Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:59 AM - Looking for Tampa area builder (Not RV) (Russ Werner)
2. 01:56 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Cy Galley)
3. 04:37 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Dana Overall)
4. 04:52 AM - Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Charlie Kuss)
5. 05:12 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Jerry Springer)
6. 05:40 AM - Re: LPS-1 vs LPS-2 (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
7. 05:57 AM - Re: LPS-1 vs LPS-2 (Wayne R. Couture)
8. 05:59 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Allan.James@hstna.com)
9. 06:02 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (James E. Clark)
10. 06:24 AM - Re: RV frame of mind (Jim Sears)
11. 06:49 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Don Mack)
12. 07:01 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
13. 07:21 AM - Re: Fuel lines 6A (DWENSING@aol.com)
14. 07:34 AM - Jim Sears offensive comments on RV frame of mind (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
15. 08:21 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Laird Owens)
16. 09:37 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (lm4@juno.com)
17. 09:57 AM - Tilt option for slider (Larygagnon@aol.com)
18. 10:09 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Jeff Point)
19. 10:09 AM - Electric elevator trim (Allan.James@hstna.com)
20. 10:19 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Larry Bowen)
21. 10:22 AM - Re: Tilt option for slider ()
22. 10:22 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (P M Condon)
23. 10:25 AM - Re: Tilt option for slider (Jeff Point)
24. 10:35 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Finn Lassen)
25. 10:47 AM - Re: Tilt option for slider ()
26. 11:42 AM - Re: Re: RV List (Gkb5577@aol.com)
27. 11:52 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Jeff Point)
28. 11:56 AM - Re: Re: Kit Caution (Gkb5577@aol.com)
29. 11:59 AM - Re: Re: RV Comments (Gkb5577@aol.com)
30. 12:56 PM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (Bob)
31. 01:03 PM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Dave Bristol)
32. 01:23 PM - Re: Fuel lines 6A (Dave Bristol)
33. 02:36 PM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (Rob Prior)
34. 02:40 PM - Dimpler (Gkb5577@aol.com)
35. 03:09 PM - Re: Jim Sears offensive comments on RV frame of mind (Jim Sears)
36. 03:51 PM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Dana Overall)
37. 04:13 PM - RV-4 Extended Length IP question (N223RV@aol.com)
38. 04:49 PM - Re: Fuel lines 6A (hollandm)
39. 05:20 PM - Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question (Charlie & Tupper England)
40. 05:40 PM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (Alex Peterson)
41. 05:42 PM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (Alex Peterson)
42. 06:11 PM - Re: Jim Sears offensive comments on RV frame of mind (Jerry Springer)
43. 06:13 PM - Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question (Jim Streit)
44. 06:20 PM - Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question (Joe Hine)
45. 06:31 PM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Jerry Springer)
46. 06:33 PM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Jerry Springer)
47. 07:29 PM - Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question (Doug Rozendaal)
48. 07:59 PM - Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question (John Starn)
49. 08:53 PM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (Rob Prior)
50. 08:54 PM - Re: Fuel lines 6A (Gil Alexander)
51. 09:07 PM - Re: Electric elevator trim (Karie Daniel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Looking for Tampa area builder (Not RV) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Russ Werner" <russ@wernerworld.com>
I'm looking for a Tampa area builder who might be able to look over a BMW
I'm thinking of purchasing used from someone in Tampa, FL. Anyone with the
time and interest who might be able to help out a fellow builder, drop me a
line at the email below.
Please do not respond to this message to reply.
Thanks,
Russ Werner
russ@wernerworld
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
There is NO 51% rule for the "limited repairman's certificate."
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: <WMPALM@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV frame of mind
> --> RV-List message posted by: WMPALM@aol.com
>
> Geoff,
>
> Probably the best way to find a partially-completed kit is by
"word-of-mouth"
> in your local area. Shipping is certainly cheaper, and you can inspect
the
> kit relatively easily. A second option is Trade-A-Plane, but it's likely
to be
> more of a hassle. Note that you'll have to purchase a kit that is less
than
> 50% complete in order to qualify for the repairman certificate.
>
> If you're going the RV route and are looking to build as fast as possible,
> you can't beat Van's Quick Build kits.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Bill
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Geoff,
Couple thoughts on buying a partially completed kit in today's RV market.
The newer kits come pre punched which saves the builder a tremendous amount
of time and effort. Since these are newer to the market, there a fewer of
them on the market for sale at this point. I have seen very, very few of
these come up for sale. If you are looking for a 6 or 7 a case in point for
illustration would be the fuselage. I built my 7 fuselage to quickbuild
stage in 2.5 months on three sawhorses and did most of the riveting by
myself with the fuselage sitting right side up. As best as I can tell, it
is somewhere between .04 to .09 of a degree out of true. My smart level
continually joggles between .1 degree and 0.0 when sitting on the aft deck.
A 6 fuselage must be jigged and is not pre punch. While most would say this
is not an issue I would say a wooden jig built to between .04 and .09 would
not stay that way with weather changes over the more extended building time.
I am really, really not wanting to offend any 6 builders here, just adding
my personnal insight to provide Geoff with information. The newer stuff is
just much easier to build.
I would certainly not take less for my project, I'm getting ready to mount
the wings this weekend, than I paid for it. Would a builder of a newer kit
want more out his project if it is at the QB stage than one from Van's, you
got me. One issue would be it's immediate availability though.
If a good project comes along, go for it but remember the newer pre punched
kits from Van's are an absolute bargain and the ease of construction will be
beyond your expectations.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail
Message 4
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| Subject: | Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
I'm looking for a stereo panel mount intercom for my 8A. The consensus seems to
be that the PS Engineering intercoms are the best. The are also the most expensive.
I'd like to know what listers using the Flightcom 403S or 403D think of
these units. Is anyone using Softcom's ATC-2PS? Any other units I should look
at?
Charlie Kuss
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Another way to look at this Dana is that my old fashioned RV-6 kit took
me 20 months from start to
flying including building wooden jigs that did not warp at all over that
building time. Can you build your
quick built that fast ? :-) Sounds like maybe he wants a bargin and I
believe some of the best bargins out
there are some of the old kits that were never finished.
Jerry
do not archvie
Dana Overall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>Geoff,
>
>Couple thoughts on buying a partially completed kit in today's RV market.
>The newer kits come pre punched which saves the builder a tremendous amount
>of time and effort. Since these are newer to the market, there a fewer of
>them on the market for sale at this point. I have seen very, very few of
>these come up for sale. If you are looking for a 6 or 7 a case in point for
>illustration would be the fuselage. I built my 7 fuselage to quickbuild
>stage in 2.5 months on three sawhorses and did most of the riveting by
>myself with the fuselage sitting right side up. As best as I can tell, it
>is somewhere between .04 to .09 of a degree out of true. My smart level
>continually joggles between .1 degree and 0.0 when sitting on the aft deck.
>A 6 fuselage must be jigged and is not pre punch. While most would say this
>is not an issue I would say a wooden jig built to between .04 and .09 would
>not stay that way with weather changes over the more extended building time.
> I am really, really not wanting to offend any 6 builders here, just adding
>my personnal insight to provide Geoff with information. The newer stuff is
>just much easier to build.
>
>I would certainly not take less for my project, I'm getting ready to mount
>the wings this weekend, than I paid for it. Would a builder of a newer kit
>want more out his project if it is at the QB stage than one from Van's, you
>got me. One issue would be it's immediate availability though.
>
>If a good project comes along, go for it but remember the newer pre punched
>kits from Van's are an absolute bargain and the ease of construction will be
>beyond your expectations.
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments. Get Hotmail
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: LPS-1 vs LPS-2 |
09/30/2003 07:06:33 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
You are slightly incorrect.
LPS1 is greseless
LPS2 has slightly more viscosity than LPS1
the higher the number the higher the sticking ability of the spray. We use
it on corporate jets in all variants. It is great stuff.
Just to let you know LPS also makes contact cleaner which works great to
clean contacts and can also be used to debris from oil buildup etc.
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: LPS-1 vs LPS-2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
LPS comes in a -1, -2, and -3. Generally -1 is the lightest and -3 is the
heaviest. The higher the number, the longer it will last if allowed to dry.
The -3 will reportedly last a year. I believe all three are made with
vegetable oil and will not harm plastics. Hope this helps.
Wayne
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: LPS-1 vs LPS-2
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
> Guys,
>
> Does anybody know what the practical application difference is between
LPS-1 and LPS-2 for general purpose lubrication? The former contains grease
and the latter is greaseless if memory serves me correctly. Seems that
the -1 with grease might hold up longer (i.e. be less likely to wash or
evaporate out). Just thought I'd tap into the endless knowledge and wisdom
of The Great RV-List to see if anybody has a revelation on which one to use
for various applications like rod end bearings, piano hinges, and various
FWF linkages and assemblies--and why one is better than the other for said
application.
>
> Forever indebted,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D painting...painting...painting...
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
18, 2001) at 09/30/2003 09:00:20 AM,
Serialize complete at 09/30/2003 09:00:20 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Allan.James@hstna.com
Listers,
I just completed the installation of the elevator electric trim.
After riveting everything together, I found where the platenuts overlapped
the opening in the reinforcement plate prevented me from inserting the
cover plate with the servo. I ended up grinding down five of the plate
nuts where the overhung the opening. I don't recall seeing any mention of
this in the archives or any where else. Has anyone else run into this, or
did I do something wrong?
Thanks,
Allan James
Michigan
RV7A - Emp - Elevators
N322AR
Message 9
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| Subject: | Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
DRE 244e.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
> Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 7:51 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Stereo intercom opinions wanted
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers,
> I'm looking for a stereo panel mount intercom for my 8A. The
> consensus seems to be that the PS Engineering intercoms are the
> best. The are also the most expensive. I'd like to know what
> listers using the Flightcom 403S or 403D think of these units. Is
> anyone using Softcom's ATC-2PS? Any other units I should look at?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
I just read Dana's and Jerry's two inputs to this discussion. I applaud
Jerry for having taken just 20 months to build his RV using the old style
kits. It took me 7.5 years to build my -6A. Why? I had an airplane to
fly and wasn't pressured to get mine done. I also agree with Dana that it
would be better if one could snap up one of the newer kits. They do go
together much faster. I helped Jim Render get his -9A quick build in the
air in eleven months of part time work. I was very impressed with the kits
we worked with and am looking forward to doing one of my own, when I can get
around to it. :-)
My spending a lot of time at Pat Patterson's Miles Field near Shelbyville,
KY has helped me to learn a bit about the used kit market. There are plenty
of them out there to be had, if one takes his time to look. Pat buys and
sells partially built kits as a hobby and has involved me in getting some of
them ready to fly, etc. Granted, I didn't spend great amounts of my time
helping him; but, my exposure to the used kit market has been greatly
appreciated and very enlightening. Thanks, Pat!
Alas, there is one rub in what I've been seeing in some of the incomplete
kits that are for sale. The kits seem to run the gauntlet between being of
superior quality to being death traps looking for an unsuspecting victim.
Believe me, there are far more of the latter than the former. At least,
that's what I've witnessed. If you're looking for a partially built kit to
finish, be sure to have someone with you who's got the knowledge of that kit
to look at it with you. Make sure that person believes in building a
quality airplane so that something inferior in the kit in question will be
pointed out before you've bought it and found that it's going to take a lot
of work, or just plain throwing away of a portion of it, to fix the problems
found. I'm not saying that you must find the perfect kit before buying it.
Just be aware of what it will take to fix the problems and buy it
accordingly. Never buy a kit over the telephone without looking at it in
person. As Jerry said, there are some mighty fine older kits out there
looking to be finished and can be had a good prices. Just be careful when
you start looking.
One other thing one wants to be aware of. One should be careful of any kit
that's been advertised as being A&P, or professionally, built. Granted, I'm
sure many of the A but, some of
the worst homebuilt kits I've seen were done by A&Ps. It's as if they
threw out everything they've ever learned when they started building an
airplane. Remember that these guys usually get very little training in
metal work, fiberglassing, etc. in schools. Most of the A&Ps I know have
less that a couple of dozen clecos and may not even have a hand squeezer in
their tool chests. One Dragonfly that I was just helping with had hardware
in it that surely was pulled out of the A&P's scrounge box. In fact, almost
everything in that airplane looked like it had been scrounged. It had
inferior work, throughout, and was going to cost him more to get it back in
the air than it would cost for one already flying. I was finally able to
convince the owner to sell it and start looking for something else.
As Jerry said, the older kits can be a real buy. If you're in a really big
hurry, try to find a newer kit or buy one already flying. Just be wary of
what you're buying and look it over very carefully, I don't care if it is
flying. The Dragonfly already had about 15 hours on it. There was no way
I'd ride in it the way it was built.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 11
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| Subject: | Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
Take a look at flight tech intercoms http://flighttech.com/. They make a
ANR-line intercom. I have heard one and was amazed. Wiring one for my 6A
now.
Don
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
I'm looking for a stereo panel mount intercom for my 8A. The consensus
seems to be that the PS Engineering intercoms are the best. The are also the
most expensive. I'd like to know what listers using the Flightcom 403S or
403D think of these units. Is anyone using Softcom's ATC-2PS? Any other
units I should look at?
Charlie Kuss
Message 12
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| Subject: | Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I us the AA-83 by NAT
This is the best unit by far IMHO. I have used the PS engineering's units
and was very happy with the PM7000B, but just for an intercom the AA-83 is
by far the best for the Van's aircraft line and the other small noisy ones
like Kitfox.
Sincerely,
Noel Simmons
Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
Phone: 866-859-0390
Fax: 406-538-6574
noel@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:noel@blueskyaviation.net>
www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: RV-List: Stereo intercom opinions wanted
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
I'm looking for a stereo panel mount intercom for my 8A. The consensus
seems to be that the PS Engineering intercoms are the best. The are also the
most expensive. I'd like to know what listers using the Flightcom 403S or
403D think of these units. Is anyone using Softcom's ATC-2PS? Any other
units I should look at?
Charlie Kuss
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel lines 6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 9/30/03 1:01:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
> The 6a is similar. I made several sets of fuel lines, the ones inside
> >fuse from valve to fuse wall, before I got an acceptable setup. If I were
> >to do it again I would use fuel hoses. More money but easier and tougher
I agree with Hal. Had the same experience of fabricating several pieces
before was satisfied. Plus, the lines down near the back of your feet are
susceptible to getting hit by your heels. Flexible lines would take more abuse.
Dale Ensing
Message 14
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| Subject: | Jim Sears offensive comments on RV frame of mind |
09/30/2003 09:00:32 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Jim Sears
Jim: I take offense in your comments. I am an A&P mechanic and take great
pride in my profession and my RV8A project and would welcome any and all to
look at it for discrepancies. If anyone finds something I have not done
correctly or properly I would welcome them to point it out so I can rectify
the problem. I would agree that there are a few out there that should not
be documented as A&P built as the quality is bad but I would also say to
those that care to know I would bet that those projects are being marketed
as A&P built by a non A&P who have had an A&P take a look see or those that
have had an A&P help in riveting etc. Many projects listed as A&P built are
saying that to build value prior to selling an incomplete kit. I would even
go so far as to say of the kits out there flying verses non flying the
ratio of marketed kits advertised as A&P built are higher on the non flying
side of the house. Any takers? Please in the future do not bash the A&P
community untill the facts are clear and certain and please let me know if
you have first hand knowledge of an A&P whose work ethic is not up to snuff
or has done something to sacrifice safety of flight. There are avenues to
get him up to snuff or out of the industry. You see the A&P community is
small indeed and word gets around very quickly if an A&P is not
"professional". Comments like this only give the A&P community a bad name
and the industry in whole does not need another black eye. Most of our
talent is leaving to go to other industries due to low pay to responsiblity
ratios and liability. Thanks for your time.
enough said
Glenn Williams
Chief of Maintenance (A&P)
Bombardier Pre-Owned Aircraft Sales
Richardson, Texas
214-616-7836
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I'll second James suggestion. I have the DRE 244e in my RV and it's
awesome. I get lots of comments on the great sounding intercom, and
stereo sound (I use it with an iPod) with people I fly with.
I later added a new radio and had some tech questions...they were great!
Highly recommended.
http://www.drecomm.com/
Laird 800 hrs with DRE
>--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
>
>DRE 244e.
>
>James
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
>> Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 7:51 AM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV-List: Stereo intercom opinions wanted
>>
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>>
>> Listers,
>> I'm looking for a stereo panel mount intercom for my 8A. The
>> consensus seems to be that the PS Engineering intercoms are the
>> best. The are also the most expensive. I'd like to know what
>> listers using the Flightcom 403S or 403D think of these units. Is
>> anyone using Softcom's ATC-2PS? Any other units I should look at?
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
I guess I missed Geoff's post. Sounds like he wants to buy an RV kit
(incomplete).
If someone will give me his email address I can send him a copy of a file
of previous
post made by listers who wanted to sell their kits.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
do not archive
lm4@juno.com
Another way to look at this Dana is that my old fashioned RV-6 kit took
me 20 months from start to flying including building wooden jigs that
did not warp at all over
that building time. Can you build your quick built that fast ? :-)
Sounds like maybe he wants a bargin and I believe some of the best
bargins out there are some of the old kits that were never finished.
Jerry
do not archvie
Message 17
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| Subject: | Tilt option for slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
I can't find the address of the person making the tilt mod for the sliding
canopy. After flying the first 27 hours off on my RV6 I think I'd like to add
that to mine. Any help out there?
Larry Gagnon
N6LG 27.8 hours of RV grin so far
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I'll second the recommendations for the DRE-244. Installation was a
snap, it comes with a very nice pre assembled wiring harness with every
wire labeled. One nice feature, which I understand is unique to DRE, is
that the earphone jacks automatically compensate for stereo/ mono
headsets. They are stereo jacks, but one can plug a mono headset in
without any adapters, and the intercom automatically senses this and
compensates.
Jeff Point
RV-6 panel, wiring
Milwaukee WI
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Listers,
> I'm looking for a stereo panel mount intercom for my 8A. The consensus seems
to be that the PS Engineering intercoms are the best. The are also the most expensive.
I'd like to know what listers using the Flightcom 403S or 403D think
of these units. Is anyone using Softcom's ATC-2PS? Any other units I should look
at?
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Electric elevator trim |
18, 2001) at 09/30/2003 01:10:26 PM,
Serialize complete at 09/30/2003 01:10:26 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Allan.James@hstna.com
Listers,
I just completed the installation of the elevator electric trim.
After riveting everything together, I found where the platenuts overlapped
the opening in the reinforcement plate prevented me from inserting the
cover plate with the servo. I ended up grinding down five of the plate
nuts where the overhung the opening. I don't recall seeing any mention of
this in the archives or any where else. Has anyone else run into this, or
did I do something wrong?
Thanks,
Allan James
Michigan
RV7A - Emp - Elevators
N322AR
Message 20
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| Subject: | Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Does it come with a 2.25" round face option?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Laird Owens said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
> I'll second James suggestion. I have the DRE 244e in my RV and it's
> awesome. I get lots of comments on the great sounding intercom, and
> stereo sound (I use it with an iPod) with people I fly with.
>
> I later added a new radio and had some tech questions...they were great!
>
> Highly recommended.
> http://www.drecomm.com/
>
> Laird 800 hrs with DRE
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Tilt option for slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
Larry,
Try http://www.aircraftextras.com/
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Larygagnon@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 10:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Tilt option for slider
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
I can't find the address of the person making the tilt mod for the sliding
canopy. After flying the first 27 hours off on my RV6 I think I'd like to add
that to mine. Any help out there?
Larry Gagnon
N6LG 27.8 hours of RV grin so far
Message 22
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| Subject: | RE: Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
The NAT units are simply the best units I've tried. The NAT units are
made for the helo market and I can't imagine a nosier
environment.....well my RV-4 comes close. The NAT allow normal
communications with no background noise, no clipping and no cut-out.
When I first used it with ATC, I thought the controller was chatting
with me in my office-the voice was so clear and crisp and not loud.
Also, female voices don't get lost,clipped or drown out. My wife's 2000+
hrtz. voice come in very crisp & good with out shouting.....maybe thats
bad now that she can talk to me with apparent ease while
flying......hmmmm
Got my NAT from a Hughes 300 in a salvage yard for 1/3 to 1/4 the price
of new, no tax or shipping. I have somewhere near 90 bucks in the unit.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
<noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I us the AA-83 by NAT
This is the best unit by far IMHO. I have used the PS
engineering's units
and was very happy with the PM7000B, but just for an
intercom the AA-83 is
small noisy ones
like Kitfox.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Tilt option for slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
http://www.aircraftextras.com/
Larygagnon@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
>
>I can't find the address of the person making the tilt mod for the sliding
>canopy. After flying the first 27 hours off on my RV6 I think I'd like to add
>that to mine. Any help out there?
>
>Larry Gagnon
>N6LG 27.8 hours of RV grin so far
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
I would make sure I had cleared that with the DAR or inspector who's
going to give you the cert, BEFORE purchasing that kit.
Finn
Nick N wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
>
>
>*** Snip ***
>
>Note that you'll have to purchase a kit that is less than
>50% complete in order to qualify for the repairman certificate.
>
>*** End Snip ***
>
>Negative ghostrider.
>
>Check the archives and the EAA website. The 51% rule should be no
>problem in getting the repairman's cert on a previously started kit.
>
>Just a quick search and I found this one, there are several hundred
>other examples.
>http://www.checkoway.com/url/?s=a39d360
>
>Best of luck,
>
>Nick
>
>
>==
>==
>http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>==
>==
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Tilt option for slider |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
This is already in the archives, so adding do not archive:
www.aircraftextras.com. I'm thinking of adding the kit too, its a pain
getting the groceries in and out.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying, home.rmci.net/racker Skypark home for sale)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
>
> I can't find the address of the person making the tilt mod for the
> sliding canopy. After flying the first 27 hours off on my RV6 I think
> I'd like to add that to mine. Any help out there?
>
> Larry Gagnon
> N6LG 27.8 hours of RV grin so far
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
Saw your Email, would appreciate any refs. Geoff
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
No mention of it on their website, and I don't recall seeing one at the
booth at Oshkosh. The faceplate is 2 1/2 wide. Looking at mine, it
looks like it could be made to fit, with some minor trimming of the
faceplate. Or call the company, they are great to deal with.
http://www.drecomm.com/
Jeff Point
Larry Bowen wrote:
>Does it come with a 2.25" round face option?
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
Good advice . Perhaps I should just get a new kit from Vans? Geoff
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
Thanks for the words of wisdom. Geoff
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
For those who know more about aerodynamics than I, and I did study it in
college, I have a question. Is the G loading graph linear? Can you
extrapolate as indicated in the Post below? Can you interpolate a G load
at a given weight below gross weight. One aerodynamic engineer has told me no!
I don't think we can assume that the wing is the "only" limiting structural
item (see Post below). Other parts of the aircraft are critical to flight,
and structural departure of horizontal stab, failure of the motor
mount/firewall would cause serious in flight problems.
In my life every time I have said "never" God makes me do what I said I
never would do. In my opinion if you are loaded above 1650 lbs, sooner or
later you will land over gross (See Post below). Critical emergencies
demand a landing immediately, even non critical reasons might demand an
immediate landing.
Personally, I see nothing wrong with an 1800 lbs gross weight, but, when I
die, and my wife sells the plane (an RV is a valuable asset that should
not be not just be junked when the builder dies) I want to insure that the
next pilot understands the limitations. In my POH, the max gross weight is
1600 lbs. If the next owner wants to fly at 1800 lbs. with an extreme
rearward CG, then that is his problem, if he crashes, then he can not blame
the manufacturer. I try to keep in mind that I will not be the only person
to fly or own my RV!
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
>Utility category implies 4.4g's. This would not be wise to
>intentionally do at 1800 lbs. I set my gross at 1800, but in my weight
>and balance sheet I extrapolated the maximum g loading for 1800 lbs to
>be about 3.6. This was based upon 6 g's at 1375 and 4.4 at 1650. This,
>of course, assumes that the wing is the limiting structural item.
>
>I also never plan to land above 1650 lbs.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
The DAR has nothing to do with issuing the Repairman Certificate.
Dave
do not archive
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>I would make sure I had cleared that with the DAR or inspector who's
>going to give you the cert, BEFORE purchasing that kit.
>
>Finn
>
>Nick N wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
>>
>>
>>*** Snip ***
>>
>>Note that you'll have to purchase a kit that is less than
>>50% complete in order to qualify for the repairman certificate.
>>
>>*** End Snip ***
>>
>>Negative ghostrider.
>>
>>Check the archives and the EAA website. The 51% rule should be no
>>problem in getting the repairman's cert on a previously started kit.
>>
>>Just a quick search and I found this one, there are several hundred
>>other examples.
>>http://www.checkoway.com/url/?s=a39d360
>>
>>Best of luck,
>>
>>Nick
>>
>>
>>==
>>==
>>http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>>==
>>==
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel lines 6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Before arbitrarily replacing metal lines with hoses remember that
besides being a lot more expensive, they are also life limited and WILL
have to be replaced someday while metal lines usually last the life of
the airplane. Hoses are also more susceptible to leaks with age and are
usually used only where there is likely to be flexing that would damage
a solid line. I know using a hose would be easier but who said this was
going to be easy? 8>)
Dave EAA Technical Counselor
DWENSING@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 9/30/03 1:01:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
>
>
>
>
>>The 6a is similar. I made several sets of fuel lines, the ones inside
>>
>>
>>>fuse from valve to fuse wall, before I got an acceptable setup. If I were
>>>to do it again I would use fuel hoses. More money but easier and tougher
>>>
>>>
>
>I agree with Hal. Had the same experience of fabricating several pieces
>before was satisfied. Plus, the lines down near the back of your feet are
>susceptible to getting hit by your heels. Flexible lines would take more abuse.
>Dale Ensing
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Bob wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
> For those who know more about aerodynamics than I, and I did study it in
> college, I have a question. Is the G loading graph linear? Can you
> extrapolate as indicated in the Post below? Can you interpolate a G load
> at a given weight below gross weight. One aerodynamic engineer has told me no!
Make that *two* aeronautical engineers.
> I don't think we can assume that the wing is the "only" limiting structural
> item (see Post below). Other parts of the aircraft are critical to flight,
> and structural departure of horizontal stab, failure of the motor
> mount/firewall would cause serious in flight problems.
Very true. This is much easier to see if you look at the problem from
the other side, that of an airplane that is certified for Normal
Category at a given weight being flown for Aerobatics:
It's tempting to say that "if it's safe at 3.8G at gross, then certainly
with one person aboard and half fuel, it should be safe for light
aerobatics." This is, of course, wrong. And it's easy to see using
your engine mount example above... In a 3.8G pull-up, your engine weighs
a certain amount, and your engine mount can support that weight. If you
pull harder, regardless of the loading elsewhere in the plane, you
increase the load on your engine mount beyond that design limit.
That's just one simple, and (hopefully) very clear example. Taken from
the RV perspective, flying an aerobatic plane at a lower G, but higher
Gross Weight, you can run into any number of limitations on the
airframe, from the question of "where do you put that extra weight?" to
"was the area you're going to put it in designed to take it?"
Without a full, engineering analysis of the airframe it's quite
difficult to say where the limiting factor would be. It *may* turn out,
as people hope, to be the wing, in which case flying Utility at 1800#
could be completely safe. But you won't *know* without that analysis,
and I suspect the only way to find out is to pay someone to do it.
-Rob Prior
B.A.Sc. Mech Eng. 1994
Industrial Aerodynamics and Aircraft option
(specializing in light aircraft structures and aerodynamics)
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
Someone had mentioned that they develpoed an efficient dimpler-- can they
contact me? ( I think I'm learning how to use this site.) Geoff
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Jim Sears offensive comments on RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
Apparantly, Mr. Williams has led a sheltered life as a A&P and doesn't
realize that not all A&Ps are made the same way. I've seen good A&Ps that
I'd put up against any other A&P. However, I've also seen A&Ps so bad that
I wonder how they still hold their certificates. I don't have to go very
far from home to find both kinds, either. Alas, I don't see the other A&Ps
working to get rid of the bad ones, as Mr. Williams spoke of. They continue
to do sloppy jobs and keep moving around to keep ahead of their bad
reputations.
Because I don't know him, I have no idea which category Mr. Williams falls
into without seeing his work. He may be one of the good ones; but; I'd
still not buy a kit, or a flying airplane, from him without giving it a real
looking over. Yep, I've seen some A&P owned certified aircraft that I
wouldn't ride in either. With that, Mr. Williams, I'd not be so defensive.
I'm just telling some of our folks that one can not depend on everyone being
honest or really good at what they do. My experience has shown that many
are not. With that, I do not apologize for stating the facts.
The Dragonfly I spoke of in an earlier note was built by an A&P with an IA.
Had Mr. Williams read the note carefully, he'd have noted that I did not
bash all A&P built aircraft. It's just that ones I saw were not very well
done to the point that I would not ride in them without modifications. Even
the Dragonfly could be made into a nice airplane, given enough time and
money to do so. The owner did not have the time and did not want to spend
that much money to do so.
Do not depend on a A&P built claim to give you a warm fuzzy that the kit in
question is a good one. Look at it carefully before you buy it, no matter
who is supposed to have built it and no matter what credentials they may
hold. Talk is cheap. Buying a kit is not.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>Another way to look at this Dana is that my old fashioned RV-6 kit took
>me 20 months from start to
>flying including building wooden jigs that did not warp at all over that
>building time. Can you build your
>quick built that fast ? :-)
Why, just for the sake of discussion, mine is a slow build and if I had the
tools, a pot full of money and 20 hours a week I truly think I could build a
slow one in year...........so there!!!:-)
Sounds like maybe he wants a bargin and I
>believe some of the best bargins out
>there are some of the old kits that were never finished.
>
Point well taken.
BTW, I did not intend to discredit, disservice, distract or a handful of
dis's anyone who has, had had or will have a non pre punched kit, A&P, PM,
AM, EST, MST, 007 or any conbination of letter, numbers or even smoke
signals. I think I just covered the gambit................hum, anybody in
California need another politicial:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | RV-4 Extended Length IP question |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I am considering re-doing my RV-4 panel and lowering the bottom edge of it by
about 1.5 inches. I have mocked up a panel in my plane and I can get in and
out OK and I don't hit my knees on it, but I am worried about taking 1.5" off
of my stick. I am 5'10" and I have by rudder pedals as far forward as I can.
Has anyone out there done this, and if so how is the stick at 1.5" lower?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
N223RV Flying, approaching 100 hours
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel lines 6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Having just finished this process in a 9A I can easily understand what you
were dealing with and how I solved the problem. First of all, on an "A"
version of anything Van's sells the plans are wrong. What they show on the
fuel line drawings is based upon the tail dragger configuration. This
impacts most critically which grommet hole you choose to run the 3/8th (fat)
lines. Don't do as the plans show because it will have the line running
smack into the gear main weldment, use the upper grommet holes instead for
this run.
The vent lines aren't much trouble as they are more flexible so I won't
bother with them. But the way I finally got it to work, after many failed
tries and discarded tubing, was to get an approximate idea of how much pipe
I would need for the run from the valve to outside, with a little excess.
Flare only the valve end. Don't attach it. Bend the valve end into a close
coupled shallow S curve that will allow it to connect to the valve and still
reach the grommet in the rib without strain. Thread the straight part
through the grommets and sort of milk it out into the cabin in front of the
gear weldment. Once you have all your excess out there then work the valve
end into position and fasten it to hold it in position. Now the fun part.
You will have to make a bend (all done by hand around the main gear weldment
by estimating where it will need to be with the pipe in final position.
Once you have this done then you insert the straight portion through the web
and work it out through the grommet in the cabin side. The problem is that
as you work with this tubing it work hardens fast and eventually becomes
almost impossible to deal with.
By the time I was through with this process I was regretting the decision
not to build a tail dragger, regardless of the insurance cost!
If there are some who would like pictures of the finished result let me
know. There are lots of trail dragger examples and not many trigears, to my
knowledge.
Regards,
Mike Holland
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel lines 6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Before arbitrarily replacing metal lines with hoses remember that
> besides being a lot more expensive, they are also life limited and WILL
> have to be replaced someday while metal lines usually last the life of
> the airplane. Hoses are also more susceptible to leaks with age and are
> usually used only where there is likely to be flexing that would damage
> a solid line. I know using a hose would be easier but who said this was
> going to be easy? 8>)
>
> Dave EAA Technical Counselor
>
> DWENSING@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >
> >In a message dated 9/30/03 1:01:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>The 6a is similar. I made several sets of fuel lines, the ones inside
> >>
> >>
> >>>fuse from valve to fuse wall, before I got an acceptable setup. If I
were
> >>>to do it again I would use fuel hoses. More money but easier and
tougher
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >I agree with Hal. Had the same experience of fabricating several pieces
> >before was satisfied. Plus, the lines down near the back of your feet are
> >susceptible to getting hit by your heels. Flexible lines would take more
abuse.
> >Dale Ensing
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
N223RV@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
>
>I am considering re-doing my RV-4 panel and lowering the bottom edge of it by
>about 1.5 inches. I have mocked up a panel in my plane and I can get in and
>out OK and I don't hit my knees on it, but I am worried about taking 1.5" off
>of my stick. I am 5'10" and I have by rudder pedals as far forward as I can.
>
>Has anyone out there done this, and if so how is the stick at 1.5" lower?
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks
>-Mike Kraus
>N223RV Flying, approaching 100 hours
>
I'm now flying my 2nd purchased -4, & the only time I move my hand to
the top of the stick is when I want a max rate roll or to get my thumb
on the PPT.
Why not wrap a bungie at the cut point & fly it a few days or weeks with
your hand below the cut point & see how you like it?
Charlie
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
A few more comments, see below:
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 375 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> > I don't think we can assume that the wing is the "only" limiting
> > structural
> > item (see Post below). Other parts of the aircraft are
> critical to flight,
> > and structural departure of horizontal stab, failure of the motor
> > mount/firewall would cause serious in flight problems.
>
> Very true. This is much easier to see if you look at the
> problem from
> the other side, that of an airplane that is certified for Normal
> Category at a given weight being flown for Aerobatics:
>
> It's tempting to say that "if it's safe at 3.8G at gross,
> then certainly
> with one person aboard and half fuel, it should be safe for light
> aerobatics." This is, of course, wrong. And it's easy to see using
> your engine mount example above... In a 3.8G pull-up, your
> engine weighs
> a certain amount, and your engine mount can support that
> weight. If you
> pull harder, regardless of the loading elsewhere in the plane, you
> increase the load on your engine mount beyond that design limit.
Yes, but we are not talking about that. We are talking about a specific
aircraft which, at certain weights, is allowed to go to +6 gs. Your
example above would apply if someone were saying "ok, then at 1300 lbs I
can go to 7 g's". No one is suggesting that.
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
I was quite sure my post from yesterday would stir things up, and it
has. See my comments below.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 375 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
> I don't think we can assume that the wing is the "only"
> limiting structural
> item (see Post below). Other parts of the aircraft are
> critical to flight,
> and structural departure of horizontal stab, failure of the motor
> mount/firewall would cause serious in flight problems.
The motor mount's flight stresses are not affected by the gross weight,
only the g loads on the airplane. The loads on the horizontal
stabilizer are related to g loads, but also to cg location. The motor
mount in a non RV8 taildragger would, of course, see more landing and
ground ops loads.
>
> In my life every time I have said "never" God makes me do
> what I said I
> never would do. In my opinion if you are loaded above 1650
> lbs, sooner or
> later you will land over gross (See Post below). Critical
> emergencies
> demand a landing immediately, even non critical reasons might
> demand an
> immediate landing.
I have landed above 1650, and of course the gear survived. Would they
survive a really botched landing as well at 1800 as at 1650? Obviously
not. I have contemplated the fact that I might have to land at 1800,
and I take that into consideration when weighing the risks of flight.
Rough grass strips are much more likely to damage landing gears at 1650
than paved runways at 1800. Indeed, many trikes have bent nose gears
and bent airplanes on rough strips. Does this mean that the POH should
prohibit grass runways? I consider rough strips much more hazardous at
1400 lbs. than paved at 1800.
>
> Personally, I see nothing wrong with an 1800 lbs gross
> weight, but, when I
> die, and my wife sells the plane (an RV is a valuable asset
> that should
> not be not just be junked when the builder dies) I want to
> insure that the
> next pilot understands the limitations. In my POH, the max
> gross weight is
> 1600 lbs. If the next owner wants to fly at 1800 lbs. with
> an extreme
> rearward CG,
Can't be done in my plane, unless one puts more than the 100 lbs
limitation in the baggage area.
> then that is his problem, if he crashes, then he
> can not blame
> the manufacturer. I try to keep in mind that I will not be
> the only person
> to fly or own my RV!
Good point.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
> >Utility category implies 4.4g's. This would not be wise to
> >intentionally do at 1800 lbs. I set my gross at 1800, but
> in my weight
> >and balance sheet I extrapolated the maximum g loading for
> 1800 lbs to
> >be about 3.6. This was based upon 6 g's at 1375 and 4.4 at 1650.
> >This, of course, assumes that the wing is the limiting
> structural item.
> >
> >I also never plan to land above 1650 lbs.
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Jim Sears offensive comments on RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
My experience with A&Ps:
One worked on my Pacer and took the lower boot cowl loose and bent it
back around itself so bad that
it kinked it and eventually cracked. another A&P on the same airplane
decided he needed to tighten a bolt on the engine
and stripped it out then charged me to put in a helicoil. Another A&P
worked on a Stinson that belonged to a friend
and decided he needed to do a test flight. Well he forgot to latch the
cowling before take off and ruined the cowling.
Glenn I am sure Jim as myself do not think all A&Ps are bad but to be
truthful my experience has been on the negative side.
All the years I have been involved with homebuilt aircraft (over 30
years) it has always been know among homebuilders that
the term A&P built means nothing when it comes to quality or workmanship.
Jerry
do not archive
Jim Sears wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
>
>Apparantly, Mr. Williams has led a sheltered life as a A&P and doesn't
>realize that not all A&Ps are made the same way. I've seen good A&Ps that
>I'd put up against any other A&P. However, I've also seen A&Ps so bad that
>I wonder how they still hold their certificates. I don't have to go very
>far from home to find both kinds, either. Alas, I don't see the other A&Ps
>working to get rid of the bad ones, as Mr. Williams spoke of. They continue
>to do sloppy jobs and keep moving around to keep ahead of their bad
>reputations.
>
>Because I don't know him, I have no idea which category Mr. Williams falls
>into without seeing his work. He may be one of the good ones; but; I'd
>still not buy a kit, or a flying airplane, from him without giving it a real
>looking over. Yep, I've seen some A&P owned certified aircraft that I
>wouldn't ride in either. With that, Mr. Williams, I'd not be so defensive.
>I'm just telling some of our folks that one can not depend on everyone being
>honest or really good at what they do. My experience has shown that many
>are not. With that, I do not apologize for stating the facts.
>
>The Dragonfly I spoke of in an earlier note was built by an A&P with an IA.
>Had Mr. Williams read the note carefully, he'd have noted that I did not
>bash all A&P built aircraft. It's just that ones I saw were not very well
>done to the point that I would not ride in them without modifications. Even
>the Dragonfly could be made into a nice airplane, given enough time and
>money to do so. The owner did not have the time and did not want to spend
>that much money to do so.
>
>Do not depend on a A&P built claim to give you a warm fuzzy that the kit in
>question is a good one. Look at it carefully before you buy it, no matter
>who is supposed to have built it and no matter what credentials they may
>hold. Talk is cheap. Buying a kit is not.
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS
>EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Mike, Take some tape and cover the top 1-1/2" of your stick and go fly
your airplane, keeping your hand below the tape to see how the stick
forces will be with the reduced stick length.
Jim Streit
90073
fuse
N223RV@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
>
>I am considering re-doing my RV-4 panel and lowering the bottom edge of it by
>about 1.5 inches. I have mocked up a panel in my plane and I can get in and
>out OK and I don't hit my knees on it, but I am worried about taking 1.5" off
>of my stick. I am 5'10" and I have by rudder pedals as far forward as I can.
>
>Has anyone out there done this, and if so how is the stick at 1.5" lower?
>Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>Thanks
>-Mike Kraus
>N223RV Flying, approaching 100 hours
>
>
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | RV-4 Extended Length IP question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Mike
I have an RV4 that I built with an extension to the panel of about 2 inches.
I did not remake the whole panel, I just bent up a 2" wide panel with
flanges on both sides and riveted it to the bottom of the stock panel. I cut
the stick as necessary to fit underneath, and have had no problems. I am
5"9" and have no trouble getting in and out. Some of my taller friends do
hit their knees on the bottom of the panel though. I think I have some
photo's around if you are interested. Email off list if you would like to
see them.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I am considering re-doing my RV-4 panel and lowering the bottom edge of it
by
about 1.5 inches. I have mocked up a panel in my plane and I can get in and
out OK and I don't hit my knees on it, but I am worried about taking 1.5"
off
of my stick. I am 5'10" and I have by rudder pedals as far forward as I
can.
Has anyone out there done this, and if so how is the stick at 1.5" lower?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
N223RV Flying, approaching 100 hours
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Dana Overall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Another way to look at this Dana is that my old fashioned RV-6 kit took
>>me 20 months from start to
>>flying including building wooden jigs that did not warp at all over that
>>building time. Can you build your
>>quick built that fast ? :-)
>>
>>
>
>Why, just for the sake of discussion, mine is a slow build and if I had the
>tools, a pot full of money and 20 hours a week I truly think I could build a
>slow one in year...........so there!!!:-)
>
>
Well now Dana, if that's the way you want to play, :-) I bought my RV-6
before it was completely designed
and 1/2 of that time was waiting for parts....... so there!!!!!!!. :-) I
had 100 hours on my airplane before I
got the official drawings for the finish kit.
Now having said all of this I am on the process of putting an RV-9 stab
and rudder on my RV-6 and I have
to tell you the quality of the new kit is outstanding, at least the
vertical stab and rudder are. I picked up the parts at
Van's this last Friday and I already have the vertical stab mounted to
the airframe and well have the rudder
completed tomorrow and plan to fly this weekend. On the vertical stab
there was not one hole that did not line up
and the rudder is done just as well. I would have it completed tonight
if I were not waiting for the glue to dry
on the trailing edge of the two piece rudder skin. I envy you guys
building the new kits.
Jerry
>
>Sounds like maybe he wants a bargain and I
>
>
>>believe some of the best bargains out
>>there are some of the old kits that were never finished.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Point well taken.
>
>BTW, I did not intend to discredit, disservice, distract or a handful of
>dis's anyone who has, had had or will have a non pre punched kit, A&P, PM,
>AM, EST, MST, 007 or any conbination of letter, numbers or even smoke
>signals. I think I just covered the gambit................hum, anybody in
>California need another politicial:-)
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
>
Jerry
do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Finn, I have to ask why it needs to be cleared with a DAR or inspector
other than the obvious
of having them check the quality of what you are buying.
Jerry
do not archive
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>I would make sure I had cleared that with the DAR or inspector who's
>going to give you the cert, BEFORE purchasing that kit.
>
>Finn
>
>Nick N wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
>>
>>
>>*** Snip ***
>>
>>Note that you'll have to purchase a kit that is less than
>>50% complete in order to qualify for the repairman certificate.
>>
>>*** End Snip ***
>>
>>Negative ghostrider.
>>
>>Check the archives and the EAA website. The 51% rule should be no
>>problem in getting the repairman's cert on a previously started kit.
>>
>>Just a quick search and I found this one, there are several hundred
>>other examples.
>>http://www.checkoway.com/url/?s=a39d360
>>
>>Best of luck,
>>
>>Nick
>>
>>
>>==
>>==
>>http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>>==
>>==
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
My old RV-4 had a longer stick than my new one and I liked the longer stick
better. Not a big deal at all, but when you lower the panel you reduce the
market that you can sell your airplane to when you are thru with it, cause
us tall guys won't be buying it.
I would try to figure a different solution.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Streit" <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Extended Length IP question
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
>
> Mike, Take some tape and cover the top 1-1/2" of your stick and go fly
> your airplane, keeping your hand below the tape to see how the stick
> forces will be with the reduced stick length.
>
> Jim Streit
> 90073
> fuse
>
> N223RV@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
> >
> >
> >I am considering re-doing my RV-4 panel and lowering the bottom edge of
it by
> >about 1.5 inches. I have mocked up a panel in my plane and I can get in
and
> >out OK and I don't hit my knees on it, but I am worried about taking 1.5"
off
> >of my stick. I am 5'10" and I have by rudder pedals as far forward as I
can.
> >
> >Has anyone out there done this, and if so how is the stick at 1.5" lower?
> >Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >Thanks
> >-Mike Kraus
> >N223RV Flying, approaching 100 hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Starn" <jhstarn@earthlink.net>
Ya'll could just make the panel wider so it'll hold more stuff, and then put
the wider panel in the body of a HRII Rocket. OK....OK....it's just one of
many solutions. 8*) KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 Extended Length IP question
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>> In a 3.8G pull-up, your engine weighs a certain amount, and your engine
>> mount can support that weight. If you pull harder, regardless of the
>> loading elsewhere in the plane, you increase the load on your engine
>> mount beyond that design limit.
>
> Yes, but we are not talking about that. We are talking about a specific
> aircraft which, at certain weights, is allowed to go to +6 gs. Your
> example above would apply if someone were saying "ok, then at 1300 lbs I
> can go to 7 g's". No one is suggesting that.
Yes, and in the very next paragraph of my reply, I agreed that was the case.
Perhaps it was a bad example, but it usually gets people thinking the
right way. The engine on the engine mount is an example of a dead-weight
load, that doesn't change with gross weight. You could load the plane to
2500 lb, and in a 6G pullup the engine mount will still see the same load
(briefly at least, until the wing cracks... 8-).
Perhaps a better example would be to ask, where will the extra 200lb of dead
weight go in *your* aircraft?
If you hang it on the front of the plane, in terms of constant speed prop,
fuel-injected IO-360, and battery, then you are, indeed, increasing the
loading on the engine mount/firewall. If you put it in your seats (or the
baggage compartment), then you're increasing the vertical load on your
seats, which are (in most airplanes) designed for a certain vertical load
for safety in the event of a belly landing. And finally, if you go a couple
more bays out on the wing with your fuel tanks as many do, you're increasing
the shear load on the wing and changing the loading conditions on the wing.
The Aerodynamics aren't in question. I'm 100% certain that you could fly
any aircraft ever made well over it's gross weight if you had a large enough
engine on it and stayed near 1-2G. The question is how many times you can
do it before something fails.
-Rob
(and I think i'll put
DO NOT ARCHIVE
on this one before this gets out of hand... 8-)
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel lines 6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Dave,
... I think that the preferred Teflon hoses are not life
limited, and are easy to obtain from race car supply places ready made and
pressure tested....
http://www.anplumbing.com/shop/
gil in Tucson
At 01:23 PM 9/30/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
>Before arbitrarily replacing metal lines with hoses remember that
>besides being a lot more expensive, they are also life limited and WILL
>have to be replaced someday while metal lines usually last the life of
>the airplane. Hoses are also more susceptible to leaks with age and are
>usually used only where there is likely to be flexing that would damage
>a solid line. I know using a hose would be easier but who said this was
>going to be easy? 8>)
>
>Dave EAA Technical Counselor
>
>DWENSING@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >
> >In a message dated 9/30/03 1:01:07 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> >kempthornes@earthlink.net writes:
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>The 6a is similar. I made several sets of fuel lines, the ones inside
> >>
> >>
> >>>fuse from valve to fuse wall, before I got an acceptable setup. If I
> were
> >>>to do it again I would use fuel hoses. More money but easier and tougher
> >>>
> >>>
> >
> >I agree with Hal. Had the same experience of fabricating several pieces
> >before was satisfied. Plus, the lines down near the back of your feet are
> >susceptible to getting hit by your heels. Flexible lines would take more
> abuse.
> >Dale Ensing
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Electric elevator trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Allan,
My platenuts protruded also, it's not a big deal. I was able to grind one or
two back flush with the skin. I believe anyone doing this job on any current
kit will run into the same issue. E-mail me offline if anyone would care for
a picture. This doesn't look bad, you only need to grind one or two to allow
for the servo to slide into the elevator.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Allan.James@hstna.com>
Subject: RV-List: Electric elevator trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: Allan.James@hstna.com
>
> Listers,
>
> I just completed the installation of the elevator electric trim.
> After riveting everything together, I found where the platenuts overlapped
>
> the opening in the reinforcement plate prevented me from inserting the
> cover plate with the servo. I ended up grinding down five of the plate
> nuts where the overhung the opening. I don't recall seeing any mention of
>
> this in the archives or any where else. Has anyone else run into this, or
>
> did I do something wrong?
>
> Thanks,
> Allan James
> Michigan
> RV7A - Emp - Elevators
> N322AR
>
>
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