Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:00 AM - Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (Jeff Point)
2. 03:44 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Wayne R. Couture)
3. 05:17 AM - Re: fabric type seats (Lenleg@aol.com)
4. 05:37 AM - Re: Question on P>C> (Cy Galley)
5. 06:47 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Finn Lassen)
6. 08:22 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Jerry Springer)
7. 09:13 AM - re- alternator RPM / speed (Jim Jewell)
8. 09:35 AM - Re: Fiberglass Now or Later (Bob)
9. 09:39 AM - Re: Re: RV frame of mind (Cy Galley)
10. 09:45 AM - Manual elevator trim placard (Delee & Pete)
11. 09:58 AM - Re: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location (Paul Besing)
12. 10:09 AM - Re: baffling question? mounting oil cooler (Neil Henderson)
13. 10:15 AM - Re: Manual elevator trim placard ()
14. 10:15 AM - Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
15. 10:49 AM - Re: Manual elevator trim placard (John)
16. 11:01 AM - Re: Fiberglass Now or Later (Phil Birkelbach)
17. 12:02 PM - RV9A Boost pump (Joe Wiza)
18. 12:27 PM - Polished (Wheeler North)
19. 03:00 PM - C-frame hammer (Ron Bakus)
20. 03:33 PM - LOE3 (John)
21. 04:25 PM - Re: C-frame hammer (Greg Young)
22. 04:59 PM - Re: Fiberglass Now or Later (Rick Galati)
23. 04:59 PM - Re: baffling question? mounting oil cooler (Charles Rowbotham)
24. 05:40 PM - Re: C-frame hammer (Marcel)
25. 05:45 PM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
26. 06:29 PM - Saturday (Larry Pardue)
27. 07:50 PM - Re: Saturday (Doug Rozendaal)
28. 08:11 PM - Re: FIBERGLASS NOW OR LATER (Ernest Kells)
29. 08:36 PM - Re: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location/start (Amit Dagan)
30. 08:36 PM - Seat fabric considerations (Richard Scott)
31. 09:16 PM - Re: Saturday (PittsS1@aol.com)
32. 09:20 PM - Re: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location/start (Dan Checkoway)
33. 09:21 PM - Re: Saturday (PittsS1@aol.com)
34. 09:25 PM - Re: Saturday (PittsS1@aol.com)
35. 09:34 PM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (Nick N)
36. 10:02 PM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
37. 10:27 PM - Previously owned RV kits (Lyle Peterson)
38. 10:34 PM - Re: Seat fabric considerations (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
The archives make a few references to people who were going to try this,
but no mention of the results. Anyone mounted the transponder antenna
in under the cowl? Thoughts on this?
Jeff Point
RV-6 panel, wiring
Milwaukee WI
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture" <commando@cox-internet.com>
Where can I get the info on this unit and have you compared it with the PS
501?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stereo intercom opinions wanted
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
<noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
> I us the AA-83 by NAT
>
> This is the best unit by far IMHO. I have used the PS engineering's units
> and was very happy with the PM7000B, but just for an intercom the AA-83 is
> by far the best for the Van's aircraft line and the other small noisy ones
> like Kitfox.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Noel Simmons
> Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
> Phone: 866-859-0390
> Fax: 406-538-6574
> noel@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:noel@blueskyaviation.net>
> www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Stereo intercom opinions wanted
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers,
> I'm looking for a stereo panel mount intercom for my 8A. The consensus
> seems to be that the PS Engineering intercoms are the best. The are also
the
> most expensive. I'd like to know what listers using the Flightcom 403S or
> 403D think of these units. Is anyone using Softcom's ATC-2PS? Any other
> units I should look at?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
Message 3
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|
| Subject: | Re: fabric type seats |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Bert:
I am in the furniture manufacturing business and getting ready to start
making RV seats ... having produced several sets already.
Most of the fabrics that seem applicable to aircraft seats have a lot of
polyester, rayon and cotton in them. They are a textured fabric. Very durable
and rugged.
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
148 hrs
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">Bert:<BR>
<BR>
I am in the furniture manufacturing business and getting ready to start maki=
ng RV seats ... having produced several sets already. <BR>
<BR>
Most of the fabrics that seem applicable to aircraft seats have a lot of pol=
yester, rayon and cotton in them. They are a textured fabric. Ve=
ry durable and rugged.<BR>
<BR>
Len Leggette, RV-8A<BR>
Greensboro, NC N910LL<BR>
148 hrs</FONT></HTML>
Message 4
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|
| Subject: | Re: Question on P>C> |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
try going to
http://www.pandasoftware.com/activescan/com/activescan_principal.htm
and do their scan. It works and it is free.
Cy Galley - Webmaster www.qcbc.org
----- Original Message -----
From: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: Question on P>C>
> --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
> Question on P>C>,,for the first time ever, I got a
> virus on my P>c.
>
> My P.c. has the program Mccaffe or someting like
> that, which suppose to prevent this...
>
> For those who have had this experience, what is
> the best way to clear this?
>
> It is a real pain....
>
>
> Thanks for suggestions
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> do not archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 5
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Sure, here's a couple:
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/How%20to%20get%20Your%20Repairman%20Certificate.html
I am thinking about buying a 95% complete project from another builder,
will I be able to get a Repairman Certificate?
If you, as the final builder, can convince the FAA or DAR inspector that
you have the requisite skill necessary for determining whether the
aircraft is in condition for safe operation, the inspector should give
you the Repairman Certificate.
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Decision%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#TopOfPage
Now that we have prepared our workspace and ourselves for the task at
hand we are ready to being the actual building of component parts.
Remember to establish a relationship with a DAR (Designated
Airworthiness Representative) or an FAA inspector at this point.
Cy and Jerry, I'm really surprised that you don't agree with me. Why
would you want a newbie to charge ahead, dump a lot of $ into a nearly
completed kit, only to find that he's denied his repairman cert because
he can't "convince the FAA or DAR inspector that you have the requisite
skill...", when he could have gotten with the DAR or FAA inspector
before buying the kit and worked it out?
Finn
Cy Galley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
>Could you point these EAA recommendations out to me?
>Cy Galley
>
>
<html>
<head>
<title></title>
</head>
<body text="#000000" bgcolor="#ffffff">
Sure, here's a couple:<br>
<br>
<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/How%20to%20get%20Your%20Repairman%20Certificate.html">http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/How%20to%20get%20Your%20Repairman%20Certificate.html</a><br>
<font face="Arial" size="2"><b><br>
I am thinking about buying a 95% complete project from another builder,
will I be able to get a Repairman Certificate?</b><br>
If you, as the final builder, can convince the FAA or DAR inspector
that you have the requisite skill necessary for determining whether the
aircraft is in condition for safe operation, the inspector should give
you the Repairman Certificate.<br>
<br>
</font><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Decision%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#TopOfPage">http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Decision%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#TopOfPage</a><br>
<font face="Arial" size="2">Now that we have prepared our workspace and
ourselves for the task at hand we are ready to being the actual
building of component parts. Remember to establish a relationship with
a DAR (Designated Airworthiness Representative) or an FAA inspector at
this point.</font><br>
<br>
Cy and Jerry, I'm really surprised that you don't agree with me. Why
would you want a newbie to charge ahead, dump a lot of $ into a nearly
completed kit, only to find that he's denied his repairman cert because
he can't<font face="Arial" size="2"> "convince the FAA or DAR inspector
that you have the requisite skill...", when he could have gotten with
the DAR or FAA inspector before buying the kit and worked it out?</font><br>
<br>
Finn<br>
<br>
Cy Galley wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid200310020241.h922fZ931416@matronics.com">
<pre wrap="">--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:cgalley@qcbc.org"><cgalley@qcbc.org></a>
Could you point these EAA recommendations out to me?
Cy Galley
</pre>
</blockquote>
</body>
</html>
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Finn, I am not saying it is a bad idea and it is probably a good idea,
but it is not a prerequisite.
Anyone that buys an RV that is so called 70 or 80% done and they finnish
it, is going to have
a very good understanding of how it is built and get the education end
of it also.
I WOULD encourage any "newbie" that is going to buy a project have an
experienced person
with them to look at the project to make sure is built right.
Jerry
do not archive
Finn Lassen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>
>Sure, here's a couple:
>
>http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/How%20to%20get%20Your%20Repairman%20Certificate.html
>
>I am thinking about buying a 95% complete project from another builder,
>will I be able to get a Repairman Certificate?
>If you, as the final builder, can convince the FAA or DAR inspector that
>you have the requisite skill necessary for determining whether the
>aircraft is in condition for safe operation, the inspector should give
>you the Repairman Certificate.
>
>http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Decision%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#TopOfPage
>Now that we have prepared our workspace and ourselves for the task at
>hand we are ready to being the actual building of component parts.
>Remember to establish a relationship with a DAR (Designated
>Airworthiness Representative) or an FAA inspector at this point.
>
>Cy and Jerry, I'm really surprised that you don't agree with me. Why
>would you want a newbie to charge ahead, dump a lot of $ into a nearly
>completed kit, only to find that he's denied his repairman cert because
>he can't "convince the FAA or DAR inspector that you have the requisite
>skill...", when he could have gotten with the DAR or FAA inspector
>before buying the kit and worked it out?
>
>Finn
>
>Cy Galley wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>>
>>Could you point these EAA recommendations out to me?
>>Cy Galley
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
><html>
><head>
> <title></title>
></head>
><body text="#000000" bgcolor="#ffffff">
>Sure, here's a couple:<br>
><br>
><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/How%20to%20get%20Your%20Repairman%20Certificate.html">http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/How%20to%20get%20Your%20Repairman%20Certificate.html</a><br>
><font face="Arial" size="2"><b><br>
>I am thinking about buying a 95% complete project from another builder,
>will I be able to get a Repairman Certificate?</b><br>
>If you, as the final builder, can convince the FAA or DAR inspector
>that you have the requisite skill necessary for determining whether the
>aircraft is in condition for safe operation, the inspector should give
>you the Repairman Certificate.<br>
><br>
></font><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Decision%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#TopOfPage">http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Decision%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#TopOfPage</a><br>
><font face="Arial" size="2">Now that we have prepared our workspace and
>ourselves for the task at hand we are ready to being the actual
>building of component parts. Remember to establish a relationship with
>a DAR (Designated Airworthiness Representative) or an FAA inspector at
>this point.</font><br>
><br>
>Cy and Jerry, I'm really surprised that you don't agree with me. Why
>would you want a newbie to charge ahead, dump a lot of $ into a nearly
>completed kit, only to find that he's denied his repairman cert because
>he can't<font face="Arial" size="2"> "convince the FAA or DAR inspector
>that you have the requisite skill...", when he could have gotten with
>the DAR or FAA inspector before buying the kit and worked it out?</font><br>
><br>
>Finn<br>
><br>
>Cy Galley wrote:<br>
><blockquote type="cite"
> cite="mid200310020241.h922fZ931416@matronics.com">
> <pre wrap="">--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href="mailto:cgalley@qcbc.org"><cgalley@qcbc.org></a>
>
>Could you point these EAA recommendations out to me?
>Cy Galley
> </pre>
></blockquote>
></body>
></html>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | re- alternator RPM / speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
This morning I recieved this information from a fellow who states the
following about alternator speed / RPM.
"'from a person who has access to the ND drawings- Max rpm is 18000 rpm,
rated output is achieved at 5000 rpm. Minimum rpm for any output is
1500 rpm.'"
He hopes that this should convey the essential information to those
people concerned about overspeeding alternators.
At his request, I have chosen to provided the above information in the
manner he requested,
It is hoped that this will be helpful information in the archives.
Jim in Kelowna
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>This morning I recieved this
information from a
fellow who states the following about alternator speed /
RPM.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2><FONT faceArial
size2></FONT></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2><FONT face"Times New Roman"
size3>"'from a person
who has access to the ND drawings- Max rpm is 18000 rpm, rated output is
achieved at 5000 rpm. Minimum rpm for any output is 1500
rpm.'"<BR><BR>He
hopes that this should convey the essential information to those people
concerned about overspeeding alternators.</FONT><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>At his request, I have chosen to
provided the above
information in the manner he requested,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>It is hoped that this will be helpful
information
in the archives.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Jim in
Kelowna</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Now or Later |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>For those that have been through it...if you were to do it again, would
>you fiberglass the emp tips when you finish that particular kit? Or,
>would you wait and do it all at the same time later? I have heard that
>the tips can warp over time...anyone else have that experience? What's
>the preferred method?
Fiberglass when it is convenient and warm.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV frame of mind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I'm sorry but I subscribe the positive idea that the glass is half full. Not
getting a Limited Repairman's isn't the end of the world. One can still do
all the maintenance and have the use of the airplane, you just have to get
an A&P to sign it off.
Now if the person has much building experience, the EAA statement that you
quote still permits you to get the Certificate. But as you say, you might
check with your DAR before purchase if the certificate is that important.
Many RVs are sold after completion and then require the use of an A&P if the
builder with the certificate will not do the conditional. It can't be that
big a deal as these sales go for really big bucks.
Have a friend that has built several prize winners and then sells when he
gets the next plane finished. I know he doesn't do any conditional
inspections after that. The certificate isn't that big a deal. If it was,
these projects would sell at a loss instead of $120 grand and up.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finnlassen@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV frame of mind
> --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finnlassen@netzero.net>
>
>
> Sure, here's a couple:
>
>
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/How%20to%20get%20Your%20Repairman%20Certificate.html
>
> I am thinking about buying a 95% complete project from another builder,
> will I be able to get a Repairman Certificate?
> If you, as the final builder, can convince the FAA or DAR inspector that
> you have the requisite skill necessary for determining whether the
> aircraft is in condition for safe operation, the inspector should give
> you the Repairman Certificate.
>
>
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Decision%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#TopOfPage
> Now that we have prepared our workspace and ourselves for the task at
> hand we are ready to being the actual building of component parts.
> Remember to establish a relationship with a DAR (Designated
> Airworthiness Representative) or an FAA inspector at this point.
>
> Cy and Jerry, I'm really surprised that you don't agree with me. Why
> would you want a newbie to charge ahead, dump a lot of $ into a nearly
> completed kit, only to find that he's denied his repairman cert because
> he can't "convince the FAA or DAR inspector that you have the requisite
> skill...", when he could have gotten with the DAR or FAA inspector
> before buying the kit and worked it out?
>
> Finn
>
> Cy Galley wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> >Could you point these EAA recommendations out to me?
> >Cy Galley
> >
> >
>
>
> <html>
> <head>
> <title></title>
> </head>
> <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#ffffff">
> Sure, here's a couple:<br>
> <br>
> <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/How%20to%20get%20Your%20R
epairman%20Certificate.html">http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/faq/Ho
w%20to%20get%20Your%20Repairman%20Certificate.html</a><br>
> <font face="Arial" size="2"><b><br>
> I am thinking about buying a 95% complete project from another builder,
> will I be able to get a Repairman Certificate?</b><br>
> If you, as the final builder, can convince the FAA or DAR inspector
> that you have the requisite skill necessary for determining whether the
> aircraft is in condition for safe operation, the inspector should give
> you the Repairman Certificate.<br>
> <br>
> </font><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Deci
sion%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#TopOfPage">http://members.eaa.org/home/ho
mebuilders/selecting/articles/The%20Decision%20is%20Made...Now%20What.html#T
opOfPage</a><br>
> <font face="Arial" size="2">Now that we have prepared our workspace and
> ourselves for the task at hand we are ready to being the actual
> building of component parts. Remember to establish a relationship with
> a DAR (Designated Airworthiness Representative) or an FAA inspector at
> this point.</font><br>
> <br>
> Cy and Jerry, I'm really surprised that you don't agree with me. Why
> would you want a newbie to charge ahead, dump a lot of $ into a nearly
> completed kit, only to find that he's denied his repairman cert because
> he can't<font face="Arial" size="2"> "convince the FAA or DAR inspector
> that you have the requisite skill...", when he could have gotten with
> the DAR or FAA inspector before buying the kit and worked it
out?</font><br>
> <br>
> Finn<br>
> <br>
> Cy Galley wrote:<br>
> <blockquote type="cite"
> cite="mid200310020241.h922fZ931416@matronics.com">
> <pre wrap="">--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:cgalley@qcbc.org"><cgalley@qcbc.org></a>
>
> Could you point these EAA recommendations out to me?
> Cy Galley
> </pre>
> </blockquote>
> </body>
> </html>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Manual elevator trim placard |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Delee & Pete" <4680@comcast.net>
I am looking for a source for a placard for my manual elevator trim.
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I am looking for a source for a placard
for my
manual elevator trim.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Mine were in the baggage compartment. The forwad side panel, where the flap
arm exits the fuselage, if you can picture that panel. I put them on the
top of that panel. Works well, because the headset cord just hangs behind
you, over your left shoulder (pilot) and over the right shoulder (pax).
Easy and out of the way. One thing I did not want is heasdset wires in my
lap or around the controls in anyway.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Oke" <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
> On my -6A, I put the headphone jacks on the main panel on the little stub
> that sticks out below the longeron on each side. This is otherwise
probably
> just wasted space plus the wiring can be more or less permanently run from
> the jacks to the panel mounted radio. IOW, the panel can be removed
without
> disturbing this wiring. If the back of the cockpit location is used then
the
> jacks have to be removed and the wiring unthread from the structure or
some
> sort of plug arrangement has to be made up to remove the panel.
>
> I use a few bits of velcro to hold the headphone wires up out of the way
to
> go back and then loop forward. The aft bulkhead position avoids this.
>
> Almost everything in life is a compromise and this is too. I choose to
come
> down on the side of slightly easier maintenance.
>
> Jim Oke
> RV-6A C-GKGZ
> Winnipeg, MB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <N223RV@aol.com>
> To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>; <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>;
> <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
> >
> > I'm looking to mount my intercom Jacks and was wondering where others
put
> > theirs and whether the liked the location or not. I have seen some with
> them
> > mounted on the top of the bulkhead that supports the seat backs above
the
> flap
> > motor, but I think this would be more in the way when you wanted to
reach
> back
> > for something.
> >
> > Anyone have an opinion on the best location? Thanks
> > -Mike K
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: baffling question? mounting oil cooler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
Phil
I finished my baffles a few days ago and was as puzzled as you are. Used
the stiffener out of the box with the bend at 90 degrees. It all fitted
well using the standard Vans supplied oil cooler. Can only assume the
instructions were for an earlier iteration.
Neil Henderson UK RV9 -A
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2730.1700" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Phil</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I finished my baffles a few days
ago and was
as puzzled as you are. Used the stiffener out of the box with the
bend at
90 degrees. It all fitted well using the standard Vans supplied
oil
cooler. Can only assume the instructions were for an earlier
iteration.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Neil Henderson UK RV9
-A</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Manual elevator trim placard |
--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
Source: Cleveland Tools / 1-800-368-1822
Part #: PTR-100
Cost: ~$6, or so?
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Delee & Pete
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 10:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Manual elevator trim placard
--> RV-List message posted by: "Delee & Pete" <4680@comcast.net>
I am looking for a source for a placard for my manual elevator trim.
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I am looking for a source for a placard
for my
manual elevator trim.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
=
=
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial color#000080>Source: Cleveland Tools
/ 1-800-368-1822</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial color#000080>Part #:
PTR-100
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial color#000080>Cost:
~$6, or
so?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial color#000080></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial color#000080>do not archive</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial color#000080></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV
style"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color:
black"><B>From:</B>
<A title4680@comcast.net href"mailto:4680@comcast.net">Delee
& Pete</A>
</DIV>
<DIV style"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
titlerv-list@matronics.com
href"mailto:rv-list@matronics.com">rv-list@matronics.com</A> </DIV>
<DIV style"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, October 02,
2003 10:45
AM</DIV>
<DIV style"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RV-List: Manual
elevator trim
placard</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>--> RV-List message posted by: "Delee & Pete"
<<A
href"mailto:4680@comcast.net">4680@comcast.net</A>><BR><BR><BR>I
am
looking for a source for a placard for my manual elevator
trim.<BR><BR><HTML><HEAD><BR><META content"MSHTML
6.00.2800.1226"
nameGENERATOR><BR><STYLE></STYLE><BR></HEAD><BR><=
BODY
bgColor#ffffff><BR><DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I am
looking for
a source for a placard<BR>for my<BR>manual elevator
=
=
nbsp; &n=
bsp;
through
banner ads or
=
=
href"http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report">http://www.matronics.com=
=
=
nbsp;
UN/SUBSCRIBE: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/subscription">http://www.matronics.com/s=
List FAQ: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm">http://www.matronics.co=
Search Engine: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/search">http://www.matronics.com/search<=
7-Day Browse: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list">http://www.matronics.com=
Browse Digests: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list">http://www.matronics.com=
Archives: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/archives">http://www.matronics.com/archi=
Photo Share: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/photoshare">http://www.matronics.com/pho=
List Specific: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/rv-list">http://www.matronics.com/rv-lis=
Other Lists: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/emaillists">http://www.matronics.com/ema=
Trouble Report <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report">http://www.matronics.com=
Contributions: <A
href"http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c=
=
=
<BR><BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Stereo intercom opinions wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
I sent you information on the AA-83 directly. As far as a comparison with
the PM501! There is none. Similar to comparing Yugo's with Aston Martin's,
they will both get you there but you wont get any on the way in the Yugo.
Noel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Wayne R. Couture
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stereo intercom opinions wanted
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne R. Couture"
<commando@cox-internet.com>
Where can I get the info on this unit and have you compared it with the PS
501?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Stereo intercom opinions wanted
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
<noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
> I us the AA-83 by NAT
>
> This is the best unit by far IMHO. I have used the PS engineering's units
> and was very happy with the PM7000B, but just for an intercom the AA-83 is
> by far the best for the Van's aircraft line and the other small noisy ones
> like Kitfox.
>
> Sincerely,
>
> Noel Simmons
> Blue Sky Aviation, Inc.
> Phone: 866-859-0390
> Fax: 406-538-6574
> noel@blueskyaviation.net <mailto:noel@blueskyaviation.net>
> www.blueskyaviation.net <http://www.blueskyaviation.net>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Stereo intercom opinions wanted
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers,
> I'm looking for a stereo panel mount intercom for my 8A. The consensus
> seems to be that the PS Engineering intercoms are the best. The are also
the
> most expensive. I'd like to know what listers using the Flightcom 403S or
> 403D think of these units. Is anyone using Softcom's ATC-2PS? Any other
> units I should look at?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Manual elevator trim placard |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Avery has a decal that fits right on the manual elevator knob that shows
which way to turn it for UP or DOWN...as I recall it costs around $5 and has
'stuck' on for 8-year now with no trouble. Call them...they are listed in
the Yeller pages
John
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Now or Later |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I have found it useful to save tasks like that (ones that are not on the
critical path) to do when I am waiting on parts or tools. I got a lot of
fiberglass done when some confusion about my fuselage order caused a 4 week
delay in shipping. :-)
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob" <panamared2@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass Now or Later
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
>
>
> >For those that have been through it...if you were to do it again, would
> >you fiberglass the emp tips when you finish that particular kit? Or,
> >would you wait and do it all at the same time later? I have heard that
> >the tips can warp over time...anyone else have that experience? What's
> >the preferred method?
>
>
> Fiberglass when it is convenient and warm.
>
> Bob
> RV6 NightFighter
>
>
Message 17
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Joe Wiza <planejoel@juno.com>
I found that making the 90 deg turn from the bottom of the boost pump was
difficult. I re drilled the pump an additional few deg to right in
order to keep from running into the floor. I guess a 45 deg elbo would
help. anyway you may want to check this before mounting pump.
RV9A Fuel lines
Message 18
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Remember,
your aircraft is covered with pure aluminum, called Alclad, polishing will
eventually remove this layer.
W
Message 19
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Bakus <bigblockron@yahoo.com>
--0-496134999-1065131975=:54421
Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a
C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow?
thanks
Ron
---------------------------------
--0-496134999-1065131975=:54421
<DIV>
<DIV>Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a</DIV>
<DIV>C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>thanks</DIV>
<DIV>Ron</DIV></DIV><BR><BR><p><hr SIZE=1>
--0-496134999-1065131975=:54421--
Message 20
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Where is the Saturday evening "banquet" being held?
John
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Wood. I use a hard maple mallet. Cheap, natural deadening and
environmentally friendly - What more can you ask for?
Greg
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Bakus <bigblockron@yahoo.com>
>
> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421
>
> Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a
> C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow?
>
> thanks
> Ron
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass Now or Later |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
--0-28179566-1065138910=:82848
Scott,
I worked the fiberglass components to complete each kit. There really isn't a
whole lot in the empennage kit and although overkill, I made everything except
the vertical tip removable with #4 screws and nutplates. Ditto for the wingtips,
though I got my first real taste of epoxy work when I bonded on the optional
nav night extentions and prewired/installed the nav lights. While waiting
for the engine, I got the wheel pants and gear leg fairings done using Bob Snedacker's
premade intersection fairings. In short, I did the fiberglass in kit
stages and although many other tasks need to be done before first flight, I
can say all the fiberglass work is done, including microballooning the pin holes.
Actually for me, the greatest challenge was mating the upper and lower cowls
because as mine came in the finish kit were far from having a good fit. Lots
of cutting, bonding, and sanding there. But the experience I gained over
the months working with the fiberglass components in
progressively more challenging steps paid off and that job was not nearly as intimidating
as it could have been had I waited to do all the fiberglass work at
once. Different strokes for different folks.
Rick Galati RV-6A FWF
For those that have been through it...if you were to do it again, would you fiberglassthe emp tips when you finish that particular kit? Or, would you waitand do it all at the same time later? I have heard that the tips can warp overtime...anyone else have that experience? What's the preferred method?Thanks,Scott7A Emp/Wingshttp://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/
---------------------------------
--0-28179566-1065138910=:82848
<DIV>
<DIV>Scott,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I worked the fiberglass components to complete each kit. There really
isn't a whole lot in the empennage kit and although overkill, I made everything
except the vertical tip removable with #4 screws and nutplates. Ditto
for the wingtips, though I got my first real taste of epoxy work when I bonded
on the optional nav night extentions and prewired/installed the nav lights.
While waiting for the engine, I got the wheel pants and gear
leg fairings done using Bob Snedacker's premade intersection fairings.
In short, I did the fiberglass in kit stages and although many other
tasks need to be done before first flight, I can say all the fiberglass work
is done, including microballooning the pin holes. Actually for me, the
greatest challenge was mating the upper and lower cowls because as mine
came in the finish kit were far from having a good fit. Lots of cutting,
bonding, and sanding there. But the ex
perience
I gained over the months working with the fiberglass components in progressively
more challenging steps paid off and that job was not nearly as intimidating
as it could have been had I waited to do all the fiberglass work at
once. Different strokes for different folks. </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Rick Galati RV-6A FWF </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE><B><PRE>
For those that have been through it...if you were to do it again, would you fiberglass
the emp tips when you finish that particular kit? Or, would you wait
and do it all at the same time later? I have heard that the tips can warp over
time...anyone else have that experience? What's the preferred method?
Thanks,
Scott
7A Emp/Wings
<A href="http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/">http://sky.prohosting.com/rv7a/</A>
</PRE></B></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV><p><hr SIZE=1>
--0-28179566-1065138910=:82848--
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: baffling question? mounting oil cooler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Phil,
I assume you mounted your oil cooler behind cyl 4 - if so I'd recommend
cutting out a gasket from the excess baffle material. Not only will this
provide an air seal but more importantly is will porvide vibration
isolation. With over 150 hours on the second rear baffle - still no cracks
in the ALu baffling.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A-
>From: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: baffling question? mounting oil cooler
>Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 18:09:33 +0100
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>
>
>Phil
>
>I finished my baffles a few days ago and was as puzzled as you are. Used
>the stiffener out of the box with the bend at 90 degrees. It all fitted
>well using the standard Vans supplied oil cooler. Can only assume the
>instructions were for an earlier iteration.
>
>Neil Henderson UK RV9 -A
>
>
><HTML><HEAD>
><META content"MSHTML 6.00.2730.1700" nameGENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Phil</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I finished my baffles a few days
>ago and was
>as puzzled as you are. Used the stiffener out of the box with the
>bend at
>90 degrees. It all fitted well using the standard Vans supplied
>oil
>cooler. Can only assume the instructions were for an earlier
>iteration.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Neil Henderson UK RV9
>-A</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: C-frame hammer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marcel" <mbourgon@elp.rr.com>
we used one of the wooden mallets from Avery and worked fine
Marcel RV-9 and 7
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Bakus" <bigblockron@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: C-frame hammer
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Bakus <bigblockron@yahoo.com>
>
> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421
>
> Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a
> C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow?
>
> thanks
> Ron
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421
>
> <DIV>
> <DIV>Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a</DIV>
> <DIV>C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow?</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>thanks</DIV>
> <DIV>Ron</DIV></DIV><BR><BR><p><hr SIZE=1>
> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421--
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
-------------------------------1065141885
Hi Jeff,
I see a lack of response on the list. (It appears most RV builders feel
Van's design is clean enough.)
Tracy Saylor mounted his transponder antenna on the bottom of the airbox in
his RV-6. I haven't seen his actual installation.
You'll want to mount it in a metal ground plane the same diameter as the
height of the antenna, and be clear of all metal protrusions to twice that
distance.
Jim Ayers
RV-4 fuselage with flush mount transponder antenna installed.
(you don't want to know.)
-------------------------------1065141885
<HTML><HEAD>
tutf-8">
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" nameGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">Hi Jeff,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">I see a lack of response on the lis=
t. (It appears most RV builders feel Van's design is clean enough.)</F=
ONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">Tracy Saylor mounted his transponder ant=
enna on the bottom of the airbox in his RV-6. I haven't seen his actua=
l installation.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">You'll want to mount it in a metal =
ground plane the same diameter as the height of the antenna, and be clear of=
all metal protrusions to twice that distance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">Jim Ayers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">RV-4 fuselage with flush mount transpond=
er antenna installed. <IMG src"http://cdn-cf.aol.com/se/smi/0201d20=
638/01"></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">(you don't want to know.)</FONT></DIV></=
BODY></HTML>
-------------------------------1065141885--
Message 26
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
Listers:
On Saturday I rode around with my friend Louis in her factory built
airplane. It has the same engine my RV-6 has. She let me fly the short leg
from Ruidoso to Alamogordo, NM. First we circled around and took pictures
of the magnificent and growing Ft. Stanton Cave, not more than a couple of
miles from the Ruidoso Airport, then we flew by Sierra Blanca Peak and over
the Mescalero Apache resort, Inn of the Mountain Gods. Things went pretty
well except for me starting the let down early because of the marked speed
difference in this airplane and the RV I am used to flying.
We had green chile cheeseburgers at the airport cafe at Alamogordo. No
sooner had we ordered when in walked ex RV-4 owner Tim. He has now traded
in for a Pitts S2B. We had a nice chat. He mentioned a recent day when he
flew his (our) F-117 in the morning, a T-38 in the early afternoon, then his
Pitts in the late afternoon. Made me think of our recent chat about what
the best group of airplanes to own, would be.
Upon my query, he opined that the T-38 is not really that fun an airplane to
fly, compare to RVs or Pitts. Guess I will mark it off my list. He said
the major deal there is the speed and aerobatics aren't that fun with about
8,000 feet being the minimum for a loop with 10,000 being more typical.
Small wing. I asked if other military pilots have any trouble riding in the
Pitts. Yep! A recent F-15 guy who took a ride had to land right off after
experiencing inverted to upright spin reversals. Tim said he cried uncle.
The mountains about 5 miles east of Alamogordo are around 10,000 feet. No
problem in the RV, but the factory plane required lots and lots of circling.
After we finally got up to 11,500 the trip home was easy.
Good trip but it left me itchy and uneasy. Early the next morning I felt an
unusual urge to fly the RV, if only for a short time. It's kind of like
appreciating your own car in a renewed way after renting something. I
noticed everything in a new way. The way it rocks as you are starting up.
The brisk acceleration on the runway and the way it springs into the air
instead of having to be pried off the runway with main force. The way it
feels alive and responds to fingertip pressures, being in the right attitude
and position without conscious thought. The way it climbs easily while
leaving the view ahead unubstructed. The way it settles unto the runway
instead of plopping on.
No doubt about it. It is profitable to, now and then at least, fly a
factory airplane. I'm just glad I don't have to settle for one anymore.
Do not archive
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
On Monday I flew across those same mountains in a P-51 going from Midland TX
to Prescott AZ. For 2+45 I was stretching fuel, looking for non-exsistant
landing spots around the big Merlin. Sitting on a parachute my butt hurt.
and knowing that much of the time there was no place to park an airplane
with a 100 kt landing speed and lousy forward visibility.
Then I rode a mini Van to PHX where I boarded a cattle car called a 757. I
was assigned a center seat, but thankfully a thoughtful flight attendant
looked at me and said, "follow me" to an asile seat.
Three hours later I was in MSP where I found my -4 waiting for me at the CAF
hanger. I climbed in my airplane, climbed to 6500 feet, turned Faith Hill
on the CD, watched the sunset and rolled my way home!!! By far the best leg
of the trip!!! I had no fear of where I would park if the fire went out.
Anywhere was my answer. What a machine, what a way to travel.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
PS if any of you are in Prescott AZ this weekend, go find the beautiful
P-51C with a Red tail look it over, then ask the pilot, "Wheres Doug?" Its
an inside joke. Thanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Pardue" <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
>
> Listers:
>
> On Saturday I rode around with my friend Louis in her factory built
> airplane. It has the same engine my RV-6 has. She let me fly the short
leg
> from Ruidoso to Alamogordo, NM. First we circled around and took pictures
> of the magnificent and growing Ft. Stanton Cave, not more than a couple of
> miles from the Ruidoso Airport, then we flew by Sierra Blanca Peak and
over
> the Mescalero Apache resort, Inn of the Mountain Gods. Things went pretty
> well except for me starting the let down early because of the marked speed
> difference in this airplane and the RV I am used to flying.
>
Snip
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: FIBERGLASS NOW OR LATER |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
>
> As far as when to do it.....doesn't really matter...Karie Daniel
>
Although it doesn't really matter when you do the fiberglass I did as much
fiberglassing as possible as a warm-up to building the canopy. Not a place
where you would tolerate rusty skills ! !
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90 plus % Complete - wiring, seats, etc.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location/start |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Well, as a matter of fact I do have an opinion on this subject.
The way I see it, you can either have the jacks located in front of you or
behind you, when you
are sitted in the cockpit.
In front of you, (in the panel itself/on a little tab under the panel/on a
side of a bulkhead, etc.) means shorter wire runs from the jacks to your
intercom/audio panel.
It also means you will have the headset wires in your way when you put on
the seatbelts or oxygen canulas/mask.
It might also interfere with getting in and/or out of the cabin, and even
with chart folding.
It is in easy reach this way, and in full sight, so when you accidentaly
pull on the headset wire, you see
what you did and can re-plug it immediately.
Behind you means the wires are out of the way.
That is a big plus.
They are also out of sight, which may or may not be a problem, I don't think
it is.
Are they within easy reach ? That is up to you.
Sit in a -7 and reach up and behind you - how far can you easily go ?
I think you will find that it is easier for the pilot to reach behind the
co-pilot seat and vice-versa. Also, If you are talking about a slider, there
is a longitudinal channel that connects the roll bar with the baggage aft
wall, just under the window. This lends itself to a cover (see Dan C's site,
very bottom of
http://www.rvproject.com/20030925.html). In this picture you can also see
where Dan has his jacks.
A little too far back for me to reach, I am putting mine in that cover
(Which is not a part of the origianl kit, but a simple addition).
I am also putting a little 12v auto light in that cover, for finding stuff
in the bag in tha baggage compartment when it's the middle of the night and
you are on the camping trip, tied down by the lake... but I degress...;)
A simple hook on each side of that channel can hold the headsets too, while
not in use. This keeps the headsets and their wires out of the way when
getting in/out of the cokpit, and does not take any space in the baggage
compartment. The only down side is longer wire runs to the radios.
I agree with you that the brace behind the seats is not an ideal place, I
think you will find that you use it to support your weight when getting
in/out of the plane. Jacks would be in the way.
Just my opinion.
AD.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Seat fabric considerations |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
Ever get a spark when you got out of your car? That spark is from you
sliding your butt across the synthetic seat fabric, building up a static
charge. Suppose you have a small fuel seep in your cockpit (my Interstate
Cadet has a nose tank the tank right above the rudder pedals & lines &
fittings in the cockpit--they have leaked a little before) & you generate a
spark. A low probability event, but why ask for trouble?
Nylon is one of the worst in terms of generating sparks (but one of the
best in terms of wear). Don't know about others, but I do know that when
we selected carpet fabric for our house there were some synthetics
available that did not generate static charges--a consideration for our
office computers.
Richard Scott
RV-9 Emp.
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: PittsS1@aol.com
wow...watta cool guy....
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">wow...watta cool guy....</FONT></HTML>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Intercom Jack Location/start |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20030925.html). In this picture you can also see
> where Dan has his jacks.
> A little too far back for me to reach, I am putting mine in that cover
> (Which is not a part of the origianl kit, but a simple addition).
The reason why I didn't choose that cover as a jack location is because I
didn't want headset plugs/wires interfering with loading and unloading
baggage, and I basically never want to unplug 'em.
I looked at recessed jacks, and in the end that channel ended up being too
narrow to do anything aesthetically and physically acceptable (to me).
FWIW, my priorities are/were:
(a) not having any cables in the cockpit if I can help it
(b) not having any interference when loading/unloading baggage
I'll have little headset hangars in two spots in the baggage area...one for
each headset high up on the baggage bulkhead, and also one for each in the
"recess" just above the flap housings on the sidewalls. That'll give me
storage options for times when I do and don't have bags/camping crap/etc.
filling up the back.
Here's a direct link to the photo Amit was referencing:
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20030925_cover_panel.jpg
There are definitely drawbacks to putting the jacks where I did...ymmv.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: PittsS1@aol.com
at least a sense of humor
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">at least a sense of humor</FONT></HTML>
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: PittsS1@aol.com
say something
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">say something</FONT></HTML>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
Actually.. I do want to know...
Nick
*** Snip ***
Jim Ayers
RV-4 fuselage with flush mount transponder antenna installed.
(you don't want to know.)
*** End snip ***
==
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
-------------------------------1065157346
In a message dated 10/02/2003 9:34:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rvator@nicknaf.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
Actually.. I do want to know...
Nick
*** Snip ***
Jim Ayers
RV-4 fuselage with flush mount transponder antenna installed.
(you don't want to know.)
*** End snip ***
I installed a MIL SPEC flush mount transponder antenna in the bottom of the
fuselage.
It requires an 8 3/8" diameter hole in the bottom fuselage skin. And the
antenna only weighs 2 3/4 pounds.
Are you sure you want to know about this?
Only one other person has been interested after the weight of the antenna and
the size of the antenna porthole was identified.
Jim Ayers
RV4 fuselage on the gear with John Harmon's mod kit
No compromise - Maximum antenna performance with no drag
Internal skin doublers based on Structural Repair Manuals from McDonnell
Douglas and Boeing.
-------------------------------1065157346
<HTML><HEAD>
tutf-8">
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" nameGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 10/02/2003 9:34:46 PM Pacific Daylight Time, rvator@=
nicknaf.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT faceArial>--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <=
;rvator@nicknaf.com><BR><BR><BR>Actually.. I do want to know... <BR>Nick<=
BR><BR>*** Snip ***<BR><BR>Jim Ayers<BR>RV-4 fuselage with flush mount trans=
ponder antenna installed. <BR>(you don't want to know.)<BR><BR>*** End=
snip ***</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">I installed a MIL SPEC flush mount trans=
ponder antenna in the bottom of the fuselage.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">It requires an 8 3/8" diameter hole in t=
he bottom fuselage skin. And the antenna only weighs 2 3/4 p=
ounds.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">Are you sure you want to know about this=
?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">Only one other person has been=
interested after the weight of the antenna and the size of the antenna=
porthole was identified.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">Jim Ayers</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">RV4 fuselage on the gear with John Harmo=
n's mod kit <IMG src"http://cdn-cf.aol.com/se/smi/0201d20638/01"></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">No compromise - Maximum antenna per=
formance with no drag</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">Internal skin doublers based on Structur=
al Repair Manuals from McDonnell Douglas and Boeing.</FONT></DIV></BODY=
></HTML>
-------------------------------1065157346--
Message 37
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| Subject: | Previously owned RV kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap@access4less.net>
There has been some discussion on the list about purchase of a partially
complete RV kit. I am looking at the possibility of purchasing an
RV6/6A kit myself. There seems to be a wide variety of levels of
completion and of completeness of the kits offered.
Has anyone on the list built an RV completely from raw material, or a
combination of Vans parts and raw stock?
What is the parts situation with Vans? Are all of the individual parts
available from them? I downloaded the parts list and there are many
major items not in the list, such as the spar or gear legs.
Information that I have indicates that the value of a partially
completed kit can vary greatly. It depends a lot on the workmanship and
the storage conditions of the material. Corrosion of unused material is
a concern.
If I were to consider a kit that was some distance from my home, would
there be a soul so kind as to inspect the kit for me. I would be
willing to offer some compensation.
Is there anyone on the list that has more information to offer me on the
subject of partially completed kits?
The subject of the Repairman Certificate has been very thoroughly
discussed so I won't go there.
Thanks to the group for a very interesting and informative list,
Lyle Peterson
lyleap@access4less.net
Minnesota
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Seat fabric considerations |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Most of us don't slide our butts across the seats in our RVs. If you
have enough fuel in the cockpit
to start a fire with a spark from your butt you have bigger problems.
Jerry
Ready to fly my RV-6 tomorrow with my new RV-9 rudder and stabilizer.
***************************
Richard Scott wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
>Ever get a spark when you got out of your car? That spark is from you
>sliding your butt across the synthetic seat fabric, building up a static
>charge. Suppose you have a small fuel seep in your cockpit (my Interstate
>Cadet has a nose tank the tank right above the rudder pedals & lines &
>fittings in the cockpit--they have leaked a little before) & you generate a
>spark. A low probability event, but why ask for trouble?
>
>Nylon is one of the worst in terms of generating sparks (but one of the
>best in terms of wear). Don't know about others, but I do know that when
>we selected carpet fabric for our house there were some synthetics
>available that did not generate static charges--a consideration for our
>office computers.
>
>Richard Scott
>RV-9 Emp.
>
>
>
>
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