Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:31 AM - Re: RV Builder IM Network (Doug Gray)
2. 05:06 AM - Re: Dynon EMI update (Doug Rozendaal)
3. 06:01 AM - room for massive manhood (Frazier, Vincent A)
4. 06:12 AM - tailwheel chains (Frazier, Vincent A)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: EGT/CHT probes ()
6. 07:29 AM - Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets (Dr. Leathers)
7. 07:38 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Bill Dube)
8. 08:31 AM - Re: -4 Canopy (Pete Waters)
9. 08:39 AM - Re: fastening sliderwindshield (Mark Phillips)
10. 09:42 AM - Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets (Doug Rozendaal)
11. 10:00 AM - Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets (BELTEDAIR@aol.com)
12. 10:10 AM - paint and engine exhaust (Steven Eberhart)
13. 11:08 AM - Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
14. 11:43 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Dwight Frye)
15. 11:55 AM - Re: Hartzell Spinner (JusCash@aol.com)
16. 12:00 PM - Re: paint and engine exhaust (JusCash@aol.com)
17. 12:04 PM - Re: Tailwheel clips (Charlie & Tupper England)
18. 12:27 PM - Re: tailwheel chains (Mark Phillips)
19. 12:57 PM - Flamemaster tank sealant (Wilder, Scott)
20. 01:00 PM - Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets (Brian Denk)
21. 01:00 PM - Tip up v slider - again!!! (Rob W M Shipley)
22. 01:01 PM - Re: paint and engine exhaust (Charles Rowbotham)
23. 01:10 PM - Re: Dynon EMI update (RV8ter@aol.com)
24. 01:15 PM - Re: paint and engine exhaust (Alex Peterson)
25. 01:38 PM - First Flight (no, not the Wrights...) (Scott Brumbelow)
26. 01:52 PM - Email list vs. Web forum ()
27. 02:04 PM - Re: tailwheel chains (Robert E. Lynch)
28. 02:18 PM - Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets (Bill VonDane)
29. 03:09 PM - Re: paint and engine exhaust (Sam Buchanan)
30. 03:16 PM - Canopy Manufacturers visit. (Dana Overall)
31. 03:18 PM - Orndoff's video RV6 Finishing (PGLong@aol.com)
32. 03:25 PM - Re: room for massive manhood (Dana Overall)
33. 03:46 PM - Re: Flamemaster tank sealant (Glenn Brasch)
34. 04:19 PM - Re: Hottest CHT (Charlie & Tupper England)
35. 04:23 PM - Re: Tailwheel clips (Doug Rozendaal)
36. 04:59 PM - VS rib to spar gap (Paul Eastham)
37. 05:11 PM - Re: Dynon EMI update (Sam Buchanan)
38. 05:17 PM - Re: paint and engine exhaust (Ed Holyoke)
39. 05:28 PM - Re: Dynon EMI update (Dana Overall)
40. 05:32 PM - Special order canopies (Dana Overall)
41. 05:35 PM - Re: Tip up v slider - again!!! (Jim Sears)
42. 06:08 PM - Re: Email list vs. Web forum (Chris W)
43. 07:20 PM - Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets (Dana Overall)
44. 07:20 PM - Re: paint and engine exhaust (Sam Buchanan)
45. 07:59 PM - Re: 180hp Sensenich Prop for Sale (jtb1)
46. 08:09 PM - Re: VS rib to spar gap (David Carter)
47. 09:04 PM - Re: Dynon EMI update (Stein Bruch)
48. 09:46 PM - Re: paint and engine exhaust (Jim Oke)
49. 09:57 PM - Re: 1/4" - 28 Threaded Shank Drill Bits / Scotch-Brite Wheels - 40% SAVINGS (Garey Wittich)
50. 10:46 PM - Re: Dynon EMI update (Ed Holyoke)
51. 10:51 PM - Re: paint and engine exhaust (Ed Holyoke)
52. 11:46 PM - Re: Dynon EMI update (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV Builder IM Network |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
S-100.... give me a break....that's a factory built lancair...
I designed and then wire wrapped mine, Z80, 4k & TTY monitor prom copied
from a university cromemco machine and hand patched. Later upgraded to
64k and 8" disk drive (second hand) with patched CP/M - again all wire
wrapped. - homebuilt from start to finish -
Doug Gray
DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> Ok, my pocket protector is twitching and I can't stand it anymore. My
> first computer was an Altair 8800A S-100 bus system w/2K RAM, CPU was a
> 2 MHz 8080, no mass storage, program entry was through the front panel
> switches. After some upgrades (8K RAM, I/O ports, manual paper tape
> reader) I also had a copy of the first Microsoft BASIC interpreter on
> paper tape (seriously!).
>
> Bob
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon EMI update |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have the Dynon and external mag sensor. About 50 hours on the unit and
probably 30 on the mag sensor. I have a KX-155 Nav/Com. I can hear a small
difference in the noise when the Dynon is on vs off, but it is not a problem
at all my mag cable and power cable are shielded.
My horizon works good, but not as good as Mike reports, mine will "quiver"
from time to time, especially in turbulence.
I too am very happy! This is a great instrument and a great value.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 3
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| Subject: | room for massive manhood |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP Vince, Us RV-4 pilots know that you Rocket pilots (and that includes
Gummi
> Bear) are really just trying to compensate for smaller appendages....
> ;-}
>
> "DO NOT ARCHIVE" Chuck SNIP
Chuck,
I built and flew an RV-4. It is/was a fine, fine airplane. It just didn't have
enough COCKpit room or horsepower to haul around my.....
Never mind. You get the picture!
And since GummiBear is a former fighter jock, he probably needs even more horsepower.
No flames. No malice. Yes, Chuck and I will still speak to each other. Appologies
to the list police. And if this isn't funny or is too crude... waaah.
Vince,
swinging a big Rocket
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | tailwheel chains |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Awww geez, somebody was whining about getting back to building topics... and I
thought this list was just for BS'ing.
Anyway, regarding the chain length on your tailwheel, loose is better than tight.
Don't fret too much here, just take out one chain length from being tight
and call it good.
If your chains hit the bottom of your rudder, you can add the eyebolts to the rudder
horns and tailwheel bellcrank if you like. And make sure to put your springs
on the tailwheel end, even though they look nicer on the top end. And if
the chains still scratch the paint off of your rudder, cover the chains with
shrink tubing. You can get shrink tubing at your electrical supply store and
it comes in many colors including clear.
IMHO, throw those funny teardrop shaped wire links that Van supplied in the trash.
I've seen too many of them come undone.
Have fun... at least you know that you put the little wheel on the correct end.
Vince
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: EGT/CHT probes |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alan McKeen" <amckeen@twcny.rr.com>
> Based on my plane and my observation
> of it, #3 is most often the highest CHT and EGT.
Concur, my O-320 RV-6 and just about everybody else I know runs the same.
In fact #4 is usually the coolest on mine by about 30F. Still can't
figure that one out since the oil cooler is mounted behind it "stealing"
all that cooling air, maybe #3 needs a big gaping hole behind it too <g>.
IMO this is not a place to skimp. It costs $275 to add four cylinder CHT
capability to Van's gauge, definitely worth it to make sure your $20K
investment up front is happy.
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Just wait until the girls see my RV4 with the M14P! Rocket Shmocket Ha!
Doc
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
>
> - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
> >
> aircraft with bigger engines and more horsepower are
> > "Chick Magnets." I think I have some proof.
>
> Now I *Really* can't wait to get my 3 rotor 270 HP RV-8 flying : )
>
> Tracy Crook
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>
>Where I'm trying to puzzle out the details is with respect to things like
>the new integrated LED position lights which Bill VonDane and Bill Dube are
>making available. While I am unsure as of yet whether I'm going to build
>my RV for IFR or not, I don't want to make choices which categorically rule
>IFR operation out. I _do_ know I like the perceived higher reliability
>that the LED solution seems to bring to the table.
First, let me say that if the LED lights don't meet FAA specs, or
don't fulfill your needs, send them back to me and I will gladly refund
your money. I have had zero complaints or problems to this point. Everyone
seems to be very happy with them.
I think that your quote from Mike answers your own question. He
correctly stated:
>For amateur built aircraft, equipment installed on
>the aircraft at certification is considered FAA approved.
If you assemble the kit according to the instruction, the LED
lights more than meet the FAA specs, so there should be no problems. Also,
with the kit, I supply a table showing the required candlepower at each
angle and step-by-step instructions on how to measure the light output and
compare it with the requirement. Thus, if you follow the instructions, you
have everything you need to pass muster with the FAA.
I also should note that all you have to do is look at the lights
and there will be no question in your mind that they are bright enough. The
second time I brought my lights to a meeting, the tech councilor at my
local EAA chapter (301) said, "Please don't point those directly at me. I
don't want to see spots all night like last time." :-)
Looking forward,
Bill Dube'
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Pete Waters <pedroagua@yahoo.com>
Joe,
I have the exact same problem in my RV-4.
I am planning on making a "box" structure out of sheet metal to reinforce the
canopy structure there. I really can't describe it, but I'l send you pictures
when I'm done.
Pedro
RV4Joe <rv4joe@sofnet.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV4Joe"
I just purchased a -4 with 600 hours on it. The canopy has what appears to be a
retaining piston similar to what you find on a hatchback car. It is needs to
be redesigned because when opened, it is putting too much stress on the canopy
frame at the attach point of the 'piston'. I am looking for ways to redesign
this. At Osh 2002, I seem to recall a couple of ingenious solutions, but do not
have any photos and at that time did not have a plane so did not take careful
notes.
Thanks,
Joe
---------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: fastening sliderwindshield |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
Hi Dave-
I'm right at the point of doing that on my tip-up and have the same gap in the
center. I've laid a length of 3/8" vinyl tubing snugly between the plexi and
skin on the inside along the area of the gap, about 20" long. This will provide
a seal between the plexi & skin for a fillet of micro/flox slurry injected
into the gap from the front. I would have done this last night if the tube of
black coloring agent (Evercoat 508) had shown up!
I don't know if anyone else has done this, but it seems like it should work. Does
this make sense or anyone see any pitfalls here?
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Dave Ford wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
>
> I'm getting ready to secure in place the windshield for my slider 6. Question
is about attaching and securing the front edge. I have opted to make a removable
windshield fairing which is completed and fits like a glove to the windshield
except in the front where the plex does not touch the top forward skin,
it is about 1/2 inch above the skin so there is some floating of the plex to reach
the fairing. I would like to make a clean, secure, good looking attachment
of the plex to the fairing and top skin. Some have mentioned clips touching
the plex and riveted to the skin, others riveting the fairing and using epoxy
to attach plex to the fairing. Still another would be using Lexel between plex
and fairing, and pop riveting fairing to skin. My concern is the force and
pressure of the air against the plex since I have a 1/2 inch gap where the plex
does not touch the top skin. Any suggestions or opinions as to the best way
to attach forward plex to top skin?
>
> Dave Ford
> RV6 finishing
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
This has gone on long enough..... and I hate to shine reality on all the
delusions you all have, but the truth is..... It doesn't matter if you have
a V1650, 1- R-2800 or 2-R2600s, if you want a chick magnet, go to the Lake.
Back in my single days I attracted more chick attention with a 5hp Johnson
on my 23' Columbia sailboat (and yes I mean the outboard) in one weekend,
than all the flying I have ever done combined.
Sorry guys, Sometimes the truth hurts....
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
RV-4 and 20 years with the same old Columbia 23' Ahhh, the memories........
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets |
--> RV-List message posted by: BELTEDAIR@aol.com
Yeah, Yeah, the older you get the better you were!!!
do not archive...
Message 12
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| Subject: | paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
I am painting a friends RV-8 and have a question about painting the
bottom of the plane directly in the path of the engine exhaust stacks.
THe plane has about 100 hours on it and you can tell the aluminum has
gotten hot because of the bluish tint of the aluminum.
Should this area be left un-painted, painted with high temp paint or
just go ahead and paint it with the same PPG Concept that the rest of
the plane is painted with?
My thoughts are to leave the area in the reverse air scoop that exhausts
the cowling air, and where the exhaust pipes exit, aluminum but paint
everything else.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A working on second wing panel and painting an RV-8
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Okay, reality check here, guys. Face it, the only *real* chick magnet
is a HUGE bank account and a credit card with no limit...
With these, you can get any chick you want. Case-in-point, Catherine
Zeta-Jones... Smirk
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Matt
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>This has gone on long enough..... and I hate to shine reality on all the
>delusions you all have, but the truth is..... It doesn't matter if you have
>a V1650, 1- R-2800 or 2-R2600s, if you want a chick magnet, go to the Lake.
>Back in my single days I attracted more chick attention with a 5hp Johnson
>on my 23' Columbia sailboat (and yes I mean the outboard) in one weekend,
>than all the flying I have ever done combined.
>
>Sorry guys, Sometimes the truth hurts....
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>RV-4 and 20 years with the same old Columbia 23' Ahhh, the memories........
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
Bill,
Ya can't ask for any better assurance (given that the FAA _sounds_ like it
can be fickle, depending upon your DAR) than this. I really like the look
of the integrated LED position lights and the perception that they will be
much more reliable in the long run than bulbs. Consider a set sold. :) I
will be placing my order with CreativAir this week. Thanks!
-- Dwight
DO NOT ARCHIVE
On Thu Oct 30 10:37:38 2003, Bill Dube wrote :
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>[ ... snip ... ]
> First, let me say that if the LED lights don't meet FAA specs, or
>don't fulfill your needs, send them back to me and I will gladly refund
>your money. I have had zero complaints or problems to this point. Everyone
>seems to be very happy with them.
>[ ... snip ... ]
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Hartzell Spinner |
menavrat@rockwellcollins.com
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
I received a message asking for clarification on how I mounted an aluminum
spinner on an existing backplate.
This is my reply in case anyone else had a question.
Cash Copeland
RV6 Hayward, Ca
Hi Mark,
I used #8 allen head set screws that have a point. You start them backwards,
point facing out, from the outside in till they are flush. Then screw them
out from the inside to make a mark on the inside of the spinner. I used the
old fiberglass spinner as template to cut the aluminum spinner. When I
fabricated the fiberglass spinner I used poster board to make templates of the
prop
contour. I found that the metal spinner cutout was a little different than the
glass spinner so I trimmed it to fit. I did not use screws in the front
bulkhead. Spacers are used to move the front bulkhead into position for a snug
fit
with the spinner. Flap anti-chafe tape is used between the front bulkhead
and the spinner to prevent fretting.
Hope this helps
Cash Copeland
In a message dated 10/30/2003 6:52:09 AM Pacific Standard Time,
menavrat@rockwellcollins.com writes:
Hi Cash,
I have one of the metal Orndorff spinners that I have not mounted yet and
have a couple questions. One is, what kind of #8 screws are you using to
secure the metal spinner? Panhead, flathead, flathead w/ Tinnerman
washers, etc? Second, do you have a Hartzell prop and if so do you have a
template for the cutouts, or did you just do it by trial and error? I know
Sensenich provides a template to cutout spinners for their props but I have
not seen the same for the Hartzell...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: JusCash@aol.com
My airplane is painted with white PPG Concept. I haven't noticed any heat
discoloration nor exhaust residue in 75hrs. I have the Vetterman crossover
exhaust system.
Cash Copeland
Hayward, Ca
In a message dated 10/30/2003 10:14:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
newtech@newtech.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
I am painting a friends RV-8 and have a question about painting the
bottom of the plane directly in the path of the engine exhaust stacks.
THe plane has about 100 hours on it and you can tell the aluminum has
gotten hot because of the bluish tint of the aluminum.
Should this area be left un-painted, painted with high temp paint or
just go ahead and paint it with the same PPG Concept that the rest of
the plane is painted with?
My thoughts are to leave the area in the reverse air scoop that exhausts
the cowling air, and where the exhaust pipes exit, aluminum but paint
everything else.
Steve Eberhart
RV-7A working on second wing panel and painting an RV-8
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel clips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Doug Gray wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
>I have seen one RV in this country without any interconnect from the
>rudder to tail wheel.
>
>For that matter the DHC Chipmunk I did my aerobatic training in had no
>linkage by design. The only times I missed it was when I had a brake
>failure while taxying downhill around a bend. Taxying in a very stiff
>crosswind was a non event, dragging a brake and adding power easily
>compensated for the lack of rudder authority.
>
>I'll certainly give it a try without, when the day finally comes.
>
>Doug Gray
>RV-6 fuse in Oz
>
snipped
I flew a Globe Swift without chains for almost 200 hrs. I've also flown
2 different RV-4's (with old-style tailwheels) for a total of around 8
years without chains. The only negative issue is losing a brake in a
stiff crosswind. In that case you are likely to find the weeds anyway.
I'm not telling anyone to do it, but I do know that they handle fine
without them.
Charlie
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: tailwheel chains |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
(lengthy explanation of supreme hassle, bad parts etc. snipped)
After all that?! Baloney! We don't need no stinkin' chains!! 8-)
But seriously now- a friend of mine has one of the tailwheel spring things from
Team Rocket and is very happy with it....
Mark -6"A" do not archive
>
> Have fun... at least you know that you put the little wheel on the correct end.
>
> Vince
Message 19
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| Subject: | Flamemaster tank sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wilder, Scott" <SWilder@LOWEENTERPRISES.com>
Anybody recently used the new flamemaster tank sealant? It is now 4
days later and the sealant is still soft. What is the hardness of this
stuff when fully cured & how soon do you suppose I can continue working?
Do not Archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
So then Doug, as I see it, we have only one choice:
Adapt a Johnson outboard motor to an RV or Rocket!! Now, the pull cord
starter might be hard to manage from the cockpit, but we could adapt
something. A set of floats, a cooler of beer, towels set out on the wings
and voila...instant aviation fun at the lake!!
As seen on T shirts: "Chicks dig a big Johnson"....except that WE would be
swinging a big prop too!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
350 hrs and chicks DO dig my paint scheme...especially the one that really
counts...my WIFE!
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Tip up v slider - again!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Geoff wrote : -
Subject: RV-List: Tip-Up vs. Slider
--> RV-List message posted by: Gkb5577@aol.com
Could some kind folk out there give me their comments re. going with
a tip-up vs. slider canopy? About to buy Fusel.
Boy this one ranks right up there with nosewheel v realman butt dragger and your
favourite flavour of primer. I presume you have checked the archives? There's
rich material and lot's of impartial unbiased opinions in there (as if!).
My .02 - fly each kind. If the view is more important than what some misguided
folks consider 'cool looks' on the ground you'll make the intelligent choice
and build a tipper. This also happens to be the choice of most of the guys at
Van's according to a recent RVator, (you do read this too right?). It won't
hurt at all that with the tipper all of your wiring behind the panel and future
mods as well will be far and away easier to do.
Good luck
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Steve,
We painted our 8A prior to engine start. We have not had any problems with
the paint.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A (200 + hours)
>From: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: paint and engine exhaust
>Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 12:08:52 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
>
>I am painting a friends RV-8 and have a question about painting the
>bottom of the plane directly in the path of the engine exhaust stacks.
>THe plane has about 100 hours on it and you can tell the aluminum has
>gotten hot because of the bluish tint of the aluminum.
>
>Should this area be left un-painted, painted with high temp paint or
>just go ahead and paint it with the same PPG Concept that the rest of
>the plane is painted with?
>
>My thoughts are to leave the area in the reverse air scoop that exhausts
>the cowling air, and where the exhaust pipes exit, aluminum but paint
>everything else.
>
>Steve Eberhart
>RV-7A working on second wing panel and painting an RV-8
>
>
Add MSN 8 Internet Software to your current Internet access and enjoy
patented spam control and more. Get two months FREE!
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon EMI update |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
Question. Are you also only really *using* the attitude indicator and not
really using the rest of the info as Mike seemed to be implying he was? Mike
said he still used the other steam gauges for everything else, whatever that
means.
When I see the unit, it looks like it would be hard to use the tape & digital
readouts due to their size and the display realestate being relatively small.
The impression I have is it looks like a neat option for IFR equipped planes
that don't want to fool with a vacuum attitude indicator and want backups for
the other steam gauges but not really right to be the primary display for VFR
guys who want to do away with round gauges all together.
thx,
lucky
In a message dated 10/30/2003 8:10:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
dougr@petroblend.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have the Dynon and external mag sensor. About 50 hours on the unit and
probably 30 on the mag sensor. I have a KX-155 Nav/Com. I can hear a small
difference in the noise when the Dynon is on vs off, but it is not a problem
at all my mag cable and power cable are shielded.
My horizon works good, but not as good as Mike reports, mine will "quiver"
from time to time, especially in turbulence.
I too am very happy! This is a great instrument and a great value.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 24
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| Subject: | paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> I am painting a friends RV-8 and have a question about painting the
> bottom of the plane directly in the path of the engine
> exhaust stacks.
> THe plane has about 100 hours on it and you can tell the aluminum has
> gotten hot because of the bluish tint of the aluminum.
The discoloration is probably deposits, or simply aluminum oxide
resulting from the deposits, rather than being from heat. Most solvents
don't remove the exhaust deposits, but Simple Green does (yeah, yeah, I
know, the airframe will corrode using that stuff and fall out of the sky
- use it just this once to see if the junk will clean off). If it
doesn't clean it, it is probably oxide. Painting the area should be a
non-issue with respect to heat.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 396 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 25
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| Subject: | First Flight (no, not the Wrights...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Brumbelow <csbrumbelow@fedex.com>
Well, the FAA came out Tuesday Oct 28 and told me that I had an airplane instead
of a kit. Yesterday we proved them correct...
After a 7 year gestation and 10 month labor and delivery, RV-8A
"N-8-8-9-Bravo-Sierra" (S/N 80077) took to the skies on a crystal clear Fall
afternoon in Memphis, TN. But more about that after the important stuff (the
thank-yous and acknowledgments!)
First off, I thank God for a safe day. All I prayed for (okay, perhaps "begged"
and "pleaded" would be a little more accurate) was a safe, non-event first flight,
and that is what we had.
Second goes to Lisa and the kids. When we first got into this project, it was with
the anticipation that Lisa would be going back to a paid job (notice that I
managed NOT to imply that staying home with the kids was not work!). Anyway, as
most of you know, plans changed and now she still is at home, homeschooling three
kids. For those of you that are at all familiar with aviation, you know it is not
cheap. Thus, it is needless to say that this aircraft makes things pretty tight
financially around the house. And yet not once - and I mean not once - has the
burden ever come up in any, ah... financial "discussions" we have had along the
way. That level of support is huge. Secondarily, the support, help, and
encouragement from her and the kids has been invaluable. Finally, add to that the
patience over the last two months. While over the length of this project I think
I
have done a good job not letting it interfere with the home/kid/spouse life, the
same cannot be said for the last two months. Pretty much all I have done is go
to
work and then go to the airport. Fortunately the kids have bikes and toys out
there, so they were able to spend a lot of time there as well, but obviously it
is
a strain nonetheless.
Third goes to Jerry Carter. Jerry is also an RV-8A builder and owner at Charles
Baker Airport who has spent the last six months encouraging me on how "easy" this
thing is to fly. Jerry's aircraft is essentially configured exactly as mine. We
had talked about me getting some time in his, but then he actually came out at
the
end of my inspection and essentially said, when you are done here, come over and
let's fly. So I went over, he put me in the pilot's seat and let me fly his
aircraft for an hour doing take offs, landings, etc. - the things I would need
to
be able to fly my own. The confidence boost from that alone was huge. Then he
topped it off by offering to do the first flight on mine (greatly simplifying
things for me logistically as a friend from Atlanta was originally going to do
the
flight). It is kind of funny - my stomach had been in knots since the inspection,
and Jerry met me at the airport yesterday completely unconcerned.
Fourth goes to Steve Denton, A&P extrordinaire. Steve is the one who first came
out to inspect some of the critical systems (i.e., fuel!!) and then help me with
first engine start. Steve then came out to help with weighing etc. of the aircraft
- not to mention being just around the corner at work for endless questions!
Fifth goes to everyone else who has contributed along the way. So many have
contributed ideas, advice, opinion, wiring diagrams - you wouldn't believe how
helpful and needed this was. A project of this magnitude is something you simply
cannot accomplish alone. The counsel of those who have helped along the way have
without a doubt helped make Bravo Sierra a safer aircraft.
THE FLIGHTS
As I mentioned, Jerry took the first flight. It was a very weird feeling watching
my aircraft taxi away, then take off, with someone else in it! The whole idea here
was to get it up in the air, monitor critical instruments, aircraft
controllability and feel, engine performance, and then do some basic stall work
to
establish what the pattern (i.e., landing) speeds needed to be. Jerry did that
and
came back with the report that - as he expected - my aircraft flew just like his.
We pulled the top cowl off to check for leaks etc. and discovered a slight oil
leak out of the oil cooler, but that was it.
So - armed with the confidence from flying Jerry's aircraft and knowing that mine
flew just like his, it was my turn. My only intent was to get up in the air, do
a
short flight, and then land - and that is what I did. It was kind of strange. I
thought there would be all of this emotion and excitement, but there was not. I
was too busy monitoring instruments, listening and feeling the aircraft out. I
went out and did some basic turns, climbs, and descents, and then came back to
the
airport. The aircraft felt good and even natural - just as Jerry's had. Once I
finally got in the aircraft, the pent-up nervousness of the previous 24 hours
finally evaporated - even for that all important first landing.
Only now is it beginning to sink in that I have in fact completed this project
(okay, except for paint and a few other items!), that it flies well, and that I
can fly it well. Transitioning to my old Cessna 140 was more difficult and
nerve-wracking than this. The only squawk was the previously mentioned oil cooler
leak - and Vans Aircraft is already sending out a replacement.
For those interested, total construction time was 1553 hours over a 7 year period.
However, most of that time was in the last couple years (621 hours in 2003 and
340
in 2002).
Finally, for those that are wondering if I will ever build anything like this
again - the answer is "NO!!!" I am a pilot first and a builder second, and now
it
is time to do the pilot thing...
csb
Message 26
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| Subject: | Email list vs. Web forum |
--> RV-List message posted by: <rvl@davepar.com>
As long as were discussing IM (ok, the discussion got way off IM), I was wondering why such an active discussion is happening over an email list. How about a web-based discussion forum? A very active one is the TiVo forum: <A href="http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/">http://www.tivocommunity.com/tivo-vb/. Web forums make it much easier to follow a thread of conversation, much easier to search, and much easier for one to ignore conversations. Plus our email addresses wouldn't be posted on the web for every spambot in the universe to pick up.Often they even have an area for off-topic discussions (Date yourself by your first computer).
Just a thought.
Dave
RV-7A Empennage, Seattle
<A href="http://www.dualrudder.com/rv7">http://www.dualrudder.com/rv7
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: tailwheel chains |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Lynch" <rv6lynch@earthlink.net>
Hello List.
I have seen all the talk about tail wheel springs, nobody has come up with
right answer.
Here is the right way to do it. Set a bench under the tail of the A/C have
a friend push the rudder petals left and right, the rudder must be able to
hit the rudder stops on the aft side of the fuselage.If there is slack in
the chains when the rudder is against the stops, tighten them up, if you
can't hit the stops the chain is to tight. You want them as tight as
possible but you must be able to hit the stops. This affect your ability to
land in cross winds. Simple as that.
Bob
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I agree... the ONLY thing chicks dig about you having an airplane is the
fact that they THINK you have money if you have an airplane, when the truth
is we all know that when you have an airplane you have NO money!
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
Okay, reality check here, guys. Face it, the only *real* chick magnet
is a HUGE bank account and a credit card with no limit...
With these, you can get any chick you want. Case-in-point, Catherine
Zeta-Jones... Smirk
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Matt
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>This has gone on long enough..... and I hate to shine reality on all the
>delusions you all have, but the truth is..... It doesn't matter if you
have
>a V1650, 1- R-2800 or 2-R2600s, if you want a chick magnet, go to the Lake.
>Back in my single days I attracted more chick attention with a 5hp Johnson
>on my 23' Columbia sailboat (and yes I mean the outboard) in one weekend,
>than all the flying I have ever done combined.
>
>Sorry guys, Sometimes the truth hurts....
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>RV-4 and 20 years with the same old Columbia 23' Ahhh, the
memories........
>--------------
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Alex Peterson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>>I am painting a friends RV-8 and have a question about painting the
>>bottom of the plane directly in the path of the engine
>>exhaust stacks.
>>THe plane has about 100 hours on it and you can tell the aluminum has
>>gotten hot because of the bluish tint of the aluminum.
>
>
> The discoloration is probably deposits, or simply aluminum oxide
> resulting from the deposits, rather than being from heat. Most solvents
> don't remove the exhaust deposits, but Simple Green does (yeah, yeah, I
> know, the airframe will corrode using that stuff and fall out of the sky
> - use it just this once to see if the junk will clean off). If it
> doesn't clean it, it is probably oxide. Painting the area should be a
> non-issue with respect to heat.
When I first started flying my RV-6 with the Vetterman exhaust, there
was very little exhaust residue on the belly of the plane. But, I
couldn't leave well enough alone so I *had* to trim the ends of the
stacks so they wouldn't protrude into the slipstream and slow me down
with all that drag.
So, my plane is now a whole lot faster but the price is the blue/gray
exhaust residue on the black belly of my plane. The PPG Concept paint
hasn't been damaged, but Simple Green or some water-based degreaser
concentrate I bought at a Harbor Freight store is the only thing I have
found that will cut the residue with a reasonable amount of effort. The
degreaser (full strength) on a blue paper towel works better than the
Simple Green and it is supposedly non-corrosive, but the bottom of the
plane will probably fall off one of these days because I have used
Simple Green a few times.......and also because I didn't prime every
piece.......oh, and I also failed to use a deburring tool on every rivet
hole......Good Grief, this plane may be too dangerous to fly anymore.....
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, leaving a trail of falling airplane parts across
north Alabama)
Message 30
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| Subject: | Canopy Manufacturers visit. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I just got back from picking up my custom color 7 canopy from the supplier
of all of Van's canopies. The company is called Airplane Plastics,
937-669-2677. They are located on the north side of Dayton, OH. The first
thing I saw when I walked into the shop was a beautiful F1 canopy which
happened to be the same color as my 7 canopy. It started a little darker
but the F1 canopy is stretched more that the 6/7 canopy so it lightens up to
the 2404 that I am using............I started drooling on the spot. Hanging
above the oven was what turned out to the the radar imaging canopy of the
joint strike fighter.......pretty neat. Molds and frames were all over the
place with a stack of 6/7 canopies tucked away in one corner with two in
different states of completion. They had the initial 10 mold with an
acrylic sheet in it. Greg and Becky both said it needs some tweaking before
they finalize the jig/mold assembly. It was neat to see the various ways
canopies are made from blowing......really sucking to pre molding and the
wet mold method they use on 6/7 canopies due to the flat surface areas on
these. He told me how many canopies they send to Van's and I ain't
telling.........you'll have to go there and visit.
With winter coming up I thought I would relay a word of advice they
animatedly mentioned. I know Dan has a picture of doing it on his website
but Becky said under no circumstances should one use a space heater to heat
the canopy prior to working on it. They told me acrylic has memory and can
flat spot quite easily......Dan, they said you got lucky:-). Greg told me
the acrylic they use has such a memory that if a canopy blown, such as the
F1 canopy, does not come out to specs they can reheat the canopy which
flattens it out and reblow the sheet and get results as if it had not been
blown the first time. The recommended procedure is leave the canopy in the
house overnight, heat your shop up in the morning and bring the 70 degree
canopy into the shop and start working. I'm just repeating what I was told
and didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night so I can't even act like
an expert.
As for cleaning, they say don't use 409, acetone, window sprays,
concentrated alcohols or anything with ammonia. They say to remove "sticky
stuff" with mineral spirits, kerosene, white gas, naptha or isopropy
alcohol. After using any of the above, wash solvents off with Dawn
dishwashing liquid and water followed by a clear water rinse.
I had a great time talking with them and seeing their process. They are
only 5 minutes off i75 on the north side of Dayton. If you are in the area
I would encourage you to give them a call and stop by and see their
operation. Great people also.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Orndoff's video RV6 Finishing |
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
Looking for the "Orndorff's RV6 Finishing Video." Any one want to loan theirs
or offer for sale? Already have the RV6 Quick build series 1.2 & 3. Wish this
finishing video was for the RV4, but alas, time marches on.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N924PL (reserved)
RV4 Finishing
Bay City, Michigan
Do Not Archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: room for massive manhood |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Chuck,
I built and flew an RV-4. It is/was a fine, fine airplane. It just didn't
have
enough COCKpit room or horsepower to haul around my.....
Vince,
swinging a big Rocket
do not archive
I've seen Vince's...............................airplane (I was going to say
rocket but thought better of it:-), and..................I'll leave it that,
I had all kind so thing I was going to say about width, girth, length but
better not;-)
Man that F1 canopy was way too neat looking, I think if I was building one
I'd have to get two.......one to put over the fireplace, against my better
half's wishes!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Emron Black "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying instruments, Hangar flying my Dynon
do not archive
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Flamemaster tank sealant |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
I used it on my rudder and it cured fine. I think I left it alone over a
weekend.
Glenn in Arizona -9A Wings.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wilder, Scott" <SWilder@LOWEENTERPRISES.com>
Subject: RV-List: Flamemaster tank sealant
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wilder, Scott"
<SWilder@LOWEENTERPRISES.com>
>
>
> Anybody recently used the new flamemaster tank sealant? It is now 4
> days later and the sealant is still soft. What is the hardness of this
> stuff when fully cured & how soon do you suppose I can continue working?
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Gabe A Ferrer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
>
>On my O360 the #3 cylinder is the hottest. Cylinder EGT varies depending on how
much I lean the engine. Hottest cylinder EGT varies from flight to flight and
during any given flight. I haven't figured out why.
>
>Gabe A Ferrer
>RV6 N2GX 83 hours
>South Florida
>Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
>Cell: 561 758 8894
>Night Phone: 561 622 0960
>Fax: 561 622 0960
>
Hi Gabe (you were missed at Tracy's last weekend),
If your engine is carburated the hot cylinder can change with throttle
setting due to fuel distribution variations caused by the throttle
butterfly.
Charlie
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel clips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I flew a hi-horse hot rod for about 200 hours with no connection, it has a
bunch of "caster" I think is the correct term, (the pivot was tipped forward
and it had a centering tendency, pulling back on the stick increased the
centering force and bent the spring which increased the "caster" which
increased the centering tendency even more. To turn, you just pushed
forward on the stick. It was a very stable system on a very hot little
airplane.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie & Tupper England" <cengland@netdoor.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tailwheel clips
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
<cengland@netdoor.com>
>
> Doug Gray wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
> >
> >I have seen one RV in this country without any interconnect from the
> >rudder to tail wheel.
> >
> >For that matter the DHC Chipmunk I did my aerobatic training in had no
> >linkage by design. The only times I missed it was when I had a brake
> >failure while taxying downhill around a bend. Taxying in a very stiff
> >crosswind was a non event, dragging a brake and adding power easily
> >compensated for the lack of rudder authority.
> >
> >I'll certainly give it a try without, when the day finally comes.
> >
> >Doug Gray
> >RV-6 fuse in Oz
> >
> snipped
>
> I flew a Globe Swift without chains for almost 200 hrs. I've also flown
> 2 different RV-4's (with old-style tailwheels) for a total of around 8
> years without chains. The only negative issue is losing a brake in a
> stiff crosswind. In that case you are likely to find the weeds anyway.
>
> I'm not telling anyone to do it, but I do know that they handle fine
> without them.
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
Hi rvators,
I have been trying to rivet my VS ribs to the forward spar for a while now.
(RV-9, but same VS in 7 and 8) After some learning curve on the rivet gun,
my only remaining problem is that a gap forms between the rib and spar as I
drive the rivet. This happens whether I squeeze or buck, and I am putting the
shop head on the thin side where applicable. And I am keeping things as
clamped together as I think is possible, though it is difficult with the spar
flange in the way.
The gap isn't big but it is definitely there. I don't have a feeler gauge,
but I'd estimate it at .02". If I drill these out again I am going to have to
go to the next size rivet :(
I'm already using swelled rivets.
I just missed Van's call-in hours...anyone else out there have this problem?
Sick of drilling out good (and bad) rivets,
Paul
__________________________________
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon EMI update |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
RV8ter@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: RV8ter@aol.com
>
> When I see the unit, it looks like it would be hard to use the tape & digital
> readouts due to their size and the display realestate being relatively small.
> The impression I have is it looks like a neat option for IFR equipped planes
> that don't want to fool with a vacuum attitude indicator and want backups for
> the other steam gauges but not really right to be the primary display for VFR
> guys who want to do away with round gauges all together.
>
After flying the Dynon for several hours, I think it would work just
fine in a VFR aircraft as the primary display. Matter of fact, that is
what it is in my RV-6 that is still only flown in VMC. A photo of the
latest version of the panel in N399SB is near the top of this page:
http://thervjournal.com
Yes, you will need some acclimation if going from needles to a digital
display. For nearly 500 hrs the only altimeter and airspeed indicators
in my plane was the RMI uEncoder; it took a few hours to get accustomed
to flying via digits instead of needles, but once my brain was
recalibrated, I became very comfortable with the preciseness of the
digital readout.
In my opinion, the airspeed readout and tape on the Dynon is very
acceptable; it is the altimeter tape and readout that is more difficult
to read at a glance since the "hundreds" digits are small in order to
fit them into the available space. For VFR this is fine, but I would not
want to have to squint at the tape in IMC. I have disabled the digital
altimeter readout in the Dynon since I still have the uEncoder. The tape
is still used since it is sorta neat to be able to set "bugs" on the tape.
I think some of the slight "jitter" of the horizon that has been
mentioned is due to the digital nature of the display. When the horizon
tilts a couple of pixels or so, it is much more noticeable than the
smooth and barely detectable motion of a mechanical horizon. It could be
that a little more tweaking of the display will smooth out the movement
so it will more closely mimic the movement of an old-fashioned gyro. I
am confident the Dynon gang will aggressively pursue refinement of their
baby.
I continue to be impressed with what Dynon has been able to accomplish
with relatively inexpensive hardware.
Sam Buchanan
Message 38
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| Subject: | paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Sam,
How much faster did it get when you trimmed the exhaust?
Ed Holyoke
>When I first started flying my RV-6 with the Vetterman exhaust, there
was very little exhaust residue on the belly of the plane. But, I
couldn't leave well enough alone so I *had* to trim the ends of the
stacks so they wouldn't protrude into the slipstream and slow me down
with all that drag.
>So, my plane is now a whole lot faster but the price is the blue/gray
exhaust residue on the black belly of my plane. The PPG Concept paint
hasn't been damaged, but Simple Green or some water-based degreaser
concentrate I bought at a Harbor Freight store is the only thing I have
found that will cut the residue with a reasonable amount of effort. The
degreaser (full strength) on a blue paper towel works better than the
Simple Green and it is supposedly non-corrosive, but the bottom of the
plane will probably fall off one of these days because I have used
Simple Green a few times.......and also because I didn't prime every
piece.......oh, and I also failed to use a deburring tool on every rivet
hole......Good Grief, this plane may be too dangerous to fly
anymore.....
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, leaving a trail of falling airplane parts across
north Alabama)
==
==
==
==
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon EMI update |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: RV8ter@aol.com
> The impression I have is it looks like a neat option for IFR equipped
>planes
>that don't want to fool with a vacuum attitude indicator and want backups
>for
>the other steam gauges but not really right to be the primary display for
>VFR
>guys who want to do away with round gauges all together.
>
>thx,
>lucky
>
See, I would think the Dynon would be a great primary instrument for VFR.
Personnal kind of thing.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Special order canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
One more thing, if you are considering a special color for your 6/7 canopy,
you do not have to go through Van's in deciding on the color. Call Becky at
Airplane Plastics, she will send you samples and work with you on the color
you desire. They will ship the canopy to Van's to be included in your
finish kit. Remember one thing, your final canopy will be somewhat lighter
in color than the sample as it lightens during the stretching process.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Cheer a special someone with a fun Halloween eCard from American Greetings!
Go to http://www.msn.americangreetings.com/index_msn.pd?source=msne134
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tip up v slider - again!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
>> Could some kind folk out there give me their comments re. going with
>> a tip-up vs. slider canopy? About to buy Fusel.
>
> My .02 - fly each kind. If the view is more important than what some
misguided > folks consider 'cool looks' on the ground you'll make the
intelligent choice and > build a tipper. This also happens to be the
choice of most of the guys at Van's
> according to a recent RVator, (you do read this too right?). It won't
hurt at all
> that with the tipper all of your wiring behind the panel and future mods
as well will > be far and away easier to do.
When I built my RV-6A, I went through the pros and cons of both versions.
The one big question I had for the slider was whether one could open it in
flight as I could with my Cheetah. Of course, I could not. That told me
the framework wasn't as strong as I felt it should be. After having done
both kinds of canopy versions, I've still got to favor the tip up over the
slider. Granted, the slider is so much more macho looking; but, the tip up
is a much nicer installation to do. I really do like the ability to work on
my goodies behind the panel without much trouble. I quickly found out that
working behind the panel on a slider is a real problem, just as it was on my
Cheetah. When I build my next one, if it isn't the -10, I'll do the tip up
again.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Email list vs. Web forum |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <chrisw3@cox.net>
rvl@davepar.com wrote:
> As long as were discussing IM (ok, the discussion got way off IM), I was wondering
why such an active discussion is happening over an email list. How about
a web-based discussion forum?
I really don't get the web based discussion forums. My only guess as to why they
exist at all is because those who start them don't have the server resources
to do a mailing list or news group. IMO mailing lists and news groups are much
easier to use than the web based discussion forums.
do not archive
--
Chris Woodhouse
3147 SW 127th St.
Oklahoma City, OK 73170
405-691-5206
chrisw@programmer.net
N35 20.492'
W97 34.342'
"They that can give up essential liberty
to obtain a little temporary safety
deserve neither liberty nor safety."
-- Benjamin Franklin, 1759 Historical Review of Pennsylvania
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: HUMOR - are bigger engine's Chick Magnets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>
>Okay, reality check here, guys. Face it, the only *real* chick magnet
>is a HUGE bank account and a credit card with no limit...
>
>With these, you can get any chick you want. Case-in-point, Catherine
>Zeta-Jones... Smirk
OK, I will add to this with something that happenned about 14-15 years ago.
I was working at the office when I received a call from the manager of the
FBO. It was a request that I come to the airport for lunch as there was
something there I needed to see. Nothing more stated on the phone. When I
got there, the manager handed me a "gold card" and ask what I thought the
limit would be and whether he should call for an authorization code. The
name on the card was Sam Walton!! He had flown the 421? in himself due to
the opening of the a new Walmart in town. I figure the limit was in excess
of of the GNP of most civilized countries on the face of the earth. Most
money I have every held in my hands................... I immediately saw
three blonds, three brunnettes and this gorgeous redhead:-) Now, I'm just
tickled with my new dark canopy.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
online from McAfee.
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Ed Holyoke wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Sam,
>
> How much faster did it get when you trimmed the exhaust?
>
> Ed Holyoke
Not sure of the numbers Ed, but its gotta be a lot faster. I mean, those
turned down pipes were hangin' right out in the wind, and as fast as a
RV flies, we all know how just a little streamlining goes a long way. It
just looks a LOT faster when you sight down the fuse and can't see those
pipes because they are tucked up in the canopy air exit. Also, the way
the plane barks through the abbreviated stacks means it has to be
producing several more horsepower.
It sorta reminds me of the speed I picked up when I got rid of those
draggy ol' tailwheel springs and chains and installed one of Terry
Jantzi's slick tailwheel linkages. I could almost hear the wind hissing
by the tail once those clanky spring and chains were gone.
The guys at the hangar are convinced that my plane is one of the fastest
RV-6's around because of the speed mods, and they know I would never
tell them anything that isn't true.
Sam Buchanan
===================
>
>
>>When I first started flying my RV-6 with the Vetterman exhaust, there
>
> was very little exhaust residue on the belly of the plane. But, I
> couldn't leave well enough alone so I *had* to trim the ends of the
> stacks so they wouldn't protrude into the slipstream and slow me down
> with all that drag.
>
>
>>So, my plane is now a whole lot faster but the price is the blue/gray
>
> exhaust residue on the black belly of my plane. The PPG Concept paint
> hasn't been damaged, but Simple Green or some water-based degreaser
> concentrate I bought at a Harbor Freight store is the only thing I have
> found that will cut the residue with a reasonable amount of effort. The
> degreaser (full strength) on a blue paper towel works better than the
> Simple Green and it is supposedly non-corrosive, but the bottom of the
> plane will probably fall off one of these days because I have used
> Simple Green a few times.......and also because I didn't prime every
> piece.......oh, and I also failed to use a deburring tool on every rivet
>
> hole......Good Grief, this plane may be too dangerous to fly
> anymore.....
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, leaving a trail of falling airplane parts across
> north Alabama)
>
>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Re: 180hp Sensenich Prop for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jtb1" <jtb1@prodigy.net>
Mark,
If the offer you have on your prop for $1,500 should fall through for
any reason I would be interested in it for the same price.
Jack Bombard
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: RV-List: 180hp Sensenich Prop for Sale
| --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
|
|
| FOR SALE:
|
| Almost-new Sensenich prop, 180 hp O-360 model # 72FM8S9-1-87, S/N 33984.
The prop only has a couple flights on it since brand new before it was
removed for replacement with a constant-speed prop. There are NO nicks in
the leading edge and the paint looks pretty good. With 87" of pitch, this
prop is a good cruise prop...there's a lot in the archives about various
pitch options, no point in rehashing it all here, but if you have questions
feel free to contact me off list...it can of course be repitched if desired.
|
| I am asking $1650 for it, this includes the spacer, bolts, prop log and
shipping/insurance anywhere in the contiguous 48 U.S. states. I could also
ship it to Sensenich if a buyer wanted it inspected and/or repitched, and
Sensenich could then forward it to the buyer.
|
| I'll also throw in the front spinner bulkhead (brand new and undrilled)
for the Sensenich prop installation if the buyer needs it. This is P/N
S-605 SEN and is a $52 part.
|
| I'd be happy to entertain any reasonable offers if I don't get any takers
at $1650.
|
| Please contact me OFF LIST if interested.
|
| --Mark Navratil
| Cedar Rapids, Iowa
| day (319) 295-9390
| eve (319) 393-4234
| e-mail: czechsix@juno.com
|
| Do Not Archive
|
|
|
|
|
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
You mentioned "keeping things as clamped together as I think is possible" -
If you aren't using "vise-grip clamps" you aren't.
It was exactly that kind of problem, and ribs being "twisted" by the drill
after it went through skin into rib - or spar - that made me get really
serious about clamping - had only been using cleco clamps and other wimpy
things. Even C-clamps aren't as good as a vise-grip clamp (the smaller
size - I bought 2 of them and that was enough for everything else).
David Carter
RV-6
Nederland, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <abstraction@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: VS rib to spar gap
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi rvators,
> I have been trying to rivet my VS ribs to the forward spar for a while
now.
> (RV-9, but same VS in 7 and 8) After some learning curve on the rivet
gun,
> my only remaining problem is that a gap forms between the rib and spar as
I
> drive the rivet. This happens whether I squeeze or buck, and I am putting
the
> shop head on the thin side where applicable. And I am keeping things as
> clamped together as I think is possible, though it is difficult with the
spar
> flange in the way.
> The gap isn't big but it is definitely there. I don't have a feeler
gauge,
> but I'd estimate it at .02". If I drill these out again I am going to
have to
>
> go to the next size rivet :(
> I'm already using swelled rivets.
> I just missed Van's call-in hours...anyone else out there have this
problem?
>
> Sick of drilling out good (and bad) rivets,
> Paul
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Dynon EMI update |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
My thoughts exactly! My new -6 which is "almost" ready to fly, has exactly
TWO instruments in the panel.....1 Dynon, and 1 Garmin 196...THAT's IT!
Before people start the flaming....I intend this -6 as a VFR fun plane only!
I already have an IFR -6, and the purpose of the VFR plane is simple, light,
cheap and fun!!! Contrary to popular belief, your plane won't crash of the
airspeed indicator quits working....a little "stick/rudder & seat of the
pants" flying goes a long way.
I've found that people who see my new panel react either one of two ways:
"Wow, that's clean, neat, simple and light....perfect for VFR fun
flying".... or...
"I'd never fly a plane without a 'steam' ASI, what if your new widget
fails????"
I say....who cares if it does fail??!! I don't intend to fly this plane in
the soup...that's what I've got the IFR bird for.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon EMI update
See, I would think the Dynon would be a great primary instrument for VFR.
Personnal kind of thing.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Sam,
Could you please try and quantify which was the larger effect. IOW, did the
extra bark from the exhaust stacks drown out the extra wind "hiss" from the
tail or vice versa. Inquiring minds would like to know.
Jim Oke
RV-6A
Wpg, MB
(Thinking of taking a Dremel to my Vettermans any day now...)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: paint and engine exhaust
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> Ed Holyoke wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> >
> > Sam,
> >
> > How much faster did it get when you trimmed the exhaust?
> >
> > Ed Holyoke
>
> Not sure of the numbers Ed, but its gotta be a lot faster. I mean, those
> turned down pipes were hangin' right out in the wind, and as fast as a
> RV flies, we all know how just a little streamlining goes a long way. It
> just looks a LOT faster when you sight down the fuse and can't see those
> pipes because they are tucked up in the canopy air exit. Also, the way
> the plane barks through the abbreviated stacks means it has to be
> producing several more horsepower.
>
> It sorta reminds me of the speed I picked up when I got rid of those
> draggy ol' tailwheel springs and chains and installed one of Terry
> Jantzi's slick tailwheel linkages. I could almost hear the wind hissing
> by the tail once those clanky spring and chains were gone.
>
> The guys at the hangar are convinced that my plane is one of the fastest
> RV-6's around because of the speed mods, and they know I would never
> tell them anything that isn't true.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
> ===================
> >
> >
> >>When I first started flying my RV-6 with the Vetterman exhaust, there
> >
> > was very little exhaust residue on the belly of the plane. But, I
> > couldn't leave well enough alone so I *had* to trim the ends of the
> > stacks so they wouldn't protrude into the slipstream and slow me down
> > with all that drag.
> >
> >
> >>So, my plane is now a whole lot faster but the price is the blue/gray
> >
> > exhaust residue on the black belly of my plane. The PPG Concept paint
> > hasn't been damaged, but Simple Green or some water-based degreaser
> > concentrate I bought at a Harbor Freight store is the only thing I have
> > found that will cut the residue with a reasonable amount of effort. The
> > degreaser (full strength) on a blue paper towel works better than the
> > Simple Green and it is supposedly non-corrosive, but the bottom of the
> > plane will probably fall off one of these days because I have used
> > Simple Green a few times.......and also because I didn't prime every
> > piece.......oh, and I also failed to use a deburring tool on every rivet
> >
> > hole......Good Grief, this plane may be too dangerous to fly
> > anymore.....
> >
> > Sam Buchanan (RV-6, leaving a trail of falling airplane parts across
> > north Alabama)
> >
> >
(Do Not Archive)
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: 1/4" - 28 Threaded Shank Drill Bits / Scotch-Brite Wheels |
- 40% SAVINGS
--> RV-List message posted by: Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com>
--- Garey Wittich <gareywittich2000@yahoo.com> wrote:
> FOR YOUR BUILDING NEEDS:
>
> 1) 1/4"-28 THREADED SHANK DRILL BITS, Size #40
> NEW
> * Used with Angle Air Drills and Flexible
> Drill Attachments, etc.
> * NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
> * 2 1/8" Long, 135 Degree Split Point, High
> Speed Steel
> * YOUR PRICE $1.50 each (Avery Part #4140,
> $2.70 each)
>
> 2) NAS907 Type B Drill Bits, Size #30 NEW
> * High Speed, Nitride Oxide coated for
> enhanced abrasion resistance
> * Recommended for Stainless Steel, hard
> Steel, Titanium, etc.
> * NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
> * 135 degree Split Point
> * 2 3/4" long
> * YOUR PRICE $1.00 each
>
> 3) DEBURRING WHEEL (aka Scotch Brite Wheel)
> * NEW from Northrup / Grumman Aircraft Co.
> * Used to Radius, Deburr & Smooth edges on
> Aluminum parts using a Die Grinder, etc.
> * 7A Medium Grit, Aluminum Oxide
> (The "ONE" recommended by Van's Aircraft)
> * 1" dia x 1" high with 3/16" hole for
> Mandrel (Mandrel not supplied)
> * YOUR PRICE $3.25 each (Avery Part #3700,
> $5.00 each)
>
> Minimum Order $10.00 POSTAGE INCLUDED
>
> Indicate interest OFF LINE by E-Mail. Supplies
> Limited
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
__________________________________
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Dynon EMI update |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
How about oil pressure and temp and tach? I seem to remember that fuel
gauges are required too.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EMI update
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
My thoughts exactly! My new -6 which is "almost" ready to fly, has
exactly
TWO instruments in the panel.....1 Dynon, and 1 Garmin 196...THAT's IT!
Before people start the flaming....I intend this -6 as a VFR fun plane
only!
I already have an IFR -6, and the purpose of the VFR plane is simple,
light,
cheap and fun!!! Contrary to popular belief, your plane won't crash of
the
airspeed indicator quits working....a little "stick/rudder & seat of the
pants" flying goes a long way.
I've found that people who see my new panel react either one of two
ways:
"Wow, that's clean, neat, simple and light....perfect for VFR fun
flying".... or...
"I'd never fly a plane without a 'steam' ASI, what if your new widget
fails????"
I say....who cares if it does fail??!! I don't intend to fly this plane
in
the soup...that's what I've got the IFR bird for.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon EMI update
See, I would think the Dynon would be a great primary instrument for
VFR.
Personnal kind of thing.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
==
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Message 51
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| Subject: | paint and engine exhaust |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Makes sense. I was just wondering if you'd done speed runs to try and
quantify the difference. Tracy Saylor told me he thought that he was
getting some augmentation affect also from the shortened pipes in the
cooling air exit area after he cut his. I can't remember how many knots
he said he got out of it, but he did say that he shortened his pipes
several times and his plane got faster each time.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: paint and engine exhaust
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Ed Holyoke wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Sam,
>
> How much faster did it get when you trimmed the exhaust?
>
> Ed Holyoke
Not sure of the numbers Ed, but its gotta be a lot faster. I mean, those
turned down pipes were hangin' right out in the wind, and as fast as a
RV flies, we all know how just a little streamlining goes a long way. It
just looks a LOT faster when you sight down the fuse and can't see those
pipes because they are tucked up in the canopy air exit. Also, the way
the plane barks through the abbreviated stacks means it has to be
producing several more horsepower.
It sorta reminds me of the speed I picked up when I got rid of those
draggy ol' tailwheel springs and chains and installed one of Terry
Jantzi's slick tailwheel linkages. I could almost hear the wind hissing
by the tail once those clanky spring and chains were gone.
The guys at the hangar are convinced that my plane is one of the fastest
RV-6's around because of the speed mods, and they know I would never
tell them anything that isn't true.
Sam Buchanan
===================
>
>
>>When I first started flying my RV-6 with the Vetterman exhaust, there
>
> was very little exhaust residue on the belly of the plane. But, I
> couldn't leave well enough alone so I *had* to trim the ends of the
> stacks so they wouldn't protrude into the slipstream and slow me down
> with all that drag.
>
>
>>So, my plane is now a whole lot faster but the price is the blue/gray
>
> exhaust residue on the black belly of my plane. The PPG Concept paint
> hasn't been damaged, but Simple Green or some water-based degreaser
> concentrate I bought at a Harbor Freight store is the only thing I
have
> found that will cut the residue with a reasonable amount of effort.
The
> degreaser (full strength) on a blue paper towel works better than the
> Simple Green and it is supposedly non-corrosive, but the bottom of the
> plane will probably fall off one of these days because I have used
> Simple Green a few times.......and also because I didn't prime every
> piece.......oh, and I also failed to use a deburring tool on every
rivet
>
> hole......Good Grief, this plane may be too dangerous to fly
> anymore.....
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6, leaving a trail of falling airplane parts across
> north Alabama)
>
>
==
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Message 52
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| Subject: | Dynon EMI update |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
The Dynon & Garmin 196 are my only "flight" instruments. That's what I
meant when I said "that's it". It's still a pretty minimal panel. In the
"radio stack", I have an IK-AIM1 Engine monitor which takes care of engine
stuff, then a PS Engineering ICS, ICOM IC-A200 Comm, an SL-70 TXPDR, and
fuel guages on the right side....Now that's everything! (Ooops, almost
forgot about my map box:)!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Do Not Archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EMI update
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
How about oil pressure and temp and tach? I seem to remember that fuel
gauges are required too.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon EMI update
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
My thoughts exactly! My new -6 which is "almost" ready to fly, has
exactly
TWO instruments in the panel.....1 Dynon, and 1 Garmin 196...THAT's IT!
Before people start the flaming....I intend this -6 as a VFR fun plane
only!
I already have an IFR -6, and the purpose of the VFR plane is simple,
light,
cheap and fun!!! Contrary to popular belief, your plane won't crash of
the
airspeed indicator quits working....a little "stick/rudder & seat of the
pants" flying goes a long way.
I've found that people who see my new panel react either one of two
ways:
"Wow, that's clean, neat, simple and light....perfect for VFR fun
flying".... or...
"I'd never fly a plane without a 'steam' ASI, what if your new widget
fails????"
I say....who cares if it does fail??!! I don't intend to fly this plane
in
the soup...that's what I've got the IFR bird for.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon EMI update
See, I would think the Dynon would be a great primary instrument for
VFR.
Personnal kind of thing.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
==
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==
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