---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 10/26/03: 27 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:42 AM - RV-7 - Edge distance on HS-405 (Dave Ghost) 2. 05:31 AM - Re: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing (Neil McLeod) 3. 06:33 AM - Propeller (J. R. Dial) 4. 07:37 AM - Re: RV-8 firewall duct location? (Larry Bowen) 5. 08:36 AM - Van's Windscreen Antenna (Neil Henderson) 6. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing (Randy Lervold) 7. 09:29 AM - Re: oil cooler flow direction (Cy Galley) 8. 10:09 AM - Re: firesleeve prop governor hose (Doug Weiler) 9. 10:22 AM - Re: firesleeve prop governor hose (RV6 Flyer) 10. 10:55 AM - Re: firesleeve prop governor hose (Alex Peterson) 11. 11:41 AM - Sheet metal brake (Terry Watson) 12. 11:52 AM - Re: dipstick & tube--help (Kosta Lewis) 13. 12:21 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Gert) 14. 12:51 PM - Re: Propeller (kempthornes) 15. 02:43 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (Tedd McHenry) 16. 02:52 PM - >Re:Sheet Metal Brake (Bob n' Lu Olds) 17. 03:35 PM - Re: Propeller (Stein Bruch) 18. 04:22 PM - Re: Propeller (Marcel) 19. 04:25 PM - Re: Sheet metal brake (a flyer) 20. 06:07 PM - RV7 Ground Buss (LarryRobertHelming) 21. 06:18 PM - Re: >Re:Sheet Metal Brake (Gert) 22. 07:04 PM - RV 10 Engines (Eustace Bowhay) 23. 07:57 PM - Re: RV 10 Engines (Dennis and Stephanie Smith) 24. 08:23 PM - RV Builder IM Network (Dan Checkoway) 25. 09:33 PM - Re: RV 10 Engines (Darwin N. Barrie) 26. 10:20 PM - Re: RV7 Ground Buss (GMC) 27. 10:45 PM - Re: Propeller (Vanremog@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:42:23 AM PST US From: "Dave Ghost" Subject: RV-List: RV-7 - Edge distance on HS-405 --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ghost" I noticed after match-drilling the HS-601 (skin) to the to the skeleton, that the edge distance on the forward-most hole on the HS-405 flange (where it slips into the flange of the HS-702) is not much more than 1 diameter. This is measured from the forward (or short) edge of the flange, not the inboard long edge. It would seem Im having trouble getting the 405 to slip far enough into the 702. Does anyone have advice on how to get a more acceptable edge distance in that area? Im ordering another 702 and 405 to attempt to get a bit more margin, and sure could use a bit of advice from someone whos had success with this. Thanks in advance, Dave RV-7 Empennage ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:31:19 AM PST US From: Neil McLeod Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing --> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod Thanks Randy, What I was hoping for was somthing with a little less diameter for us side by side guys. Looking forward to your flight report! Neil ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > > The 200RV is a new 2-blade model designed specifically for RVs. It uses a > McCauley 215 hub instead of the 220 hub of the 200C. This hub is smaller and > lighter and better suited for the RV. It then has a brand new airfoil that > Jim Rust came up with after consulting with a couple of industry gurus. > > I'll post pics of it probably tomorrow. I flew it today but didn't do any > testing. > > Randy > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Neil McLeod" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod > > > > Randy, > > > > How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV? > > > > Neil McLeod > > still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7 > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Randy Lervold" > > To: ; ; > > > > Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > > > > > > Scott, > > > > > > I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it today, > > installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for the > > complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the Hartzell. > > I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next > > weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page on my > web > > site found at... > > > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm > > > > > > Randy Lervold > > > www.rv-8.com > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: Scott Clarkson > > > To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com > > > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM > > > Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > > > > > > > > > I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order and > I > > still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell models > for > > weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice people) > > but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm > > intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the > > beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for > > smoothness and weight savings. > > > > > > In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing should > > remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go with. I > > would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and > Van's > > spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250" PVC > > prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too long. > > They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer length > so > > I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using this > method? > > I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along. > > > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > Scott Clarkson > > > Propellerless in NJ > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > ADVERTISEMENT > > > > > > > > > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits. > > > > > > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO : > > > > > > rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:33:22 AM PST US From: "J. R. Dial" Subject: RV-List: Propeller --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6 (under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something? Thanks ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:37:05 AM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 firewall duct location? --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" My duct is beneath the battery tray on the firewall. This makes for a real short scat tube run from the right exhaust. It enters in the deep part of the fwd baggage, where more scat tube runs aft to the baggage wall next to the gear box. An eyeball vent directs the heat from there. I've dedicated the deep part of the fwd baggage compartment to utility closet status. I have the scat tube, wires and a grounding block down there. I'll eventually make a cover or door that goes across the top to extend the baggage floor all the way across. No regrets so far.... - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Jack Blomgren [mailto:jackanet@hotmail.com] > Sent: Saturday, October 25, 2003 9:24 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: RV-8 firewall duct location? > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" > > -8 Builders, > > Is there any accepted best (X-Y) location through a -8 > firewall for cockpit > heater duct entrance? Your knowledge and/or experience much > appreciated. > Guessing this work easier done before hanging engine, right? > Thanks in > advance. > > Jack > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:36:05 AM PST US From: "Neil Henderson" Subject: RV-List: Van's Windscreen Antenna --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" Listers I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's antenna. At $7 I assume it can only be a BNC bulkhead connector and a length of self adhisive copper tape. As I have both items to hand in my tool box this could be a very economic route to take. Could anyone who has installed one confirm my assumption and does the installation perform sarisfactorily. Neil Henderson RV9-A Nr Aylesbury UK ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:40:44 AM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" Fear not, the 200RV is a 72" diameter and will work on any RV. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Neil McLeod" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > --> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod > > Thanks Randy, > > What I was hoping for was somthing with a little less diameter for us side > by side guys. > Looking forward to your flight report! > > Neil > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randy Lervold" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > > > > The 200RV is a new 2-blade model designed specifically for RVs. It uses a > > McCauley 215 hub instead of the 220 hub of the 200C. This hub is smaller > and > > lighter and better suited for the RV. It then has a brand new airfoil that > > Jim Rust came up with after consulting with a couple of industry gurus. > > > > I'll post pics of it probably tomorrow. I flew it today but didn't do any > > testing. > > > > Randy > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Neil McLeod" > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Neil McLeod > > > > > > Randy, > > > > > > How about tossing us a bone here, just what is the 200 RV? > > > > > > Neil McLeod > > > still searching for the perfect aerobatic prop for my 7 > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Randy Lervold" > > > To: ; ; > > > > > > Subject: RV-List: Re: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > > > > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > > > > > > > > Scott, > > > > > > > > I will be testing the new Whirl Wind 200RV. I just received it today, > > > installed it tonight, and weighed it before installation: 41 lbs for the > > > complete assembly including all fasteners compared to 59 for the > Hartzell. > > > I'll balance it and fly it tomorrow, testing could be as soon as next > > > weekend. Information as it develops will be added to the Prop page on my > > web > > > site found at... > > > > www.rv-8.com/Prop.htm > > > > > > > > Randy Lervold > > > > www.rv-8.com > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > > From: Scott Clarkson > > > > To: rv8list@yahoogroups.com > > > > Sent: Friday, October 24, 2003 5:29 PM > > > > Subject: [rv8list] props and spinner spacing > > > > > > > > > > > > I've spent the last month trying to figure out what prop to order > and > > I > > > still haven't made up my mind. I think I ruled out the Hartzell models > > for > > > weight and vibration issues. I spoke with Whirlwind (really nice > people) > > > but can't order their 3 blade because I'm running Lasar ignition. I'm > > > intrigued by the 2 blade RV model coming out but it won't be till the > > > beginning of the year at best. I'm leaning toward the MT 3 blade for > > > smoothness and weight savings. > > > > > > > > In the archives I've gathered that the spinner/cowling spacing > should > > > remain the same (or close) regardless of what prop I decide to go with. > I > > > would like to install my cowling using the prop simulator spacers and > > Van's > > > spinner back plate but the archives warn that Van's recommended 2.250" > PVC > > > prop spacers between the ring gear and spinner back plate are too long. > > > They should be more like 2.125". Could someone verify the spacer length > > so > > > I don't toast my cowling and maybe lend some advice about using this > > method? > > > I just want be accurate and keep the project rolling along. > > > > > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > > Scott Clarkson > > > > Propellerless in NJ > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > ADVERTISEMENT > > > > > > > > > > > > Information exchange for builders of Vans Aircraft RV-8 kits. > > > > > > > > IF YOU WISH TO UNSUBSCRIBE, PLEASE SEND AN EMAIL TO : > > > > > > > > rv8list-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:29:17 AM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: oil cooler flow direction --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" Having the oil flow up might be better to eliminate air pockets and bubbles. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: oil cooler flow direction > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > > Is there a hard and fast rule about which direction the oil should flow in a > vertically oriented oil cooler? According to Van's fwf kit drawings, the > oil should flow UP through the cooler, flowing into the bottom port and out > of the top port. > > Does oil cooling suffer in any way if you reverse the flow, so that the oil > flows into the top port and flows DOWN through the cooler? > > Just wanted to get the skinny on this before I decide what my oil cooler > hose setup will be. In some ways it will be much easier to have oil flowing > DOWN through the cooler. The Jihostroj governor bracket really gets in the > way! > > Thanks in advance, > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D > http://www.rvproject.com > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 10:09:02 AM PST US From: "Doug Weiler" Subject: Re: RV-List: firesleeve prop governor hose --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" > > Do try to keep the firesleeve on the governor hose. > The engine Guru says, it will help insure longest life of the hose. there is > a lot of heat radiated off the exhaust down there. Note that the ends of the > firesleeve are sealed with an rtv type of sealant to keep oil mist from > collecting inside the firesleeve. this is an effort to isolate the hose > inside the stainless shroud from oil, moisture etc. I have done the same > with all the other firesleeved hoses. > Yes, the hole is somewhat large but very doable. My flying RV-4 with my Aerosport engine uses this same configuration and I didn't find it a problem. Yes, I would definitely retain the firesleeve. Doug Weiler RV-4, N722DW ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:22:21 AM PST US From: "RV6 Flyer" Subject: Re: RV-List: firesleeve prop governor hose --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" Dan: The Lycoming HOSE has firesleeve on it. I had my own 3,000 PSI Teflon with stainless braind hose made for my governor. It does NOT have firesleeve on it like the Lycoming part does. Been flying it for over 6 years now. Leave the firesleeve on to keep your engine as close to certification as possible but from experience on one airplane, it is not necessary. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,389 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: firesleeve prop governor hose --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" On my AeroSport IO-360, the prop governor oil hose is firesleeved...that's how it came from Bart. I'm curious if firesleeve is required and/or advised for this hose, i.e. it's considered bad practice NOT to firesleeve it. The reason I'm asking is because removing the firesleeve is going to simplify being able to install the hose through the front baffle. Otherwise, with the firesleeve and its clamp in place, the hole in the front baffle floor needs to be huuuge. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com Enjoy MSN 8 patented spam control and more with MSN 8 Dial-up Internet ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:55:47 AM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: firesleeve prop governor hose --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > The Lycoming HOSE has firesleeve on it. I had my own 3,000 > PSI Teflon with > stainless braind hose made for my governor. It does NOT have > firesleeve on > it like the Lycoming part does. Been flying it for over 6 years now. > > Leave the firesleeve on to keep your engine as close to > certification as > possible but from experience on one airplane, it is not necessary. I would suspect that during normal operations, firesleeve is rarely necessary. They are needed when an exhaust pipe cracks, or a cylinder cracks, and hot gasses are blown onto the hose. Or, heaven forbid, a fire occurs. The idea is to minimize adding fuel (oil) to an already bad situation. A couple minutes could make the difference between a bad day and a really bad day. Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 395 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:41:08 AM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RV-List: Sheet metal brake --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting things like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have been thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do any of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do what I need to do with tools I might already have. Thanks. Terry RV-8A finishing Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:52:09 AM PST US From: "Kosta Lewis" Subject: RE: RV-List: dipstick & tube--help --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" > A neat way to make new marks on a dipstick is to lightly score the stick > with a tubing cutter. Then you file 3 areas sort of flat next to the scribed areas and stamp them 4, 5 and 6 with your number dies. Michael ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:21:11 PM PST US From: Gert Subject: Re: RV-List: Sheet metal brake --> RV-List message posted by: Gert Yeah, when you buy a sheet metal brake to set sheet aluminum, make sure the die nose is radiused sufficiently, don't get a (cheap) brake with dies which have sharp corners (like a pan brake), you'll set yourself up for frustration and failure due to cracking. At least, if you buy a cheap brake like a chicago something or other, which are not bad brakes, grind a radius on the dies or have somebody grind a preset radius for you. Gert Terry Watson wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" > > I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting things > like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have been > thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination > shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do any > of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do > what I need to do with tools I might already have. > > Thanks. > > Terry > RV-8A finishing > Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA > > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 12:51:18 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: Propeller --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 08:32 AM 10/26/2003 -0600, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" > > I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6 >(under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich >metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something? I'm happy with mine. 85" is right for the 180. Wood is cheaper, smoother, lighter while CS is.... K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:43:45 PM PST US From: Tedd McHenry Subject: Re: RV-List: Sheet metal brake --> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry > --> RV-List message posted by: Gert --snip-- > > Yeah, when you buy a sheet metal brake to set sheet aluminum, make sure > the die nose is radiused sufficiently, I recently bought a Magnabrake (electromagnetic brake). It has fairly sharp radius dies, but the manual shows how you can use drill rod to make bends with more generous radii. I don't know if that's feasible on a conventional brake. (I expect the Magnabrake is prohibively expensive for most builders, but I got mine, used, at a very good price.) Tedd McHenry Surrey, BC ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:52:36 PM PST US From: "Bob n' Lu Olds" Subject: RV-List: >Re:Sheet Metal Brake --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" I use a 24" brake from Harbor Freight Tools and am happy with it. I bent a strip of galvanized tin to fit around the nose for a radius to bend aluminum. Soft .040 aluminum would work too. I have bent all I needed to bend for our RV-4 with it. $120 from: http://www.harborfreight.com Bob Olds RV-4 Charleston,Arkansas ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 03:35:55 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" I have the metal spinner and 85" prop. I REALLY like the spinner, mostly because it comes out of the box ready to mount. Everything is straight, true, no cutting or trimming and it tracks perfectly. I now have two of them, one on my 360 powered RV6 and another on my 320 powered -6. Both are beatiful. That being said, I have them because I bought the props used (25hrs) and they came with the spinner. I'm not so sure that I would pop $400+ for one, but that's mainly because I'm cheap, hence the reason for buying two second hand props in the first place. Regarding the 85" pitch, it seems about perfect for my 180/-6. I could use an 87" at cruise, since I can easily spin up to 2800 RPM at almost any altitude, but the additional 2" would cost in static RPM on the ground. As it is, I only get 2150RPM static, so I don't want to lose much more. Gives me cruise speeds of anywhere from 175-200mph depending on who's paying for fuel. Anyway best of luck, the metal spinners are really nice, but quite pricey. Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial Subject: RV-List: Propeller --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6 (under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something? Thanks ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:22:42 PM PST US From: "Marcel" Subject: Re: RV-List: Propeller --> RV-List message posted by: "Marcel" I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have set propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a constant speed Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and it is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around blade I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount. Thanks Marcel in El Paso ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Propeller > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" > > I have the metal spinner and 85" prop. I REALLY like the spinner, mostly > because it comes out of the box ready to mount. Everything is straight, > true, no cutting or trimming and it tracks perfectly. I now have two of > them, one on my 360 powered RV6 and another on my 320 powered -6. Both are > beatiful. > > That being said, I have them because I bought the props used (25hrs) and > they came with the spinner. I'm not so sure that I would pop $400+ for one, > but that's mainly because I'm cheap, hence the reason for buying two second > hand props in the first place. > > Regarding the 85" pitch, it seems about perfect for my 180/-6. I could use > an 87" at cruise, since I can easily spin up to 2800 RPM at almost any > altitude, but the additional 2" would cost in static RPM on the ground. As > it is, I only get 2150RPM static, so I don't want to lose much more. Gives > me cruise speeds of anywhere from 175-200mph depending on who's paying for > fuel. > > Anyway best of luck, the metal spinners are really nice, but quite pricey. > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of J. R. Dial > To: RV-List > Subject: RV-List: Propeller > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" > > > I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6 > (under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich > metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something? > Thanks > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 04:25:18 PM PST US From: a flyer Subject: Re: RV-List: Sheet metal brake --> RV-List message posted by: a flyer I have the combo 30" shear/brake/roller (Chinese made) from Harbor Freight. I had it before I started, and I used it a ton. I think it is well worth the money. It gets borrowed alot, but they always come to your shop, because it weighs 350 lbs. The bending tool does have a radius on the nose. John Huft RV8 Pagosa Springs, CO ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RV-List: Sheet metal brake > --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" > > I need to bend some aluminum sheet to make some brackets for mounting things > like the magnetometer and the DVD drive for my BMA EFIS/one, so I have been > thinking about buying a bending brake or possibly a combination > shear/brake/roll forming tool like the ones that Grizzly tools sell. Do any > of you who have worked with such equipment have any suggestions? Can I do > what I need to do with tools I might already have. > > Thanks. > > Terry > RV-8A finishing > Seattle (Lake Forest Park) WA > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 06:07:32 PM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss HTML_WITH_BGCOLOR --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it, they have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through the firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is space for the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the firewall for receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the negative battery post. Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak On Finish Kit ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 06:18:51 PM PST US From: Gert Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:Sheet Metal Brake --> RV-List message posted by: Gert Yup, got the same one, I gues, and I have done the same, sticking other material under it to get some sort of radius, i found that the dies don't do far enough back for the bigger radii. Bob n' Lu Olds wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob n' Lu Olds" > > I use a 24" brake from Harbor Freight Tools and am happy with it. I bent a strip of galvanized tin to fit around the nose for a radius to bend aluminum. Soft .040 aluminum would work too. > I have bent all I needed to bend for our RV-4 with it. > $120 from: http://www.harborfreight.com > Bob Olds RV-4 > Charleston,Arkansas > > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 07:04:13 PM PST US From: "Eustace Bowhay" Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive. Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft. I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them. With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would be to build one. I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment. It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount. Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some 17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10 at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up. Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around 155 hours of flying a year But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul's if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three passengers. I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the price may go up. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 07:57:47 PM PST US From: "Dennis and Stephanie Smith" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 10 Engines --> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis and Stephanie Smith" Eustace I wish there were some other good engine options for the RV-10. I have started my kit already, but have not purchased an engine yet. I think the turbo diesel would be a great option if it were more available, but more than likely I will go with a IO-540. Wish I didn't have to spend that much money, but right now I think it is the best option. You are probably right about the availability of good cores for rebuilding. Might be hard to come by. Doesn't a new IO-540 run about $37K? Best of luck. Dennis in Oregon -------Original Message------- From: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive. Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft. I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would be to build one. I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment. It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some 17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10 at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up. Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around 155 hours of flying a year But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul s if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three passengers. I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the price may go up. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 08:23:25 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: RV Builder IM Network --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Ok, I'm either going off the deep end, or I'm taking the internet to its next logical step in the context of RV building resources... http://www.rvproject.com/im Let me know what you think! If you're interested in joining and being listed, just IM me. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com (for the archive: instant message messaging yahoo aim aol msn icq trillian) ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 09:33:26 PM PST US From: "Darwin N. Barrie" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 10 Engines --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" The guys at www.crossflow.com are developing a FWF Subaru for the RV 10. Turbocharged normalized to 12000 ft. I've got a 200 hp version on order for my -7. They are great to work with and I believe will be a force in the RV market. I plan to have mine flying in April 04. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Eustace Bowhay" Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines > --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" > > A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive. > > Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft. > > I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them. > > With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would be to build one. > > I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment. It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount. Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some 17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10 at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up. > > Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around 155 hours of flying a year > > But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul's if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three passengers. > > I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the price may go up. > > Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 10:20:29 PM PST US From: "GMC" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss --> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" Subject: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it, they have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through the firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is space for the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the firewall for receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the negative battery post. Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak On Finish Kit Hi Larry My experience is with my 6A so your -7 may be slightly different, however one non-electrical consideration. If you have a oil filter you may not want to have wires in the area where you will be removing the old oil filter. It's hard to get the old filter out around wires and cables without spilling oil and making a mess. Suggest you put the ground block inside firewall about six inches right (looking forward) of the firewall cutout and at or above oil filter height. Run a stud through the brass ground block with inside of stud connected to battery (-) and engine ground strap on forward side of stud. My 0-320 had a nice spot for a ground strap near base of oil dipstick tube. George McNutt Langley BC (Five filter changes!) ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 10:45:15 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Propeller --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 10/26/2003 4:26:53 PM Pacific Standard Time, mbourgon@elp.rr.com writes: I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have set propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a constant speed Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and it is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around blade I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount. 1mm (.040"). -GV (RV-6A N1GV 671hrs)