---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 10/03/03: 32 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 03:22 AM - Previously owned RV kits (Stucklen, Frederic IFC) 2. 04:14 AM - Re: oil door (Jerry Calvert) 3. 06:06 AM - Re: C-frame hammer (Jack Textor) 4. 06:48 AM - Re: Seat fabric considerations (David Burton) 5. 06:58 AM - Re: C-frame hammer (Phil Birkelbach) 6. 06:59 AM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (SportAV8R@aol.com) 7. 07:51 AM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? () 8. 09:37 AM - Paint adhesion over cured paint (JhnstnIII@aol.com) 9. 10:11 AM - Re: Paint adhesion over cured paint (Scott Bilinski) 10. 12:16 PM - 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (DJB6A@cs.com) 11. 12:28 PM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (C. Rabaut) 12. 12:56 PM - Re: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (Sam Buchanan) 13. 01:09 PM - Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Geoff Evans) 14. 01:50 PM - Vans gauge lamps (Mark Phillips) 15. 02:04 PM - Re: C-frame hammer (Richard Lundin) 16. 02:35 PM - Re: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon (Gil Alexander) 17. 02:48 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Gert) 18. 02:54 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Randy Lervold) 19. 02:57 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Evan and Megan Johnson) 20. 03:02 PM - Re: Vans gauge lamps (Elsa & Henry) 21. 04:22 PM - Heated Paint Booth (Duane Bentley) 22. 04:33 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Pieper_Frank) 23. 04:35 PM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Pieper_Frank) 24. 06:11 PM - Re: oil door (RV6AOKC@aol.com) 25. 06:49 PM - Re: oil door (Jim Jewell) 26. 07:20 PM - Re: Previously owned RV kits (Jeff Dowling) 27. 08:07 PM - Re: Vans gauge lamps (Ernest Kells) 28. 08:56 PM - Re: Manual elevator trim placard (Jerry) 29. 09:21 PM - Duckworks landing light puzzle (Larry Bowen) 30. 09:40 PM - Re: Heated Paint Booth (Jim Oke) 31. 09:53 PM - Re: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? (LeastDrag93066@aol.com) 32. 10:29 PM - Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle (Bruce Gray) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 03:22:51 AM PST US From: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" Subject: RV-List: Previously owned RV kits --> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic IFC" Lyle, I've just completed my second RV-6A. This kit was purchased from another builder whom had experienced a coast to coast job transfer, and was unable to complete it's construction. In my case, the horizontal stab was not closed up, so I was able to inspect all of his work. Since this is usually the first component to be fabricated, it's a good place to inspect for the workmanship of a first time builder. In the kits I've inspected over the years, I've seen the full range of good, bad, & ugly. Personally, if the visible outside workmanship of a closed up part is suspect, I would have a hard time justifying the quality of the inside construction. That all said, I'm available on the East Coast if you need any inspections performed on kits that you might find. Contact me off the list.... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV 55 Hours Hm email: wstucklen1@cox.net Wk Email: fred.stucklen@utcfuelcells.com --> RV-List message posted by: "Lyle Peterson" > There has been some discussion on the list about purchase of a partially complete RV kit. I am looking at the possibility of purchasing an RV6/6A kit myself. There seems to be a wide variety of levels of completion and of completeness of the kits offered. Has anyone on the list built an RV completely from raw material, or a combination of Vans parts and raw stock? What is the parts situation with Vans? Are all of the individual parts available from them? I downloaded the parts list and there are many major items not in the list, such as the spar or gear legs. Information that I have indicates that the value of a partially completed kit can vary greatly. It depends a lot on the workmanship and the storage conditions of the material. Corrosion of unused material is a concern. If I were to consider a kit that was some distance from my home, would there be a soul so kind as to inspect the kit for me. I would be willing to offer some compensation. Is there anyone on the list that has more information to offer me on the subject of partially completed kits? The subject of the Repairman Certificate has been very thoroughly discussed so I won't go there. Thanks to the group for a very interesting and informative list, Lyle Peterson lyleap@access4less.net Minnesota ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:14:20 AM PST US From: "Jerry Calvert" Subject: Re: RV-List: oil door --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" I have submitted some pictures to the photoshare that should appear in a few days. Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC res ----- Original Message ----- From: " bert murillo" Subject: RV-List: oil door > --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" > > Hi: > > I want to install the flush type of latch > on the Oil inspection, door.. > > Does any one has pictures of this installation, > I could see, as to how build up the underneath portion > etc... > > Thanks for any help on this.. > > > Bert > > rv6a > > REady for wings soon.. > > Do Not archive > > Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:06:22 AM PST US From: "Jack Textor" Subject: RE: RV-List: C-frame hammer --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Textor" Ron I bought a dead blow at Harbor Freight which has a brass head on one side and plastic on the other. I use the brass side and it works great. Jack RV8 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:48:03 AM PST US From: "David Burton" Subject: Re: RV-List: Seat fabric considerations --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" > Ready to fly my RV-6 tomorrow with my new RV-9 rudder and stabilizer. > Jerry Hey Jerry, Looking for a little more crosswind rudder authority? :-) Let us know what the differences are... Dave ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:58:13 AM PST US From: "Phil Birkelbach" Subject: Re: RV-List: C-frame hammer --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Birkelbach" I've pounded on mine a lot with the plastic hammer from Avery. It works really well. Whatever you choose don't use a metal hammer. The C-frame arbor is hardened and hitting hardened steel with another piece of hardened steel is a no-no. Godspeed, Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas RV-7 N727WB (Reserved) - Canopy http://www.myrv7.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Bakus" Subject: RV-List: C-frame hammer > --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Bakus > > --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421 > > Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a > C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow? > > thanks > Ron > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:59:35 AM PST US From: SportAV8R@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com Search archives for "wheelpant transponder antenna" I am quite happy with my invisible no-drag XPDR installation excepot when for some reason I want to fly with the wheelpants removed, which is not very often. Something to consider. -Bill B do not archive ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:51:16 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? From: --> RV-List message posted by: I too contemplated placing the transponder antenna underneath the cowl, but worried about the radiation pattern towards the rear being blocked by the firewall. Instead I mounted it on the forward bottom fuselage skin as close to the battery box/firewall intersection as possible. This places it in the lower cowl scoop cross section about 1" from the exit, out of the main airflow, about 3" away from the exhaust pipe, with easy cable hookup. No interference problems to date (either physical, xpndr signoff, or ATC xpndr checks). PS if you have an external comm antenna, try not to mount it near the fuse centerline. Oil and exhaust make quite a mess of it . Rob Acker (RV-6 flying) do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:37:47 AM PST US From: JhnstnIII@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Paint adhesion over cured paint --> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com Listers--Does anyone have experience with either clear Imron or clear Polane adhesion when applied over cured (eg 2 months or more) Imron or Polane and the surface not roughed up first. I know this is not recommended. Checked the archives and nothing there. Haven't done it yet, but for reasons I won't go into here, I may have to on the panel. Thanks in advance. --LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:11:40 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Paint adhesion over cured paint --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski Call the applicable tech line. I have found them to be a wealth of info. You would be surprised how much info is not printed. Some times you need to push them out of the "box" to get them to think about what you need. At 12:36 PM 10/3/03 -0400, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: JhnstnIII@aol.com > >Listers--Does anyone have experience with either clear Imron or clear Polane >adhesion when applied over cured (eg 2 months or more) Imron or Polane and the >surface not roughed up first. I know this is not recommended. Checked the >archives and nothing there. Haven't done it yet, but for reasons I won't go >into here, I may have to on the panel. Thanks in advance. --LeRoy Johnston in >Ohio. > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:16:38 PM PST US From: DJB6A@cs.com Subject: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com To all, For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the catalogue. They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there is a demand for it. Regards, Dave Burnham RV6A (N64FN) To all,

For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge=20= shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has= special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the cat= alogue.
They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there i= s a demand for it.

Regards,
Dave Burnham
RV6A (N64FN) ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 12:28:39 PM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Jim, Whatcha' buildin'.... an RV-4 that will pull +10/-10 G's ???? Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: > > Jim Ayers > RV4 fuselage on the gear with John Harmon's mod kit > No compromise - Maximum antenna performance with no drag > Internal skin doublers based on Structural Repair Manuals from McDonnell > Douglas and Boeing. > > -------------------------------1065157346 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:56:00 PM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan DJB6A@cs.com wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com > > To all, > > For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge > shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has > special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the > catalogue. > They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there is > a demand for it. > > Regards, > Dave Burnham > RV6A (N64FN) Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I found a nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g shielded cable for $0.45/ft. Sam Buchanan ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:09:47 PM PST US From: Geoff Evans Subject: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates and fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus seems to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and moderately easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be. I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove later if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, but the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive. Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in several years. Thanks. -Geoff RV-8 QB __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:50:32 PM PST US From: Mark Phillips Subject: RV-List: Vans gauge lamps --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips Attempting to achieve a total-LED panel, I am trying to convert (pervert?) Vans fuel gauges to accept LEDs without much success. Problem is the lamps must radiate 360 degrees around the axis of the lamp holder to do much good. Has anyone experimented with using diffuse-lense high intensity red LEDs for this? Any thoughts on if it would even work? Also broke one of the standard lamps disassembling & see no mention of replacement lamps in Vans online catalog or anywhere else that might be compatible- do these things last forever? Where can I get a replacement? Thanks Mark - 6A, wiring "almost" done! do not archive ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:04:53 PM PST US From: Richard Lundin Subject: Re: RV-List: C-frame hammer --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin I'm currently using a dead blow hammer. Works great, and is easy on my elbow and wrist. Rick --- Ron Bakus wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Bakus > > > --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421 > > Can any one tell me which hammer works better with a > C-Frame dimpler, hard plastic or a dead blow? > > thanks > Ron > > > --------------------------------- > --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421 > >
>
Can any one tell me which hammer works better > with a
>
C-Frame dimpler,  hard plastic or a dead > blow?
>
 
>
thanks
>
Ron


> --0-496134999-1065131975=:54421-- > > > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report > > > > > __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:35:03 PM PST US From: Gil Alexander Subject: Re: RV-List: 4 conductor shielded wire for Dynon --> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander Also at 0.21 per foot from these guys.... http://www.action-electronics.com/cabl-prc.htm#Shielded At 02:55 PM 10/3/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan > > >DJB6A@cs.com wrote: > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com > > > > To all, > > > > For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge > > shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks > aircraft has > > special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the > > catalogue. > > They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if > there is > > a demand for it. > > > > Regards, > > Dave Burnham > > RV6A (N64FN) > > >Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I found a >nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g shielded cable for >$0.45/ft. > >Sam Buchanan > > Also at 0.21  per foot from these guys....

http://www.action-electronics.com/cabl-prc.htm#Shielded

At 02:55 PM 10/3/2003 -0500, you wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>


DJB6A@cs.com wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: DJB6A@cs.com
>
> To all,
>
> For those of you (like me) who have been searching for 4 conductor 22 gauge
> shielded wire for your remote mounted Dynon Magnetometer, Wicks aircraft has
> special ordered 500 ft. You will need to let them know it is not in the
> catalogue.
> They expect it in next week. They will add it as a permanent item if there is
> a demand for it.
>
> Regards,
> Dave Burnham
> RV6A (N64FN)


Be sure you check your local electrical cable suppliers. I found a
nearby outlet that had the four conductor 22g shielded cable for
$0.45/ft.

Sam Buchanan


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________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 02:48:48 PM PST US From: Gert Subject: Re: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders --> RV-List message posted by: Gert Geoff Don't know if that was my message, but I had problems with inconsistent readings because there was no good ground contact between the sender and the tank, I drilled and tapped a small hole in the sender base for a dedicated small ground strap. I wonder sometimes if tank error readins sometimes are the result of this but blamed on sender and/or gauge. Gert Geoff Evans wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans > > After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates and > fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the > inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus seems > to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and moderately > easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be. > > I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in > place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove later > if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard > socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, but > the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive. > > Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed > with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one > message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in > several years. > > Thanks. > -Geoff > > RV-8 QB > > __________________________________ > > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:54:52 PM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates and > fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the > inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus seems > to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and moderately > easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be. > > I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in > place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove later > if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard > socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, but > the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive. > > Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed > with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one > message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in > several years. > > Thanks. > -Geoff > RV-8 QB My covers are ProSealed with hex head screws exactly as you describe. 356 hours with no grounding problems whatsoever, and I've removed each one for sender replacements, not really a big deal. For details see... http://www.rv-8.com/Wings.htm While button heads will work, spend the $ for the socket heads... less fragile. Randy Lervold www.rv-8.com ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 02:57:01 PM PST US From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" OK I gotta chime in here....I have been trying to stay quiet on the subject but I think you are making a mistake. I have had to remove a bunch of the inspection plates that have been glued on and it is often a real headache. Proseal is a very effective glue....even if the plate comes off easy you will have to razor blade the sealant off of the tank and the plate and you will score the crap out of both surfaces. I have had the plate stuck on there so hard that I ruined it trying to remove it. I also know a guy who punched a hole in the end rib trying to pry the plate up. It can be a real bear of a job. If you dont trust the gaskets then put them on dry and then put a fillet of sealant around the plate. Same thing goes for the screws...keeping the sealant out of the screw heads. Also if you are going to substitue different screws be careful. The ones Vans send are very soft and do strip out real easy...but for a good reason. It is a lot easier to get another screw than to replace a stripped nutplate. Trust me on this, I have handled a lot of tanks. :) Evan www.evansaviationproducts.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Geoff Evans" Subject: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders > --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans > > After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates and > fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the > inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus seems > to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and moderately > easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be. > > I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in > place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove later > if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard > socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, but > the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive. > > Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed > with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one > message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in > several years. > > Thanks. > -Geoff > > RV-8 QB > > __________________________________ > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:02:35 PM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans gauge lamps --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" Mark, I recently had a requirement for a special lamp, and found what I was looking for by doing a Google search on Miniature lamps. The entire GE catalogue is listed (PDF file) and also aviation vendors. Good luck. Cheers!!----Henry Hore ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 04:22:19 PM PST US From: "Duane Bentley" Subject: RV-List: Heated Paint Booth --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" I'm close to painting my RV6. One option I'm considering is an offer from a good friend who is an excellent professional painter for the last 25 year, at a large auto body shop near me. Obviously I'd have the wings and fuselage (with empennage installed) done in pieces prior to assembly. In going through the painting process review with him, he discussed the auto painting and the 10-20 minute "bake" they do on automobiles after each stage. Although I'd take the slider canopy off and paint it separately (air cure?), I'm unsure about subjecting the fuselage to a quick heat cycle with the plexiglass windscreen. The instruments in the panel are also a concern, although obviously cars go through this with all their plastic parts and nothing melts. My painter says we could skip the bake, but it would take a good deal longer to dry. I don't know how hot it gets in the booth; I'd guess at least 110 degrees maybe more. My concern would be how rapidly the temperature came up. He says he can change the temperature rate as well if that is a problem. I know that Eustace Bowhay talked about painting his next RV in pieces and then assembling it. Has anyone had experience with a heated professional paint booth. Thanks Duane Bentley RV6 Finishing West Chester, OH

I’m close to painting my RV6.  One option I’m considering is an offer from a good friend who is an excellent professional painter for the last 25 year, at a large auto body shop near me.  Obviously I’d have the wings and fuselage (with empennage installed) done in pieces prior to assembly. 

 

In going through the painting process review with him, he discussed the auto painting and the 10-20 minute “bake” they do on automobiles after each stage.  Although I’d take the slider canopy off and paint it separately (air cure?), I’m unsure about subjecting the fuselage to a quick heat cycle with the plexiglass windscreen.  The instruments in the panel are also a concern, although obviously cars go through this with all their plastic parts and nothing melts.  My painter says we could skip the bake, but it would take a good deal longer to dry.  I don’t know how hot it gets in the booth; I’d guess at least 110 degrees maybe more.  My concern would be how rapidly the temperature came up.  He says he can change the temperature rate as well if that is a problem.

 

I know that Eustace Bowhay talked about painting his next RV in pieces and then assembling it.  Has anyone had experience with a heated professional paint booth.

 

Thanks

 

Duane Bentley

 

RV6 Finishing

 

West Chester, OH

  

________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 04:33:02 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders From: "Pieper_Frank" --> RV-List message posted by: "Pieper_Frank" UnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribe > ---------- > From: Gert > Reply To: rv-list@matronics.com > Sent: Friday, October 3, 2003 2:47 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders > > Unsubscribe--> RV-List message posted by: Gert > > Geoff > > Don't know if that was my message, but I had problems with inconsistent > readings because there was no good ground contact between the sender and > the tank, I drilled and tapped a small hole in the sender base for a > dedicated small ground strap. > > I wonder sometimes if tank error readins sometimes are the result of > this but blamed on sender and/or gauge. > > Gert > > Geoff Evans wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans > > > > After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates and > > fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the > > inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus seems > > to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and moderately > > easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be. > > > > I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in > > place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove later > > if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard > > socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, but > > the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive. > > > > Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed > > with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one > > message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in > > several years. > > > > Thanks. > > -Geoff > > > > RV-8 QB > > > > __________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- > is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:35:25 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders From: "Pieper_Frank" --> RV-List message posted by: "Pieper_Frank" UnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribeUnsubscribe > ---------- > From: Evan and Megan Johnson > Reply To: rv-list@matronics.com > Sent: Friday, October 3, 2003 2:59 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > > OK I gotta chime in here....I have been trying to stay quiet on the subject > but I think you are making a mistake. I have had to remove a bunch of the > inspection plates that have been glued on and it is often a real headache. > Proseal is a very effective glue....even if the plate comes off easy you > will have to razor blade the sealant off of the tank and the plate and you > will score the crap out of both surfaces. I have had the plate stuck on > there so hard that I ruined it trying to remove it. I also know a guy who > punched a hole in the end rib trying to pry the plate up. It can be a real > bear of a job. If you dont trust the gaskets then put them on dry and then > put a fillet of sealant around the plate. Same thing goes for the > screws...keeping the sealant out of the screw heads. Also if you are going > to substitue different screws be careful. The ones Vans send are very soft > and do strip out real easy...but for a good reason. It is a lot easier to > get another screw than to replace a stripped nutplate. Trust me on this, I > have handled a lot of tanks. :) > > Evan > www.evansaviationproducts.com > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Geoff Evans" > To: "RV List" > Subject: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans > > > > After reading the archives on the subject of fuel tank inspection plates > and > > fuel senders, I've decided to throw away the gaskets and just proseal the > > inspection covers and the SW float fuel senders. The general consensus > seems > > to be that prosealing the whole thing will be more leakproof and > moderately > > easy to remove with a sharp putty knife if need be. > > > > I'm going to order some stainless steel socket head cap screws to use in > > place of the AN phillips head screws. They should be easier to remove > later > > if need be. Does anyone have any comments regarding the use of standard > > socket head screws versus "button head" screws? Both use an allen wrench, > but > > the button heads have a lower profile and are somewhat less expensive. > > > > Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when > sealed > > with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one > > message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in > > several years. > > > > Thanks. > > -Geoff > > > > RV-8 QB > > > > __________________________________ > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 06:11:32 PM PST US From: RV6AOKC@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: oil door --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com speaking of oil doors....anyone have ideas on how to cut the door out from the top cowl...Im a little leary of attacking it with my dremel...there must be a better way to get a nice cut....im afraid Im going to skip the disk all over the place.... kurt in okc.... do not archive ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 06:49:31 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: oil door --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hi Kurt, If you use a diamond cutting blade made for the dremel tool types. You should find it very easy to control. The blades I found are about 1" in diameter and very thin. They cut fiberglass like its butter. They also come in a larger diameter, about 2.5". They can be mounted on same shaft used for the cut off stones. I think Dremel sells the small diameter diamond cutters already mounted on a 1/8" shaft, Price wise you might say they give you the shaft....(:-)! Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: oil door > --> RV-List message posted by: RV6AOKC@aol.com > > speaking of oil doors....anyone have ideas on how to cut the door out from > the top cowl...Im a little leary of attacking it with my dremel...there must be > a better way to get a nice cut....im afraid Im going to skip the disk all over > the place.... > > kurt in okc.... > > do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 07:20:15 PM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Previously owned RV kits --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" Im nearing completion of a 6a that was started 14 years ago. I bought it partially completed from a previous owner. I am very fortunate to have found some local builders with a ton of experience, especially in RV's. In finishing the kit, we have found some very serious problems. The empennage attach bolts missed the longerons, the rudder would not attach to the vs without serious bending, the wings were ridiculously tight, ailerons mounted too high....... As you can tell, there were plenty of mistakes that I dont think I would have caught without the help from others. One of these may have caused a fatal accident. It definitely made me think. I just hope we caught them all. Now, with that being said, I still am glad with my purchase. I'll have the plane flying in much less time and with less money than if I bought it new. Even with the problems, if you're careful enough with your purchase and subsequent inspections, I believe you can make buying a partial kit a great deal. If you have to tear some parts open to inspect, you'll still be time well ahead than starting from scratch. I cant stress enough to try and find some experienced RV builder(s) to help you inspect every piece. Then get busy finishing. Good luck Jeff Dowling RV-6A almost Chicago/Louisville ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 08:07:30 PM PST US From: "Ernest Kells" Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans gauge lamps --> RV-List message posted by: "Ernest Kells" > Also broke one of the standard lamps disassembling & see no mention of > replacement lamps in Vans online catalog or anywhere else that might be > compatible- do these things last forever? Where can I get a > replacement? Thanks Mark - 6A, wiring "almost" done! do not archive > Mark: Replacement Lamps are available in the on-line Catalogue under "Miscellaneous Items". IE IEV 12V LAMP Vans gauge replacement lamp $1.90 ea. Ernest Kells - RV-9A O235-N2C, Wood Prop 90 plus % Complete - seats and Misc. ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 08:56:52 PM PST US From: "Jerry" Subject: RE: RV-List: Manual elevator trim placard --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry" How about an update and some pictures Pete? Jerry Doyal -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Delee & Pete Subject: RV-List: Manual elevator trim placard --> RV-List message posted by: "Delee & Pete" <4680@comcast.net> I am looking for a source for a placard for my manual elevator trim.
I am looking for a source for a placard for my manual elevator trim.
== direct advertising on the Matronics Forums. == http://www.matronics.com/trouble-report == == ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 09:21:12 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is done first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the solution to this puzzle?? - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:37 PM PST US From: Jim Oke Subject: Re: RV-List: Heated Paint Booth --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke If you have an offer from a professional painter with professional facilities at hand, then take it! The "Do it yourself" alternative will consume a surprising amount of time and personal effort. As far as the "bake" goes, it sounds no worse than parking the airplane on a typical concrete ramp in the US southwest on most any summer day. A nice slow warm up and cool down would be preferred to ensure even heating/cooling and so reduce differential expansion. Perhaps try and get some actual temperatures involved to see what really happens in the paint booth. Jim Oke RV-6A Winnipeg, MB ----- Original Message ----- From: "Duane Bentley" Subject: RV-List: Heated Paint Booth > --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Bentley" > > > I'm close to painting my RV6. One option I'm considering is an offer > from a good friend who is an excellent professional painter for the last > 25 year, at a large auto body shop near me. Obviously I'd have the > wings and fuselage (with empennage installed) done in pieces prior to > assembly. > > > In going through the painting process review with him, he discussed the > auto painting and the 10-20 minute "bake" they do on automobiles after > each stage. Although I'd take the slider canopy off and paint it > separately (air cure?), I'm unsure about subjecting the fuselage to a > quick heat cycle with the plexiglass windscreen. The instruments in the > panel are also a concern, although obviously cars go through this with > all their plastic parts and nothing melts. My painter says we could > skip the bake, but it would take a good deal longer to dry. I don't > know how hot it gets in the booth; I'd guess at least 110 degrees maybe > more. My concern would be how rapidly the temperature came up. He says > he can change the temperature rate as well if that is a problem. > > > I know that Eustace Bowhay talked about painting his next RV in pieces > and then assembling it. Has anyone had experience with a heated > professional paint booth. > > > Thanks > > > Duane Bentley > > > RV6 Finishing > > > West Chester, OH > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>I’m close to painting my > RV6.  > One option I’m considering is an offer from a good friend who is > an > excellent professional painter for the last 25 year, at a large auto > body shop > near me.  Obviously I’d have the wings and fuselage (with > empennage installed) > done in pieces prior to assembly. 

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> 

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>In going through the painting > process > review with him, he discussed the auto painting and the 10-20 minute > “bake” they do on automobiles after each stage.  > Although > I’d take the slider canopy off and paint it separately (air > cure?), > I’m unsure about subjecting the fuselage to a quick heat cycle > with the > plexiglass windscreen.  The instruments in the panel are also a > concern, > although obviously cars go through this with all their plastic parts and > nothing melts.  My painter says we could skip the bake, but it > would take > a good deal longer to dry.  I don’t know how hot it gets in > the > booth; I’d guess at least 110 degrees maybe more.  My concern > would > be how rapidly the temperature came up.  He says he can change the > temperature rate as well if that is a problem.

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> 

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>I know that Eustace Bowhay talked > about > painting his next RV in pieces and then assembling it.  Has anyone > had > experience with a heated professional paint booth.

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> 

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Thanks

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> 

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>Duane Bentley

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> 

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>RV6 Finishing

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'> 

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>West Chester, OH

> >

style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Arial;color:black'>  

> >
> > > > > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 09:53:08 PM PST US From: LeastDrag93066@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Transponder antenna mounted inside cowl? --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com -------------------------------1065243166 In a message dated 10/03/2003 12:29:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, crabaut@coalinga.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Jim, Whatcha' buildin'.... an RV-4 that will pull +10/-10 G's ???? Chuck No, I just want to be able to reach Vne in level flight. Where Vne = 270 mph. Jim Ayers -------------------------------1065243166 tutf-8">
In a message dated 10/03/2003 12:29:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, crabau= t@coalinga.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut"=20= <crabaut@coalinga.com>

Jim,

    Whatcha' build= in'.... an RV-4 that will pull +10/-10 G's  ????

    &= nbsp;           Chuck
 
No,
 
I just want to be able to reach Vne in l= evel flight.  Where Vne 270 mph. 
 
Jim Ayers
-------------------------------1065243166-- ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:00 PM PST US From: "Bruce Gray" Subject: RE: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" Duct tape! (sorry, coundn't resist) Bruce www.glasair.org Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Bowen Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is done first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the solution to this puzzle?? - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com