Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:22 AM - Previously owned RV kits (Stucklen, Frederic IFC)
2. 04:14 AM - Re: oil door (Jerry Calvert)
3. 06:06 AM - Re: C-frame hammer (Jack Textor)
4. 06:48 AM - Re: Seat fabric considerations (David Burton)
5. 06:58 AM - Re: C-frame hammer (Phil Birkelbach)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (SportAV8R@aol.com)
7. 07:51 AM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? ()
8. 09:37 AM - Paint adhesion over cured paint (JhnstnIII@aol.com)
9. 10:11 AM - Re: Paint adhesion over cured paint (Scott Bilinski)
10. 12:16 PM - 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (DJB6A@cs.com)
11. 12:28 PM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (C. Rabaut)
12. 12:56 PM - Re: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (Sam Buchanan)
13. 01:09 PM - Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Geoff Evans)
14. 01:50 PM - Vans gauge lamps (Mark Phillips)
15. 02:04 PM - Re: C-frame hammer (Richard Lundin)
16. 02:35 PM - Re: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (Gil Alexander)
17. 02:48 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Gert)
18. 02:54 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Randy Lervold)
19. 02:57 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Evan and Megan Johnson)
20. 03:02 PM - Re: Vans gauge lamps (Elsa & Henry)
21. 04:22 PM - Heated Paint Booth (Duane Bentley)
22. 04:33 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Pieper_Frank)
23. 04:35 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Pieper_Frank)
24. 06:11 PM - Re: oil door (RV6AOKC@aol.com)
25. 06:49 PM - Re: oil door (Jim Jewell)
26. 07:20 PM - Re: Previously owned RV kits (Jeff Dowling)
27. 08:07 PM - Re: Vans gauge lamps (Ernest Kells)
28. 08:56 PM - Re: Manual elevator trim placard (Jerry)
29. 09:21 PM - Duckworks landing light puzzle (Larry Bowen)
30. 09:40 PM - Re: Heated Paint Booth (Jim Oke)
31. 09:53 PM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
32. 10:29 PM - Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle (Bruce Gray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Previously owned RV kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Lyle,
I've just completed my second RV-6A. This kit was purchased from another
builder whom had experienced a coast to coast job transfer, and was unable
to complete it's construction. In my case, the horizontal stab was not
closed up, so I was able to inspect all of his work.
Since this is usually the first component to be fabricated, it's a good
place to inspect for the workmanship of a first time builder. In the kits
I've inspected over the years, I've seen the full range of good, bad, &
ugly. Personally, if the visible outside workmanship of a closed up part is
suspect, I would have a hard time justifying the quality of the inside
construction.
That all said, I'm available on the East Coast if you need any inspections
performed on kits that you might find. Contact me off the list....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 55 Hours
Hm email: wstucklen1@cox.net
Wk Email: fred.stucklen@utcfuelcells.com
--> RV-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson" <lyleap@access4less.net
<mailto:lyleap@access4less.net>
> There has been some discussion on the list about purchase of a partially
complete RV kit. I am looking at the possibility of purchasing an RV6/6A kit
myself. There seems to be a wide variety of levels of completion and of
completeness of the kits offered. Has anyone on the list built an RV
completely from raw material, or a combination of Vans parts and raw stock?
What is the parts situation with Vans? Are all of the individual parts
available from them? I downloaded the parts list and there are many major
items not in the list, such as the spar or gear legs. Information that I
have indicates that the value of a partially completed kit can vary greatly.
It depends a lot on the workmanship and the storage conditions of the
material. Corrosion of unused material is a concern. If I were to consider a
kit that was some distance from my home, would there be a soul so kind as to
inspect the kit for me. I would be willing to offer some compensation. Is
there anyone on the list that has more information to offer me on the
subject of partially completed kits? The subject of the Repairman
Certificate has been very thoroughly discussed so I won't go there. Thanks
to the group for a very interesting and informative list,
Lyle Peterson lyleap@access4less.net Minnesota
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
I have submitted some pictures to the photoshare that should appear in a few
days.
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok
RV6 N296JC res
----- Original Message -----
From: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: oil door
> --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
> I want to install the flush type of latch
> on the Oil inspection, door..
>
> Does any one has pictures of this installation,
> I could see, as to how build up the underneath portion
> etc...
>
> Thanks for any help on this..
>
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> REady for wings soon..
>
> Do Not archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Textor" <jack@personnelincorporated.com>
Ron I bought a dead blow at Harbor Freight which has a brass head on one
side and plastic on the other. I use the brass side and it works great.
Jack
RV8
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Seat fabric considerations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> Ready to fly my RV-6 tomorrow with my new RV-9 rudder and stabilizer.
> Jerry
Hey Jerry,
Looking for a little more crosswind rudder authority? :-)
Let us know what the differences are...
Dave
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: C-frame hammer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" <phil@petrasoft.net>
I've pounded on mine a lot with the plastic hammer from Avery. It works
really well. Whatever you choose don't use a metal hammer. The C-frame
arbor is hardened and hitting hardened steel with another piece of hardened
steel is a no-no.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy
http://www.myrv7.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Bakus" <bigblockron@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: C-frame hammer
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Bakus <bigblockron@yahoo.com>
>
> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421
>
> Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a
> C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow?
>
> thanks
> Ron
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Search archives for "wheelpant transponder antenna"
I am quite happy with my invisible no-drag XPDR installation excepot when for
some reason I want to fly with the wheelpants removed, which is not very often.
Something to consider.
-Bill B
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
I too contemplated placing the transponder antenna underneath the cowl,
but worried about the radiation pattern towards the rear being blocked by
the firewall.
Instead I mounted it on the forward bottom fuselage skin as close to the
battery box/firewall intersection as possible. This places it in the
lower cowl scoop cross section about 1" from the exit, out of the main
airflow, about 3" away from the exhaust pipe, with easy cable hookup.
No interference problems to date (either physical, xpndr signoff, or ATC
xpndr checks).
PS if you have an external comm antenna, try not to mount it near the fuse
centerline. Oil and exhaust make quite a mess of it <g>.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Paint adhesion over cured paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com
Listers--Does anyone have experience with either clear Imron or clear Polane
adhesion when applied over cured (eg 2 months or more) Imron or Polane and the
surface not roughed up first. I know this is not recommended. Checked the
archives and nothing there. Haven't done it yet, but for reasons I won't go
into here, I may have to on the panel. Thanks in advance. --LeRoy Johnston in
Ohio.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Paint adhesion over cured paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Call the applicable tech line. I have found them to be a wealth of info.
You would be surprised how much info is not printed. Some times you need to
push them out of the "box" to get them to think about what you need.
At 12:36 PM 10/3/03 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com
>
>Listers--Does anyone have experience with either clear Imron or clear Polane
>adhesion when applied over cured (eg 2 months or more) Imron or Polane and
the
>surface not roughed up first. I know this is not recommended. Checked the
>archives and nothing there. Haven't done it yet, but for reasons I won't go
>into here, I may have to on the panel. Thanks in advance. --LeRoy
Johnston in
>Ohio.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 10
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| Subject: | 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
To all,
For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge
shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has
special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the
catalogue.
They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there is
a demand for it.
Regards,
Dave Burnham
RV6A (N64FN)
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">To all,<BR>
<BR>
For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge=20=
shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has=
special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the cat=
alogue. <BR>
They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there i=
s a demand for it.<BR>
<BR>
Regards,<BR>
Dave Burnham<BR>
RV6A (N64FN)</FONT></HTML>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Jim,
Whatcha' buildin'.... an RV-4 that will pull +10/-10 G's ????
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066@aol.com>
>
> Jim Ayers
> RV4 fuselage on the gear with John Harmon's mod kit
> No compromise - Maximum antenna performance with no drag
> Internal skin doublers based on Structural Repair Manuals from McDonnell
> Douglas and Boeing.
>
> -------------------------------1065157346
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
DJB6A@cs.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
>
> To all,
>
> For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge
> shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has
> special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the
> catalogue.
> They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there is
> a demand for it.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Burnham
> RV6A (N64FN)
Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I found a
nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g shielded cable for
$0.45/ft.
Sam Buchanan
Message 13
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| Subject: | Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates and
fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the
inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus seems
to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and moderately
easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be.
I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in
place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove later
if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard
socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, but
the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive.
Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed
with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one
message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in
several years.
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
Message 14
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| Subject: | Vans gauge lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Attempting to achieve a total-LED panel, I am trying to convert
(pervert?) Vans fuel gauges to accept LEDs without much success.
Problem is the lamps must radiate 360 degrees around the axis of the
lamp holder to do much good. Has anyone experimented with using
diffuse-lense high intensity red LEDs for this? Any thoughts on if it
would even work?
Also broke one of the standard lamps disassembling & see no mention of
replacement lamps in Vans online catalog or anywhere else that might be
compatible- do these things last forever? Where can I get a
replacement?
Thanks
Mark - 6A, wiring "almost" done! do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: C-frame hammer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
I'm currently using a dead blow hammer. Works great,
and is easy on my elbow and wrist.
Rick
--- Ron Bakus <bigblockron@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Bakus
> <bigblockron@yahoo.com>
>
> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421
>
> Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a
> C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow?
>
> thanks
> Ron
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421
>
> <DIV>
> <DIV>Can any one tell me which hammer works better
> with a</DIV>
> <DIV>C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead
> blow?</DIV>
> <DIV> </DIV>
> <DIV>thanks</DIV>
> <DIV>Ron</DIV></DIV><BR><BR><p><hr SIZE=1>
> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421--
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Also at 0.21 per foot from these guys....
http://www.action-electronics.com/cabl-prc.htm#Shielded
At 02:55 PM 10/3/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
>DJB6A@cs.com wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
> >
> > To all,
> >
> > For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge
> > shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks
> aircraft has
> > special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the
> > catalogue.
> > They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if
> there is
> > a demand for it.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Dave Burnham
> > RV6A (N64FN)
>
>
>Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I found a
>nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g shielded cable for
>$0.45/ft.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
<html>
<font size=3>Also at 0.21 per foot from these guys....<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.action-electronics.com/cabl-prc.htm#Shielded" eudora="autourl">http://www.action-electronics.com/cabl-prc.htm#</a><a href="http://www.action-electronics.com/cabl-prc.htm#Shielded" eudora="autourl">Shielded<br>
<br>
</a>At 02:55 PM 10/3/2003 -0500, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>--> RV-List message posted by:
Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net><br>
<br>
<br>
DJB6A@cs.com wrote:<br>
> <br>
> --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com<br>
> <br>
> To all,<br>
> <br>
> For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor
22 gauge<br>
> shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks
aircraft has<br>
> special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in
the<br>
> catalogue.<br>
> They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if
there is<br>
> a demand for it.<br>
> <br>
> Regards,<br>
> Dave Burnham<br>
> RV6A (N64FN)<br>
<br>
<br>
Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I found a<br>
nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g shielded cable for<br>
$0.45/ft.<br>
<br>
Sam Buchanan<br>
<br>
<br>
- The RV-List Email Forum -<br>
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Geoff
Don't know if that was my message, but I had problems with inconsistent
readings because there was no good ground contact between the sender and
the tank, I drilled and tapped a small hole in the sender base for a
dedicated small ground strap.
I wonder sometimes if tank error readins sometimes are the result of
this but blamed on sender and/or gauge.
Gert
Geoff Evans wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
> After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates and
> fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the
> inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus seems
> to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and moderately
> easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be.
>
> I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in
> place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove later
> if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard
> socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, but
> the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive.
>
> Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed
> with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one
> message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in
> several years.
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
>
> RV-8 QB
>
> __________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates
and
> fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the
> inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus
seems
> to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and
moderately
> easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be.
>
> I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in
> place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove
later
> if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard
> socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench,
but
> the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive.
>
> Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when
sealed
> with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one
> message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in
> several years.
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB
My covers are ProSealed with hex head screws exactly as you describe. 356
hours with no grounding problems whatsoever, and I've removed each one for
sender replacements, not really a big deal. For details see...
http://www.rv-8.com/Wings.htm
While button heads will work, spend the $ for the socket heads... less
fragile.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-8.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
OK I gotta chime in here....I have been trying to stay quiet on the subject
but I think you are making a mistake. I have had to remove a bunch of the
inspection plates that have been glued on and it is often a real headache.
Proseal is a very effective glue....even if the plate comes off easy you
will have to razor blade the sealant off of the tank and the plate and you
will score the crap out of both surfaces. I have had the plate stuck on
there so hard that I ruined it trying to remove it. I also know a guy who
punched a hole in the end rib trying to pry the plate up. It can be a real
bear of a job. If you dont trust the gaskets then put them on dry and then
put a fillet of sealant around the plate. Same thing goes for the
screws...keeping the sealant out of the screw heads. Also if you are going
to substitue different screws be careful. The ones Vans send are very soft
and do strip out real easy...but for a good reason. It is a lot easier to
get another screw than to replace a stripped nutplate. Trust me on this, I
have handled a lot of tanks. :)
Evan
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Evans" <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders
> --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
> After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates
and
> fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the
> inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus
seems
> to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and
moderately
> easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be.
>
> I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in
> place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove
later
> if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard
> socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench,
but
> the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive.
>
> Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when
sealed
> with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one
> message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in
> several years.
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
>
> RV-8 QB
>
> __________________________________
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Vans gauge lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Mark,
I recently had a requirement for a special lamp, and found what I was
looking for by doing a Google search on Miniature lamps. The entire GE
catalogue is listed (PDF file) and also aviation vendors.
Good luck. Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Heated Paint Booth |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
I'm close to painting my RV6. One option I'm considering is an offer
from a good friend who is an excellent professional painter for the last
25 year, at a large auto body shop near me. Obviously I'd have the
wings and fuselage (with empennage installed) done in pieces prior to
assembly.
In going through the painting process review with him, he discussed the
auto painting and the 10-20 minute "bake" they do on automobiles after
each stage. Although I'd take the slider canopy off and paint it
separately (air cure?), I'm unsure about subjecting the fuselage to a
quick heat cycle with the plexiglass windscreen. The instruments in the
panel are also a concern, although obviously cars go through this with
all their plastic parts and nothing melts. My painter says we could
skip the bake, but it would take a good deal longer to dry. I don't
know how hot it gets in the booth; I'd guess at least 110 degrees maybe
more. My concern would be how rapidly the temperature came up. He says
he can change the temperature rate as well if that is a problem.
I know that Eustace Bowhay talked about painting his next RV in pieces
and then assembling it. Has anyone had experience with a heated
professional paint booth.
Thanks
Duane Bentley
RV6 Finishing
West Chester, OH
<html>
<head>
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<body langEN-US linkblue vlinkpurple>
<div classSection1>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>I’m close to painting my
RV6.
One option I’m considering is an offer from a good friend who is
an
excellent professional painter for the last 25 year, at a large auto
body shop
near me. Obviously I’d have the wings and fuselage (with
empennage installed)
done in pieces prior to assembly. </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>In going through the painting
process
review with him, he discussed the auto painting and the 10-20 minute
“bake” they do on automobiles after each stage.
Although
I’d take the slider canopy off and paint it separately (air
cure?),
I’m unsure about subjecting the fuselage to a quick heat cycle
with the
plexiglass windscreen. The instruments in the panel are also a
concern,
although obviously cars go through this with all their plastic parts and
nothing melts. My painter says we could skip the bake, but it
would take
a good deal longer to dry. I don’t know how hot it gets in
the
booth; I’d guess at least 110 degrees maybe more. My concern
would
be how rapidly the temperature came up. He says he can change the
temperature rate as well if that is a problem.</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>I know that Eustace Bowhay talked
about
painting his next RV in pieces and then assembling it. Has anyone
had
experience with a heated professional paint booth.</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Thanks</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Duane Bentley</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>RV6 Finishing</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>West Chester, OH</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
</div>
</body>
</html>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pieper_Frank" <Pieper_Frank@asdk12.org>
UnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribe
> ----------
> From: Gert
> Reply To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, October 3, 2003 2:47 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders
>
> Unsubscribe--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
>
> Geoff
>
> Don't know if that was my message, but I had problems with inconsistent
> readings because there was no good ground contact between the sender and
> the tank, I drilled and tapped a small hole in the sender base for a
> dedicated small ground strap.
>
> I wonder sometimes if tank error readins sometimes are the result of
> this but blamed on sender and/or gauge.
>
> Gert
>
> Geoff Evans wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
> >
> > After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates and
> > fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the
> > inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus seems
> > to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and moderately
> > easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be.
> >
> > I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in
> > place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove later
> > if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard
> > socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, but
> > the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive.
> >
> > Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed
> > with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one
> > message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in
> > several years.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > -Geoff
> >
> > RV-8 QB
> >
> > __________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pieper_Frank" <Pieper_Frank@asdk12.org>
UnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribe
> ----------
> From: Evan and Megan Johnson
> Reply To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Friday, October 3, 2003 2:59 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> OK I gotta chime in here....I have been trying to stay quiet on the subject
> but I think you are making a mistake. I have had to remove a bunch of the
> inspection plates that have been glued on and it is often a real headache.
> Proseal is a very effective glue....even if the plate comes off easy you
> will have to razor blade the sealant off of the tank and the plate and you
> will score the crap out of both surfaces. I have had the plate stuck on
> there so hard that I ruined it trying to remove it. I also know a guy who
> punched a hole in the end rib trying to pry the plate up. It can be a real
> bear of a job. If you dont trust the gaskets then put them on dry and then
> put a fillet of sealant around the plate. Same thing goes for the
> screws...keeping the sealant out of the screw heads. Also if you are going
> to substitue different screws be careful. The ones Vans send are very soft
> and do strip out real easy...but for a good reason. It is a lot easier to
> get another screw than to replace a stripped nutplate. Trust me on this, I
> have handled a lot of tanks. :)
>
> Evan
> www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Geoff Evans" <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
> To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
> >
> > After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates
> and
> > fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the
> > inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus
> seems
> > to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and
> moderately
> > easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be.
> >
> > I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in
> > place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove
> later
> > if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard
> > socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench,
> but
> > the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive.
> >
> > Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when
> sealed
> > with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one
> > message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in
> > several years.
> >
> > Thanks.
> > -Geoff
> >
> > RV-8 QB
> >
> > __________________________________
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
speaking of oil doors....anyone have ideas on how to cut the door out from
the top cowl...Im a little leary of attacking it with my dremel...there must be
a better way to get a nice cut....im afraid Im going to skip the disk all over
the place....
kurt in okc....
do not archive
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Kurt,
If you use a diamond cutting blade made for the dremel tool types. You
should find it very easy to control.
The blades I found are about 1" in diameter and very thin. They cut
fiberglass like its butter. They also come in a larger diameter, about 2.5".
They can be mounted on same shaft used for the cut off stones. I think
Dremel sells the small diameter diamond cutters already mounted on a 1/8"
shaft, Price wise you might say they give you the shaft....(:-)!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <RV6AOKC@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: oil door
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com
>
> speaking of oil doors....anyone have ideas on how to cut the door out from
> the top cowl...Im a little leary of attacking it with my dremel...there
must be
> a better way to get a nice cut....im afraid Im going to skip the disk all
over
> the place....
>
> kurt in okc....
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Previously owned RV kits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Im nearing completion of a 6a that was started 14 years ago. I bought it
partially completed from a previous owner. I am very fortunate to have
found some local builders with a ton of experience, especially in RV's. In
finishing the kit, we have found some very serious problems. The empennage
attach bolts missed the longerons, the rudder would not attach to the vs
without serious bending, the wings were ridiculously tight, ailerons mounted
too high.......
As you can tell, there were plenty of mistakes that I dont think I would
have caught without the help from others. One of these may have caused a
fatal accident. It definitely made me think. I just hope we caught them
all.
Now, with that being said, I still am glad with my purchase. I'll have the
plane flying in much less time and with less money than if I bought it new.
Even with the problems, if you're careful enough with your purchase and
subsequent inspections, I believe you can make buying a partial kit a great
deal. If you have to tear some parts open to inspect, you'll still be time
well ahead than starting from scratch. I cant stress enough to try and find
some experienced RV builder(s) to help you inspect every piece. Then get
busy finishing.
Good luck
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A almost
Chicago/Louisville
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Vans gauge lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
> Also broke one of the standard lamps disassembling & see no mention of
> replacement lamps in Vans online catalog or anywhere else that might be
> compatible- do these things last forever? Where can I get a
> replacement? Thanks Mark - 6A, wiring "almost" done! do not archive
>
Mark:
Replacement Lamps are available in the on-line Catalogue under
"Miscellaneous Items".
IE IEV 12V LAMP Vans gauge replacement lamp $1.90 ea.
Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop
90 plus % Complete - seats and Misc.
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Manual elevator trim placard |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" <jdoyal@sport.rr.com>
How about an update and some pictures Pete?
Jerry Doyal
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Delee & Pete
Subject: RV-List: Manual elevator trim placard
--> RV-List message posted by: "Delee & Pete" <4680@comcast.net>
I am looking for a source for a placard for my manual elevator trim.
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" nameGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD> <BODY bgColor#ffffff> <DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I am looking
for a source for a placard for my manual elevator
trim.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report
==
==
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Duckworks landing light puzzle |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't
get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is done
first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the solution to this
puzzle??
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Heated Paint Booth |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
If you have an offer from a professional painter with professional
facilities at hand, then take it! The "Do it yourself" alternative will
consume a surprising amount of time and personal effort.
As far as the "bake" goes, it sounds no worse than parking the airplane on a
typical concrete ramp in the US southwest on most any summer day. A nice
slow warm up and cool down would be preferred to ensure even heating/cooling
and so reduce differential expansion. Perhaps try and get some actual
temperatures involved to see what really happens in the paint booth.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
Subject: RV-List: Heated Paint Booth
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
>
>
> I'm close to painting my RV6. One option I'm considering is an offer
> from a good friend who is an excellent professional painter for the last
> 25 year, at a large auto body shop near me. Obviously I'd have the
> wings and fuselage (with empennage installed) done in pieces prior to
> assembly.
>
>
> In going through the painting process review with him, he discussed the
> auto painting and the 10-20 minute "bake" they do on automobiles after
> each stage. Although I'd take the slider canopy off and paint it
> separately (air cure?), I'm unsure about subjecting the fuselage to a
> quick heat cycle with the plexiglass windscreen. The instruments in the
> panel are also a concern, although obviously cars go through this with
> all their plastic parts and nothing melts. My painter says we could
> skip the bake, but it would take a good deal longer to dry. I don't
> know how hot it gets in the booth; I'd guess at least 110 degrees maybe
> more. My concern would be how rapidly the temperature came up. He says
> he can change the temperature rate as well if that is a problem.
>
>
> I know that Eustace Bowhay talked about painting his next RV in pieces
> and then assembling it. Has anyone had experience with a heated
> professional paint booth.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Duane Bentley
>
>
> RV6 Finishing
>
>
> West Chester, OH
>
>
> <html>
>
> <head>
>
>
> <meta nameGenerator content"Microsoft Word 10 (filtered)">
>
> <style>
> <!--
> /* Style Definitions */
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> {page:Section1;}
> -->
> </style>
>
> </head>
>
> <body langEN-US linkblue vlinkpurple>
>
> <div classSection1>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>I’m close to painting my
> RV6.
> One option I’m considering is an offer from a good friend who is
> an
> excellent professional painter for the last 25 year, at a large auto
> body shop
> near me. Obviously I’d have the wings and fuselage (with
> empennage installed)
> done in pieces prior to assembly. </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>In going through the painting
> process
> review with him, he discussed the auto painting and the 10-20 minute
> “bake” they do on automobiles after each stage.
> Although
> I’d take the slider canopy off and paint it separately (air
> cure?),
> I’m unsure about subjecting the fuselage to a quick heat cycle
> with the
> plexiglass windscreen. The instruments in the panel are also a
> concern,
> although obviously cars go through this with all their plastic parts and
> nothing melts. My painter says we could skip the bake, but it
> would take
> a good deal longer to dry. I don’t know how hot it gets in
> the
> booth; I’d guess at least 110 degrees maybe more. My concern
> would
> be how rapidly the temperature came up. He says he can change the
> temperature rate as well if that is a problem.</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>I know that Eustace Bowhay talked
> about
> painting his next RV in pieces and then assembling it. Has anyone
> had
> experience with a heated professional paint booth.</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Thanks</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Duane Bentley</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>RV6 Finishing</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>West Chester, OH</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 colorblack faceArial><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> </span></font></p>
>
> </div>
>
> </body>
>
> </html>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
-------------------------------1065243166
In a message dated 10/03/2003 12:29:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
crabaut@coalinga.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Jim,
Whatcha' buildin'.... an RV-4 that will pull +10/-10 G's ????
Chuck
No,
I just want to be able to reach Vne in level flight. Where Vne = 270 mph.
Jim Ayers
-------------------------------1065243166
<HTML><HEAD>
tutf-8">
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" nameGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 10/03/2003 12:29:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, crabau=
t@coalinga.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT faceArial>--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"=20=
<crabaut@coalinga.com><BR><BR>Jim,<BR><BR> Whatcha' build=
in'.... an RV-4 that will pull +10/-10 G's ????<BR><BR> &=
nbsp; Chuck</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">No,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">I just want to be able to reach Vne in l=
evel flight. Where Vne 270 mph. <IMG src"http://cdn-cf.ao=
l.com/se/smi/0201d20638/01"></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman"></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Times New Roman">Jim Ayers</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-------------------------------1065243166--
Message 32
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| Subject: | Duckworks landing light puzzle |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Duct tape! (sorry, coundn't resist)
Bruce
www.glasair.org
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't
get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is done
first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the solution to this
puzzle??
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
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