Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:03 AM - Re: oil door (RV4PatA@aol.com)
2. 08:29 AM - RV Flap Settings (czechsix@juno.com)
3. 08:32 AM - best oil filter cutter (Knicholas2@aol.com)
4. 08:39 AM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Elsa & Henry)
5. 09:39 AM - Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle (Karie Daniel)
6. 09:45 AM - Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle (JusCash@aol.com)
7. 10:41 AM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Doug Weiler)
8. 11:10 AM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Jerry Springer)
9. 11:26 AM - Re: RV Flap Settings (RV8ter@aol.com)
10. 11:33 AM - Wing trailing edge fairing (PGLong@aol.com)
11. 12:02 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Brian Denk)
12. 12:49 PM - Question on PC (j1j2h3@juno.com)
13. 12:49 PM - C/S Prop (JNice51355@aol.com)
14. 01:06 PM - Re: Vans gauge lamps (BillDube@killacycle.com)
15. 02:33 PM - [ Jerry Calvert ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
16. 02:47 PM - Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle (Larry Bowen)
17. 02:48 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Larry Bowen)
18. 02:51 PM - Flap leading edge protection (Richard Dudley)
19. 03:19 PM - Previously owned RV-8 Kit (Jim Nolan)
20. 03:46 PM - Re: Flap leading edge protection (Harvey Sigmon)
21. 04:05 PM - Another completed RV-6 (DAVID DAVENPORT)
22. 04:16 PM - Re: Flap leading edge protection (Larry Bowen)
23. 04:21 PM - rivet gun psi (Radomir Zaric)
24. 05:12 PM - Re: rivet gun psi (Gert)
25. 05:12 PM - Re: Another completed RV-6 (Stein Bruch)
26. 05:41 PM - Re: Flap leading edge protection (Gary Zilik)
27. 05:41 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Gary Zilik)
28. 05:41 PM - Re: rivet gun psi (Gary Zilik)
29. 05:55 PM - Re: Another completed RV-6 (Charles Rowbotham)
30. 06:13 PM - Re: rivet gun psi (Stein Bruch)
31. 06:17 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Paul Besing)
32. 06:24 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (William Davis)
33. 06:36 PM - Re: rivet gun psi (Charlie & Tupper England)
34. 06:39 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Jerry Springer)
35. 06:46 PM - [Fw: Re: rivet gun psi] (More) (Charlie & Tupper England)
36. 07:22 PM - Nylon brakeline fittings (Jeff Orear)
37. 07:45 PM - Re: Flap leading edge protection (Gil Alexander)
38. 08:04 PM - Dynon report (mstewart@qa.butler.com)
39. 08:11 PM - Re: Nylon brakeline fittings (Brian Denk)
40. 08:12 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Jim Oke)
41. 08:47 PM - Re: Dynon report (RV8ter@aol.com)
42. 08:59 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (rv6tc)
43. 09:20 PM - Re: best oil filter cutter (Vanremog@aol.com)
44. 11:06 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: RV4PatA@aol.com
In a message dated 10/3/3 8:12:47 PM, RV6AOKC@aol.com writes:
<<.anyone have ideas on how to cut the door out from
the top cowl>>
Kurt
I used a hack saw blade on the straight part, and a round blade that fits
into a hack saw to cut curved corners. It came out very nice. To start the
cut, use the end teeth on the hack saw blade to work your way through the glass.
Sounds harder than it is to do.
Pat Allender
RV-4 Iowa City Go Hawks
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
degree range?
If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work
well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D painting...
Message 3
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| Subject: | best oil filter cutter |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I want to get an oil filter cutter but there are several available. Which
one seems to work the best and is less messy?
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - almost done!
Kent, WA
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when
sealed
> with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one
> message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in
> several years.
My $.02 worth:
I also was concerned about the ground return for the senders and also by the
sealing method of the cover plates, especially after seeing George Orndorf's
video on the wing construction. He made a comment about some people using
Pro-seal to seal it but would probably wreck the tank if you ever had to
remove it. So I didn't. I just have the gasket with a small bead of fuel
resistant sealant running around both sides of the gasket.
This bead is spread in a circle inside the circle of the screws.
The reinforcing plate with the platenuts is prosealed along its edges to the
tank's rib to prevent gas weeping through between it and the rib. All the
platenuts are capped with a small thimble and they are liberally prosealed.
The net result is that no gas can weep down the screw threads and the
screws provide the necessary ground .
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Larry,
I just finished this job and the lens goes in fine. You have to bend the
plexi sort of like trying to close an open clam shell and then slide it in.
Sure its a little tight but completely doable. Make sure not to scratch the
lens on the opening though. I put a little tape on the edge of the opening
to make sure of this then removed it once the lens is in.
It's a pretty flexible lens and it helps to warm it up a little first.
Karie Daniel
Vans RV-7A
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't
> get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is done
> first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the solution to this
> puzzle??
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
-------------------------------1065285903
Use duct tape to hold the lens in position per the instructions
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 10/4/2003 9:40:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
karie4@comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Larry,
I just finished this job and the lens goes in fine. You have to bend the
plexi sort of like trying to close an open clam shell and then slide it in.
Sure its a little tight but completely doable. Make sure not to scratch the
lens on the opening though. I put a little tape on the edge of the opening
to make sure of this then removed it once the lens is in.
It's a pretty flexible lens and it helps to warm it up a little first.
Karie Daniel
Vans RV-7A
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't
> get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is done
> first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the solution to this
> puzzle??
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
-------------------------------1065285903
<HTML><HEAD>
tutf-8">
<META content"MSHTML 5.50.4207.2601" nameGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>
<DIV>Use duct tape to hold the lens in position per the instructions</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Cash Copeland</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 10/4/2003 9:40:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, karie4@c=
omcast.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT faceArial>--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Danie=
l" <karie4@comcast.net><BR><BR>Larry,<BR>I just finished this job and=20=
the lens goes in fine. You have to bend the<BR>plexi sort of like trying to=20=
close an open clam shell and then slide it in.<BR>Sure its a little tight bu=
t completely doable. Make sure not to scratch the<BR>lens on the opening tho=
ugh. I put a little tape on the edge of the opening<BR>to make sure of=
this then removed it once the lens is in.<BR><BR>It's a pretty flexible len=
s and it helps to warm it up a little first.<BR><BR>Karie Daniel<BR>Vans RV-=
7A<BR>Sammamish, WA.<BR>----- Original Message -----<BR>From: "Larry Bowen"=20=
<Larry@bowenaero.com><BR>To: <rv-list@matronics.com><BR>Subject:=
RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle<BR><BR><BR>> --> RV-List mess=
age posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com><BR>><BR>> I d=
on't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't<BR>=
> get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is d=
one<BR>> first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the soluti=
on to this<BR>> puzzle??<BR>><BR>> -<BR>> Larry Bowen<BR>> La=
rry@BowenAero.com<BR>> http://BowenAero.com<BR>><BR>></FONT></BLOCK=
QUOTE></DIV>
<DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-------------------------------1065285903--
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
> decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
> What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
> degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
> yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
> landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
> with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
> minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
> degree range?
>
> If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work
> well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Mark Navratil
Personally I wouldn't go to the trouble. I always use full flaps for
landing. These are not like Cessna flaps that induce a large amount of
drag. I make no flap takeoffs except on grass there I will deflect the
flaps equal to the down deflection of one aileron. Works fine.
For landing, I use one half flaps on base leg (that takes 4 seconds or I
just glance out and eye-ball it). Full flaps on final (another 4 seconds).
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW, 82+ hours
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
I have to agree with Doug, it is so easy to glance out and see what the
flap position is that trying to
mark positions is not necessary IMO.
Jerry
do not archive
Doug Weiler wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
>
>
>>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
>>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
>>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
>>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
>>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
>>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
>>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
>>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
>>degree range?
>>
>>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work
>>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>--Mark Navratil
>>
>>
>
>Personally I wouldn't go to the trouble. I always use full flaps for
>landing. These are not like Cessna flaps that induce a large amount of
>drag. I make no flap takeoffs except on grass there I will deflect the
>flaps equal to the down deflection of one aileron. Works fine.
>
>For landing, I use one half flaps on base leg (that takes 4 seconds or I
>just glance out and eye-ball it). Full flaps on final (another 4 seconds).
>
>Doug Weiler
>RV-4, N722DW, 82+ hours
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
on a dark night no problem? thought a small dot of reflective tape would do
wonders.
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">on a dark night no problem? thought a small dot=20=
of reflective tape would do wonders.</FONT></HTML>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Wing trailing edge fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
-------------------------------1065292372
Getting to the F-466 wing trailing edge fairing. The just over 90 degree bend
doesn't fit the rounded portion of the fuselage. Am I to take some of the
bend out so that the trailing edge does fit the radius of the fuselage or just
leave another unfaired end to the piece?
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N924PL (reserved)
Working on an RV4
Bay City, Michigan
Do Not Archive
-------------------------------1065292372
<HTML><HEAD>
tutf-8">
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" nameGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #fffff=
f">
<DIV>Getting to the F-466 wing trailing edge fairing. The just over 90 degre=
e bend doesn't fit the rounded portion of the fuselage. Am I to take some of=
the bend out so that the trailing edge does fit the radius of the fuselage=20=
or just leave another unfaired end to the piece?</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang0 faceArial size2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE"10"=
>Pat Long<BR>PGLong@aol.com<BR>N924PL (reserved)<BR>Working on an RV4<BR>Bay=
City, Michigan<BR><BR>Do Not Archive</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-------------------------------1065292372--
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>Guys,
>
>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
>degree range?
>
>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work
>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
>
>Thanks!
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D painting...
Mark,
I have no indicator whatsoever. I don't need one. I look out the window! I
pop them down a bit for takeoff, and drop them all the way down for most
landings.
So there.
Have fun!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
Hi Bert
Your software will only work if you keep it updated . Most companies
offer free updates if you keep your subscription current. Yeah, it's a
pain and I hate to pay for an annual subscription, but it's a necessity
if you use the web.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee)
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: Question on P>C>
> --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
> Question on P>C>,,for the first time ever, I got a
> virus on my P>c.
>
> My P.c. has the program Mccaffe or someting like
> that, which suppose to prevent this...
>
> For those who have had this experience, what is
> the best way to clear this?
>
> It is a real pain....
>
Message 13
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|
at.a.big.ISP@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com
Folks
Not sure if this is of any use, since I plan a fixed pitch, but there is a
c/s prop on ebay that came off of a Malibu Mirage. It's an HC-12YR-1BF. The
"buy it now" price is
$1370.00
Jim Nice
WA State
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">Folks<BR>
Not sure if this is of any use, since I plan a fixed pitch, but there is a c=
/s prop on ebay that came off of a Malibu Mirage. It's an HC-12YR-1BF.=
The "buy it now" price is<BR>
$1370.00<BR>
Jim Nice<BR>
WA State</FONT></HTML>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Vans gauge lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BillDube@killacycle.com" <BillDube@killacycle.com>
At 02:43 PM 10/3/03, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
>Attempting to achieve a total-LED panel, I am trying to convert
>(pervert?) Vans fuel gauges to accept LEDs without much success.
>Problem is the lamps must radiate 360 degrees around the axis of the
>lamp holder to do much good. Has anyone experimented with using
>diffuse-lense high intensity red LEDs for this? Any thoughts on if it
>would even work?
Perhaps you could put little reflective cones at the tip of each
LED. You could make them out of aluminum (or anything shiny) and place them
in the lamp holder ahead of the LED.
They sell some pretty wide angle white LEDs. I've seen as large as
170, but 50 degrees is not uncommon. Wider angle would be better for this
application.
Bill Dube <LED@Killacycle.com>
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Message 15
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| Subject: | [ Jerry Calvert ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Jerry Calvert <rv6@cox.net>
Subject: Oil Door
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv6@cox.net.10.04.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Duckworks landing light puzzle |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Once I trimmed it 'almost to the retaining strip' it fit fine. Just
like the instructions said it would. RTFM....
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Karie Daniel [mailto:karie4@comcast.net]
> Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 12:39 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> Larry,
> I just finished this job and the lens goes in fine. You have
> to bend the plexi sort of like trying to close an open clam
> shell and then slide it in. Sure its a little tight but
> completely doable. Make sure not to scratch the lens on the
> opening though. I put a little tape on the edge of the
> opening to make sure of this then removed it once the lens is in.
>
> It's a pretty flexible lens and it helps to warm it up a little first.
>
> Karie Daniel
> Vans RV-7A
> Sammamish, WA.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
> >
> > I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in
> place, I can't
> > get the lense back through the hole to install. If the
> lense is done
> > first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the
> solution to this
> > puzzle??
> >
> > -
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry@BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
I have a (flap marking) dream:
Mark the inboard end of the flap at the top wing skin with the flaps up.
Lower the flaps completely and mark the flap at the outboard end at the
wing skin. Connect the two marks, giving you a diagonal line.
Above/forward of the line paint safety orange/red/whatever -- some
contrasting color. As the flap are lowered the colored area grows and
progresses outboard. If it's halfway out, you have half flaps. Etc.
This seems really cool and clever in my mind's eye. Are there any
drawbacks?
Not really what you were asking for, but I thought I would share anyway.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 forever finishing ...
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: czechsix@juno.com [mailto:czechsix@juno.com]
> Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:30 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV Flap Settings
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Guys,
>
> I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I
> have decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to
> show position.
> What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have
> markings every 10 degrees, or just a single mark for the
> "half flaps" position? Or better yet, a mark for the typical
> takeoff position? Seems to me that most landings will be
> done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done with
> either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift
> with minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere
> in the 10-15 degree range?
>
> If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that
> seem to work well for best performance, I'd appreciate
> knowing what they are.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D painting...
Message 18
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| Subject: | Flap leading edge protection |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Listers,
The leading edge of the flap on the RV-6/A (and probably all other RV's)
is tight against the underside of the top skin of the wing. It drags on
that top skin as the flaps are lowered.
I have seen flap leading edges covered by a metal foil and by a white
polymer that Van sells as UHMW tape as a replacement for the metal foil.
My question is: has anyone tried applying the UMHW tape to the underside
of the wing skin rather than to the flap? What were the results? Does it
protect the paint on the flap?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A final details
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Previously owned RV-8 Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" <jamespnolan@earthlink.net>
Listers,
I've got a RV-8 empennage kit for sale. I've decided to go with a
RV-7 for my old age. I ordered the RV-7 empennage kit Friday. So, the
RV-8 empennage kit is for sale. The horizontal is done. Fair workmanship
if I do say so myself, and the vertical is started. I'm going out to the
hanger this evening to start inventorying the parts. ( I have them in
plastic drawers now.) I want $900.00 for the kit. I don't want to ship
the empennage so you have to come here to get it. I'll put you up for
the night, feed you and entertain you. You can't beat that. I live in
Warsaw, Indiana (north central Indiana)
Jim Nolan
N444JN
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Listers,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2> I've got a
RV-8 empennage
kit for sale. I've decided to go with a RV-7 for my old age. I ordered
the RV-7
empennage kit Friday. So, the RV-8 empennage kit is for sale. The
horizontal is
done. Fair workmanship if I do say so myself, and the vertical is
started. I'm
going out to the hanger this evening to start inventorying the parts. (
I have
them in plastic drawers now.) I want $900.00 for the kit. I don't want
to ship
the empennage so you have to come here to get it. I'll put you up for
the night,
feed you and entertain you. You can't beat that. I live in Warsaw,
Indiana
(north central Indiana)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Jim Nolan</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>N444JN</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap leading edge protection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
Richard: Regarding your question about the tape on the underside of the
wing to protect the wing flaps. I have UHMA tape on the underside of the
wing on my present RV, as Van suggested. After several hundred hours it is
showing some marks on the flaps. My previous RV-6 I used the Stainless tape
on the flap surface which was hid when the flaps were up. After 400 hours
no wear was noted on the tape. Of the two ideas I liked the Stainless Steel
tape best, and if it was still available I would use it as my flap as it is
beginning to show some scratches on the flap surfaces. My view only.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N502-RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> The leading edge of the flap on the RV-6/A (and probably all other RV's)
> is tight against the underside of the top skin of the wing. It drags on
> that top skin as the flaps are lowered.
>
> I have seen flap leading edges covered by a metal foil and by a white
> polymer that Van sells as UHMW tape as a replacement for the metal foil.
>
> My question is: has anyone tried applying the UMHW tape to the underside
> of the wing skin rather than to the flap? What were the results? Does it
> protect the paint on the flap?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A final details
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Another completed RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on Thursday, October 2. For those of
you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an older slow-build from
back in the days when you had to drill everything. These newer guys
don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a Sensenich
prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty
straight forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test
period knocked out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on
Thursday,
October 2. For those of you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an
older
slow-build from back in the days when you had to drill everything. These
newer
guys don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a
Sensenich
prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty
straight
forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test period
knocked
out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Flap leading edge protection |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
The rule-of-thumb I remember is you put the tape on the surface you
don't want scratched. Eventually you'll get some dust or dirt in there
and the opposing surface will be scuffed...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Richard Dudley [mailto:rhdudley@att.net]
> Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 5:48 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Listers,
>
> The leading edge of the flap on the RV-6/A (and probably all
> other RV's) is tight against the underside of the top skin of
> the wing. It drags on that top skin as the flaps are lowered.
>
> I have seen flap leading edges covered by a metal foil and by
> a white polymer that Van sells as UHMW tape as a replacement
> for the metal foil.
>
> My question is: has anyone tried applying the UMHW tape to
> the underside of the wing skin rather than to the flap? What
> were the results? Does it protect the paint on the flap?
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
> -6A final details
Message 23
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" <radomirz@vitez.net>
Hey guys,
I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets
etc.. So, I have two questions:
1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone
with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet,
everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with
that swivel regulator?
2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it -
well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for
shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set
to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than
80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing
wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun)
Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something
- but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head
goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from
the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-)
Thanks!
Radomir
Charlotte, NC
RV-7A Emp.
<html>
<head>
<meta nameGenerator content"Microsoft Word 11 (filtered)">
<style>
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<body langEN-US linkblue vlinkpurple>
<div classSection1>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Hey guys,</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>I keep reading about setting different psi for
different
size rivets etc.. So, I have two
questions:</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal
style'margin-left:25.5pt;text-indent:-.25in'><font size2
faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>1)<font size1
face"Times New Roman"><span style'font:7.0pt "Times New
Roman"'>
</span></font></span></font><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>Most of the builders’ sites I’ve
seen,
I haven’t noticed anyone with a pressure gauge (manometer?)
anywhere “near”
the gun. Yet, everyone’ s referring to 55psi etc.. How do
you know
what you set with that swivel regulator?</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal
style'margin-left:25.5pt;text-indent:-.25in'><font size2
faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>2)<font size1
face"Times New Roman"><span style'font:7.0pt "Times New
Roman"'>
</span></font></span></font><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>I got one of those regulators that has a
pressure
gauge on it – well, since I’ve seen references to setting
55psi (or
even less) for shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won’t
even “fire”
when set to that pressure.. actually it won’t “fire”
at
anything less than 80-85psi (per that gauge)… Would
anyone
know what I might be doing wrong? (It’s a Taylor 2x
gun)</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Now, back to a real-beginner’s question
</span></font><font
size2 faceWingdings><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>J</span></font><font
size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'> I
must be missing something – but when it comes to spars, how do I
determine which side factory head goes on (and ultimately, which way to
dimple). Am I to figure this from the drawings? Sorry if
this
qualifies as “dumbest question yet” </span></font><font
size2
faceWingdings><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>J</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Thanks!</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Radomir</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Charlotte</span></font><font size2
faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>, NC</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>RV-7A Emp.</span></font></p>
</div>
</body>
</html>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: rivet gun psi |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Radomir
There are two kinds of regulators, pressure and volume.
The pressure of 55 psi is set at the regulator with the gauge on, it
will set the force of the blow and within reason will try to maintain
the pressure at 55 psi regardless of volume (if the volume is within the
regulator specs) so the gun will chatter away as fast as it can.
The regulator in the swivel, if yours is like mine, regulates an amount
of air (yes, it does INDIRECTLY affect the pressure at the gun). It
would slow down the amount of strokes you get from the rivet gun because
the volume of air is restricted. TOO much restriction and the air will
bleed out of the gun faster than the air can move through the swivel and
hence never build up pressure to start with.
try the swivel all the way open and then play with the pressure till you
are happy with the force of the blow. Then close the swivel regulator
sloooowly till the strokes slow down a bit.
From experience with the rivet gun I worked with, it sometimes appears
gummed up or so and I have to drip airtool oil in it. that will make the
mechanism go better (read: at lower pressures). Also, in the cold months
it not always wants to work in the nether regions of the working pressure.
I have a piece of (soft) wood I use to set the airpressure. I press the
gun with the rivet set I am going to use and regulate the air pressure
till I have the right 'feel'. If needed I tweak the swivel regulator so
it slows down the blows to minimize walking of the buckingbar or rivet set.
Hope this helps
Gert
Radomir Zaric wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" <radomirz@vitez.net>
>
>
> Hey guys,
>
>
> I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets
> etc.. So, I have two questions:
>
>
> 1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone
> with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet,
> everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with
> that swivel regulator?
>
> 2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it -
> well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for
> shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set
> to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than
> 80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing
> wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun)
>
>
> Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something
> - but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head
> goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from
> the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-)
>
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> Radomir
>
> Charlotte, NC
>
> RV-7A Emp.
>
>
> <html>
>
> <head>
> <meta nameGenerator content"Microsoft Word 11 (filtered)">
>
> <style>
> <!--
> /* Font Definitions */
> @font-face
> {font-family:Wingdings;
> panose-1:5 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0;}
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> -->
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>
> </head>
>
> <body langEN-US linkblue vlinkpurple>
>
> <div classSection1>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'>Hey guys,</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'>I keep reading about setting different psi for
> different
> size rivets etc.. So, I have two
> questions:</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal
> style'margin-left:25.5pt;text-indent:-.25in'><font size2
> faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>1)<font size1
> face"Times New Roman"><span style'font:7.0pt "Times New
> Roman"'>
> </span></font></span></font><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>Most of the builders’ sites I’ve
> seen,
> I haven’t noticed anyone with a pressure gauge (manometer?)
> anywhere “near”
> the gun. Yet, everyone’ s referring to 55psi etc.. How do
> you know
> what you set with that swivel regulator?</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal
> style'margin-left:25.5pt;text-indent:-.25in'><font size2
> faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>2)<font size1
> face"Times New Roman"><span style'font:7.0pt "Times New
> Roman"'>
> </span></font></span></font><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:
> 10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>I got one of those regulators that has a
> pressure
> gauge on it – well, since I’ve seen references to setting
> 55psi (or
> even less) for shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won’t
> even “fire”
> when set to that pressure.. actually it won’t “fire”
> at
> anything less than 80-85psi (per that gauge)… Would
> anyone
> know what I might be doing wrong? (It’s a Taylor 2x
> gun)</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'>Now, back to a real-beginner’s question
> </span></font><font
> size2 faceWingdings><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>J</span></font><font
> size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'> I
> must be missing something – but when it comes to spars, how do I
> determine which side factory head goes on (and ultimately, which way to
> dimple). Am I to figure this from the drawings? Sorry if
> this
> qualifies as “dumbest question yet” </span></font><font
> size2
> faceWingdings><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>J</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'>Thanks!</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'>Radomir</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'>Charlotte</span></font><font size2
> faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>, NC</span></font></p>
>
> <p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
> style'font-size:10.0pt;
> font-family:Verdana'>RV-7A Emp.</span></font></p>
>
> </div>
>
> </body>
>
> </html>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Another completed RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi David,
A well Deserved Congratulations. Those of us who have built the "super slow
build" kits can truly appreciate your accomplishment!
WAY TO GO - Happy Flying,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID DAVENPORT
Subject: RV-List: Another completed RV-6
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on Thursday, October 2. For those of
you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an older slow-build from
back in the days when you had to drill everything. These newer guys
don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a Sensenich
prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty
straight forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test
period knocked out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on
Thursday,
October 2. For those of you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an
older
slow-build from back in the days when you had to drill everything. These
newer
guys don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a
Sensenich
prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty
straight
forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test period
knocked
out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap leading edge protection |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
For some reason I put it on both surfaces. If you only put it only on
the bottom side of the skin dirt will get in and scratch the paint on
the flap. Of course this can only be seen with the flaps down.
Gary
Richard Dudley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>The leading edge of the flap on the RV-6/A (and probably all other RV's)
>is tight against the underside of the top skin of the wing. It drags on
>that top skin as the flaps are lowered.
>
>I have seen flap leading edges covered by a metal foil and by a white
>polymer that Van sells as UHMW tape as a replacement for the metal foil.
>
>My question is: has anyone tried applying the UMHW tape to the underside
>of the wing skin rather than to the flap? What were the results? Does it
>protect the paint on the flap?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Regards,
>
>Richard Dudley
>-6A final details
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that
for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and
match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. This seemed to
work pretty good. I have manual flaps and use 10 deg of flaps when heavy
for takeoff. For landing my first flap notch is full. Get em down and
forget about em.
Gary
Gary
czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>Guys,
>
>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
>degree range?
>
>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work
>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
>
>Thanks!
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D painting...
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: rivet gun psi |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Hey guys,
>1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone
>with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet,
>everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with
>that swivel regulator?
>
The swivel regulator only regulates the amount of air to the gun. It has
no effect on pressure. Use the swivel to adjust the speed of the hits.
The regulator on the air compressor regulates pressure.
>
>2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it -
>well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for
>shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set
>to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than
>80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing
>wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun)
>
Sometimes mine missfires but always goes. That is a sign that it needs
cleaning. (works for me) I have no experience with a Taylor gun.
>
>
>Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something
>- but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head
>goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from
>the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-)
>
I'm not quite sure I understand the question. I do know that the female
die goes on the inside of the skin and the male on the outside. you want
the dimple going to the inside. On my slow build 6A I countersunk
everything on the empenage cept for the rudder and elevators.
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>Radomir
>
>Charlotte, NC
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Another completed RV-6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
David,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Another completed RV-6
>Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 19:05:38 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" <ddavenport5@nc.rr.com>
>
>
>Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on Thursday, October 2. For those of
>you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an older slow-build from
>back in the days when you had to drill everything. These newer guys
>don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a Sensenich
>prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty
>straight forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test
>period knocked out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.
>
>
><HTML><HEAD>
><META content"MSHTML 6.00.2600.0" nameGENERATOR>
><STYLE></STYLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY bgColor#ffffff>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on
>Thursday,
>October 2. For those of you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an
>older
>slow-build from back in the days when you had to drill everything. These
>newer
>guys don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a
>Sensenich
>prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty
>straight
>forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test period
>knocked
>out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.</FONT></DIV>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
><DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV></BODY></HTML>
>
>
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
This brings up the same old debate.
Here's what I do. I have a very good brass regulator on my rivet gun, and
leave my shop air at 120psi. You'll see that most experienced sheet metal
guys don't give a hoot about pressures. The process....you shoot the rivet
gun onto a piece of wood or something for a split second while adjusting the
pressure knob on the gun. When it feels right for the size of rivet and set
you are using, go riveting.
The problem I have with adjusting the air at the compressor is as follows:
1) If you adjust it at the compressor, you still don't truly know what the
pressure at the gun is becuase of line loss.
2) Pressure at the gun is next to meaningless. Different guns require
different pressures for the same task.
3) Quickly changine sets becomes and issue. Flush, Spoon, or Mushroom sets
take more "bang" than straight sets.
4) If you're doing things like fuselage skins that may have both #3 & #4
rivets, It's nice to change the pressure quickly.
5) If you need to drill out a rivet it's nice to have the pressure cranked
up for the drill.
I think I'll start selling the high quality brass valves on my site, as soon
as I can get a good deal on them. I'll keep everyone posted when I do.
Hope this helps,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Radomir Zaric
Subject: RV-List: rivet gun psi
--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" <radomirz@vitez.net>
Hey guys,
I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets
etc.. So, I have two questions:
1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone
with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet,
everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with
that swivel regulator?
2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it -
well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for
shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set
to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than
80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing
wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun)
Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something
- but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head
goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from
the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-)
Thanks!
Radomir
Charlotte, NC
RV-7A Emp.
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<div classSection1>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Hey guys,</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>I keep reading about setting different psi for
different
size rivets etc.. So, I have two
questions:</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal
style'margin-left:25.5pt;text-indent:-.25in'><font size2
faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>1)<font size1
face"Times New Roman"><span style'font:7.0pt "Times New
Roman"'>
</span></font></span></font><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>Most of the builders’ sites I’ve
seen,
I haven’t noticed anyone with a pressure gauge (manometer?)
anywhere “near”
the gun. Yet, everyone’ s referring to 55psi etc.. How do
you know
what you set with that swivel regulator?</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal
style'margin-left:25.5pt;text-indent:-.25in'><font size2
faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>2)<font size1
face"Times New Roman"><span style'font:7.0pt "Times New
Roman"'>
</span></font></span></font><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:
10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>I got one of those regulators that has a
pressure
gauge on it – well, since I’ve seen references to setting
55psi (or
even less) for shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won’t
even “fire”
when set to that pressure.. actually it won’t “fire”
at
anything less than 80-85psi (per that gauge)… Would
anyone
know what I might be doing wrong? (It’s a Taylor 2x
gun)</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Now, back to a real-beginner’s question
</span></font><font
size2 faceWingdings><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>J</span></font><font
size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'> I
must be missing something – but when it comes to spars, how do I
determine which side factory head goes on (and ultimately, which way to
dimple). Am I to figure this from the drawings? Sorry if
this
qualifies as “dumbest question yet” </span></font><font
size2
faceWingdings><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>J</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Thanks!</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'> </span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Radomir</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>Charlotte</span></font><font size2
faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>, NC</span></font></p>
<p classMsoNormal><font size2 faceVerdana><span
style'font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:Verdana'>RV-7A Emp.</span></font></p>
</div>
</body>
</html>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Agreed here to. I had a position sensor (MAC LED type, looked really cool)
but thought it was useless. I focused too much on it, and it kept my eyes
from being outside. It didn't really matter how much was down, I just went
by feel and by looking outside. After 20 hours of flying *your* airplane
(really cool, BTW) you will know exactly how much flaps to use on most
normal approaches and landings. I used to bump a little more in just before
touchdown if it was a floater.
If I were to do it again (and I will) I'd leave out the position sensor.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >
> >Guys,
> >
> >I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
> >decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
> >What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
> >degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
> >yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
> >landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
> >with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
> >minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
> >degree range?
> >
> >If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work
> >well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D painting...
>
> Mark,
>
> I have no indicator whatsoever. I don't need one. I look out the window!
I
> pop them down a bit for takeoff, and drop them all the way down for most
> landings.
>
> So there.
>
> Have fun!
>
> Brian Denk
> RV8 N94BD
>
> Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy
>
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Mark,
In almost all cases, takeoff flaps are unnecessary in an RV and to use them
invites damage to the flaps from stones, etc. thrown back by the prop blast.
Bill, RV-8, Tiger-Kat
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV Flap Settings
> --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
> Guys,
>
> I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
> decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
> What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
> degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
> yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
> landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
> with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
> minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
> degree range?
>
> If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work
> well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D painting...
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: rivet gun psi |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Radomir Zaric wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" <radomirz@vitez.net>
>
>
>Hey guys,
>
>
>I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets
>etc.. So, I have two questions:
>
>
>1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone
>with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet,
>everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with
>that swivel regulator?
>
>2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it -
>well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for
>shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set
>to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than
>80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing
>wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun)
>
>
>Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something
>- but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head
>goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from
>the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-)
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>Radomir
>
>Charlotte, NC
>
>RV-7A Emp.
>
Hi Radomir,
You are right; every compressor/regulator/hose/gun regulator/gun
combination is different, so pressure numbers are very rough
approximations. Test on scrap & then use the pressure that's comfortable
for you.
If your spar question is about the tail kit spars, I applied an old
buisiness course planning technique: I used the 'best worst case
scenario' planning technique. I put the factory head on the side that
was easiest to drill out if I messed up the rivet. :-) If this is poor
technique, hopefully someone with more experience than us will offer
their wisdom.
Just wait till you get to the instruction that tells you the countersunk
head can go on either side....
Charlie
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Hi Gary,
You well have to explain this one to me. :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Gary Zilik wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>
>Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that
>for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and
>match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. This seemed to
>work pretty good. I have manual flaps and use 10 deg of flaps when heavy
>for takeoff. For landing my first flap notch is full. Get em down and
>forget about em.
>
>Gary
>
>Gary
>
>czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>>
>>Guys,
>>
>>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
>>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
>>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
>>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
>>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
>>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
>>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
>>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
>>degree range?
>>
>>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work
>>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
>>
>>Thanks!
>>
>>--Mark Navratil
>>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>>RV-8A N2D painting...
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: rivet gun psi] (More) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
-------- Original Message --------
Subject: Re: RV-List: rivet gun psi
From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Radomir Zaric wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" <radomirz@vitez.net>
>
>
>Hey guys,
>
>
>I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets
>etc.. So, I have two questions:
>
>
>1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone
>with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet,
>everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with
>that swivel regulator?
>
>2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it -
>well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for
>shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set
>to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than
>80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing
>wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun)
>
>
>Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something
>- but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head
>goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from
>the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-)
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>Radomir
>
>Charlotte, NC
>
>RV-7A Emp.
>
Hi Radomir,
You are right; every compressor/regulator/hose/gun regulator/gun
combination is different, so pressure numbers are very rough
approximations. Test on scrap & then use the pressure that's comfortable
for you.
If your spar question is about the tail kit spars, I applied an old
buisiness course planning technique: I used the 'best worst case
scenario' planning technique. I put the factory head on the side that
was easiest to drill out if I messed up the rivet. :-) If this is poor
technique, hopefully someone with more experience than us will offer
their wisdom.
Just wait till you get to the instruction that tells you the countersunk
head can go on either side....
Charlie
Just reread your question. If you are talking about the spar FLANGE,
then you dimple with the male die on the outside of the flange so that
the skin dimple will nest into it. If you are talking about the 1/8"
round head rivets that are internal, then my statement above would apply
(at least for me) & there wouldn't be any dimpling. Except for that one
3/16" internal rivet where they give you a choice of countersink sides....
(Yes, I finally figured out WHY they said that in the plans.)
Charlie
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Nylon brakeline fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
List:
I am trying to get my brake lines installed on the pedal end of the
system. The plans call out for a brass elbow and insert to attach a
plastic high pressure line from the master cylinders to the reservoir.
There is a plastic "T" fitting that attaches these plastic lines from
the right and left brakes to the reservoir.
In my finish kit, which was received late this summer, I do not have any
brass elbow fittings or inserts. Instead, I have two elbow plastic
fittings the same design as the "T" fitting for the reservoir.
Is this a design change from using the brass fittings? I am not
installing brakes on the copilot's side, so all I need is these two
plastic fittings. I have noticed on some websites that plastic elbows
were used on the copilot's side, but brass on the pilot's side.
I looked for the brass elbows and inserts on my parts list and found
them listed for bag 921-1. No such bag supplied with my kit, and no
such bag called out for in the shipping list.
Anyone else come upon this? I sure am tired of looking for parts that
aren't there!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2715.400" nameGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>List:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I am trying to get my brake lines
installed on the
pedal end of the system. The plans call out for a brass elbow and
insert
to attach a plastic high pressure line from the master cylinders to the
reservoir. There is a plastic "T" fitting that attaches these
plastic
lines from the right and left brakes to the reservoir.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>In my finish kit, which was received
late this
summer, I do not have any brass elbow fittings or inserts.
Instead, I have
two elbow plastic fittings the same design as the "T" fitting for the
reservoir.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Is this a design change from using the
brass
fittings? I am not installing brakes on the copilot's side, so all
I need
is these two plastic fittings. I have noticed on some websites
that
plastic elbows were used on the copilot's side, but brass on the pilot's
side.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>I looked for the brass elbows and
inserts on my
parts list and found them listed for bag 921-1. No such bag
supplied with
my kit, and no such bag called out for in the shipping
list.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Anyone else come upon this? I
sure am tired
of looking for parts that aren't there!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Jeff Orear</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>RV6A</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>finish kit</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT faceArial size2>Peshtigo, WI</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flap leading edge protection |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Harvey,
The stainless tape is still available. Excuse the long link...
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?Ntx=mode+matchallany&langId=-1&AID=1157440&Dx=mode+matchall&PID=1323201&productId=1194&CJURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jcwhitney.com%2F&catalogId=10101&TID=101&storeId=10101
Or go to www.jcwhitney.com and search for "stainless tape"
I think it is the 3 inch wide by 20 ft. roll that is applicable for $19.99
gil in Tucson
At 06:44 PM 10/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>
*** snip ***
> Of the two ideas I liked the Stainless Steel
>tape best, and if it was still available I would use it as my flap as it is
>beginning to show some scratches on the flap surfaces. My view only.
>Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N502-RV
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
<html>
<font size=3>Harvey,<br>
The stainless tape is still
available. Excuse the long link...<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?Ntx=mode+matchallany&langId=-1&AID=1157440&Dx=mode+matchall&PID=1323201&productId=1194&CJURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jcwhitney.com%2F&catalogId=10101&TID=101&storeId=10101" eudora="autourl">http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?Ntx=mode+matchallany&langId=-1&AID=1157440&Dx=mode+matchall&PID=1323201&productId=1194&CJURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jcwhitney.com%2F&catalogId=10101&TID=101&storeId=10101</a><br>
<br>
Or go to
<a href="http://www.jcwhitney.com/" eudora="autourl">www.jcwhitney.com</a>
and search for "stainless tape"<br>
<br>
I think it is the 3 inch wide by 20 ft. roll that is applicable for
$19.99<br>
<br>
gil in Tucson<br>
<br>
At 06:44 PM 10/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite>--> RV-List message posted by:
"Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net><br>
</font></blockquote><br>
*** snip ***<br>
<br>
<br>
<blockquote type=cite class=cite cite><font size=3> Of the two ideas
I liked the Stainless Steel<br>
tape best, and if it was still available I would use it as my flap
as it is<br>
beginning to show some scratches on the flap surfaces. My view
only.<br>
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N502-RV</blockquote>
<x-sigsep><p></x-sigsep>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...<br>
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ </font></html>
Message 38
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
Well I thought Id throw another 2 cents worth in for the Dynon.
Good news.:
1. I like the horizon feature, bank angles, and compass tape.
2. Install was easy. Bench flying was fun too.
Bad news:
1. I REALLY miss my true airspeed indicator on my Rocky mountain that I
removed. I used that number all the time like clockwork. Dyno needs to get
the OAT feature working soon.
2. They should have had a turn knob for setting baro pressure. All other
units setting numbers like that, like com, baro, vor or whatever, all use
turn knobs for a reason. The push button format is cumbersome and time
consuming. A single turn knob for setting items like heading bug, baro. and
other items in the unit would be very useful. I will not use the alt. info
on the unit for this reason. When buzzing along, all baro changes by ATC
require a quick entry. THe push buttons are not a good choice,.I am glad I
kept the alt., airspeed, and vsi steam gages on the panel.
3. I miss my audible alarms on my RMI that I removed. Dynon needs to get
audible alarms in for items like altitude, and airspeed ect. This would be a
simple feature to add and very useful to many pilots. There is nothing nicer
than setting an altitude with a turn knob, and an alarm to tell you when you
are +-50'.
Overall it is a keeper. Put OAT, and a simple knob, and an alarm and you
have a major winner.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive.
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Nylon brakeline fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
>List:
>
>I am trying to get my brake lines installed on the pedal end of the
>system. The plans call out for a brass elbow and insert to attach a
>plastic high pressure line from the master cylinders to the reservoir.
>There is a plastic "T" fitting that attaches these plastic lines from
>the right and left brakes to the reservoir.
>
>In my finish kit, which was received late this summer, I do not have any
>brass elbow fittings or inserts. Instead, I have two elbow plastic
>fittings the same design as the "T" fitting for the reservoir.
>
>Is this a design change from using the brass fittings? I am not
>installing brakes on the copilot's side, so all I need is these two
>plastic fittings. I have noticed on some websites that plastic elbows
>were used on the copilot's side, but brass on the pilot's side.
>
>I looked for the brass elbows and inserts on my parts list and found
>them listed for bag 921-1. No such bag supplied with my kit, and no
>such bag called out for in the shipping list.
>
>Anyone else come upon this? I sure am tired of looking for parts that
>aren't there!
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Jeff Orear
>RV6A
Scrap all that crap and use Swagelok fittings. They will NOT leak, and are
the ultimate in security for such a critical system. We use them
exclusively for plumbing very nasty chemicals and gases at Intel. Brass or
Stainless are fine for brake fluid. Find a seal and fitting store in your
town and go get 'em.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 40051
Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month
(depending on the local service providers in your area).
https://broadband.msn.com
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Oh, really now, we all know he meant to say aileron!
Jim Oke
Wpg, MB
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi Gary,
> You well have to explain this one to me. :-)
>
> Jerry
> do not archive
>
>
> Gary Zilik wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
> >
> >Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that
> >for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and
> >match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. This seemed to
> >work pretty good. I have manual flaps and use 10 deg of flaps when heavy
> >for takeoff. For landing my first flap notch is full. Get em down and
> >forget about em.
> >
> >Gary
> >
> >Gary
> >
> >czechsix@juno.com wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
> >>
> >>Guys,
> >>
> >>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
> >>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
> >>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
> >>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
> >>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
> >>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
> >>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
> >>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
> >>degree range?
> >>
> >>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to
work
> >>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
> >>
> >>Thanks!
> >>
> >>--Mark Navratil
> >>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >>RV-8A N2D painting...
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dynon report |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Thanks for the info. Exactly the kind of stuff I'm looking for.
Sounds like you are flying with it? How much latency is there in the values
displayed. In other words, does the heading tape lag behind the actual
heading by more than a second? Does the altitude, airspeed, etc seem too jumpy,
jittery, or late settling down or is everything look pretty "right now and
stable"?
Would you recommend using it without any steam gauges in the panel as well?
n a message dated 10/4/2003 11:05:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mstewart@qa.butler.com writes:
> Subj:RV-List: Dynon report
> Date:10/4/2003 11:05:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time
> From:<A HREF="mailto:mstewart@qa.butler.com">mstewart@qa.butler.com</A>
> Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:rv-list@matronics.com">rv-list@matronics.com</A>
> To:<A HREF="mailto:rv-list@matronics.com">rv-list@matronics.com</A>
> Sent from the Internet
>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com
>
> Well I thought Id throw another 2 cents worth in for the Dynon.
> Good news.:
> 1. I like the horizon feature, bank angles, and compass tape.
> 2. Install was easy. Bench flying was fun too.
>
> Bad news:
> 1. I REALLY miss my true airspeed indicator on my Rocky mountain that I
> removed. I used that number all the time like clockwork. Dyno needs to get
> the OAT feature working soon.
> 2. They should have had a turn knob for setting baro pressure. All other
> units setting numbers like that, like com, baro, vor or whatever, all use
> turn knobs for a reason. The push button format is cumbersome and time
> consuming. A single turn knob for setting items like heading bug, baro. and
> other items in the unit would be very useful. I will not use the alt. info
> on the unit for this reason. When buzzing along, all baro changes by ATC
> require a quick entry. THe push buttons are not a good choice,.I am glad I
> kept the alt., airspeed, and vsi steam gages on the panel.
> 3. I miss my audible alarms on my RMI that I removed. Dynon needs to get
> audible alarms in for items like altitude, and airspeed ect. This would be a
> simple feature to add and very useful to many pilots. There is nothing nicer
> than setting an altitude with a turn knob, and an alarm to tell you when you
> are +-50'.
>
> Overall it is a keeper. Put OAT, and a simple knob, and an alarm and you
> have a major winner.
> Mike Stewart
> Do not archive.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
<HTML><FONT FACEarial,helvetica><FONT SIZE2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" FACE=
"Arial" LANG"0">Thanks for the info. Exactly the kind of stuff I=
'm looking for.<BR>
<BR>
Sounds like you are flying with it? How much latency is there in the v=
alues displayed. In other words, does the heading tape lag behind the=20=
actual heading by more than a second? Does the altitude, airspeed, etc=
seem too jumpy, jittery, or late settling down or is everything look pretty=
"right now and stable"?<BR>
<BR>
Would you recommend using it without any steam gauges in the panel as well?<=
BR>
<BR>
n a message dated 10/4/2003 11:05:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mstewart@qa.b=
utler.com writes:<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPECITE style"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT=
: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj:<B>RV-List: Dynon report <=
/B><BR>
Date:10/4/2003 11:05:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time<BR>
From:<A HREF"mailto:mstewart@qa.butler.com">mstewart@qa.butler.com</A><BR=
>
Reply-to:<A HREF"mailto:rv-list@matronics.com">rv-list@matronics.com</A><=
BR>
To:<A HREF"mailto:rv-list@matronics.com">rv-list@matronics.com</A><BR>
<I>Sent from the Internet </I><BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com<BR>
<BR>
Well I thought Id throw another 2 cents worth in for the Dynon.<BR>
Good news.:<BR>
1. I like the horizon feature, bank angles, and compass tape. <BR>
2. Install was easy. Bench flying was fun too.<BR>
<BR>
Bad news:<BR>
1. I REALLY miss my true airspeed indicator on my Rocky mountain that I<BR>
removed. I used that number all the time like clockwork. Dyno needs to get<B=
R>
the OAT feature working soon.<BR>
2. They should have had a turn knob for setting baro pressure. All other<BR>
units setting numbers like that, like com, baro, vor or whatever, all use<BR=
>
turn knobs for a reason. The push button format is cumbersome and time<BR>
consuming. A single turn knob for setting items like heading bug, baro. and<=
BR>
other items in the unit would be very useful. I will not use the alt. info<B=
R>
on the unit for this reason. When buzzing along, all baro changes by ATC<BR>
require a quick entry. THe push buttons are not a good choice,.I am glad I<B=
R>
kept the alt., airspeed, and vsi steam gages on the panel.<BR>
3. I miss my audible alarms on my RMI that I removed. Dynon needs to get<BR>
audible alarms in for items like altitude, and airspeed ect. This would be a=
<BR>
simple feature to add and very useful to many pilots. There is nothing nicer=
<BR>
than setting an altitude with a turn knob, and an alarm to tell you when you=
<BR>
are +-50'.<BR>
<BR>
Overall it is a keeper. Put OAT, and a simple knob, and an alarm and you<BR>
have a major winner.<BR>
Mike Stewart<BR>
Do not archive.<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
=
<BR>
; - The RV-List Email Forum -<BR>
=
<BR>
BR>
=
<BR>
BR>
cs.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm<BR>
t<BR>
cs.com/archives<BR>
re<BR>
ts<BR>
=
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
</BLOCKQUOTE><BR>
<BR>
</FONT></HTML>
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
Gary,
I'm not sure that I'd want to fly with someone who's cranking elevators to
match the flaps.
Although, I bet the roll rate would kick butt.
Keith
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>
> Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that
> for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and
> match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator.
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: best oil filter cutter |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
-------------------------------1065327591
In a message dated 10/4/2003 8:33:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
Knicholas2@aol.com writes:
I want to get an oil filter cutter but there are several available. Which
one seems to work the best and is less messy?
I have the KRC1203 from Chief. It is inexpensive and works well.
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 650hrs)
-------------------------------1065327591
<HTML><HEAD>
tutf-8">
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1226" nameGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY style"FONT-SIZE: 8pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff=
">
<DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 10/4/2003 8:33:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Knichola=
s2@aol.com writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style"PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue=20=
2px solid"><FONT faceArial>I want to get an oil filter cutter but there a=
re several available. Which <BR>one seems to work the best and is less=
messy?</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face"Arial Narrow" size1>I have the KRC1203 from Chief.&nbs=
p; It is inexpensive and works well.</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT lang0 faceArial size2 FAMILY"SANSSERIF" PTSIZE"10"=
>-GV (RV-6A N1GV 650hrs)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-------------------------------1065327591--
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Flap Settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Yes, and that is why there is a smile emoticon at the end of my statement.
Jerry
do not archive
Jim Oke wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
>
>Oh, really now, we all know he meant to say aileron!
>
>Jim Oke
>Wpg, MB
>
>do not archive
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
>>
>>Hi Gary,
>>You well have to explain this one to me. :-)
>>
>>Jerry
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>Gary Zilik wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>>>
>>>Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that
>>>for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and
>>>match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. This seemed to
>>>work pretty good. I have manual flaps and use 10 deg of flaps when heavy
>>>for takeoff. For landing my first flap notch is full. Get em down and
>>>forget about em.
>>>
>>>Gary
>>>
>>>Gary
>>>
>>>czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>>>>
>>>>Guys,
>>>>
>>>>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have
>>>>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position.
>>>>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10
>>>>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better
>>>>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most
>>>>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done
>>>>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with
>>>>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15
>>>>degree range?
>>>>
>>>>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to
>>>>
>>>>
>work
>
>
>>>>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks!
>>>>
>>>>--Mark Navratil
>>>>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>>>>RV-8A N2D painting...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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