Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:53 AM - Re: Slobovia Outernational Airport flyin/party (Dougpsr@aol.com)
2. 06:02 AM - Plemun (John Mcmahon)
3. 06:42 AM - Re: photos of aluminum plenums (Jim Daniels)
4. 08:54 AM - Re: photos of aluminum plenums (Dan Checkoway)
5. 11:09 AM - Re: photos of aluminum plenums (Mark Phillips)
6. 11:19 AM - Re: photos of aluminum plenums (Jeff Point)
7. 11:52 AM - Re: photos of aluminum plenums (Gil Alexander)
8. 12:37 PM - Alternator (Jim and Bev Cone)
9. 01:35 PM - Re: Re: radio calls (sipherrv@juno.com)
10. 02:36 PM - Squeezer on Ebay (BillDube@killacycle.com)
11. 06:48 PM - Warnke Prop for Sale (Jim Nolan)
12. 07:05 PM - May 2003 (Larry Pardue)
13. 07:18 PM - Re: Radio Calls (Rick Galati)
14. 07:35 PM - Re: May 2003 (Jim Jewell)
15. 08:21 PM - Good deal on an engine? (Ronschreck99@aol.com)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Slobovia Outernational Airport flyin/party |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dougpsr@aol.com
Hi ya'll. Appreciate the invite. I enjoyed the last shindig and would love to
come back. Unfortunately that is the same date as the annual RV fly in at Las
Cruces, NM which several of us have already planned for....but if WX or ??
fouls that trip MS71 will be our alternate.
Thanks and hope u have a blast.
Doug Preston
RV8 N127EK
BHM
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
Dan
I have what you need,I will try to send your way later today!!
John McMahon (rv6 )
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: photos of aluminum plenums |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Daniels <jwdanie@comcast.net>
> If anybody has any photos of an aluminum plenum (dog house), can you
> please
> send them my way? I'm just trying to gather perspective (aka: steal
> ideas)
> before building mine.
Dan,
Here are a couple web sites I stashed away. I'd be interested if you
get any additional pointers. You know, this would make a great after
market item for one of our entrepreneurial builders out there.
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/5379/eng1.html
http://rv8a.tripod.com/plenum.html
Jim Daniels
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: photos of aluminum plenums |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Thanks for all the responses so far...very helpful!
Lemme ask a general question about aluminum plenums, specifically about the
air inlet area. I assume the goal is to shape the inlets so they're pretty
much exactly the size of the cowl inlets? Then use airseal fabric stuff
around the cowl inlet edge, which would slip *inside* the plenum inlets? Is
that the approach most people take? Just curious how the cowl inlets
usually seal to the plenum inlets.
Thanks again, (do not archive)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: photos of aluminum plenums
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> If anybody has any photos of an aluminum plenum (dog house), can you
please
> send them my way? I'm just trying to gather perspective (aka: steal
ideas)
> before building mine.
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: photos of aluminum plenums |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
And to thoroughly confound the issue- the inlet is essentially shaped like a
venturi, with the narrowest part typically right where the seal is at the
junction between the rear edge of the cowl inlet and plenum entrance. All
plenum designs I have seen rapidly expand in cross section aft of this point.
Is it possible this narrowest section of the "venturi" has relative lower
pressure than on the outer periphery of the inlet (basically static air at same
pressure as downstream of cylinders), suggesting that a seal placed around the
outside of the junction may in fact seal better, since it would be pressed
against the junction. Last months SA's article "Cool It" mentions 4" of water
pressure drop across cylinders for optimum cooling (150 hp, 75% power @ 8000
d.a.) which converts to .1445 p.s.i.- if the "venturi" at the opening drops more
pressure than this, should the seal in fact be around the outside of the
junction? (is that correct, POINT 1445 psi?!)
Any fluid dynamycist types wanna take a shot at this?
Mark - do not archive
> Then use airseal fabric stuff around the cowl inlet edge, which would slip
> *inside* the plenum inlets? Is that the approach most people take? Just
> curious how the cowl inlets usually seal to the plenum inlets.
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: photos of aluminum plenums |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I don't think they have to be exactly the same (rounded shape) as the
cowl inlets. Most of plenums I have seen, mine included, made the
inlets square, and it is not too difficult to seal the area with airseal
as you describe. With a conventional baffle system, you use airseal
fabric to seal the bottom and sides in much the same way, with a plenum
you are just adding the top to be sealed as well. I did it with two
pieces on each side, top and bottom. The trick, and the most difficult
part of designing/ building the plenum IMHO, is to get the inlets to
align as close as possible to the cowl inlets (assuming the cowl is fit)
as this makes it much easier to seal the inlets.
Still having trouble with my scanner, as soon as I sort it out I will
send the pics I promised last night.
Jeff Point
Dan Checkoway wrote:
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: photos of aluminum plenums |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
There is an exception to the square inlets mentioned below. However, it's
not an aluminum plenum...
The original Steve Barnhard (sp?) cowl uses a round inlet - actually a
turned aluminum piece that is held in place by a groove in the upper and
lower cowls. It is connected to the plenum with a tubular piece of rubber
(truck inner tube) clamped at both ends. The tube connects to a fiberglass
molded inlet to the plenum area.
The cowl pieces can be seen here....
http://www.rv-8.com/Cowl.htm#The%20Cowl
And I think this is the same part - just updated from Steve's.....
http://www.jamesaircraft.com/
gil in Tucson
At 01:18 PM 9/7/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>I don't think they have to be exactly the same (rounded shape) as the
>cowl inlets. Most of plenums I have seen, mine included, made the
>inlets square, and it is not too difficult to seal the area with airseal
>as you describe. With a conventional baffle system, you use airseal
>fabric to seal the bottom and sides in much the same way, with a plenum
>you are just adding the top to be sealed as well. I did it with two
>pieces on each side, top and bottom. The trick, and the most difficult
>part of designing/ building the plenum IMHO, is to get the inlets to
>align as close as possible to the cowl inlets (assuming the cowl is fit)
>as this makes it much easier to seal the inlets.
>
>Still having trouble with my scanner, as soon as I sort it out I will
>send the pics I promised last night.
>
>Jeff Point
>
>Dan Checkoway wrote:
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim and Bev Cone" <jimnbev@olypen.com>
The Pelican alternator sold by ACS is off of a Chevy Sprint
Spectrum. It is a small 65 amp alternator that is self regulating and has automatic
overheat protection that resets when an overheated condition is resolved.
I have one and it works well.
Jim Cone
3peat offender
Time: 04:37:27 AM PST US
From: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Alternator for Lycoming
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ronnie Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
Does anyone know what automotive alternator (make and model of the vehicle),
that the Lycoming alternator is copied from?
"Are you still wasting your time with spam?...
There is a solution!"
Protected by GIANT Company's Spam Inspector
The most powerful anti-spam software available.
http://www.giantcompany.com
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: re: radio calls |
--> RV-List message posted by: sipherrv@juno.com
Hi,
Normally with a tower controlled field I would call them within 10nm of
the field and tell them that you wish to wish to report initial for the
Overhead. I would tipically say something like:
"Lubbock Tower, Viper 11, ten nautical miles west of the field for
Initial Rwy 30" (assuming I had the atis and knew what the active runway
was).
Then normally tower will have you report initial (the 1-3nm call). Some
towers will just then say "Roger Viper 11 report base". Which is
clearance to initial, clearance to break and you don't need to call
initial with this clearance. The next call is the base call.
Obviously while flying from a position west of the field to set up on the
initial going west, I would fly my aircraft to an outside downwind
position, turn a 3-5nm "90 to initial" position (like a wide base), then
turn initial down the runway active runway (duty runway for our Navy
folks).
I think that everyones had had great comments on the subject. And common
sense always applies. But the overhead pattern and calls are always
easier to draw and talk about vs just text on in an email. (a picture is
definitely worth a 1000s words)
v/r
Bill Sipher
RV-4
On Sat, 06 Sep 2003 08:40:48 -0700 Phat Phil <phugoid@comcast.net>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Phat Phil <phugoid@comcast.net>
>
> I've been following this thread with great interest.
> I keep reading that you call initial 1 to 3 miles out.
> My question is: is this your first contact with the tower or do you
>
> contact them 5 to 10 miles as i think most of us do
> and inform them of your intentions?
>
> Phil
>
>
> Tom Gummo wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
> >
> >I would like to add something here.
> >
> >Even if you don't know anything about the overhead pattern, it
> should not
> >effect the way you fly your pattern. The pilot calling INITIAL at
> a
> >uncontrolled field has the responsibility to fit his plane or
> flight into
> >the other aircraft already in the pattern. At a controlled field,
> the
> >controller should be doing this.
> >
> >Knowledge is power. Now that you know a little about the pattern,
> you
> >should know where to look for this traffic. This is in case he /
> she makes
> >a mistake and breaks into you. (I would not want to die just
> because I am
> >right or have the right of way. Your point!)
> >
> >The break over the numbers only works if there is no one already
> on
> >downwind. With a plane on downwind, I would delay the break (turn
> to
> >downwind) until I knew I had proper spacing on the aircraft in
> front of me.
> >In other words, I would wait until all the downwind traffic passed
> me and
> >then I would break and follow them in.
> >
> >No radio, well we are all to look around the pattern and avoid
> aircraft that
> >don't see us.
> >
> >Have fun.
> >
> >Too bad we all can't get together for a little face to face time as
> a 15
> >minute briefing would answer just about everybody's questions.
> >
> >Again, anybody with questions can please contact me off the list
> and I will
> >do my best to answer them.
> >
> >Tom
> >t.gummo@verizon.net
> >
> >
>
>
> ================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Squeezer on Ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BillDube@killacycle.com" <BillDube@killacycle.com>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2552765392&category=31482&rd=1
Looks like a pretty good deal on a squeezer with dies.
This unit is set up for 1/4" shank dies, but I'd bet that a regular 214
style C-yoke with a 3/16" push rod would fit. Regardless, it's a heck of a
deal as it is.
Bill Dube <LED@Killacycle.com>
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Warnke Prop for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan@insightbb.com>
Listers,
I have the following items for sale. I went to a Sensenich because I fly through
rain more now.
1. Bernie Warnke 70X74 Almost Constant Speed Prop with
4 inch prop extension ( larger one ) Crush Plate, Prop bolts (7/16) and 12 inch
Spinner Kit. It's all assembled and spinner is painted white. @ 600 hrs. on
them. $882.00
Bernie's signature is still on prop. These items were made to fit the 160 hp Lycoming
0-320
2. Mark Landoll Harmonic balancer --$288.75
3. Mark Landoll Steel ring --$60.00
4. Mark Landoll Aerobatic plate for Harmonic Balancer --$15.00
* These Items were made to fit the Lycoming 0-320 flywheel.
Thanks
Jim Nolan
N444JN
do not archive
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
Listers:
Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to Michelin
Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I haven't
checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out of the
hangar just fine.
Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like an
oil change.
If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added the
little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the best
money I have ever spent.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
I too have been reading with great interest this thread about INITIALS. You are
never too old to learn. Never having done it nor realized it was a procedure
not necessarily reserved for the military (laughable in my Cessna 150) I have
been witnessing the practice for years and never put two and two together. You
see, here in St.Louis, the Air National Guard is based and routinely flies out
of Lambert Field. From the airport observation area across Lindbergh Boulevard,
I have witnessed on countless occasions a tight formation flight of of 3 or
4 F-15's returning from a training flight at relatively high speed and smartly
breaking right to a downwind, distance between planes ever increasing to maintain
equal spacing , deploying the speed brakes, gear, slowing waaaay down in
the process, blending base to final in one smooth 180 arc and landing on 12R
one after another in perfect unison. This all the while as busy airline traffic
is (was) coming and going with no noticeable disruption
of traffic. I've seen the whole sequence happen even with a distant airliner on
a long final sharing the same runway. Makes perfect sense. I'll sure be happy
when I have an airplane worthy of the procedure!
Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
---------------------------------
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Larry, Larry, Larry,
Change the air at every annual!!?
Ain't yah never herd of, "if it ain't broke don't fix er".
If you got air in them tires what don't leak out, then I'm sayin don't be
lettin any of it out no-how!
Jim in still smoking Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
Subject: RV-List: May 2003
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
>
> Listers:
>
> Until this may, I needed to add air to my tires every 2 to 3 weeks.
> Definite pain for a non-tinker oriented RVer such as myself.
>
> When I changed the tires at the annual in May this year, I went to
Michelin
> Air-Stop tubes. Since that time I have not needed to add air. I haven't
> checked the pressure since I don't want to lose air, but it pulls out of
the
> hangar just fine.
>
> Now I'm getting jazzed. Can I make it until LOE 3? Can I make it six
> months? Nine months? Maybe just change the air at every annual, like an
> oil change.
>
> If I would have had the tubes before, I probably would not have added the
> little air fill doors on the wheel pants. These tubes are some of the
best
> money I have ever spent.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Good deal on an engine? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ronschreck99@aol.com
Hi listers,
I have a very good friend who was once building a HyperBipe but gave up on
the project after buying almost everything he has to complete the airplane. He
has offered to sell me the engine and propeller but neither of us knows what
either are worth. Here is what I know about each: The engine is an IO360-B1E,
rated at 180 HP at 2700 RPM. It was overhauled a few years ago and I know it
got new rings, bearings and valves. However the engine has been sitting on his
hangar floor ever since and the plug holes and accessory holes have been open
to the air all that time. I see a slight surface rust on some of the
accessory gears but the valves and cylinders are bright and shinny. I suppose
they
have a good coating of lubricant that is doing it's job. Two bendix mags of
unknown condition are included. They are all in one piece and include all the
plug wires. They both turn freely. A new Airflow Performance fuel injector is
included as well as a used Prestolite starter and a used alternator of
unknown make.
The prop is a Hartzell CS 2-blade that was rebuilt after a prop strike
incident. The blades were bent and although the rebuild was done by a reputable
propellor shop they could not yellow tag it because the bent tips were bent
past the allowable angle to meet certification standards. It is legal to use on
an experimental aircraft. I haven't seen the prop governor but I assume
there is one somewhere in the hangar. I'll keep looking.
If the engine is suitable in other respects I assume that the rear-facing
injection can be remedied with a new sump. Given the information above I
welcome the list's comments on estimating the value of the engine and prop and
the
cost of replacing the sump. Have at it guys. Thanks for your help.
Ron Schreck
RV-8
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
PS: Anyone interested in a HyperBipe?
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|