Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:17 AM - Re: Propeller (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
2. 06:17 AM - LSE first run (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
3. 06:27 AM - Re: Van's Windscreen Antenna (Garrett Bray)
4. 06:53 AM - Re: Propeller (John Furey)
5. 07:35 AM - Re: RV 10 Engines (Dr. Leathers)
6. 07:37 AM - Re: RV7 Ground Buss ()
7. 07:58 AM - Re: Propeller ()
8. 08:01 AM - Re: RV 10 Engines (Noel & Yoshie Simmons)
9. 08:06 AM - Re: Propeller (DAVID REEL)
10. 08:45 AM - Lightspeed/GRT 4000 Tach (Ross Mickey)
11. 09:21 AM - Re: RV7 Ground Buss (Elsa & Henry)
12. 09:44 AM - Re: Van's Windscreen Antenna (Bob)
13. 10:00 AM - Re: RV Builder IM Network (Radomir Zaric)
14. 11:00 AM - Re: RV 10 Engines (Tedd McHenry)
15. 11:05 AM - Re: RV Builder IM Network (Will & Lynda Allen)
16. 01:20 PM - Fw: Propeller (Elsa & Henry)
17. 02:57 PM - Re: Lightspeed/GRT 4000 Tach (Ross Mickey)
18. 04:21 PM - Re: Propeller (David.vonLinsowe)
19. 05:22 PM - Re: RV7 Ground Buss (LarryRobertHelming)
20. 05:30 PM - Re: RV7 Ground Buss (LarryRobertHelming)
21. 11:24 PM - Re: RV Builder IM Network (Dave Smith)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
"J. R. Dial" wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
> I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my RV6
> (under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
> metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
> Thanks
I don't know about the spinner, I looks real good and should save a lot of
time. When ordering the prop, you might check with Stan Shannon at Rondure
Company.
I ordered mine a few weeks ago and he saved me a few bucks, maybe he can save
a little on the Spinner too.
Sensenich will ship it to you...
Just an idea......... Phil
Do not archive
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
First run of my light speed ignition yesterday (actually 2nd, but I'll get
into that later). I've got a Light Speed on the right side and a new slick
mag on the left. This was just a ground run to be sure all was working. It
seems to be, but with some interesting observations.
The efficiency of the LSE was the first as evidenced by (mag) drop tests.
Shutting down the mag at 1700 rpm (running only on the LSE) yields almost
zero rpm drop. I can barely see the tach hand move. Although there is
about a 20 degree egt rise. Used to be about 60 degrees when shutting down
one mag. On the other hand, shutting down the LSE (running only on the mag)
yields almost 100 rpm drop which is more than I'm used to. I'm wondering if
this is showing a problem with the mag or timing (the timing is very close);
or more evidence of the superior efficiency of the LSE. Has anyone else
with an LSE seen this?
The 2nd new observation regards egt differences. Used to be that each
clylinder's egt would fluctuate a bit. They were fairly close, but which
was the hottest would vary during any particular condition. Now (after just
15 or so minutes of ground run) It seems that #3 and 4 are pegged together
moving as one, as are #1 and 2. And with 3&4 hotter by 30-40 degrees. I
note that the LSE uses 2 coils. One fires 1&2 and the other firing 3&4.
I'm gussing this is showing that one coil (probably 1&2) is firing stronger
than the other, but I'll watch this for a while and see how it plays out in
normal operation. Any comments? Anybody else running an LSE seeing this?
About the first operational attempt: The first time I started up the engine
with the LSE, cylinders 3 and 4 would not fire with the mag off. A call to
Clause suggested checking the gap between the flywheel mounted magnets and
the sensors on the LSE ring which bolts into the front of the engine. LSE's
instructions say this gap should be between .020 and .070. My gaps were
.072 on the magnet that picks up TDC and .092 on the magnet that picks up
the advance position (I think it's 42 degrees BTDC) The difference on my
two measurements is because when LSE installed the magnets on the flywheel,
they were a bit sloppy in how deeply they were drilled; one being about .020
below the rim of the flywheel and the other about .035" too deep. I don't
really understand why being so slightly off would cause the unit to not fire
at all, and beyond that, why only the coil for #3 & 4 would be affected.
Perhaps there is some weakness in that coil side which may explain the
slightly hotter EGTs on that side now that it is running.
Anyway, Clause said to get those figures in specs, which I did by shimming
in the LSE sensor ring about .032" with a couple of thin washers at each of
the attach points. That did the trick, and with the exception of the slight
anomolies mentioned above, the engine feels and runs smoothly. I'll know
more after a couple test flights
...and one more question for those running an LSE. Are you starting with
the LSE on or off. It makes sense to me to start up with the LSE on, but I
seem to remember people talking about starting the engine with it off.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Windscreen Antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Garrett Bray" <braygarrett@hotmail.com>
I used it on my -6 and found it to work poorly. Very directional, couldn't
reach tower sometimes in the pattern. Installed a conventional attenna aft
of the rear window on the top of fuselage and problem went away.
Gary Bray
Hermon. Maine
Rv-6
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil Henderson" <neil.mo51@btopenworld.com>
>
>Listers
>
>I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's antenna.
>At $7 I assume it can only
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I have used there spinner and except for being heavy it is a real nice unit
that I would recommend.
John Furey
2nd RV6A O-320 Sensenich
1st RV6A O-360 Sterba then Sensenich
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Dennis,
Have you cheked out Bombardier's new V200 and V300T? See it at
www.vaircraftengines.com also See Jan Eggenfellner's H6 Subaru at
www.eggenfellneraircraft.com
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dennis and Stephanie Smith" <famflier@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis and Stephanie Smith"
<famflier@centurytel.net>
>
> Eustace
> I wish there were some other good engine options for the RV-10. I have
> started my kit already, but have not purchased an engine yet.
> I think the turbo diesel would be a great option if it were more
available,
> but more than likely I will go with a IO-540. Wish I didn't have to spend
> that much money, but right now I think it is the best option.
> You are probably right about the availability of good cores for
rebuilding.
> Might be hard to come by. Doesn't a new IO-540 run about $37K?
> Best of luck.
> Dennis in Oregon
>
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Sunday, October 26, 2003 7:41:45 PM
> To: rv list
> Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using
> engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
>
> Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the
> Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft.
>
> I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge
effort
> into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them
>
> With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this
> remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an
> engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline
> pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would
> be to build one.
>
> I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found
> nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One
in
> particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but
> when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a
disappointment.
> It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the
seventy
> thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount
> Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport
> I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy
some
> 17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV
10
> at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up.
>
> Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this
> would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for
around
> 155 hours of flying a year
>
> But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders
> have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if
> we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a
> quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between
overhaul
> s if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes
even
> more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three
> passengers.
>
> I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been
> sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the
> price may go up.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Ground Buss |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
My experience is on my -6, don't know how different the -7 is in this area.
Mounted in the recess, the ground bolt/ground tabs would do quite a number
on your knuckles if (...when) your hands slip removing the oil filter, and
changing the filter can spill quite a bit of oil everywhere. On the
inside, the ground bolt/tabs/maze of ground wires would be visible.
I placed mine above the recess near the center (on the top slanted portion
of the FW), and will put it there on the next one. Out of the way on oil
changes, easy to run wires to FWF, and not visible from the interior.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
> <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it,
> they have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through
> the firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is
> space for the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the
> firewall for receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the
> negative battery post.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> On Finish Kit
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
>> I am ordering a new Sensenich 85" pitch propeller for my
>> RV6
>> (under 1,000 lbs.) tomorrow but would like feedback on the Sensenich
>> metal spinner. Seems like the way to go unless I am missing something?
>> Thanks
If seriously shooting for under 1,000lbs with a metal prop (no interior or
radios <g>?), the Sensenich spinner does weigh more than the fiberglass
one. Fitting Van's spinner took me about 4 hours, I figured at $100/hr
the aluminum one sure looks nice but opted to save weight & money.
(RV-6 flying lightweight interior no gyros no paint O-320 metal prop
1015lbs).
do not archive
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Noel & Yoshie Simmons" <noel@blueskyaviation.net>
Gentleman & the beautiful Stephanie,
I have installed many engines, I am by no means an expert, just done it a
lot. I have installed 5 or so NSI Subaru engines in Kitfoxes and now am
finishing up the IO-360-A1B6 and the BMA EFIS in the -8A I am now working
on.
I think the modified auto engines are a great option IF repeat IF someone
puts together a great PLUG & PLAY FWF. Some one will come along with this,
and offer a modified auto engine FWF package. Most people don't realize the
amount of engineering that must go into a great auto engine and the fact
that it must be a FWF package. A great example of is VT300. That is FWF
perfect engine for the -10.
Since the VT300 is not available yet I am going with the IO-540 for the -10,
See ya at OSH
Noel Simmons
-6A / -8A/ -10(tail kit here!)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis and
Stephanie Smith
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis and Stephanie Smith"
<famflier@centurytel.net>
Eustace
I wish there were some other good engine options for the RV-10. I have
started my kit already, but have not purchased an engine yet.
I think the turbo diesel would be a great option if it were more available,
but more than likely I will go with a IO-540. Wish I didn't have to spend
that much money, but right now I think it is the best option.
You are probably right about the availability of good cores for rebuilding.
Might be hard to come by. Doesn't a new IO-540 run about $37K?
Best of luck.
Dennis in Oregon
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: RV 10 Engines
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
A number of people watching the RV List have asked why we are still using
engines that are 50 plus years old technology and also expensive.
Van covered this subject at length in a recent RV-ator and feels that the
Lycoming's are still the best choice for his aircraft.
I am aware of a number of companies out there that are putting a huge effort
into trying to come up with an alternate engine and my hat is off to them
With the RV 10 coming on line and having had the opportunity to fly this
remarkable aircraft at Van' home comeing I can see a huge demand for an
engine in the 260 HP category. The RV 10 has really got my adrenaline
pumping so I have been doing some research as to what the final cost would
be to build one.
I looked at some of the alternate engines under development and found
nothing that comes close to the I0540 Lycoming all things considered. One in
particular caught my eye, burns Jet A and uses the latest technology but
when I got into the nuts and bolts of it turned out to be a disappointment.
It is 30 HP shy, is much heavier and the price quoted me was in the seventy
thousand dollar range, this did however include the prop and engine mount
Using a price of say sixty-five thousand to compare it to an Aero Sport
I0540 at $ 27700.00 the difference would be $ 37300.00. This would buy some
17 to 18000 gals of av-gas, if one was to fly 100 hrs.a year with the RV 10
at say 12 gals an hour it would take 14-15 years to use it up.
Another thing one could do would be invest the $ 37300.00 at say 5%, this
would give a return of $1865.00 which would give you enough fuel for around
155 hours of flying a year
But apart from all this prattle the bottom line is safety. We as builders
have a responsibility to our passengers and family to fly accident free if
we possibly can. To do this we have to go with an engine either new or a
quality overhaul that we know will go it's recommended time between overhaul
s if flown and maintained properly without a failure. This now becomes even
more important with the RV 10 when we will now be carrying up to three
passengers.
I am wondering if with the large number of RV 10's that have already been
sold good I0540 cores for overhaul may become harder to come by and the
price may go up.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Regarding spinner-to-prop clearance, I'm using the 1/16 inch recommended by Vans.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 10
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| Subject: | Lightspeed/GRT 4000 Tach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Chris Heitman asked this question a few weeks ago and got no replies. Since
I have the same problem, I will ask again.
I have a GRT 4000 engine monitor and Lightspeed Plasma II electronic
ignition. I am getting a zero reading on the GRT tach. Pulses is set to 2
as specifies by Lightspeed.
Has anyone gotten this combo to work?
Ross Mickey
Awaiting inspection
RV6A 9PT
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Ground Buss |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I have a #4 gauge wire going from the neg.terminal of the battery straight
down to the corner of the firewall about 2" inches up from the apex of the
corner where the right (starboard) vertical stiffener angle meets the
right-to-left diagonal stiffener. The AN-516 bolt that grounds it to the FW
goes right through the terminal of the #4 wire that grounds the engine
(0-320) at one of the sump bolts. I also have #4 wire jumpers that go across
the 2 lower engine mounts, thus 3 engine grounds.
I made a copper plate with several turret terminals secured with nuts and
soldered to it, for my main ground block. It is mounted on the left side of
the radio/transponder trays which provide a solid ground to the instrument
panel.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Windscreen Antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared2@brier.net>
BNC bulkhead connector is what I used. Installation is pretty straight
forward, no big problems as I recall. However, I had mediocre
communication results with this antenna. I have since put in a real
external antenna.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
>I'm thinking of using the Van's style windscreen mounted comm's
>antenna. At $7 I assume it can only be a BNC bulkhead connector and a
>length of self adhisive copper tape. As I have both items to hand in my
>tool box this could be a very economic route to take. Could anyone who
>has installed one confirm my assumption and does the installation perform
>sarisfactorily.
>
>Neil Henderson RV9-A Nr Aylesbury UK
Message 13
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| Subject: | RV Builder IM Network |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" <radomirz@vitez.net>
That sounds like a good idea.. might be good to add "Location" as well..
for easier local networking :)
Radomir
RV-7A Emp.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: RV Builder IM Network
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Ok, I'm either going off the deep end, or I'm taking the internet to its
next logical step in the context of RV building resources...
http://www.rvproject.com/im
Let me know what you think! If you're interested in joining and being
listed, just IM me.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
(for the archive: instant message messaging yahoo aim aol msn icq
trillian)
==
==
==
==
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> I think the modified auto engines are a great option IF repeat IF someone
> puts together a great PLUG & PLAY FWF.
I accept that as a business prerequisite. I don't think anybody's going to get
rich SELLING an auto engine conversion if the FWF package isn't excellent.
But the attraction of an auto conversion, for some builders, is the challenge
of doing it themselves. I've always found it odd that so many people who build
their own airplanes from the firewall back have trouble understanding why other
builders are interested in doing the same thing ahead of the firewall. I
suppose engineering your own powerplant is more analagous to designing your own
airplane, which interests a few of us, but not most.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 15
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<RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | RV Builder IM Network |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will & Lynda Allen" <linenwool@comcast.net>
This sounds cool, especially since my wife is setting up a wireless network
in our house and I can have my laptop right in the garage with me while
working and still be online. I see a lot of RV-7 people on your list so far
but no RV-8's? Is there a trend here, that all the tech heads are RV-7
drivers and the RV-8 types don't see much point in dese 'ere computers :).
Must be why my wife is setting this stuff up for me <g>
Will Allen
RV8 Wings - (it's because I'm in the garage all the time and don't have
time, otherwise I could set up my own computer stuff....if I wanted
to......yeah, that's it!)
North Bend, Wa.
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: RV Builder IM Network
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Ok, I'm either going off the deep end, or I'm taking the internet to its
next logical step in the context of RV building resources...
http://www.rvproject.com/im
Let me know what you think! If you're interested in joining and being
listed, just IM me.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
(for the archive: instant message messaging yahoo aim aol msn icq trillian)
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
> If seriously shooting for under 1,000lbs with a metal prop (no interior or
> radios <g>?), the Sensenich spinner does weigh more than the fiberglass
> one. Fitting Van's spinner took me about 4 hours, I figured at $100/hr
> the aluminum one sure looks nice but opted to save weight & money.
>
> (RV-6 flying lightweight interior no gyros no paint O-320 metal prop
> 1015lbs).
I' surprised at that 1015 lbs! My -6A empty weighed 1032 lbs with 0-320,
Sensenich prop, with Vac system, DG & AH, Comm. & Xponder, fully primed in &
out and one good coat of outside paint. no interior other than D.J.'s seats!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed/GRT 4000 Tach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
For the record, I will answer my own question. I have a Plasma II
lightspeed. It produces .3 millisecond pulses. The GRT 4000 can not read
such a quick signal. The Plasma III has longer pulses and therefore works
with the GRT 4000. I do not know about the pulse length for the Plasma II
Plus.
Ross Mickey
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed/GRT 4000 Tach
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
>
> Chris Heitman asked this question a few weeks ago and got no replies.
Since
> I have the same problem, I will ask again.
>
> I have a GRT 4000 engine monitor and Lightspeed Plasma II electronic
> ignition. I am getting a zero reading on the GRT tach. Pulses is set to
2
> as specifies by Lightspeed.
>
> Has anyone gotten this combo to work?
>
> Ross Mickey
> Awaiting inspection
> RV6A 9PT
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
Marcel,
Don't forget to also cycle the blades through their pitch range and check the clearance.
Without oil pressure the blades should be at the low/fine pitch limit.
With someone on each blade the blades can be twisted to hi/coarse pitch.
I've seen where the blade will hit the fairing behind the blade and depending
on the spacers used, the rear bulkhead too.
Dave
RV-6
From: Vanremog@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Propeller
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/26/2003 4:26:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mbourgon@elp.rr.com writes:
I have a simple question I think of all propellers installers. We have set
propeller and I am setting the spinner. The unit we are using is a constant
speed
Hartzell propeller and I was wondering how much gap should be left around
the properler so it work properly. Right now we have the spinner on and it
is good and tight with the blades. I know we need to have room around blade
I just need some one to tell me how much room is the right amount.
1mm (.040").
-GV (RV-6A N1GV 671hrs)
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Ground Buss |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Good points made and I appreciate them. On your 6, was the battery located
just below the ground buss? If so, did the buss location cause problem
with replacing battery ever so often? In case you don't already know, the
battery location on the 7 is along the right edge of the recess area with
the negative terminal nearer the centerline.
Thanks for your reply.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss
> --> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> I'd like to hear from anyone that feels, after having already done it,
they
> have selected the right place to put the ground buss bolt through the
> firewall. I am looking at the indented/recessed area that is space for
> the oil filter. The area looks clean on the pilot side of the firewall
for
> receiving a bunch of ground wires. And it is close to the negative
battery
> post.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> On Finish Kit
>
>
> Hi Larry
>
> My experience is with my 6A so your -7 may be slightly different, however
> one non-electrical consideration. If you have a oil filter you may not
want
> to have wires in the area where you will be removing the old oil filter.
> It's hard to get the old filter out around wires and cables without
spilling
> oil and making a mess.
>
> Suggest you put the ground block inside firewall about six inches right
> (looking forward) of the firewall cutout and at or above oil filter
height.
> Run a stud through the brass ground block with inside of stud connected to
> battery (-) and engine ground strap on forward side of stud.
>
> My 0-320 had a nice spot for a ground strap near base of oil dipstick
tube.
>
> George McNutt
> Langley BC
> (Five filter changes!)
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Ground Buss |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Thank you for your idea that is proven. I will do something very similar.
Makes good sense now that I understand it. I appreciate your help.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV7 Ground Buss
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry"
<elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>
> I have a #4 gauge wire going from the neg.terminal of the battery straight
> down to the corner of the firewall about 2" inches up from the apex of the
> corner where the right (starboard) vertical stiffener angle meets the
> right-to-left diagonal stiffener. The AN-516 bolt that grounds it to the
FW
> goes right through the terminal of the #4 wire that grounds the engine
> (0-320) at one of the sump bolts. I also have #4 wire jumpers that go
across
> the 2 lower engine mounts, thus 3 engine grounds.
>
> I made a copper plate with several turret terminals secured with nuts and
> soldered to it, for my main ground block. It is mounted on the left side
of
> the radio/transponder trays which provide a solid ground to the instrument
> panel.
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RV Builder IM Network |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave_smith@icehouse.net>
I guess the question I'd have to ask, is whether we as builders would
rather use one IM network over another. The hobby that used to take up
all my time was online gaming. Gamers use ICQ pretty much exclusively,
but not that many other folks do. So which IM network would be the
best? Trillian is nice, but has drawbacks in that it can't handle some
of the nice features of the individual networks. Sooo, I'd only want to
run one system. Which one?
Dave
http://www.rv10project.net
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