Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Bottom Cowl Exit (FlashandCo@aol.com)
2. 07:38 AM - Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions (lucky macy)
3. 09:12 AM - Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions (Tailgummer@aol.com)
4. 09:44 AM - seats fabrics.. (bert murillo)
5. 11:07 AM - Re: Bottom Cowl Exit (Michael McGee)
6. 11:19 AM - Re: Bottom Cowl Exit (Stein Bruch)
7. 11:40 AM - Re: Bottom Cowl Exit (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
8. 12:53 PM - [ Charles F. Long ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
9. 12:57 PM - Re: seats fabrics.. (Doug Weiler)
10. 01:20 PM - [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
11. 02:50 PM - attaching seats (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
12. 04:24 PM - Re: attaching seats (Alex Peterson)
13. 05:06 PM - Re: attaching seats (Chris Good)
14. 06:02 PM - Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap (Elsa & Henry)
15. 06:05 PM - Re: New RV Flying (Clayton Henderson)
16. 06:48 PM - Re: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap (Stein Bruch)
17. 08:27 PM - Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions (Dave Bristol)
Message 1
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Subject: | Bottom Cowl Exit |
--> RV-List message posted by: FlashandCo@aol.com
There was some discussion just recently about adding a "scupper" to the bottom
cowl exit, apparently to create a better low pressure area for cooling air exit.
I just trimmed the bottom edge of my RV6/O-360 bottom cowl but left the cowl
exit (center part) edge long as it came from Van's. Is there any benefit to
the longer edge (better alignment of exit air) or should I just cut it in line
with the bottom cowl aft edge? Looks like the Vetterman exhaust would work
fine either way.
Bob Gordon
Dover DE
RV6 Electrics, etc.
Message 2
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Subject: | Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
I am inventorying my QB fuse parts and am having second thoughts on a couple
of items.
I got the RV8 rear passenger rudder extensions. I am now leaning towards
them being a $93 dollar waste and think I would rather put the $ towards
something like the Andair fuel valve or a different brake master cylinder
system.
Who's got a URL showing an alternative master cylinder system that'll
provide a low/easy maintenance and cleanup job?
Any firm opinions?
thx,
lucky
Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month
(depending on the local service providers in your area).
https://broadband.msn.com
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com
You may want to see Randy Lervold's website:
Click here: RV-8.com - Ideas & Products
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hello:
I am ready to have my seats upholstered, got
samples of materials etc..
Question, what is the type most used on our rv's?
besides leather..
Are the fabrics, synthetic, cotton, wool?
the samples I got, do not specified the type
of material..
Any information and suggestions will be appreciated
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Ready for the wings...
Do not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Bottom Cowl Exit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
At 07:08 2003-09-27 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: FlashandCo@aol.com
>
>There was some discussion just recently about adding a "scupper" to the
>bottom cowl exit, apparently to create a better low pressure area for
>cooling air exit. I just trimmed the bottom edge of my RV6/O-360 bottom
>cowl but left the cowl exit (center part) edge long as it came from
>Van's. Is there any benefit to the longer edge (better alignment of exit
>air) or should I just cut it in line with the bottom cowl aft edge? Looks
>like the Vetterman exhaust would work fine either way.
>
>Bob Gordon
>Dover DE
>RV6 Electrics, etc.
Unless you are having cooling problems I'd leave it straight. No sense in
adding extra drag that isn't needed.
Mike McGee, RV-4 N996RV, O320-E2G, Hillsboro, OR
13B in gestation mode
Message 6
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Subject: | Bottom Cowl Exit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Bob,
You are ok leaving it be for the time being, but you may find out that you
need to trim some more off. I left mine, but ended up cutting about another
inch off this summer to keep my CHT's in order. Depends on the airplane.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
FlashandCo@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Bottom Cowl Exit
--> RV-List message posted by: FlashandCo@aol.com
There was some discussion just recently about adding a "scupper" to the
bottom cowl exit, apparently to create a better low pressure area for
cooling air exit. I just trimmed the bottom edge of my RV6/O-360 bottom cowl
but left the cowl exit (center part) edge long as it came from Van's. Is
there any benefit to the longer edge (better alignment of exit air) or
should I just cut it in line with the bottom cowl aft edge? Looks like the
Vetterman exhaust would work fine either way.
Bob Gordon
Dover DE
RV6 Electrics, etc.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Bottom Cowl Exit |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
On the HR2, John Harmon recommends not trimming the bottom of the cowl below
the firewall. Just let it extend back along the bottom of the fuselage. This
has been found to improve the airflow.
However, this is the very end of a long engine cooling system. A few other
factors are involved in getting proper cooling. Not to mention low drag.
Jim Ayers
Less Drag products, Inc.
Message 8
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Subject: | [ Charles F. Long ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Charles F. Long <charles.long@gm.com>
Subject: GPS Color Moving Map For Less Than $500
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/charles.long@gm.com.09.27.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: seats fabrics.. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
> Hello:
>
> I am ready to have my seats upholstered, got
> samples of materials etc..
>
> Question, what is the type most used on our rv's?
> besides leather..
>
> Are the fabrics, synthetic, cotton, wool?
>
> the samples I got, do not specified the type
> of material..
>
> Any information and suggestions will be appreciated
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Bert
You can do none better than having DJ Lauritsen do your interior. She has
done probably the majority of RV's on the planet and her workmanship is
impeccable. Contact her at Cleaveland Aircraft Tool and she'll send you
samples and discuss all the alternatives.
Doug Weiler
Hudson, WI
RV-4, N722DW
Message 10
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Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Corrosion Inside Fuel Tank Cap
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.09.27.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Speaking of seats, how does everybody attach the seat cusions to the seat
frames.
I tried gluing a half strip of velcro to the metal seat back and seat base,
with the other half sewn into the fabric cusion. Problem is, I've yet to
find a glue that's stronger then the velcro. Any time I need to remove the
cusion, the glued velcro strip comes along with it.
I suppose I could rivet the velcro strip to the seat back. Any other ideas?
Andy
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Speaking of seats, how does everybody attach the seat cusions
> to the seat frames.
>
> I tried gluing a half strip of velcro to the metal seat back
> and seat base, with the other half sewn into the fabric
> cusion. Problem is, I've yet to find a glue that's stronger
> then the velcro. Any time I need to remove the cusion, the
> glued velcro strip comes along with it.
>
> I suppose I could rivet the velcro strip to the seat back.
> Any other ideas?
>
> Andy
The stick'em that is on good quality velcro will probably hold. To
improve the odds, though, have the piece that is sewn to the seats be
much smaller than the piece that is stuck onto the metal. This will
avoid pulling up an edge.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
In a couple of places, I've found that a pop rivet at each end of a long pice of
velcro will stop it peeling away.
Chris. good.
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 18:23:19
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>> Speaking of seats, how does everybody attach the seat cusions
>> to the seat frames.
>>
>> I tried gluing a half strip of velcro to the metal seat back
>> and seat base, with the other half sewn into the fabric
>> cusion. Problem is, I've yet to find a glue that's stronger
>> then the velcro. Any time I need to remove the cusion, the
>> glued velcro strip comes along with it.
>>
>> I suppose I could rivet the velcro strip to the seat back.
>> Any other ideas?
>>
>> Andy
>
>The stick'em that is on good quality velcro will probably hold. To
>improve the odds, though, have the piece that is sewn to the seats be
>much smaller than the piece that is stuck onto the metal. This will
>avoid pulling up an edge.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 373 hours
>www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Get advanced SPAM filtering on Webmail or POP Mail ... Get Lycos Mail!
Message 14
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Subject: | Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Hi listers,
Matronics has just posted a Photo Share that I submitted on the subject. To say
that I was surprised to find what I did is an understatement considering the
short time the aircraft has been in service. I hope the text of the photo-share
and what I added below can be useful to you if you encounter the same problems.
I'd like to expand on some details over the write-up in the photo-share:
After the penetrating oil soaking, I chucked the stud in my lathe and removed the
stud, but some skidding occurred which caused some scoring that can be seen
in the photo, and as can be seen, the remnant of the roll-pin
There is no evidence of any plating on the parts and there should be. At least
Cad plating (like rivets) or preferably Nickel plating to prevent the corrosion
observed. Another problem which caused the reason for the attempt of adjustment
was that the latch-lever no longer nestled flat inside the top cap when closed.
There is a fiber spacer-washer beneath the latch-lever which takes the brunt
of the pressure of the latch when it is being closed. The fiber material
is too soft as there were deep gouge marks in it caused by the lands of the latch.
I made a new spacer out of epoxy-glass printed circuit board material and
this is working fine.
The roll-pin that holds the latch to the stud is 1/16" diameter 3/4" long. I have
a good selection of roll pins but not that length in the required diameter.
So I ended up using two pins of equal length installed into the stud from each
side of
the latch lever and seems to work OK.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit@eonet.net>
Jim,
Congrats!! Got any pics to share?
Do Not Archive
Clayton Henderson
RV-7 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov
Subject: RV-List: New RV Flying
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov"
<Jim.Truitt@usdoj.gov>
Just wanted to let everyone know - kit # 81610, an RV-8A (N627TT), is
now flying. 180 hp. Aero Sport Power, carb, Sensenich fixed pitch 85",
full interior, day/night VFR, 1107 lbs.
A lot of thanks to John Crabtree, Vince Frazier, and Steve Steckler for
all
their help, and especially John's "engineering s*** ".
Special thanks to my most patient and loveable wife, Terri, who, by the
way, designed the paint scheme and the interior, and installed the
interior.
Flys GREAT! Only 8 hours so far - can't wait to get some more stick
time!
==
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 16
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Subject: | Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Henry,
Just a couple of notes about fuel caps. The "plastic / fiber" spacer under
the flipper has since been replaced by Van's with metal spacers. Both my
platic ones failed pretty quickly, and I just made my own out of aluminum.
Also, regarding the pins, a good drill bit shaft will last forever, those
roll pins have a tendency to break. I carry a couple extras now just in
case!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Elsa & Henry
Subject: RV-List: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>>>>>>There is a fiber spacer-washer beneath the latch-lever which takes
the brunt of the pressure of the latch when it is being closed. The fiber
material is too soft as there were deep gouge marks in it caused by the
lands of the latch.>>>>
>>>>>The roll-pin that holds the latch to the stud is 1/16" diameter 3/4"
long. I have a good selection of roll pins but not that length in the
required diameter. So I ended up using two pins of equal length installed
into the stud from each side of
the latch lever and seems to work OK.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Lucky,
Just curious, why would you want to change the master cylinder system?
Dave
lucky macy wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
>
>I am inventorying my QB fuse parts and am having second thoughts on a couple
>of items.
>
>I got the RV8 rear passenger rudder extensions. I am now leaning towards
>them being a $93 dollar waste and think I would rather put the $ towards
>something like the Andair fuel valve or a different brake master cylinder
>system.
>
>Who's got a URL showing an alternative master cylinder system that'll
>provide a low/easy maintenance and cleanup job?
>
>Any firm opinions?
>
>thx,
>lucky
>
>Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month
>(depending on the local service providers in your area).
>https://broadband.msn.com
>
>
>
>
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