Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:26 AM - Re: RV-4 stick length (Jim Nolan)
2. 05:53 AM - Paint Transition Line (Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com)
3. 07:04 AM - Re: Paint Transition Line (ray sheffield)
4. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Finn Lassen)
5. 07:44 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Jerry Springer)
6. 08:16 AM - velcro peeling off (Emmanuelle Richard)
7. 09:50 AM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (Bob)
8. 09:58 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (van Bladeren, Ron)
9. 10:06 AM - new stuff - bargain stuff - free stuff (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
10. 10:11 AM - Van's on Weight and Balance (Paul Besing)
11. 10:24 AM - Re: Re: Kit Caution (Eustace Bowhay)
12. 10:41 AM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (Rob Prior)
13. 10:50 AM - baffling question? mounting oil cooler (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
14. 11:05 AM - Gross weight (Eustace Bowhay)
15. 01:01 PM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (kempthornes)
16. 01:06 PM - NEED PROP (Bill VonDane)
17. 02:12 PM - Wing Dip (Joe Wiza)
18. 02:33 PM - Re: Wing Dip (SportAV8R@aol.com)
19. 02:55 PM - Re: Wing Dip (Scott Bilinski)
20. 03:11 PM - Re: Re: RV-4 stick length (Jim Jewell)
21. 03:35 PM - Re: Wing Dip (Dan Checkoway)
22. 04:16 PM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Finn Lassen)
23. 05:48 PM - Re: Re: W&B on a -6A (Kyle Boatright)
24. 07:12 PM - Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question (N223RV@aol.com)
25. 07:18 PM - Canopy Frame Fit (N223RV@aol.com)
26. 07:21 PM - RV-7 Intercom Jack Location (N223RV@aol.com)
27. 07:36 PM - oil door (bert murillo)
28. 07:41 PM - fabric type seats (bert murillo)
29. 07:41 PM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Cy Galley)
30. 07:45 PM - Question on P>C> (bert murillo)
31. 08:09 PM - Re: fabric type seats (Gil Alexander)
32. 08:11 PM - Re: Question on P>C> (Jim Jewell)
33. 08:12 PM - Catto Props (Rich Crosley)
34. 08:24 PM - Re: Wing Dip (WFACT01@aol.com)
35. 08:24 PM - FIBERGLASS NOW OR LATER ()
36. 08:24 PM - Fiberglass Now or Later ()
37. 08:25 PM - Rv list (smoothweasel@juno.com)
38. 08:38 PM - Re: Canopy Frame Fit (Kyle Boatright)
39. 08:45 PM - Re: Catto Props (Pete Waters)
40. 10:36 PM - Re: FIBERGLASS NOW OR LATER (Karie Daniel)
41. 10:52 PM - Skyforce Moving Map on ebay (Donald Mei)
42. 11:02 PM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
43. 11:13 PM - Re: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location (Jim Oke)
44. 11:29 PM - Rib to Spar Rivets--Thank You (Warren W Hurd)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 stick length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan@earthlink.net>
Mike,
I had to lower mine 1" when I installed all my equipment for IFR. The panel
being lower didn't bother me, but the stick being lower did. You'll get used
to it, but it won't be the same as it was before. I installed the Infinity grip
so I wouldn't have to lower the panel more than an inch. If you can achieve
what you want without shortening the stick, I'd do it. I flew mine 1050 hours
before I shortened the stick, so I was used to the lighter feel of the controls.
But like I said, you'll get used to it.
Jim Nolan
N444JN
used to it
Message 2
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| Subject: | Paint Transition Line |
10/01/2003 08:45:37 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
Listers,
I was considering using a combination of bare metal and painted trim
highlights. The question that comes to mind is that the bare metal will
require frequent polishing. What happens to the edge of the paint trim
next to the bare metal over time? Does it slowly get worn down due
occasional forays of the buffer pad over the line?
Don Alexander
RV-8
Wings
Do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Paint Transition Line |
--> RV-List message posted by: "ray sheffield" <rv8a@csranet.com>
Don,
Use fine line plastic masking tape.
Don't buff or wash with water.
Use a hand polish to clean and polish.
ray
----- Original Message -----
From: <Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com>
Subject: RV-List: Paint Transition Line
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don.Alexander@AstenJohnson.com
>
>
> Listers,
> I was considering using a combination of bare metal and painted trim
> highlights. The question that comes to mind is that the bare metal will
> require frequent polishing. What happens to the edge of the paint trim
> next to the bare metal over time? Does it slowly get worn down due
> occasional forays of the buffer pad over the line?
> Don Alexander
> RV-8
> Wings
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Let's say you go out and buy a kit that's 90% complete. How are you
going to convince the DAR or FAA inspector that you qualify for the
repairman's certificate? In other words, that you have the neccessary
skills to determine if the aircraft is in airworthy condition when doing
the annual conditional inspection?
I'm sure that some DARs or FAA inspectors would refuse to issue (or
recommend, if the DARs don't issue) you the repairman cert, if all you
did, for example, was to fit the canopy and cowling to finish the airplane.
Finn
Jerry Springer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>Finn, I have to ask why it needs to be cleared with a DAR or inspector
>other than the obvious
>of having them check the quality of what you are buying.
>
>Jerry
>do not archive
>
>Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>
>>I would make sure I had cleared that with the DAR or inspector who's
>>going to give you the cert, BEFORE purchasing that kit.
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>Nick N wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>*** Snip ***
>>>
>>>Note that you'll have to purchase a kit that is less than
>>>50% complete in order to qualify for the repairman certificate.
>>>
>>>*** End Snip ***
>>>
>>>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Finn, I would hope that if you are the one the finishes the airplane you
would learn all there is to
know about the airplane you are building. Once again the repairman's
certificate has nothing
to do with the 51% rule. I could buy a half finished airplane with 5
other guys and never do
any work on it and still receive the repairman's certificate.
Jerry
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>Let's say you go out and buy a kit that's 90% complete. How are you
>going to convince the DAR or FAA inspector that you qualify for the
>repairman's certificate? In other words, that you have the neccessary
>skills to determine if the aircraft is in airworthy condition when doing
>the annual conditional inspection?
>I'm sure that some DARs or FAA inspectors would refuse to issue (or
>recommend, if the DARs don't issue) you the repairman cert, if all you
>did, for example, was to fit the canopy and cowling to finish the airplane.
>
>Finn
>
>Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Finn, I have to ask why it needs to be cleared with a DAR or inspector
>>other than the obvious
>>of having them check the quality of what you are buying.
>>
>>Jerry
>>do not archive
>>
>>Finn Lassen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>>
>>>I would make sure I had cleared that with the DAR or inspector who's
>>>going to give you the cert, BEFORE purchasing that kit.
>>>
>>>Finn
>>>
>>>Nick N wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>*** Snip ***
>>>>
>>>>Note that you'll have to purchase a kit that is less than
>>>>50% complete in order to qualify for the repairman certificate.
>>>>
>>>>*** End Snip ***
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | velcro peeling off |
--> RV-List message posted by: Emmanuelle Richard <frenchflyer21@yahoo.com>
If you use the "sticky back" velcro, it tends to lift up, especially when it's
hot (the heat softens the adhesive). If you use standard velcro and bond it in
place with glue, you won't have this problem. On the cushions, you bond and
stitch as well. Velcro sell a glue or you can use yellow glue.
---------------------------------
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
At 07:36 PM 9/30/03 -0500, you wrote:
>Yes, but we are not talking about that. We are talking about a specific
>aircraft which, at certain weights, is allowed to go to +6 gs. Your
>example above would apply if someone were saying "ok, then at 1300 lbs I
>can go to 7 g's". No one is suggesting that.
I was asking that specific question. If we can say it is ok to have an
1800 lbs gross weight at 4.4 Gs, then can we have 6.6 Gs at 1250 lbs?
If the G loading graph is linear (I don't know if it is) then we should be
able to pull more Gs at less than aerobatic weight.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
And that Jerry is precisely the difference between an A&P and a craftsman.
The Repairman must demonstrate the knowledge to properly maintain a
particular aircraft and the A&P must demonstrate the knowledge to properly
maintain all aircraft. That knowledge is generally found in maintenance
manuals or construction documents for the aircraft in questions. Knowing
where to look and when to look is the difference between a novice and a
professional.
Neither the Repairman or the A&P are required to demonstrate any particular
level of "craftsmanship". They are however required to demonstrate the
ability to determine if a task or procedure had been completed properly and
therefore "safe for flight". A Repairman or A&P may not be able to set the
best looking rivet but they would be expected to know if the set rivet is
acceptable or must be removed and redone.
It is because of this demonstrated knowledge that if I was to buy a partial
kit, I would lean toward the A&P built product. Subtle things like making
sure each rivet has the "dimple" in the center, rivet hole edge distance,
traceability of AN hardware, proper hose construction and installation,
proper wire and breaker/fuse size, when to use a friction lock nut and when
to use a castle & cotter pin nut, proper nut torques, etc. These things may
be innocently overlooked by the novice builder or discounted as not
important. We've all seen these issues questioned by builders in these
postings before and rightly so, because after all, Experimental Homebuilt is
intended to be a learning experience. However, the A&P knows these
significances and discounting or moving forward without proper knowledge is
not acceptable and in fact, may be placing them in criminal if not civil
liability.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: Jerry Springer [mailto:jsflyrv@earthlink.net]
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV frame of mind
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Finn, I would hope that if you are the one the finishes the airplane you
would learn all there is to
know about the airplane you are building. Once again the repairman's
certificate has nothing
to do with the 51% rule. I could buy a half finished airplane with 5
other guys and never do
any work on it and still receive the repairman's certificate.
Jerry
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>Let's say you go out and buy a kit that's 90% complete. How are you
>going to convince the DAR or FAA inspector that you qualify for the
>repairman's certificate? In other words, that you have the neccessary
>skills to determine if the aircraft is in airworthy condition when doing
>the annual conditional inspection?
>I'm sure that some DARs or FAA inspectors would refuse to issue (or
>recommend, if the DARs don't issue) you the repairman cert, if all you
>did, for example, was to fit the canopy and cowling to finish the airplane.
>
>Finn
>
>Jerry Springer wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Finn, I have to ask why it needs to be cleared with a DAR or inspector
>>other than the obvious
>>of having them check the quality of what you are buying.
>>
>>Jerry
>>do not archive
>>
>>Finn Lassen wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>>
>>>I would make sure I had cleared that with the DAR or inspector who's
>>>going to give you the cert, BEFORE purchasing that kit.
>>>
>>>Finn
>>>
>>>Nick N wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>*** Snip ***
>>>>
>>>>Note that you'll have to purchase a kit that is less than
>>>>50% complete in order to qualify for the repairman certificate.
>>>>
>>>>*** End Snip ***
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | new stuff - bargain stuff - free stuff |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
NEW STUFF - BARGAIN STUFF - FREE STUFF
FREE
Pilot's Flight Bags
with any order over $100 from either www.buildersbooks.com or
www.PilotsBooks.com Just ask for it in special instructions in the on-line
order form or say so if ordering by phone. This is the same nice flightbag
we gave away during last year's Matronics fundraiser. One per customer,
Through October 15th
FREE
Instrument Commercial Textbook
Jeppesen just revised its core Instrument textbook and we've got 8 left of
the old one. (there's not much difference). Only problem - the covers have
been removed so they're a bit ugly. But the price is right - FREE with any
order from PilotsBooks or builders (so I have a basis to charge shipping).
Just ask for it. While supplies last.
BARGAIN STUFF
Understanding Aircraft Composite Construction
A good practical book on aircraft composite work. (have you gotten to the
finishing kit yet?) This is a good selling $30 book, but I've got about 10
copies with a 1" corner cut off the cover, so these 10 are half price - $15
details in composite section on www.buildersbooks.com but make a special
note if you want the half price version
BARGAIN STUFF
GPS Buyers Guide
Its about 5 years old so a bit dated, but still a good primer on GPS and
some radios. 2 left at $5 each
BARGAIN STUFF
21 Years of the RV-ator
$18.95 ($10 off through October 15th) RV-list special - ask for it
NEW
Aircraft Structural Technician
Everything there is to know about metal airplane construction and
repair. materials, procedures, tools, fasteners, etc... A how to
book. Heavy on technique, light on theory
$24.95 sheet metal section on www.buildersbooks.com
NEW
Aircraft Builder's Log
An official logbook for the construction of your RV. 180 pages to log your
shop time and progress for the FAA signoff with space for photos.
20 pages to log your expenses and material sources
$19.95 log book section on www.buildersbooks.com
NEW
Instrument/Commercial Textbook
Newly revised Instrument & Commercial Pilot textbook by Jeppesen.
Hard cover, full color, 900 pages, exceptionally complete and high quality
$81.95 ratings/instrument section on www.PilotsBooks.com
NEW
10/02/03 Chart Revisions
Sectionals - Dallas, Detroit, Klamath Falls, Lake Huron, Memphis
TACs - Cleveland, Detroit, Dallas, Memphis, Pittsburgh
WACs - CG-21, CH-22, CH-23
in charts section on www.PilotsBooks.com
(note eCharts has been merged with the new PilotsBooks catalog)
NEW
Aircraft Electrical Wiring - homebuilder's edition
a powerpoint virtual-book CD on the techniques and standards of aircraft
wiring. Includes alternator and magneto installation
$34.95 electrical section of www.buildersbooks.com
www.buildersbooks.com for the aircraft builder and technician
www.PilotsBooks.com for the pilot and aircraft owner
(both catalogs fully work together and share the same shopping cart)
Call or write for more information
800 780-4115
Thanks,
Andy
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Van's on Weight and Balance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Contrary to my earlier post regarding GW on the 6A, Van's is taking a different
approach on the RV-10. Below is a re post from the RV-10 list. This is from
Ken Krueger. Not sure why he is so adament about this, maybe due to the CG or
gear strength, who knows. Anyway, here it is for kicks!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
The maximum gross weight of the RV-10 is 2700 lb. PERIOD!!! Every
single ounce of "extras" that you add to the empty weight will deduct
not only from performance but also from the amount of people, fuel,
and
baggage that you can carry without exceeding 2700 lb. Please, please
don't give in to the temptation to operate your RV-10 outside of our
weight and CG recommendations. You are asking for our
recommendations about all the extras you are considering therefore I
believe that you value our inputs...please show that you indeed value
our
inputs by adhering to our gross weight, CG, and engine output
recommendations. My best advice to you and others is to simply build
the aircraft as designed and don't try to make the RV-10 into
something
that it isn't.
Thanks for your interest in the RV-10! So long for now.
Ken Krueger, Engineer
Van's Aircraft
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hi Geoff:
There are so many advantages now in getting a new kit from Van's. The
pre-punched kits are a joy to build, and the drawings are such an
improvement over the earlier ones.
You would be starting the process from the very beginning and have the
advantage of all the benefits that come with working with the great
institution that Van's Aircraft has become.
As to deciding what type of aircraft to build take a look at the number of
RV's flying now, somewhere in the area of 3500 and over 7000 starts.
For me one of the most important factors in choosing an RV is protecting my
investment. Compare the resale value of the RV's to some others.
This rv-list alone would be part of my decision to build one.
Pick the model you like and order the kit.
Eustace Bowhay Blind B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Gkb5577@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Kit Caution
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
>
> Good advice . Perhaps I should just get a new kit from Vans? Geoff
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rob Prior <rv7@b4.ca>
Bob wrote:
> I was asking that specific question. If we can say it is ok to have an
> 1800 lbs gross weight at 4.4 Gs, then can we have 6.6 Gs at 1250 lbs?
The answer is "maybe." It would depend on the airplane, and what that
airplane has been designed for. Using your numbers, here's an example
why this might not be safe:
Let's say you have an engine hanging on the front of the airplane that
weighs about 200# (ballpark for an O-3x0). At 1800# gross and at 4.4G,
that engine will pull on the engine mount with a force of (200)(4.4) =
880#. At 1250# and at 6.6G, the load on the engine mount would be
(200)(6.6) = 1320#. Note that the weight of the aircraft itself does
not factor into the equation. So that's 50% more load on the engine
mount, despite being at 70% of your gross weight. *If* the engine mount
is designed to take 6.6G, then you're okay. But if the airplane is
designed to be most efficient at 1800#/4.4G, the designer would probably
have saved the extra weight that would be needed to make a 6.6G engine
mount.
> If the G loading graph is linear (I don't know if it is) then we should be
> able to pull more Gs at less than aerobatic weight.
The G loading graph *can* be linear, but frequently isn't due to
limitations of individual components.
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
-RB4
Message 13
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| Subject: | baffling question? mounting oil cooler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
RV 5 1/2
At the rear corner of part 4. It talks about bending the flange 115 degrees
instead of 90. Also the flange that mates to this must be bent to match it.
There are no clear pictures showing this bend. Is it simply bent forward.
Will positech cooler not mount up or hoses not fit? or what.
I read something about engine mount clearance but it looks like it does fit
up.
I also have a used slightly bigger SW cooler.
Jerry Springer..What did you do?
Do not archive
Phil
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
There have been some comments about using 1800 lbs. as a gross weight on the RV
6 -6A. I may have in some way been responsible for some if them.
When I put my 6 on floats I worked closely with Van on this installation. I set
the gross at 1800 to accommodate the extra weight of the floats. The gross weight
increase is normal on most float installations as the floats tend to carry
most of their weight in flight.
In discussing this with Van he agreed with this on the basis of the approval was
for floats only and that our engineers were also in agreement. When the floats
are removed it reverts back to the 1600 lb GW.
I personally would go with what Van's recommends, who else is better qualified
to set this weight.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay B.C.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Maybe I missed something in this discussion about loads on various elements
of an RV but if the same airplane is considered with variations in the load
carried then doesn't it make sense that the loads on the wing spar, tail
spar etc are more important than those on the landing gear?
Apparently the gross weight of 1375 is acceptable with a limit of
6G's. Would make sense to calculate thus?
weight * G's = load
then
1375 * 6.0 = 4.4 * utility_gross_weight
1375 * 6.0 = 4.4 * 1875
In 30 years of flying I don't believe I have ever been at 4.4 so with care
it seems that a takeoff with 1800 is safe.
Have I just missed reading about the effects of gross weight on performance?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 16
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am posting this for a friend of a friend...
He needs a wood prop for a 160HP O320 with 3/8" bolts for his RV-4...
He is not on this list, so please contact him off list:
email: firepilot@yahoo.com
cell: 805-448-3078
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Joe Wiza <planejoel@juno.com>
I have my wings mounted on the fuselage. I just happened to lay a
straight edge on the wing main spar down to rear spar and found I have a
1/4 to 3/8" dip in the wing. Anyone experience this.
Joe RV9A Installing flaps and ailerons.
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Dang, I thought it was going to be a mouth-watering recipe I could prepare for
the next RV gathering. Bummer.
do not archive
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I am guessing that you did not do this on top of a rib right? This is
happening between the ribs right? That "dip" sounds normal, place the wing
out in the sun and just watch the skins start to expand and sometimes even
pop. Place it in the garage and then look at it when it is cool. There will
be a big difference, this is affectionally known as "oil canning".
At 05:07 PM 10/1/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Joe Wiza <planejoel@juno.com>
>
>I have my wings mounted on the fuselage. I just happened to lay a
>straight edge on the wing main spar down to rear spar and found I have a
>1/4 to 3/8" dip in the wing. Anyone experience this.
>
>
>Joe RV9A Installing flaps and ailerons.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 stick length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi mike,
Would recessing the additional lower panel section about 3/4" help you
reduce the amount you need to shorten the control stick?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-4 stick length
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan@earthlink.net>
>
> Mike,
> I had to lower mine 1" when I installed all my equipment for IFR. The
panel being lower didn't bother me, but the stick being lower did. You'll
get used to it, but it won't be the same as it was before. I installed the
Infinity grip so I wouldn't have to lower the panel more than an inch. If
you can achieve what you want without shortening the stick, I'd do it. I
flew mine 1050 hours before I shortened the stick, so I was used to the
lighter feel of the controls. But like I said, you'll get used to it.
> Jim Nolan
> N444JN
> used to it
>
>
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
When you say "dip" do you mean it dips down mid-span and then rises toward
the tip?
Did you jig your wings when assembling them?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Wiza" <planejoel@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wing Dip
> --> RV-List message posted by: Joe Wiza <planejoel@juno.com>
>
> I have my wings mounted on the fuselage. I just happened to lay a
> straight edge on the wing main spar down to rear spar and found I have a
> 1/4 to 3/8" dip in the wing. Anyone experience this.
>
>
> Joe RV9A Installing flaps and ailerons.
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Maybe that's the way it is with the DARs and FAA inspectors in your
area, but I still feel it's bum advice to a new guy on the list to say:
sure go out and buy any kit in any state of completeness, you will still
get your Repairman's cert.
Additionally, he'll in all likelyhood also need the previous builder's
logs to prove that 51% was indeed built for "education and recreation",
in order to get the airplane certified as amaturbuilt.
My recommendation of contacting the FAA or DAR before buying the
partially built kit still stands.
I beleive you'll find the same recommendations in EAA's Sport Aviation
articles and on their web site as well.
Finn
Jerry Springer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
>Finn, I would hope that if you are the one the finishes the airplane you
>would learn all there is to
>know about the airplane you are building. Once again the repairman's
>certificate has nothing
>to do with the 51% rule. I could buy a half finished airplane with 5
>other guys and never do
>any work on it and still receive the repairman's certificate.
>
>Jerry
>
>Finn Lassen wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>>
>>Let's say you go out and buy a kit that's 90% complete. How are you
>>going to convince the DAR or FAA inspector that you qualify for the
>>repairman's certificate? In other words, that you have the neccessary
>>skills to determine if the aircraft is in airworthy condition when doing
>>the annual conditional inspection?
>>I'm sure that some DARs or FAA inspectors would refuse to issue (or
>>recommend, if the DARs don't issue) you the repairman cert, if all you
>>did, for example, was to fit the canopy and cowling to finish the airplane.
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>Jerry Springer wrote:
>>
>>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: W&B on a -6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
You cannot do a linear extrapolation to figure out the G limits on our
airframes. Why??? Because most (all?) of the additional weight isn't
evenly distributed. Instead, it is concentrated in the fuselage - big
engine, constant speed prop, B-747 panel, lotsa bags, bubba sized people,
etc. This causes a non-linear increase in wing bending moments (and
probably other structural issues as well). If you could spread that weight
out evenly along the wings, you wouldn't have a bending moment problem, but
you can't strap bags or bubba to the wing, so there is no option for evenly
distributing additional weight.
Imagine this: Take a 8' 2"x4" board. Put your sawhorses 7'6" apart and lay
the 2x4 across the sawhorses so it is supported at each end. Lets say the
2x4 holds up when you spread ten 10 pound weights evenly across it. When
you add the 11th weight, the 2x4 breaks. Ok, you've established that that
2x4 can hold 100 evenly distributed pounds. What happens if you put all 100
pounds in the dead center of another 2x4? It breaks, right? How about if
you only stack 90 pounds in the center? That breaks the 2x4 too... 80
pounds - a broken 2x4...Why? Because the load is concentrated and this
increases bending moments. This is the same scenario we get into with our
airplanes when we start playing games with useful load - the extra load is
concentrated, not evenly distributed...
Do people fly Van's designs over the suggested gross? Sure. Do I? Yep.
My RV-6's gross is set at 1675 pounds. Do I have any idea what load factor
my airplane has at that weight? Nope, and neither does anyone unless
someone has done the appropriate finite element analyis on the entire
aircraft. I know Van's has done the analysis on the wing, but I've never
seen anything that says they have done the analysis for the whole airframe.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "kempthornes" <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: W&B on a -6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
> Maybe I missed something in this discussion about loads on various
elements
> of an RV but if the same airplane is considered with variations in the
load
> carried then doesn't it make sense that the loads on the wing spar, tail
> spar etc are more important than those on the landing gear?
>
> Apparently the gross weight of 1375 is acceptable with a limit of
> 6G's. Would make sense to calculate thus?
>
> weight * G's = load
>
> then
>
> 1375 * 6.0 = 4.4 * utility_gross_weight
>
> 1375 * 6.0 = 4.4 * 1875
>
> In 30 years of flying I don't believe I have ever been at 4.4 so with care
> it seems that a takeoff with 1800 is safe.
>
> Have I just missed reading about the effects of gross weight on
performance?
>
>
> K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
> RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
> PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Extended Length IP question |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Hi Doug,
Sell it? You must be out of your mind!
do not archive
In a message dated 9/30/2003 10:31:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dougr@petroblend.com writes:
My old RV-4 had a longer stick than my new one and I liked the longer stick
better. Not a big deal at all, but when you lower the panel you reduce the
market that you can sell your airplane to when you are thru with it, cause
us tall guys won't be buying it.
I would try to figure a different solution.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 25
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| Subject: | Canopy Frame Fit |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I am building an RV-7 and I was wondering how close I need to be on the
canopy frame fit. Vans says 1/16 inch inside all the way around. I am able to
get
1/16" on all the areas, but on the back area arc piece, it is supposed to be
1/16" lower than the back top skin. The best I can get is about even on the
left side and 1/8" low on the right side. It seems no matter what I do, I
cannot get it better than this without severely throwing off all the other
dimensions.
Will I be able to compensate for this mismatch, or will it be an issue?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike Kraus
Message 26
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| Subject: | RV-7 Intercom Jack Location |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I'm looking to mount my intercom Jacks and was wondering where others put
theirs and whether the liked the location or not. I have seen some with them
mounted on the top of the bulkhead that supports the seat backs above the flap
motor, but I think this would be more in the way when you wanted to reach back
for something.
Anyone have an opinion on the best location? Thanks
-Mike K
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
I want to install the flush type of latch
on the Oil inspection, door..
Does any one has pictures of this installation,
I could see, as to how build up the underneath portion
etc...
Thanks for any help on this..
Bert
rv6a
REady for wings soon..
Do Not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | fabric type seats |
--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hello:
I woulk like to know what type of fabric is most
used on our Rv's seats?
I have asked around, and no body knows what type
fabric they have on their seats...
I know they look beautiful, but I am sujre there
are differences on type and durability of material.
Many I have seeing looks as tweed type, but
is it, Cotton, wool, nylon?
thanks
Bert
rv6a
Wings soon
Do Not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Could you point these EAA recommendations out to me?
Cy Galley
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV frame of mind
> --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
> Maybe that's the way it is with the DARs and FAA inspectors in your
> area, but I still feel it's bum advice to a new guy on the list to say:
> sure go out and buy any kit in any state of completeness, you will still
> get your Repairman's cert.
>
> Additionally, he'll in all likelyhood also need the previous builder's
> logs to prove that 51% was indeed built for "education and recreation",
> in order to get the airplane certified as amaturbuilt.
>
> My recommendation of contacting the FAA or DAR before buying the
> partially built kit still stands.
> I beleive you'll find the same recommendations in EAA's Sport Aviation
> articles and on their web site as well.
>
> Finn
>
> Jerry Springer wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
> >
> >Finn, I would hope that if you are the one the finishes the airplane you
> >would learn all there is to
> >know about the airplane you are building. Once again the repairman's
> >certificate has nothing
> >to do with the 51% rule. I could buy a half finished airplane with 5
> >other guys and never do
> >any work on it and still receive the repairman's certificate.
> >
> >Jerry
> >
> >Finn Lassen wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
> >>
> >>Let's say you go out and buy a kit that's 90% complete. How are you
> >>going to convince the DAR or FAA inspector that you qualify for the
> >>repairman's certificate? In other words, that you have the neccessary
> >>skills to determine if the aircraft is in airworthy condition when doing
> >>the annual conditional inspection?
> >>I'm sure that some DARs or FAA inspectors would refuse to issue (or
> >>recommend, if the DARs don't issue) you the repairman cert, if all you
> >>did, for example, was to fit the canopy and cowling to finish the
airplane.
> >>
> >>Finn
> >>
> >>Jerry Springer wrote:
> >>
> >>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Question on P>C> |
--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
Question on P>C>,,for the first time ever, I got a
virus on my P>c.
My P.c. has the program Mccaffe or someting like
that, which suppose to prevent this...
For those who have had this experience, what is
the best way to clear this?
It is a real pain....
Thanks for suggestions
Bert
rv6a
do not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: fabric type seats |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Bert,
I went to a store that supplies auto seat fabric and got stuff that matched
my Astro van.
If you see any auto upholstery you like, just take the make/model/year info
to an auto seat place and they can get the fabric for you. The choices
are endless....
DJ Lauritsen had no problem using fabric I supplied....
gil in Tucson
At 02:41 AM 10/2/2003 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hello:
>
> I woulk like to know what type of fabric is most
>used on our Rv's seats?
>
> I have asked around, and no body knows what type
>fabric they have on their seats...
>
> I know they look beautiful, but I am sujre there
>are differences on type and durability of material.
>
> Many I have seeing looks as tweed type, but
>is it, Cotton, wool, nylon?
>
> thanks
>
>
>Bert
>rv6a
>
> Wings soon
>
>Do Not archive
>
>Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
>http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Question on P>C> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Bert,
Here is something to try Http://www.sarc.com explore there and follow links
to find fixes etc.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: Question on P>C>
> --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
> Question on P>C>,,for the first time ever, I got a
> virus on my P>c.
>
> My P.c. has the program Mccaffe or someting like
> that, which suppose to prevent this...
>
> For those who have had this experience, what is
> the best way to clear this?
>
> It is a real pain....
>
>
> Thanks for suggestions
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> do not archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley" <dirtrider@qnet.com>
Those running a Catto Prop --are you happy with the prop and the
performance?
I am building an RV-8 with a O-360 and considering a fixed pitch prop,
Sensenich or the three bladed Catto looks great. Any thoughts?
Rich Crosley
Palmdale,CA
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
Hi-Some builders have heated the wing skins when riviting,then they don't oil
can-Tom
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Taxi Tests)
S-51-D Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
Message 35
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| Subject: | FIBERGLASS NOW OR LATER |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All,
What's the prefferred time to fiberglass tips on some of the newer kits/ Is it
best to do it now while i am finishing the emp, or should i wait and do it all
at once/ Anyone wish they would have done it one way or another/ Also, one
person told me that his fiberglass significantly warped over time and he had
to buy new when he finally did the fiberglass...anyone else have that experience/
thanks,
scott
7a emp/wings
http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 36
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| Subject: | Fiberglass Now or Later |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
For those that have been through it...if you were to do it again, would you fiberglass
the emp tips when you finish that particular kit? Or, would you wait
and do it all at the same time later? I have heard that the tips can warp over
time...anyone else have that experience? What's the preferred method?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
>On the compact hub propeller they use a combination of a stud and a nut
>that are pinned together with a roll pin and of course a washer between
>the nut and the propeller hub. This all came assembled on my prop so I
>didn't pay a lot of attention to it but I guess they use that
>combination because there isn't enough room to get a bolt in. The only
>way you can run the safety wire is through the hole in the roll pin.
>Dave
Someone was describing this configuration to me but said that it has
solid pins. Maybe I should find a way to contact Hartzell.
do not archive
Joel Graber
-4 finishing
Ms
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Frame Fit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Sure, you'll be able to compensate for the mismatch. It'll just mean more
work fitting the aft skirts. What you need to ask yourself is whether
you're building a good airplane, or if you want an Oshkosh award winner.
Most folks I know start out to build an Oshkosh winner, but after a few
dozen smiley's and other cosmetic blurs, they realize that a nice airplane
is good enough, and Oshkosh award winners are for the gifted, experienced,
and/or obsessed builder...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Frame Fit
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> I am building an RV-7 and I was wondering how close I need to be on the
> canopy frame fit. Vans says 1/16 inch inside all the way around. I am
able to get
> 1/16" on all the areas, but on the back area arc piece, it is supposed to
be
> 1/16" lower than the back top skin. The best I can get is about even on
the
> left side and 1/8" low on the right side. It seems no matter what I do, I
> cannot get it better than this without severely throwing off all the other
> dimensions.
>
> Will I be able to compensate for this mismatch, or will it be an issue?
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
Message 39
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--> RV-List message posted by: Pete Waters <pedroagua@yahoo.com>
Rich,
When I bought my RV-4 it came with a 3-bladed Catto. I've only had the airplane
for about 60 hours, but the logbook shows about 500+ with the Catto. No problems.
One thing though... this older prop has no leading edge protectors. Thus, NO
erosion protection in rain. Craig Catto now puts LE protectors on his props.
Also, a product called Prop Guard is now on the street. I haven't applied it
to my prop yet, but a fellow RV-4 pilot named Rob "SmokeyRay" Ray has, and he
absolutely swears by it. I think Craig Catto will add it to your prop if you
ask for it; if not, you can (and should) do it yourself.
Pedro
Rich Crosley <dirtrider@qnet.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rich Crosley"
Those running a Catto Prop --are you happy with the prop and the
performance?
I am building an RV-8 with a O-360 and considering a fixed pitch prop,
Sensenich or the three bladed Catto looks great. Any thoughts?
Rich Crosley
Palmdale,CA
---------------------------------
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: FIBERGLASS NOW OR LATER |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I had my wing tips on a shelf laying flat for about 7 months. When I took
them off one had a really nice flat spot, the other was fine. I took some
towels and foam and stuffed the entire tip for about a week and the flat
spot disappeared. The smaller parts are stiff enough that you shouldn't get
any distortion but when storing the wing tips place them with the open end
(side that attaches to the wing) facing down. Don't lay them on the side.
Same with the cowling and other large parts.
As far as when to do it.....doesn't really matter.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: FIBERGLASS NOW OR LATER
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
>
> All,
>
> What's the prefferred time to fiberglass tips on some of the newer kits/
Is it best to do it now while i am finishing the emp, or should i wait and
do it all at once/ Anyone wish they would have done it one way or another/
Also, one person told me that his fiberglass significantly warped over time
and he had to buy new when he finally did the fiberglass...anyone else have
that experience/
>
> thanks,
> scott
> 7a emp/wings
> http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
>
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Skyforce Moving Map on ebay |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Same as King prior to Skymap's aquisition by king:
Item number: 2434561399
Currently at $480
SKYFORCE
CM2001 Color Skymap
FEATURES:
Voltage required: 10-30 Vdc
6 month factory warranty
Americas database card
Database date: 10-97
Sofware version: V2.09
Tray and connector are not included, but are availble from Bendix/King at an
additional charge.
SV condition
Exceptional value!
Law that forbid ownership of arms disarm only those who are neither
inclined, nor determined to commit crimes. Such laws make things worse for
the assaulted and better for the assailants. They serve rather to encourage
than to prevent homicides, for an unarmed man may be attacked with greater
confidence than an armed man. --Thomas Jefferson
Message 42
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
******************************************************************************
RV-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
-------
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
On my -6A, I put the headphone jacks on the main panel on the little stub
that sticks out below the longeron on each side. This is otherwise probably
just wasted space plus the wiring can be more or less permanently run from
the jacks to the panel mounted radio. IOW, the panel can be removed without
disturbing this wiring. If the back of the cockpit location is used then the
jacks have to be removed and the wiring unthread from the structure or some
sort of plug arrangement has to be made up to remove the panel.
I use a few bits of velcro to hold the headphone wires up out of the way to
go back and then loop forward. The aft bulkhead position avoids this.
Almost everything in life is a compromise and this is too. I choose to come
down on the side of slightly easier maintenance.
Jim Oke
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> I'm looking to mount my intercom Jacks and was wondering where others put
> theirs and whether the liked the location or not. I have seen some with
them
> mounted on the top of the bulkhead that supports the seat backs above the
flap
> motor, but I think this would be more in the way when you wanted to reach
back
> for something.
>
> Anyone have an opinion on the best location? Thanks
> -Mike K
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Rib to Spar Rivets--Thank You |
--> RV-List message posted by: Warren W Hurd <warren@ahyup.com>
Many thanks to all those who have written about my rib to spar rivet
problem.
Things that will be changed when I try again are.
1, A 3X rebuilt rivet gun just ordered from The Yard
2, A long straight rivet set.
3, I will also try to find some hockey shin tape to put on the rivet
head.
4, Turn the spars upside down so that I will be looking at the factory
head during the riveting process.
5, Remove some the wooden spar supports so the spar will flex slightly
during riveting.
6, Try a starting pressure of about 40 psi.
7, Smooth out some of the smileys on the ribs. The spar was undamaged.
8, For some reason I had thought that the flow valve hat comes with a
gun kit was ball valve. So in the future I will turn it more than 180
degrees. I had thought the valve was rather ineffectual.
9, Make a small gauge to locate the center of the rivet, and remove the
bad rivet heads.
10, Then drive out the bad rivets with a punch.
I also liked the exhaust pipe anti rotate tool, which I will probably
try at some time.
Thanks again for the many words of encouragement. My confidence has been
restored.
Warren
http://ahyup.com
90454 (Rib to Spar Rivets, again)
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