Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Re: Gyros 8 deg tilt question. (Dana Overall)
2. 06:41 AM - Re: virii (Jeff Dowling)
3. 07:45 AM - question on windscreen fairing for slider (C J Heitman)
4. 09:46 AM - Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider (Richard Dudley)
5. 10:28 AM - EFIS & IFR (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
6. 10:57 AM - Resolver vs Converter education (Ralph E. Capen)
7. 11:17 AM - washers, forward elevator pushrod end (Dan Checkoway)
8. 11:37 AM - EFIS & IFR (pauls@kc.rr.com)
9. 11:47 AM - Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end (Chris Good)
10. 12:30 PM - Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider (Charles Rowbotham)
11. 01:10 PM - Gyros and 8 deg panel question. (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
12. 01:49 PM - Re: need tip up canopy repair ideas (Eustace Bowhay)
13. 02:15 PM - remote engine heater (Wayne Pedersen)
14. 02:42 PM - Re: EFIS & IFR (Stanley Blanton)
15. 03:01 PM - Re: EFIS & IFR (Dana Overall)
16. 03:03 PM - Re: remote engine heater (Alex Peterson)
17. 03:03 PM - Re: [rv8list] Buyer beware (a bit long) (Gert)
18. 03:05 PM - Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider (Alex Peterson)
19. 03:12 PM - Re: EFIS & IFR (Mike Robertson)
20. 03:18 PM - Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end (Mike Robertson)
21. 03:24 PM - Re: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. (Duberstein, Allen)
22. 03:25 PM - Re: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. (Duberstein, Allen)
23. 03:29 PM - Re: EFIS & IFR (Kevin Horton)
24. 03:33 PM - Re: Resolver vs Converter education (Chris Good)
25. 03:42 PM - ANR Headsets (Crosley, Rich)
26. 04:33 PM - Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end (Elsa & Henry)
27. 04:34 PM - what i did for tip up repair (WPAerial@aol.com)
28. 04:47 PM - H10-40 Headsets for sale (Sold) (Fred Stucklen)
29. 05:31 PM - New Ray Allen G307 stick grips (Charlie Kuss)
30. 06:15 PM - Re: New Ray Allen G307 stick grips (Dougpsr@aol.com)
31. 06:18 PM - RV-6A Check out (REALILY@aol.com)
32. 07:01 PM - Re: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. (Alex Peterson)
33. 07:04 PM - Re: RV-6A Check out (eregensburg)
34. 08:22 PM - Re: ANR Headsets (Nick N)
35. 09:36 PM - Composite Workshop/Fly-market - Marietta, GA (Kyle Boatright)
36. 09:40 PM - Re: ANR Headsets (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Gyros 8 deg tilt question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Bill, there is a ton of info in the archives on just this subject. With
that said, you will find a very good post in there that documents the small
amount of error that will be present in your TC mounted on a tilted panel.
Type in tilted turn coordinator.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Knock on wood, but I dont get any spam.
Jeff
Im using earthlink if that matters.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
Subject: RV-List: virii
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" <rv8tor@lazy8.net>
>
> As an experiment, I dropped my old subscription to this list, and
re-subscribed under a new email address. During the past two months, I did
not post a single message, and I received no spam or virii. Then, yesterday
I posted a message, and last night I received 6 virus messages and 2 pleas
for help from Nigerian nationals.
>
> My own conclusion is that people are "mining" this list for valid
addresses. How Matt can stop this is beyond me. I guess it is just the cost
of sharing knowledge and opinions with our fellow builders.
>
> John Huft
> RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO
> www.lazy8.net/rv8.html
> see you at Copper State and LOE
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | question on windscreen fairing for slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block
the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen? I'm
wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I
couldn't find an answer in the archives.)
Chris Heitman
Dousman WI
RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
ready to install windscreen
http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
---
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Chris,
There are tints available from automotive paint and boat supplies that
can be added to epoxy to color it. I've used a black tint I got from a
boat supply store for the first layers of fiberglass on my windscreen
front fairing and over the top to avoid the regular fiberglass color.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing details (there are lots!)
C J Heitman wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
>
> Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block
> the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen? I'm
> wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I
> couldn't find an answer in the archives.)
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> ready to install windscreen
> http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
> ---
>
Message 5
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"Rv9-List@Matronics. Com" <rv9-list@matronics.com>,
"Rv8-List@Matronics. Com" <rv8-list@matronics.com>,
"Rv7-List@Matronics. Com" <rv7-list@matronics.com>,
"Rv6-List@Matronics. Com" <rv6-list@matronics.com>
SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
IFR.
I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
then please let me know.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Message 6
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<avionics-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Resolver vs Converter education |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external CDI.
That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the whatever brand
CDI.
I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which takes
both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary CDI. The Narco
NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as inputs.
The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be calibrated
and should not be switched. These instructions also state that supplemental
CDI's should use converter signals only.
I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different type of
signals....
Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of signals be
used without the other?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Soooooo many little wires
Message 7
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| Subject: | washers, forward elevator pushrod end |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd
elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans
call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched between
the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really access
that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in
no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real
bear to install.
I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold
each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so
confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of
the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of it
with my hands or a tool.
Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks
I'd love to hear about 'em!
Thanks,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "pauls@kc.rr.com" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
"even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
IFR. "
WHAT ??
I am not to sure where you get this type of information, but if I were you,
not only would I not listen to this type of mumbo jumbo, I sure wouldn't be
repeating it!
Paul
do not archieve
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Dan,
I've found that using a 2-3" length of hinge pin instead of the bolt is much easier
to get all the necessary washers in place. Then push the pin out with the
bolt, wiggling the pin about as necessary to get it through everything.
Chris Good, http://rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A 600 hrs.
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:13:59
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd
>elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans
>call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched between
>the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really access
>that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in
>no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real
>bear to install.
>
>I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold
>each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so
>confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of
>the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of it
>with my hands or a tool.
>
>Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks
>I'd love to hear about 'em!
>
>Thanks,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Chris,
On our 8A we painted the inside of the fairing - flat black to off set light
reflections.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (200+ hours)
>From: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: question on windscreen fairing for slider
>Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 09:37:37 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
>
>Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block
>the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen?
>I'm
>wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I
>couldn't find an answer in the archives.)
>
>Chris Heitman
>Dousman WI
>RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
>ready to install windscreen
>http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html
>
>
>---
>
>
FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Gyros and 8 deg panel question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
Bill Higgins
RV-6
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: need tip up canopy repair ideas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Jerry::
In the original manual for my 6 (1990) it was optional regarding the
installation of the pop rivets (CS4-4) through the canopy base molding. For
the 6A it calls up the installation of these rivets at 4 inch spacing, was
wondering if you have those rivets installed. Although it may have happened
I have not heard of one separating with the rivets installed.
If you care to contact me I have some ideas on a repair.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: <WPAerial@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: need tip up canopy repair ideas
> --> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
>
> I have 170 hours on my RV6A. after coming back from Reno air race I found
the
> canopy had separated at the leading edge from the fiberglass on my tip up.
> Any ideas how I should repair this?
>
>
> Jerry Wilken
> N699WP
> Albany Oregon
> 541-926-8316
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | remote engine heater |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
Winter is coming and I am looking at a remote control box that turns on your
engine heater -
see link http://www.goflying.cc/index.html
Anybody have any experience with this RS Beeper Box ? or other suggestions
and suppliers.
Thanks
Wayne RV7a - fuse
Southern Alberta
---
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stanley Blanton" <stanb@door.net>
It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
IFR.
I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
then please let me know.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Lot's has been written and is in the archives about this subject. Ask your
FAA or DAR person to show you the reg that requires TSO instruments for part
pi oiperations. Then you can post it here for the rest of us. This issue is
also discussed on the Bluse Mountain site.
They are not even required to sign off the installation. Typically your
operating limitations read something like ".. approved for VFR only unless
equipped for IFR.." It's up to you to make the determination.
Stan Blanton
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I have to say the notion that any non TSO'd instrumentation precludes one
from legally flying IFR is nonsense. I am not saying you are wrong, I am
only saying the information you have been provided is extremely suspect.
The regs state what is required equipment onboard. The regs furthur state
that one must have equipment on board appropriate for the ground facilities
to be used for IFR operations. In the case of IFR, a certified IFR GPS and
certified nav head are the appropriate units for the ground facilities.
I have certainly not be able to find any documentation which dictates non
ground facility equipment
be TSO'd equipment. It sound like you have talked with someone shooting off
the hip.
Another point that certainly makes me think the guy may be shooting a little
lower than the hip, and about ninety degress over, is your examiner will not
sign your experimental off as IFR to start with anyway. If you installed
the current and certified equipment appropriate for the ground facilities to
be used, you have to take the airplane up and verifiy the equipment's
working condition then you sign the log book to indicate such.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "pauls@kc.rr.com" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: RV-List@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: EFIS & IFR
>Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 14:34:00 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "pauls@kc.rr.com" <pauls@kc.rr.com>
>
>
>"even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
>IFR. "
>
>
>WHAT ??
>I am not to sure where you get this type of information, but if I were you,
>not only would I not listen to this type of mumbo jumbo, I sure wouldn't be
>repeating it!
>
>Paul
>do not archieve
>
>
High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local
service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | remote engine heater |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> Winter is coming and I am looking at a remote control box
> that turns on your engine heater - see link
> http://www.goflying.cc/index.html
>
> Anybody have any
> experience with this RS Beeper Box ? or other suggestions and
> suppliers.
>
> Thanks
>
> Wayne RV7a - fuse
> Southern Alberta
Wayne,
I hooked a line break thermostat on to the end of an extension cord. I
drop the whole thermostat end of the cord into the oil door, and plug
the engine heater (mine has a sump heater and cylinder heater bands)
into this cord. I set it at about 50F, and insulate the cowl well. I
also wedge a piece of foam rubber into the cooling air exit area. I
leave this on all the time during the winter, and I suspect the duty
cycle is not too high. I am quite happy with this arrangement, as the
year before I had it hooked to a telephone apparatus, and I always had
to plan to call the hangar the night before I planned to fly. I'd be
surprised if it used $10/month electricity.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] Buyer beware (a bit long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
As am update, I finally got hold of the new owner (?) of moneeymart, no
I never got a call back, who informed me they would honor (grudgingly)
the published price.
Gert wrote:
> Hi Folks
>
> Today I went looking for oil on the internet. A friend who has done a
> big favor requested I don't pay him money but get engine oil for him to
> defer costs. He requested Phillips X/C 20W50.
>
> I searched the net using google and my quest led me to:
> http://www.mooneymart.com/ShopSite/engine_accessories.html
>
> they had the best rate if one considered also the shipping charges. I
> duly ordered 2 cases and stuck them on my credit card. In return the
> website made a receipt for me. on reading the receipt I found an error,
> was my mistake.
>
> Called the number on the web site and was told that the prices on the
> website are wrong, that the price on my receipt was wrong, matter of
> fact, I was told there are warnings on their website that the prices are
> wrong and that the website was 'down'.
>
> When told that I found their site through google, the person I talked to
> admitted that I would not see the warnings, which after all are on a
> different page. He was aware of this problem. He had no answer as to why
> his transaction server was up and running, charging credit cards and
> wrong pricing, if the website was really 'down'. ( it merrily acepted my
> credit card info ). I was then connected to another person who offered
> the same oil for about a dollar a bottle more, making it about the most
> expensive oil around and that they are changing ownership. I was told
> that the 'manager' or new owner would call me back.
> Of course, I never got a call back, I tried several times to call the
> supplied number with no success. I will call my credit card company, and
> put a stop on the payment. I called the better business bureau, they
> were very interested as it would be both interstate commerce and wire
> fraud if my credit card would be charged.
>
> Now, to me, an analogy would be to go to macdonalds, order food from the
> menu, pay and get a receipt. then whilst you wait for your tray to be
> filled, the manager tells you that you can't have your food because the
> prices on the menu board and charged by the person behind the counter
> were wrong and by the way if you had come into macdonalds through the
> other door you could have read the notice that the prices displayed are
> wrong. please pay extra or go away.
>
> I don't expect mooneymart to part the red sea for me, nor would I want
> to see a struggeling aviation shop to go under. I would have liked at
> least a confirmation that the transaction can not be consumed and that
> my credit card will not be charged, so far I have neither. I really
> don't want an appology, just a reasurance.
>
>
> There is a silver lining, the next best price I found, at
> www.stylesaviation.com, looked to good to be true too. 12 bottles bought
> separate would be cheaper than buying the same 12 in a case. Sent a
> quick email, and sure enough, the pricing on the website was old for the
> separate bottles.
>
> HOWEVER, I received a nice thank you email and was told that Styles
> Aviation stood by their pricing and would honor the website pricing at
> least today to give me a chance to buy the oil at the wrong price via
> the website.
>
> I duly ordered my oil from Styles Aviation and got a good rate on
> shipping too.
>
> I am in no way related to either website, nor have I done business with
> either before, I'll know however that I'll be back shopping at Styles
> Aviation, just for the fact that they honored their published pricing.
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 18
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| Subject: | question on windscreen fairing for slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the
> windscreen to block the view of the backside of the bond area
> at the base of the windscreen? I'm wondering if I should
> paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I couldn't
> find an answer in the archives.)
>
> Chris Heitman
> Dousman WI
> RV-9A N94ME (reserved)
> ready to install windscreen
I painted mine with flat black spray paint from the hardware store.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
OK, Time to jump in here. There is nothing in the regs requiring the
instruments in an
Amateur-Built aircraft to be TSO'd. There are some that say they must meet
the requirements for a TSO but that is different. I have gone round and
round on this issue with several people and they have ALL so far had to
agree with this. There is nothing in 91.205 about TSO'd instruments.
NOW, let's quickly talk the other side. Your friendly neighborhood FAA
Inspector or DAR does have to sign off your aircraft in your logbook. He is
saying that it meets the requirements for the certificate sought. He is
taking on a pretty big responsibility and may not be familiar with some
instruments/systems that are not TSO'd (like the Dynon EFIS D-10).
Therefore he may not be confortable with signing that off for IFR. If that
does happen and you don't like the respose you are getting from him/her,
then bump it up to their superviser. You can do that all the way up to the
Administrator if you so desire.
If you have any questions feel free to drop me a line directly and we can
talk.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List@Matronics. Com" <rv-list@matronics.com>,
>"Rv9-List@Matronics. Com" <rv9-list@matronics.com>, "Rv8-List@Matronics.
>Com" <rv8-list@matronics.com>, "Rv7-List@Matronics. Com"
><rv7-list@matronics.com>, "Rv6-List@Matronics. Com"
><rv6-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: EFIS & IFR
>Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:28:09 -0600 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
><noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
>It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
>and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
>sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
>positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
>equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
>positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
>IFR.
>
>I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
>no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
>experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
>who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
>then please let me know.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
>
>
Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month
(depending on the local service providers in your area).
https://broadband.msn.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Have you tried a piece od .020 safety wire or fishing line yet? If you
haven't thread the line thru the control yoke, then the washer, the rod end,
the other washer, then the other side of the control yoke. Once all
threaded pull on both ends of the line and most times everything will pop
into place enough to put a tapered pin punch on one end to further line up
the mass. Once the line is out and the puch is in you can tehn slide a bolt
in, pushing the pin punch out. This has worked for me several times when
nothing else would.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: washers, forward elevator pushrod end
>Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:13:59 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd
>elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans
>call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched
>between
>the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really
>access
>that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in
>no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real
>bear to install.
>
>I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold
>each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so
>confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of
>the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of
>it
>with my hands or a tool.
>
>Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks
>I'd love to hear about 'em!
>
>Thanks,
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local
service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Gyros and 8 deg panel question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein@intel.com>
Nope...just the DG.
Allen Duberstein
ODC Processor Architecture
503-712-2323
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BillRVSIX@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question.
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the
artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn
coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
Bill Higgins
RV-6
==
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 22
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| Subject: | Gyros and 8 deg panel question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duberstein, Allen" <allen.duberstein@intel.com>
SO next try....it's the AH that needs to be changed. If you don't alter
it you appear to be flying uphill all the time.
Sorry for the goof on previous mail
allen
Allen Duberstein
ODC Processor Architecture
503-712-2323
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
BillRVSIX@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question.
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the
artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn
coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
Bill Higgins
RV-6
==
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
><noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
>It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative
>and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not
>sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to
>positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or
>equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA
>positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly
>IFR.
>
>I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is
>no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in
>experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR
>who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use,
>then please let me know.
>
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Noel Simmons
Where does it say that an FAA or DAR signature is needed? Don't the
standard Operating Limitations simply say something to the effect of
"Aircraft restricted to day VFR unless equipped in accordance with FAR
91.XXX", where 91.XXX lists the equipment requirements for night or
IFR. So it is up to the pilot to decide whether the aircraft equipment
meets the requirements of FAR 91. Why make it more complicated than
that? By all means exercise good judgement and common sense when you
decide whether the aircraft is suitably equipped or not, but don't try to
fight needless bureaucratic battles.
Kevin Horton
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Resolver vs Converter education |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Ralph,
If you have the choice, use the resolver output rather than the converter. If
you have to use the converter output on the SL30, you lose the ability to monitor
the radial on the standby VOR frequency.
Unfortunately, I chose a KI-209 CDI head before realizing this :-(
Chris Good, http://rv.supermatrix.com
West Bend, WI
RV-6A 600 hrs
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:53:06
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Fellow listers,
>
>My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external CDI.
That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the whatever brand
CDI.
>
>I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which takes
both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary CDI. The Narco
NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as inputs.
>
>The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be calibrated
and should not be switched. These instructions also state that supplemental
CDI's should use converter signals only.
>
>I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different type of
signals....
>
>Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of signals
be used without the other?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>Soooooo many little wires
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
Message 25
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I am getting ready to buy ANR headsets. What is everyone happy with?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Rich Crosley
RV-8 engine & finish stuff
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Dan,
A trick I used was to cut a strip of scrap .025" aluminum, say, 5/8" wide,
length to suit and slot the end of it slightly narrower than the diameter of
the washer and file it so that you can snap it into the slot and it stays in
place (you can persuade it with a drop super glue if you wish) and then feed
the washer into the gap between the parts and feed the bolt through it. Then
it's easy to pull the "tool" out.You can bend and shape this "tool" to suit
your access needs.
You will find some other places that a similar "tool" can be useful, one is
installing the aileron hinge and push-rod bolts which are hard to get to
because the outboard end of the flap is in the way, but for that "tool", I
cut the slot on the side of the end of the strip to get the required access.
A similar "tool" can be made to hold nuts.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 27
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| Subject: | what i did for tip up repair |
--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
thanx everyone,
ken at vans thought best to cut off old fairing and start over. that is what
i've done. i have a pretty large gap between canopy and deck, so this time i
have filled in from inside to make the canopy sit in a channel. i feel a lot
better about this.
do not archive
jerry wilken
n699wp
albany oregon
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | H10-40 Headsets for sale (Sold) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
The headses have been sold....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs
Time: 05:45:32 AM PST US
From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Subject: H10-40 Headsets for sale
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC"
<Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Listers,
I have two H10-40 headsets that I am no longer using, and would like
to
sell. Both are a few years old, but in excellent condition. One has a
head
pad and gel ear muffs. Both have foam mike filters.
I'm asking $150.00 each, or $275.00 for both. Anybody interested
should
contact me off the list at the email address below.
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs
Message 29
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| Subject: | New Ray Allen G307 stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
Has anyone purchased the new stick grips from Ray Allen Co. yet? What is your
opinion of them?
Charlie Kuss
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: New Ray Allen G307 stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dougpsr@aol.com
Charlie, what is web address for Ray Allen? How is your project coming? Has
Eric flown yet? We are putting our 8 in the paint shop the end of next month.
Sure be glad when it is done.
Ya'll take care.
Doug Preston
Message 31
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: REALILY@aol.com
from; Realily@aol.com
Hi all,
My son Marc, who lives in Tallahassee Florida needs to get 10 hours
dual with a CFI in an RV-6A,.... Does anyone know of an RV-6A owner, who lives
within a reasonable distance from Tallahassee, who is also a CFI, that can
get this done?
Thanks
Real Dupuis
RV-6A Orlando Fl..
realily@aol.com
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Gyros and 8 deg panel question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> -----Or
>
> SO next try....it's the AH that needs to be changed. If you
> don't alter it you appear to be flying uphill all the time.
>
I don't believe this is the problem with using a non 8 degree tilt gyro
in our panels; if it were, one need only reset the little airplane. The
problem with a non tilt gyro is the various errors which will occur
during turns and acceleration/deceleration. Gyros, like everything
else, have compromises. One is that there are inherent errors that
occur, for example, during turns. If you watch closely, and execute a
180 turn, you will notice a slight error on a AH gyro after stopping the
turn. This error is likely quite small, but will be bigger if you are
in an 8 degree climb (or have a non tilt gyro - same thing). I don't
know how much the relative errors are in the two cases.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-6A Check out |
--> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg <eregensburg@triad.rr.com>
I have an RV6A in Greensboro, NC and a CFI who will give transition
training. If interested reply of line to my email
eregensburg@triad.rr.com
Ed N925RV
>On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 21:18:14 -0400 (EDT) REALILY@aol.com wrote.
>--> RV-List message posted by: REALILY@aol.com
>
>from; Realily@aol.com
>
>Hi all,
>
> My son Marc, who lives in Tallahassee Florida needs to get 10 hours
>dual with a CFI in an RV-6A,.... Does anyone know of an RV-6A owner, who
lives
>within a reasonable distance from Tallahassee, who is also a CFI, that can
>get this done?
>
> Thanks
>
>Real Dupuis
>RV-6A Orlando Fl..
>realily@aol.com
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
Really depends on what your preference / budget is. My first set is a
Headsets Inc. conversion for my DC 10-30's. Inexpensive ($250 ish),
easy to install, works as advertised, overall I'm very happy with the
kit. Takes 1 9v battery which lasts (if you remember to turn it off,
the new kits have a auto off feature) about 15-20 hours. My only
complaint with them was that my head would start to feel squeezed after
about 2 hours. This was in no way related to the conversion, but rather
a typical DC feature.
At Sun-N-Fun this spring I bought a pair of Lightspeed G3 Thirty's. WAY
comfortable! I can wear these all day with no problem. Battery life is
about double with two AA's. The G3's have Cell phone and Music input,
which I thought would be a neat toy at the time, but find invaluable
now. The ability to plug my MP3 player directly into the headset has
been great on those long cross countries, as the Cherokee I fly now does
not have a music input on the intercom. Cell Phone input... I really
didn't' think I would use this. I was wrong. Getting a Clearance from
FSS from the run up area is now a non-issue. No more straining to hear
them over the cockpit noise, and no more running from the FBO jumping in
the airplane trying to make a Void time.
I'm VERY happy with my Lightspeed's and hard pressed to buy anything
else.
Nick
Disclaimer: I'm in no way affiliated with either ANR Inc.
(http://www.headsetsinc.com/) or Lightspeed
(http://www.anrheadsets.com). Just a satisfied customer of both.
-----Original Message-----
From: Crosley, Rich [mailto:RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM]
Subject: RV-List: ANR Headsets
I am getting ready to buy ANR headsets. What is everyone happy with?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich"
<RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
Rich Crosley
RV-8 engine & finish stuff
==
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Composite Workshop/Fly-market - Marietta, GA |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
On Saturday, September 27, EAA 268 is putting on a fly-market and composite workshop
"under the control tower" at McCollum field in Marietta,GA.
The composite workshop will be fairly basic, and should give someone the kick in
the pants necessary to make his/her own fairings or to repair a certified wingtip
or cowling.
The activities begin mid-morning, and will last until we run out of interested
people...
KB
Do not archive.
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hmmmm...I too can comment! I have both a Lightspeed 25XL and a H10-13.4
with the "conversion". My presonal preference is the DC's. Couple of
reasons:
#1) After 3 years, the Lightspeeds are starting to show their "fit/finish"
issues. My DC's are 5 years old and look/feel/act like new. I can drop
them, sit on them, etc.. and not worry the least about destroying something.
No matter how you cut it, plastic just does not hold up as well.
#2) As a "4 eyes" glasses wearer, I prefer the gel seals on the DC's over
the 25XL's.
#3) The mic boom annoys me to death on the LS's. Way flimsy!
#4) MOST IMPORTANT. The light clamping power of the LS's results the the
headsets departing my head during "unusual attitudes". They simply will NOT
stay put during all the wifferdills that I do!! Probably a design flaw with
my head!
#5) Last, but not least....I'm 6'1", and in the winter before my seats
conform to my behind, the headband of the LS's hits the canopy. My DC's are
lower profile and don't hit the canopy.
Since the LS's are on their last leg and I'm in need of a headset, I'll
probably either buy another 13.4 and convert it or buy a 13X ENC.
Just my 2 cents. Remember, everyon'es head size, shape, body height, etc..
are different, so we all have different opinion. Regarding sound quality,
my DC's do just as well as the LS's IMHO.
Good luck, and if you have an extra $1000.00, I guess you can alwas spring
for the Bose X's!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
http://www.steinair.com
Do Not Archive
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