Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:48 AM - Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question (Dana Overall)
2. 04:46 AM - Re: oil cooler flow direction (Kyle Boatright)
3. 05:50 AM - Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
4. 06:49 AM - Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question (Dan Checkoway)
5. 06:52 AM - Re: oil cooler flow direction (Dan Checkoway)
6. 07:04 AM - Re: oil cooler flow direction (DWENSING@aol.com)
7. 07:57 AM - Re: RV-7 QB (Kip Haas)
8. 10:30 AM - 180hp Sensenich Prop for Sale (czechsix@juno.com)
9. 10:52 AM - Want to Buy: Prop governor adaptor, gear, oil line, etc for C.S. setu (czechsix@juno.com)
10. 11:32 AM - Re: Want to Buy: Prop governor adaptor, gear, oil line, etc for C.S. setu p ()
11. 11:41 AM - Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related (RV_8 Pilot)
12. 01:02 PM - How Much Primer? (Frederick Oldenburg)
13. 01:33 PM - Re: How Much Primer? (BGCrook@aol.com)
14. 02:09 PM - Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
15. 02:15 PM - Re: How Much Primer? (Richard Dudley)
16. 02:53 PM - Re: How Much Primer? (Jim Jewell)
17. 03:23 PM - Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question (Don Alexander)
18. 04:23 PM - RV-8 Model (Martin Sobel)
19. 05:24 PM - Re: How Much Primer? (BPattonsoa@aol.com)
20. 05:50 PM - Re: RV-10 vs. Bonanza ref. LOE3 (Dave Smith)
21. 07:06 PM - Re: How Much Primer? (Tedd McHenry)
22. 09:14 PM - Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question (Clayton Henderson)
Message 1
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dwight, I had the very same issue with one of mine. I am certain it has
something to do with the proseal thickness on that outer fuel tank rib added
to the different skin thicknesses of the tank and outer leading edge. My
quick fix was to run a take line on the higher skin and squeegy a layer of
Superfil. I took a razor and cut the line back between the skins and peeled
the tape off. Sand that puppy down and you will a perfect fit.
If you want some pics, let me know.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com (RV Mailing List)
>Subject: RV-List: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question
>Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 20:55:16 -0400 (EDT)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>
>It may be that I'm being too picky here, but I want input on a tank to
>leading edge fit issue I've run into. On the right side the fit is
>absolutely perfect. On the left side I have a small difference between
>the forward-most part of the skin on the tank and the forward-most
>part of the skin on the leading edge.
>
>The difference is about the thickness of the tank skin, so maybe I am
>being too picky, but I wanted to hear what folks had to say about the
>issue. If you look at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/showissue.php you
>can see a web page with pictures of the situation. There are two pictures
>there .. one showing the general area of concern, and the other showing
>a closeup of the skins and the "gap" I'm seeing.
>
>I did check with Van's and they said that _maybe_ a shim was called
>for to bump up the leading edge skin a bit, but even then seemed to
>think that it wasn't a big deal.
>
>Anyone have any advice here? Or should I just press on and not worry
>about it? Enquiring minds want to know. :)
>
> -- Dwight
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler flow direction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
All the responses in the archives will tell you that you'll want to have
the in port at the bottom and the out port on top. That way, you won't get
oil leaving the cooler unless the cooler is full of the slippery stuff.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler flow direction
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Is there a hard and fast rule about which direction the oil should flow in
a
> vertically oriented oil cooler? According to Van's fwf kit drawings, the
> oil should flow UP through the cooler, flowing into the bottom port and
out
> of the top port.
>
> Does oil cooling suffer in any way if you reverse the flow, so that the
oil
> flows into the top port and flows DOWN through the cooler?
>
> Just wanted to get the skinny on this before I decide what my oil cooler
> hose setup will be. In some ways it will be much easier to have oil
flowing
> DOWN through the cooler. The Jihostroj governor bracket really gets in
the
> way!
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related |
10/22/2003 07:14:23 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
What does any of this KLM-PanAm have to do with humor? It is not funny at
all. Now if you want to hear a dirty joke, how about three white horses
fell in the mud. And an RV8A flew by and performed a victory roll. Now
that's funny and rv related.
surely
do not archive this
Glenn Williams
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Dwight's tank is just clecoed on at this point, though (no proseal yet). I
still think it has to do with possible hole elongation and rib flange
"tuning"...but that's just my 2 cents. 8-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Dwight, I had the very same issue with one of mine. I am certain it has
> something to do with the proseal thickness on that outer fuel tank rib
added
> to the different skin thicknesses of the tank and outer leading edge. My
> quick fix was to run a take line on the higher skin and squeegy a layer of
> Superfil. I took a razor and cut the line back between the skins and
peeled
> the tape off. Sand that puppy down and you will a perfect fit.
>
> If you want some pics, let me know.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
>
> >From: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com (RV Mailing List)
> >Subject: RV-List: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question
> >Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 20:55:16 -0400 (EDT)
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
> >
> >It may be that I'm being too picky here, but I want input on a tank to
> >leading edge fit issue I've run into. On the right side the fit is
> >absolutely perfect. On the left side I have a small difference between
> >the forward-most part of the skin on the tank and the forward-most
> >part of the skin on the leading edge.
> >
> >The difference is about the thickness of the tank skin, so maybe I am
> >being too picky, but I wanted to hear what folks had to say about the
> >issue. If you look at http://www.openweave.org/RV7/showissue.php you
> >can see a web page with pictures of the situation. There are two pictures
> >there .. one showing the general area of concern, and the other showing
> >a closeup of the skins and the "gap" I'm seeing.
> >
> >I did check with Van's and they said that _maybe_ a shim was called
> >for to bump up the leading edge skin a bit, but even then seemed to
> >think that it wasn't a big deal.
> >
> >Anyone have any advice here? Or should I just press on and not worry
> >about it? Enquiring minds want to know. :)
> >
> > -- Dwight
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler flow direction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> All the responses in the archives will tell you that you'll want to have
> the in port at the bottom and the out port on top. That way, you won't get
> oil leaving the cooler unless the cooler is full of the slippery stuff.
Thanks. After sending the email I went through the archives (duh) and read
about gas being purged if the flow goes upward. Makes perfect sense.
Maybe Van's can modify their welded Jihostroj governor bracket in the future
to accommodate the "normal" oil supply hose routing. Looks like I'm gonna
have to loop up around the oil filter or down around the fuel pump. Oh,
well!
Thanks again,
)_( Dan
do not archive
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler flow direction |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 10/22/03 2:36:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
> oil should flow UP through the cooler, flowing into the bottom port and out
> of the top port.
>
>
This is to prevent any possible air pockets which would reduce the
effectiveness of the cooler.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kip Haas" <kiphaas@firstam.com>
Hi Noel, my QB doesn't have the finishing kit.
-Kip
----- Original Message -----
From: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-7 QB
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons"
<noel@blueskyaviation.net>
>
> Kip,
>
> I sent your e-mail to my partner and here is his questions.
>
>
> is that a complete QB rv7 ? with finishing kit also? i have a cessna 140
> with zero timed eng, by magnum engines of ohio. painted in L-19 colors
> with army markings. it has 720 com, garmin gps. txp. mode c , 800-6 new
> tires , and tubes. new stainless brake lines slick mags. it is a trouble
> free plane that you can fly 2000 hrs with little expense. you can see the
> plane on trade a plane. im asking 25000 or trade for complete rv kit.
> thank you
>
> Noel / Gary
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kip Haas
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-7 QB
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kip Haas" <kiphaas@firstam.com>
>
> I have an RV-7 QB for sale (delivered in July), It includes a tail kit
that
> has been drilled, dimpled and deburred, but not rivited. It also includes
a
> partial RV-8 tail. The QB is in a hanger in Corona, Ca. I am moving out of
> state and I do not have a place for the plane. Please email me with your
> offers.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Kip
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | 180hp Sensenich Prop for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
FOR SALE:
Almost-new Sensenich prop, 180 hp O-360 model # 72FM8S9-1-87, S/N 33984. The prop
only has a couple flights on it since brand new before it was removed for
replacement with a constant-speed prop. There are NO nicks in the leading edge
and the paint looks pretty good. With 87" of pitch, this prop is a good cruise
prop...there's a lot in the archives about various pitch options, no point
in rehashing it all here, but if you have questions feel free to contact me off
list...it can of course be repitched if desired.
I am asking $1650 for it, this includes the spacer, bolts, prop log and shipping/insurance
anywhere in the contiguous 48 U.S. states. I could also ship it to
Sensenich if a buyer wanted it inspected and/or repitched, and Sensenich could
then forward it to the buyer.
I'll also throw in the front spinner bulkhead (brand new and undrilled) for the
Sensenich prop installation if the buyer needs it. This is P/N S-605 SEN and
is a $52 part.
I'd be happy to entertain any reasonable offers if I don't get any takers at $1650.
Please contact me OFF LIST if interested.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
day (319) 295-9390
eve (319) 393-4234
e-mail: czechsix@juno.com
Do Not Archive
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Want to Buy: Prop governor adaptor, gear, oil line, etc for |
C.S. setu
p
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, is there anybody out there who got an O-360-A1A from Vans (or elsewhere)
who is running a fixed-pitch prop and would be interested in selling the prop
governor adaptor, gear, oil line, and associated fittings and hardware that are
not needed for the fixed-pitch setup? I would like to buy these items for my
new Hartzell installation. If you have any or all of this stuff and would like
to lighten your airplane and put some weight (cash) back in your wallet, please
contact me off-list.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
day (319) 295-9390
eve (319) 393-4234
e-mail: czechsix@juno.com
Do Not Archive
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Want to Buy: Prop governor adaptor, gear, oil line, etc |
for C.S. setu p
--> RV-List message posted by: <klwerner@comcast.net>
Mark,
What are you willing to spend on all the necessary parts?
Konrad
----- Original Message -----
From: czechsix@juno.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com ; p@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2003 11:51 AM
Subject: RV-List: Want to Buy: Prop governor adaptor, gear, oil line, etc for
C.S. setu p
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, is there anybody out there who got an O-360-A1A from Vans (or elsewhere)
who is running a fixed-pitch prop and would be interested in selling the prop
governor adaptor, gear, oil line, and associated fittings and hardware that
are not needed for the fixed-pitch setup? I would like to buy these items for
my new Hartzell installation. If you have any or all of this stuff and would
like to lighten your airplane and put some weight (cash) back in your wallet,
please contact me off-list.
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
day (319) 295-9390
eve (319) 393-4234
e-mail: czechsix@juno.com
Do Not Archive
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related |
FROM_HAS_UNDERLINE_NUMS
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
-*A*'s will roll!? ;)
Bryan Jones -8 (no -A)
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
>
>What does any of this KLM-PanAm have to do with humor? It is not funny at
>all. Now if you want to hear a dirty joke, how about three white horses
>fell in the mud. And an RV8A flew by and performed a victory roll. Now
>that's funny and rv related.
>
>surely
>do not archive this
>
>Glenn Williams
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | How Much Primer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
I'm confused on the subject of priming and could use some common sense advise.
I've looked in the archives and I see a lot of "Primer Wars" that seem to be more
of a general nature and not specific to any particular situation. Here is
my situation: I live in the greater metropolitan area of Phoenix, Arizona. We
get an average of seven (7) inches of rainfall and 360+ days of VFR weather a
year. For all practical purposes, it never snows here. (OK...In the 12 or so years
I have lived here it has snowed twice that I can remember, never for more
than an hour or so and it never sticks). I absolutely love it here and don't
ever plan on moving.
The US Air Force and Boeing store their airplanes that are too big to hangar here
in Arizona - so they won't corrode while sitting outside. My airplane will
be kept in a hangar....I've already made plans and secured a spot on the waiting
list: The airplane will not leave my garage until I have hangar space.
Based on all that, I don't think I am going to need to do a whole lot of priming,
if any. I see 40 year old Cessnas here with no factory corrosion protection
that seem to be in fine shape (with respect to corrosion).
So...my question is: In these circumstances, what priming should I do, at a minimum?
Do I need to do any at all? If I need to prime, what should I use? Am I
completely out to lunch thinking that I can get away without priming?
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Shop Prep - Empennage Kit -Almost Ready to Start Building
http://rv.oldsack.com
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
I would at least primer the non-alclad parts. The steel parts are already
powder coated so nothing further is required there. In addition to priming the
non-alclad parts, I'm also primering anywhere there is metal to metal contact
only. In my area, Central California, there is little need to primer the entire
inter-structure.
Of course this is just my worthless .02.
Bryon Crook
RV-9 (emp kit under constuction)
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: flying humor Not RV related |
10/22/2003 03:34:03 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
All day long and then some my friend. :) And I dont worry as much about the
ground loop embarrasment thing you ass I mean tail draggers do. LOL
do not archive
"RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>@matronics.com on 10/22/2003 01:41:31
PM
Please respond to rv-list@matronics.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fw: flying humor Not RV related
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
-*A*'s will roll!? ;)
Bryan Jones -8 (no -A)
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
>
>What does any of this KLM-PanAm have to do with humor? It is not funny at
>all. Now if you want to hear a dirty joke, how about three white horses
>fell in the mud. And an RV8A flew by and performed a victory roll. Now
>that's funny and rv related.
>
>surely
>do not archive this
>
>Glenn Williams
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Fred,
The need for priming seems to be, in many ways, related to the severity
of the environment. High humidity and especially in the presence of salt
water seems to be the worst. Your environment and climate is probably
the most benign and your machine will probably last forever, if it stays
there. However ----- will you be the only owner of the airplane for the
next XX years? Should you decide to sell it in the near or even distant
future, it would be more attractive to a potential buyer from a more
severe, corrosion-prone location if the structure was primed with
corrosion inhibiting materials.
Hope this is of some help.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A finishing details (primed with zinc chromate)
Florida
Frederick Oldenburg wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> I'm confused on the subject of priming and could use some common sense advise.
I've looked in the archives and I see a lot of "Primer Wars" that seem to be
more of a general nature and not specific to any particular situation. Here is
my situation: I live in the greater metropolitan area of Phoenix, Arizona. We
get an average of seven (7) inches of rainfall and 360+ days of VFR weather
a year. For all practical purposes, it never snows here. (OK...In the 12 or so
years I have lived here it has snowed twice that I can remember, never for more
than an hour or so and it never sticks). I absolutely love it here and don't
ever plan on moving.
>
> The US Air Force and Boeing store their airplanes that are too big to hangar
here in Arizona - so they won't corrode while sitting outside. My airplane will
be kept in a hangar....I've already made plans and secured a spot on the waiting
list: The airplane will not leave my garage until I have hangar space.
>
> Based on all that, I don't think I am going to need to do a whole lot of priming,
if any. I see 40 year old Cessnas here with no factory corrosion protection
that seem to be in fine shape (with respect to corrosion).
>
> So...my question is: In these circumstances, what priming should I do, at a minimum?
Do I need to do any at all? If I need to prime, what should I use? Am
I completely out to lunch thinking that I can get away without priming?
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> RV-7A - Shop Prep - Empennage Kit -Almost Ready to Start Building
> http://rv.oldsack.com
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Fred,
I suppose that things like how far a-field you intend to fly and what kind
of weather situations you might encounter might have some bearing on primer
choices.
Outdoor parking in weather on longer trips away can not always be avoided?
Places in the structure where metals overlap will retain moisture and
accompanying contaminants for periods long enough to be susceptible to
corrosion especially in the lower areas.of the structure.
Moisture and contaminants that might be encountered in regular maintenance
routines such as washing etc. should also be considered.
None of these considerations are earth shaking so what you feel you can
tolerate will help you decide how to approach the primer issue
I think some degree of primer preparation should be considered but that of
course is just my opinion.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: How Much Primer?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg
<foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> I'm confused on the subject of priming and could use some common sense
advise. I've looked in the archives and I see a lot of "Primer Wars" that
seem to be more of a general nature and not specific to any particular
situation. Here is my situation: I live in the greater metropolitan area of
Phoenix, Arizona. We get an average of seven (7) inches of rainfall and 360+
days of VFR weather a year. For all practical purposes, it never snows here.
(OK...In the 12 or so years I have lived here it has snowed twice that I can
remember, never for more than an hour or so and it never sticks). I
absolutely love it here and don't ever plan on moving.
>
> The US Air Force and Boeing store their airplanes that are too big to
hangar here in Arizona - so they won't corrode while sitting outside. My
airplane will be kept in a hangar....I've already made plans and secured a
spot on the waiting list: The airplane will not leave my garage until I have
hangar space.
>
> Based on all that, I don't think I am going to need to do a whole lot of
priming, if any. I see 40 year old Cessnas here with no factory corrosion
protection that seem to be in fine shape (with respect to corrosion).
>
> So...my question is: In these circumstances, what priming should I do, at
a minimum? Do I need to do any at all? If I need to prime, what should I
use? Am I completely out to lunch thinking that I can get away without
priming?
>
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> RV-7A - Shop Prep - Empennage Kit -Almost Ready to Start Building
> http://rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Alexander <don@propjock.com>
Dwight,
I had a similar problem with the way the very nose of the tanks and the
LE fit together on my 9A. It discovered the problem a few days before
Oshkosh this year and I got lots of advise from other builders and Gus
at Van's. The mismatch was approximately 3/64" but looked about twice
that to me and only grew bigger in my mind as I was away from home. It
looked like hell imo and worse, no plane on the line had the problem to
the degree I did. You can see what I was dealing with
(http://www.propjock.com/images/Wings/W-closeupRjoint-72.jpg) and decide
for yourself. Gus suggested taking a hammer and tapping it down, which
seemed a tad risky to me. When I got home I took a board about 15" long
and 4" wide (just scrap) and laid it over the high skin and started
tapping it rather firmly with a mallet. In about a minute I had the
result I was looking for. There was no visable distortion and the skins
match up perfectly. You can decide for yourself if it's close enough
for you
(http://www.propjock.com/images/Wings/W-closeupRjointfixed.jpg). The
shots are from different sides of the same wing.
My guess is the tank skins are over bent a bit compared to the LE
skins. There are a couple of possible reasons for the discrepancy but
the fix eliminated my curiosity.
Don,
RV9A 90702 Wings
www.propjock.com
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
RV-List Digest Server" <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Martin Sobel <rv8vator@earthlink.net>
Rich:
I recently saw a request for RV models on one of the sites I monitor. I
believe it was for an RV-8.
It may be on the Matronics list. The only response was for the R/C model.
I'll forward this message to the groups involved.
Martin Sobel
Moving to a condominium in Westerville OH. Hope to order the RV-8 tail by
the end of March. May need to find a place to build.
10/22/03 2:16 PM, rich_aircraftextras_com at rmeske@gcfn.org wrote:
Hey guys!
I'm new here but not new to the RV world. I just thought I'd
introduce myself as I see some of the others did. I have met some of
you at Oshkosh and Sun N Fun.
I live in Columbus OH and have built and now fly my own RV-6A. I fly
quite regularly now and it flys like a dream! I also visit and
consult for various homebuilders around the area constructing RVs.
I am the guy that designed the Tip-Up/Slider canopy modification for
the RV-6, 7, & 9. Many had asked me to come up with a kit for it.
After a year and a half, I did. I started a small internet business
selling products that I designed and also modifications designed by
other people. It has been great meeting people thru this small
business at the same time, saving them some money too. I know from
personal experience, that homebuilding can be expensive!
Check it out at: www.aircraftextras.com
Oh, I just added a couple of NEW RV models! Just had one made of my
plane. It really looks like my plane. It's GREAT!
Well, enough said for now. If anyone needs a consultant or if I can
help anyone, please let me know!
Best regards,
Rich
To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
OhioValleyRVators-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BPattonsoa@aol.com
My RV-6A is completely primed inside and out. I live in the Central Coast of
California. One of my major lessons learned on this one was the need for
weight reduction. On my RV-10 I will only prime the materials Van requires. The
exterior will be a system that requires minimum priming and overall weight.
Mine is a great airplane, but heavy. It sure goes better solo, and this
weekend I went off with about 15 gallons of fuel and myself, it is a different
airplane.
If you tie down on the ocean, or in it, prime. Otherwise just maintain.
Bruce Patton
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-10 vs. Bonanza ref. LOE3 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave_smith@icehouse.net>
Dana,
It's nice to see a comparison with the Bonanza, since that's where my
history lies. I haven't had the pleasure of sitting in the -10 (yet!)
so have been concerned about space. Having owned a P35 several years
ago, I now a good comparison model to work with.
Thanks!
Dana Overall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Newman" <newmanb@rocketmail.com>
>>
>>
>>I agree, and the RV-10's rear legroom is almost too generous, if such a
>>thing
>>is possible. But the baggage space is less than the Bonanza/Debonair (too
>>little for a 4 seat touring machine IMO), and it carries an hour's less
>>fuel.
>>
>>Best Regards,
>>Bob
>>
>>
>
>The thing I would look at is just how many times do you actually have four
>people in the airplane for an extended tour. With the way the seat backs on
>the 10 come out, it makes for a cavernous luggage storage area. My bladder
>anymore, not the fuel on board, is my distance limiting factor:-)
>
>I like my Bo but I like the 10 more.
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider/fuselage, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit ordered!! Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet
>
>
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> I live in the greater metropolitan area of
> Phoenix, Arizona. We get an average of seven (7) inches of rainfall and 360+
> days of VFR weather a year.
Fred:
Warning: long on opinion, short on fact...
Where I live, near Vancouver, Canada, is pretty much the opposite of where you
are: right on the coast, with lots of rain and salty air. A lot of builders
here are becoming convinced that it's not necessary to prime the Alclad parts
(except where they join, to avoid Galvanic corrosion). That opinion is partly
based on the many production airplanes that have been here for decades with no
primer on the Alclad surfaces and no signs of corrosion.
Two earlier posters mentioned weight and resale value. I think that really is
the trade off here. There is a perception that you need to prime everything,
and it MIGHT make your airplane a little harder to sell if you don't. Maybe.
On the other hand, it will for certain make it a little heavier.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clayton Henderson" <gsuit@eonet.net>
Dwight,
I asked a buddy of mine to chime in because he had a similar problem
that he worked out. Here's what he had to say.
Clayton Henderson
Beaumont, Tx
RV-7 Fuselage
_____________________________
A buddy on the list asked me what I thought about your dilemma. You may
already have the answer you want, but I'll chime in just in case. I
agree with you and would NOT want a gap that big on the tank fit. Both
my RV-7 tanks fit well on the initial fit up, so you may want to look
and make sure that your Z-brackets are sitting down flush with the spar
and the rear baffle. It doesn't take much to cock it up a bit. You may
have to remove the leading edge temporarily to get a peek in there.
Yeah, it's a pain, but it's easier to do it now.
After I had one of my tanks sealed, the tank to LE fit was off a little
and I couldn't figure out what had happened. We finally determined that
I had gotten a little too much sealant between one of the tank ribs and
the rear baffle (Van's does say to use a THIN smear of sealant there).
That caused the tank to sit a little high. Through an iterative
process, I was able to file and sand down one of the Z-brackets where it
attaches to the spar. I had used a straightedge across them with the
tank off the wing to see which one was high. That brought everything
back into alignment and Van's was okay with this. They said there is so
much hardware attaching the tanks that one component being a little thin
isn't going to hurt. We're only talk 1/32" or so anyway.
Van's told me in the days prior to pre-punched skins, they told builders
that if they could get the joint gap between the rear of the tank skin
and the main wing skin it butts up to within the thickness of a skin
(.032") that they were doing well. This is further down from your
problem, but you may want to look there as well. Are the skins tight
against each other or is there a gap? If they're tight, you may need to
file the edge(s) of the skin down a little. If there's a gap, that's
telling me that something between the Z-brackets and rear baffle isn't
right. If you don't get it right now, you may have alignment issues
with the dozens of screws that attach the tank to the spar.
I hope this helps. Feel free to e-mail me if you need clarification on
what I'm saying.
Dave Welsh
Beaumont, TX
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|