Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:24 AM - Re: Flip-up center armrest? (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
2. 06:20 AM - Re: Spam/Virus Attack (Cy Galley)
3. 07:01 AM - Dynon report (Wheeler North)
4. 07:19 AM - Re: Dynon Report (Sam Buchanan)
5. 07:42 AM - Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials (Elsa & Henry)
6. 08:48 AM - Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials (DJB6A@cs.com)
7. 09:38 AM - Re: Dynon Report (Randy Lervold)
8. 10:28 AM - Re: Dynon Report (Sam Buchanan)
9. 10:50 AM - Re: Dynon Report (Bob)
10. 02:00 PM - W&B on a -6A (dmedema@att.net)
11. 02:01 PM - Re: Dynon Report (Dan Checkoway)
12. 03:31 PM - Matco master cylinder rebuild (Brian Denk)
13. 03:35 PM - Fw: Dynon Avionics Announces Release of AOA/Pitot Probe (Jeff Point)
14. 03:42 PM - Dynon Remote Mag Placement (Ross Mickey)
15. 04:23 PM - Re: Matco master cylinder rebuild (Harvey Sigmon)
16. 05:29 PM - Re: Fw: Dynon Avionics Announces Release of AOA/Pitot Probe (dmedema@att.net)
17. 05:38 PM - Re: Dynon Remote Mag Placement (dmedema@att.net)
18. 05:48 PM - Re: RiteAngle AOA owners (RiteAngle3@aol.com)
19. 07:05 PM - Diamondhead Flyin? (Charlie & Tupper England)
20. 07:20 PM - 9A manual trim cable in a 6A? (Jeff Orear)
21. 07:52 PM - Re: Diamondhead Flyin? (Ed Anderson)
22. 08:58 PM - Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? Redux (very long) (Ed Holyoke)
23. 09:40 PM - Re: Matco master cylinder rebuild (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Flip-up center armrest? |
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Biggest guy I have had in it is 315lbs. And since the console was between
us, he did NOT encroach on my space, which is the best part of all. The
console keeps everyone in their own space. No matter how big my passenger
is, I get my own space always. No one stands on it, but my technique for
entry and egress is to hold the welded handle on the rollbar with one hand
and push/use, lean on the console. That has worked for even the biggest guy.
Side loads are minimum. But since my console uses the flap motor channel for
most of its side strength, it is very strong. The forward section of the
console you can grab the top at the lid and move it back and forth some. But
the side loads on the forward portion are minimum. Most of the side load
would be from a large persons butt in the rear, where the flap motor is
supporting the structure. The console is not long enough to be of any factor
for spreading legs in the forward section.
The pictures illustrate that pretty good.
Mike Stewart
Dynon and 530 sitting on the bench waiting for me to install(read take plane
out of service).
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: LarryRobertHelming [mailto:lhelming@sigecom.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flip-up center armrest?
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I like your idea of a center console from the stand point of having
something to grab or push on when getting out of the plane and into it. It
would have to be strong.
BUT I am concerned, because one of the guys that I will give a ride to on
occasion is about 255 pounds. It will aid him with entry and exit. Once in
however, he will be putting constant strain/pressure on the console from the
side. What do you think of your console's strength from side force?
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: <mstewart@qa.butler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flip-up center armrest?
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> I Assume from your question you are looking for armrest pictures. I have
> some here. Center console, simple construction, flip up top. I have
several
> friends who put one of these in after flying mine. (right smoozer?) Very
> comfortable and useful.
>
> http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
> go to finishing, then interior.
>
> If you were looking for that particular plane, sorry I can not help you
>
> Enjoy,
>
> Mike Stewart
> RV-6A
> <snip
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mitch Faatz [mailto:mitchf@skybound.com]
>
> I saw a plane at a fly-in Jackson, CA about five years ago that had a
real
> nice flip-up armrest that they said they were always fighting over when
they
> flew. Anybody know which plane that might be? It was an RV-6 or 6A with
a
> real nice interior.
> <snip>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Spam/Virus Attack |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
You are not alone. I'm getting the "MS patch" which looks like it is coming
from Microsoft. and then a parallel message from say "postmaster" and the
like saying that they couldn't deliver the attached message. My ISP Mediacom
said to forward a could to the abuse department so they could check them
out. The address is then abuse@thenameof your ISP. I know they aren't
coming from matronics as matt strips all attachments. It could be someone on
one of the lists however.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Subject: RV-List: Spam/Virus Attack
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
>
> first things first...
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Today I recieved something like 100 messages with attached viruses.
Incredible!
>
> Anyone else experiencing this (i.e. is it somehow RV-list related), or did
I step in some other internet minefield?
>
> BTW, I know that the RV-list doesn't pass attachments and understand that
the files are not being passed directly through the list.
>
> Thanks,
>
> KB
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Folks,
I finally got to fly the thing yesterday after moving the mag unit to the
wing leading edge(its been a busy month).
It seems to be glued to the earth's iron core. It still reads off from the
steam one slightly, but then I wasn't very accurate with the calibration. As
soon as I get a cooler day I'll go out to the rose and get it accurate.
When doing slow turns it tracks the DG exactly, when doing 3g knife edge
turns it roars right along with the turn and when I snap out of the turn,
its right on heading, either direction. The DG will precess slighly when I
do this.
I then shot the ILS into CRQ and it was far easier to track it then the
steam compass or the DG as my total scan was D-10 / ILS
So for your specs, I measured how far away it originally was from the
aileron corner, 10.75" where it was having interference from the steel in
the aileron. Right now the closest steel (4130 push rod for the navaid
servo) to it is 15" app. Its slightly less for the wing wires, but they are
on the back side of the spar. The strobe lights on the tips are about 23"
away, and don't seem to effect it either.
So, needless to say, I'm am still very impressed by this unit every time I
fly it.
Also, RE the AOA pitot tube question from yesterday. This is not yet
available to my knowledge, but they are working on it.
W
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Bob wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
> <snip>
> You do need an RS 232 cable to wire the system. I live in a very rural
> area, went to Radio Shack asked for an RS 232 cable and they looked at me
> like I was from Mars! The frustrations of rural living.
>
> Installing the remote magnometer would be a lot easier during construction,
> although it is doable for a completed aircraft. For me the hardest part is
> deciding where to put it, a lot of places are possible, but what is the
> best, etc.
> <snip>
Here is another heads up for Dynon installations. For a previous
magnetometer installation in my RV-6, I used CAT-5 network cable to wire
the mag installed in the tail and the cable worked just fine. I used the
same harness for the Dynon remote mag and was plagued by serious EMI
which manifested itself as noise in the com radio. When I contacted
Dynon for assistance in locating the source of the noise, I was told
that shielded cable was highly recommended for the remote mag
installation. Unfortunately, that is not mentioned in the Dynon
documentation.
I disconnected the remote mag power lead at the D10 connector, and the
noise disappeared. It seems the Dynon is sending EMI down the remote mag
power line so be sure you use shielded cable to the remote mag. This
problem may not be present in all installations; it may depend on the
proximity of the harness to antennae in a particular aircraft.
I too am perplexed about the temp sensor; I have seen mention of it on
the web site, but there is no mention of it in the wiring docs I have,
and no mention of it in the User Manual. There must have been, or are
plans to later incorporate, a TAS function in the D10.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 510 hrs)
http://thervjournal.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Terry,
Use kiln dried lumber! there are some horror stories including one from my
Son-in -law who had to rebuild his horizontal stab. rear spar because he
didn't realize the jig had warped!
Another tip is to build the fuse jig in two sections. The front section,
conforming to the plans, but terminating about 10" behind the F-606
bulkhead, essentially a rectangular frame of 2 x 6"s with 4 x 4" legs at
each corner. The aft section is also a rectangular frame of 2 x 6"s but the
width is reduced to that required for mounting the F-607 bulkhead. It's
asinine to have the same width the whole length of the jig taking up all
that space toward the rear. A 4 x 4" leg is installed at each aft corner.The
front cross-member of the rear section is bolted to the aft cross-member of
the front section, which then results in the complete jig with 6 legs.
The beauty of having the jig in two sections is that once you have skinned
the rear cone and the front side skins, the aft section of the jig can be
removed and clear access is available to install those final rivets in the
rear of the cone that are hard to get to when it is on the jig.
I had 2 x 2" steel angles bolted to the bottom of the legs which could take
hold down bolts to the floor and later take casters on the front section so
I could move it around at will. That was very useful as I built a 6-A and
was able to move the fuse around my garage to put the wings on to drill the
U/C mounts. (I envy the 7-A builders that don't have to go through that
!*#!~*! routine!)
I put on a slab of 3/8" ply-wood on the front section of the jig and now is
a very useful table (on casters) in my hangar!
I can scan a few photos and send them to you, if you like. I don't think its
worth putting them on the List Photo- Share seeing that there must be very
few -6 builders out there a your stage.
cheers!!---Henry Hore
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: -6 Fuse Jig Bill of Materials |
--> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
Terry,
I used 3/4 birch ply laminated together, cut into 4" strips. Screwed and lag
bolted, then the whole thing coated with polyurethane, jig was very accurate
and did not warp. Did take some time to build, and needed some reasonable
woodworking tools, table saw and jointer. Straightness of fuse and bulkhead
placement is very important.
Best suggestion is look for a used one in your area.
Dave Burnham
RV6A (N64FN reserved)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> I too am perplexed about the temp sensor; I have seen mention of it on
> the web site, but there is no mention of it in the wiring docs I have,
> and no mention of it in the User Manual. There must have been, or are
> plans to later incorporate, a TAS function in the D10.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 510 hrs)
> http://thervjournal.com
Sam et al,
The temp sensor wiring is there because Dynon is eventually planning on
adding real time TAS, which of course they will need temperature input for.
There are some builders, myself included, who won't buy one util they have
it. Believe me, once you've flown with real time TAS you don't want to go
back.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Randy Lervold wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>
> > I too am perplexed about the temp sensor; I have seen mention of it on
> > the web site, but there is no mention of it in the wiring docs I have,
> > and no mention of it in the User Manual. There must have been, or are
> > plans to later incorporate, a TAS function in the D10.
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 510 hrs)
> > http://thervjournal.com
>
> Sam et al,
> The temp sensor wiring is there because Dynon is eventually planning on
> adding real time TAS, which of course they will need temperature input for.
> There are some builders, myself included, who won't buy one util they have
> it. Believe me, once you've flown with real time TAS you don't want to go
> back.
Randy, since I have the RMI uEncoder, I have had real time TAS for 500
hrs, and I refer to it often, especially for calculating winds aloft. I
agree it is a nice feature, but I don't think I would let the lack of a
TAS function be a deal breaker when it comes to buying a cool EFIS.
Sam Buchanan
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>Installing the remote magnometer would be a lot easier during construction,
>although it is doable for a completed aircraft. For me the hardest part is
>deciding where to put it, a lot of places are possible, but what is the
>best, etc.
I have had a request on possible locations, so I thought I would post to all.
1. In front of the horizontal stab, under the vertical stab.
2. On the rear of the baggage bulkhead, top and sides
3. Outboard in a wing bay
4. Behind the pilot or copilots seat, mount to the horizontal crossbar
5. Under the baggage floor skins
6. Inside my wing fairing, I have P-40/Spitfire style fairings.
7. Inside the baggage compartment
8. On the floorboards, just behind the pilot/copilot seats
9. On any fuselage bulkhead behind the baggage compartment
10. Build a shelf somewhere behind the baggage compartment hang from top
skin, or mount to bottom skin.
11. Inside a wing tip.
Now you see what I mean by the hardest part, if you do investigate all of
these options, you may never get it installed. Depending on how you
configured your aircraft, some areas will definitely be better than others.
If I were in the building stage, I would try and put it under the seat or
baggage floor. Lots of good unused space under there.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
On-ground Level
Nose tire: 236 272
Right tire: 396 377
Left tire: 394 378
The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
all the fuel is used in this scenario.
I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Report |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> If I were in the building stage, I would try and put it under the seat or
> baggage floor. Lots of good unused space under there.
No way...I would strongly recommend against mounting it under the seat. If
you or your passenger is wearing anything steel (belt buckle?) or have
anything ferrous in your pockets that might cause interference (key ring on
a keychain, for example; some pens?), you'll be hatin' it. Then there's the
effect of the moving stick/control column, flap weldment, etc.
Or if you mount it under the baggage floor, who's to say you'll never put
anything ferrous back there? Maybe a zipper on a bag or suitcase? Tools?
I'd recommend mounting the remote compass well away from any potential
interference. http://www.rvproject.com/20030806.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Matco master cylinder rebuild |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Listers,
I have a leaking master cylinder on my RV8. I ordered rebuild kits (two of
them). For those with a few years of RV operation behind them, have you
found it's best to just rebuild both master cylinders every few years or do
they typically work for a long time, thus requiring rebuild only as needed?
I'd rather just do both while I'm at it if it's the best plan of action.
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fwd: Dynon Avionics Announces Release of AOA/Pitot Probe |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
For those not on the Dynon mailing list, this just came this afternoon:
Dynon Avionics Announces Release of AOA/Pitot Probe
Dynon Avionics is pleased to announce the immediate availability of the
AOA/pitot probe for use with the EFIS-D10 electronic flight information
system. This original release is for the unheated version only. We hope to
have the heated version available within the next several months.
Introductory pricing is $199.00. Orders can be placed by calling Dynon
Avionics at 425-402-0443.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Dynon Remote Mag Placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Excuse me if I missed some of the posts along the way but....
isn't the calibration program supposed to correct for any "permanent"
interference? I can understand why you wouldn't want it near any
fluctuating magnetic current but shouldn't it take into account the
permanent magnetic force created by a screw or nearby steel tube?
What about using mu-metal to shield the offending steel?
Ross Mickey
RV6A
Painting
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Matco master cylinder rebuild |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Brian: I just went through this with my right brake on my RV-6A at about
200 hrs. I just did the one brake, what I found on this one was it was not
running in a true plane and I could see some wear at the top where the small
"O" ring fits. I found the same thing on my last RV-6 at about 200 hours.
It seems as you press the rod into the cylinder the upper ring is easy to
cut, so use a little hydraulic fluid seems to help. As hard as they are to
change on the RV-6 I only change them when I detect leakage out the shaft.
Hope this helps.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A flying Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Matco master cylinder rebuild
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I have a leaking master cylinder on my RV8. I ordered rebuild kits (two
of
> them). For those with a few years of RV operation behind them, have you
> found it's best to just rebuild both master cylinders every few years or
do
> they typically work for a long time, thus requiring rebuild only as
needed?
> I'd rather just do both while I'm at it if it's the best plan of action.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Dynon Avionics Announces Release of AOA/Pitot Probe |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
Just a quick note regarding the announcement of the AOA/pitot probe:
The phone number is incorrect in some of the emails that got sent
out including the one posted on the list. The correct phone number
is:
425-402-0433.
Thanks,
Doug Medema
Dynon Avionics
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Remote Mag Placement |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>Ross Mickey wrote:
>Excuse me if I missed some of the posts along the way but....
>
>isn't the calibration program supposed to correct for any "permanent"
>interference? I can understand why you wouldn't want it near any
>fluctuating magnetic current but shouldn't it take into account the
>permanent magnetic force created by a screw or nearby steel tube?
>
>What about using mu-metal to shield the offending steel?
A magnetic calibration that will account for any "permanent"
interference would require a much more extensive in-flight
calibration than is practical. The in-plane EDC-D10 calibration
is intended to only take care of minor interference. The best
performance will be obtained by mounting the EDC-D10 as far
away from ferrous metal and current carrying wires as possible.
For reasons mentioned by Dan Checkoway, I would not mount it
under the seats or floorboards (i.e. moving ferrous metal from
controls.)
Doug Medema
Dynon Avionics
P.S. We have just released a new version of the software as
well. We are now at V1.5.
Message 18
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| Subject: | RE: RiteAngle AOA owners |
--> RV-List message posted by: RiteAngle3@aol.com
Hello aircraft builders. I know I have quite a few customers out there in
your ranks. If you are building an aircraft or flying your aircraft with the
RiteAngle AOA system I would appreciate personal photos of installation and
comments, positive or negative sent to me off list. Please state model of
aircraft, hours flown with RiteAngle AOA system and any suggestions.
Those who have questions re AOA please also contact me off list. I don't
want to use the list unless questions are asked that would apply to all.
address for contact: riteangle3@aol.com
There are several hundred RiteAngle systems out there and many owners have
changed e-mail addresses.
Thanks,
Elbie
Outstanding Customer Service is our Motto
If you like it let others know
If not let me know!
EM aviation, LLC
Elbie Mendenhall
President
13411 NE Prairie Rd
Brush Prairie, WA 98606
Phone & Fax 360-260-0772
www.RiteAngle.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Diamondhead Flyin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Anyone in the Southeast going to the Diamondhead Mississippi flyin tomorrow?
Charlie
RV-4 N914RV
Message 20
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| Subject: | 9A manual trim cable in a 6A? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Listers:
I am trying to get everything squared away in the aft fuselage before I rivet my
aft top fuselage skin on, and I have a question, mostly for the 9A builders
out there, regarding routing the manual elevator trim cable.
On the 6A, the plans call out for it to be routed under the seat and baggage floors,
with the trim knob mounted on a center console that runs from the bottom
of the panel to the fuel valve mount. This requires the cable to form a vertical
loop from where it exits the wing spar up to where the trim knob is mounted
on the center console.
I would very much like to eliminate this loop, as well as the center console, and
mount my manual elevator trim knob on a small sub-panel along with my throttle,
mixture and carb heat controls. This would give me more leg room, and eliminate
the possibility of kicking that vertical trim cable loop. Plus, I just
don't like the looks of it as designed.
My thought is to loop the trim cable in a horizontal plane infront of the instrument
panel and run it to the aft end of the fuselage by way of under the canopy
decks ( I am building a slider). This would require me to get a longer elevator
trim cable, which I see is available by getting either part number CT-23V42-DF-2-181,
which if I read it right is 3" longer than that in the 6A kit, or
going with part number CT-23V42-DF-2-191 which is 13" longer....probably the
one to go with.
I was able to inspect a 9A that was in my airport's FBO and noticed that my desired
arrangement was present in this particular 9A. Unfortunately, I was unable
to talk with its owner/builder. Is that a design feature of all 9's?
Any other 6 builders go with this type of arrangement??
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit....slider in progress
Peshtigo, WI
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Diamondhead Flyin? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland@netdoor.com>
Subject: RV-List: Diamondhead Flyin?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Anyone in the Southeast going to the Diamondhead Mississippi flyin
tomorrow?
>
> Charlie
> RV-4 N914RV
>
Not going, Charlie, but wondered if you were going to try and make the SERFI
at Evergreen, AL in early October?
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | RE: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? Redux (very |
long)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Hi Bob et al,
I tested our harnesses today - all wires OK. I also replaced the fuel
line from gascolator to carb. Nothing wrong with it - just 9 years old.
It routes within about 1 1/4" of the exhaust pipe, which concerns me a
little, so I put an extra layer of firesleeve over it in that area. If
it was boiling the fuel occasionally, that should help, but I don't see
it as a smoking gun.
Looking in the logs, I found an incident of "forced landing due to
fluctuating rpm" at 7.2 hrs since zero time factory reman (it's at 470
hrs now). According to the log, they did most all the stuff I'm doing
and replaced the carb to boot. A pumped down exhaust lifter was then
found and replaced.
Next is a wobble test on the valves and an inspection of the lifters. If
still no joy, we'll buy a carb, but only because we can't find anything
else obviously wrong. It's gonna be a long time before I'll fly this
thing at night, that's for sure.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rcowens126@aol.com [mailto:Rcowens126@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 6:49 PM
> To: SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: Re: [SoCAL-RVlist] Carb Ice over the Santa Monicas? Redux
(very
> long)
>
> Ed,
> Yes, the tester did show both harnesses had deteriorated insulation.
>
> ____|____
> ______( / )______
> o/ \o
> Bob "Pop" Owens
> RV-6 N515L WHP
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Matco master cylinder rebuild |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 9/19/2003 3:34:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
akroguy@hotmail.com writes:
I have a leaking master cylinder on my RV8. I ordered rebuild kits (two of
them). For those with a few years of RV operation behind them, have you
found it's best to just rebuild both master cylinders every few years or do
they typically work for a long time, thus requiring rebuild only as needed?
I'd rather just do both while I'm at it if it's the best plan of action.
Brian-
This depends on why it developed a leak. I'm assuming in my response that
your master cylinder is leaking fluid out of the rod seal rather than leaking by
the piston seal.
If you have a rough rod (ouch!), the seals will just get torn up again in
short order. If the rod is good and mirror smooth, it's possible that the seal
was damaged during initial installation or was defective in some other way.
Pay particular attention to the quality of the surfaces in contact with the
seal. If I were doing this I would probably use it as an opportunity to replace
the nitrile (buna-n) O-rings with Viton but the nitrile ones work fine in the
master. Viton is really much better than nitrile for the caliper piston seal.
See you at Copperstate.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 648hrs)
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