrades and repairs of my equipment.
> > > >
> > > > http://www.stano.night-vision.com/html/nvg.html
> > > >
> > > > It would be interesting to try flying with them as a passenger to
> > >explore
> > > > the usefulness. I'm not sure I'd survive an attempted landing
>wearing
> > >them
> > > > without significant training and another pilot to help fly the
> >plane...
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >Get MSN 8 and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
> >
> >
>
>Get MSN 8 and enjoy automatic e-mail virus protection.
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Ahha! dirty floor???! ...Scott, hang your head in shame...Tsk Tsk!
Do not archive
Jim in Kelowna The plane comes home today YEA!!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Here I thought I was the only one using this method. I have found that
> getting your finger tip dirty by wiping it on the floor really helps when
> it comes time to pull the nut off your finger.
>
>
> At 12:17 PM 8/28/03 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
> >
> >This tip from a professional airline mechanic friend who helped with
my -6A.
> >Crazy glue the washer (if using one) to the nut and then glue (lightly)
the
> >nut to the end of your finger to manipulate it into place and get the
> >threads started. Pull gently to detach nut from finger. Apply socket, etc
to
> >tighten.
> >
> >If squeamish about gluing things to your fingertips, a few turns of duct
> >tape or masking tape around your finger with the sticky side out will
work
> >too.
> >
> >RV-6A builders will need to learn some extra tricks and words when they
deal
> >with the spar-gear mount bolts as they put their wings on.
> >
> >Jim Oke
> >Winnipeg, MB
> >RV-6A
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <tim@bryantechnology.com>
> >>
> >> The dropped hardware in that area of the fuse does have a name. As
long
> >> as nobody is listening.
> >> Even with the magnet tool, it's pretty tough to get to alot of areas
in
> >> that space. But, You can do it.
> >>
> >> Tim Bryan
> >> RV-6 N616TB
> >>
> >>
> >> -------Original Message-------
> >>
> >> From: rv-list@matronics.com
> >> Date: Thursday, August 28, 2003 05:38:39 AM
> >> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Access to bolts to VS to fuse.
> >>
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
> >>
> >> Hi Dave-
> >>
> >> Another of those tools I wish I'd bought early in the building process
> >were
> >> various sized forceps- using these to hold the washers & nuts plus
various
> >> 1/4" drive extensions & universal joints will get to just about any
> >> unreachable" location. I bought a variety of them from a Fly Market
vendor
> >> at OSH last year and they have proven extremely useful. You'll also
need
> >one
> >> of those little
> >> magnets on a telescoping arm tools (does this thing have a name?!) for
the
> >> inevitable dropped hardware...
> >>
> >> From The PossumWorks in TN
> >> Mark -6A - running wires!!!
> >>
> >> "David R. Cook" wrote:
> >>
> >> > --> RV-List message posted by: "David R. Cook"
<davercook@prodigy.net>
> >> >
> >> > Listers
> >> > Stupid question 932. How do you get to the nuts on the inside of the
> >fuse
> >> that hold the bottom of the vertical stab to the fuse. I guess I made
the
> >> access hole to small to get my fist into. The cover plate is 2&1/2 by
> >3&1/4.
> >> I'm in the process of drilling the top holes but I need to snug up the
> >> bottom bolts to get the VS to lie flat. Of coarse I will need to get to
> >the
> >> bolts latter anyhow.
> >> > Thanks Dave Cook
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> .
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have sat on fingers as long as I can stand, now they are numb and I can
stand it no longer. To be clear, I fly acro ALL the time in my -4. If you
take off and land in an RV and don't go upside down, it doesn't count as RV
time. Acro is the primary reason I bought an IFR RV-4 instead of a
Twin-Comanche or Bonanza this time. I love acro and I love doing it in an
RV.
What troubles me here is the tone of this thread. Discussions of
tailslides, snap rolls, and the like have no place in the RV parlance, this
is "Indian Burial ground, Don't go anywhere near here!" These are great
little airplanes, they are NOT great aerobatic airplanes. The Vn Diagram
for an RV should be well understood and compared to the Vn diagram of a real
aerobatic airplane like an EXTRA by anyone wishing to do acro. Spent a
little time studying the diagram. Factor in, gust loads, and passengers,
because everyone, including me violates the recommended aerobatic gross
weight, and you should come away with a healthy respect for the limits of
the airframe.
I did a presentation for the Mn wing RV forum last spring called "The wing
removal lever and how not to use it." It was an exploration of the Vn
diagram. Because of the low stall speed of the RV, an RV-8 at 1550# has 18
Gs available at Vne. That is twice the failure limit of the airplane.
Remember, just because someone is doing some maneuver for a long time
without a known problem, what about several owners later when the airplane
is twenty or thirty years old? These are great airplanes, They will still
be flying when they are 50 years old just like Cessnas. When the tail comes
off, the FAA will say, "those homemade airplanes aren't safe, we need to
ground them all!"
I don't want to sound like an old woman, ( I will get heat for that) and I
am not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but aviation is a business of
respect and discipline. The costs of lessons learned is high, and I hate
reading posts about what a great guy, and great pilot "old Joe" was.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Access to bolts to VS to fuse. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>This tip from a professional airline mechanic friend who helped with
my -6A.
>Crazy glue the washer (if using one) to the nut and then glue (lightly) the
>nut to the end of your finger to manipulate it into place and get the
>treads started. Pull gently to detach nut from finger. Apply socket, etc to
>tighten
Yep! I can sure verify that sticking the washer to the nut works great!
there are many areas where this can be done to prevent four letter words!
Some examples:
---The bolts connecting the control tubes to the ailerons
" " " " " " " "
bellcranks and control sticks
" " through the rod-end bearing hinges on the rudder and
elevators. Here you can install the nut in a 3/8"
ring-wrench (the washer prevents it from falling through) and feed it to
the bolt and use
another wrench to tighten. This can be done in other
locations where your hands are just too big!
Having built a -6A, I have resorted to various tricks to get the nuts and
washers on those !%
#**! bolts that hold the undercarriage weldments to the
main spar where it is impossible to get your hand in the corners under the
gusset plates, such as gluing the nut-washer combination to slotted aluminum
strips bent to get in there!
I have also used modeling clay to hold nuts in wrenches to reach
hard-to-get-at places
Cheers!!---Henry Hore
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Tail and Wing kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: George and Mary Armstrong <armstpat@comcast.net>
RV6A empenage and wing kits for sale. All metal work finished on
empenage. Each part primed with epoxy primer prior to assembly. Thick
skins on elevators and rudder. Original .016 skins included. Excellant
workmanship. Spare partially completed empenage kit included for parts.
Wing kit has Phlogiston spars. Little work completed. Ribs polished
and fitted. Rear spar parts painted.
Selling for price of two kits $6200 FIRM.
Also have tip lights and strobes, dual landing lights, heated pitot and
internal antennas for 75% of my cost. All new in box.
Located in Half Moon Bay CA.
Bought a classic Bonanza to fly while finishing the RV. Decided flying
is more fun than building.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | kinda off topic.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Slightly off topic but used in HRII, EAA filming and photos.
My present video camcorder is on its last legs. I could use input from a
bunch of people that I have come to trust. I'll use the 'corder to shoot
from the HRII, at both day and night high school football games. Don't have
a large budget for another "toy" but I need to buy a new one. Looking for
recommendations and maybe more important data on what NOT to buy. Please
reply off list and be as educational and specific as possible. KABONG
Message 33
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| Subject: | RV-6A kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
Fellow Listers:
One of our members has a -6A kit for sale. Here are the detail.. please
contact him directly
Thanks
Doug Weiler
MN Wing
----------
I have a tail feathers mostly complete and one wing of an RV6A in the jig
ready to be closed up. "Factory spar" and
this kit was NOT pre- factory punched, before that was an option. The price
will be "right!"
Quite a few GOOD aircraft tools available to the buyer .... first..
Bill Davis Jr Grand Rapids, MN 218-326-5658
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: RV Aerobatic Speeds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Guys,
I've also been sitting on my hands while watching this thread. I too do quite
a bit of upside down work in my RV6, and will really echo what Doug is saying.
My airplane is kept at a private airstrip where an RV-4 crashed several years ago.
This plane suffered a control linkage failure, and the pilot had long bragged
about doing extreme maneuvers, and pulling what I consider extreme G's in
his -4. I don't want to re-visit the "what happened" thread, but I'm terribly
carefull in my RV.
Yes, I've explored all ends of the envelope, including flying with very little
gas, and just myself to get down somewhere close to the "aerobatic weight" (nearly
impossible). I've had my plane to +5/-3 in that scenario(wearing a chute),
but should say that I try to keep it around +4/-2 for everything. Anything
that should be done in an RV CAN be done within those limits VERY easily. What
is difficult is sustained inverted flight, not because of the plane, but because
of my seat-belts. The only way I can stay upside down for very long is
to have the lap belt so tight It's really not comfortable.
These planes are great fun for the required rolls on EVERY flight, loops, cubans,
hammerheads (if you are carefull and don't fall out of them), the occasional
spin, and a variety of other "gentelmens" aerobatics.
If you want a pitts, buy one.....they are dirt cheap for a S1S, but damned it's
fun to do a roll with someone who has never been upside down!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6, N664SB
RV6 N64YU
Rosemount, MN
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>
>I have sat on fingers as long as I can stand, now they are numb and I can
>stand it no longer. To be clear, I fly acro ALL the time in my -4. If you
>take off and land in an RV and don't go upside down, it doesn't count as RV
>time. Acro is the primary reason I bought an IFR RV-4 instead of a
>Twin-Comanche or Bonanza this time. I love acro and I love doing it in an
>RV.
>
>What troubles me here is the tone of this thread. Discussions of
>tailslides, snap rolls, and the like have no place in the RV parlance, this
>is "Indian Burial ground, Don't go anywhere near here!" These are great
>little airplanes, they are NOT great aerobatic airplanes. The Vn Diagram
>for an RV should be well understood and compared to the Vn diagram of a real
>aerobatic airplane like an EXTRA by anyone wishing to do acro. Spent a
>little time studying the diagram. Factor in, gust loads, and passengers,
>because everyone, including me violates the recommended aerobatic gross
>weight, and you should come away with a healthy respect for the limits of
>the airframe.
>
>I did a presentation for the Mn wing RV forum last spring called "The wing
>removal lever and how not to use it." It was an exploration of the Vn
>diagram. Because of the low stall speed of the RV, an RV-8 at 1550# has 18
>Gs available at Vne. That is twice the failure limit of the airplane.
>
>Remember, just because someone is doing some maneuver for a long time
>without a known problem, what about several owners later when the airplane
>is twenty or thirty years old? These are great airplanes, They will still
>be flying when they are 50 years old just like Cessnas. When the tail comes
>off, the FAA will say, "those homemade airplanes aren't safe, we need to
>ground them all!"
>
>I don't want to sound like an old woman, ( I will get heat for that) and I
>am not trying to rain on anyone's parade, but aviation is a business of
>respect and discipline. The costs of lessons learned is high, and I hate
>reading posts about what a great guy, and great pilot "old Joe" was.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Simple Carb Heat Muff |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George McNutt" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
I have just sent some pictures of a simple carb heat muff to Matronics
E-Mail List Photo Share. You can make it yourself for minimual cost. The
muff wraps around both pipes on a RV-6 Vetterman crossover exhaust and
provides a little more heat than some of the other muffs.
George McNutt
Langley B.C.
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