---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 09/25/03: 36 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:26 AM - Re: Gyros 8 deg tilt question. (Dana Overall) 2. 06:41 AM - Re: virii (Jeff Dowling) 3. 07:45 AM - question on windscreen fairing for slider (C J Heitman) 4. 09:46 AM - Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider (Richard Dudley) 5. 10:28 AM - EFIS & IFR (Noel & Yoshie Simmons) 6. 10:57 AM - Resolver vs Converter education (Ralph E. Capen) 7. 11:17 AM - washers, forward elevator pushrod end (Dan Checkoway) 8. 11:37 AM - EFIS & IFR (pauls@kc.rr.com) 9. 11:47 AM - Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end (Chris Good) 10. 12:30 PM - Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider (Charles Rowbotham) 11. 01:10 PM - Gyros and 8 deg panel question. (BillRVSIX@aol.com) 12. 01:49 PM - Re: need tip up canopy repair ideas (Eustace Bowhay) 13. 02:15 PM - remote engine heater (Wayne Pedersen) 14. 02:42 PM - Re: EFIS & IFR (Stanley Blanton) 15. 03:01 PM - Re: EFIS & IFR (Dana Overall) 16. 03:03 PM - Re: remote engine heater (Alex Peterson) 17. 03:03 PM - Re: [rv8list] Buyer beware (a bit long) (Gert) 18. 03:05 PM - Re: question on windscreen fairing for slider (Alex Peterson) 19. 03:12 PM - Re: EFIS & IFR (Mike Robertson) 20. 03:18 PM - Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end (Mike Robertson) 21. 03:24 PM - Re: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. (Duberstein, Allen) 22. 03:25 PM - Re: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. (Duberstein, Allen) 23. 03:29 PM - Re: EFIS & IFR (Kevin Horton) 24. 03:33 PM - Re: Resolver vs Converter education (Chris Good) 25. 03:42 PM - ANR Headsets (Crosley, Rich) 26. 04:33 PM - Re: washers, forward elevator pushrod end (Elsa & Henry) 27. 04:34 PM - what i did for tip up repair (WPAerial@aol.com) 28. 04:47 PM - H10-40 Headsets for sale (Sold) (Fred Stucklen) 29. 05:31 PM - New Ray Allen G307 stick grips (Charlie Kuss) 30. 06:15 PM - Re: New Ray Allen G307 stick grips (Dougpsr@aol.com) 31. 06:18 PM - RV-6A Check out (REALILY@aol.com) 32. 07:01 PM - Re: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. (Alex Peterson) 33. 07:04 PM - Re: RV-6A Check out (eregensburg) 34. 08:22 PM - Re: ANR Headsets (Nick N) 35. 09:36 PM - Composite Workshop/Fly-market - Marietta, GA (Kyle Boatright) 36. 09:40 PM - Re: ANR Headsets (Stein Bruch) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:26:31 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: Gyros 8 deg tilt question. --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" Bill, there is a ton of info in the archives on just this subject. With that said, you will find a very good post in there that documents the small amount of error that will be present in your TC mounted on a tilted panel. Type in tilted turn coordinator. Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:41:09 AM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: virii --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" Knock on wood, but I dont get any spam. Jeff Im using earthlink if that matters. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Huft" Subject: RV-List: virii > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Huft" > > As an experiment, I dropped my old subscription to this list, and re-subscribed under a new email address. During the past two months, I did not post a single message, and I received no spam or virii. Then, yesterday I posted a message, and last night I received 6 virus messages and 2 pleas for help from Nigerian nationals. > > My own conclusion is that people are "mining" this list for valid addresses. How Matt can stop this is beyond me. I guess it is just the cost of sharing knowledge and opinions with our fellow builders. > > John Huft > RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO > www.lazy8.net/rv8.html > see you at Copper State and LOE > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:45:04 AM PST US From: "C J Heitman" Subject: RV-List: question on windscreen fairing for slider --> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen? I'm wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I couldn't find an answer in the archives.) Chris Heitman Dousman WI RV-9A N94ME (reserved) ready to install windscreen http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html --- ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 09:46:07 AM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: Re: RV-List: question on windscreen fairing for slider --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Chris, There are tints available from automotive paint and boat supplies that can be added to epoxy to color it. I've used a black tint I got from a boat supply store for the first layers of fiberglass on my windscreen front fairing and over the top to avoid the regular fiberglass color. Hope this helps. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A finishing details (there are lots!) C J Heitman wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" > > Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block > the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen? I'm > wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I > couldn't find an answer in the archives.) > > Chris Heitman > Dousman WI > RV-9A N94ME (reserved) > ready to install windscreen > http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html > > --- > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:28:43 AM PST US From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" "Rv9-List@Matronics. Com" , "Rv8-List@Matronics. Com" , "Rv7-List@Matronics. Com" , "Rv6-List@Matronics. Com" Subject: RV-List: EFIS & IFR SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly IFR. I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use, then please let me know. Sincerely, Noel Simmons ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:57:23 AM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: RV-List: Resolver vs Converter education --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" Fellow listers, My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external CDI. That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the whatever brand CDI. I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which takes both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary CDI. The Narco NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as inputs. The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be calibrated and should not be switched. These instructions also state that supplemental CDI's should use converter signals only. I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different type of signals.... Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of signals be used without the other? Thanks, Ralph Capen Soooooo many little wires ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 11:17:49 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: washers, forward elevator pushrod end --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched between the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really access that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real bear to install. I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of it with my hands or a tool. Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks I'd love to hear about 'em! Thanks, )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:37:04 AM PST US From: "pauls@kc.rr.com" Subject: RV-List: EFIS & IFR --> RV-List message posted by: "pauls@kc.rr.com" "even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly IFR. " WHAT ?? I am not to sure where you get this type of information, but if I were you, not only would I not listen to this type of mumbo jumbo, I sure wouldn't be repeating it! Paul do not archieve ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:47:51 AM PST US From: "Chris Good" Subject: Re: RV-List: washers, forward elevator pushrod end --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" Dan, I've found that using a 2-3" length of hinge pin instead of the bolt is much easier to get all the necessary washers in place. Then push the pin out with the bolt, wiggling the pin about as necessary to get it through everything. Chris Good, http://rv.supermatrix.com West Bend, WI RV-6A 600 hrs. -- --------- Original Message --------- DATE: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:13:59 From: "Dan Checkoway" >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd >elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans >call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched between >the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really access >that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in >no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real >bear to install. > >I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold >each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so >confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of >the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of it >with my hands or a tool. > >Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks >I'd love to hear about 'em! > >Thanks, >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail! ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:30:30 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: question on windscreen fairing for slider --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Chris, On our 8A we painted the inside of the fairing - flat black to off set light reflections. Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A (200+ hours) >From: "C J Heitman" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: question on windscreen fairing for slider >Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 09:37:37 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" > >Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the windscreen to block >the view of the backside of the bond area at the base of the windscreen? >I'm >wondering if I should paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I >couldn't find an answer in the archives.) > >Chris Heitman >Dousman WI >RV-9A N94ME (reserved) >ready to install windscreen >http://my.execpc.com/~cjh/rv9a.html > > >--- > > FREE! http://msnmessenger-download.com ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 01:10:00 PM PST US From: BillRVSIX@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator need to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel. Bill Higgins RV-6 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:49:24 PM PST US From: "Eustace Bowhay" Subject: Re: RV-List: need tip up canopy repair ideas --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" Hi Jerry:: In the original manual for my 6 (1990) it was optional regarding the installation of the pop rivets (CS4-4) through the canopy base molding. For the 6A it calls up the installation of these rivets at 4 inch spacing, was wondering if you have those rivets installed. Although it may have happened I have not heard of one separating with the rivets installed. If you care to contact me I have some ideas on a repair. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: need tip up canopy repair ideas > --> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com > > I have 170 hours on my RV6A. after coming back from Reno air race I found the > canopy had separated at the leading edge from the fiberglass on my tip up. > Any ideas how I should repair this? > > > Jerry Wilken > N699WP > Albany Oregon > 541-926-8316 > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 02:15:43 PM PST US From: "Wayne Pedersen" Subject: RV-List: remote engine heater --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" Winter is coming and I am looking at a remote control box that turns on your engine heater - see link http://www.goflying.cc/index.html Anybody have any experience with this RS Beeper Box ? or other suggestions and suppliers. Thanks Wayne RV7a - fuse Southern Alberta --- ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:42:38 PM PST US From: "Stanley Blanton" Subject: RE: RV-List: EFIS & IFR --> RV-List message posted by: "Stanley Blanton" It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly IFR. I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use, then please let me know. Sincerely, Noel Simmons Lot's has been written and is in the archives about this subject. Ask your FAA or DAR person to show you the reg that requires TSO instruments for part pi oiperations. Then you can post it here for the rest of us. This issue is also discussed on the Bluse Mountain site. They are not even required to sign off the installation. Typically your operating limitations read something like ".. approved for VFR only unless equipped for IFR.." It's up to you to make the determination. Stan Blanton ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:01:19 PM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: EFIS & IFR --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" I have to say the notion that any non TSO'd instrumentation precludes one from legally flying IFR is nonsense. I am not saying you are wrong, I am only saying the information you have been provided is extremely suspect. The regs state what is required equipment onboard. The regs furthur state that one must have equipment on board appropriate for the ground facilities to be used for IFR operations. In the case of IFR, a certified IFR GPS and certified nav head are the appropriate units for the ground facilities. I have certainly not be able to find any documentation which dictates non ground facility equipment be TSO'd equipment. It sound like you have talked with someone shooting off the hip. Another point that certainly makes me think the guy may be shooting a little lower than the hip, and about ninety degress over, is your examiner will not sign your experimental off as IFR to start with anyway. If you installed the current and certified equipment appropriate for the ground facilities to be used, you have to take the airplane up and verifiy the equipment's working condition then you sign the log book to indicate such. Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive >From: "pauls@kc.rr.com" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: RV-List@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: EFIS & IFR >Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 14:34:00 -0400 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "pauls@kc.rr.com" > > >"even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly >IFR. " > > >WHAT ?? >I am not to sure where you get this type of information, but if I were you, >not only would I not listen to this type of mumbo jumbo, I sure wouldn't be >repeating it! > >Paul >do not archieve > > High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:03:24 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: remote engine heater --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > Winter is coming and I am looking at a remote control box > that turns on your engine heater - see link > http://www.goflying.cc/index.html > > Anybody have any > experience with this RS Beeper Box ? or other suggestions and > suppliers. > > Thanks > > Wayne RV7a - fuse > Southern Alberta Wayne, I hooked a line break thermostat on to the end of an extension cord. I drop the whole thermostat end of the cord into the oil door, and plug the engine heater (mine has a sump heater and cylinder heater bands) into this cord. I set it at about 50F, and insulate the cowl well. I also wedge a piece of foam rubber into the cooling air exit area. I leave this on all the time during the winter, and I suspect the duty cycle is not too high. I am quite happy with this arrangement, as the year before I had it hooked to a telephone apparatus, and I always had to plan to call the hangar the night before I planned to fly. I'd be surprised if it used $10/month electricity. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 373 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 03:03:58 PM PST US From: Gert Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] Buyer beware (a bit long) --> RV-List message posted by: Gert As am update, I finally got hold of the new owner (?) of moneeymart, no I never got a call back, who informed me they would honor (grudgingly) the published price. Gert wrote: > Hi Folks > > Today I went looking for oil on the internet. A friend who has done a > big favor requested I don't pay him money but get engine oil for him to > defer costs. He requested Phillips X/C 20W50. > > I searched the net using google and my quest led me to: > http://www.mooneymart.com/ShopSite/engine_accessories.html > > they had the best rate if one considered also the shipping charges. I > duly ordered 2 cases and stuck them on my credit card. In return the > website made a receipt for me. on reading the receipt I found an error, > was my mistake. > > Called the number on the web site and was told that the prices on the > website are wrong, that the price on my receipt was wrong, matter of > fact, I was told there are warnings on their website that the prices are > wrong and that the website was 'down'. > > When told that I found their site through google, the person I talked to > admitted that I would not see the warnings, which after all are on a > different page. He was aware of this problem. He had no answer as to why > his transaction server was up and running, charging credit cards and > wrong pricing, if the website was really 'down'. ( it merrily acepted my > credit card info ). I was then connected to another person who offered > the same oil for about a dollar a bottle more, making it about the most > expensive oil around and that they are changing ownership. I was told > that the 'manager' or new owner would call me back. > Of course, I never got a call back, I tried several times to call the > supplied number with no success. I will call my credit card company, and > put a stop on the payment. I called the better business bureau, they > were very interested as it would be both interstate commerce and wire > fraud if my credit card would be charged. > > Now, to me, an analogy would be to go to macdonalds, order food from the > menu, pay and get a receipt. then whilst you wait for your tray to be > filled, the manager tells you that you can't have your food because the > prices on the menu board and charged by the person behind the counter > were wrong and by the way if you had come into macdonalds through the > other door you could have read the notice that the prices displayed are > wrong. please pay extra or go away. > > I don't expect mooneymart to part the red sea for me, nor would I want > to see a struggeling aviation shop to go under. I would have liked at > least a confirmation that the transaction can not be consumed and that > my credit card will not be charged, so far I have neither. I really > don't want an appology, just a reasurance. > > > There is a silver lining, the next best price I found, at > www.stylesaviation.com, looked to good to be true too. 12 bottles bought > separate would be cheaper than buying the same 12 in a case. Sent a > quick email, and sure enough, the pricing on the website was old for the > separate bottles. > > HOWEVER, I received a nice thank you email and was told that Styles > Aviation stood by their pricing and would honor the website pricing at > least today to give me a chance to buy the oil at the wrong price via > the website. > > I duly ordered my oil from Styles Aviation and got a good rate on > shipping too. > > I am in no way related to either website, nor have I done business with > either before, I'll know however that I'll be back shopping at Styles > Aviation, just for the fact that they honored their published pricing. > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 03:05:20 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: question on windscreen fairing for slider --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > Is it recommended to do anything to the inside of the > windscreen to block the view of the backside of the bond area > at the base of the windscreen? I'm wondering if I should > paint that area on the inside of the windscreen. (I couldn't > find an answer in the archives.) > > Chris Heitman > Dousman WI > RV-9A N94ME (reserved) > ready to install windscreen I painted mine with flat black spray paint from the hardware store. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 373 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 03:12:15 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: EFIS & IFR --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" OK, Time to jump in here. There is nothing in the regs requiring the instruments in an Amateur-Built aircraft to be TSO'd. There are some that say they must meet the requirements for a TSO but that is different. I have gone round and round on this issue with several people and they have ALL so far had to agree with this. There is nothing in 91.205 about TSO'd instruments. NOW, let's quickly talk the other side. Your friendly neighborhood FAA Inspector or DAR does have to sign off your aircraft in your logbook. He is saying that it meets the requirements for the certificate sought. He is taking on a pretty big responsibility and may not be familiar with some instruments/systems that are not TSO'd (like the Dynon EFIS D-10). Therefore he may not be confortable with signing that off for IFR. If that does happen and you don't like the respose you are getting from him/her, then bump it up to their superviser. You can do that all the way up to the Administrator if you so desire. If you have any questions feel free to drop me a line directly and we can talk. Mike Robertson Das Fed >From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: "Rv-List@Matronics. Com" , >"Rv9-List@Matronics. Com" , "Rv8-List@Matronics. >Com" , "Rv7-List@Matronics. Com" >, "Rv6-List@Matronics. Com" > >Subject: RV-List: EFIS & IFR >Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:28:09 -0600 SUSPICIOUS_RECIPS > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" > > >It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative >and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not >sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to >positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or >equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA >positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly >IFR. > >I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is >no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in >experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR >who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use, >then please let me know. > > >Sincerely, > >Noel Simmons > > Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:18:17 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: washers, forward elevator pushrod end --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Have you tried a piece od .020 safety wire or fishing line yet? If you haven't thread the line thru the control yoke, then the washer, the rod end, the other washer, then the other side of the control yoke. Once all threaded pull on both ends of the line and most times everything will pop into place enough to put a tapered pin punch on one end to further line up the mass. Once the line is out and the puch is in you can tehn slide a bolt in, pushing the pin punch out. This has worked for me several times when nothing else would. Mike Robertson >From: "Dan Checkoway" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: washers, forward elevator pushrod end >Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 11:13:59 -0700 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > >I'm having one heck of a hard time getting the front rod end of the fwd >elevator pushrod attached to the control column. On the RV-7, the plans >call for one AN960-10 washer on each side of the bearing, sandwiched >between >the bearing and the control column. The issue is that I can't really >access >that area easily now that everything's assembled. I can get one washer in >no problem, then put the rod end in -- it's the 2nd washer that's a real >bear to install. > >I've tried the tape-tab, superglue the washer to a screwdriver tip, hold >each washer with one bolt from each side, etc. tricks and it's just so >confined in there I can't seem to nail it. It's tough because the body of >the rod end blocks access from behind, and I can't really get in front of >it >with my hands or a tool. > >Any advice on this? I'll keep on keepin' on, but if there are other tricks >I'd love to hear about 'em! > >Thanks, >)_( Dan >RV-7 N714D >http://www.rvproject.com > > High-speed Internet access as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). Click here. https://broadband.msn.com ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:24:19 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. From: "Duberstein, Allen" --> RV-List message posted by: "Duberstein, Allen" Nope...just the DG. Allen Duberstein ODC Processor Architecture 503-712-2323 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BillRVSIX@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator need to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel. Bill Higgins RV-6 == == http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report == == ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:25:19 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. From: "Duberstein, Allen" --> RV-List message posted by: "Duberstein, Allen" SO next try....it's the AH that needs to be changed. If you don't alter it you appear to be flying uphill all the time. Sorry for the goof on previous mail allen Allen Duberstein ODC Processor Architecture 503-712-2323 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BillRVSIX@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. --> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator need to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel. Bill Higgins RV-6 == == http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report == == ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 03:29:30 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: EFIS & IFR --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton >--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" > > >It appears that these FAA regs alone are not enough. My FAA representative >and our FAA DAR (who is a homebuilder, too!) has told me that it is not >sufficient to follow all the rules; instead, an FAA rep or DAR needs to >positively approve it. If the instrument avionics are not TSO'ed or >equivalent, then they will not sign off on it. Period. Without the FAA >positive approval, even if you do not violate any FAA regs, you cannot fly >IFR. > >I think the FAA inspectors/DAR do not want to risk their jobs, and there is >no specific instruction to them that non TSO'ed instruments are ok in >experimentals, so they just refuse. If you can find one FAA inspector/DAR >who is willing to sign off e.g., a bluemountainavionics EFIS for IFR use, >then please let me know. > > >Sincerely, > >Noel Simmons Where does it say that an FAA or DAR signature is needed? Don't the standard Operating Limitations simply say something to the effect of "Aircraft restricted to day VFR unless equipped in accordance with FAR 91.XXX", where 91.XXX lists the equipment requirements for night or IFR. So it is up to the pilot to decide whether the aircraft equipment meets the requirements of FAR 91. Why make it more complicated than that? By all means exercise good judgement and common sense when you decide whether the aircraft is suitably equipped or not, but don't try to fight needless bureaucratic battles. Kevin Horton ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 03:33:21 PM PST US From: "Chris Good" Subject: Re: RV-List: Resolver vs Converter education --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" Ralph, If you have the choice, use the resolver output rather than the converter. If you have to use the converter output on the SL30, you lose the ability to monitor the radial on the standby VOR frequency. Unfortunately, I chose a KI-209 CDI head before realizing this :-( Chris Good, http://rv.supermatrix.com West Bend, WI RV-6A 600 hrs -- --------- Original Message --------- DATE: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 12:53:06 From: "Ralph E. Capen" >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > >Fellow listers, > >My UPSAT SL30 outputs both converter and resolver signals for an external CDI. That and my GX60 are switched through the ACU for input to the whatever brand CDI. > >I have a NSD-1000 HSI that I am installing in the panel of my RV6A which takes both of these signal types - this is intended to be the primary CDI. The Narco NAV122D/GPS that I have will also take these signals as inputs. > >The instructions for my SL30 indicate that the resolver signals need to be calibrated and should not be switched. These instructions also state that supplemental CDI's should use converter signals only. > >I'm trying to understand the functionality provided by these different type of signals.... > >Are they complementary - or similar in functionality? Can one set of signals be used without the other? > >Thanks, >Ralph Capen >Soooooo many little wires Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail! ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 03:42:27 PM PST US From: "Crosley, Rich" Subject: RV-List: ANR Headsets I am getting ready to buy ANR headsets. What is everyone happy with? --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" Rich Crosley RV-8 engine & finish stuff ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 04:33:10 PM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: washers, forward elevator pushrod end --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" Dan, A trick I used was to cut a strip of scrap .025" aluminum, say, 5/8" wide, length to suit and slot the end of it slightly narrower than the diameter of the washer and file it so that you can snap it into the slot and it stays in place (you can persuade it with a drop super glue if you wish) and then feed the washer into the gap between the parts and feed the bolt through it. Then it's easy to pull the "tool" out.You can bend and shape this "tool" to suit your access needs. You will find some other places that a similar "tool" can be useful, one is installing the aileron hinge and push-rod bolts which are hard to get to because the outboard end of the flap is in the way, but for that "tool", I cut the slot on the side of the end of the strip to get the required access. A similar "tool" can be made to hold nuts. Cheers!!-----Henry Hore ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 04:34:44 PM PST US From: WPAerial@aol.com Subject: RV-List: what i did for tip up repair --> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com thanx everyone, ken at vans thought best to cut off old fairing and start over. that is what i've done. i have a pretty large gap between canopy and deck, so this time i have filled in from inside to make the canopy sit in a channel. i feel a lot better about this. do not archive jerry wilken n699wp albany oregon ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 04:47:16 PM PST US From: "Fred Stucklen" Subject: RV-List: H10-40 Headsets for sale (Sold) --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" The headses have been sold.... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs Time: 05:45:32 AM PST US From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" Subject: H10-40 Headsets for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" Listers, I have two H10-40 headsets that I am no longer using, and would like to sell. Both are a few years old, but in excellent condition. One has a head pad and gel ear muffs. Both have foam mike filters. I'm asking $150.00 each, or $275.00 for both. Anybody interested should contact me off the list at the email address below. Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV 54 Hrs ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 05:31:12 PM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: RV-List: New Ray Allen G307 stick grips --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss Listers, Has anyone purchased the new stick grips from Ray Allen Co. yet? What is your opinion of them? Charlie Kuss ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:15:41 PM PST US From: Dougpsr@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: New Ray Allen G307 stick grips --> RV-List message posted by: Dougpsr@aol.com Charlie, what is web address for Ray Allen? How is your project coming? Has Eric flown yet? We are putting our 8 in the paint shop the end of next month. Sure be glad when it is done. Ya'll take care. Doug Preston ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 06:18:19 PM PST US From: REALILY@aol.com Subject: RV-List: RV-6A Check out --> RV-List message posted by: REALILY@aol.com from; Realily@aol.com Hi all, My son Marc, who lives in Tallahassee Florida needs to get 10 hours dual with a CFI in an RV-6A,.... Does anyone know of an RV-6A owner, who lives within a reasonable distance from Tallahassee, who is also a CFI, that can get this done? Thanks Real Dupuis RV-6A Orlando Fl.. realily@aol.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 07:01:46 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Gyros and 8 deg panel question. --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > -----Or > > SO next try....it's the AH that needs to be changed. If you > don't alter it you appear to be flying uphill all the time. > I don't believe this is the problem with using a non 8 degree tilt gyro in our panels; if it were, one need only reset the little airplane. The problem with a non tilt gyro is the various errors which will occur during turns and acceleration/deceleration. Gyros, like everything else, have compromises. One is that there are inherent errors that occur, for example, during turns. If you watch closely, and execute a 180 turn, you will notice a slight error on a AH gyro after stopping the turn. This error is likely quite small, but will be bigger if you are in an 8 degree climb (or have a non tilt gyro - same thing). I don't know how much the relative errors are in the two cases. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 373 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 07:04:19 PM PST US From: eregensburg Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-6A Check out --> RV-List message posted by: eregensburg I have an RV6A in Greensboro, NC and a CFI who will give transition training. If interested reply of line to my email eregensburg@triad.rr.com Ed N925RV >On Thu, 25 Sep 2003 21:18:14 -0400 (EDT) REALILY@aol.com wrote. >--> RV-List message posted by: REALILY@aol.com > >from; Realily@aol.com > >Hi all, > > My son Marc, who lives in Tallahassee Florida needs to get 10 hours >dual with a CFI in an RV-6A,.... Does anyone know of an RV-6A owner, who lives >within a reasonable distance from Tallahassee, who is also a CFI, that can >get this done? > > Thanks > >Real Dupuis >RV-6A Orlando Fl.. >realily@aol.com > >do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 08:22:46 PM PST US From: "Nick N" Subject: RE: RV-List: ANR Headsets --> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" Really depends on what your preference / budget is. My first set is a Headsets Inc. conversion for my DC 10-30's. Inexpensive ($250 ish), easy to install, works as advertised, overall I'm very happy with the kit. Takes 1 9v battery which lasts (if you remember to turn it off, the new kits have a auto off feature) about 15-20 hours. My only complaint with them was that my head would start to feel squeezed after about 2 hours. This was in no way related to the conversion, but rather a typical DC feature. At Sun-N-Fun this spring I bought a pair of Lightspeed G3 Thirty's. WAY comfortable! I can wear these all day with no problem. Battery life is about double with two AA's. The G3's have Cell phone and Music input, which I thought would be a neat toy at the time, but find invaluable now. The ability to plug my MP3 player directly into the headset has been great on those long cross countries, as the Cherokee I fly now does not have a music input on the intercom. Cell Phone input... I really didn't' think I would use this. I was wrong. Getting a Clearance from FSS from the run up area is now a non-issue. No more straining to hear them over the cockpit noise, and no more running from the FBO jumping in the airplane trying to make a Void time. I'm VERY happy with my Lightspeed's and hard pressed to buy anything else. Nick Disclaimer: I'm in no way affiliated with either ANR Inc. (http://www.headsetsinc.com/) or Lightspeed (http://www.anrheadsets.com). Just a satisfied customer of both. -----Original Message----- From: Crosley, Rich [mailto:RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM] Subject: RV-List: ANR Headsets I am getting ready to buy ANR headsets. What is everyone happy with? --> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" Rich Crosley RV-8 engine & finish stuff == == http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report == == ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 09:36:34 PM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: RV-List: Composite Workshop/Fly-market - Marietta, GA --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" On Saturday, September 27, EAA 268 is putting on a fly-market and composite workshop "under the control tower" at McCollum field in Marietta,GA. The composite workshop will be fairly basic, and should give someone the kick in the pants necessary to make his/her own fairings or to repair a certified wingtip or cowling. The activities begin mid-morning, and will last until we run out of interested people... KB Do not archive. ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:50 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: ANR Headsets --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Hmmmm...I too can comment! I have both a Lightspeed 25XL and a H10-13.4 with the "conversion". My presonal preference is the DC's. Couple of reasons: #1) After 3 years, the Lightspeeds are starting to show their "fit/finish" issues. My DC's are 5 years old and look/feel/act like new. I can drop them, sit on them, etc.. and not worry the least about destroying something. No matter how you cut it, plastic just does not hold up as well. #2) As a "4 eyes" glasses wearer, I prefer the gel seals on the DC's over the 25XL's. #3) The mic boom annoys me to death on the LS's. Way flimsy! #4) MOST IMPORTANT. The light clamping power of the LS's results the the headsets departing my head during "unusual attitudes". They simply will NOT stay put during all the wifferdills that I do!! Probably a design flaw with my head! #5) Last, but not least....I'm 6'1", and in the winter before my seats conform to my behind, the headband of the LS's hits the canopy. My DC's are lower profile and don't hit the canopy. Since the LS's are on their last leg and I'm in need of a headset, I'll probably either buy another 13.4 and convert it or buy a 13X ENC. Just my 2 cents. Remember, everyon'es head size, shape, body height, etc.. are different, so we all have different opinion. Regarding sound quality, my DC's do just as well as the LS's IMHO. Good luck, and if you have an extra $1000.00, I guess you can alwas spring for the Bose X's! Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis. http://www.steinair.com Do Not Archive --