Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:42 AM - Installation Requirements (Jim Nolan)
2. 06:19 AM - Re: Painting metallics (Craig Warner)
3. 06:49 AM - Re: LRI (Bill VonDane)
4. 06:52 AM - Kewl A&P Site (Bill VonDane)
5. 07:41 AM - Help (Bill VonDane)
6. 08:10 AM - Filter airbox drawings needed (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
7. 08:19 AM - Re: LRI (Dane Sheahen)
8. 12:56 PM - Re: Dynon Report (Bob)
9. 02:38 PM - Re: Dynon Report (Stein Bruch)
10. 03:35 PM - Re: Flip-up center armrest? (LarryRobertHelming)
11. 04:02 PM - angle of attack for sale (Wayne Pedersen)
12. 06:20 PM - -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials (Terence Gannon)
13. 07:24 PM - Spam/Virus Attack (Kyle Boatright)
14. 07:55 PM - Re: Spam/Virus Attack (Terry Watson)
15. 08:14 PM - Re: LOE Fly-in (Bob Hassel)
16. 08:25 PM - Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
17. 10:36 PM - Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials (Patrick Kelley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Installation Requirements |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jimnolan@insightbb.com>
Listers,
I'd like to thank Steve Chambers, Mike Robertson and Charlie Becker for the
information provided to me about the legalities of the changes that I'm making
to my aircraft.
The result is, I'm getting a Recurrent Certification on my aircraft. I have
new OpLims and a five hour test period. The DAR at Warsaw has turned in all the
paperwork.
The reason I've went to this trouble is to have a warm, fuzzy feeling knowing
that I don't have to wonder if I'm legal or if the insurance company will pay
off in case of an accident.
Isn't it nice to have the list to seek information when you need it.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
( The Sensenich prop (79) is five knots slower than the Warnke, but it cuts through
rain)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Painting metallics |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Craig Warner" <cwarner@twcny.rr.com>
There are many variables in shooting metallic.To get an even layer of
metallic the biggest are, Same air pressure at the spray gun each time, Same
distance between work and gun, Same drying time (temperature in shop), Same
speed of travel with the gun,Same mix ratio in paint(thinner and hardener)
and well mixed paint.The marbles are only for use in siphon feed guns (with
the paint cup on the bottom) they will block a gravity feed gun. Speaking of
guns, add to the above list to use the same gun with the same
tip.(especially on HVLP). The main thing we are trying to do is to get the
paint on evenly with the same drying time. This will let the small particles
of metallic lay down in the same position in the paint and reflect light
back the same amount giving the appearance of being the same color.
Best regards
Craig Warner still building
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting metallics
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Mark,
>
> When shooting metallic paint you have to keep the paint agitated. If you
> don't have a professional gun with an agitator in it then just give the
> gun a shake at the end of every couple of strokes. Most of the metallic
> paints that I've used don't like to stay mixed very well and you have to
> keep it stirred somehow.
> I had to repaint a car once because of this and believe me, it DOES make
> a difference.
>
> Dave EAA Technical Counselor
>
> czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >
> >
> >Guys,
> >
> >What's the trick to painting single-stage metallics and getting the
flakes to lay down in a uniform fashion? The only metallic I'm using on my
plane is a single-stage silver (SherWill Genesis) that I'm applying to the
leading edges of the wings, empennage, and flaps. The first thing I sprayed
was the empennage leading edges. Per the recommendation of a local paint
guy, I sprayed two coats--the first coat was across (perpendicular to) the
leading edge, wait 10 mins for it to tack up, and the second coat was along
the leading edge (i.e. a 90 degree cross coat to the first coat). This was
on the empennage with the parts hanging in the booth LE down. Great
results.
> >
> >Couple days ago I sprayed silver on the "LE" of my flaps (the part that
will get covered by UHMW). I did everything the same as on the empennage
except the parts were laying flat on sawhorses. This time the flakes look
weird....kinda splotchy with an uneven pattern. Wondering if painting it on
a vertical surface helps "align" the flakes better due to the tug of gravity
than on a horizontal surface where they seem to just lay as the fell?
Anybody with metallic painting experience that can offer some insight or
suggestions? I still need to do my wing LE's and want them to look good...
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D painting...learning everything the hard way...
> >
> >The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
> >Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Na... No offence taken... I knew what you were trying to say.....and
thanks!
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
Bill,
I'm glad I didn't offend you. I wished I had lightened up on the
tone of the message after I sent it, but it was too late.
Tone in e-mails is a real problem. It is so easy to take stuff the
wrong way. But if we all paid excruciating attention to the tone we
would never get the blasted things written. So every once in a while
we'll drop a real clanger.
Take care and fly safe,
Kevin
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>ok, ok... I get it... I will start flying by the LRI...
>
>Sheesh! ;-)
>
>-Bill
>do not archive
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Kevin Horton" <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: LRI
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorto1537@rogers.com>
>
>Al was working on an add-on module for the round-dial LRI to add
>aural stall warning. I saw a demo at OSH, and it seems to be
>promising.
>
>Anyone installing a LRI (or other "AOA" system needs to decide what
>they want the unit to do. If you want stall warning, you need one
>with some sort of audible signal. If you want it to help you go into
>and out of short fields, or to be there in case you need to do a
>forced landing in a small spot, you had better get used to using it
>on every flight. Otherwise you won't have developed the skills and
>habit patterns required to use the AOA system on the day you really
>need it.
>--
>Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
Message 4
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
http://www.tech.purdue.edu/at/courses/aeml/index.html
Message 5
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I'm trying to contact Mark Russell of Sunnyvale, CA... Anyone have his email?
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Filter airbox drawings needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Can someone scan the pages to assemble the FAB for me. Mine have got lost.
I have the 0-360 carb. style.
reply direct to my address above...
To save time scanning, I will accept from the first offer and advise all others.
Thanks, Phil
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
I have a LRI on my RV8 and have been using it for about a year. It is great
in the pattern and gives you an audible warning before you run out of lift.
I have the unit with the LED in the horizontal position and it mounted on
the top of my glare shield . All of the LEDs light about 90 knots and as
you slow down one LED at time shuts off starting from left to right. When
you hear the tone you had better be near the ground.
The other nice feature was the ease of calibrating. You just take the plane
to wear you not climbing and not quite stalling and you hit the button and
you are done.
Any question call me at 847-727-0026
Dane Sheahen
RV8a N838RV
> Anyone have any info the LED version?
www.liftreserve.net
BTW, any comments (positive, negative, does it help your approaches, etc)
on the LRI in your RV-8? I'm still wanting some type of AOA device, love
to hear real world user experiences vs manufacturer hype.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
I am installing the Dynon in my RV and I thought I would pass along a few
comments as I go.
The unit is very light. I had a chance to compare it to a turn and bank
gyro and it seems that the Dynon unit is about 5 lbs lighter (both systems
are about the same physical size). So with three gyros I am saving well
over 10 pounds with just the instrument, not counting the vacumn system.
You do need an RS 232 cable to wire the system. I live in a very rural
area, went to Radio Shack asked for an RS 232 cable and they looked at me
like I was from Mars! The frustrations of rural living.
Installing the remote magnometer would be a lot easier during construction,
although it is doable for a completed aircraft. For me the hardest part is
deciding where to put it, a lot of places are possible, but what is the
best, etc.
FYI, Aeroelectric Bob has a Dynon installation kit, it has some of what
you will need, it does not have the D-9 and D-25 connector shields, RS 232
cable or the pitot and static connectors (1/8" male fittings). Why Dynon
does not include this stuff is beyond me, it would make it much simpler
just to add it to the package and charge more money. This is what Rocky
Mountain and Grand Rapids does.
In the instructions and wiring you can wire an external temp probe, but no
where on the Dynon's web site do they mention how to order the probe. The
instructions state this is an optional item from Dynon. I guess I will
have to call.
When you get your system, download the latest instructions. Although my
system was shipped after the date of the latest instruction version, I
received the old instructions.
I borrowed a smart level. Never having used one before, there was a
learning curve in using the calibration, mode and units. I did it all
wrong before I figured it out.
For the Dynon unit I am using the same static/pitot system as I use for my
RMI microencoder. Once I get the Dynon pitot tube, I will put that in as a
seperate pitot and static system just for the Dynon unit. This gives me a
redundant pitot/static system in the A/C. No sense ripping out the old
system just to put in the new one.
Well that is it for now. Will post more of the saga as it continues.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Bob,
Just an FYI, but the "RS-232" is not actually a "cable", but rather a data
communication protocal, in Dynon's case used to communicate with a PC. You
won't actually find a "pre-made" harness for this thing, since everyone is
going to use it differently. I used the gray code outputs coupled to my
UPSAT SL-70, most people who already have an encoder probably won't.
Basically you end up making a harness with several leads, one for the txpdr,
one for power, and one for the remote mount compass module, but bare bones
the only thing required to turn it on is power/ground.
Also, I will have the same "install kit" available soon with all the stuff
mentioned below, INCLUDING the D-Sub shells for about %30 less.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
The NEW SteinAir Store - http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bob
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Report
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
I am installing the Dynon in my RV and I thought I would pass along a few
comments as I go.
The unit is very light. I had a chance to compare it to a turn and bank
gyro and it seems that the Dynon unit is about 5 lbs lighter (both systems
are about the same physical size). So with three gyros I am saving well
over 10 pounds with just the instrument, not counting the vacumn system.
You do need an RS 232 cable to wire the system. I live in a very rural
area, went to Radio Shack asked for an RS 232 cable and they looked at me
like I was from Mars! The frustrations of rural living.
Installing the remote magnometer would be a lot easier during construction,
although it is doable for a completed aircraft. For me the hardest part is
deciding where to put it, a lot of places are possible, but what is the
best, etc.
FYI, Aeroelectric Bob has a Dynon installation kit, it has some of what
you will need, it does not have the D-9 and D-25 connector shields, RS 232
cable or the pitot and static connectors (1/8" male fittings). Why Dynon
does not include this stuff is beyond me, it would make it much simpler
just to add it to the package and charge more money. This is what Rocky
Mountain and Grand Rapids does.
In the instructions and wiring you can wire an external temp probe, but no
where on the Dynon's web site do they mention how to order the probe. The
instructions state this is an optional item from Dynon. I guess I will
have to call.
When you get your system, download the latest instructions. Although my
system was shipped after the date of the latest instruction version, I
received the old instructions.
I borrowed a smart level. Never having used one before, there was a
learning curve in using the calibration, mode and units. I did it all
wrong before I figured it out.
For the Dynon unit I am using the same static/pitot system as I use for my
RMI microencoder. Once I get the Dynon pitot tube, I will put that in as a
seperate pitot and static system just for the Dynon unit. This gives me a
redundant pitot/static system in the A/C. No sense ripping out the old
system just to put in the new one.
Well that is it for now. Will post more of the saga as it continues.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Flip-up center armrest? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I like your idea of a center console from the stand point of having
something to grab or push on when getting out of the plane and into it. It
would have to be strong.
BUT I am concerned, because one of the guys that I will give a ride to on
occasion is about 255 pounds. It will aid him with entry and exit. Once in
however, he will be putting constant strain/pressure on the console from the
side. What do you think of your console's strength from side force?
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <mstewart@qa.butler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flip-up center armrest?
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> I Assume from your question you are looking for armrest pictures. I have
> some here. Center console, simple construction, flip up top. I have
several
> friends who put one of these in after flying mine. (right smoozer?) Very
> comfortable and useful.
>
> http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
> go to finishing, then interior.
>
> If you were looking for that particular plane, sorry I can not help you
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Mike Stewart
> RV-6A
> <snip
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mitch Faatz [mailto:mitchf@skybound.com]
>
> I saw a plane at a fly-in Jackson, CA about five years ago that had a
real
> nice flip-up armrest that they said they were always fighting over when
they
> flew. Anybody know which plane that might be? It was an RV-6 or 6A with
a
> real nice interior.
> <snip>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | angle of attack for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
Rite Angle III angle of attack indicator for sale. see
http://www.riteangle.com/ for more info. Brand new and only opened for
inventory. Complete with RV wing mount. Paid $425 - offers ?
Reply off line to wayne@pedersentransport.com
Thanks
Wayne
RV7a
Do not archive
---
Message 12
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| Subject: | -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terence Gannon" <terence.gannon@telus.net>
'Listers --
I'm about to head to the lumberyard to pick up the wood for the fuse
jig, which I intend to build as per the plans. Did any of you -6
builders compile a bill of materials, and if so, would it be possible to
get a copy?? Thanx, in advance.
Terry in Calgary
RV-6 S/N 24414
"Fuse!"
Message 13
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| Subject: | Spam/Virus Attack |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
first things first...
Do not archive.
Today I recieved something like 100 messages with attached viruses. Incredible!
Anyone else experiencing this (i.e. is it somehow RV-list related), or did I step
in some other internet minefield?
BTW, I know that the RV-list doesn't pass attachments and understand that the files
are not being passed directly through the list.
Thanks,
KB
Message 14
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| Subject: | Spam/Virus Attack |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I went through that a week or two ago. Many of the messages with viruses
were supposed "mail delivery failure" messages about messages sent in my
name to addresses I have never seen before. It hasn't happened at all this
week.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Spam/Virus Attack
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
first things first...
Do not archive.
Today I recieved something like 100 messages with attached viruses.
Incredible!
Anyone else experiencing this (i.e. is it somehow RV-list related), or did I
step in some other internet minefield?
BTW, I know that the RV-list doesn't pass attachments and understand that
the files are not being passed directly through the list.
Thanks,
KB
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
There are also some good restaurants - if you know where to go. Old Mesilla
is just down the street from the Hampton and has a quaint flavor as well as
the Meson de Mesilla restaurant. East of the University there's the Farm and
Ranch Heritage Museum. Also a drive up highway 70 to the pass over looking
White Sands Missile Range.
Sorry just a little home sick! I miss Cruces - lived there 18 years!!!!!
Bob Hassel
RV9A in a holding pattern - RV10 maybe soon! 8-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: LOE Fly-in
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
>
>Anyone have info on transportation to/from the airport and town? Are
>restaurants within walking distance from the motel (Hampton Inn)? Is there
>any reason one would need/want a rental car? Thanks in advance.
>Ivan Haecker rv-4 950 hrs. So.Cen.TX
We have to have a car...with a toddler seat! The airport is rather isolated
from the city. If you want true flexibility for your itinerary, rent a car.
(I booked a Hertz, Ford Taurus for about $30.) Or, just hitch a ride with
someone who has an extra seat. There should be plenty...even mine! If you
stay at the Hampton Inn, there should be a small squadron of RV'ers with
rental cars coming and going throughout the event.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Terence Gannon wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terence Gannon" <terence.gannon@telus.net>
>
> 'Listers --
>
> I'm about to head to the lumberyard to pick up the wood for the fuse
> jig, which I intend to build as per the plans. Did any of you -6
> builders compile a bill of materials, and if so, would it be possible to
> get a copy?? Thanx, in advance.
>
> Terry in Calgary
> RV-6 S/N 24414
> "Fuse!"
Terry, You might ask around and see if there is a jig sitting that some one
has finished with.
There may be many of them around for free, especially in your area where there
are lots of RV's.
Just a thought,
Phil
Message 17
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| Subject: | -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Sorry, I didn't keep mine, just jotted it down on a post-it and tossed
it when done. Took about 15 minutes to figure out from the plans and,
from memory, I think it was 9 2x4 studs, 3 1x4 8', 2 2x6 18' and a half
sheet of plywood. I used drywall screws to assemble, so a box of 3" and
a box of 5".
I bought construction pine and regret it; some of it warped pretty badly
while aging and has caused me to keep an eye on it while building my
fuselage. Meanwhile, my cedar wing jig is still as straight as ever.
If you can afford it, go with the cedar or something else that will be
more stable. You don't want a warp in your jig showing up in your
airplane.
I agree with Phil - if you can find a jig, don't build your own. Now
that the -6 series is winding down, you will essentially end up using it
for firewood when you are done. It's less and less likely that you will
find someone to take it off your hands. Anyway, good luck. I'm finding
the fuselage to be the most fun component to work on - possibly because
there's more room to work.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - aft bottom skins drilled, working on sides
Terence Gannon wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terence Gannon"
<terence.gannon@telus.net>
>
> 'Listers --
>
> I'm about to head to the lumberyard to pick up the wood for the fuse
> jig, which I intend to build as per the plans. Did any of you -6
> builders compile a bill of materials, and if so, would it be possible
to
> get a copy?? Thanx, in advance.
>
> Terry in Calgary
> RV-6 S/N 24414
> "Fuse!"
Terry, You might ask around and see if there is a jig sitting that some
one
has finished with.
There may be many of them around for free, especially in your area where
there
are lots of RV's.
Just a thought,
Phil
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