Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:42 AM - RV-7 - Edge distance on HS-405 (Dave Ghost)
2. 05:31 AM - Re: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing (Neil McLeod)
3. 06:33 AM - Propeller (J. R. Dial)
4. 07:37 AM - Re: RV-8 firewall duct location? (Larry Bowen)
5. 08:36 AM - Van's Windscreen Antenna (Neil Henderson)
6. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing (Randy Lervold)
7. 09:29 AM - Re: oil cooler flow direction (Cy Galley)
8. 10:09 AM - Re: firesleeve prop governor hose (Doug Weiler)
9. 10:22 AM - Re: firesleeve prop governor hose (RV6 Flyer)
10. 10:55 AM - Re: firesleeve prop governor hose (Alex Peterson)
11. 11:41 AM - Sheet metal brake (Terry Watson)
12. 11:52 AM - Re: dipstick & tube--help (Kosta Lewis)
13. 12:21 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Gert)
14. 12:51 PM - Re: Propeller (kempthornes)
15. 02:43 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Tedd McHenry)
16. 02:52 PM - >Re:Sheet Metal Brake (Bob n' Lu Olds)
17. 03:35 PM - Re: Propeller (Stein Bruch)
18. 04:22 PM - Re: Propeller (Marcel)
19. 04:25 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (a flyer)
20. 06:07 PM - RV7 Ground Buss (LarryRobertHelming)
21. 06:18 PM - Re: >Re:Sheet Metal Brake (Gert)
22. 07:04 PM - RV 10 Engines (Eustace Bowhay)
23. 07:57 PM - Re: RV 10 Engines (Dennis and Stephanie Smith)
24. 08:23 PM - RV Builder IM Network (Dan Checkoway)
25. 09:33 PM - Re: RV 10 Engines (Darwin N. Barrie)
26. 10:20 PM - Re: RV7 Ground Buss (GMC)
27. 10:45 PM - Re: Propeller (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV-7 - Edge distance on HS-405 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ghost" <daveghost@earthlink.net>
I noticed after match-drilling the HS-601 (skin) to the to the skeleton,
that the edge distance on the forward-most hole on the HS-405 flange (where
it slips into the flange of the HS-702) is not much more than 1 diameter.
This is measured from the forward (or short) edge of the flange, not the
inboard long edge. It would seem Im having trouble getting the 405 to slip
far enough into the 702. Does anyone have advice on how to get a more
acceptable edge distance in that area? Im ordering another 702 and 405 to
attempt to get a bit more margin, and sure could use a bit of advice from
someone whos had success with this.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
RV-7 Empennage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
Thanks Randy,
What I was hoping for was somthing with a little less diameter for us side
by side guys.
Looking forward to your flight report!
Neil
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
>
> The 200RV is a new 2-blade model designed specifically for RVs. It uses a
> McCauley 215 hub instead of the 220 hub of the 200C. This hub is smaller
and
> lighter and better suited for the RV. It then has a brand new airfoil that
> Jim Rust came up with after consulting with a couple of industry gurus.
>
> I'll post pics of it probably tomorrow. I flew it today but didn't do any
> testing.
>
> Randy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
> >
> > Randy,
> >
> > How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV?
> >
> > Neil McLeod
> > still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > To: <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>;
> > <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > >
> > > Scott,
> > >
> > > I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it today,
> > installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for the
> > complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the
Hartzell.
> > I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next
> > weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page on my
> web
> > site found at...
> > > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
> > >
> > > Randy Lervold
> > > www.rv-8.com
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Scott Clarkson
> > > To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
> > > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM
> > > Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> > >
> > >
> > > I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order
and
> I
> > still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell models
> for
> > weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice
people)
> > but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm
> > intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the
> > beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for
> > smoothness and weight savings.
> > >
> > > In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing
should
> > remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go with.
I
> > would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and
> Van's
> > spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250"
PVC
> > prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too long.
> > They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer length
> so
> > I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using this
> method?
> > I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along.
> > >
> > > Thanks in advance,
> > > Scott Clarkson
> > > Propellerless in NJ
> > >
> > >
> > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > >
> > >
> > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > >
> > >
> > > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
> > >
> > > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
> > >
> > > rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
(under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
Thanks
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV-8 firewall duct location? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
My duct is beneath the battery tray on the firewall. This makes for a
real short scat tube run from the right exhaust. It enters in the deep
part of the fwd baggage, where more scat tube runs aft to the baggage
wall next to the gear box. An eyeball vent directs the heat from there.
I've dedicated the deep part of the fwd baggage compartment to utility
closet status. I have the scat tube, wires and a grounding block down
there. I'll eventually make a cover or door that goes across the top to
extend the baggage floor all the way across. No regrets so far....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack Blomgren [mailto:jackanet@hotmail.com]
> Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 9:24 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-8 firewall duct location?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
>
> -8 Builders,
>
> Is there any accepted best (X-Y) location through a -8
> firewall for cockpit
> heater duct entrance? Your knowledge and/or experience much
> appreciated.
> Guessing this work easier done before hanging engine, right?
> Thanks in
> advance.
>
> Jack
>
Message 5
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<rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Van's Windscreen Antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
Listers
I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's antenna. At $7
I assume it can only be a BNC bulkhead connector and a length of self adhisive
copper tape. As I have both items to hand in my tool box this could be a very
economic route to take. Could anyone who has installed one confirm my assumption
and does the installation perform sarisfactorily.
Neil Henderson RV9-A Nr Aylesbury UK
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
Fear not, the 200RV is a 72" diameter and will work on any RV.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
>
> Thanks Randy,
>
> What I was hoping for was somthing with a little less diameter for us side
> by side guys.
> Looking forward to your flight report!
>
> Neil
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> >
> > The 200RV is a new 2-blade model designed specifically for RVs. It uses
a
> > McCauley 215 hub instead of the 220 hub of the 200C. This hub is smaller
> and
> > lighter and better suited for the RV. It then has a brand new airfoil
that
> > Jim Rust came up with after consulting with a couple of industry gurus.
> >
> > I'll post pics of it probably tomorrow. I flew it today but didn't do
any
> > testing.
> >
> > Randy
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Neil McLeod" <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod <neilmcleod@direcway.com>
> > >
> > > Randy,
> > >
> > > How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV?
> > >
> > > Neil McLeod
> > > still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > > To: <rv8list@yahoogroups.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>;
> > > <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@rv-8.com>
> > > >
> > > > Scott,
> > > >
> > > > I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it
today,
> > > installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for
the
> > > complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the
> Hartzell.
> > > I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next
> > > weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page on
my
> > web
> > > site found at...
> > > > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm
> > > >
> > > > Randy Lervold
> > > > www.rv-8.com
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Scott Clarkson
> > > > To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com
> > > > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM
> > > > Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order
> and
> > I
> > > still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell
models
> > for
> > > weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice
> people)
> > > but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm
> > > intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the
> > > beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for
> > > smoothness and weight savings.
> > > >
> > > > In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing
> should
> > > remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go
with.
> I
> > > would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and
> > Van's
> > > spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250"
> PVC
> > > prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too
long.
> > > They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer
length
> > so
> > > I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using this
> > method?
> > > I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > Scott Clarkson
> > > > Propellerless in NJ
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ADVERTISEMENT
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits.
> > > >
> > > > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO :
> > > >
> > > > rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: oil cooler flow direction |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Having the oil flow up might be better to eliminate air pockets and bubbles.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler flow direction
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Is there a hard and fast rule about which direction the oil should flow in
a
> vertically oriented oil cooler? According to Van's fwf kit drawings, the
> oil should flow UP through the cooler, flowing into the bottom port and
out
> of the top port.
>
> Does oil cooling suffer in any way if you reverse the flow, so that the
oil
> flows into the top port and flows DOWN through the cooler?
>
> Just wanted to get the skinny on this before I decide what my oil cooler
> hose setup will be. In some ways it will be much easier to have oil
flowing
> DOWN through the cooler. The Jihostroj governor bracket really gets in
the
> way!
>
> Thanks in advance,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: firesleeve prop governor hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dougweil@pressenter.com>
>
> Do try to keep the firesleeve on the governor hose.
> The engine Guru says, it will help insure longest life of the hose. there
is
> a lot of heat radiated off the exhaust down there. Note that the ends of
the
> firesleeve are sealed with an rtv type of sealant to keep oil mist from
> collecting inside the firesleeve. this is an effort to isolate the hose
> inside the stainless shroud from oil, moisture etc. I have done the same
> with all the other firesleeved hoses.
>
Yes, the hole is somewhat large but very doable. My flying RV-4 with my
Aerosport engine uses this same configuration and I didn't find it a
problem. Yes, I would definitely retain the firesleeve.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: firesleeve prop governor hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Dan:
The Lycoming HOSE has firesleeve on it. I had my own 3,000 PSI Teflon with
stainless braind hose made for my governor. It does NOT have firesleeve on
it like the Lycoming part does. Been flying it for over 6 years now.
Leave the firesleeve on to keep your engine as close to certification as
possible but from experience on one airplane, it is not necessary.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,389 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: firesleeve prop governor hose
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
On my AeroSport IO-360, the prop governor oil hose is firesleeved...that's
how it came from Bart. I'm curious if firesleeve is required and/or advised
for this hose, i.e. it's considered bad practice NOT to firesleeve it.
The reason I'm asking is because removing the firesleeve is going to
simplify being able to install the hose through the front baffle.
Otherwise, with the firesleeve and its clamp in place, the hole in the front
baffle floor needs to be huuuge.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet
Message 10
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| Subject: | firesleeve prop governor hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> The Lycoming HOSE has firesleeve on it. I had my own 3,000
> PSI Teflon with
> stainless braind hose made for my governor. It does NOT have
> firesleeve on
> it like the Lycoming part does. Been flying it for over 6 years now.
>
> Leave the firesleeve on to keep your engine as close to
> certification as
> possible but from experience on one airplane, it is not necessary.
I would suspect that during normal operations, firesleeve is rarely
necessary. They are needed when an exhaust pipe cracks, or a cylinder
cracks, and hot gasses are blown onto the hose. Or, heaven forbid, a
fire occurs. The idea is to minimize adding fuel (oil) to an already
bad situation. A couple minutes could make the difference between a bad
day and a really bad day.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 395 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 11
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| Subject: | Sheet metal brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting things
like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have been
thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination
shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do any
of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do
what I need to do with tools I might already have.
Thanks.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA
Message 12
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| Subject: | dipstick & tube--help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
> A neat way to make new marks on a dipstick is to lightly score the
stick
> with a tubing cutter.
Then you file 3 areas sort of flat next to the scribed areas and stamp
them 4, 5 and 6 with your number dies.
Michael
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Yeah, when you buy a sheet metal brake to set sheet aluminum, make sure
the die nose is radiused sufficiently, don't get a (cheap) brake with
dies which have sharp corners (like a pan brake), you'll set yourself up
for frustration and failure due to cracking.
At least, if you buy a cheap brake like a chicago something or other,
which are not bad brakes, grind a radius on the dies or have somebody
grind a preset radius for you.
Gert
Terry Watson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting things
> like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have been
> thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination
> shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do any
> of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do
> what I need to do with tools I might already have.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A finishing
> Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 08:32 AM 10/26/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
> I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
>(under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
>metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
I'm happy with mine. 85" is right for the 180. Wood is cheaper, smoother,
lighter while CS is....
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
--snip--
>
> Yeah, when you buy a sheet metal brake to set sheet aluminum, make sure
> the die nose is radiused sufficiently,
I recently bought a Magnabrake (electromagnetic brake). It has fairly sharp
radius dies, but the manual shows how you can use drill rod to make bends with
more generous radii. I don't know if that's feasible on a conventional brake.
(I expect the Magnabrake is prohibively expensive for most builders, but I got
mine, used, at a very good price.)
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:Sheet Metal Brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks@aol.com>
I use a 24" brake from Harbor Freight Tools and am happy with it. I bent a strip
of galvanized tin to fit around the nose for a radius to bend aluminum. Soft
.040 aluminum would work too.
I have bent all I needed to bend for our RV-4 with it.
$120 from: http://www.harborfreight.com
Bob Olds RV-4
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I have the metal spinner and 85" prop. I REALLY like the spinner, mostly
because it comes out of the box ready to mount. Everything is straight,
true, no cutting or trimming and it tracks perfectly. I now have two of
them, one on my 360 powered RV6 and another on my 320 powered -6. Both are
beatiful.
That being said, I have them because I bought the props used (25hrs) and
they came with the spinner. I'm not so sure that I would pop $400+ for one,
but that's mainly because I'm cheap, hence the reason for buying two second
hand props in the first place.
Regarding the 85" pitch, it seems about perfect for my 180/-6. I could use
an 87" at cruise, since I can easily spin up to 2800 RPM at almost any
altitude, but the additional 2" would cost in static RPM on the ground. As
it is, I only get 2150RPM static, so I don't want to lose much more. Gives
me cruise speeds of anywhere from 175-200mph depending on who's paying for
fuel.
Anyway best of luck, the metal spinners are really nice, but quite pricey.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: Propeller
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
(under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
Thanks
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Marcel" <mbourgon@elp.rr.com>
I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have set
propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a constant
speed
Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around
the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and it
is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around blade
I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount.
Thanks
Marcel in El Paso
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> I have the metal spinner and 85" prop. I REALLY like the spinner, mostly
> because it comes out of the box ready to mount. Everything is straight,
> true, no cutting or trimming and it tracks perfectly. I now have two of
> them, one on my 360 powered RV6 and another on my 320 powered -6. Both
are
> beatiful.
>
> That being said, I have them because I bought the props used (25hrs) and
> they came with the spinner. I'm not so sure that I would pop $400+ for
one,
> but that's mainly because I'm cheap, hence the reason for buying two
second
> hand props in the first place.
>
> Regarding the 85" pitch, it seems about perfect for my 180/-6. I could
use
> an 87" at cruise, since I can easily spin up to 2800 RPM at almost any
> altitude, but the additional 2" would cost in static RPM on the ground.
As
> it is, I only get 2150RPM static, so I don't want to lose much more.
Gives
> me cruise speeds of anywhere from 175-200mph depending on who's paying for
> fuel.
>
> Anyway best of luck, the metal spinners are really nice, but quite pricey.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Propeller
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
> (under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
> metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
> Thanks
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Sheet metal brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: a flyer <aflyer@direcway.com>
I have the combo 30" shear/brake/roller (Chinese made) from Harbor Freight.
I had it before I started, and I used it a ton. I think it is well worth the
money. It gets borrowed alot, but they always come to your shop, because it
weighs 350 lbs. The bending tool does have a radius on the nose.
John Huft RV8
Pagosa Springs, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RV-List: Sheet metal brake
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting
things
> like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have
been
> thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination
> shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do
any
> of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do
> what I need to do with tools I might already have.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A finishing
> Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA
>
>
Message 20
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HTML_WITH_BGCOLOR
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it, they
have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through the
firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is space for
the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the firewall for
receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the negative battery
post.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:Sheet Metal Brake |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Yup, got the same one, I gues, and I have done the same, sticking other
material under it to get some sort of radius, i found that the dies
don't do far enough back for the bigger radii.
Bob n' Lu Olds wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" <oldsfolks@aol.com>
>
> I use a 24" brake from Harbor Freight Tools and am happy with it. I bent a strip
of galvanized tin to fit around the nose for a radius to bend aluminum. Soft
.040 aluminum would work too.
> I have bent all I needed to bend for our RV-4 with it.
> $120 from: http://www.harborfreight.com
> Bob Olds RV-4
> Charleston,Arkansas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using engines
that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the Lycoming's
are still the best choice for his aircraft.
I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort into
trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them.
With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this remarkable
aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an engine in the
260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline pumping so I have been
doing some research as to what the final cost would be to build one.
I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found nothing that
comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in particular
caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but when I got into
the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment. It is 30 HP shy,
is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy thousand dollar range,
this did however include the prop and engine mount. Using a price of say sixty-five
thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference
would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some 17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if
one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10 at say 12 gals an hour it would
take 14-15 years to use it up.
Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this would
give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around 155 hours
of flying a year
But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders have
a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if we possibly
can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a quality overhaul
that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul's if flown and
maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even more important
with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three passengers.
I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been sold
good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the price may
go up.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis and Stephanie Smith" <famflier@centurytel.net>
Eustace
I wish there were some other good engine options for the RV-10. I have
started my kit already, but have not purchased an engine yet.
I think the turbo diesel would be a great option if it were more available,
but more than likely I will go with a IO-540. Wish I didn't have to spend
that much money, but right now I think it is the best option.
You are probably right about the availability of good cores for rebuilding.
Might be hard to come by. Doesn't a new IO-540 run about $37K?
Best of luck.
Dennis in Oregon
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using
engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the
Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft.
I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort
into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them
With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this
remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an
engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline
pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would
be to build one.
I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found
nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in
particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but
when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment.
It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy
thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount
Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport
I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some
17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10
at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up.
Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this
would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around
155 hours of flying a year
But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders
have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if
we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a
quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul
s if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even
more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three
passengers.
I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been
sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the
price may go up.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
Message 24
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<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | RV Builder IM Network |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Ok, I'm either going off the deep end, or I'm taking the internet to its
next logical step in the context of RV building resources...
http://www.rvproject.com/im
Let me know what you think! If you're interested in joining and being
listed, just IM me.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
(for the archive: instant message messaging yahoo aim aol msn icq trillian)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
The guys at www.crossflow.com are developing a FWF Subaru for the RV 10.
Turbocharged normalized to 12000 ft. I've got a 200 hp version on order for
my -7. They are great to work with and I believe will be a force in the RV
market. I plan to have mine flying in April 04.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using
engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
>
> Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the
Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft.
>
> I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge
effort into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to
them.
>
> With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this
remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an
engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline
pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would
be to build one.
>
> I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found
nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in
particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but
when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment.
It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy
thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount.
Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport
I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some
17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10
at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up.
>
> Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this
would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around
155 hours of flying a year
>
> But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders
have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if
we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a
quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between
overhaul's if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now
becomes even more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up
to three passengers.
>
> I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already
been sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the
price may go up.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
>
>
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Subject: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it, they
have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through the
firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is space for
the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the firewall for
receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the negative battery
post.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
Hi Larry
My experience is with my 6A so your -7 may be slightly different, however
one non-electrical consideration. If you have a oil filter you may not want
to have wires in the area where you will be removing the old oil filter.
It's hard to get the old filter out around wires and cables without spilling
oil and making a mess.
Suggest you put the ground block inside firewall about six inches right
(looking forward) of the firewall cutout and at or above oil filter height.
Run a stud through the brass ground block with inside of stud connected to
battery (-) and engine ground strap on forward side of stud.
My 0-320 had a nice spot for a ground strap near base of oil dipstick tube.
George McNutt
Langley BC
(Five filter changes!)
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/26/2003 4:26:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mbourgon@elp.rr.com writes:
I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have set
propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a constant
speed
Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around
the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and it
is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around blade
I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount.
1mm (.040").
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 671hrs)
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