Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:04 AM - Re: cabin interior paint (Vincent Himsl)
2. 04:42 AM - Re: fire retardant (Mark Phillips)
3. 05:36 AM - Re: fire retardant (Wayne Reese)
4. 06:01 AM - Re: cabin interior paint (Larry Bowen)
5. 06:30 AM - Re: cabin interior paint (Jeff Dowling)
6. 06:33 AM - Re: Fire resistant seats (Gkb5577@aol.com)
7. 06:37 AM - Re: Primer Paint - RV10 (Dean Pichon)
8. 10:30 AM - Stability (Wheeler North)
9. 12:34 PM - ENGINES FOR SALE (engines)
10. 01:05 PM - Re: Stability (Doug Rozendaal)
11. 02:00 PM - Re: Stability (Laird Owens)
12. 02:15 PM - Checkered Tails (Scott Brown)
13. 02:23 PM - Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area (Michael Pilla)
14. 02:48 PM - EZ-Pilot by Trio Avionics (Sam Buchanan)
15. 02:53 PM - Re: cabin interior paint (czechsix@juno.com)
16. 02:58 PM - CS Prop oil line options (czechsix@juno.com)
17. 03:41 PM - Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area ()
18. 05:02 PM - Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area (WFACT01@aol.com)
19. 06:00 PM - Weather...( long ) (austin)
20. 06:51 PM - Re: Checkered Tails (Kyle Boatright)
21. 07:08 PM - Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area (Michael Pilla)
22. 07:28 PM - API fuel pump current requirements? (Charlie Kuss)
23. 07:39 PM - Re: CS Prop oil line options (RV_8 Pilot)
24. 07:42 PM - Re: Weather...( long ) (Tedd McHenry)
25. 07:43 PM - Re: Weather...( long ) (Doug Rozendaal)
26. 08:01 PM - O-320 Parts (smoothweasel@juno.com)
27. 09:03 PM - Re: API fuel pump current requirements? (Dan Checkoway)
28. 09:39 PM - Re: API fuel pump current requirements? (Dave Bristol)
29. 11:15 PM - Re: CS Prop oil line options (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | cabin interior paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Hello,
IMO, one of the best posts to the list regarding this is by Dan Ward
8/15/02. ref: list archives Keywords Ward, Krylon, cockpit color, Faux
Granite... What follows is my implementation of the process he "invented".
MATERIALS:
It is a three step method using:
Krylon Smoke Gray Gloss - 1608
Krylon "Make it Stone" - Black Granite (textured paint...other colors
available)
Krylon Clear Coat - 1313 (or "Make it Last" Clear Coat)
I would add NAPA 7220 primer and NAPA 7234 cleaner.
PROCEDURE:
Take a piece of scrap aluminum, gouge it up, put in some rivets and then:
1. Clean with NAPA 7234 cleaner (or whatever you are using)
2. Spray with NAPA 7220 primer (tempo or other self etching will work fine)
3. Spray with Smoke Gray Gloss, wait a minute or two and then spray with the
'Black Granite'
4. Let dry a few minutes and then Spray with the Clear, let dry overnight.
5. Stand back and decide if you like it. Notice how it hides
imperfections(gouges) and the rivets! After letting it dry a couple of days,
gouge/scratch it again to simulate the inevitability of life and to get a
feel for its durability. Then retouch and notice the results again. You
might want to use a light source to help get a feel for its ability to
minimize reflections into the canopy.
COMMENT:
As Dan says in his post, the process "may sound difficult but it is really
easy".
I liked it so much I painted the complete interior with it. I have
subsequently had to touch up because of scratches, etc. but it blends in
together so well that you can't tell it is a touch up job. It is very
forgiving...runs, drips, and plenty of errors. And the best part, is that
you can do a big area or a small piece or two. Also it is readily available
locally, as in small town in Idaho.
My RV8 is still under construction (naturally) but I have had time to make
observations on the durability from the construction process which I believe
is much harsher than normal use. It scratches rather easily (rivet ground
in by twisting shoe), but its resistance to scuffing is pretty good. After
staring at it for awhile, I am still quite happy with it.
As for color matching, my interior is gray and I have different
shades/tones. But it doesn't matter as the combined total affect is pretty
good. My interior is different from the light blue/gray Powder coat from
Vans. I had the roll bar done in standard battle ship Gray powder coat to
minimize reflections, the panel will probably be slightly different, and the
interior fabric will most certainly not be an exact match. But! It will 'in
total' look great (so far). If you check out the interiors of newer cars,
you will notice this effect.
Sorry for long post, but the hour is late, and the compressor is low. I
suggest you also scan the list archives which contains at least 7 hours of
continuous reading on this subject.
Hope this helps
Vince Himsl
Moscow, Idaho USA
RV8-SB Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of thomas a. sargent
Subject: RV-List: cabin interior paint
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent"
--> <sarg314@earthlink.net>
What are people using for their interior cabin paint? I tested a spray
can of Tempo Aircraft Enamel.; I eventually figured out how to get a
reasonably good result (it tends to orange peel very easily), but the
shade of gray is wrong for my interior and it's only available in just a
few other colors.
I'd prefer something in a spray can. A paint that I'd have to use a
spray gun with is OK as long as it's something less lethal than an
isocyanate paint. I'd like to get by using just a common Home depot
respirator mask.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: fire retardant |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Bert-
As a practical matter, if my seats were anywhere near catching fire, I'm fairly
certain
that I would be a little too busy to worry about it... Besides, I'd NEVER let
a flame
get close to these lovely things DJ made for me, as I couldn't bear the thought
of all
that cowhide going up in smoke!! I'd say use whatever your eyes, fanny & wallet
are
happy with!
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
bert murillo wrote:
> Where can one get seats for our rv's, which
> meet the FAA specs. for fire retardant material?
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Reese" <waynereese@qwest.net>
Oregonaero
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bert murillo
Subject: RV-List: fire retardant
--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hello:
Where can one get seats for our rv's, which
meet the FAA specs. for fire retardant material?
I was surprise to find out, the people we know
such as Laurentis...that their seats, are not fire
retardant,,,,I am sure that there is not such a thing
as Fire proof, on seats.? I know, the material I have
on fire wall, as proctection is defenitely fire proof
did not burn, even with a solder torch...
Would like to hear comments...does any one feel
it is really important, to obtain the fabric for the
seats,, FAA approved? so where do you get this??
bert
rv6a
almost ready for wings....
Do Not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
==
==
==
==
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: cabin interior paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Sherwin-Williams 988 rattle can self etching primer under dark grey
Rustoleum "Hard Hat" rattle can enamel. So far it's holding up pretty
well.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 finishing
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
thomas a. sargent said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> What are people using for their interior cabin paint? I tested a spray
> can of Tempo Aircraft Enamel.; I eventually figured out how to get a
> reasonably good result (it tends to orange peel very easily), but the
> shade of gray is wrong for my interior and it's only available in just a
> few other colors.
>
> I'd prefer something in a spray can. A paint that I'd have to use a
> spray gun with is OK as long as it's something less lethal than an
> isocyanate paint. I'd like to get by using just a common Home depot
> respirator mask.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: cabin interior paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Ive been trying some appliance paint from Walmart. Very tough but limited
colors.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: cabin interior paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> What are people using for their interior cabin paint? I tested a spray
> can of Tempo Aircraft Enamel.; I eventually figured out how to get a
> reasonably good result (it tends to orange peel very easily), but the
> shade of gray is wrong for my interior and it's only available in just a
> few other colors.
>
> I'd prefer something in a spray can. A paint that I'd have to use a
> spray gun with is OK as long as it's something less lethal than an
> isocyanate paint. I'd like to get by using just a common Home depot
> respirator mask.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fire resistant seats |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
There are foams that meet your criteria: ask Oregon Aero for their catalog
(I've no financial ties to them)- I just got mine and it is full of a lot of
interesting photos and info as well as difficult to find items. Prices are a
little on the high side but they do have the research done. Does anyone know
what the chemical is that you can spray on things that makes it fire resistant?
It was discovered during the WWII .AO? Geoff
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Paint - RV10 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
After evaluating a number of primers, I selected a Deft water-reducible
epoxy for use on my -4. I have not found anything with similar adhesion or
toughness. An interesting test of a primer is to dimple a test panel after
priming and inspect the deformed area to see if the paint remains adhered.
As soon as I start a -10, I will etch, alodine, and prime (with
Deft)...again.
Good luck.
Dean Pichon
RV-4, 165 hrs
>From: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@Boeing.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Primer Paint - RV10
>Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 11:40:58 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Conti, Rick" <rick.conti@Boeing.com>
>
>I've heard there are two schools of thought for primer, 2 part epoxy or not
>2 part epoxy. I've decided to use the 2 part epoxy, but I have very little
>experience on which brand. I've heard Boeing makes a water based epoxy
>primer. Expensive and clean up is with water, but must be sure to dry the
>water.
>
>I have a gravity feed HVLP spray gun.
>
>Would anyone like to share their knowledge on epoxy primers? I'd also like
>to hear from the non-epoxy school to further my education.
>
>
>Thank You
>Rick Conti
>The Boeing Company
>office: 703 - 872 - 4602
> cell: 703 - 472 - 8592
>If you're looking for a cute saying....fuhgeddaboudit
>
>
Never get a busy signal because you are always connected with high-speed
Internet access. Click here to comparison-shop providers.
https://broadband.msn.com
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
There was some discussion yesterday about RV stability.
From what I have heard Van say and from my own experience in testing this
The RVs have neutral static stability on the lateral axis (roll), but are
very positively dynamically stable on this axis.
They have positive static stability in pitch and positive dynamic stability
in pitch, but this is less than the positive dynamic stablity of roll. As
one adds weight to the aircraft in seats or baggage, or removes weight from
the fuel tanks the aircraft becomes less positively stable in pitch both
static and dynamic.
That said, it says nothing about the short coupling of the tail feathers to
the CG and the short wings to the CG. It doesn't take much to cause a large
drift in either axis.
If I had a choice of which to put in first (which I did) it would be the
autopilot for the roll axis as I can go for 20 minutes or more in smooth air
without drifting more than 100 ft in altitude, but the change in fuel loads
requires aileron trimming every 5-10 minutes. (Ok so I've only found smooth
air twice in 60000nm of flight, I did get it to stay on altitude via trim
for awhile)
I also find it a lot easier to stay on track with the altimeter than with a
heading indicator in that one feels acceleration of the altitude/attitude
change more so than a heading change.
W
Message 9
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| Subject: | ENGINES FOR SALE |
--> RV-List message posted by: "engines" <engines@a-e-r-o.com>
I have available three new IO-360-M1A style engines for sale.Built using the Superior
engine kit. They are assembled ,test run,crated and ready to ship.You
can see these engines on our website listed below.We also sell the kits unassembled
in both Superior and ECI as well as all the accessories in kits or individually.
http://www.superflite.com/engstk.htm
Jesse Robinson
A.E.R.O. Inc
1-800-362-3044 ext 228
1-618-797-6630 ext 228
______________ ______________ ______________ ______________
Sent via the KillerWebMail system at a-e-r-o.com
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Keeping the wings level will dramatically increase the likelihood of the
airplane staying on its altitude. More importantly, a Roll A/P should be the
first choice because it will save your bacon if you have a vacuum failure,
or if a VFR pilot ends up in the soup.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
RV-4 Nav-aid, Alt-trak sitting on the bench waiting for winter to install.
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Wheeler,
I installed the DigiTrak in my RV-6 first. Great toy. Then
installed the Altrak when it first came out. You're correct that you
can trim an RV in SMOOTH air after a bit of trying, but in turbulance
it's a little more difficult.
I value both of them and I'm not going to give up either one, but the
one thing to leads me to value the Altrak more would be the
tolerances that ATC holds the IFR pilot to. It'll take a couple of
minutes to get 2 miles off course, but just a few seconds to bust
300', which could lead to a violation.
The Altrak really reduces the scan workload when your trying busy in
the cockpit, IFR or VFR.
Just a different opinion.
Laird RV-6 800 hrs
SoCal
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>There was some discussion yesterday about RV stability.
>
>>From what I have heard Van say and from my own experience in testing this
>
>The RVs have neutral static stability on the lateral axis (roll), but are
>very positively dynamically stable on this axis.
>
>They have positive static stability in pitch and positive dynamic stability
>in pitch, but this is less than the positive dynamic stablity of roll. As
>one adds weight to the aircraft in seats or baggage, or removes weight from
>the fuel tanks the aircraft becomes less positively stable in pitch both
>static and dynamic.
>
>That said, it says nothing about the short coupling of the tail feathers to
>the CG and the short wings to the CG. It doesn't take much to cause a large
>drift in either axis.
>
>If I had a choice of which to put in first (which I did) it would be the
>autopilot for the roll axis as I can go for 20 minutes or more in smooth air
>without drifting more than 100 ft in altitude, but the change in fuel loads
>requires aileron trimming every 5-10 minutes. (Ok so I've only found smooth
>air twice in 60000nm of flight, I did get it to stay on altitude via trim
>for awhile)
>
>I also find it a lot easier to stay on track with the altimeter than with a
>heading indicator in that one feels acceleration of the altitude/attitude
>change more so than a heading change.
>
>W
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
Listers,
For those that have decided to put a checkered rudder on there air 'chines,
what is best size of checker to paint. I am thinking either 4" or 5"
checkers, but not really sure. Can anyone shed some light on this? I have
heard in the past that there is an optimal size that looks the best.
Scott
Message 13
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| Subject: | Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Pilla" <mpilla@maine.rr.com>
Folks,
A long story, but the short version is I would like to borrow a Hartzell
C2YL prop so that my cowl can be fitted to my RV-4. My prop has been
ordered, but won't be shipped until 12/20 and I would like to get the
cowling, baffles, etc., all fitted sooner rather than later.
The prop will only be placed on my engine (O-320-D1A equivalent) for fitting
purposes. The prop should only be needed for a week, at most.
If anyone in the New England area has a Hartzell C2YL prop that has not yet
been installed, I would be happy to pick it up within a 100 miles radius of
Ashland, MA (near Framingham) and/or pay shipping charges both ways.
Thank you.
Michael Pilla
Message 14
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| Subject: | EZ-Pilot by Trio Avionics |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Doug Rozendaal wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> Keeping the wings level will dramatically increase the likelihood of the
> airplane staying on its altitude. More importantly, a Roll A/P should be the
> first choice because it will save your bacon if you have a vacuum failure,
> or if a VFR pilot ends up in the soup.
>
> Tailwinds,
> Doug Rozendaal
> RV-4 Nav-aid, Alt-trak sitting on the bench waiting for winter to install.
From the very early planning stages of the panel in my then VFR RV-6, I
considered the wing-leveler to be not only a convenience, but, as Doug
stated, the way out of an unexpected bad situation. The Navaid has
faithfully served my needs for over 500 hrs, and I have learned most of
its little quirks.
But.....there is a new kid on the block. Even though the DigiTrak guys
have gotten a lot of deserved attention with their new systems, and I am
a very satisfied AlTrak user, Trio Avionics has introduced an auto pilot
for us Navaid pilots who want to join the 21st century. I have now
completed a handful of hours flying the new EZ-Pilot:
http://www.trioavionics.com
My trusty Navaid has been permanently benched! The EZ-Pilot uses the
Navaid servo, and for Navaid users is shipped with an adapter cable that
makes it plug-n-play. You can purchase just the control head if a
functional Navaid servo is already installed.
The feature set of the EZ-Pilot is far beyond what the Navaid can offer.
I am amazed at how I can fly 180 degrees away from a waypoint, hit the
servo switch on the EZ-Pilot, and watch the thing fly my RV-6 into a
perfect teardrop intersection with the direct course to the waypoint.
Having nav info displayed on the control head also brings real utility
to flying heading vectors as well. The roll control is via a solid state
gyro so there are no little motors spinning in the control head. The yaw
response is quicker and more precise than the Navaid which results in a
better ride in turbulence.
I realize some of these features are available with the DigiTrak, but
the cool thing about the EZ-Pilot is the way it can serve as an
impressive upgrade for us Navaid customers. The only problem I have
found with the EZ-Pilot is the VFD display. The unit was designed by
guys who fly those planes with the wings on the wrong end of the fuse,
and their panels are somewhat shrouded from direct sunlight. The VFD
display is cool for those guys but gets blown out in the direct sunlight
that we can get on our exposed RV panels. As long as the sun is not
shining directly on the display, it really looks nice. But I have to
shade the unit with my hand to read it when the sun is at my back.
Having said that, I have NO intention of putting the Navaid back in the
plane! The preciseness and features of the EZ-Pilot are just that much
more advanced than what I had been flying. Jerry Hansen, one of the trio
at Trio Avionics has been very receptive to my input during beta testing
and is aware of the display issue. I think you will find him a good guy
to work with if you decide to pursue his system.
These are exciting times for experimental aviation! The new toys just
keep coming. Flying around with the Dyon doing its thing, the AlTrak
holding altitude within 10-20 feet, and the EZ-Pilot holding course
within 0.01 mile, and me just sitting there watching over everything and
for traffic.......its hard for me to believe this affordable yet
sophisticated capability is in a plane that was hatched in my backyard.
Sam Buchanan
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: cabin interior paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Tom,
I used plain ol' Rustoleum in my cockpit areas. I'm not flying yet but other local
builders have used the same thing and have been flying for some time, with
good durability results as long as the surface was properly prepped and CLEAN
before painting. It's cheap, comes in lots of colors, easy to touch up later,
etc etc. One local professional painter who has done several aircraft paint
jobs says he has used Rustoleum in various applications and thinks that it's
about 70% as durable as a catalyzed polyurethane topcoat that costs 10-20X as
much. I'm planning to use semi-gloss black Rustoleum on the top of my cowl between
the spinner and windshield to cut glare. I recall a few years back reading
a Sport Aviation cover story on a Piper Cherokee that was completely polished
except for the fiberglass parts which were painted with Silver Rustoleum.
This included the cowl nose bowl and wheel pants which get direct impact from
bugs, rain, etc....and the owner said it held up ve
ry well and rarely needed touchup. And of course, it's easy to touch up when
you need to...
FWIW.
Maybe I'll paint the whole airplane with Rustoleum next time around : )
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D about ready to hang up the paint gun for the winter...
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: cabin interior paint
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
What are people using for their interior cabin paint? I tested a spray
can of Tempo Aircraft Enamel.; I eventually figured out how to get a
reasonably good result (it tends to orange peel very easily), but the
shade of gray is wrong for my interior and it's only available in just a
few other colors.
I'd prefer something in a spray can. A paint that I'd have to use a
spray gun with is OK as long as it's something less lethal than an
isocyanate paint. I'd like to get by using just a common Home depot
respirator mask.
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A
Message 16
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| Subject: | CS Prop oil line options |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport Power
is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the governor and prop,
and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the flexible line is
the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more often. I suppose it may
weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm missing, or know where I might
find any better prices than this? (Usually it's hard to beat Aerosport Power
but it never hurts to ask...)
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Prop_Cowl.pdf
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Pilla" <mpilla@maine.rr.com>
>
> Folks,
> A long story, but the short version is I would like to borrow a Hartzell
> C2YL prop so that my cowl can be fitted to my RV-4. My prop has been
> ordered, but won't be shipped until 12/20 and I would like to get the
> cowling, baffles, etc., all fitted sooner rather than later.
>
> The prop will only be placed on my engine (O-320-D1A equivalent) for
> fitting purposes. The prop should only be needed for a week, at most.
>
> If anyone in the New England area has a Hartzell C2YL prop that has not
> yet been installed, I would be happy to pick it up within a 100 miles
> radius of Ashland, MA (near Framingham) and/or pay shipping charges both
> ways.
>
> Thank you.
>
> Michael Pilla
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
MICHAEL-I HAVE A BLANK HUB WITH THE MOUNTING STUDS NO BLADES YOU CAN MOUNT
YOUR SPINNER BACKING PLATE AND DO YOUR COWLS-CALL ME-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Weather...( long ) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "austin" <austin@uniserve.com>
I can't see but half a mile from where I sit now.
Monsoon rains have dropped vis to point 5 and ceiling to about as high as I
can throw a beer bottle.
The monsoon doesn't begin to start....it arrives....
I come home from the hangar glad that the RV is under cover and dry.
Hangar doors bang loudly in their tracks and sound timpani and base
reverberating through all the bays within.
Nobody comes out to the field on days like this....nobody to come by and
visit.
No worries about water in the tanks, or wind to do havoc as she did blowing
the tree over in my back yard...for the second time.
Amazingly, I hear a Beaver on floats rumble by, red beacon glowing slow
turns about fuselage.
I see only a couple of turns of the beacon and he is gone, but not silent,
into the murk.
I knew two guys who flew like that once upon a time.
One was so keen to get a job flying the coast that he flew in weather that
began to frighten him more and more each time he set foot on the step to
climb aboard.
The demands to make the flights so overcame his love of flying that he quit
altogether lest he never see another Spring.
Such was the fear of living in the shadow of being killed.
The other fellow simply was killed.
He would fly anytime anywhere, and I can't remember what the urgency was to
go, but he went anyway and flew into Cumulo Granite........it was no
contest.
The ELT was thrown clear out of the aircraft and did not go off, but
strangely, worked just fine on the bench when later recovered.
Sometimes the Gods of Flight give you a break though..
I once stood down for a couple of days in the Oregon hills waiting out the
weather, eager to get home, and having seen everything and talked to
everybody in the small logging town, decided to fly a weather check.
It was raining and overcast and I got lower and lower and followed the
lights of the cars below when I became aware that fuel was low as it was and
I could barely see the wingtips, and did a 180 and landed back where the
highway led me to my starting point...
My turnaround was appropriately named the town of " Drain"...
I never did something like that again...
Only four days ago I was flying over rolling hills with golden trees as far
as I could see.
Warm in the cockpit and CAVU.
6,000 feet on the altimeter, but only 1,000 above ground, now today, down at
sea level, my nose has stopped bleeding and hands not so chapped and cracked
as they were.
How wonderful it is to get a window seat in a jet and watch how we climb up
through the dark and rainswept morning to clear skies and rising sun above
the deck of solid Q....
If only we had gyros, oxygen, IFR capability in every sense, that would be
fantastic, but would I get down just as well ?
I had a friend who had to get back to homebase in poor weather
while flying his 150.
The only saving grace he had was he could see the ocean and the mouth of the
river leading home.
He knew how long he had to fly upriver and made a call to the tower, who
cleared him straight in.
When he arrived over the riverbend, he saw a red beacon he thought to be on
the field, but was actually a low flying helicopter who did not see or hear
him...
When he landed, the tower was still calling him thinking he was still
airborne, but he was on the tarmac and they still could not see him.
Talk about miracles.
I have been waiting around for word to go pick up a Cub and fly it from the
Great Lakes to the West Coast.
Nordo, basic Cub..no this, no that, no nothing,... except romance.
Today I got word they won't insure me not because of skill level or lack
thereof, but because of my age.
And yet, the same company insures my RV and me, and I have more tail wheel
time than trike.
On a day like this, I don't mind being alone and cold and roving about the
hangar, listening to the doors bang.
At least it is not airplane metal getting slammed.
In one hangar bay, fitted out like a house away from home, lies a new
workbench holding a new tail group of an RV7.
What a dream these new kits are !......makes you want to order another, just
to enjoy the improvements and the cleanliness and newness of all the kit
offers.
I look at my hands still bearing cuts and dirt of Proseal, MEK, dirt from
the bowels of a tired and beat up Metro.
Inside this beast, I saw a message writ large by a structures guy of long
ago...upon moving a batt of insulation to see where I had drilled into the
fuselage was this missive.....
" They don't pay you enough to work on this pig ".
At least that gave me a good laugh and appreciate how nice it is to work on
a new kit....no comparison.
I am currently awaiting a nice high pressure cell which will allow me
and friends to resume flying together in company.......still, clear air and
dramatic winter skies make some of the best flying ever....
Now if only I could operate a video cam while holding the RV level, I could
capture some of the most memorable skyscapes I have ever seen while flying
the Cascades, and keeping an eye out for THOR and his lightening bolt spear,
or any other Norse Gods who dwell up here.
Believe it or not, the best landing I have made and one that sticks with me
still is one I made in the RV when the sky was black and the wind was
ripping across the runway and my approach was bobbing like a cork on the
sea.
I did not use flap as it was too hard to engage, my having sawed it down too
short.
The runway looked crooked and I held in rudder and right wing down against
the gale, held her off until I had to line up the paint strips with the same
way I was going, rounded out and settled as if an instructor was doing the
flying........I was too thrilled to be amazed at what I had just done...
The low, dark ceiling was lit from beneath by a sinking winter sun and the
whole scene was such that if you saw a painting of it, you would say that
was not a real portrayal of a land/seascape...but I have seen it...
And in that dark mass of roiling sea off the end of that runway, Orca, the
killer whale, calls and whistles for her pod to rejoin her, and I rejoin my
ground bound friends in the hangar/ coffee debrief room.
Do not archive,
Austin.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Checkered Tails |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
On mine, I simply looked through a stack of Sport Aviation magazines looking
for checker tailed RV's, picked out a grid size that looked right, and
copied it. I think my rudder has 8 rows of squares and 3 columns. I
stretched the squares so the three columns taper with the width of the
rudder (i.e the bottom "squares" are wider than the top squares). That
prevented me from having any incomplete squares.
You can find some pictures here:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/rv6/index.html
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
Subject: RV-List: Checkered Tails
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Brown" <scottbrown@precisionjet.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> For those that have decided to put a checkered rudder on there air
'chines,
> what is best size of checker to paint. I am thinking either 4" or 5"
> checkers, but not really sure. Can anyone shed some light on this? I have
> heard in the past that there is an optimal size that looks the best.
>
> Scott
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Pilla" <mpilla@maine.rr.com>
Tom,
Thanks for the offer. I'll call tomorrow - got the message too late this
evening to call.
Michael
----- Original Message -----
From: <WFACT01@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Borrow Hartzell C2YL Prop: New England Area
> --> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
>
> MICHAEL-I HAVE A BLANK HUB WITH THE MOUNTING STUDS NO BLADES YOU CAN MOUNT
> YOUR SPINNER BACKING PLATE AND DO YOUR COWLS-CALL ME-TOM
>
> Tom Whelan
> Whelan Farms Airport
> President EAA Chapter 1097
> wfact01@aol.com
> 249 Hard Hill Road North
> PO Box 426
> Bethlehem, CT 06751
> Tel: 203-266-5300
> Fax: 202-266-5140
> EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
> RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
> S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | API fuel pump current requirements? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Listers,
Can anyone tell me what the maximum and nominal current draw is for Airflow Performance's
14 volt fuel boost pump?
Charlie Kuss
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: CS Prop oil line options |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I bought the Lycoming stainless line for my CS prop installation. Can't
think of many failure scenarios or weaknesses of either, if fab'd/assembled
properly. So, not knowing why one would be better than the other, I just
spent the $$ and went with the OEM/Lycoming part.
Another benefit of the stainless is the fit around the engine. Having a
piece of well fit 1/2" tubing to route baffling and accessories around was
much easier than a loose, 1" effective OD firesleeved hose.
my 2 cents
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
>
>Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport
>Power is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the governor
>and prop, and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the
>flexible line is the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more
>often. I suppose it may weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm
>missing, or know where I might find any better prices than this? (Usually
>it's hard to beat Aerosport Power but it never hurts to ask...)
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Weather...( long ) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
Just a reminder that an extensive collection of Austin's prose is available on
the Western Canad Wing web site, at
http://www.vansairforce.org/6430/
Tedd McHenry
Van's Air Force
Western Canada Wing
www.vansairforce.org
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Weather...( long ) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Austin,
Reading your words I could feel the cold rain dripping off the hanger roof
and running down my back between my shoulder blades while trying to get the
bottom of that damn door to slide in the slot so I could get the rusty old
bolt into the lock hasp.
Good WX to empty some of those beer bottles and find out how strong your arm
or how low the ceiling............. Keep pounding the keyboard, and the
rivits.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
do not archive
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
Does anyone have any suggestion for buying parts(rings,gaskets....ect.)
at a discounted price?
Joel Graber
-4 finishing
Brooksville Ms
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: API fuel pump current requirements? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
The manual (page 16, Revision B) says it draws 5 amps at 12 VDC, and that
the pump "should be protected by a 7 to 10 amp circuit breaker."
I used a 10A fuse.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: RV-List: API fuel pump current requirements?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers,
> Can anyone tell me what the maximum and nominal current draw is for
Airflow Performance's 14 volt fuel boost pump?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: API fuel pump current requirements? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Charlie,
The book says that it draws 5 amps at 12 volts and should be protected
by a 7 to 10 amp circuit breaker and use a minimum of 16 ga wire.
Dave
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Listers,
> Can anyone tell me what the maximum and nominal current draw is for Airflow Performance's
14 volt fuel boost pump?
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: CS Prop oil line options |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Mark and Listers,
I had a stainless steel line for my O-360 that turned out not to fit due to
the after market ND alternator mounting. Some amount of bending might have
made it
fit.
I asked around and was basically told the following information:
If you do fit a stainless steel CS prop line be sure that have one that does
not require bending to make it fit your application. Inspect it very
carefully for scratches and marks that cannot easily be polished out. Look
for
evidence that it might have suffered previous bending abuses etc.
Also be very careful to mount it with the right number and type of aviation
type Adell clamps positioned as called out by Lycoming. The tube needs to
drop into place with no stress and it needs to be tied down tight. If it
came from another engine and needs to be pushed or pulled into place avoid
bending it any large amount to fit.
If getting it into the right position calls for removing some engine pieces
do so rather than bending it out of stock form to make it fit into place
then re-bending in place to make the fittings line up. remove the parts etc.
install the line and button it up securely.
This piece of tubing can throw or spray a lot of oil 'in a very short time
onto hot stuff" if it cracks or breaks at some point where it suffered any
accidental abuse during a tough installation or what have you..
I chose to install the flex line from Bart at Aero Sport Power and took
extra care to see that it was routed well and held in place properly.
I can not advise as the life expectancy of the flex line. Thanks for the
reminder to look into it.
This project sure is full of details ain't it?(;-)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: CS Prop oil line options
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> I bought the Lycoming stainless line for my CS prop installation. Can't
> think of many failure scenarios or weaknesses of either, if
fab'd/assembled
> properly. So, not knowing why one would be better than the other, I just
> spent the $$ and went with the OEM/Lycoming part.
>
> Another benefit of the stainless is the fit around the engine. Having a
> piece of well fit 1/2" tubing to route baffling and accessories around was
> much easier than a loose, 1" effective OD firesleeved hose.
>
> my 2 cents
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> Pearland, Texas
>
> >Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport
> >Power is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the
governor
> >and prop, and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the
> >flexible line is the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more
> >often. I suppose it may weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm
> >missing, or know where I might find any better prices than this?
(Usually
> >it's hard to beat Aerosport Power but it never hurts to ask...)
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: CS Prop oil line options
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> I bought the Lycoming stainless line for my CS prop installation. Can't
> think of many failure scenarios or weaknesses of either, if
fab'd/assembled
> properly. So, not knowing why one would be better than the other, I just
> spent the $$ and went with the OEM/Lycoming part.
>
> Another benefit of the stainless is the fit around the engine. Having a
> piece of well fit 1/2" tubing to route baffling and accessories around was
> much easier than a loose, 1" effective OD firesleeved hose.
>
> my 2 cents
>
> Bryan Jones -8
> Pearland, Texas
>
> >
> >Guys, is there a recommended life limit on flexible oil lines? Aerosport
> >Power is quoting $165 for a rigid stainless steel line between the
governor
> >and prop, and $80 for a flexible fire-sleeved hose. Sounds like the
> >flexible line is the obvious choice unless it has to be replaced more
> >often. I suppose it may weigh a bit more too. Anybody see something I'm
> >missing, or know where I might find any better prices than this?
(Usually
> >it's hard to beat Aerosport Power but it never hurts to ask...)
> >
> >--Mark Navratil
> >Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> >RV-8A N2D thinking about a CS prop...
> >
>
>
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