Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:11 AM - Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? (Bob Hodgson)
2. 04:27 AM - Re: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the archives & (Dana Overall)
3. 05:05 AM - Re: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the archives & not trying to start a primer war (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 05:48 AM - JON JOHANSEN SEATS (Scott Brown)
5. 06:37 AM - Re: RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions & recovery methods (Clayton Henderson)
6. 09:32 AM - Re: More Dynon IFR (Bob)
7. 09:39 AM - Re: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale (Mike Robertson)
8. 09:45 AM - Re: Installation Requirements (Mike Robertson)
9. 10:00 AM - For Sale (John Brick)
10. 10:21 AM - Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR (Steven Eberhart)
11. 11:20 AM - O2 (Wheeler North)
12. 11:22 AM - Painting metallics (czechsix@juno.com)
13. 11:32 AM - short field (Wheeler North)
14. 11:32 AM - Re: Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR (Sam Buchanan)
15. 11:34 AM - Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge finishing") (czechsix@juno.com)
16. 11:51 AM - Installation requirements (Wheeler North)
17. 11:56 AM - paint weight and coats required (czechsix@juno.com)
18. 12:03 PM - gear leg weight RV steel rods (michael michael)
19. 12:42 PM - Dynon Report (Wheeler North)
20. 12:43 PM - New SPAM and Virus Filtering Appliance At Matronics... (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
21. 12:50 PM - Re: Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR (Stein Bruch)
22. 01:06 PM - Re: Installation Requirements (Bob)
23. 01:14 PM - Re: Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge (Scott Bilinski)
24. 01:58 PM - LASAR QUESTION (Crosley, Rich)
25. 02:17 PM - Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods (Dan Checkoway)
26. 02:24 PM - Re: Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge finishing") (Randy Lervold)
27. 02:48 PM - Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods (Scott Bilinski)
28. 02:48 PM - Re: LASAR QUESTION (Randy Lervold)
29. 02:55 PM - Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods (michael michael)
30. 04:18 PM - Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods (Stein Bruch)
31. 04:44 PM - Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods (Chris W)
32. 05:17 PM - Re: Installation Requirements (Kevin Horton)
33. 05:58 PM - Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location (David Carter)
34. 06:35 PM - Re:Short Field (Bob n' Lu Olds)
35. 06:44 PM - Re: Painting metallics (MSices)
36. 07:22 PM - Ground block location (Paul Besing)
37. 07:28 PM - Lightspeed Cross country (JVanLaak@aol.com)
38. 07:51 PM - Re: Bernie Kerr status regarding heart attack (long not RV related) (William Davis)
39. 08:33 PM - Re: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location (John Mcmahon)
40. 08:53 PM - Re: Painting metallics (BillDube@killacycle.com)
41. 09:00 PM - Whelen Strobe Power Supplies for Sale (Blake Avant)
42. 10:46 PM - Re: paint weight and coats required (Jeff Dowling)
43. 10:46 PM - Rolling Elevator leading Edges ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hodgson" <bob@hodgson252.freeserve.co.uk>
Ed,
Magneto switch?
If fuel system OK, suspect ignition. But there's 8 plugs and 2 mags, and
you're
losing all power intermittently with both mags on. Common point in ign.
system is
mag switch. May be loose connection in the switch causing trouble only in
thinner air at
altitude?? Were the successful test flights at low altitude?
FWIW - I'm no engineer but as the List Experts haven't solved this yet, I
thought I would throw this in!
Bob
UK - RV3B (canopy)
----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> Subject: RV-List: RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas?
Redux (very long)
>
> Today I loaded it up and headed out to Oceano. Stopped for 80 octane at
> SZP and continued. Over Lake Cachuma and at 6500 ft I noticed some
> roughness and about 50 rpm drop. The carb ice detector was not sounding
> (and it's not shy- it's gone off several times during runup and power
> reductions). I pulled carb heat anyway and went full throttle. The rpm
> degraded some more and then seemed to recover slightly then dropped to
> 1500 and immediately came back up to about 2500. It them proceeded to
> cycle back and forth between 2500 and 1500 continuously. I experimented
> with throttle, carb heat and mixture and was unable to find a sweet spot
> where it would run normally. The mixture control did have an effect on
> rpm as did the carb heat. If I pulled the throttle back to about 1600,
> it seemed to run OK, but more throttle put it back in cycling mode. By
> this time I was over Santa Ynez at about 4000' and, low and behold it
> seemed to run fine at any throttle setting. I landed.
>
> >
> > Carb ice is a convenient diagnosis, but I'm freaked out by the way it
> > surged to full power and back to nothing and then died only to return
> to
> > (apparently) full power after several minutes of gliding. In
> retrospect,
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the archives |
&
not trying to start a primer war
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
>
>Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of
>all
>the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make
>you
>wish you had been more anal?
>
Brett, I am going to stay away from the primer issue other than to say
anything non alclad is primed in my 7 along with a few other pieces and
parts.
Now the edge issue. My feelings are if you are going to be anal, be anal
about edge cleanup. Watch an RV fire up, it's immediate and continuous
vibration. As I can tell, most of these edges are sheared with a press.
There would be thousands of very small stress points just asking for cracks
to appear. Next time you are at SNF or Oshkosh, take a look at the various
levels of edge dressing. It is very easy to tell the care involved in
construction. Round the corners, there's a reason trees are round, and
deburr the straight edges even if it is just with a scotchbrite wheel.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Get a FREE computer virus scan online from McAfee.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the archives |
& not trying to start a primer war
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
Subject: RV-List: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the
archives & not trying to start a primer war
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski"
<brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
>
> I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a
while
> back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
>
> I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding
out
> in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
> people were planning to use as they were building.
>
> What I'd like to know is:
>
> What method/system did you use?
I primed, at a minimum, at least one of two inside surfaces where two metal
parts came together. I used DP40LF.
>
> How long has your RV been flying?
Hope to be flying in 6-8 months.
>
> What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
> burning plant, hangered/outside?
I plan to keep plane indoors in hanger and I live in southern Indiana with
moderate temps and somewhat sweltering humidity at times in the summer.
>
> How well is your primer performing?
It DPnnLF is tuff stuff and two part epoxy mix. Key is to clean and prepare
the metal before spraying on the primer. Lots of info in archives about
this process so I won't redo that.
>
> If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
Priming takes a lot of time doing it my way. If I were doing it over, I'd
identify all the parts that are not alclad finished and prime them as soon
as my parts arrived and get most of it done right up front before
fabricating to finished size.
>
> Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of
all
> the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make
you
> wish you had been more anal?
I assume you mean conscientious. I try to be very attentive to smoothing
all edges, and sharp corners and smoothing inside corners. Filing,
deburring, and the sand/emory wheeling all edges makes a nicer and safer
plane and a bit lighter too.
>
>
> Brett Morawski
> 8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
Hope this helps and contributes to our cause. Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up
TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
Message 4
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| Subject: | JON JOHANSEN SEATS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
Listers,
I have a pair of new Jon Johansen seats for sale. I will sell them for their
cost, and I will pick up the shipping. I purchased them for $450 each.
Please respond offline...Thanks!
Scott
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions & recovery |
methods
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit@eonet.net>
Charlie,
I almost did the same thing. Since then, my sequence of building
involves using the instructions as the order to do things (not always in
the best order) and the plans for what to do. When you get to the
fuselage you almost HAVE to do it this way or you will miss much.
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie &
Tupper England
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 fully punched tail left elevator instructions &
recovery methods
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
First, let me say that Van's A/C makes wonderful kits & I'm very
grateful that I don't have to mine the ore like the old days.
That said, I'm pretty frustrated with the quality of the instructions
right now.
For those who have gone before me building a 'fully prepunched' -7 tail,
I'm referring to the 11th step on page 6-10 & following steps. After
clecoing & drilling the skin to the skeleton, we are told to, and I
quote, "Disassemble the elevator. Deburr, dimple and prime the parts as
desired." Has anyone followed this direction & been able to complete the
construction of the elevator without paying for a new E606PP trim spar?
Because 3 steps later we are told to machine countersink the top of
E606PP.
Thanks,
Charlie
(For those of you who are just starting, be forewarned; this isn't the
first set of inconsistent instructions you will encounter.)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: More Dynon IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>The heading on the Dynon wanders a little bit sometimes. Not really a
>problem, a minor annoyance, I just have to becareful not to chase it. I
>havent ripped out the DG yet and in the clouds I was thinking that I may not
>get in a hurry to do that...... I am debating whether I would rather have a
>DG or a Horizon if I was going to keep the vacuum system..... Dunno......
>leaning toward the DG, but I may still take the whole vacuum system out.
Doug
What about using a GPS for a back up instead of a DG?
Bob
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
I concur!!
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale
>Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2003 10:13:27 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Work done has NO bearing on 51% rule... NONE!
>Cy Galley
>Editor, EAA Safety Programs
>cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Nate" <nateaf@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: F-1 Rocket Quickbuild for sale
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Nate" <nateaf@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Interested in a RV-4 or RV-8? The F-1 Rocket is another tandem 2-seater
>but with a lot more performance. I am selling kit #111 with the tailkit
>for
>$31,500. There is no work done so there should be no problem with the 51%
>rule. If you would like more information on the F-1, visit
>http://www.teamrocketaircraft.com/.
> >
> > Contact info: E-mail nateaf@hotmail.com
> > Phone: 310-416-1686
> > Location: Los Angeles
> >
> > Nate Elliott
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Installation Requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Jim,
You need to first look at your aircraft's Operating Limitations. If the Ops
Limits are more than a couple of years old they probably state that you need
FAA approval prior to incorporating any major changes. If they are newer
then they proobably state that you can make the major change yourself, place
the aircraft back into Phase 1 test flying for a minimum of 5 hours, and
sign that off when done. That is the bottom line. Whatever YOUR Ops Limits
state is what it is.
However, If you have the older Ops Limits you can get them amended to the
newer style by simply applying to your local FSDO for them.
If you have any questions give me a call at (503) 681-5537.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan@insightbb.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Installation Requirements
>Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 04:37:34 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan@insightbb.com>
>
>Listers,
> Is there any knowledgeable FAA type listers that can answer these
>questions for me.
>1. Can I legally install, test and fill out the evaluation sheet on an IFR
>GPS unit without FAA FSDO intervention.
>2. Can I legally install, test and sign off a Sensenich prop installation
>on my RV-4 / Lycoming engine without FAA FSDO intervention.
>3. Can I legally raise the gross weight of my aircraft, test fly, document
>V speeds and sign off the change without going thru the FAA FSDO.
> The trouble I have is, I get one answer from the FSDO and another from a
>MIDO and still another from a DAR. I learned how to read but the
>interpretation of the rules by everyone concerned are as different as the
>interpretations of the bible.
>Jim Nolan
>N444JN
>May be legal / may not be legal
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Brick" <jbrick@wolfenet.com>
Posted for Jim McGinnis, Tacoma, 253-847-3806 (no email)
New VAL COM 760 TSO $500
TERRA T.P.X. 720 $200
ICOM NAVICOM IC-A22 $250
New Davitron Model 655, 5 function indicatorOAT (deg F & deg C), Pressure
Alt, Density Alt, Voltage $200
New Mitchell Turbo (mechanical turbocharger gauge) $25
Flightcom IIGX 2-place voice activated, battery operated intercom $75
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
The Dynon unit has gotten a lot of discussion going. I am building my
RV-7A as a VFR fun machine. May be IFR later but initially VFR only.
The Dynon with the magnatometer gives me everything I need to be VFR
legal, I think. Altitude, airspeed, compass, needle and ball plus a lot
more. If I loose the dynon then I would like something that is going to
let me know when I am getting close to a stall in the landing
configuration and an indication of what direction I am flying. For
everything else I can just look outside. I know about what pattern
altitude looks like and as long as I am not stalling, exactly how fast I
am going is a luxury.
My panel is going to consist of a Dynon with magnatometer, separate
angle of attack with the indicator mounted on top of the glare shield.
The angle of attack is the backup for the airspeed indicator and a GPS
is the backup for the compass and altimeter. I could be talked into a
basic needle and ball but it currently isn't in the plans.
I don't see where I need a belt and suspenders and duct tape just to
hold up my pants :-)
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A - building ailerons
Bob wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>
>
>>The heading on the Dynon wanders a little bit sometimes. Not really a
>>problem, a minor annoyance, I just have to becareful not to chase it. I
>>havent ripped out the DG yet and in the clouds I was thinking that I may not
>>get in a hurry to do that...... I am debating whether I would rather have a
>>DG or a Horizon if I was going to keep the vacuum system..... Dunno......
>>leaning toward the DG, but I may still take the whole vacuum system out.
>
>
> Doug
>
> What about using a GPS for a back up instead of a DG?
>
> Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
not entirely sure about that, I was told as a diver that the iron in the
blood caused the O2 to want to cross the barrier and attach more than the N2
did. And CO was really interested in crossing and attaching permanently to
the iron molecule thereby making it useless to transport O2.
But I qualify that I are not an expert.
do not archive
Time: 05:11:56 AM PST US
From: Robert Miller <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Molecules
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Miller <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
Thought I'd reply to this (just for fun...)
> your lungs are permeable to both O2
> and N2, but more so with O2.
>
I don't know that this is true. The partial pressure of atmospheric gases
crossing alveolar membranes remains proportional.
> Avagadro's Law states that all gas molucules not involved in a chemical
> reaction will demand the same volume of space per molecule at equal
> temps/pressures, therefore appropriately contributing their portion of
> partial pressure. This should include while they are being crammed
through
a
> leak. It doesn't matter what type of gas molecule it is.
>
>
Agreed.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Painting metallics |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the flakes to lay
down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my plane is a single-stage
silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the leading edges of
the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed was the empennage
leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint guy, I sprayed two coats--the
first coat was across (perpendicular to) the leading edge, wait 10 mins
for it to tack up, and the second coat was along the leading edge (i.e. a 90
degree cross coat to the first coat). This was on the empennage with the parts
hanging in the booth LE down. Great results.
Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that will get
covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage except the
parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look weird....kinda
splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on a vertical surface
helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity than on a horizontal
surface where they seem to just lay as the fell? Anybody with metallic painting
experience that can offer some insight or suggestions? I still need to
do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
All right,
I'll bite, why do you need spoilers or a CS prop to get into short fields?
The RV's flown behind the power curve can achieve incredible angles/rates of
descent, why do you need more?
What's needed is more slow flight practice, not more parts that can fail.
That said, I have never flown the 9/10 type wing so I can't speak for its
abilities.
do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Steven Eberhart wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
>
> The Dynon unit has gotten a lot of discussion going. I am building my
> RV-7A as a VFR fun machine. May be IFR later but initially VFR only.
> The Dynon with the magnatometer gives me everything I need to be VFR
> legal, I think. Altitude, airspeed, compass, needle and ball plus a lot
> more. If I loose the dynon then I would like something that is going to
> let me know when I am getting close to a stall in the landing
> configuration and an indication of what direction I am flying. For
> everything else I can just look outside. I know about what pattern
> altitude looks like and as long as I am not stalling, exactly how fast I
> am going is a luxury.
>
> My panel is going to consist of a Dynon with magnatometer, separate
> angle of attack with the indicator mounted on top of the glare shield.
> The angle of attack is the backup for the airspeed indicator and a GPS
> is the backup for the compass and altimeter. I could be talked into a
> basic needle and ball but it currently isn't in the plans.
>
> I don't see where I need a belt and suspenders and duct tape just to
> hold up my pants :-)
>
> Steve Eberhart
> RV-7A - building ailerons
Steve, add the Rocky Mountain uMonitor for engine instruments and you
will have everything you need for **daytime VFR** in two instruments. A
GPS will provide everything you need for Dynon backup.
Cool!
Wait until you hear the comments at pancake breakfasts when they see
your empty panel.... ;-)
Sam Buchanan (Dynon arriving in a couple of hours)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge finishing") |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Hi Brett,
I have never added to the primer wars before but I have been a victim of some of
the misguidance from the List (shame on me). I can't answer all your specific
questions because I'm not flying yet, but I am painting, and having done plenty
of research for painting I can offer a bit of insight on what I've learned
about primers FWIW to those who are just getting started (and how I would do
it over if I had the opportunity). All this information about primers is available
by talking to paint companies (Dupont, Sherwin Willims, PPG, etc) or reading
their spec sheets on the internet. Problem is most of us don't do that until
we're at the finishing end of the project, so a lot of interior primer decisions
are made based on hearsay or what somebody else used.
I used a self-etching primer on all interior areas of my airplane because that's
what "worked" for many others on the RV List and it was easy and inexpensive.
Based on what I've learned since then, I think it's mostly a waste of time
and money and just adds weight for a very marginal corrosion protection benefit.
The main purpose of self-etching primers is to clean (etch) the metal really
well for a good "bite" over which you must paint a sealing primer (usually
an epoxy primer) if you want to provide real corrosion protection. The epoxy
primer will seal out moisture and salts and other nasties that try to attack the
aluminum. The self-etching primers (any brand that I'm aware of) are NOT sealing
primers...this is pretty obvious from reading the data sheets. In fact
the Sherwin Williams self-etching primer says to recoat the product with a sealer
within 4 hours if you want it to do any good, otherwise you must reprime
with self-etching before sealing with a topcoat. If anyone is aware of a spec
sheet for a self-etching primer that specifically calls out good stand-alone
corrosion resistance *without recoating using a sealer* I would sure like to know
about it (and would recommend using such a product if it existed). There
are some epoxy primers that are DTM (direct-to-metal) which don't require a self-etching
primer underneath. If you MUST coat everything with primer and you
only want one coat, I'd use an epoxy DTM if I had to do it over. Main disadvantages
to this is cost and weight...the Sherwin Williams epoxy DTM primer I'm
using on the outside of the airplane is 3-4 times the cost of the self-etching
primer, and it also goes on a bit thicker (and I think you get what you pay
for in terms of corrosion resistance).
All that said...if I *really* had to do it over...I would hit the rivet seams with
epoxy DTM primer (any leading brand), leave the rest of the interior plain
ol' alcad, and put it together. Lots of spam cans flying around with plain unprimed
alclad interiors that were built 50 years ago and are still airworthy.
Most serious corrosion you see is in joints where moisture and dirt get stuck
and attack the metal (hence the benefit of epoxy DTM primer in these areas)...a
*very light* surface oxidation on alclad is doesn't do any structural harm
and is common on interior skins of aformentioned spam. If I lived in a really
corrosive environment (i.e. near saltwater) I would etch and alodine the interior
before priming the joints. Etch/Alodine adds no weight and offers good
surface corrosion protection. If I were building a seaplane and wanted the absolute
best corrosion protection at minimum weight and no expenses spared, I would
etch, alodine and then use epoxy DTM sealing primer over the entire interior
surface. That's about as good as it gets from my research.
Humbled by painting,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D still stuck in painting hell...
From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
Subject: RV-List: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the archives
& not trying to start a primer war
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a while
back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding out
in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
people were planning to use as they were building.
What I'd like to know is:
What method/system did you use?
How long has your RV been flying?
What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
burning plant, hangered/outside?
How well is your primer performing?
If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of all
the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make you
wish you had been more anal?
Brett Morawski
8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 16
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| Subject: | Installation requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
The requirement for FAA FSDO involvment depends entirely upon your operating
limitations.
The changes you suggested are probably going to be considered major
alterations by most FSDOs so your limitations may call for either 5 hours
fly off with log book entry or they may call for a reissue of the special
airworthiness cert operating limitations to include the changes. If the
latter, have your cert operating limits updated to include the 5 hour fly
off version.
In any event it doesn't matter what interpretations you hear about, it only
matters that you follow the interpretation of the FAA entity you are doing
business with. These changes should be able to be handled by your local FSDO
so ask them what they want, before you make the changes.
W
Message 17
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| Subject: | paint weight and coats required |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
I thought I'd offer some insight for those of you who are interested in saving
weight on your paint job. I have learned (again, the hard way) that for a given
color, certain paint brands cover (or "hide") better than others, and from
a weight/time/money standpoint, obviously the fewer coats it takes to cover the
plane the better. I knew before I started painting that some colors tend to
need more coats than others....for example I've heard that yellow airplanes tend
to be a bit heavier (or is this hearsay??) due to more coats needed.
Anyway my paint scheme (T-6A JPATS in USAF markings) is mostly blue and white with
red stripe. I am using Sherwin Williams Genesis series which is an acrylic
urethane (designed to replace the Sunfire acrylic urethane series). I picked
the Genesis paint over DuPont Imron 5000 (the two offerings from my local paint
shop) because it is a bit less expensive and easier to buff out any small
flaws. Being a novice painter I thought this was a good thing. But the downside
I've discovered is that the single-stage dark blue color that I'm using requires
at least 3 wet coats to get full color coverage. This is over a grey primer,
and I might get by with only two coats using a black or dark blue tinted
primer. Anyway it's a real bummer because it takes more time and most of all
adds WEIGHT. I've tried to keep my airplane light so this is discouraging.
Several people I've talked to who've used dark blue DuPont Imron or PPG Concept
have said they only needed 1-2 coats. Dave Wilson for example (who's nice
USAF-themed red/white/blue RV-8 was featured a few weeks ago in RV of the Week)
told me he only needed a single coat of each color, with PPG Concept). If
I had known this, I'd have used Imron or Concept instead of Genesis just for weight
savings, and ironically, might even save money since less paint is required
(even though Imron is more expensive than Genesis).
The twist according to local painters I've talked to is that while this is true
for dark blue, it may be just the opposite for a different color. For example,
I was told that red Imron doesn't cover as well as red Genesis. Ah, too bad
my whole airplane isn't red instead of just the stripe : )
The one and only advantage to using 3 coats of dark blue Genesis is that it does
have great "depth"....a really nice wet look with a single-stage paint that
if buffed out would probably rival a 2-stage (clearcoat). But the reason I would
not clearcoat an airplane--or use dark blue Genesis again--is because IMHO
the weight gain and expense and time to apply is not worth the slightly nicer
looks you get compared to using minimal coats of a good-hiding single-stage paint.
Why didn't somebody tell me all this before I started? : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting....crying....painting....whining...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 18
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| Subject: | gear leg weight RV steel rods |
--> RV-List message posted by: michael michael <top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca>
Dear fellow RV builders.
I dont have the Fues kit yet. I`m working on the wing. I was wondering if anyone
out there knows the weight of the landing gear legs. Just the steel rods themselves
with no extras....I looked in the archives & couldnt find anything about
this, just listings for CG related stuff.
thanks
Michael
RV-7
---------------------------------
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Folks,
I have two things to report.
First, the AOA indicator correctly indicates a stall when nose down inverted
in a split S. Its kinda cool because the plane falls upwards then falls down
and starts flying again. I didn't do this more than once as I don't know
that this manuvere is not the safest one as it could be how one gets into an
inverted flat spin. But the AOA was right on as it didn't stall until in the
red. Its also kinda cool to be pointed almost straight down inverted and be
just above stall speed hanging there for a few moments.
Second thing, I finally had the time to move the compass module to a
location in the right wing where the landing light would go if one were
there. It has been a real excercise to find a location that is more than 12"
away from any wire or iron in this plane.
Getting the angles right was also a bear. Aluminum was too flimsy and
changed as one tightened things, so I used two peices of 2"x5"x3/4" spruce.
The bottom peice I used to establish the longitudinal axis, and the top
peice established the lateral axis. It was very difficult to get both axis
sanded into one piece. The top piece then has four SS flush machine screws
sticking up threw it before being bonded to the bottom peice. (Use a magnet
to test your SS hardware as I found some SS hardware that was magnetic) The
assembly was then bonded to the inside skin just aft of the leading edge.
This got it within 0.3deg on both axis, and I final trimed it with mylar
tape shims.
The module is then held in place with the 1" nylon standoff type nuts found
in electronic supply stores as they are very easy to get to inside that dark
hole. I also found a 9 pin RS232 type connector made out of plastic at
frys. Its the type that traps and wedges the wires, IDC-9F-Blue female Frys
# 1655696. I then used nylon screws to attach it. This type of connector has
no support for the wires so be sure to secure it with one of the mounting
nuts for the unit.
I didn't have time to test fly it or calibrate it with a compass rose, but I
did recalibrate it to the steam compass and current inclination for my
airport and it seemed to be right on for the four major points.
W
Message 20
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| Subject: | New SPAM and Virus Filtering Appliance At Matronics... |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Dear Listers,
I will be installing a new SPAM and virus blocking appliance this
evening or tomorrow. The installation will involve some changes
in the Matronics DNS MX records, and will impact how incoming
email is handled. While I expect these changes to be transparent
to all of the List subscribers, things might go differently... ;-)
The Lists get bombarded with tons of SPAM messages and viruses
each day and fortunately my custom filters have been extremely
effective at filtering most of this from redistribution. Its
time to move to the next level of technology, however, and this
SPAM and Virus filtering appliance seems like an excellent
solution.
I will post a follow up message later in the week when things
have stabilized and I have some filter statistics to share.
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin.
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 21
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| Subject: | Dynon for VFR panel, was: More Dynon IFR |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
AMEN Guys!
There are actually people doing just that. My current project is just about
as minimal as you can get. Here's my panel:
Dynon Efis
Garmin 196
IK-2000 Engine Monitor
UPSAT TXPDR
ICOM Radio
It's probably the most bare RV6 panel I've ever seen, but it should be
simple, light, and FAST! Oops, almost forgot to mention, my "filler" on the
right side of the panel is a flush mounted map box, but nothing else!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Steve, add the Rocky Mountain uMonitor for engine instruments and you
will have everything you need for **daytime VFR** in two instruments. A
GPS will provide everything you need for Dynon backup.
Cool!
Wait until you hear the comments at pancake breakfasts when they see
your empty panel.... ;-)
Sam Buchanan (Dynon arriving in a couple of hours)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Installation Requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>2. Can I legally install, test and sign off a Sensenich prop installation
>on my RV-4 / Lycoming engine without FAA FSDO intervention.
Check your operating limitations that the FAA gives you when they sign off
the A/C. Mine state any major mods (this includes prop), I have to
document in the A/C log and return to the "original" test area, as outline
in the operating limitations and fly 5 test hours and document the results.
>3. Can I legally raise the gross weight of my aircraft, test fly, document
>V speeds and sign off the change without going thru the FAA FSDO.
If you look hard enough, you will find someone who will give you the answer
that you want. IMO, the answer is no. This is a really complicated
area. My FSDO inspector would not allow me to increase my gross weight
above the stated gross weight in the builders manual. I pointed out that
others had done so with no problems. He asked me if I thought I was
smarter than the designer (Van), did I have any engineering evaluations to
support my request? Then he told me, that in a previous life he had been
an A/C insurance accident investigator. His job was to find a reason why
the insurance company did not have to pay (violations of the FAR, no
medical, A/C maintenance problems etc.). He called Vans aircraft asking
them for a letter that stated the A/C could be safely flown at a higher
gross weight, Van flatly refused to issue a letter. He told me that in his
opinion, changing the gross weight would be a real insurance debate, but
only after the accident, not to mention lawsuits from the injured
parties. At this time I read between the lines, If I wanted my aircraft to
get signed off, I would keep the designed gross weight, and he pointed out
that it is difficult to establish the exact weight of an aircraft after a
crash. Of course there are other ways around the gross weight problem
without documenting it. NOTE: he never told me I could fly above gross
weight.
> The trouble I have is, I get one answer from the FSDO and another from
> a MIDO and still another from a DAR. I learned how to read but the
> interpretation of the rules by everyone concerned are as different as the
> interpretations of the bible.
You can do anything you want until you get caught and have to pay the
consequences. As my Uncle who was an Air Force Flight Safety Officer told
me when I was complaining about the FAA Regs "The Regs are written in BLOOD!"
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge |
finishing")
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I talked to vans a while back and one of the guys there mentioned just
using the selfetching primer with the top coat, keeps things really light
this way. Reading about all this protection, isnt that what the top coat is
for?
At 06:33 PM 9/15/03 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Hi Brett,
>
>I have never added to the primer wars before but I have been a victim of
>some of the misguidance from the List (shame on me). I can't answer all
>your specific questions because I'm not flying yet, but I am painting, and
>having done plenty of research for painting I can offer a bit of insight on
>what I've learned about primers FWIW to those who are just getting started
>(and how I would do it over if I had the opportunity). All this information
>about primers is available by talking to paint companies (Dupont, Sherwin
>Willims, PPG, etc) or reading their spec sheets on the internet. Problem is
>most of us don't do that until we're at the finishing end of the project, so
>a lot of interior primer decisions are made based on hearsay or what
>somebody else used.
>
>I used a self-etching primer on all interior areas of my airplane because
>that's what "worked" for many others on the RV List and it was easy and
>inexpensive. Based on what I've learned since then, I think it's mostly a
>waste of time and money and just adds weight for a very marginal corrosion
>protection benefit. The main purpose of self-etching primers is to clean
>(etch) the metal really well for a good "bite" over which you must paint a
>sealing primer (usually an epoxy primer) if you want to provide real
>corrosion protection. The epoxy primer will seal out moisture and salts and
>other nasties that try to attack the aluminum. The self-etching primers
>(any brand that I'm aware of) are NOT sealing primers...this is pretty
>obvious from reading the data sheets. In fact the Sherwin Williams
>self-etching primer says to recoat the product with a sealer within 4 hours
>if you want it to do any good, otherwise you must reprime with self-etching
>before sealing with a topcoat. If!
> anyone is aware of a spec sheet for a self-etching primer that specifically
>calls out good stand-alone corrosion resistance *without recoating using a
>sealer* I would sure like to know about it (and would recommend using such a
>product if it existed). There are some epoxy primers that are DTM
>(direct-to-metal) which don't require a self-etching primer underneath. If
>you MUST coat everything with primer and you only want one coat, I'd use an
>epoxy DTM if I had to do it over. Main disadvantages to this is cost and
>weight...the Sherwin Williams epoxy DTM primer I'm using on the outside of
>the airplane is 3-4 times the cost of the self-etching primer, and it also
>goes on a bit thicker (and I think you get what you pay for in terms of
>corrosion resistance).
>
>All that said...if I *really* had to do it over...I would hit the rivet
>seams with epoxy DTM primer (any leading brand), leave the rest of the
>interior plain ol' alcad, and put it together. Lots of spam cans flying
>around with plain unprimed alclad interiors that were built 50 years ago and
>are still airworthy. Most serious corrosion you see is in joints where
>moisture and dirt get stuck and attack the metal (hence the benefit of epoxy
>DTM primer in these areas)...a *very light* surface oxidation on alclad is
>doesn't do any structural harm and is common on interior skins of
>aformentioned spam. If I lived in a really corrosive environment (i.e. near
>saltwater) I would etch and alodine the interior before priming the joints.
>Etch/Alodine adds no weight and offers good surface corrosion protection.
>If I were building a seaplane and wanted the absolute best corrosion
>protection at minimum weight and no expenses spared, I would etch, alodine
>and then use epoxy DTM sealing pr!
>imer over the entire interior surface. That's about as good as it gets from
>my research.
>
>Humbled by painting,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D still stuck in painting hell...
>
>
>From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the
>archives
>& not trying to start a primer war
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski"
><brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
>
>I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a while
>back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
>
>I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding out
>in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
>people were planning to use as they were building.
>
>What I'd like to know is:
>
> What method/system did you use?
>
> How long has your RV been flying?
>
> What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
>burning plant, hangered/outside?
>
> How well is your primer performing?
>
> If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
>
>Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of all
>the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make you
>wish you had been more anal?
>
>
>Brett Morawski
>8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
>
>The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
>Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
The Lasar ignition requires a RPM input. Does the Van's tach work with the
Lasar system directly or is some modification required?
Rich Crosley, RV-8
Palmdale, CA
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
On the RV-7 (we're talkin' tailwheel here), I'd estimate each leg to be at
least 15-20 pounds. Sorry I don't have an exact figure. I'll bet if you
call or email Van's they could tell you exactly.
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "michael michael" <top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca>
Subject: RV-List: gear leg weight RV steel rods
> --> RV-List message posted by: michael michael <top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca>
>
> Dear fellow RV builders.
>
> I dont have the Fues kit yet. I`m working on the wing. I was wondering if
anyone out there knows the weight of the landing gear legs. Just the steel
rods themselves with no extras....I looked in the archives & couldnt find
anything about this, just listings for CG related stuff.
>
> thanks
> Michael
>
> RV-7
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge finishing") |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
That's what I did and it is working just fine... PPG DX1791 wash primer
under DCC Concept. After 3 years and 350 hrs I have no adhesion problems at
all. See www.rv-8.com/Paint.htm for the materials and techniques I used.
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Primer Selection (was "Primer performance & edge
finishing")
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> I talked to vans a while back and one of the guys there mentioned just
> using the selfetching primer with the top coat, keeps things really light
> this way. Reading about all this protection, isnt that what the top coat
is
> for?
>
>
> At 06:33 PM 9/15/03 +0000, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >
> >
> >Hi Brett,
> >
> >I have never added to the primer wars before but I have been a victim of
> >some of the misguidance from the List (shame on me). I can't answer all
> >your specific questions because I'm not flying yet, but I am painting,
and
> >having done plenty of research for painting I can offer a bit of insight
on
> >what I've learned about primers FWIW to those who are just getting
started
> >(and how I would do it over if I had the opportunity). All this
information
> >about primers is available by talking to paint companies (Dupont, Sherwin
> >Willims, PPG, etc) or reading their spec sheets on the internet. Problem
is
> >most of us don't do that until we're at the finishing end of the project,
so
> >a lot of interior primer decisions are made based on hearsay or what
> >somebody else used.
> >
> >I used a self-etching primer on all interior areas of my airplane because
> >that's what "worked" for many others on the RV List and it was easy and
> >inexpensive. Based on what I've learned since then, I think it's mostly
a
> >waste of time and money and just adds weight for a very marginal
corrosion
> >protection benefit. The main purpose of self-etching primers is to clean
> >(etch) the metal really well for a good "bite" over which you must paint
a
> >sealing primer (usually an epoxy primer) if you want to provide real
> >corrosion protection. The epoxy primer will seal out moisture and salts
and
> >other nasties that try to attack the aluminum. The self-etching primers
> >(any brand that I'm aware of) are NOT sealing primers...this is pretty
> >obvious from reading the data sheets. In fact the Sherwin Williams
> >self-etching primer says to recoat the product with a sealer within 4
hours
> >if you want it to do any good, otherwise you must reprime with
self-etching
> >before sealing with a topcoat. If!
> > anyone is aware of a spec sheet for a self-etching primer that
specifically
> >calls out good stand-alone corrosion resistance *without recoating using
a
> >sealer* I would sure like to know about it (and would recommend using
such a
> >product if it existed). There are some epoxy primers that are DTM
> >(direct-to-metal) which don't require a self-etching primer underneath.
If
> >you MUST coat everything with primer and you only want one coat, I'd use
an
> >epoxy DTM if I had to do it over. Main disadvantages to this is cost and
> >weight...the Sherwin Williams epoxy DTM primer I'm using on the outside
of
> >the airplane is 3-4 times the cost of the self-etching primer, and it
also
> >goes on a bit thicker (and I think you get what you pay for in terms of
> >corrosion resistance).
> >
> >All that said...if I *really* had to do it over...I would hit the rivet
> >seams with epoxy DTM primer (any leading brand), leave the rest of the
> >interior plain ol' alcad, and put it together. Lots of spam cans flying
> >around with plain unprimed alclad interiors that were built 50 years ago
and
> >are still airworthy. Most serious corrosion you see is in joints where
> >moisture and dirt get stuck and attack the metal (hence the benefit of
epoxy
> >DTM primer in these areas)...a *very light* surface oxidation on alclad
is
> >doesn't do any structural harm and is common on interior skins of
> >aformentioned spam. If I lived in a really corrosive environment (i.e.
near
> >saltwater) I would etch and alodine the interior before priming the
joints.
> >Etch/Alodine adds no weight and offers good surface corrosion protection.
> >If I were building a seaplane and wanted the absolute best corrosion
> >protection at minimum weight and no expenses spared, I would etch,
alodine
> >and then use epoxy DTM sealing pr!
> >imer over the entire interior surface. That's about as good as it gets
from
> >my research.
> >
> >Humbled by painting,
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D still stuck in painting hell...
> >
> >
> >From: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Primer performance & edge finishing - Yes I checked the
> >archives
> >& not trying to start a primer war
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski"
> ><brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
> >
> >I researched all the primer issues I could find and made my decision a
while
> >back but I thought it was worth checking back one more time.
> >
> >I'm curious about how well all the different primer methods are holding
out
> >in the real world. Most of the responses in the archives deal with what
> >people were planning to use as they were building.
> >
> >What I'd like to know is:
> >
> > What method/system did you use?
> >
> > How long has your RV been flying?
> >
> > What part of the world you're in - near salt/fresh water/next to a coal
> >burning plant, hangered/outside?
> >
> > How well is your primer performing?
> >
> > If you had to do it over what would you do differently?
> >
> >Also, how anal were you in finishing/deburring/rounding off the edges of
all
> >the ribs, spars and skins and have you had any cracking issues that make
you
> >wish you had been more anal?
> >
> >
> >Brett Morawski
> >8 (8A?) emp ready to prime, wing ordered
> >
> >The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> >Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
If your looking to save weight (17lbs) on the gear legs you can always try
Grove.
http://www.groveaircraft.com/
Not sure what RV models he has gear for, but I am sure for the right price
he will make anything you want.
At 02:15 PM 9/15/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>On the RV-7 (we're talkin' tailwheel here), I'd estimate each leg to be at
>least 15-20 pounds. Sorry I don't have an exact figure. I'll bet if you
>call or email Van's they could tell you exactly.
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "michael michael" <top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: gear leg weight RV steel rods
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: michael michael <top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca>
>>
>> Dear fellow RV builders.
>>
>> I dont have the Fues kit yet. I`m working on the wing. I was wondering if
>anyone out there knows the weight of the landing gear legs. Just the steel
>rods themselves with no extras....I looked in the archives & couldnt find
>anything about this, just listings for CG related stuff.
>>
>> thanks
>> Michael
>>
>> RV-7
>>
>>
>> ---------------------------------
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: LASAR QUESTION |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Van's tach uses input from a mechanical transducer connected to the tach
drive -- doesn't take input from the LASAR.
Randy Lervold
RV-8, 355 hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Subject: RV-List: LASAR QUESTION
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
<RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
>
> The Lasar ignition requires a RPM input. Does the Van's tach work with
the
> Lasar system directly or is some modification required?
>
> Rich Crosley, RV-8
> Palmdale, CA
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods |
--> RV-List message posted by: michael michael <top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca>
Thats what i did first(forgot to mention it) I called Vans. They didnt have that
info easily on hand.Told them no prob I`d look on here. I was wondering what
those steel rods added to the weight of the plane? Seeing as the RV-8 has alternative
alum gear legs. I wanted to see what RV-7 & probably everyone elses gear
legs weighed
Thanks
Michael
Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
On the RV-7 (we're talkin' tailwheel here), I'd estimate each leg to be at
least 15-20 pounds. Sorry I don't have an exact figure. I'll bet if you
call or email Van's they could tell you exactly.
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "michael michael"
Subject: RV-List: gear leg weight RV steel rods
> --> RV-List message posted by: michael michael
>
> Dear fellow RV builders.
>
> I dont have the Fues kit yet. I`m working on the wing. I was wondering if
anyone out there knows the weight of the landing gear legs. Just the steel
rods themselves with no extras....I looked in the archives & couldnt find
anything about this, just listings for CG related stuff.
>
> thanks
> Michael
>
> RV-7
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | gear leg weight RV steel rods |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Michael,
Keep in mind the taildragger -6's & -7's are not overly nose heavy to begin
with and depending on your engine/prop combo, they can end up being a bit
piggy on the tail.
Just something to keep in mind. If I were trying to shave weight (and I
always am), I'd try to trim the fat from the rear end(aren't we all)!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of michael michael
Subject: Re: RV-List: gear leg weight RV steel rods
--> RV-List message posted by: michael michael <top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca>
Thats what i did first(forgot to mention it) I called Vans. They didnt have
that info easily on hand.Told them no prob I`d look on here. I was wondering
what those steel rods added to the weight of the plane? Seeing as the RV-8
has alternative alum gear legs. I wanted to see what RV-7 & probably
everyone elses gear legs weighed
Thanks
Michael
Dan Checkoway <dan@rvproject.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
On the RV-7 (we're talkin' tailwheel here), I'd estimate each leg to be at
least 15-20 pounds. Sorry I don't have an exact figure. I'll bet if you
call or email Van's they could tell you exactly.
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "michael michael"
To:
Subject: RV-List: gear leg weight RV steel rods
> --> RV-List message posted by: michael michael
>
> Dear fellow RV builders.
>
> I dont have the Fues kit yet. I`m working on the wing. I was wondering if
anyone out there knows the weight of the landing gear legs. Just the steel
rods themselves with no extras....I looked in the archives & couldnt find
anything about this, just listings for CG related stuff.
>
> thanks
> Michael
>
> RV-7
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: gear leg weight RV steel rods |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
Just for fun I drew up the gear leg from the RV-6 Preview plans dwg # 45 dated
3/22/99. According to my CAD software (SolidWorks 2001 Plus) There are 78.14
cubic inches of 4140 steel in that gear leg. I don't have a density for 4140
but I generally use .283 lb/in
3 for all steel alloys and that makes it 22.11 lbs.
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Installation Requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>
>>3. Can I legally raise the gross weight of my aircraft, test fly, document
>>V speeds and sign off the change without going thru the FAA FSDO.
>
>If you look hard enough, you will find someone who will give you the answer
>that you want. IMO, the answer is no. This is a really complicated
>area. My FSDO inspector would not allow me to increase my gross weight
>above the stated gross weight in the builders manual. I pointed out that
>others had done so with no problems. He asked me if I thought I was
>smarter than the designer (Van), did I have any engineering evaluations to
>support my request? Then he told me, that in a previous life he had been
>an A/C insurance accident investigator. His job was to find a reason why
>the insurance company did not have to pay (violations of the FAR, no
>medical, A/C maintenance problems etc.). He called Vans aircraft asking
>them for a letter that stated the A/C could be safely flown at a higher
>gross weight, Van flatly refused to issue a letter. He told me that in his
>opinion, changing the gross weight would be a real insurance debate, but
>only after the accident, not to mention lawsuits from the injured
>parties. At this time I read between the lines, If I wanted my aircraft to
>get signed off, I would keep the designed gross weight, and he pointed out
>that it is difficult to establish the exact weight of an aircraft after a
>crash. Of course there are other ways around the gross weight problem
>without documenting it. NOTE: he never told me I could fly above gross
>weight.
>
How does the FSDO decide what gross weight to accept if you design an
aircraft yourself?
If you manage to talk a FSDO into accepting the weight increase, I'm
not sure where insurance enters into it. Does your insurance policy
say you have to abide by Van's recommended gross weight?
But if the insurance people manage to figure out you were flying at a
weight higher than is in your limitations, then that gives them a
golden reason to deny coverage. I wouldn't say it was that hard to
figure out how heavy you were in many cases. The empty weight is
recorded. The weights of the people can probably be established
fairly closely. Luggage etc in the crash can be weighed, unless
there is a fire. If you filled the plane up before the flight the
fuel on board can be estimated fairly closely based on time airborne
before the crash.
If I determined that I was going to fly at XXXX lbs, I would rather
have that value in the operating limitations than not.
I would have thought a weight increase was simply a major mod. Once
you have the operating limitations that allow you to do major mods
without FSDO approval, you could go back into the test phase, test at
the higher gross weight, and change the operating limitations. But
I'm no expert in the FARs, so my opinion isn't worth much.
Just remember that the laws of physics haven't changed just because
you increased the allowable gross weight. If you increase the weight
you need to fly more conservatively. I would not increase the
landing weight above Van's number. If I was above Van's recommended
weight I would only takeoff from a smooth, hard surface runway.
Reduce the allowable g when over Van's recommended weight to keep the
total lift required the same. Reduce VNO when over Van's recommended
weight. Realize that some of the operating speeds need to be
increased if you increase the weight - speed for best glide, speed
for best angle of climb, speed for best rate of climb and desired
final approach speed will all increase. Depending on the results of
your handling testing, you may need to tweak the forward and aft CG
limits when at the higher weight.
Fly safe,
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Fwd'd from Aeroelectric List for RV-specific response.
DC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
<bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
>
> At 12:18 PM 9/13/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WHigg1170@aol.com
> >
> >Hello I have a question on the B&C 24 terminal ground block location. I
don't
> >have the engine or mount and I want to place the ground block on the
cabin
> >side of the firewall but don't know were to put it so it won't be in the
> >way and
> >also still use vans #2 cables that came with the wiring harness kit.
Thanks
> >
> >Bill
> >RV-6
>
> Can any RV builders help Bill out with this?
>
> Bob . . .
>
>
Message 34
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks@aol.com>
Just HOW short a field are you talking about?? I fly our RV-4(150 HP) from our
1100 ft. grass strip @460 MSL in summer or winter.
I have just installed vortex generators from Larry Vetterman for enough margin
to take my wife along.
Bob Olds
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Painting metallics |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MSices" <msices@core.com>
Mark:
Just finished painting my -8 with 2 stage paint (HOK). My suggestion would
be to try to do metallics with 2 stage paint rather than single stage. It
is really not that much more work and you can even clear over your single
stage paint to get an even cover over taped edges. Short of that, I would
suggest that you might try to put your first coat down dry (medium dry) so
that the metallic has a chance to spread evenly over the surface, then try
to come in gradually thicker with the 2nd or 3rd coat to get your gloss.
Horizontal surfaces usually get a thicker coat (because of gravity) so you
may find that aligning the parts vertically is simply getting you a finer
coverage, which is what you want with metallic. The way to get that on
horizontal is to turn the material quantity knob on your gun in. The
advantage of the 2 stage here is you can keep putting the metallic down dry,
then gloss it up with the clear.
I am by no means an expert on this, but thought I would chime in.
-Mike Sices
RV-8 - final assembly
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
czechsix@juno.com
Subject: RV-List: Painting metallics
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the flakes
to lay down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my plane
is a single-stage silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the leading
edges of the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed was the
empennage leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint guy, I
sprayed two coats--the first coat was across (perpendicular to) the leading
edge, wait 10 mins for it to tack up, and the second coat was along the
leading edge (i.e. a 90 degree cross coat to the first coat). This was on
the empennage with the parts hanging in the booth LE down. Great results.
Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that will
get covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage except
the parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look
weird....kinda splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on
a vertical surface helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity
than on a horizontal surface where they seem to just lay as the fell?
Anybody with metallic painting experience that can offer some insight or
suggestions? I still need to do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
---
Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
---
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Ground block location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Here is a picture of mine. Worked fine here.
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing/wiring.htm
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold (Waiting on the RV-10)
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Fwd'd from Aeroelectric List for RV-specific response.
>
> DC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 12:18 PM 9/13/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WHigg1170@aol.com
> > >
> > >Hello I have a question on the B&C 24 terminal ground block location. I
> don't
> > >have the engine or mount and I want to place the ground block on the
> cabin
> > >side of the firewall but don't know were to put it so it won't be in
the
> > >way and
> > >also still use vans #2 cables that came with the wiring harness kit.
> Thanks
> > >
> > >Bill
> > >RV-6
> >
> > Can any RV builders help Bill out with this?
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Lightspeed Cross country |
--> RV-List message posted by: JVanLaak@aol.com
Listers,
I have to share a recent experience. I have owned a pair of Cross Country
ANR headsets for about 2 years and have been very pleased with them. It is
possible that there are better ANR units, but the overall cost and weight and
comfort are a great bargain in my view.
But a couple months ago I got the power box caught in the seatbelt of my RV-3
and I pulled the wires loose. I sent an email to Lightspeed to see if they
would send me the wiring layout so I could reconnect the broken wire. They
really did not want to do this, preferring to get the unit back and check it out
fully. I asked how much, and they said "free." I sent the unit back, and
sure enough, I got my headset back in less than a week as good as new (new power
cord) and absolutely free except for the shipping to get it to them. In every
way I had contact with the company, they were absolutely customer and quality
oriented. I cannot remember better service from anyone.
BTW, someone said their mike seemed to let in too much noise. My current
plane, an RV-6, is very noisy (as proven with a borrowed headset), but the audio
coming from the mike on the Lightspeed is superb. The mike is directional and
needs to be rotated 180 degrees if you change from right side to left side,
so maybe the problem was a mike pointed at the noise rather than at the mouth.
I am totally satisfied with this great product.
Jim Van Laak
RV-6 N79RL
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Bernie Kerr status regarding heart attack (long not RV related) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Hi Bernie,
Sorry to hear of your recent problem. The FAA can be awfully unreasonable at
times. Friends here in the same boat have to start the process 3 months
early and still get the medical late and only after many phone calls.
At least you have the 9 project to keep you occupied.
Hang in there buddy, hope to see you soon.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Bernie Kerr status regarding heart attack (long not RV
related)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "WALTER KERR" <kerrjb@msn.com>
>
> Hi,
>
> Just a note from Bernie regarding my status. I had an MI in 1979 that
totally occluded the left anterior descending artery (called the widow
maker). I had run marathons before and ran them faster after the event to
the astonishment of the medical profession. Apparently my fitness saved me
with collateral flow paths for the heart muscle. I have had to do a stress
treadmill yearly to keep my 3rd class medical.
>
> Two weeks ago I experienced another shutdown( 90% blocked artery). A stent
was done and I feel fine, but the FAA automatically closes your 3rd class
for 6 months and then they are running 12-14 weeks for special issuances. I
am walking a mile a day and my cardiologists says he sees no reason that I
should not fly my RV6A. Too bad the FAA doesn't see it the same way.
>
> I have decided to sell the 6A and continue working on the 9A with the
rotary power. The airplane has been great and the TT on engine and airframe
are 390 hours. It has a Sam James cowl and plenum, SL30 nav/com with GS, DG
and AI. There are many other goodies which I will list on Doug's VAFWW site.
Asking price is 69K.
>
> Bernie Kerr, selling 6A , building 9A with rotary
>
> phone 772 466 6701
> do not archive
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Mcmahon" <rv6@earthlink.net>
Yep
I willsend a pic
John McMahon RV 6 (soon to paint)
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: RV-List: Fw: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Fwd'd from Aeroelectric List for RV-specific response.
>
> DC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> To: <aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ground block location
>
>
> > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III"
> <bob.nuckolls@cox.net>
> >
> > At 12:18 PM 9/13/2003 -0400, you wrote:
> > >--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: WHigg1170@aol.com
> > >
> > >Hello I have a question on the B&C 24 terminal ground block location. I
> don't
> > >have the engine or mount and I want to place the ground block on the
> cabin
> > >side of the firewall but don't know were to put it so it won't be in
the
> > >way and
> > >also still use vans #2 cables that came with the wiring harness kit.
> Thanks
> > >
> > >Bill
> > >RV-6
> >
> > Can any RV builders help Bill out with this?
> >
> > Bob . . .
> >
> >
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Painting metallics |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BillDube@killacycle.com" <BillDube@killacycle.com>
Below is all very good advice. The only thing I would cation about
is putting the base coat down dry. If you put the base coat down dry, and
don't let it flow out a bit, it leads to orange peel in the clear coat. You
can wet sand the clear coat with 1200 to remove the orange peel, but it
adds quite a bit of work to the process.
At 07:43 PM 9/15/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "MSices" <msices@core.com>
>
>Mark:
>
>Just finished painting my -8 with 2 stage paint (HOK). My suggestion would
>be to try to do metallics with 2 stage paint rather than single stage. It
>is really not that much more work and you can even clear over your single
>stage paint to get an even cover over taped edges. Short of that, I would
>suggest that you might try to put your first coat down dry (medium dry) so
>that the metallic has a chance to spread evenly over the surface, then try
>to come in gradually thicker with the 2nd or 3rd coat to get your gloss.
>Horizontal surfaces usually get a thicker coat (because of gravity) so you
>may find that aligning the parts vertically is simply getting you a finer
>coverage, which is what you want with metallic. The way to get that on
>horizontal is to turn the material quantity knob on your gun in. The
>advantage of the 2 stage here is you can keep putting the metallic down dry,
>then gloss it up with the clear.
>
>I am by no means an expert on this, but thought I would chime in.
>
>-Mike Sices
>RV-8 - final assembly
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>czechsix@juno.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Painting metallics
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Guys,
>
>What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the flakes
>to lay down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my plane
>is a single-stage silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the leading
>edges of the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed was the
>empennage leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint guy, I
>sprayed two coats--the first coat was across (perpendicular to) the leading
>edge, wait 10 mins for it to tack up, and the second coat was along the
>leading edge (i.e. a 90 degree cross coat to the first coat). This was on
>the empennage with the parts hanging in the booth LE down. Great results.
>
>Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that will
>get covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage except
>the parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look
>weird....kinda splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on
>a vertical surface helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity
>than on a horizontal surface where they seem to just lay as the fell?
>Anybody with metallic painting experience that can offer some insight or
>suggestions? I still need to do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
>
>The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
>Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
>---
>Incoming mail is certified Virus Free.
>
>---
>
>
Bill Dube <LED@Killacycle.com>
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Message 41
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| Subject: | Whelen Strobe Power Supplies for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Blake Avant <planesense2002@yahoo.com>
I have USED Whelen Strobe Power supplies for sale. I
have 1, 2, and
> 3 strobe power supplies in working condition. I
have tested each of
> these units for proper operation. The cost for
these units is $75 to
> $125, plus shipping. You can email me for current
inventory, I will
> send pictures and price of the unit.
>
> These are surplus and salvage units that have been
tested and proven
> to be fully operational. If you have the desire to
repair units, I
> have others that do not work and will sell these for
half the price
> of the working units.
>
> Blake Avant
__________________________________
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: paint weight and coats required |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
HOW MUCH WEIGHT!!
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: paint weight and coats required
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
> Guys,
>
> I thought I'd offer some insight for those of you who are interested in
saving weight on your paint job. I have learned (again, the hard way) that
for a given color, certain paint brands cover (or "hide") better than
others, and from a weight/time/money standpoint, obviously the fewer coats
it takes to cover the plane the better. I knew before I started painting
that some colors tend to need more coats than others....for example I've
heard that yellow airplanes tend to be a bit heavier (or is this hearsay??)
due to more coats needed.
>
> Anyway my paint scheme (T-6A JPATS in USAF markings) is mostly blue and
white with red stripe. I am using Sherwin Williams Genesis series which is
an acrylic urethane (designed to replace the Sunfire acrylic urethane
series). I picked the Genesis paint over DuPont Imron 5000 (the two
offerings from my local paint shop) because it is a bit less expensive and
easier to buff out any small flaws. Being a novice painter I thought this
was a good thing. But the downside I've discovered is that the single-stage
dark blue color that I'm using requires at least 3 wet coats to get full
color coverage. This is over a grey primer, and I might get by with only
two coats using a black or dark blue tinted primer. Anyway it's a real
bummer because it takes more time and most of all adds WEIGHT. I've tried
to keep my airplane light so this is discouraging. Several people I've
talked to who've used dark blue DuPont Imron or PPG Concept have said they
only needed 1-2 coats. Dave Wilso!
> n for example (who's nice USAF-themed red/white/blue RV-8 was featured a
few weeks ago in RV of the Week) told me he only needed a single coat of
each color, with PPG Concept). If I had known this, I'd have used Imron or
Concept instead of Genesis just for weight savings, and ironically, might
even save money since less paint is required (even though Imron is more
expensive than Genesis).
>
> The twist according to local painters I've talked to is that while this is
true for dark blue, it may be just the opposite for a different color. For
example, I was told that red Imron doesn't cover as well as red Genesis.
Ah, too bad my whole airplane isn't red instead of just the stripe : )
>
> The one and only advantage to using 3 coats of dark blue Genesis is that
it does have great "depth"....a really nice wet look with a single-stage
paint that if buffed out would probably rival a 2-stage (clearcoat). But
the reason I would not clearcoat an airplane--or use dark blue Genesis
again--is because IMHO the weight gain and expense and time to apply is not
worth the slightly nicer looks you get compared to using minimal coats of a
good-hiding single-stage paint.
>
> Why didn't somebody tell me all this before I started? : )
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D painting....crying....painting....whining...
>
> The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Rolling Elevator leading Edges |
RCVD_FAKE_HELO_DOTCOM_2
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Anyone have a good procedure and/or pictures for rolling the leading edges of the
control surfaces? Are people cutting down lengths of broomsticks and doing
a cut-out section at a time, or do they do it all at once? I just followed the
directions and rolled the whole thing at once (after using the edge-rolling
tool on both edges). It seemed to produce different curvatures from inboard
to outboard ends. I then got the bright idea of "fixing" it with the hand seamer,
and put little indentions all along the inboard edge. I'm more disgusted
with the results of this than any other part to date. I haven't started the
right elevator or the rudder, so I am hoping I can do it better on those pieces.
A quick search of the archives didn't do much help.
Also, is anyone using an alternative pop-rivet in that area? The AD-41s specified
in the plans sure seem wimpy.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Scott
7A Emmp/Wings
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