Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:56 AM - Partnership - RV6A and C210 Greensboro NC (eregensburg)
2. 05:11 AM - Re: Ultimate C-frame (graham jones)
3. 05:32 AM - Re: SERFI? (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
4. 08:24 AM - Looking for an RV ride in Orlando... (Bill VonDane)
5. 08:48 AM - 24v to 5v plug-in adapter? (George Nuse)
6. 12:22 PM - invisible hinge on cowl oil door (Dan Checkoway)
7. 12:45 PM - Possible Freight Carrier for Quickbuild Components (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
8. 01:28 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (Ralph E. Capen)
9. 01:54 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (Pat Hatch)
10. 02:25 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (John Starn)
11. 02:28 PM - dynon magentometer (Wheeler North)
12. 02:38 PM - Master Cyl (Wheeler North)
13. 02:38 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (John Starn)
14. 03:16 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (Greg Young)
15. 03:20 PM - Re: Partnership - RV6A and C210 Greensboro NC (Dave Bristol)
16. 03:42 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (Bill Dube)
17. 03:50 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (dmedema@att.net)
18. 03:54 PM - Re: dynon magentometer (Jeff Orear)
19. 04:51 PM - Rocket (Larry Pardue)
20. 04:53 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (Terry Watson)
21. 05:11 PM - Re: Rocket ()
22. 05:49 PM - Aerobatic Stress (Lenleg@aol.com)
23. 07:13 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (RGray67968@aol.com)
24. 07:13 PM - Hartzell Prop (smoothweasel@juno.com.FORGED_JUNO_RCVD.'From'.juno.com.does.not.match.'Received'.headers (2.8 points))
25. 07:14 PM - Re: Rocket (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
26. 07:37 PM - OT: Virus/Worms (Jerry Springer)
27. 07:55 PM - need tip up canopy repair ideas (WPAerial@aol.com)
28. 07:57 PM - Re: Aerobatic Stress (Brian Denk)
29. 08:33 PM - Re: Rocket (Randy Lervold)
30. 08:50 PM - Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it! (Richard Scott)
31. 09:14 PM - Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door (Stein Bruch)
32. 09:18 PM - Re: OT: Virus/Worms (Stein Bruch)
33. 09:31 PM - New Builders Website ()
34. 11:08 PM - Re: Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it! (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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Subject: | Partnership - RV6A and C210 Greensboro NC |
--> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg <eregensburg@triad.rr.com>
I am working to save a marriage here! I have a RV6A (2 passenger limited
baggage 130 cruise)- full IFR (GPS,Dual VOR & GS, auto pilot, engine
monitor, fuel flow meter etc). I recently purchased a Cessna 210
(4+passenger + baggage + fuel 170Knot cruise)which will be full IFR (new GNS
430, 3 axis auto pilot and more). My wife is a little upset at the new
purchase. I need to find a partner for these planes. It would be ideal to
find an RV builder looking for flying time while he finishes his plane.
Partnership in the RV would run around $40K. (I would buy them out once
theirs is built.) The 210 would run $50K. Or a person could partner in both
airplanes for the best of both worlds! If anyone is interested contact me by
email at: eregensburg@triad.rr.com
Thanks
Ed Regensburg
N925RV - Greensboro NC
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Ultimate C-frame |
--> RV-List message posted by: graham jones <gratech2@bigpond.com>
I reckon the engine nacelles behind it, and what goes in to them, would be
more use to an eager RV builder - every one seems to want to put turbines on
their birds these days... After seeing the Wacko-Waco at Osh this year I can
just see a -10 with a nice fat turbine nacelle like those off each side of
the rear fuse.......... A couple of extra longerons to beef up the
structure.... No worries, Mate!... You'd get great short field performance!
Oops!... it time for my tablets again.....
See Ya
Jonesy in OZ
Definitely Do Not Archive!!!!!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "BillDube@killacycle.com"
<BillDube@killacycle.com>
>
> For those that want the "deluxe" version of a C frame riveter, check out:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2559535597&category=32718
>
> Bill Dube <LED@Killacycle.com>
> http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
I think the turn outs have been pretty good Paul. I have been the past
couple of years. Team RV will be flying again this year sometime during the
show on Saturday. The RV turnout is pretty good. I'd say 100 planes last
year, but a terrible weather pattern from the west held a bunch down. It is
definately one of the smaller EAA fly-ins. The heat was brutal last year. We
are hoping for good weather.
Mike Stewart
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Besing
Subject: RV-List: SERFI?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Anyone been to SERFI before? I was thinking of going and setting up a
booth. How's the turn out each year?
do not archive
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
Message 4
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Subject: | Looking for an RV ride in Orlando... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Hi all...
I have a buddy that has been working is butt off on a paint scheme for me that
is going to be AWESOME and I would love it if I could get him an RV ride... He
lives in Orlando...
If anyone is interested, please contact me off list...
-Bill
bill@vondane.com
Message 5
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Subject: | 24v to 5v plug-in adapter? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Nuse" <gnuse@comcast.net>
Anyone know of a cig. lighter plug adapter to plug a PDA(ipaq with GPS) with 5v
into the aircraft's 24v system?
George
Message 6
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Subject: | invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
around with on scrap:
http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would not
want to use it?
Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 7
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Subject: | Possible Freight Carrier for Quickbuild Components |
09/22/2003 03:41:42 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
Listers,
I have developed a contact for a freight carrier to move our huge crates to
the East Coast. The carrier's name is Nema Inc. and they are based in the
Atlanta GA area. My company uses them for shipping extremely valuable
freight that happens to have a similar dimension to what our quickbuilds
have. They run a weekly route up the West Coast and would have it back in
the Atlanta area a few days later. They have a warehouse in the Atlanta
area with a fork truck, so they could cross-dock onto your trailer right
there. What makes this carrier attractive for shipping aircraft is that
they are not a LTL carrier. This is a truck that is heading back to home
and will not be stopping at many terminals and beating the heck out of your
crate while switching it to different trailers from hub to hub. Nema also
has designed a crane into the roof of their trailers so that they can lift
the crate right out of the trailer and set it on your flat-bed if needed.
I have not witnessed this crane in action, so I can't vouch for its ability
to do this on a fuselage-sized crate without having to tilt the crate
during the process. I know that some of the cargo that we ship weighs over
a ton and are packaged in crates over 30' long, but we are not concerned
about keeping things level while handling.
They run a truck out of the Atlanta area up the East Coast every week as
well hitting one of our facilities in Warrendale PA and Appleton WI (Near
Oshkosh) so you may wait on this truck if you are not in a hurry for your
shipment. I can tell you that the price that they quoted me was about $300
less than what Van's said that ABF would charge for the move of my RV-8 QB
fuselage, and I have much more faith in Nema. If you are interested in
talking to them, call Mike George at 800-229-6362. Do not give them a call
if you are in an extreme hurry to receive your freight because the rate
that they will quote will assume that you are working with their regular
route structure. In my case, I will have to meet them at a rest stop so
they can drop the load on my flat-bed. If you choose to use them, please
leave feedback on The RV List for others to see. If you are like me, a
$300 freight savings helps out quite a bit. I will close by saying that I
have no financial interest in Nema. I recommend them based on the success
that I have had with them in the past in moving high-value freight.
Don Alexander
RV-8 wings almost done, QB fuse on the way in December
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
All it needs in my opinion is to spring load the hinge to the open position
and a hartwell latch........
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
> that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
> before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
> around with on scrap:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
> Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would
not
> want to use it?
>
> Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Dan,
I like your idea and your prototype oil door; however, I think the pressure
inside the cowl is quite high and your oil door will tend to bulge outward.
I was really surprised on the RV-4 how much it bulged around the fastners. I
see your possible weak point at the hinge line where air pressure will push
the door out in flight. Perhaps a little lip on this side to catch under
the cowl when closed?
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
> that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
> before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
> around with on scrap:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
> Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would
not
> want to use it?
>
> Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Your photo's look great. Flush latch, Hartwell H-5000-2, on A/S page# 179 is
what we used. Take a look at the oil door on Cessna types. They have a "U"
bend attached to the door and the other end to the hidden hinge. They open
toward the center line of the airframe but it's easy to adapt so that the
hinge side is on the front quarter. Had a proto type built for the HRII but
Gummibear was in a hurry to get airborne so we installed the hinge with the
eyes up and cut door to fit. Someday I'll get back to it either for N561FS
or an RV-10. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> All it needs in my opinion is to spring load the hinge to the open
position
> and a hartwell latch........
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the
cowl
> > that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
> > before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I
played
> > around with on scrap:
> >
> > http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
> >
> > Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would
> not
> > want to use it?
> >
> > Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | dynon magentometer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Folks, re the list provided about magnetometer locations, I don't mean to
trash it, but I found that this thing is very sensitive to any steel or
current within 12". I had it located 10 inches away diagonally from the
aileron leading edge and it was all over the place, due to the steel pipe in
the aileron.
1. In front of the horizontal stab, under the vertical stab.
Fair, but you have the steel hardware for the vert and horizontal stab, as
well as elevator horns
2. On the rear of the baggage bulkhead, top and sides
Poor, if steel or magnets are loaded into baggage area, and if slider
version then you have steel canopy frame.
3. Outboard in a wing bay
Seems like best place, as long as no major current wires nearby and in
leading edge away from aileron.
4. Behind the pilot or copilots seat, mount to the horizontal crossbar
Bad, flaps bar is steel, as well as flap motor, and baggage loading, see 2
5. Under the baggage floor skins
bad, same as 2 and 4
6. Inside my wing fairing, I have P-40/Spitfire style fairings.
bad, same as 2 and 4
7. Inside the baggage compartment
bad, same as 2 and 4, (I assume that you don't mean the forward one in an 8,
in which case if this location works then the internal unit should work.)
8. On the floorboards, just behind the pilot/copilot seats
bad, same as 2 and 4
9. On any fuselage bulkhead behind the baggage compartment
Fair, but a bitch to get to, and very hard to get exactly oriented and get
it stiff enough to not vibrate.
10. Build a shelf somewhere behind the baggage compartment hang from top
skin, or mount to bottom skin.
Same as 9
11. Inside a wing tip.
good as long as nothing else is in there
As you can see this thing is not that easy to locate, particularly if you
have a bunch of stuff in your wingtips and leading edges. Then once you find
a spot getting it matched to the main unit and mounted securly isn't that
easy either.
My notes on how I did it should be in the archives
W
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Brian,
I had the same problem on my right system, pilots pedal. There were some
rough spots on the shaft, where something had marred the shaft. Not sure if
this happened in route to me or during installation. I could not find
anything that would have caused it as installed.
But its symptoms were that it would suck in air between the copilot and
pilot's pedals every time I went upside down. It finally started leaking
fluid out, so I rebuilt it, and chucked the shaft up in a lathe and polished
it. A drill press would work for this. If it happens again I'm going to
replace the whole unit. The other three seem to be working just fine.
W
Message 13
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|
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Just another thought... Installed "L" stiffeners on underside of door. 140+
hrs AND 250K (est.)without an in flight opening or flexing. IO540 oil dip
stick is forward of the baffle in the largest flat (read flex) and highest
pressure area possible. We did fabricate a "ring" of .040 for the door to
rest on. KABONG Do Not Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
> Dan,
>
> I like your idea and your prototype oil door; however, I think the
pressure
> inside the cowl is quite high and your oil door will tend to bulge
outward.
> I was really surprised on the RV-4 how much it bulged around the fastners.
I
> see your possible weak point at the hinge line where air pressure will
push
> the door out in flight. Perhaps a little lip on this side to catch under
> the cowl when closed?
>
> Pat Hatch
> RV-4
> RV-6
> RV-7 QB (Building)
> Vero Beach, FL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the
cowl
> > that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
> > before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I
played
> > around with on scrap:
> >
> > http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
> >
> > Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would
> not
> > want to use it?
> >
> > Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Nothing wrong with the design, it's been done many times. I used p/n
11205A36 from http://www.mcmaster.com rather than roll my own. And I got the
p/n from someone else. A friend used one very wide version of yours rather
than 2 pieces. Keep in mind the cowling is not flat and the hinge lines of
the 2 pieces should be co-linear to prevent binding. It's also got to clear
the baffling and dipstick depending on its orientation.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil
> door on the cowl that will make the hinge invisible. I'd
> like to get some feedback on it before I commit to it. Here
> are some photos of the design, which I played around with on scrap:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
> Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason
> why I would not want to use it?
>
> Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Re: Partnership - RV6A and C210 Greensboro NC |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
eregensburg wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg <eregensburg@triad.rr.com>
>
>
> I have a RV6A (2 passenger limited
>baggage 130 cruise....
>
I sure hope that's a typo - otherwise you have some major problems!
Dave, RV6 165+ knot curise
do not archive
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 12:21 PM 9/22/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
>that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
>before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
>around with on scrap:
>
>http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
>
>Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would not
>want to use it?
I would be concerned about aerodynamic loads. I was chatting with
a local RVer, and he showed me how his cowl bowed at the top rear where he
decided not to install a single fastener. (It is installed now.)
The arms are much weaker and more compliant than direct attachment
to the hinge. Thus, the door might bow in or out as the arms flex.
You could put a lip and a fastener (like a cam lock) on the hinge
edge of the door to be sure it didn't bow in or out. However, if you did
that, why have the hinge at all?
Message 17
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|
Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
I can't tell for sure on what side of the access
door you have the hinge (i.e. top, bottom, front or
back). I basically copied Laird Owen's design which
has the hinges on the front. It works fine but I
almost put the hinge point to far forward which
would have been inside the baffles. As it is, it
just clears the rear baffle on the engine.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: dynon magentometer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Wheeler et al:
I spent the better part of yesterday building a shelf patterned after Dan
Checkoway's design he had for his magnetometer. Go to
http://www.rvproject.com/20030806.html
to have a look at his design.
I made one modification to it that seems to eliminate Wheeler's concern that
it would be a pain to get to if it is mounted on F607, in a 6A in my case.
My shelf is hinged at its trailing edge so that adjustments in pitch
orientation can be made precisely. My first concern about this design was
that the hinge would vibrate, but it appears to be quite stable. I used the
same size as for the flaps.
I plan to rivet the vertical portion of the tray that is supported by F607
without the rest of the tray on....in other words I'll pull the hinge pin.
That way I can rivet it in place, oriented parallel to the bottom flange of
my instrument panel (my Dynon is not mounted yet). .
The Magnetometer will attach to the horizontal part of the tray such that it
is parallel to the aft edge/hinge of the tray. This in turn makes it
parallel to F607, taking care of orientation in yaw, assuming that my panel
is still perpendicular to the long axis of the airplane as it was
constructed.
The forward angle support can be clamped to the top rib extending from F606
( sorry, don't have parts numbers infront of me) and oriented until it is
level with the long axis of the Dynon. Once the aft top skin is riveted on,
the only thing I will have to crawl back there to do is slip my hinge pin
back in and get the tray level in the long axis, then drill through pilot
holes in the forward support into the fuselage top rib. If I can't get in
there, at least my 12 year old son can! I'll loan him out for a price. ;
)
The only ferrous material nearby is the steel cable for the shoulder harness
anchors, but seems they are more than 12" away, and should not be a factor.
I opted for this location as I have landing lights/wigwags in both wings, as
well as nav/strobes in both wings. It also just seems easier to get it
oriented to the Dynon if it is in the fuselage. Just my opinion...FWIW..
If anyone wants pictures of what I came up with, let me know and I will
shoot some out to you. Again, it is just a modification of Dan's design.
Hope this helps anyone. Comments and accusations welcome........
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: dynon magentometer
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Folks, re the list provided about magnetometer locations, I don't mean to
> trash it, but I found that this thing is very sensitive to any steel or
> current within 12". I had it located 10 inches away diagonally from the
> aileron leading edge and it was all over the place, due to the steel pipe
in
> the aileron.
>
>
> 1. In front of the horizontal stab, under the vertical stab.
>
> Fair, but you have the steel hardware for the vert and horizontal stab, as
> well as elevator horns
>
> 2. On the rear of the baggage bulkhead, top and sides
>
> Poor, if steel or magnets are loaded into baggage area, and if slider
> version then you have steel canopy frame.
>
> 3. Outboard in a wing bay
>
> Seems like best place, as long as no major current wires nearby and in
> leading edge away from aileron.
>
> 4. Behind the pilot or copilots seat, mount to the horizontal crossbar
>
> Bad, flaps bar is steel, as well as flap motor, and baggage loading, see 2
>
> 5. Under the baggage floor skins
>
> bad, same as 2 and 4
>
> 6. Inside my wing fairing, I have P-40/Spitfire style fairings.
>
> bad, same as 2 and 4
>
> 7. Inside the baggage compartment
>
> bad, same as 2 and 4, (I assume that you don't mean the forward one in an
8,
> in which case if this location works then the internal unit should work.)
>
> 8. On the floorboards, just behind the pilot/copilot seats
>
> bad, same as 2 and 4
>
> 9. On any fuselage bulkhead behind the baggage compartment
>
> Fair, but a bitch to get to, and very hard to get exactly oriented and get
> it stiff enough to not vibrate.
>
> 10. Build a shelf somewhere behind the baggage compartment hang from top
> skin, or mount to bottom skin.
>
> Same as 9
>
> 11. Inside a wing tip.
>
> good as long as nothing else is in there
>
> As you can see this thing is not that easy to locate, particularly if you
> have a bunch of stuff in your wingtips and leading edges. Then once you
find
> a spot getting it matched to the main unit and mounted securly isn't that
> easy either.
>
> My notes on how I did it should be in the archives
>
> W
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@carlsbad.net>
Listers:
This Sunday I was waiting around at Palomar-McClellan Airport at Carlsbad,
California. The weather was 300 overcast and I was waiting around for the
coastal layer to break up so I could return home. Instrument problems
limited me to VFR.
As soon as the tower started reporting 300 scattered a bunch of planes
started taxiing out. I was after a Rocket and a C172. The actual weather
was 300 broken to overcast on the west side of the airport and clear on the
east side. The very sharp tower local controller was clearing people for
early turns east.
The Rocket didn't need no a'stinkn early turn. He launched and just shot up
to clear the clouds within 1,500 to 2,000 feet off the departure end.
The 172 didn't do well at all. He flew into the clouds because of a
non-aggressive downwind turn.
I might have had a chance to punch up if light, but with my sister and a
bunch of traveling luggage on board I went for the early turn and was able
to make it before the clouds.
Why can't we all have four airplanes? A J-3, an RV, a Rocket and a
Citation, as the situation dictates?
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 20
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|
Subject: | invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I remember reading awhile back about a cowl oil door that hinged in. When
stopped, it could be pushed down (open) to allow the hot air from the engine
to escape. With the engine running, the air pressure held it closed. It
must be in the archives somewhere. The only obvious problem I can think of
would be rain while parked. The hinge would be inside.
Terry
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
Dear Larry,
I think the main limiting factor to your very basic question is MONEY, but then
I am not a 100% sure?
Konrad
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Why can't we all have four airplanes? A J-3, an RV, a Rocket and a
Citation, as the situation dictates?
Do not archive Larry Pardue in Carlsbad, NM.
( . . . but rather somewhere else)
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://www.carlsbadnm.com/n5lp/index.htm
Message 22
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Subject: | Aerobatic Stress |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
I am out on the road ...does anyone have the stress limits for the 8A ???
--
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
145 hrs
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
at.a.big.ISP@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Hi Dan,
I have a 'flush' mounted door on my Six. So, speaking from 'experience': with
your current plan your door will NOT stay closed in flight on the hinged end
(we'll forget about the latching mechanism for now since you didn't show one).
The 'low pressure' air behind the air baffles WILL blow your door part way
open and the 'hinge arms' will bend and scratch all your pretty new paint. The
solution is to turn your hinges 90deg so the strength of the arm comes into
play. Just use your 'arms' as templates and draw a new 'arm' on a piece of 060
(you want the door to stay closed...right?). Then you'll have to make little
032. angles to attach the arms to the door.
I've got a few pics I can mail ya' if it will help.
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - took me a while to get my flush
door working but I'd make another one in a heartbeat - no visible hinge or latch
I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
around with on scrap:
http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would not
want to use it?
Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 24
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|
(2.8 points)
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com FORGED_JUNO_RCVD (2.8 points)
'From' juno.com does not match 'Received' headers
Does anyone out there know what the combination of
stud,washer,nut and locking arrangement is used when mounting a Hartzell
to a O-320 B3B? Also I have one aluminum 12 in. spinner and a 12 in.
fiberglass spinner that I would like to sell/trade for a 13 in.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
RV-4 Finishing
The best thing to hit the internet in years - Juno SpeedBand!
Surf the web up to FIVE TIMES FASTER!
Message 25
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|
at.a.big.ISP@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 09/22/2003 4:55:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
n5lp@carlsbad.net writes:
Why can't we all have four airplanes? A J-3, an RV, a Rocket and a
Citation, as the situation dictates?
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Hi All,
After the rides I've had in a Rocket, why would you need the other three?
I seem to recall seeing a normal speed control lever on the left with a
normal BSR in the center.
(BSR = Building Size Regulator)
Do Not Archive
Jim Ayers
Flight tests completed on two Hartzell props and an MT 3 blade Propeller.
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Anyone else on this list getting hit with hundreds of virus and worms?
My Anti virus is about to be burn up it is
working so hard. :( I am checking a couple times a day for virus's and
don't seem to have any on my computer
but it is really getting irritating. It is mostly crap that says it is
updates from MS etc. I don't know how to stop them
other than changing email address. I have scanned with both Norton and
AVG and both say none on my system,
All email I send out are checked for virus before being sent.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 27
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|
Subject: | need tip up canopy repair ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
I have 170 hours on my RV6A. after coming back from Reno air race I found the
canopy had separated at the leading edge from the fiberglass on my tip up.
Any ideas how I should repair this?
Jerry Wilken
N699WP
Albany Oregon
541-926-8316
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Re: Aerobatic Stress |
LIMITED_TIME_ONLY
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>
>I am out on the road ...does anyone have the stress limits for the 8A ???
>
>--
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, NC N910LL
>145 hrs
>
Len,
Should be +6/-3 at no higher than max aerobatic gross weight....I think it's
1550 lbs, unless you have the slightly modified spar that Van's made well
after my wing kit. Bumped it up 50 pounds maybe.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> Jim Ayers
> Flight tests completed on two Hartzell props and an MT 3 blade Propeller.
And the results?
Randy Lervold
Message 30
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|
Subject: | Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
So I put about 300 clecos in my HS, then drilled, pulling & moving clecos
as I did so. Must have squeezed those things about 600 times. Next 3 days
I couldn't use my thumbs; arthritis at the base of them flared up from
repeatedly squeezing the cleco pliers.
Turns out The Yard (yardtools.com) has a pneumatic cleco tool on sale for
$25. Sold!
This thing works great! Faster than the pliers & holds the cleco straight
so it doesn't get cocked.
Needs about 70 pounds of air; with less it doesn't fully compress the cleco.
Dick Scott
RV-9A, Emp.
Message 31
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|
Subject: | invisible hinge on cowl oil door |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Dan,
I think you have the general shape of the hinge right, but I would make them
just the opposite. Meaning, carve the hinges out of a solid piece of thick
Aluminum, instead of bending a strap. The straps are somewhat prone to
stretching, and I've seen a similar setup that had to be re-done because the
straps just stretched. Think of the hinges on an old car glove box, or if
you need a picture, the same style I used on my flush door glove box
(http://www.steinair.com/N64YU.htm, and have seen on multiple oil doors.
Built that way, they can't stretch out and let the door come loose.
Just my 2 cents, not gospel.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Subject: RV-List: invisible hinge on cowl oil door
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm playing around with a design for the hinge on the oil door on the cowl
that will make the hinge invisible. I'd like to get some feedback on it
before I commit to it. Here are some photos of the design, which I played
around with on scrap:
http://www.rvproject.com/oildoordesign.html
Do you see any potential snags with this design? Any reason why I would not
want to use it?
Or...are there any simpler tricks for making the hinge invisible?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 32
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Jerry,
You should feel flattered. The more of those MSFT messages you are getting,
means more people have your email address in their address book!!
Unfortuneatly it means that most of your "friends" that have your email
address, are not so fluent about opening obvious virus emails. Once again,
this "new" worm only spreads if ignorant people don't use anti-virus
software, or open another infected attachment.
If it's any consolation, I've been getting around 350 emails a day that
Norton is deleting the attachment. Luckily I just setup a filter that sends
them to "la la land" before I see them, so unless I check, I don't really
see them.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jerry Springer
Subject: RV-List: OT: Virus/Worms
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Anyone else on this list getting hit with hundreds of virus and worms?
My Anti virus is about to be burn up it is
working so hard. :( I am checking a couple times a day for virus's and
don't seem to have any on my computer
but it is really getting irritating. It is mostly crap that says it is
updates from MS etc. I don't know how to stop them
other than changing email address. I have scanned with both Norton and
AVG and both say none on my system,
All email I send out are checked for virus before being sent.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 33
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|
Subject: | New Builders Website |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
I recently finished the first draft of my website. If anyone has extra time and
would like to check it out, I would appreciate any feedback.
http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
Thanks,
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
Do Not Archive
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 34
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Subject: | Re: Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dick,
Early in the beginning stage of building my 6-A I encountered difficulties
with the cleco pliers similar to what you describe, (very uncomfortable).
I used some thick wall heat shrink on the handles of my cleco pliers and the
problem went away. A side benefit was that the pliers are much less slippery
in the hand (read less likely to be dropped). Also, with the improved grip
in the hand, the clecos are easier to control therefore less fatiguing.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Scott" <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pneumatic cleco tool--Some of us gotta have it!
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
> So I put about 300 clecos in my HS, then drilled, pulling & moving clecos
> as I did so. Must have squeezed those things about 600 times. Next 3
days
> I couldn't use my thumbs; arthritis at the base of them flared up from
> repeatedly squeezing the cleco pliers.
>
> Turns out The Yard (yardtools.com) has a pneumatic cleco tool on sale for
> $25. Sold!
>
> This thing works great! Faster than the pliers & holds the cleco straight
> so it doesn't get cocked.
>
> Needs about 70 pounds of air; with less it doesn't fully compress the
cleco.
>
> Dick Scott
> RV-9A, Emp.
>
>
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