Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:01 AM - Re: W&B on a -6A (Greg Grigson)
2. 12:42 AM - Bad wing rib to spar rivets (Warren W Hurd)
3. 04:24 AM - Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions (RV8ter@aol.com)
4. 05:06 AM - Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap (Fred Stucklen)
5. 05:49 AM - Re:Bad Wing Rib to Spar Rivets (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
6. 06:16 AM - 8 deg panel and gyros Question. (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
7. 07:05 AM - Re: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap (Elsa & Henry)
8. 07:24 AM - Re: W&B on a -6A (Jerry Springer)
9. 07:47 AM - Re: W&B on a -6A (Paul Besing)
10. 07:48 AM - Stick hat switches (Gert)
11. 09:15 AM - Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets (Dan Checkoway)
12. 09:17 AM - Re: Stick hat switches (Dan Checkoway)
13. 09:22 AM - Re: seats fabrics.. (bert murillo)
14. 09:26 AM - Re: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap (Sam Buchanan)
15. 09:51 AM - Re: seats fabrics.. (Jeff Orear)
16. 10:24 AM - Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets (Larry Bowen)
17. 10:30 AM - Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets (Kevin Horton)
18. 12:18 PM - Engine Preheaters For Sale (Martin Sobel)
19. 12:30 PM - DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale (Martin Sobel)
20. 12:38 PM - Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets (Larry Bowen)
21. 12:42 PM - IFR/VFR (Wheeler North)
22. 12:50 PM - Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets (HCRV6@aol.com)
23. 12:53 PM - Lock tabs on carb (Wheeler North)
24. 01:16 PM - Scuppers and Velcro (Wheeler North)
25. 01:24 PM - Re: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap (Alex Peterson)
26. 01:40 PM - Re: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale (Cy Galley)
27. 04:40 PM - Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets (Bob Hassel)
28. 04:44 PM - Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets (Elsa & Henry)
29. 05:28 PM - Gear Leg Stiffeners (LarryRobertHelming)
30. 05:40 PM - Fw: FW: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List... (Lenleg@aol.com)
31. 05:41 PM - Vacumn Pump for Sale (Lenleg@aol.com)
32. 08:05 PM - Rv list Hartzell Prop (smoothweasel@juno.com)
33. 08:18 PM - Putting an Epoxy Primer over Van's Wash Primer used on QB kits (Garey Wittich)
34. 08:48 PM - [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
35. 08:50 PM - Re: Gear Leg Stiffeners (Ed Anderson)
36. 09:20 PM - Re: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale (aronsond)
37. 10:53 PM - Re: W&B on a -6A (Greg Grigson)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Doug,
What engineering design changes did you make to Van's standard RV 6A aircraft
to permit a gross weight of 1800 lbs? The RV 6A has been designed and tested
to certain load limitations by the kit manufacturer (my RV 6A manual states
maximum gross weight as 1650 lbs). Any alteration of these limitations would
require certain design changes and possibly flight testing. To forgo such a process
is not prudent in my opinion. I hope I have mistakenly misinterpreted
your posting, if so I apologize in advance.
Safe Flying!
Aloha
Greg Grigson
dmedema@att.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
On-ground Level
Nose tire: 236 272
Right tire: 396 377
Left tire: 394 378
The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
all the fuel is used in this scenario.
I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
---------------------------------
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Matronics RV9 List <rv9-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the riveting
of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly deformed some of the
factory rivet heads. See them at http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To make the
rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would take 3 to 4 seconds to
make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was paying much to much
attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory head.
I also made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this
better?
Warren Hurd
90454 Wings
http://www.ahyup.com
Mushroomed Rivets
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Van's brake system and rear seat rudder pedal extensions |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Only because I didn't know ACS made little reservoirs that would fit on
Van's cylinders! But someone pointed out to me that ACS sold the A-600 with an
unvented plug at the top that can be threaded directly onto Van's master
cylinder and they are about $11 a piece.
lucky
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
Henry & Listers,
I have noticed that on one of my tank caps, the lever also doesn't fit
down flat, so I'm left wondering if I don't have a similar problem. Since a
properly fitted cap is essential for keeping rain water out f the tank, this
might well be good iem to add to the conditional inspection list, and/or
preflight list.......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 55+ hours
Time: 06:02:58 PM PST US
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Hi listers,
Matronics has just posted a Photo Share that I submitted on the
subject. To say
that I was surprised to find what I did is an understatement
considering the
short time the aircraft has been in service. I hope the text of the
photo-share
and what I added below can be useful to you if you encounter the same
problems.
I'd like to expand on some details over the write-up in the
photo-share:
After the penetrating oil soaking, I chucked the stud in my lathe and
removed the
stud, but some skidding occurred which caused some scoring that can be
seen
in the photo, and as can be seen, the remnant of the roll-pin
There is no evidence of any plating on the parts and there should be.
At least
Cad plating (like rivets) or preferably Nickel plating to prevent the
corrosion
observed. Another problem which caused the reason for the attempt of
adjustment
was that the latch-lever no longer nestled flat inside the top cap
when closed.
There is a fiber spacer-washer beneath the latch-lever which takes the
brunt
of the pressure of the latch when it is being closed. The fiber
material
is too soft as there were deep gouge marks in it caused by the lands
of the latch.
I made a new spacer out of epoxy-glass printed circuit board material
and
this is working fine.
The roll-pin that holds the latch to the stud is 1/16" diameter 3/4"
long. I have
a good selection of roll pins but not that length in the required
diameter.
So I ended up using two pins of equal length installed into the stud
from each
side of
the latch lever and seems to work OK.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re:Bad Wing Rib to Spar Rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
In my RV-4 the rivets you show were pop rivets to hold main AND nose ribs to
the spar. They weren't put in until all other things were done.
Might be different on yours. Which one are you building?
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 8 deg panel and gyros Question. |
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello Quick question on a panel that has a 8 deg tilt I know the artificial
horizon has to have the tilt built in but dose the DG and turn coordinator need
to be set up for the 8 deg tilt panel.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>Just a couple of notes about fuel caps. The "plastic / fiber" spacer under
>the flipper has since been replaced by Van's with metal spacers. Both my
>platic ones failed pretty quickly, and I just made my own out of aluminum.
>Also, regarding the pins, a good drill bit shaft will last forever, those
>roll pins have a tendency to break. I carry a couple extras now just in
>case
Hi Stein,
Yep, I was considering using a 1/16" or a #52-#53 drill-bit shaft, and I
would have had I not found suitable roll-pins. But then I mused that it took
a lot of torque to break-off the roll-pins and what would break if the stud
seizure happened again? Would the latch lever lands break instead of the
drill-bit shaft? Who knows? that's why I used the roll-pins. (for now)
Cheers!!---Henry Hore
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Greg,
Van supplies parts not aircraft, Doug is the manufacturer, as the
manufacturer he can sit his own W&B.
Van's W&B figures only say that he has tested the aircraft to those
limits and it did not break. This airplane is
very capable of carrying 1800lbs and many have a W&B limit of 1800 lbs
already. It is like you say your 6A manual
states a gross weight of 1650lbs. My RV-6 manual says a gross weight of
1600lbs. Whats the deal, they are the
same airplane. We all do flight testing on each aircraft built, that is
what the stage one flight test period is about.
Jerry
Greg Grigson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
>
>Doug,
> What engineering design changes did you make to Van's standard RV 6A aircraft
to permit a gross weight of 1800 lbs? The RV 6A has been designed and tested
to certain load limitations by the kit manufacturer (my RV 6A manual states
maximum gross weight as 1650 lbs). Any alteration of these limitations would
require certain design changes and possibly flight testing. To forgo such a
process is not prudent in my opinion. I hope I have mistakenly misinterpreted
your posting, if so I apologize in advance.
>
>Safe Flying!
>Aloha
>Greg Grigson
>
>dmedema@att.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
>I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
>normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
>interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
>I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
>attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
>using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
>exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
>this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
>W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
>with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
>re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
>
>On-ground Level
>Nose tire: 236 272
>Right tire: 396 377
>Left tire: 394 378
>
>The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
>consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
>The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
>is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
>I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
>allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
>over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
>c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
>all the fuel is used in this scenario.
>
>I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
>approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
>onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
>unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
>with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
>Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
>a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
>
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
CG is more of an issue than weight with this airplane (unless you are
talking about pulling more g's) . My 6A weight and balance is listed as
1750 pounds gross. The weight and balance is claimed by the builder, not
the kit manufacturer. Van's has listed 1650 as what old blue was set at.
On the record van's will tell you that you *should* set your max gross at
1650. Off the record, they will tell you that 1800 is fine, just watch the
CG as you burn fuel. I've been loaded to 1700 wihout a problem. Just have
to watch the fuel burn. I landed with alot of fuel burned and it required
alot of power on landing to keep her level. As long as the pilot ensures
that all turns are shallow, no aerobatics, no abrupt maneuvers, etc, this
airplane will fly fine at 1800.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: W&B on a -6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
>
> Doug,
> What engineering design changes did you make to Van's standard RV 6A
aircraft to permit a gross weight of 1800 lbs? The RV 6A has been designed
and tested to certain load limitations by the kit manufacturer (my RV 6A
manual states maximum gross weight as 1650 lbs). Any alteration of these
limitations would require certain design changes and possibly flight
testing. To forgo such a process is not prudent in my opinion. I hope I
have mistakenly misinterpreted your posting, if so I apologize in advance.
>
> Safe Flying!
> Aloha
> Greg Grigson
>
> dmedema@att.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
> normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
> interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
> I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
> attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
> using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
> exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
> this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
> W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
> with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
> re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
>
> On-ground Level
> Nose tire: 236 272
> Right tire: 396 377
> Left tire: 394 378
>
> The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
> consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
> The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
> is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
> I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
> allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
> over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
> c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
> all the fuel is used in this scenario.
>
> I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
> approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
> onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
> unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
> with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
> Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
> a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
>
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
rv-list <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Stick hat switches |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Hi
Does anybody know an alternate source for hat switches or cooly switches
like the one in the Ray Allen grips.
Alternate to RAC that is.....
looking for one for the back seater.
Gert
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Here's my 2 cents:
1) Stabilize the work as best you can. Clamp it down to the bench in
multiple places, block it with clamped/screwed down wood, etc.
2) Use a partner. This ought to be #1, actually, but I think stabilization
might cure your issues. But anyway, when smashing 1/8" AN470 rivets I
always like to have a partner so each person can use both hands and focus
their attention on their own side. I think it makes for better quality
riveting.
3) Maintain more force on the gun, keeping the set on that rivet until after
it stops hammering. I find that if you release pressure even an instant too
soon, you get smiles. So keep a good amount of force on it (thus all the
clamping!) until it's silent, then pull the gun away.
4) Use more pressure. 3 to 4 seconds is kind of a long time to shoot, but
your mileage may vary. My opinion is that it's almost easier and more
controllable to have a quicker, more intense burst, rather than a long,
drawn-out buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurst. So crank the PSI up to 80 or 90
and it should cut the time in half...but apply good force to that machine
head and keep the set dead centered and plumb. Use your 2nd hand's
fingertips to brace the set.
5) If all else fails, blame the bucker. 8-) Make sure the bucking bar is
good and square. If it's not, it has the ability to knock *you* off center.
At least that's what I've found and theorized. Also, use the heaviest
bucking bar you've got, if possible.
Hope this helps!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Warren W Hurd" <warren@ahyup.com>
Subject: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
>
> I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the riveting
> of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly deformed some of the
> factory rivet heads. See them at http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To make the
> rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would take 3 to 4 seconds to
> make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was paying much to much
> attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory head.
> I also made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this
> better?
>
> Warren Hurd
> 90454 Wings
> http://www.ahyup.com
> Mushroomed Rivets
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Stick hat switches |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
You might want to give michael@kalama.com an email or call
(360-274-6508...no web site that I've seen). He's the guy who makes Custom
Stick Grips (teak wood). I believe he sells switches individually as well
as gorgeous stick grips.
http://www.rvproject.com/20030605.html (some pics of the stick grips)
http://www.rvproject.com/20030611.html (some more pics here)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gert" <gert@execpc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Stick hat switches
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
> Hi
>
> Does anybody know an alternate source for hat switches or cooly switches
> like the one in the Ray Allen grips.
>
> Alternate to RAC that is.....
>
> looking for one for the back seater.
>
>
> Gert
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: seats fabrics.. |
--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Dough:
Thanks for the info. But I am having this done locally
since I bought the seats from Van's.
I just wanted to get som input on fabrics used
by others...
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Elsa & Henry wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> >Just a couple of notes about fuel caps. The "plastic / fiber" spacer under
> >the flipper has since been replaced by Van's with metal spacers. Both my
> >platic ones failed pretty quickly, and I just made my own out of aluminum.
> >Also, regarding the pins, a good drill bit shaft will last forever, those
> >roll pins have a tendency to break. I carry a couple extras now just in
> >case
>
> Hi Stein,
> Yep, I was considering using a 1/16" or a #52-#53 drill-bit shaft, and I
> would have had I not found suitable roll-pins. But then I mused that it took
> a lot of torque to break-off the roll-pins and what would break if the stud
> seizure happened again? Would the latch lever lands break instead of the
> drill-bit shaft? Who knows? that's why I used the roll-pins. (for now)
>
Another alternative for pins is stainless welding rod. It is softer than
the drill rod, yet still holds up fine in regular service. I carry a 6"
length of the rod in the flight kit and have had one occasion to quickly
fabricate a new cap pin.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, 517 hrs)
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: seats fabrics.. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Bert:
I have wondered the same thing regarding what type of fabric to use other
than leather.
One suggestion I would have is to contact any car guys in your area who have
restored cars. They should be able to direct you to the right type of
material and/or someone who would do a good job for you locally.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: seats fabrics..
> --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Dough:
>
> Thanks for the info. But I am having this done locally
> since I bought the seats from Van's.
>
> I just wanted to get som input on fabrics used
> by others...
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Yikes. 80-90# is way high, IMO. I do better with lower pressure,
closer to 30#, even for 1/8" rivets. They are done in 1.5 or 2 secs
(Using an offset rivet set like you have pictured takes longer). I also
try to keep everything exactly perpendicular or parallel to each other,
nothing in between. That helps to get good shop heads and no smileys.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan@rvproject.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 12:13 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Here's my 2 cents:
.... So crank the PSI up to 80 or
> 90 and it should cut the time in half...
>
> Hope this helps!
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Warren W Hurd" <warren@ahyup.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; "Matronics RV9 List"
> <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
> >
> > I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the
> > riveting of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly
> deformed some
> > of the factory rivet heads. See them at
> http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To
> > make the rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would
> take 3 to 4
> > seconds to make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was
> paying much to
> > much attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory
> head. I also
> > made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this better?
> >
> > Warren Hurd
> > 90454 Wings
> > http://www.ahyup.com
> > Mushroomed Rivets
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
A couple more points.
To drill out the bad rivets, I stole a technique from someone else:
Drill off the factory head. Then, use a 3/32 drill to drill most of
the way through, but being carefull to not go all the way through the
rivet. Use a 3/32 punch in this hole to tap out the rivet. You
might need to use a pair of Vice-Grips to help get the rivet off the
punch after you've tapped it out. This should allow you to get the
rivet out without doing any damage to the holes.
As far as avoiding smilies on round head rivets, a local builder
keyed me into using a small piece of hockey shin guard tape on the
rivet set. It is a thick, soft, tough tape. It helps keep the rivet
set from slipping off the rivet and it also keeps the rivet set from
marking up the rivet. The factory rivets look absolutely pristine
after they are driven.
You might think about a 3X gun for 1/8 rivets, especially if that
area of structure is very stiff. The gun has to flex the structure
when you are driving the rivet, and I suspect areas of stiff
structure might be harder to do with a 2X gun than with a 3X.
A long straight rivet set would avoid the problems of that offset set
turning, if the straight set will work in this area. That offset set
gave me hard time too, and I also screwed up a few rivets when it
turned on me. Taping it to the gun helps, but it didn't completely
stop it from turning for me.
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>Here's my 2 cents:
>
>1) Stabilize the work as best you can. Clamp it down to the bench in
>multiple places, block it with clamped/screwed down wood, etc.
>
>2) Use a partner. This ought to be #1, actually, but I think stabilization
>might cure your issues. But anyway, when smashing 1/8" AN470 rivets I
>always like to have a partner so each person can use both hands and focus
>their attention on their own side. I think it makes for better quality
>riveting.
>
>3) Maintain more force on the gun, keeping the set on that rivet until after
>it stops hammering. I find that if you release pressure even an instant too
>soon, you get smiles. So keep a good amount of force on it (thus all the
>clamping!) until it's silent, then pull the gun away.
>
>4) Use more pressure. 3 to 4 seconds is kind of a long time to shoot, but
>your mileage may vary. My opinion is that it's almost easier and more
>controllable to have a quicker, more intense burst, rather than a long,
>drawn-out buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuurst. So crank the PSI up to 80 or 90
>and it should cut the time in half...but apply good force to that machine
>head and keep the set dead centered and plumb. Use your 2nd hand's
>fingertips to brace the set.
>
>5) If all else fails, blame the bucker. 8-) Make sure the bucking bar is
>good and square. If it's not, it has the ability to knock *you* off center.
>At least that's what I've found and theorized. Also, use the heaviest
>bucking bar you've got, if possible.
>
>Hope this helps!
>)_( Dan
>RV-7 N714D
>http://www.rvproject.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Warren W Hurd" <warren@ahyup.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; "Matronics RV9 List" <rv9-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
>>
>> I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the riveting
>> of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly deformed some of the
>> factory rivet heads. See them at http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To make the
>> rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would take 3 to 4 seconds to
>> make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was paying much to much
>> attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory head.
>> I also made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make this
>> better?
>>
>> Warren Hurd
>> 90454 Wings
>> http://www.ahyup.com
>> Mushroomed Rivets
> >
>>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Engine Preheaters For Sale |
EAA Chapter 9 <EAA9@yahoogroups.com>,
Columbus Flight Watch <CFWNET@yahoogroups.com>,
COSAnet <Cosanet@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Martin Sobel <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
All:
I am moving soon to a new home where I will finally be able to start my
RV-8.
In the meantime, I have two brand new Red Dragon LT 2-12 MH200 propane
pre-heaters for sale.
New List for these items is $471.00. Will sell them for $250.00 each plus
shipping.
These pre-heaters may be seen at:
http://www.flameengineering.com/Preheater_12voltDC.html
Satisfaction guaranteed.
Martin Sobel
rv8vator@earthlink.net
740-548-5730
740-972-3243 (cell)
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale |
RV8 List <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>, EAA Chapter 9 <EAA9@yahoogroups.com>,
Columbus Flight Watch <CFWNET@yahoogroups.com>,
COSAnet <Cosanet@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Martin Sobel <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
All:
In another life, I built bicycle assist engines under the trade name of
Terratran Manufacturing. These engines were fitted to DAHON Folding Bicycles
to make a neat 40 lb. motor scooter that would fit in most airplanes.
I have several of these folders in my basement and since I am moving soon, I
need to get rid of them.
Most are 20" wheel bikes with 7 speed internal hubs (no derailleurs) with a
disk brake that does not fade when wet.
These bikes will make an excellent Christmas gift(s) for any pilot.
I also have several 16" bikes including a rare stainless steel model.
If any one wants a new DAHON Folder including the newest full size aluminum
folders, I can make them available at very good prices.
Martin Sobel
rv8vator@earthlink.net
740-548-5730
740-972-3243 (cell)
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Amendment:
I overlooked that you are using a 2X. The numbers I referenced below I
used for my 3X.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Bowen [mailto:Larry@bowenaero.com]
> Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 1:22 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> Yikes. 80-90# is way high, IMO. I do better with lower pressure,
> closer to 30#, even for 1/8" rivets. They are done in 1.5 or
> 2 secs (Using an offset rivet set like you have pictured
> takes longer). I also try to keep everything exactly
> perpendicular or parallel to each other, nothing in between.
> That helps to get good shop heads and no smileys.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Dan Checkoway [mailto:dan@rvproject.com]
> > Sent: Sunday, September 28, 2003 12:13 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > Here's my 2 cents:
> .... So crank the PSI up to 80 or
> > 90 and it should cut the time in half...
> >
> > Hope this helps!
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Warren W Hurd" <warren@ahyup.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; "Matronics RV9 List"
> > <rv9-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Bad wing rib to spar rivets
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
> > >
> > > I have been happy with most of my rivets until now. During the
> > > riveting of the wing ribs to the main wing spar I badly
> > deformed some
> > > of the factory rivet heads. See them at
> > http://www.ahyup.com/Rivet/ To
> > > make the rivets I used a 2X gun at about 60 psi. It would
> > take 3 to 4
> > > seconds to make the shop head to my satisfaction. I was
> > paying much to
> > > much attention to the shop head and ignoring the factory
> > head. I also
> > > made some smileys in the ribs. What should I do to make
> this better?
> > >
> > > Warren Hurd
> > > 90454 Wings
> > > http://www.ahyup.com
> > > Mushroomed Rivets
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Mike,
thank you, I actually have one aircraft certified one way, and one the other
way.
I didn't realize that there was a fix for this in Part 23. I'm just one A&P
instructor against 23000 of you guys changing things all the time. Its hard
to keep up, particularly when all the engineer's keep throwing fancy new
fangle turds into the punch bowl ;{)
I would reflect "keeping up, or not" is the root cause for most of the wierd
horror stories we often hear about government institutions dealing with the
public. Nobody can keep up with it all. Thanks for being one of the good
guys trying to fix that.
W
do not archive
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Warren: Just my $0.02 but I found early on that a 3X gun was much easier for
me to use on AD4 rivets than the 2X. The 3X will hit slower and harder making
it much easier for me to control. Also, 60 psi in a 2X seems awfully high to
me. I suspect that this gun is hitting so fast and hard that it would be
very difficult to keep centered on the factory head under the best circumstance,
let alone with an offset set which is a pain to use at any time. You can also
try putting a small piece of masking tape in the cup of the rivet set, this
worked very well for me and the number of smilies dropped dramatically after I
discovered this trick.
As for the bad rivets, try to center punch the center of the rivet, not the
center of the now offset head, and drill first with a #40 bit. Now that you
can see where the rivet shaft is, drill off the factory head with a #30 (or
larger, but be very careful not to drill into the wing spar web). Now you need
chunk of metal (unused face of a bucking bar works OK) with a hole in it large
enough to accept the shop head of the bad rivet and deep enough to accept the
full length of the bad rivet. This is your backing bar. Now for the fun part,
hold the backing bar firmly under the bad rivet with one hand with the shop
head in the hole, place a 1/8 in. punch on the now exposed factory head end of
the rivet with your other hand and with a small ball peen hammer in your third
hand whack the punch until the bum rivet is driven out (BTW, since I am
unfortunate enough to only have two hands this is where cajole my wife into holding
one of the above items).
Hope some of this rambling nonsense is useful.
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, firewall forward
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Lock tabs on carb |
Folks,
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
I responding to the comment about using lock tabs to fix the fasteners for
the FAB adaptor plate to the carb.
I believe one of our local guys recently had a portion of the lock tab get
disgested by a cylinder. (I walked into that conversation mid stream so I
may have misheard it)
In any event I drilled heads and safetied these fasteners with ss wire and
would recommend that as the only appropriate method for these bolts. I am
also not very big on Vans use of nutplates and centering tabs inside of the
air filter, and therefore consider these critical inspection items every 25
hours. Given the fact that the carb is moving and the end of the FAB is semi
fixed to the cowl, the nutplates and fasteners in there are subject to a lot
of activity. So far no signs of wear.
W
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Scuppers and Velcro |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
RE RV-6 outlet,
I have left mine long appx 1.25", then cut it even, then made it even but
with an 11 deg flare outwards all the way around, then cut it 1" short at an
angle, then tried an outlet airflow alignment baffle, then tried several
simple inlet aligment baffles, and nothing changed in any of the attempts to
either CHT or OT. But I had fun. ;{)
My temps aren't terrible given that I live in the south west, but it would
be nice to see them a few degrees lower. OT is normally 200, and CHT is
390-420 when playing around in a 85-95 deg day. But if I climb or slow
flight for awhile they both start looking for red.
My current experiment is to see what the temp difference is between the
spark plug probe and the in head probe, then I am going to change the oil
cooler inlet to a more tapered design rather than Vans folded box design. I
believe it was Beech Aircraft who one time fixed an oil temp problem by
moving the probe to a cooler location. Its kinda like these posts, if you
don't like what you're reading than read something else. ;{)
I guess Vans overall cooling design is to get just enough cooling so that
drag is minimized. To bad he lives in the cool climes of Oregon.
RE velcro, it also helps to not have any corners on stickum stuff. Cut them
round so the sharp corners don't curl up.
W
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Corrosion inside a fuel tank cap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Regarding the corrosion inside the fuel caps, this is apparently common.
I took mine apart and cleaned them up. Prior to re-assembling them, I
gobbered them up with EZ Turn (formerly called Fuel Lube). This stuff
is really handy for many things, I even keep a little 35mm film canister
in the plane with a little glob of it inside. Also good for holding
washers/nuts etc. to one's finger for tough to assemble areas.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 375 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Prices and shipping costs, Please
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Sobel" <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
List" <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>; "EAA Chapter 9" <EAA9@yahoogroups.com>;
"Columbus Flight Watch" <CFWNET@yahoogroups.com>; "COSAnet"
<Cosanet@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: Martin Sobel <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
>
> All:
>
> In another life, I built bicycle assist engines under the trade name of
> Terratran Manufacturing. These engines were fitted to DAHON Folding
Bicycles
> to make a neat 40 lb. motor scooter that would fit in most airplanes.
>
> I have several of these folders in my basement and since I am moving soon,
I
> need to get rid of them.
>
> Most are 20" wheel bikes with 7 speed internal hubs (no derailleurs) with
a
> disk brake that does not fade when wet.
>
> These bikes will make an excellent Christmas gift(s) for any pilot.
>
> I also have several 16" bikes including a rare stainless steel model.
>
> If any one wants a new DAHON Folder including the newest full size
aluminum
> folders, I can make them available at very good prices.
>
> Martin Sobel
> rv8vator@earthlink.net
> 740-548-5730
> 740-972-3243 (cell)
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Hassel" <bob@hassel-usa.com>
Ah once again a very good thread. It's interesting to hear what techniques
work for different folks.
First off for reference I use a 2x Sioux generally 40 - 60 pounds depending
what I'm doing (with a 25' hose).
I prefer the offset shank to the straight one. I don't get smilies on the
large rivets with the offset but for some reason with the straight shank I
do. I was surprised to run in to other folks that had the same experience
including one of our local guru's and DAR. Of course this is Texas so our
shanks tend to be bigger.... (I'm ducking).
Also I use a pin vice when drilling out bad rivets. This can be picked up
at most hobby shops and is basically a small shank like tool used to hold a
drill bit. I use a real small bit, center it and turn it by hand. Then I
go to a larger bit. This allows me to get the starter holes in the center
of what I perceive the is the shaft of the rivet. After that a few pops
with my Sioux drill and it's out.
Bob Hassel
RV9A on hold / RV10 soon!
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Bad wing rib to spar rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>A long straight rivet set would avoid the problems of that offset set
>turning, if the straight set will work in this area. That offset set
>gave me hard time too, and I also screwed up a few rivets when it
>turned on me. Taping it to the gun helps, but it didn't completely
>stop it from turning for me.
I have just submitted a couple of photos to the Matronics Photo Share of my
double off-set rivet set holder that secures the set firmly in the gun so
that it does NOT rotate.
One of these days I will submit Photos of a variety of tools which I
home-made in 1995 when I was waiting for my kits to be delivered:
C-Frame
Pneumatic cleco installer / remover
Edge roller
Cut-off wheel holder
Squeezer anvils for crimping #4 & #8
terminals
Plus others I can't think of at the moment
Cheers!! Henry Hore
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Gear Leg Stiffeners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Well today I installed the wood gear leg stiffeners. I know, from reading
the archives, that many builders are happy/surprised that not putting in the
wood stiffeners has not resulted in shimmies and was not needed.
I thought through the process of doing it and not. I thought that not doing
it and having a shimmy would not be good for my co-pilot 's (wife) peace of
mind. So,,, I went to the local aviation dept of Lowes and bought a 10'
length of molding. Cost $7.69. I used my Mother-in-Laws radial arm saw and
cut the molding per plans and glued it together with some Sears wood glue.
Next day I hued and sanded it down and mixed up some epoxy with flux to get
a consistency of runny peanut butter. I poured the mixture slowly into the
grooved angle of the two wood anti-shimmy legs and taped it tightly on the
aft side of the gear leg (after cleaning with a piece of scotch brite).
Watched it ever hour or so for any leakage. Let it cure overnight. Next
day I fitted the completed gear leg fairing and aligned according to plans
with the legs off the ground. I had to sand the wood stiffener just a bit
to get the fairing to fit without a conflict with the stiffener. Then I
removed the faring and wrapped the wood stiffener with 3" fiberglass tape to
get three overlapping layers and epoxied each layer well and covered with
peal ply tape and the next day it was ready. Final sanded it just a bit to
get rid of a couple of rough edges. The fairing fits over it like a glove.
Is the wood stiffener needed? I will never know. But if I hadn't taken
this step and had a shimmy problem after completing the plane, I am sure it
would be way more than 6 hours or effort and discomfort for me. AND did I
mention: My co-pilot's/passenger's peace of mind will not be challenged.
Weight? I'd say the whole thing is probably 6 oz or less, $7.69, and about
6 hours. I will sleep tonight knowing it is under that leg fairing, out of
sight. I know -- and for me -- that is important.
My suggestion to you? Answering that is too easy -- You decide for
yourself. ( But I say: what is 6 hours and 6 oz. considering the whole
project? )
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit and fire wall forward
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fwd: FW: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
List:
Posting for a fellow RV-8A owner. Please contact Wayne direct.
> Complete Vacuum System: Sigma Tek TSOd DG and AI 8 tilt; Rapco pump with
> full install kit, gauge and shroud; flown 90hrs, changing to EFIS; $1200.
> rwayne@adelphia.net, 434-797-3919.
>
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>
Subject: FW: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List...
I thought you had to be a member to post. Could you do it? Or, tell me how
to join? Thanks.
(The message is at the very bottom of all this stuff.)
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Matronics Email Bounce Service [mailto:bounces@matronics.com]
Subject: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List...
--
-- "Poster: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>"
-- "Subject: vacuum system for sale"
--
-- The message below was not posted to the RV-List because the
-- poster is not a member of any Email List on the Matronics Email System.
--
-- Note that this check can be triggered in some cases where your
-- your message's From: address isn't an *exact* match to the email
-- address that is subscribed. An example of this might be where
-- you are subscribed to a List as:
--
-- "joe@internet.com"
--
-- but your email message's From: line shows your address as:
--
-- "joe@email.internet.com"
--
-- While these may be functionally the same email address, there is
-- no way for the receiving email system to determine that they are
-- in fact actually the same address.
--
-- If this has occured to you while posting a message to a List here at
-- Matronics, please either change your email application's configuration
-- so that your From: line matches the email address you have subscribed
-- as, or go to the Subscription Web Site and unsubscribe your old email
-- address an subscribe your actual email address. The Matronics Email
-- List Subscription Web Page can be found at:
--
-- http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
--
-- Thank you for your interest in these Email Lists,
--
-- Matt Dralle
-- Matronics Email List Administrator
-- dralle@matronics.com
--
--
>-------------------
>
>
> From rwayne@gamewood.net Sat Sep 27 14:02:41 2003
> Received: from barracuda.matronics.com (barracuda.matronics.com
[66.92.24.21])
> by matronics.com (8.11.6/8.11.0/Rbl-Orbs-Dul) with ESMTP id h8RL2fH20482
> Received: from mta1.adelphia.net (mta1.adelphia.net [68.168.78.175])
> by barracuda.matronics.com (Barracuda Spam Firewall) with ESMTP id
130BC200008B
> Received: from williams ([67.21.150.2]) by mta1.adelphia.net
> (InterMail vM.5.01.05.32 201-253-122-126-132-20030307) with SMTP
> From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: vacuum system for sale
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 17:03:02 -0400
> Message-ID: <FOEAIBCGDFKHKHHDIGBIIEEECDAA.rwayne@gamewood.net>
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.6604 (9.0.2911.0)
> Importance: Normal
> X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165
> X-Virus-Scanned: by Barracuda Networks Anti-Spam/Anti-virus Gateway at
matronics.com
>
> Something important for RV builders:
>
> Complete Vacuum System: Sigma Tek TSOd DG and AI 8 tilt; Rapco pump with
> full install kit, gauge and shroud; flown 90hrs, changing to EFIS; $1200.
rwayne@adelphia.net, 434-797-3919.
>
>
>-------------------
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Vacumn Pump for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
> Complete Vacuum System: Sigma Tek TSOd DG and AI 8 tilt; Rapco pump with
> full install kit, gauge and shroud; flown 90hrs, changing to EFIS; $1200.
> rwayne@adelphia.net, 434-797-3919.
>
From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>
Subject: FW: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List...
I thought you had to be a member to post. Could you do it? Or, tell me how
to join? Thanks.
(The message is at the very bottom of all this stuff.)
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: Matronics Email Bounce Service [mailto:bounces@matronics.com]
Subject: Message *Not* Posted to RV-List...
--
-- "Poster: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>"
-- "Subject: vacuum system for sale"
--
-- The message below was not posted to the RV-List because the
-- poster is not a member of any Email List on the Matronics Email System.
--
-- Note that this check can be triggered in some cases where your
-- your message's From: address isn't an *exact* match to the email
-- address that is subscribed. An example of this might be where
-- you are subscribed to a List as:
--
-- "joe@internet.com"
--
-- but your email message's From: line shows your address as:
--
-- "joe@email.internet.com"
--
-- While these may be functionally the same email address, there is
-- no way for the receiving email system to determine that they are
-- in fact actually the same address.
--
-- If this has occured to you while posting a message to a List here at
-- Matronics, please either change your email application's configuration
-- so that your From: line matches the email address you have subscribed
-- as, or go to the Subscription Web Site and unsubscribe your old email
-- address an subscribe your actual email address. The Matronics Email
-- List Subscription Web Page can be found at:
--
-- http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
--
-- Thank you for your interest in these Email Lists,
--
-- Matt Dralle
-- Matronics Email List Administrator
-- dralle@matronics.com
--
--
>-------------------
>
>
> From rwayne@gamewood.net Sat Sep 27 14:02:41 2003
> Received: from barracuda.matronics.com (barracuda.matronics.com
[66.92.24.21])
> by matronics.com (8.11.6/8.11.0/Rbl-Orbs-Dul) with ESMTP id h8RL2fH20482
> Received: from mta1.adelphia.net (mta1.adelphia.net [68.168.78.175])
> by barracuda.matronics.com (Barracuda Spam Firewall) with ESMTP id
130BC200008B
> Received: from williams ([67.21.150.2]) by mta1.adelphia.net
> (InterMail vM.5.01.05.32 201-253-122-126-132-20030307) with SMTP
> From: "Wayne Williams" <rwayne@gamewood.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: vacuum system for sale
> Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 17:03:02 -0400
> Message-ID: <FOEAIBCGDFKHKHHDIGBIIEEECDAA.rwayne@gamewood.net>
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
> X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.6604 (9.0.2911.0)
> Importance: Normal
> X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165
> X-Virus-Scanned: by Barracuda Networks Anti-Spam/Anti-virus Gateway at
matronics.com
>
> Something important for RV builders:
>
> Complete Vacuum System: Sigma Tek TSOd DG and AI 8 tilt; Rapco pump with
> full install kit, gauge and shroud; flown 90hrs, changing to EFIS; $1200.
rwayne@adelphia.net, 434-797-3919.
>
>
>-------------------
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rv list Hartzell Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Does anyone out there know what the combination of
stud,washer,nut and locking arrangement is used when mounting a Hartzell
to a O-320 B3B? Also I have one aluminum 12 in. spinner and a 12 in.
fiberglass spinner that I would like to sell/trade for a 13 in.
Joel "Weasel" Graber
RV-4 Finishing
Brooksville Ms
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Putting an Epoxy Primer over Van's Wash Primer used on QB kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com>
I have a RV8A QB Kit and plan to spray the Cockpit
Area with Sterling U1201G (2 part epoxy primer, green
in color - which I have used before). This Primer
(MIL-P_ 223377G) is tough as nails. It is perfect for
a "high wear area", such as a cockpit, and then plan
to spray over it with grey Tempo Epoxy Propeller Paint
for the finish grey color coat. Propeller paint is
tough too. I have some test samples of this sitting
on my roof aging in the weather, since April 03.
How have you Builders prepared the Wash Primer, that
Van's uses on their QB Kits, prior to putting a Primer
or Paint over it?
1) Clean off with Denatured Alcohol, then paint?
2) Lightly scuff using Red Scotchbrite Pads, then
clean with Denatured Alcohol, then paint ?
What worked for you and how did your process "wear
with time" ?
FYI according to MIL Specs on Wash Primers, they do
NOT provide corrosion protection unless top coated
with a "real" primer or paint.
Thanks, Garey Santa Monica, CA
__________________________________
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | [ Henry Hore ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Henry Hore <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Rivet-gun double off-set holder for one hand operation.
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com.09.28.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Gear Leg Stiffeners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Hi Larry,
Not certain which Model RV you have, but will tell you a tale about the
stiffeners that has nothing to do with shimmy. I once had to make a panic
stop after aborting a take off (was around 10-20' in the air and around
80mph taking off from a 2300 ft runway).
I had many times rehershed in my mind what I would do should I ever face
the need to abort at various stages in the take off. My guideline was and
is I would rather go off the end of the runway doing 30 MPH than find myself
airborn with less viable options. I know others may disagree and that
fine. Anyhow, within a second of the problem occuring, I was committed to
putting the bird back on the ground, but that I knew I needed ever inch of
remaining runway to get stopped - if that were even possible. So I dove for
the runway and planted my bird on that runway hard, firmly pushing the
stick forward as I touched down to keep it there (fortunately did not
bounce). I slammed down 300 ft (measured) from the end of the runway (Boy!
was the end of that runway coming up like an express train). Immediately
got on the binders - HARD!. Fortunately had a nose wheel and the stiffeners
on the main gear. Stopped 12 ft off the end of the runway in the mowed
grass with no damage to aircraft or self (well, seat cushion, underwear,
heart rate, nerves,etc were a bit perturbed).
After getting my legs steady enough to get out. I went back and looked at
my touch down point and followed the twin trails of black rubber from that
point to the end of the runway. There were no skips or hops or skid marks
(wheels locked) just two solid lines of that soft rubber compound that ate
into that tramac and slowed me from (must have been close to 75-80MPH on
touchdown) to zero in 312 ft. I am absolutely convinced that if I had not
had the wood stiffeners on my gear that the force of the panic braking would
have sprung those steel rods backwards, until their spring action would have
popped the wheels forward, then back, then forward, etc. I am certain I
would have survived the abort but the aircraft would have probably ended up
in the gully at that end of the runway and a series of skipping wheel marks.
So, the stiffeners may not be needed 99.99999.... % of the time, but just
once is enough.
FWIW
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Stiffeners
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> Well today I installed the wood gear leg stiffeners. I know, from reading
> the archives, that many builders are happy/surprised that not putting in
the
> wood stiffeners has not resulted in shimmies and was not needed.
>
> I thought through the process of doing it and not. I thought that not
doing
> it and having a shimmy would not be good for my co-pilot 's (wife) peace
of
> mind. So,,, I went to the local aviation dept of Lowes and bought a 10'
> length of molding. Cost $7.69. I used my Mother-in-Laws radial arm saw
and
> cut the molding per plans and glued it together with some Sears wood glue.
> Next day I hued and sanded it down and mixed up some epoxy with flux to
get
> a consistency of runny peanut butter. I poured the mixture slowly into
the
> grooved angle of the two wood anti-shimmy legs and taped it tightly on the
> aft side of the gear leg (after cleaning with a piece of scotch brite).
> Watched it ever hour or so for any leakage. Let it cure overnight. Next
> day I fitted the completed gear leg fairing and aligned according to plans
> with the legs off the ground. I had to sand the wood stiffener just a bit
> to get the fairing to fit without a conflict with the stiffener. Then I
> removed the faring and wrapped the wood stiffener with 3" fiberglass tape
to
> get three overlapping layers and epoxied each layer well and covered with
> peal ply tape and the next day it was ready. Final sanded it just a bit
to
> get rid of a couple of rough edges. The fairing fits over it like a
glove.
>
> Is the wood stiffener needed? I will never know. But if I hadn't taken
> this step and had a shimmy problem after completing the plane, I am sure
it
> would be way more than 6 hours or effort and discomfort for me. AND did I
> mention: My co-pilot's/passenger's peace of mind will not be challenged.
>
> Weight? I'd say the whole thing is probably 6 oz or less, $7.69, and
about
> 6 hours. I will sleep tonight knowing it is under that leg fairing, out
of
> sight. I know -- and for me -- that is important.
>
> My suggestion to you? Answering that is too easy -- You decide for
> yourself. ( But I say: what is 6 hours and 6 oz. considering the whole
> project? )
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> On Finish Kit and fire wall forward
>
>
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "aronsond" <aronsond@pacbell.net>
Martin:
Where can I go to see what they look like?
DCa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Sobel" <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
List" <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>; "EAA Chapter 9" <EAA9@yahoogroups.com>;
"Columbus Flight Watch" <CFWNET@yahoogroups.com>; "COSAnet"
<Cosanet@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: DAHON Folding Bicycles for Sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: Martin Sobel <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
>
> All:
>
> In another life, I built bicycle assist engines under the trade name of
> Terratran Manufacturing. These engines were fitted to DAHON Folding
Bicycles
> to make a neat 40 lb. motor scooter that would fit in most airplanes.
>
> I have several of these folders in my basement and since I am moving soon,
I
> need to get rid of them.
>
> Most are 20" wheel bikes with 7 speed internal hubs (no derailleurs) with
a
> disk brake that does not fade when wet.
>
> These bikes will make an excellent Christmas gift(s) for any pilot.
>
> I also have several 16" bikes including a rare stainless steel model.
>
> If any one wants a new DAHON Folder including the newest full size
aluminum
> folders, I can make them available at very good prices.
>
> Martin Sobel
> rv8vator@earthlink.net
> 740-548-5730
> 740-972-3243 (cell)
>
>
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
I guess I missed early postings on builders establishing individual limitations.
Too busy sniffing lacquer thinner or bucking rivets without ear muffs.
Somehow I presumed experimental aircraft builders/manufacturers had to design
AND test the plane to establish limits. I guess that's one freedom of the experimental
world. Also we are only talking about adding 10% to Van's "recommended"
gross weight.
Are builders documenting the aforementioned considerations and procedures in
thier flight manual for these type loadings for those who might pilot the aircraft?
Or am I showing my big airplane/conservative slant again?
Thanks for all the informative responses. All the info from the list has definitely
leveraged my building progress, one of these days I will be flying...
(at my gross weight!)
Aloha.
Greg
Paul Besing <azpilot@extremezone.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing"
CG is more of an issue than weight with this airplane (unless you are
talking about pulling more g's) . My 6A weight and balance is listed as
1750 pounds gross. The weight and balance is claimed by the builder, not
the kit manufacturer. Van's has listed 1650 as what old blue was set at.
On the record van's will tell you that you *should* set your max gross at
1650. Off the record, they will tell you that 1800 is fine, just watch the
CG as you burn fuel. I've been loaded to 1700 wihout a problem. Just have
to watch the fuel burn. I landed with alot of fuel burned and it required
alot of power on landing to keep her level. As long as the pilot ensures
that all turns are shallow, no aerobatics, no abrupt maneuvers, etc, this
airplane will fly fine at 1800.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson"
Subject: Re: RV-List: W&B on a -6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson
>
> Doug,
> What engineering design changes did you make to Van's standard RV 6A
aircraft to permit a gross weight of 1800 lbs? The RV 6A has been designed
and tested to certain load limitations by the kit manufacturer (my RV 6A
manual states maximum gross weight as 1650 lbs). Any alteration of these
limitations would require certain design changes and possibly flight
testing. To forgo such a process is not prudent in my opinion. I hope I
have mistakenly misinterpreted your posting, if so I apologize in advance.
>
> Safe Flying!
> Aloha
> Greg Grigson
>
> dmedema@att.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> I recently weighed my plane both level and in the
> normal on-ground attitude. The results were very
> interesting to me so I thought I would share them.
> I originally weighed it in the normal on-ground
> attitude thinking I could convert it to level values
> using some trig. It turns out you need to know the
> exact height of the real center-of-gravity to do
> this calculation. I made an estimate based on the
> W&B drawings from Van's but didn't feel comfortable
> with it. I built some ramps to get it level and
> re-weighed it to get it right. Here are the results
>
> On-ground Level
> Nose tire: 236 272
> Right tire: 396 377
> Left tire: 394 378
>
> The total weight was only 1 pound different which I
> consider a good sign of repeatability for the scales.
> The empty weight c.g. for the on-ground numbers
> is 70.45 inches while for level, it is 68.51.
> I'm putting my airplane's gross at 1800 which will
> allow me to have two 225lb. people, full fuel, and
> over 90 pounds of baggage and still stay in proper
> c.g. range and gross weight. C.G. is still ok after
> all the fuel is used in this scenario.
>
> I was quite surprised that lifting the main gear
> approximately 4 inches transferred 36 more pounds
> onto the front gear. For reference, the plane is
> unpainted with minimal interior. It has an 0-320-E2D
> with standard starter, Van's 35 amp alternator, an
> Odyssey battery just in front of the firewall, and
> a fixed pitch Sensenich prop.
>
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM ready for inspection!
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
---------------------------------
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|