---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 10/04/03: 44 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 08:03 AM - Re: oil door (RV4PatA@aol.com) 2. 08:29 AM - RV Flap Settings (czechsix@juno.com) 3. 08:32 AM - best oil filter cutter (Knicholas2@aol.com) 4. 08:39 AM - Re: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders (Elsa & Henry) 5. 09:39 AM - Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle (Karie Daniel) 6. 09:45 AM - Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle (JusCash@aol.com) 7. 10:41 AM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Doug Weiler) 8. 11:10 AM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Jerry Springer) 9. 11:26 AM - Re: RV Flap Settings (RV8ter@aol.com) 10. 11:33 AM - Wing trailing edge fairing (PGLong@aol.com) 11. 12:02 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Brian Denk) 12. 12:49 PM - Question on PC (j1j2h3@juno.com) 13. 12:49 PM - C/S Prop (JNice51355@aol.com) 14. 01:06 PM - Re: Vans gauge lamps (BillDube@killacycle.com) 15. 02:33 PM - [ Jerry Calvert ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares) 16. 02:47 PM - Re: Duckworks landing light puzzle (Larry Bowen) 17. 02:48 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Larry Bowen) 18. 02:51 PM - Flap leading edge protection (Richard Dudley) 19. 03:19 PM - Previously owned RV-8 Kit (Jim Nolan) 20. 03:46 PM - Re: Flap leading edge protection (Harvey Sigmon) 21. 04:05 PM - Another completed RV-6 (DAVID DAVENPORT) 22. 04:16 PM - Re: Flap leading edge protection (Larry Bowen) 23. 04:21 PM - rivet gun psi (Radomir Zaric) 24. 05:12 PM - Re: rivet gun psi (Gert) 25. 05:12 PM - Re: Another completed RV-6 (Stein Bruch) 26. 05:41 PM - Re: Flap leading edge protection (Gary Zilik) 27. 05:41 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Gary Zilik) 28. 05:41 PM - Re: rivet gun psi (Gary Zilik) 29. 05:55 PM - Re: Another completed RV-6 (Charles Rowbotham) 30. 06:13 PM - Re: rivet gun psi (Stein Bruch) 31. 06:17 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Paul Besing) 32. 06:24 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (William Davis) 33. 06:36 PM - Re: rivet gun psi (Charlie & Tupper England) 34. 06:39 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Jerry Springer) 35. 06:46 PM - [Fw: Re: rivet gun psi] (More) (Charlie & Tupper England) 36. 07:22 PM - Nylon brakeline fittings (Jeff Orear) 37. 07:45 PM - Re: Flap leading edge protection (Gil Alexander) 38. 08:04 PM - Dynon report (mstewart@qa.butler.com) 39. 08:11 PM - Re: Nylon brakeline fittings (Brian Denk) 40. 08:12 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Jim Oke) 41. 08:47 PM - Re: Dynon report (RV8ter@aol.com) 42. 08:59 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (rv6tc) 43. 09:20 PM - Re: best oil filter cutter (Vanremog@aol.com) 44. 11:06 PM - Re: RV Flap Settings (Jerry Springer) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 08:03:00 AM PST US From: RV4PatA@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: oil door --> RV-List message posted by: RV4PatA@aol.com In a message dated 10/3/3 8:12:47 PM, RV6AOKC@aol.com writes: <<.anyone have ideas on how to cut the door out from the top cowl>> Kurt I used a hack saw blade on the straight part, and a round blade that fits into a hack saw to cut curved corners. It came out very nice. To start the cut, use the end teeth on the hack saw blade to work your way through the glass. Sounds harder than it is to do. Pat Allender RV-4 Iowa City Go Hawks ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 08:29:24 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: RV Flap Settings From: czechsix@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com Guys, I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 degree range? If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. Thanks! --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D painting... ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:32:40 AM PST US From: Knicholas2@aol.com Subject: RV-List: best oil filter cutter --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com I want to get an oil filter cutter but there are several available. Which one seems to work the best and is less messy? Kim Nicholas RV9A - almost done! Kent, WA ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:39:10 AM PST US From: "Elsa & Henry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Grounding & sealing SW fuel senders --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" > Has anyone had problems with the senders not grounding properly when sealed > with proseal (including dipping the screws in proseal)? I saw only one > message about this in the archives, and no one has posted about this in > several years. My $.02 worth: I also was concerned about the ground return for the senders and also by the sealing method of the cover plates, especially after seeing George Orndorf's video on the wing construction. He made a comment about some people using Pro-seal to seal it but would probably wreck the tank if you ever had to remove it. So I didn't. I just have the gasket with a small bead of fuel resistant sealant running around both sides of the gasket. This bead is spread in a circle inside the circle of the screws. The reinforcing plate with the platenuts is prosealed along its edges to the tank's rib to prevent gas weeping through between it and the rib. All the platenuts are capped with a small thimble and they are liberally prosealed. The net result is that no gas can weep down the screw threads and the screws provide the necessary ground . Cheers!!-----Henry Hore ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:39:51 AM PST US From: "Karie Daniel" Subject: Re: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" Larry, I just finished this job and the lens goes in fine. You have to bend the plexi sort of like trying to close an open clam shell and then slide it in. Sure its a little tight but completely doable. Make sure not to scratch the lens on the opening though. I put a little tape on the edge of the opening to make sure of this then removed it once the lens is in. It's a pretty flexible lens and it helps to warm it up a little first. Karie Daniel Vans RV-7A Sammamish, WA. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" > > I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't > get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is done > first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the solution to this > puzzle?? > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry@BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:45:20 AM PST US From: JusCash@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle --> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com -------------------------------1065285903 Use duct tape to hold the lens in position per the instructions Cash Copeland In a message dated 10/4/2003 9:40:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, karie4@comcast.net writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" Larry, I just finished this job and the lens goes in fine. You have to bend the plexi sort of like trying to close an open clam shell and then slide it in. Sure its a little tight but completely doable. Make sure not to scratch the lens on the opening though. I put a little tape on the edge of the opening to make sure of this then removed it once the lens is in. It's a pretty flexible lens and it helps to warm it up a little first. Karie Daniel Vans RV-7A Sammamish, WA. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" > > I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't > get the lense back through the hole to install. If the lense is done > first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the solution to this > puzzle?? > > - > Larry Bowen > Larry@BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > -------------------------------1065285903 tutf-8">
Use duct tape to hold the lens in position per the instructions
 
Cash Copeland
 
In a message dated 10/4/2003 9:40:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, karie4@c= omcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Danie= l" <karie4@comcast.net>

Larry,
I just finished this job and=20= the lens goes in fine. You have to bend the
plexi sort of like trying to=20= close an open clam shell and then slide it in.
Sure its a little tight bu= t completely doable. Make sure not to scratch the
lens on the opening tho= ugh.  I put a little tape on the edge of the opening
to make sure of= this then removed it once the lens is in.

It's a pretty flexible len= s and it helps to warm it up a little first.

Karie Daniel
Vans RV-= 7A
Sammamish, WA.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen"=20= <Larry@bowenaero.com>
To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
Subject:= RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle


> --> RV-List mess= age posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> I d= on't get it.  If the duckworks mount/reflector is in place, I can't
= > get the lense back through the hole to install.  If the lense is d= one
> first, I can't get to the mount screws.  What is the soluti= on to this
> puzzle??
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> La= rry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
-------------------------------1065285903-- ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:41:43 AM PST US From: "Doug Weiler" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" > > I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have > decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. > What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 > degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better > yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most > landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done > with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with > minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 > degree range? > > If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work > well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. > > Thanks! > > --Mark Navratil Personally I wouldn't go to the trouble. I always use full flaps for landing. These are not like Cessna flaps that induce a large amount of drag. I make no flap takeoffs except on grass there I will deflect the flaps equal to the down deflection of one aileron. Works fine. For landing, I use one half flaps on base leg (that takes 4 seconds or I just glance out and eye-ball it). Full flaps on final (another 4 seconds). Doug Weiler RV-4, N722DW, 82+ hours ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:10:19 AM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer I have to agree with Doug, it is so easy to glance out and see what the flap position is that trying to mark positions is not necessary IMO. Jerry do not archive Doug Weiler wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" > > > >>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have >>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. >>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 >>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better >>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most >>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done >>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with >>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 >>degree range? >> >>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work >>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. >> >>Thanks! >> >>--Mark Navratil >> >> > >Personally I wouldn't go to the trouble. I always use full flaps for >landing. These are not like Cessna flaps that induce a large amount of >drag. I make no flap takeoffs except on grass there I will deflect the >flaps equal to the down deflection of one aileron. Works fine. > >For landing, I use one half flaps on base leg (that takes 4 seconds or I >just glance out and eye-ball it). Full flaps on final (another 4 seconds). > >Doug Weiler >RV-4, N722DW, 82+ hours > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:26:15 AM PST US From: RV8ter@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com on a dark night no problem? thought a small dot of reflective tape would do wonders. on a dark night no problem?  thought a small dot=20= of reflective tape would do wonders. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:33:14 AM PST US From: PGLong@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Wing trailing edge fairing --> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com -------------------------------1065292372 Getting to the F-466 wing trailing edge fairing. The just over 90 degree bend doesn't fit the rounded portion of the fuselage. Am I to take some of the bend out so that the trailing edge does fit the radius of the fuselage or just leave another unfaired end to the piece? Pat Long PGLong@aol.com N924PL (reserved) Working on an RV4 Bay City, Michigan Do Not Archive -------------------------------1065292372 tutf-8">
Getting to the F-466 wing trailing edge fairing. The just over 90 degre= e bend doesn't fit the rounded portion of the fuselage. Am I to take some of= the bend out so that the trailing edge does fit the radius of the fuselage=20= or just leave another unfaired end to the piece?
 
 
 
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N924PL (reserved)
Working on an RV4
Bay= City, Michigan

Do Not Archive
-------------------------------1065292372-- ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 12:02:42 PM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > >--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > >Guys, > >I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have >decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. >What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 >degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better >yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most >landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done >with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with >minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 >degree range? > >If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work >well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. > >Thanks! > >--Mark Navratil >Cedar Rapids, Iowa >RV-8A N2D painting... Mark, I have no indicator whatsoever. I don't need one. I look out the window! I pop them down a bit for takeoff, and drop them all the way down for most landings. So there. Have fun! Brian Denk RV8 N94BD Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:49:12 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Question on PC From: j1j2h3@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com Hi Bert Your software will only work if you keep it updated . Most companies offer free updates if you keep your subscription current. Yeah, it's a pain and I hate to pay for an annual subscription, but it's a necessity if you use the web. Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin, Tennessee) Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: " bert murillo" Subject: RV-List: Question on P>C> > --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" > > Hi: > > Question on P>C>,,for the first time ever, I got a > virus on my P>c. > > My P.c. has the program Mccaffe or someting like > that, which suppose to prevent this... > > For those who have had this experience, what is > the best way to clear this? > > It is a real pain.... > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:49:12 PM PST US From: JNice51355@aol.com Subject: RV-List: C/S Prop at.a.big.ISP@matronics.com --> RV-List message posted by: JNice51355@aol.com Folks Not sure if this is of any use, since I plan a fixed pitch, but there is a c/s prop on ebay that came off of a Malibu Mirage. It's an HC-12YR-1BF. The "buy it now" price is $1370.00 Jim Nice WA State Folks
Not sure if this is of any use, since I plan a fixed pitch, but there is a c= /s prop on ebay that came off of a Malibu Mirage.  It's an HC-12YR-1BF.=   The "buy it now" price is
$1370.00
Jim Nice
WA State ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:06:27 PM PST US From: "BillDube@killacycle.com" Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans gauge lamps --> RV-List message posted by: "BillDube@killacycle.com" At 02:43 PM 10/3/03, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips > >Attempting to achieve a total-LED panel, I am trying to convert >(pervert?) Vans fuel gauges to accept LEDs without much success. >Problem is the lamps must radiate 360 degrees around the axis of the >lamp holder to do much good. Has anyone experimented with using >diffuse-lense high intensity red LEDs for this? Any thoughts on if it >would even work? Perhaps you could put little reflective cones at the tip of each LED. You could make them out of aluminum (or anything shiny) and place them in the lamp holder ahead of the LED. They sell some pretty wide angle white LEDs. I've seen as large as 170, but 50 degrees is not uncommon. Wider angle would be better for this application. Bill Dube http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:33:02 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: [ Jerry Calvert ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! From: Email List Photo Shares --> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Jerry Calvert Subject: Oil Door http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rv6@cox.net.10.04.2003/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures@matronics.com ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:47:21 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" Once I trimmed it 'almost to the retaining strip' it fit fine. Just like the instructions said it would. RTFM.... Thanks, - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Karie Daniel [mailto:karie4@comcast.net] > Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 12:39 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" > > Larry, > I just finished this job and the lens goes in fine. You have > to bend the plexi sort of like trying to close an open clam > shell and then slide it in. Sure its a little tight but > completely doable. Make sure not to scratch the lens on the > opening though. I put a little tape on the edge of the > opening to make sure of this then removed it once the lens is in. > > It's a pretty flexible lens and it helps to warm it up a little first. > > Karie Daniel > Vans RV-7A > Sammamish, WA. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Larry Bowen" > To: > Subject: RV-List: Duckworks landing light puzzle > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" > > > > I don't get it. If the duckworks mount/reflector is in > place, I can't > > get the lense back through the hole to install. If the > lense is done > > first, I can't get to the mount screws. What is the > solution to this > > puzzle?? > > > > - > > Larry Bowen > > Larry@BowenAero.com > > http://BowenAero.com ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 02:48:17 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" I have a (flap marking) dream: Mark the inboard end of the flap at the top wing skin with the flaps up. Lower the flaps completely and mark the flap at the outboard end at the wing skin. Connect the two marks, giving you a diagonal line. Above/forward of the line paint safety orange/red/whatever -- some contrasting color. As the flap are lowered the colored area grows and progresses outboard. If it's halfway out, you have half flaps. Etc. This seems really cool and clever in my mind's eye. Are there any drawbacks? Not really what you were asking for, but I thought I would share anyway. - Larry Bowen, RV-8 forever finishing ... Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: czechsix@juno.com [mailto:czechsix@juno.com] > Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 11:30 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RV Flap Settings > > > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > > Guys, > > I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I > have decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to > show position. > What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have > markings every 10 degrees, or just a single mark for the > "half flaps" position? Or better yet, a mark for the typical > takeoff position? Seems to me that most landings will be > done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done with > either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift > with minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere > in the 10-15 degree range? > > If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that > seem to work well for best performance, I'd appreciate > knowing what they are. > > Thanks! > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D painting... ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:51:24 PM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Listers, The leading edge of the flap on the RV-6/A (and probably all other RV's) is tight against the underside of the top skin of the wing. It drags on that top skin as the flaps are lowered. I have seen flap leading edges covered by a metal foil and by a white polymer that Van sells as UHMW tape as a replacement for the metal foil. My question is: has anyone tried applying the UMHW tape to the underside of the wing skin rather than to the flap? What were the results? Does it protect the paint on the flap? Thanks in advance. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A final details ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 03:19:24 PM PST US From: "Jim Nolan" Subject: RV-List: Previously owned RV-8 Kit --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Nolan" Listers, I've got a RV-8 empennage kit for sale. I've decided to go with a RV-7 for my old age. I ordered the RV-7 empennage kit Friday. So, the RV-8 empennage kit is for sale. The horizontal is done. Fair workmanship if I do say so myself, and the vertical is started. I'm going out to the hanger this evening to start inventorying the parts. ( I have them in plastic drawers now.) I want $900.00 for the kit. I don't want to ship the empennage so you have to come here to get it. I'll put you up for the night, feed you and entertain you. You can't beat that. I live in Warsaw, Indiana (north central Indiana) Jim Nolan N444JN
Listers,
    I've got a RV-8 empennage kit for sale. I've decided to go with a RV-7 for my old age. I ordered the RV-7 empennage kit Friday. So, the RV-8 empennage kit is for sale. The horizontal is done. Fair workmanship if I do say so myself, and the vertical is started. I'm going out to the hanger this evening to start inventorying the parts. ( I have them in plastic drawers now.) I want $900.00 for the kit. I don't want to ship the empennage so you have to come here to get it. I'll put you up for the night, feed you and entertain you. You can't beat that. I live in Warsaw, Indiana (north central Indiana)
Jim Nolan
N444JN
________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:46:51 PM PST US From: "Harvey Sigmon" Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection --> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" Richard: Regarding your question about the tape on the underside of the wing to protect the wing flaps. I have UHMA tape on the underside of the wing on my present RV, as Van suggested. After several hundred hours it is showing some marks on the flaps. My previous RV-6 I used the Stainless tape on the flap surface which was hid when the flaps were up. After 400 hours no wear was noted on the tape. Of the two ideas I liked the Stainless Steel tape best, and if it was still available I would use it as my flap as it is beginning to show some scratches on the flap surfaces. My view only. Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N502-RV ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Dudley" Subject: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection > --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley > > Listers, > > The leading edge of the flap on the RV-6/A (and probably all other RV's) > is tight against the underside of the top skin of the wing. It drags on > that top skin as the flaps are lowered. > > I have seen flap leading edges covered by a metal foil and by a white > polymer that Van sells as UHMW tape as a replacement for the metal foil. > > My question is: has anyone tried applying the UMHW tape to the underside > of the wing skin rather than to the flap? What were the results? Does it > protect the paint on the flap? > > Thanks in advance. > > Regards, > > Richard Dudley > -6A final details > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 04:05:53 PM PST US From: "DAVID DAVENPORT" Subject: RV-List: Another completed RV-6 --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on Thursday, October 2. For those of you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an older slow-build from back in the days when you had to drill everything. These newer guys don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a Sensenich prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty straight forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test period knocked out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.
Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on Thursday, October 2. For those of you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an older slow-build from back in the days when you had to drill everything. These newer guys don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a Sensenich prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty straight forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test period knocked out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.
 
 
 
________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 04:16:13 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" The rule-of-thumb I remember is you put the tape on the surface you don't want scratched. Eventually you'll get some dust or dirt in there and the opposing surface will be scuffed... - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Richard Dudley [mailto:rhdudley@att.net] > Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2003 5:48 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley > > Listers, > > The leading edge of the flap on the RV-6/A (and probably all > other RV's) is tight against the underside of the top skin of > the wing. It drags on that top skin as the flaps are lowered. > > I have seen flap leading edges covered by a metal foil and by > a white polymer that Van sells as UHMW tape as a replacement > for the metal foil. > > My question is: has anyone tried applying the UMHW tape to > the underside of the wing skin rather than to the flap? What > were the results? Does it protect the paint on the flap? > > Thanks in advance. > > Regards, > > Richard Dudley > -6A final details ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:21:23 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: rivet gun psi From: "Radomir Zaric" --> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" Hey guys, I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets etc.. So, I have two questions: 1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet, everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with that swivel regulator? 2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it - well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than 80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun) Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something - but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-) Thanks! Radomir Charlotte, NC RV-7A Emp.

Hey guys,

 

I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets etc..   So, I have two questions:

 

1)     Most of the builders’ sites I’ve seen, I haven’t noticed anyone with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere “near” the gun.  Yet, everyone’ s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with that swivel regulator?

2)     I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it – well, since I’ve seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won’t even “fire” when set to that pressure.. actually it won’t “fire” at anything less than 80-85psi (per that gauge)…   Would anyone know what I might be doing wrong?  (It’s a Taylor 2x gun)

 

 

Now, back to a real-beginner’s question J  I must be missing something – but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple).  Am I to figure this from the drawings?  Sorry if this qualifies as “dumbest question yet” J

 

Thanks!

 

Radomir

Charlotte, NC

RV-7A Emp.

________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 05:12:20 PM PST US From: Gert Subject: Re: RV-List: rivet gun psi --> RV-List message posted by: Gert Radomir There are two kinds of regulators, pressure and volume. The pressure of 55 psi is set at the regulator with the gauge on, it will set the force of the blow and within reason will try to maintain the pressure at 55 psi regardless of volume (if the volume is within the regulator specs) so the gun will chatter away as fast as it can. The regulator in the swivel, if yours is like mine, regulates an amount of air (yes, it does INDIRECTLY affect the pressure at the gun). It would slow down the amount of strokes you get from the rivet gun because the volume of air is restricted. TOO much restriction and the air will bleed out of the gun faster than the air can move through the swivel and hence never build up pressure to start with. try the swivel all the way open and then play with the pressure till you are happy with the force of the blow. Then close the swivel regulator sloooowly till the strokes slow down a bit. From experience with the rivet gun I worked with, it sometimes appears gummed up or so and I have to drip airtool oil in it. that will make the mechanism go better (read: at lower pressures). Also, in the cold months it not always wants to work in the nether regions of the working pressure. I have a piece of (soft) wood I use to set the airpressure. I press the gun with the rivet set I am going to use and regulate the air pressure till I have the right 'feel'. If needed I tweak the swivel regulator so it slows down the blows to minimize walking of the buckingbar or rivet set. Hope this helps Gert Radomir Zaric wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" > > > Hey guys, > > > I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets > etc.. So, I have two questions: > > > 1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone > with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet, > everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with > that swivel regulator? > > 2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it - > well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for > shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set > to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than > 80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing > wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun) > > > Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something > - but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head > goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from > the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-) > > > Thanks! > > > Radomir > > Charlotte, NC > > RV-7A Emp. > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'>Hey guys,

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'> 

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'>I keep reading about setting different psi for > different > size rivets etc..   So, I have two > questions:

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'> 

> >

style'margin-left:25.5pt;text-indent:-.25in'> faceVerdana> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>1) face"Times New Roman"> Roman"'>     > style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>Most of the builders’ sites I’ve > seen, > I haven’t noticed anyone with a pressure gauge (manometer?) > anywhere “near” > the gun.  Yet, everyone’ s referring to 55psi etc.. How do > you know > what you set with that swivel regulator?

> >

style'margin-left:25.5pt;text-indent:-.25in'> faceVerdana> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>2) face"Times New Roman"> Roman"'>     > style'font-size: > 10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>I got one of those regulators that has a > pressure > gauge on it – well, since I’ve seen references to setting > 55psi (or > even less) for shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won’t > even “fire” > when set to that pressure.. actually it won’t “fire” > at > anything less than 80-85psi (per that gauge)…   Would > anyone > know what I might be doing wrong?  (It’s a Taylor 2x > gun)

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'> 

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'> 

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'>Now, back to a real-beginner’s question > size2 faceWingdings> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>J size2 faceVerdana> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>  I > must be missing something – but when it comes to spars, how do I > determine which side factory head goes on (and ultimately, which way to > dimple).  Am I to figure this from the drawings?  Sorry if > this > qualifies as “dumbest question yet” size2 > faceWingdings> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Wingdings'>J

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'> 

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'>Thanks!

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'> 

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'>Radomir

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'>Charlotte faceVerdana> style'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Verdana'>, NC

> >

style'font-size:10.0pt; > font-family:Verdana'>RV-7A Emp.

> >
> > > > > > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:12:23 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Another completed RV-6 --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Hi David, A well Deserved Congratulations. Those of us who have built the "super slow build" kits can truly appreciate your accomplishment! WAY TO GO - Happy Flying, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis http://www.steinair.com do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID DAVENPORT Subject: RV-List: Another completed RV-6 --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on Thursday, October 2. For those of you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an older slow-build from back in the days when you had to drill everything. These newer guys don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a Sensenich prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty straight forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test period knocked out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.
Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on Thursday, October 2. For those of you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an older slow-build from back in the days when you had to drill everything. These newer guys don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a Sensenich prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty straight forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test period knocked out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.
 
 
 
________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:41:03 PM PST US From: Gary Zilik Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik For some reason I put it on both surfaces. If you only put it only on the bottom side of the skin dirt will get in and scratch the paint on the flap. Of course this can only be seen with the flaps down. Gary Richard Dudley wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley > >Listers, > >The leading edge of the flap on the RV-6/A (and probably all other RV's) >is tight against the underside of the top skin of the wing. It drags on >that top skin as the flaps are lowered. > >I have seen flap leading edges covered by a metal foil and by a white >polymer that Van sells as UHMW tape as a replacement for the metal foil. > >My question is: has anyone tried applying the UMHW tape to the underside >of the wing skin rather than to the flap? What were the results? Does it >protect the paint on the flap? > >Thanks in advance. > >Regards, > >Richard Dudley >-6A final details > > > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 05:41:03 PM PST US From: Gary Zilik Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. This seemed to work pretty good. I have manual flaps and use 10 deg of flaps when heavy for takeoff. For landing my first flap notch is full. Get em down and forget about em. Gary Gary czechsix@juno.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > >Guys, > >I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have >decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. >What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 >degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better >yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most >landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done >with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with >minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 >degree range? > >If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work >well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. > >Thanks! > >--Mark Navratil >Cedar Rapids, Iowa >RV-8A N2D painting... > > > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 05:41:03 PM PST US From: Gary Zilik Subject: Re: RV-List: rivet gun psi --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik Hey guys, >1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone >with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet, >everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with >that swivel regulator? > The swivel regulator only regulates the amount of air to the gun. It has no effect on pressure. Use the swivel to adjust the speed of the hits. The regulator on the air compressor regulates pressure. > >2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it - >well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for >shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set >to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than >80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing >wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun) > Sometimes mine missfires but always goes. That is a sign that it needs cleaning. (works for me) I have no experience with a Taylor gun. > > >Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something >- but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head >goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from >the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-) > I'm not quite sure I understand the question. I do know that the female die goes on the inside of the skin and the male on the outside. you want the dimple going to the inside. On my slow build 6A I countersunk everything on the empenage cept for the rudder and elevators. > > >Thanks! > > >Radomir > >Charlotte, NC > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 05:55:58 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: Another completed RV-6 --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" David, CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "DAVID DAVENPORT" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Another completed RV-6 >Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2003 19:05:38 -0400 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID DAVENPORT" > > >Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on Thursday, October 2. For those of >you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an older slow-build from >back in the days when you had to drill everything. These newer guys >don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a Sensenich >prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty >straight forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test >period knocked out and see you guys at Lakeland in April. > > > > > > > >
Kit # 23811 flew for the first time on >Thursday, >October 2. For those of you keeping up with serial #'s, yes, this is an >older >slow-build from back in the days when you had to drill everything. These >newer >guys don't know what they are missing. The plane has an O-320 w/ a >Sensenich >prop, full IFR panel w/ autopilot. Everything looks like it is pretty >straight >forward from the first two or three flights. I'll get this test period >knocked >out and see you guys at Lakeland in April.
>
 
>
 
>
 
> > ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:13:54 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: rivet gun psi --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" This brings up the same old debate. Here's what I do. I have a very good brass regulator on my rivet gun, and leave my shop air at 120psi. You'll see that most experienced sheet metal guys don't give a hoot about pressures. The process....you shoot the rivet gun onto a piece of wood or something for a split second while adjusting the pressure knob on the gun. When it feels right for the size of rivet and set you are using, go riveting. The problem I have with adjusting the air at the compressor is as follows: 1) If you adjust it at the compressor, you still don't truly know what the pressure at the gun is becuase of line loss. 2) Pressure at the gun is next to meaningless. Different guns require different pressures for the same task. 3) Quickly changine sets becomes and issue. Flush, Spoon, or Mushroom sets take more "bang" than straight sets. 4) If you're doing things like fuselage skins that may have both #3 & #4 rivets, It's nice to change the pressure quickly. 5) If you need to drill out a rivet it's nice to have the pressure cranked up for the drill. I think I'll start selling the high quality brass valves on my site, as soon as I can get a good deal on them. I'll keep everyone posted when I do. Hope this helps, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis http://www.steinair.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Radomir Zaric Subject: RV-List: rivet gun psi --> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" Hey guys, I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets etc.. So, I have two questions: 1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet, everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with that swivel regulator? 2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it - well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than 80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun) Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something - but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-) Thanks! Radomir Charlotte, NC RV-7A Emp.

Hey guys,

 

I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets etc..   So, I have two questions:

 

1)     Most of the builders’ sites I’ve seen, I haven’t noticed anyone with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere “near” the gun.  Yet, everyone’ s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with that swivel regulator?

2)     I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it – well, since I’ve seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won’t even “fire” when set to that pressure.. actually it won’t “fire” at anything less than 80-85psi (per that gauge)…   Would anyone know what I might be doing wrong?  (It’s a Taylor 2x gun)

 

 

Now, back to a real-beginner’s question J  I must be missing something – but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple).  Am I to figure this from the drawings?  Sorry if this qualifies as “dumbest question yet” J

 

Thanks!

 

Radomir

Charlotte, NC

RV-7A Emp.

________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 06:17:00 PM PST US From: "Paul Besing" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" Agreed here to. I had a position sensor (MAC LED type, looked really cool) but thought it was useless. I focused too much on it, and it kept my eyes from being outside. It didn't really matter how much was down, I just went by feel and by looking outside. After 20 hours of flying *your* airplane (really cool, BTW) you will know exactly how much flaps to use on most normal approaches and landings. I used to bump a little more in just before touchdown if it was a floater. If I were to do it again (and I will) I'd leave out the position sensor. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold RV-10 Soon http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings > --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > > > >Guys, > > > >I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have > >decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. > >What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 > >degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better > >yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most > >landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done > >with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with > >minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 > >degree range? > > > >If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work > >well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. > > > >Thanks! > > > >--Mark Navratil > >Cedar Rapids, Iowa > >RV-8A N2D painting... > > Mark, > > I have no indicator whatsoever. I don't need one. I look out the window! I > pop them down a bit for takeoff, and drop them all the way down for most > landings. > > So there. > > Have fun! > > Brian Denk > RV8 N94BD > > Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your existing Internet access and enjoy > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 06:24:51 PM PST US From: "William Davis" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" Mark, In almost all cases, takeoff flaps are unnecessary in an RV and to use them invites damage to the flaps from stones, etc. thrown back by the prop blast. Bill, RV-8, Tiger-Kat ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: RV Flap Settings > --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > > Guys, > > I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have > decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. > What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 > degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better > yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most > landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done > with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with > minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 > degree range? > > If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work > well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. > > Thanks! > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D painting... > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 06:36:02 PM PST US From: Charlie & Tupper England Subject: Re: RV-List: rivet gun psi --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England Radomir Zaric wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" > > >Hey guys, > > >I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets >etc.. So, I have two questions: > > >1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone >with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet, >everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with >that swivel regulator? > >2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it - >well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for >shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set >to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than >80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing >wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun) > > >Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something >- but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head >goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from >the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-) > > >Thanks! > > >Radomir > >Charlotte, NC > >RV-7A Emp. > Hi Radomir, You are right; every compressor/regulator/hose/gun regulator/gun combination is different, so pressure numbers are very rough approximations. Test on scrap & then use the pressure that's comfortable for you. If your spar question is about the tail kit spars, I applied an old buisiness course planning technique: I used the 'best worst case scenario' planning technique. I put the factory head on the side that was easiest to drill out if I messed up the rivet. :-) If this is poor technique, hopefully someone with more experience than us will offer their wisdom. Just wait till you get to the instruction that tells you the countersunk head can go on either side.... Charlie ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 06:39:25 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer Hi Gary, You well have to explain this one to me. :-) Jerry do not archive Gary Zilik wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik > >Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that >for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and >match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. This seemed to >work pretty good. I have manual flaps and use 10 deg of flaps when heavy >for takeoff. For landing my first flap notch is full. Get em down and >forget about em. > >Gary > >Gary > >czechsix@juno.com wrote: > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com >> >>Guys, >> >>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have >>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. >>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 >>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better >>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most >>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done >>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with >>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 >>degree range? >> >>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work >>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. >> >>Thanks! >> >>--Mark Navratil >>Cedar Rapids, Iowa >>RV-8A N2D painting... >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 06:46:03 PM PST US From: Charlie & Tupper England Subject: [Fwd: Re: RV-List: rivet gun psi] (More) --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Re: RV-List: rivet gun psi From: Charlie & Tupper England Radomir Zaric wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" > > >Hey guys, > > >I keep reading about setting different psi for different size rivets >etc.. So, I have two questions: > > >1) Most of the builders' sites I've seen, I haven't noticed anyone >with a pressure gauge (manometer?) anywhere "near" the gun. Yet, >everyone' s referring to 55psi etc.. How do you know what you set with >that swivel regulator? > >2) I got one of those regulators that has a pressure gauge on it - >well, since I've seen references to setting 55psi (or even less) for >shooting rivets, I tried that.. and the gun won't even "fire" when set >to that pressure.. actually it won't "fire" at anything less than >80-85psi (per that gauge)... Would anyone know what I might be doing >wrong? (It's a Taylor 2x gun) > > >Now, back to a real-beginner's question :-) I must be missing something >- but when it comes to spars, how do I determine which side factory head >goes on (and ultimately, which way to dimple). Am I to figure this from >the drawings? Sorry if this qualifies as "dumbest question yet" :-) > > >Thanks! > > >Radomir > >Charlotte, NC > >RV-7A Emp. > Hi Radomir, You are right; every compressor/regulator/hose/gun regulator/gun combination is different, so pressure numbers are very rough approximations. Test on scrap & then use the pressure that's comfortable for you. If your spar question is about the tail kit spars, I applied an old buisiness course planning technique: I used the 'best worst case scenario' planning technique. I put the factory head on the side that was easiest to drill out if I messed up the rivet. :-) If this is poor technique, hopefully someone with more experience than us will offer their wisdom. Just wait till you get to the instruction that tells you the countersunk head can go on either side.... Charlie Just reread your question. If you are talking about the spar FLANGE, then you dimple with the male die on the outside of the flange so that the skin dimple will nest into it. If you are talking about the 1/8" round head rivets that are internal, then my statement above would apply (at least for me) & there wouldn't be any dimpling. Except for that one 3/16" internal rivet where they give you a choice of countersink sides.... (Yes, I finally figured out WHY they said that in the plans.) Charlie ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 07:22:54 PM PST US From: "Jeff Orear" Subject: RV-List: Nylon brakeline fittings --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" List: I am trying to get my brake lines installed on the pedal end of the system. The plans call out for a brass elbow and insert to attach a plastic high pressure line from the master cylinders to the reservoir. There is a plastic "T" fitting that attaches these plastic lines from the right and left brakes to the reservoir. In my finish kit, which was received late this summer, I do not have any brass elbow fittings or inserts. Instead, I have two elbow plastic fittings the same design as the "T" fitting for the reservoir. Is this a design change from using the brass fittings? I am not installing brakes on the copilot's side, so all I need is these two plastic fittings. I have noticed on some websites that plastic elbows were used on the copilot's side, but brass on the pilot's side. I looked for the brass elbows and inserts on my parts list and found them listed for bag 921-1. No such bag supplied with my kit, and no such bag called out for in the shipping list. Anyone else come upon this? I sure am tired of looking for parts that aren't there! Regards, Jeff Orear RV6A finish kit Peshtigo, WI
List:
 
I am trying to get my brake lines installed on the pedal end of the system.  The plans call out for a brass elbow and insert to attach a plastic high pressure line from the master cylinders to the reservoir.  There is a plastic "T" fitting that attaches these plastic lines from the right and left brakes to the reservoir.
 
In my finish kit, which was received late this summer, I do not have any brass elbow fittings or inserts.  Instead, I have two elbow plastic fittings the same design as the "T" fitting for the reservoir.
 
Is this a design change from using the brass fittings?  I am not installing brakes on the copilot's side, so all I need is these two plastic fittings.  I have noticed on some websites that plastic elbows were used on the copilot's side, but brass on the pilot's side.
 
I looked for the brass elbows and inserts on my parts list and found them listed for bag 921-1.  No such bag supplied with my kit, and no such bag called out for in the shipping list.
 
Anyone else come upon this?  I sure am tired of looking for parts that aren't there!
 
 
Regards,
 
Jeff Orear
RV6A
finish kit
Peshtigo, WI
________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 07:45:03 PM PST US From: Gil Alexander Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap leading edge protection --> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander Harvey, The stainless tape is still available. Excuse the long link... http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?Ntx=mode+matchallany&langId=-1&AID=1157440&Dx=mode+matchall&PID=1323201&productId=1194&CJURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jcwhitney.com%2F&catalogId=10101&TID=101&storeId=10101 Or go to www.jcwhitney.com and search for "stainless tape" I think it is the 3 inch wide by 20 ft. roll that is applicable for $19.99 gil in Tucson At 06:44 PM 10/4/2003 -0400, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" *** snip *** > Of the two ideas I liked the Stainless Steel >tape best, and if it was still available I would use it as my flap as it is >beginning to show some scratches on the flap surfaces. My view only. >Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N502-RV RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall... 77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ Harvey,
        The stainless tape is still available.  Excuse the long link...

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?Ntx=mode+matchallany&langId=-1&AID=1157440&Dx=mode+matchall&PID=1323201&productId=1194&CJURL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jcwhitney.com%2F&catalogId=10101&TID=101&storeId=10101

Or go to  www.jcwhitney.com   and search for "stainless tape"

I think it is the 3 inch wide by 20 ft. roll that is applicable for $19.99

         gil in Tucson

At 06:44 PM 10/4/2003 -0400, you wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Harvey Sigmon" <rv6hes@comcast.net>

*** snip ***


 Of the two ideas I liked the Stainless Steel
tape best, and if it  was still available I would use it as my flap as it is
beginning to show some scratches on the flap surfaces. My view only.
Harvey Sigmon RV-6A N502-RV

RV-6A,  #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger   N28478  at 57AZ ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 08:04:34 PM PST US From: mstewart@qa.butler.com Subject: RV-List: Dynon report --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com Well I thought Id throw another 2 cents worth in for the Dynon. Good news.: 1. I like the horizon feature, bank angles, and compass tape. 2. Install was easy. Bench flying was fun too. Bad news: 1. I REALLY miss my true airspeed indicator on my Rocky mountain that I removed. I used that number all the time like clockwork. Dyno needs to get the OAT feature working soon. 2. They should have had a turn knob for setting baro pressure. All other units setting numbers like that, like com, baro, vor or whatever, all use turn knobs for a reason. The push button format is cumbersome and time consuming. A single turn knob for setting items like heading bug, baro. and other items in the unit would be very useful. I will not use the alt. info on the unit for this reason. When buzzing along, all baro changes by ATC require a quick entry. THe push buttons are not a good choice,.I am glad I kept the alt., airspeed, and vsi steam gages on the panel. 3. I miss my audible alarms on my RMI that I removed. Dynon needs to get audible alarms in for items like altitude, and airspeed ect. This would be a simple feature to add and very useful to many pilots. There is nothing nicer than setting an altitude with a turn knob, and an alarm to tell you when you are +-50'. Overall it is a keeper. Put OAT, and a simple knob, and an alarm and you have a major winner. Mike Stewart Do not archive. ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 08:11:38 PM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: Re: RV-List: Nylon brakeline fittings --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > > >List: > >I am trying to get my brake lines installed on the pedal end of the >system. The plans call out for a brass elbow and insert to attach a >plastic high pressure line from the master cylinders to the reservoir. >There is a plastic "T" fitting that attaches these plastic lines from >the right and left brakes to the reservoir. > >In my finish kit, which was received late this summer, I do not have any >brass elbow fittings or inserts. Instead, I have two elbow plastic >fittings the same design as the "T" fitting for the reservoir. > >Is this a design change from using the brass fittings? I am not >installing brakes on the copilot's side, so all I need is these two >plastic fittings. I have noticed on some websites that plastic elbows >were used on the copilot's side, but brass on the pilot's side. > >I looked for the brass elbows and inserts on my parts list and found >them listed for bag 921-1. No such bag supplied with my kit, and no >such bag called out for in the shipping list. > >Anyone else come upon this? I sure am tired of looking for parts that >aren't there! > > >Regards, > >Jeff Orear >RV6A Scrap all that crap and use Swagelok fittings. They will NOT leak, and are the ultimate in security for such a critical system. We use them exclusively for plumbing very nasty chemicals and gases at Intel. Brass or Stainless are fine for brake fluid. Find a seal and fitting store in your town and go get 'em. Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 40051 Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 08:12:42 PM PST US From: Jim Oke Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke Oh, really now, we all know he meant to say aileron! Jim Oke Wpg, MB do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Springer" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings > --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer > > Hi Gary, > You well have to explain this one to me. :-) > > Jerry > do not archive > > > Gary Zilik wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik > > > >Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that > >for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and > >match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. This seemed to > >work pretty good. I have manual flaps and use 10 deg of flaps when heavy > >for takeoff. For landing my first flap notch is full. Get em down and > >forget about em. > > > >Gary > > > >Gary > > > >czechsix@juno.com wrote: > > > > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > >> > >>Guys, > >> > >>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have > >>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. > >>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 > >>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better > >>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most > >>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done > >>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with > >>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 > >>degree range? > >> > >>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to work > >>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. > >> > >>Thanks! > >> > >>--Mark Navratil > >>Cedar Rapids, Iowa > >>RV-8A N2D painting... > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 08:47:34 PM PST US From: RV8ter@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon report --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com Thanks for the info. Exactly the kind of stuff I'm looking for. Sounds like you are flying with it? How much latency is there in the values displayed. In other words, does the heading tape lag behind the actual heading by more than a second? Does the altitude, airspeed, etc seem too jumpy, jittery, or late settling down or is everything look pretty "right now and stable"? Would you recommend using it without any steam gauges in the panel as well? n a message dated 10/4/2003 11:05:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mstewart@qa.butler.com writes: > Subj:RV-List: Dynon report > Date:10/4/2003 11:05:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time > From:mstewart@qa.butler.com > Reply-to:rv-list@matronics.com > To:rv-list@matronics.com > Sent from the Internet > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com > > Well I thought Id throw another 2 cents worth in for the Dynon. > Good news.: > 1. I like the horizon feature, bank angles, and compass tape. > 2. Install was easy. Bench flying was fun too. > > Bad news: > 1. I REALLY miss my true airspeed indicator on my Rocky mountain that I > removed. I used that number all the time like clockwork. Dyno needs to get > the OAT feature working soon. > 2. They should have had a turn knob for setting baro pressure. All other > units setting numbers like that, like com, baro, vor or whatever, all use > turn knobs for a reason. The push button format is cumbersome and time > consuming. A single turn knob for setting items like heading bug, baro. and > other items in the unit would be very useful. I will not use the alt. info > on the unit for this reason. When buzzing along, all baro changes by ATC > require a quick entry. THe push buttons are not a good choice,.I am glad I > kept the alt., airspeed, and vsi steam gages on the panel. > 3. I miss my audible alarms on my RMI that I removed. Dynon needs to get > audible alarms in for items like altitude, and airspeed ect. This would be a > simple feature to add and very useful to many pilots. There is nothing nicer > than setting an altitude with a turn knob, and an alarm to tell you when you > are +-50'. > > Overall it is a keeper. Put OAT, and a simple knob, and an alarm and you > have a major winner. > Mike Stewart > Do not archive. > > > > > > > Thanks for the info.  Exactly the kind of stuff I= 'm looking for.

Sounds like you are flying with it?  How much latency is there in the v= alues displayed.  In other words, does the heading tape lag behind the=20= actual heading by more than a second?  Does the altitude, airspeed, etc= seem too jumpy, jittery, or late settling down or is everything look pretty= "right now and stable"?

Would you recommend using it without any steam gauges in the panel as well?<= BR>
n a message dated 10/4/2003 11:05:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mstewart@qa.b= utler.com writes:


Subj:RV-List: Dynon report <= /B>
Date:10/4/2003 11:05:05 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From:mstewart@qa.butler.com Reply-to:rv-list@matronics.com<= BR> To:rv-list@matronics.com
Sent from the Internet



--> RV-List message posted by: mstewart@qa.butler.com

Well I thought Id throw another 2 cents worth in for the Dynon.
Good news.:
1. I like the horizon feature, bank angles, and compass tape.
2. Install was easy. Bench flying was fun too.

Bad news:
1. I REALLY miss my true airspeed indicator on my Rocky mountain that I
removed. I used that number all the time like clockwork. Dyno needs to get the OAT feature working soon.
2. They should have had a turn knob for setting baro pressure. All other
units setting numbers like that, like com, baro, vor or whatever, all use turn knobs for a reason. The push button format is cumbersome and time
consuming. A single turn knob for setting items like heading bug, baro. and<= BR> other items in the unit would be very useful. I will not use the alt. info on the unit for this reason. When buzzing along, all baro changes by ATC
require a quick entry. THe push buttons are not a good choice,.I am glad I kept the alt., airspeed, and vsi steam gages on the panel.
3. I miss my audible alarms on my RMI that I removed. Dynon needs to get
audible alarms in for items like altitude, and airspeed ect. This would be a=
simple feature to add and very useful to many pilots. There is nothing nicer=
than setting an altitude with a turn knob, and an alarm to tell you when you=
are +-50'.

Overall it is a keeper. Put OAT, and a simple knob, and an alarm and you
have a major winner.
Mike Stewart
Do not archive.


=
;  - The RV-List Email Forum -
=
BR> =
BR> cs.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
t
cs.com/archives
re
ts
=






________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 08:59:40 PM PST US From: "rv6tc" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" Gary, I'm not sure that I'd want to fly with someone who's cranking elevators to match the flaps. Although, I bet the roll rate would kick butt. Keith ----- Original Message ----- > --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik > > Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that > for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and > match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 09:20:30 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: best oil filter cutter --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com -------------------------------1065327591 In a message dated 10/4/2003 8:33:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Knicholas2@aol.com writes: I want to get an oil filter cutter but there are several available. Which one seems to work the best and is less messy? I have the KRC1203 from Chief. It is inexpensive and works well. -GV (RV-6A N1GV 650hrs) -------------------------------1065327591 tutf-8"> I want to get an oil filter cutter but there a= re several available.  Which
one seems to work the best and is less= messy?
I have the KRC1203 from Chief.&nbs= p; It is inexpensive and works well.
 
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 650hrs)
-------------------------------1065327591-- ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 11:06:12 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer Yes, and that is why there is a smile emoticon at the end of my statement. Jerry do not archive Jim Oke wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke > >Oh, really now, we all know he meant to say aileron! > >Jim Oke >Wpg, MB > >do not archive > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Jerry Springer" >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: RV Flap Settings > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer >> >>Hi Gary, >>You well have to explain this one to me. :-) >> >>Jerry >>do not archive >> >> >>Gary Zilik wrote: >> >> >> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik >>> >>>Indicators, who needs stinkin indicators. Ken Kruger once showed me that >>>for takoff settings he would crank the elevator all the way over and >>>match the flap position to the downward thrown elevator. This seemed to >>>work pretty good. I have manual flaps and use 10 deg of flaps when heavy >>>for takeoff. For landing my first flap notch is full. Get em down and >>>forget about em. >>> >>>Gary >>> >>>Gary >>> >>>czechsix@juno.com wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com >>>> >>>>Guys, >>>> >>>>I don't have a flap position indicator in my panel, instead I have >>>>decided to put a few marks on the flaps themselves to show position. >>>>What I'm wondering is if it really makes sense to have markings every 10 >>>>degrees, or just a single mark for the "half flaps" position? Or better >>>>yet, a mark for the typical takeoff position? Seems to me that most >>>>landings will be done with full flaps, and most takeoffs will be done >>>>with either no flaps at all, or a setting which gives added lift with >>>>minimal extra drag....I imagine this would be somewhere in the 10-15 >>>>degree range? >>>> >>>>If anybody has recommendations on takeoff flap settings that seem to >>>> >>>> >work > > >>>>well for best performance, I'd appreciate knowing what they are. >>>> >>>>Thanks! >>>> >>>>--Mark Navratil >>>>Cedar Rapids, Iowa >>>>RV-8A N2D painting... >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> > > > >