Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:50 AM - RV-7 Slider skin fit help (N223RV@aol.com)
2. 06:53 AM - Wig Wag Light wiring question (N223RV@aol.com)
3. 08:04 AM - Re: How Much Primer? (Gil Alexander)
4. 08:07 AM - RV-8 vert.stab angle (GEORGE INMAN)
5. 08:17 AM - Re: RV-7 Slider skin fit help (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
6. 08:33 AM - Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question (Dwight Frye)
7. 09:22 AM - Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question (Terry Watson)
8. 09:53 AM - Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question (Jeff Point)
9. 10:38 AM - Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question (Bill VonDane)
10. 11:21 AM - seal (Del Schneider)
11. 11:47 AM - Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question (Dan Checkoway)
12. 12:30 PM - Re: RV-7 Slider skin fit help (Pat Hatch)
13. 12:43 PM - Re: RV-8 vert.stab angle (a flyer)
14. 01:06 PM - Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question (Pat Hatch)
15. 01:20 PM - FAB Airbox Bolts FYI ()
16. 01:30 PM - Re: FAB Airbox Bolts FYI (Chris Good)
17. 02:22 PM - Re: seal (Laird Owens)
18. 02:23 PM - Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question (Mike Robertson)
19. 02:30 PM - Re: FAB Airbox Bolts FYI ()
20. 02:59 PM - Re: RV-8 vert.stab angle (Brian Denk)
21. 03:04 PM - Fiberglass emphenage fairing (PGLong@aol.com)
22. 03:31 PM - Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question (Ollie Washburn)
23. 04:02 PM - Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings (Geoff Evans)
24. 04:33 PM - Re: Fiberglass emphenage fairing (Joe Hine)
25. 04:35 PM - Pitot leaks (Larry Bowen)
26. 05:13 PM - Main Gear Shimmy 6A (Alex Peterson)
27. 05:20 PM - Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question (Jeff Point)
28. 05:38 PM - Re: Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings (Jim Jewell)
29. 05:38 PM - Re: Pitot leaks (Ralph E. Capen)
30. 05:43 PM - Re: RV-10 manual (WPAerial@aol.com)
31. 07:40 PM - Re: RV-7 Slider skin fit help (RGray67968@aol.com)
32. 07:40 PM - Re: How Much Primer? (Joshua Siler)
33. 08:12 PM - Re: dipstick & tube--help (Randy Compton)
34. 08:20 PM - Ford Javelin 230 HP V6 for RV or?? (Dennis and Stephanie Smith)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV-7 Slider skin fit help |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I am having a difficult time fitting the rear skins on the slider canopy on a RV-7.
I am following Van's directions and I cannot seem to get the skin to lay
flat on the top area about 0-3" from the rear center slider track. I have shaved
the canopy flat in this area (to prevent the ski slope up affect) which helped,
but I still have about a 1/8" gap. When I pull the skins forward as I
drill them, they seem to lay flat, but once I put a cleco in them, the pop back
up. I am starting at the top center and working my way down to the side. Anyone
have any suggestions? Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Message 2
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| Subject: | Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am going to
have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one switch
for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all incorporated in one
switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm wondering if I need 1, 2,
or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
-Mike
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: How Much Primer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Bruce,
Most people put the epoxy primer on too thick...
From the Sterling paint web site
U-1201 and U-1201G Primer @ 1.0 mil-------.0133 lbs per sq. ft.
If the total interior surface is 500 sq. ft. (a high number?), this give
6.7 lbs.
I would guess the fancy clear coat, multi-color exterior paint jobs would
add more weight. A single topcoat at 3 mils is 3 to 4 times the weight per
sq. ft. than the primer layer. How many layers of paint are folks putting
on the exteriors of their planes? Unfortunately, the few RV-6As I know of
that have been professionally painted were not accurately weighed before
and after exterior paint.
The U-1201 primer is a MIL-P-23377D primer- I would think other epoxy
primer are similar if used in the same application thickness.
Keep that primer layer thin (almost transparent) and it will do the
job at minimum weight.
gil in Tucson
Sterling A/C paint info here...
http://www.detcomarine.com/slacguide.htm#AIRCRAFT%20APPLICATION%20GUIDE
At 08:21 PM 10/22/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: BPattonsoa@aol.com
>
>My RV-6A is completely primed inside and out. I live in the Central Coast of
>California. One of my major lessons learned on this one was the need for
>weight reduction. On my RV-10 I will only prime the materials Van
>requires. The
>exterior will be a system that requires minimum priming and overall weight.
>Mine is a great airplane, but heavy. It sure goes better solo, and this
>weekend I went off with about 15 gallons of fuel and myself, it is a
>different
>airplane.
>
>If you tie down on the ocean, or in it, prime. Otherwise just maintain.
>
>Bruce Patton
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV-8 vert.stab angle |
--> RV-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@attcanada.ca>
I am about to lineup my vertical stab
I have an RV-8 with a 180HP lycoming.
Can someone with this settup tell
me how much they had to trim their rudder
and which way?
I plan to line it up per vans directions,
but if I do error a small amount,which
direction should I error in?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@attcanada.ca
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Slider skin fit help |
10/23/2003 09:42:14 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
You might need to fiberglass a section of the skirts to make them conform
to the contour of the fuselage. I am building an 8A and after I trim the
canopy skirts to make them straight I will more thanlikely have to add a
layer/layup of fiberglass to make them fit just right.
Regards
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Tank to Leading Edge Fit Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
Thanks for all the input on the tank skin to LE skin fit issue. It'll
likely be Sunday before I can get back out there and fiddle with it but
you all have given me a number of good things to check and try. I feel
sure now that I can get the fit adjusted to my satisfaction. I really
appreciate everyone taking time to look at the issue and provide such
good thoughts on how to proceed. I'll let ya know how it turns out. :)
-- Dwight
Message 7
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| Subject: | Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Go to Bob Nuckoll's website (see below) and scroll down to the article on
wig-wags. It will take you to a PDF file that gives you three different
methods of wiring a Gall's flasher to do the job. There are some other ways
too. Eric Jones sells a little module that does the job, as I believe does
Bob Hahn.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am going
to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
-Mike
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
You can wire the landing lights any way you want. If you want them both
to come on with the same switch, than you could use one three-position
switch for "OFF/ON/WIGWAG." If you want each light on seperate
switches, you could use two switches, with the wig-wag on one, or three
seperate switches. In short, there are many ways to wire the switches
and lights, depending on what you want to accomplish.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finishing
Milwaukee WI
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I have one too, and have three different ways to wire it, but my site is
down. I think my hosting provider went TU...
Should have it back up sometime today...
-Bill VonDane
www.creativair.com
www.vondane.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Go to Bob Nuckoll's website (see below) and scroll down to the article on
wig-wags. It will take you to a PDF file that gives you three different
methods of wiring a Gall's flasher to do the job. There are some other ways
too. Eric Jones sells a little module that does the job, as I believe does
Bob Hahn.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am going
to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
-Mike
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Del Schneider" <del@deltech.ca>
I need a seal for the back of the slider on my RV6. I saw a RV6A at Falcon
Field in Mesa, AZ where the owner had used a silicon foam rubber seal with
an adhesive back to keep the cold air off his neck. In AZ this breeze is not
as cool as it is here in northern Canada. Can anyone help before I catch a
cold.
C-GZVD
Del Schneider
Prince George, BC. Canada
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
B&C also sells one: http://www.bandc.biz/WigWag.html
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Go to Bob Nuckoll's website (see below) and scroll down to the article on
> wig-wags. It will take you to a PDF file that gives you three different
> methods of wiring a Gall's flasher to do the job. There are some other
ways
> too. Eric Jones sells a little module that does the job, as I believe
does
> Bob Hahn.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A finishing
>
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV@aol.com
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am
going
> to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
>
> Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
> switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
> incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
> wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
> -Mike
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Slider skin fit help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Mike,
A couple of suggestions. You need to be really aggressive in pulling the
skins down and forward--over compensate for the looseness in the clecos.
The more holes you drill and the more clecos that go in the better, and the
skins should start to lay flat the further down you go. Try using the type
of clecos that screw in to hold tighter. Make sure that when you finally
put rivets in these holes that the canopy is off the fuse so that there is
nothing pushing the skirts up. Here is a picture of mine (RV-6) if this
helps???
http://home.bellsouth.net/p/PWP-pathatch
Go to the Photo Gallery, then page number 7.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-7 Slider skin fit help
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> I am having a difficult time fitting the rear skins on the slider canopy
on a RV-7. I am following Van's directions and I cannot seem to get the
skin to lay flat on the top area about 0-3" from the rear center slider
track. I have shaved the canopy flat in this area (to prevent the ski slope
up affect) which helped, but I still have about a 1/8" gap. When I pull the
skins forward as I drill them, they seem to lay flat, but once I put a cleco
in them, the pop back up. I am starting at the top center and working my
way down to the side. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vert.stab angle |
--> RV-List message posted by: a flyer <aflyer@direcway.com>
Van's instructions say to line it up straight with the centerline of the
fuse. I did my best to do that, and if it is off, it is too small for me to
see or measure. I have no tab on my rudder, the airplane flies straight at
cruise speed. Could be pure luck of course.
The motor mount is canted to the right a little to help compensate for the
left turning forces. You will still need right rudder on take off and climb,
and left in descents. A local fellow designed in a rudder trim system, but
the forces required are light, and I am happy with it as is.
John Huft
Pagosa Springs, CO
RV8 135 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@attcanada.ca>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 vert.stab angle
> --> RV-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@attcanada.ca>
>
> I am about to lineup my vertical stab
> I have an RV-8 with a 180HP lycoming.
> Can someone with this settup tell
> me how much they had to trim their rudder
> and which way?
> I plan to line it up per vans directions,
> but if I do error a small amount,which
> direction should I error in?
>
> GEORGE H. INMAN
> ghinman@attcanada.ca
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Mike,
I laid mine out with 3 switches, one each for "Taxi," "Landing," and "Pulse"
functions. Bob Nuckolls has a schematic at Aeroelectic.com and he also
sells the WigWag circuit. The left wing light is the Taxi, right wing
Landing, and either one takes precedence over the Pulse position. The only
difference is that the Taxi light is angled down further for the 3-point
attitude. Hope this makes sense.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am
going to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
>
> Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
> -Mike
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | FAB Airbox Bolts FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
Listers,
Since reading/hearing reports of ingested FAB carb attach bolts/tabs using
the metal tab lock washers supplied in the FAB airbox kit, I ordered up
some MS20074 drilled head bolts to attach the FAB with instead
(safety-wired in place).
Upon removing the airbox last night to perform the swap, I discovered the
metal tabs had begun corroding after 58hrs of flight time (and 38hrs since
last inspection). I'll feel much more secure flying over the Sawtooths
after replacing these rusted puppies with safety-wired bolts.
Just a heads up.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying imho ymmv etc)
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: FAB Airbox Bolts FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Rob,
Can you post the bolt size/spec, price & ordering information, so that I can get
them on order?
Thanks,
Chris Good
RV-6A
--
--------- Original Message ---------
DATE: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 14:20:10
From: <racker@rmci.net>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>Since reading/hearing reports of ingested FAB carb attach bolts/tabs using
>the metal tab lock washers supplied in the FAB airbox kit, I ordered up
>some MS20074 drilled head bolts to attach the FAB with instead
>(safety-wired in place).
>
>Upon removing the airbox last night to perform the swap, I discovered the
>metal tabs had begun corroding after 58hrs of flight time (and 38hrs since
>last inspection). I'll feel much more secure flying over the Sawtooths
>after replacing these rusted puppies with safety-wired bolts.
>
>Just a heads up.
>
>Rob Acker (RV-6 flying imho ymmv etc)
http://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;6413623;3807821;f?http://mocda3.com/1/c/563632/125699/307982/307982
This offer applies to U.S. Residents Only
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
Del,
I used a seal from ACS, pg 124 of the latest catalog, pn 05-01900.
It's a "V" seal that I glued on to the inside of the fuse skin using
weather striping adhesive, facing back. The air pressure pushes the
seal up against the canopy skirt. Works well.
Hope this sketch helps.....
_____________ canopy skirt
fwd
/ seal aft
/ ___________ aft fuse skin
|______
Now filling the hole around the slider track is a tougher problem. I
just redid my skirt to have the smallest possible cover possible.
Good luck.
Laird RV-6 slider
SoCal (107 F yesterday....)
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Del Schneider" <del@deltech.ca>
>
>I need a seal for the back of the slider on my RV6. I saw a RV6A at Falcon
>Field in Mesa, AZ where the owner had used a silicon foam rubber seal with
>an adhesive back to keep the cold air off his neck. In AZ this breeze is not
>as cool as it is here in northern Canada. Can anyone help before I catch a
>cold.
>
>C-GZVD
>Del Schneider
>Prince George, BC. Canada
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
If you use the AeroConnection Wig-Wag flasher you will need a seperate
switch. You can download the schematic from their website.
Mike Robertson
>From: N223RV@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Wig Wag Light wiring question
>Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2003 09:53:06 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
>Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are wired and switched? I am going
>to have landing lights on each wing tip with the wig-wag hooked up.
>
>Am I to have both a left and right switch for the landing lights, or one
>switch for both? Is the Wig-wag an additional switch or is it all
>incorporated in one switch? I am trying to lay out my panel and I'm
>wondering if I need 1, 2, or 3 switches. Thanks in advance for any help!
>-Mike
>
>
Surf and talk on the phone at the same time with broadband Internet access.
Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service
providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: FAB Airbox Bolts FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
www.airpartsinc.com, p/n MS20074-04-4, $1.55 ea.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
>
> Rob,
>
> Can you post the bolt size/spec, price & ordering information, so that I
> can get them on order?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris Good
> RV-6A
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 vert.stab angle |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@attcanada.ca>
>
> I am about to lineup my vertical stab
>I have an RV-8 with a 180HP lycoming.
> Can someone with this settup tell
>me how much they had to trim their rudder
>and which way?
> I plan to line it up per vans directions,
>but if I do error a small amount,which
>direction should I error in?
>
>GEORGE H. INMAN
>ghinman@attcanada.ca
I installed my VS dead nuts straight...right down the centerline of the
fuselage. With feet off the pedals it flies straight, with maybe just a
tiny bit of right rudder pressure required for a perfectly centered ball.
The mere weight of my foot on the pedal is all it takes. No mental or
physical effort is required. Your results may vary, of course, but I would
err to a slight displacement of the VS leading edge to the left of
centerline. Any offset may impact the way your kit supplied tail faring
fits, so just be prepared for that.
Good luck.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
180 hp/Sensenich
Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has exceeded
Message 21
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| Subject: | Fiberglass emphenage fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
Hopefully a simple question. My emp fairing is fiberglass top piece and one
small strip to mount below the horizontal stab on each side. Question is where
the two pieces meet at the leading edge of the horiz stab, how is that joint
fashioned? Fiberglass into one piece or let the upper piece overlap the smaller
bottom as is what seems to be intended by their shape. Any physical bonding
of the two required? Thanks in advance.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N924PL (reserved)
Getting closer to paint on my RV4 :(
Bay City, Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
I had individual sws.for each side before I added wig-wag so I have 3 sws.2
on panel and one on stick to turn w/w on. Ollie
----- Original Message ----- > Does anyone know how the Wig-Wag lights are
wired and switched? I am going to have landing lights on each wing tip with
the wig-wag hooked up.
> >
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
After sealing my tank inspection plates and senders with proseal (no gaskets)
last weekend, I pressure checked my tanks today. There were big leaks around
the -6 fittings that had been pre-installed in the inspection plates!
I specifically checked these fittings for sealant before installing the cover
plates. I could see a very small amount of proseal around the fittings on the
insides of the plates. Although no sealant was visible around the washer or
nut on the outsides of the plates, I assumed that the fitting was sealed
properly. After all, they did pressure-test the sucker.
When I found the leaks I removed the nut and washer from the outsides of the
plates. Guess what -- no proseal whatsoever behind the washer, around the
fitting, or on the threads. In fact, on one wing there wasn't even enough
proseal inside to hold the fitting in the hole -- I could wiggle it with my
fingers no problem.
I don't know if they just forgot or if there is a quality control problem
here, but these fittings were bound to leak the way they sealed them. (FYI,
my quickbuild wings were delivered in November 2002.)
Which brings me to my next problem... I no longer have access to the insides
of the tanks, so I'll have to seal these fittings from the outside. Since I
can't get a wrench on the backside of the fitting, I'll have to use the
anti-rotation bracket as a "wrench" to hold the fitting as I tighten the nut.
This made me wonder -- there is no way to hold the fitting with a wrench, so
what will keep it from moving (the slight amount allowed by the hole in the
anti-rotation bracket) every time the fuel line is connected or disconnected?
My reference book says that nuts for -6 fittings should be torqued 75-125
inch-pounds. I just don't see how I can use that kind of force on the fuel
line nut without the fitting moving -- even with the jam nut in place against
the rib.
Also, since I don't have any proseal left (I used the kind that comes in the
calking gun tube), I'm going to try sealing the fittings with Aviation
Permatex form-a-gasket. I've read bad things about this stuff in the
archives, but those posts were in reference to using Permatex in conjunction
with the cork gaskets on the cover plates. I *think* it should work okay in
this metal-to-metal application of sealing the washer, nut, and threads of a
fitting. Does anyone have any comments for me regarding this -- pro or con?
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
Message 24
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| Subject: | Fiberglass emphenage fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Hi Pat
If I remember correctly, the two bottom pieces meet the top piece right at
the leading edge. The best looking solution in my opinion, and what I did
was to cut a short length of the bottom pieces from the front and glass them
to the top piece to make the joint under the horizontal stabilizer and much
less visible. Don't make the pieces too long, as it will make the top
piece to hard to get on. The remaining bottom pieces I hold on by drilling
and tapping the upper longeron.
Good luck
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of PGLong@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass emphenage fairing
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
Hopefully a simple question. My emp fairing is fiberglass top piece and one
small strip to mount below the horizontal stab on each side. Question is
where
the two pieces meet at the leading edge of the horiz stab, how is that joint
fashioned? Fiberglass into one piece or let the upper piece overlap the
smaller
bottom as is what seems to be intended by their shape. Any physical bonding
of the two required? Thanks in advance.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N924PL (reserved)
Getting closer to paint on my RV4 :(
Bay City, Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
What is the best way to be assured of a sound pitot static system? I'm
using the nylon fittings on the back of the instruments and plain nylon
tubing. The connections seem tight -- I can't pull them apart. When I
blow on the pitot line the airspeed on the ASI and Dynon goes up -- I
seal the end of the line and watch it leak down to zero within 10
seconds. I assume this is a bad sign. Is everyone else using the nylon
fittings, or something else?
Thx,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8. Only 110% to go...
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 26
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| Subject: | Main Gear Shimmy 6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
I thought this might be interesting for the list. I ran Van's main gear
tires on my main gear for about 250 hours, and was able to avoid shimmy
on landing rollout by keeping the pressure below about 40psi. I'd still
get a little transient shimmy from time to time, but no big deal. I
installed new Michelin tires about 100 hours ago, and have experienced
about the same thing, although it seems to take a lower pressure to
eliminate the shimmy, perhaps 35psi. The problem with the lower
pressures is the difficulty pushing the plane back into the hanger,
especially in winter, so I'd really like to run them around 45psi
minimum.
I read on this list that some have had good luck by balancing the wheel
fairings fore and aft around the axle, by putting lead or something in
the very nose of the fairing. I did this, and the problem got worse!
An outside observer noted that the gear are moving fore and aft, and
this occurs at about 24knots. It feels quite significant inside the
plane. I do feel that the stresses on the fairing mounts are less when
the fairings are balanced (when the tire hits a bump, the fairing
doesn't try to pitch), for what that's worth.
It looks like my options are: heave harder in the winter or put the wood
stiffeners on.
I'll let you know the outcome...
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 294 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Wig Wag Light wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Although it is easier to wire using a seperate switch, you could re-wire
your existing lights with a double pole, double throw progressive
transfer switch (2-10 type.) I did this and it works like a charm.
Check out the second schematic at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/WigWag/WigWag.pdf and you'll see
what I'm talking about.
Jeff Point
RV-6 finishing
Milwaukee WI
Mike Robertson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
>If you use the AeroConnection Wig-Wag flasher you will need a seperate
>switch. You can download the schematic from their website.
>
>Mike Robertson
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Geoff,
I could be wrong about this but I think I remember seeing a post on the List
indicating that Vans now stocks the mixable tank sealant in small volumes
now.
In any case I am inclined to advise removing the tank inspection plates that
you installed and doing what you have to do to re-seal the leaking fittings
etc. and then re-installing the covers with the full knowledge that all is
right and proper in this particularly important area. I believe it will be
worth the effort and small cost to you later on at altitude.
LOL,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Geoff Evans" <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Heads up -- QB fuel tank fittings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
> After sealing my tank inspection plates and senders with proseal (no
gaskets)
> last weekend, I pressure checked my tanks today. There were big leaks
around
> the -6 fittings that had been pre-installed in the inspection plates!
>SNIP<
> Also, since I don't have any proseal left (I used the kind that comes in
the
> calking gun tube), I'm going to try sealing the fittings with Aviation
> Permatex form-a-gasket. I've read bad things about this stuff in the
> archives, but those posts were in reference to using Permatex in
conjunction
> with the cork gaskets on the cover plates. I *think* it should work okay
in
> this metal-to-metal application of sealing the washer, nut, and threads of
a
> fitting. Does anyone have any comments for me regarding this -- pro or
con?
>
> Thanks.
> -Geoff
> RV-8 QB
>
> __________________________________
>
>
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Larry,
I just recently did my static system using some AN, Teflon
threadlube/sealant, the AN seals, aluminum tube and nylon tube. Haven't
done the pitot yet but it'll be similar except right out at the head as I
have a heated tube.
I used a MyTVac to test the leakdown - mine's good to 250'/hr. Gotta take
the VSI out of the system for low alt (<2500')testing with the vac pump and
both the VSI and ASI out of the system for high alt (>2500'-20k')testing.
I built this stuff into my removable panel - digital pics if you want them -
I've already had a bunch of requests......contact me directly.
Ralph Capen
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Pitot leaks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
>
> What is the best way to be assured of a sound pitot static system? I'm
> using the nylon fittings on the back of the instruments and plain nylon
> tubing. The connections seem tight -- I can't pull them apart. When I
> blow on the pitot line the airspeed on the ASI and Dynon goes up -- I
> seal the end of the line and watch it leak down to zero within 10
> seconds. I assume this is a bad sign. Is everyone else using the nylon
> fittings, or something else?
>
> Thx,
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8. Only 110% to go...
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
Saw the RV10 manual today. BOY! What a really nice construction manual. It's
has to be the nicest in the industry. Way to go Van's.
Jerry Wilken
RV6A 175 hrs
N699WP
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 Slider skin fit help |
at.a.big.ISP@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
for the archives
Hi Mike,
The rear skirts can give you a mental workout! Be patient......I made 5
skirts (2 left and 3 right) before I finally figured it out :
).
2 things that will help big time:
1 - Take one skirt at time and clamp the upper (center) section on the edge
of the skirt to your work bench with a couple strong clamps. Then take the free
end (that will connect to the side skirt) in your hands and start "twisting"
the skirt. You'll be twisting it well past the 90 deg mark (from the clamped
end) and will approach the 180 deg mark at the opposite end of the skirt.
You'll need to be quite 'aggressive' with this but at the same time you don't want
any 'kinks' in the metal. The left skirt will be twisted clockwise and the
right skirt will be twisted counterclockwise for reasons that will become
obvious. You may even place both ends by the clamped end and start working your
way
'out'. By doing this you will 'shape' your skirts to the fuselage and REMOVE
any preload.
2 - (Not sure if you're too late for this or not) - add about 1/8" to 5/32"
spacers UNDER the rear slider plastic blocks that the slider 'pins' go into (I
forget the #'s). This will raise the rear of the slider frame up when in the
'closed' position. Then, when you fit the rear skirts nice and snug - they will
be REAL nice and snug when you REMOVE the spacers from under the plastic
blocks.
forget the fiberglass - you will NOT need it
Works every time!
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
I am having a difficult time fitting the rear skins on the slider canopy on a
RV-7. I am following Van's directions and I cannot seem to get the skin to
lay flat on the top area about 0-3" from the rear center slider track. I have
shaved the canopy flat in this area (to prevent the ski slope up affect) which
helped, but I still have about a 1/8" gap. When I pull the skins forward as
I drill them, they seem to lay flat, but once I put a cleco in them, the pop
back up. I am starting at the top center and working my way down to the side.
Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks
-Mike Kraus
Message 32
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| Subject: | How Much Primer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joshua Siler" <joshs@ninatek.com>
Bruce,
How much does your RV weigh empty? How much of that weight do you attribute
to primer?
Regards,
Josh
Curious RV-7 builder, empennage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of BPattonsoa@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: How Much Primer?
--> RV-List message posted by: BPattonsoa@aol.com
My RV-6A is completely primed inside and out. I live in the Central Coast
of
California. One of my major lessons learned on this one was the need for
weight reduction. On my RV-10 I will only prime the materials Van requires.
The
exterior will be a system that requires minimum priming and overall weight.
Mine is a great airplane, but heavy. It sure goes better solo, and this
weekend I went off with about 15 gallons of fuel and myself, it is a
different
airplane.
If you tie down on the ocean, or in it, prime. Otherwise just maintain.
Bruce Patton
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: dipstick & tube--help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <thecomptons@bellsouth.net>
----- Original Message ----- >
I have an overhauled O360A1A that I just put its first 6 quarts of oil in.
The dipstick shows that it has 5 quarts in it. No oil has yet circulated
through the oil lines or filter. This core when received did not have a
dipstick or tube, I ordered a new tube #75767 from an engine shop. It is
approx. 11 1/2" from tip of tube to engine base. The dipstick was a used
one from (supposedly) an O360A1A 8 quart system (it is imprinted "8" on
top). I don't know if I have the wrong dipstick or tube, any suggestions?
>
> Dave Ford
Dave:
I may be being presumptuous, but I think the other replies are missing the
point of your question.
Yes, if you have put 6 quarts in the engine via the filler/dipstick tube,
you should also be showing 6 quarts on the stick markings. That's all that
matters. Once you fire up the motor, sure, the quantity of oil in the sump
will drop as the oil fills the the various lines, etc. (But not much at all
if all you did was drain the oil but not change out the filter, which is
fodder for a whole 'nother oil debate.) And you'll just add whatever it
takes to get the sump level back up to where you like/need it.
As with any of this airplane stuff, you'll hear all kinds of advice: fill
it up; no don't do that, fill to 7; no don't, it'll just blow it down to 6;
no it won't, just down to 61/2.... The bottom line is that each motor kind
of has its own comfort level, so to speak, and you'll find out what yours
is. In any case, the stick needs to show what is actually in the sump, in
the attitude that the airplane sits, when you measure it. It is an oil sump
level, not oil system level, measuring device.
Anyhow, you can either custom make a stick - something I am now dealing with
myself - or see if you can buy a tube/stick that works. In my case, due to
my dynafocal ring/engine mount structure, a stock Lycoming tube/stick of
proper length for my particular O-320 is too close to the mount to be
assured that there would not be contact as the engine moves around a bit.
So, I found a filler tube of a length that works, now I just have to make
the dipstick. I've heard that you can get some welding rod to use as a
blank stick and then emboss marks as needed.
Unfortunately, so far I have not found a welding shop that has any rod in
the diameter that will work with the dipstick cap. In the meantime, I
scribed extra marks on the current stick that match what my engine takes.
Since my marks are, shall we say, somewhat crude as compared to the existing
factory marks, I have no trouble figuring out which ones to use when
determining the amount oil in the sump.
Fly safe,
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Message 34
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| Subject: | Ford Javelin 230 HP V6 for RV or?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis and Stephanie Smith" <famflier@centurytel.net>
Hello Friends
I am new to the RV family. Getting ready to build a RV-10. I recently sold
a Glasair project in order to do the RV. In doing so I now have a 230 HP
Ford Javelin V6 with 2:1 reduction that I need to sell. It just won't work
for the -10, but it could work well for a RV-6,-7,or -8. or several other
projects as well. We have a new -6A with a Chevy V6 on our airport just
being readied to fly for the first time!
If anyone out there would be interested in this enigne for their RV, I am
asking $5000 or best offer. It was actually mounted on a Christavia Mk IV,
so I have a mount for that application. It has only 2 hours run time on it,
and comes with everything ready to bolt on and run (except RV mount and
prop). It is a beautiful engine with excellent workmanship. I wish I could
use it myself.
Where else can you get 230 HP for $5K?
Any interest let me know.
I pick up my -10 empennage kit tomorrow and wing kit in a couple of months.
Will let you guys know how it goes.
Thanks
Dennis S
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