Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:44 AM - Re: Cowl Plugs (Jim Sears)
2. 05:58 AM - Re: Cowl Plugs (Pat Perry)
3. 06:13 AM - Re: Cowl Plugs (Charles Rowbotham)
4. 06:23 AM - tailwheel links reply (Frazier, Vincent A)
5. 06:34 AM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (DWENSING@aol.com)
6. 07:13 AM - vent lines (bert murillo)
7. 07:13 AM - Re: Selling my RV6A (Lenleg@aol.com)
8. 07:15 AM - Lost log books (A20driver@aol.com)
9. 09:08 AM - Re: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting (Bill Dube)
10. 09:37 AM - Re: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting (Bruce Gray)
11. 09:40 AM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (LarryRobertHelming)
12. 09:54 AM - Instruments for Sale (Lenleg@aol.com)
13. 10:20 AM - Re: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting (Bill VonDane)
14. 10:38 AM - Re: vent lines (Paul Besing)
15. 11:07 AM - Re: Lost log books (Mike Robertson)
16. 11:16 AM - Microair T2000 Transponder problems (czechsix@juno.com)
17. 11:44 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (Dan Checkoway)
18. 11:53 AM - Re: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip (Dean Pichon)
19. 12:11 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (Dean Pichon)
20. 12:32 PM - Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
21. 12:33 PM - Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (Scott.Fink@microchip.com)
22. 01:26 PM - Re: Cowl Plugs (C. Rabaut)
23. 01:27 PM - EIS on during start (Andy Karmy)
24. 02:31 PM - Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (N13eer@aol.com)
25. 02:36 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Mike Robertson)
26. 02:46 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Mike Robertson)
27. 02:57 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Mike Robertson)
28. 03:03 PM - Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (dmedema@att.net)
29. 04:09 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (DWENSING@aol.com)
30. 06:01 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Dana Overall)
31. 07:05 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Sam Buchanan)
32. 07:16 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (Alex Peterson)
33. 07:16 PM - Re: vent lines (Bobby Hester)
34. 07:42 PM - Re: VS rib to spar gap (Paul Eastham)
35. 07:55 PM - Re: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip (Pete Waters)
36. 07:56 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (rob ray)
37. 08:05 PM - Gascolator extensions (hollandm)
38. 08:14 PM - Required Indicators for KNS-80 RNAV (Pete Waters)
39. 08:41 PM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (Jim Jewell)
40. 08:48 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (Jim Jewell)
41. 09:08 PM - Re: Gascolator extensions (Kyle Boatright)
42. 10:26 PM - [ Barry Bruns ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
> Anyone know where I could buy cowl plugs for an RV6?
>
> I've had some mud dubbers at work inside the engine cowl. Hopefully cowl
plugs will help.
>
You can pay lots of money and buy some fancy plugs; but, I'm cheap and found
a cheaper approach than the ones I bought for my Cheetah. I went to Walmart
and got two of their car washing sponges. They're sort of bow tie shaped
and cost about two dollars for the two. I then punched a couple of holes in
the center of each one and looped some ski rope through them. I made the
rope long enough that I could put it up and over the spinner so that they
could be slung out if I accidentally forgot to remove them before flight.
From experience, it works. :-) Granted, this is not a fancy way of doing
things; but, I've only had to buy two sets in four years. That's with my
airplane sitting outside all the time and facing into the sun. If you
hangar your airplane, they may last for years. I also cover the pitot with
short piece of arrow shaft that's blocked at the end to keep dobbers out of
there. I pull the carb heat fully to close the opening into the FAB to keep
out birds. All of this tends to work pretty well for an airplane that sits
on the ramp all year.
I know you're questioning my leaving my RV outside. It's simple. I could
afford a hangar; or, I could afford an airplane. Guess which I chose. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor.
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
Go to a toy store and buy a pair of matching nerf footballs. They also sell
miniature ones that fit perfectly into the carb air inlet. Pick up some
nylon rope at a hardware store and tie all three together so they can't be
accidentally left in on start-up.
Pat Perry
Dallas, PA
RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>From: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Cowl Plugs
>Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 09:43:03 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
>
>Anyone know where I could buy cowl plugs for an RV6?
>
>I've had some mud dubbers at work inside the engine cowl. Hopefully cowl
>plugs will help.
>
>Thanks
>
>Gabe A Ferrer
>RV6 N2GX 83 hours
>South Florida
>Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
>Cell: 561 758 8894
>Night Phone: 561 622 0960
>Fax: 561 622 0960
>
>
Cheer a special someone with a fun Halloween eCard from American Greetings!
Go to http://www.msn.americangreetings.com/index_msn.pd?source=msne134
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
All,
Don't forget the fuel vents - used a couple of vinal fiber optic caps with a
string thru each end and a Remove before flight streamer in the middle of
the string.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Plugs
>Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 07:41:59 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
> > Anyone know where I could buy cowl plugs for an RV6?
> >
> > I've had some mud dubbers at work inside the engine cowl. Hopefully cowl
>plugs will help.
> >
>
>You can pay lots of money and buy some fancy plugs; but, I'm cheap and
>found
>a cheaper approach than the ones I bought for my Cheetah. I went to
>Walmart
>and got two of their car washing sponges. They're sort of bow tie shaped
>and cost about two dollars for the two. I then punched a couple of holes
>in
>the center of each one and looped some ski rope through them. I made the
>rope long enough that I could put it up and over the spinner so that they
>could be slung out if I accidentally forgot to remove them before flight.
>From experience, it works. :-) Granted, this is not a fancy way of doing
>things; but, I've only had to buy two sets in four years. That's with my
>airplane sitting outside all the time and facing into the sun. If you
>hangar your airplane, they may last for years. I also cover the pitot with
>short piece of arrow shaft that's blocked at the end to keep dobbers out of
>there. I pull the carb heat fully to close the opening into the FAB to
>keep
>out birds. All of this tends to work pretty well for an airplane that sits
>on the ramp all year.
>
>I know you're questioning my leaving my RV outside. It's simple. I could
>afford a hangar; or, I could afford an airplane. Guess which I chose. :-)
>
>Jim Sears in KY
>RV-6A N198JS
>EAA Tech Counselor.
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | tailwheel links reply |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP I gave Van's Tech Support a copy of one of the e-mails about tailwheel
chains coming loose. Tom Green kindly replied (see below). Anyone have
some specific info for him?
David Carter
> Dave, no, but in all of the years, I have never seen it... it would be
> interesting to know of an individual and how it happened... Tom SNIP
My RV-4 did it. John's RV-6 did it too. And judging by the ones I've seen at Oshkosh
that are in various degrees of spreading out, or are wrapped with safety
wire, I don't think it's uncommon at all.
How does the link get spread out? Who knows? I can only SPECULATE (caps indicate
that I am SPECULATING here)that when those chains bounce around OCCASIONALLY
the link in question gets a little sideways. Then you hit just the right rough
spot and "TWANG"..... link spreads open or fails.
As Dennis Miller says during his rants..."but that's just my opinion, I could be
wrong."
Vince in Indiana
RV repeat offender since 1987
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
> For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize or
> Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
>
>
Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that will
give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing epoxy does
provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
Dale Ensing
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Hi:
I am ready to install wings, question is I found that
the Vent line connection to the tank, is very difficult,
first i put the line to far aft, and there is very
little space, between connection from tank, which by
the way faces to the leading edge with an 90o,fitting,
I wish they would put a straight connection,, so
I am thinking of a flexible line,, any comments
as to what kind? Any other suggestions...
Appreciate your input...
Bert
rv6a
on wings
Do Not archive
Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Selling my RV6A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
Ed:
You mean you can keep only one plane .... and you choose the Cessna ?????
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
161 hrs
> >It's with a great deal of regret I have to announce I am putting my RV6A
> up
> >for sale. Personal reasons are to blame (saving a marriage etc) N925RV was
> >built by Fred Stucklen (I am the 2nd owner) and first flew in 1993. She is
> >very well equiped - full IFR certified with Garmin 300XL GPS, Dual VORS,
> >ADF, Auto pilot, electric trim and electric flaps and more. She is in the
> >shop undergoing her annual right now. I just returned from flying her to &
> >from the AOPA Expo in Philly. She flies like a dream and I hate to sell
> her.
> >Going price $75K . For more info contact me directly at
> >eregensburg@triad.rr.com
> >336-275-3009
> >Ed Regensburg
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: A20driver@aol.com
Have lost logbooks for my RV-3....Has anyone info on the procedure for
replacement???? JLB, NJ- RV.3
Message 9
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Subject: | Info on the talked about "LED" lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 08:54 PM 11/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
>Do you have the lights in 28v?
The LED position lights operate from 10 volts to 30 volts.
Message 10
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Subject: | Info on the talked about "LED" lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
What about the landing lights, HID and regular?
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dube
Subject: RE: RV-List: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 08:54 PM 11/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
>Do you have the lights in 28v?
The LED position lights operate from 10 volts to 30 volts.
=
==
==
==
==
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the finish
painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it flow
out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there is
plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other primers.
Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth large
enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best way
to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
----- Original Message -----
From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
>
>
> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize or
> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
> >
> >
>
> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that will
> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
epoxy does
> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
> Dale Ensing
>
>
Message 12
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Subject: | Instruments for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
List:
I have the following for sale:
RC Allen Electric Attitude Indicator with 8 degree tilt
14V , unlighted
RC Allen Electric DG
14V , unlighted
These instruments list for $1895 each. They are still in my plane and are
working perfectly. Make an offer. I will be posting to Ebay this week. I am
switching to Dynon. I have been flying these instruments one year.
Len Leggette RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
The strobe power supply will operate from 10 to 30 VDC as well...
The halogen and HID lamps I currently sell operate up to 15 VDC...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 08:54 PM 11/2/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
>Do you have the lights in 28v?
The LED position lights operate from 10 volts to 30 volts.
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I had the same issue, and used flexible line here as well. Braided steel
Earls line from WM Engineering (in the yeller pages). I think it was #6
size perform o flex, with 90 degree AN fittings on each end. Put in a
bulkhead in the fuselage, and you will be all set.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
Subject: RV-List: vent lines
> --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
> Hi:
>
> I am ready to install wings, question is I found that
> the Vent line connection to the tank, is very difficult,
> first i put the line to far aft, and there is very
> little space, between connection from tank, which by
> the way faces to the leading edge with an 90o,fitting,
> I wish they would put a straight connection,, so
> I am thinking of a flexible line,, any comments
> as to what kind? Any other suggestions...
>
> Appreciate your input...
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> on wings
>
> Do Not archive
>
> Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at
http://isp.BlueLight.com
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Lost log books |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Pbviously you need new logboos. You will need to reconstruct, to the best
of your knowledge, the times for everything. Then you will need to make an
entry to the effect that the prior leogbooks were lost. Then a new
condition inspection will need to be done unless you still have a copy of
the inspection checklist you used and it is dated. Then you will need to
get the transponder and encoder checks redone. I think that is about it.
Mike Robertson
>From: A20driver@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Lost log books
>Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 10:15:02 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: A20driver@aol.com
>
>Have lost logbooks for my RV-3....Has anyone info on the procedure for
>replacement???? JLB, NJ- RV.3
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Microair T2000 Transponder problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
A friend of mine, Alan Kritzman, has had problems with his Microair T2000 tranponder
installed in his RV-8, and since I have the same unit but am not flying
yet, I'm posting this to ask if anyone else has had the same trouble.
The symptoms are very repeatable: whenever taking off out of a controlled field
with radar service, the controllers always say they are not picking up the transponder.
After the aircraft is about 5 miles from the airport, the power is
cycled using the transponders on/off button and then the tower picks up the signal
normally. If the flight originates from a nearby uncontrolled field, the
controllers pick the the transponder normally when approaching the towered airport
without having to cycle power on the unit. The coax has been replaced
and the antenna replaced and moved in attempts to fix the problem. Then Alan
took his transponder out and sent it back to Microair in Australia for repairs,
and while it was gone, he installed my identical transponder in his airplane
with the same problem. A few days ago he got a brand new and different unit
back from Microair and it too exhibits the same problem.
Anybody else flying out of Class C or other facility with radar that has experienced
this problem? Or, any idea what could cause it in terms of the installation
as opposed to the transponder itself?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Where's the antenna located? Think it could have something to do with
shadowing? Figure if it only happens on departure (when the plane is
generally always facing *away* from the facility), and only at low altitude,
sounds like antenna shadowing to me...but that's just a wild ass guess from
somebody who knows very little about this stuff.
do not archive (but archive the reply if relevant)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <czechsix@juno.com>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
> Guys,
>
> A friend of mine, Alan Kritzman, has had problems with his Microair T2000
tranponder installed in his RV-8, and since I have the same unit but am not
flying yet, I'm posting this to ask if anyone else has had the same trouble.
>
> The symptoms are very repeatable: whenever taking off out of a controlled
field with radar service, the controllers always say they are not picking up
the transponder. After the aircraft is about 5 miles from the airport, the
power is cycled using the transponders on/off button and then the tower
picks up the signal normally. If the flight originates from a nearby
uncontrolled field, the controllers pick the the transponder normally when
approaching the towered airport without having to cycle power on the unit.
The coax has been replaced and the antenna replaced and moved in attempts to
fix the problem. Then Alan took his transponder out and sent it back to
Microair in Australia for repairs, and while it was gone, he installed my
identical transponder in his airplane with the same problem. A few days ago
he got a brand new and different unit back from Microair and it too exhibits
the same problem.
>
> Anybody else flying out of Class C or other facility with radar that has
experienced this problem? Or, any idea what could cause it in terms of the
installation as opposed to the transponder itself?
>
> Thanks,
>
> --Mark Navratil
> Cedar Rapids, Iowa
> RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
>
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
I did not wire the fuel pump through my Infinity Aerospace grip, but did
wire the flaps through it. For this arrangement, I used a relay to protect
the small switch (and wires) in the grip. I believe the current draw of a
high pressure fuel pump would require a similar arrangement. When I wired
my grip, I spoke with JD (at Infinity Aerospace) and received good advice
from him - you may wish to do the same.
Good luck,
Dean
RV-4, 160 hrs
Worcester, MA
>From: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip
>Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 11:22:24 -0800 (PST)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson <dag_adamson@yahoo.com>
>
>All-
>
>I am thinking of taking advantage of all those
>switches in the Infinity Aerospace grip.
>
>Has anyone run a high pressure fuel pump and the
>lights through the grip?
>
>The wires look like 20/22 gauge wire - did you put a
>relay in between the switch and the rest of the
>circuit (fuse/circuit breaker etc.)?
>
>Thanks
>Dag
>
>=====
>*****************
>Dag Adamson
>617 513 1182
>Cambridge, MA
>Grand Junction, CO
>*****************
>
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>
>
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Message 19
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|
Subject: | Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
At 150hrs, I found my plate was severely cracked. The plate in my -4 was
the anodized version supplied with the fuel injection system purchased from
Airflow Performance. I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance about the
failure. He told me it was the first he had heard of this part failing and
asked me to send him the plate (for which he sent me a new one) for
analysis. I have not since spoken with Don, but I may give him a call to
let him know many others have experienced similar failures.
I believe failure is caused by vibrations due to relative motion between the
cowl and the engine. I have a relatively "stiff" connection between the FAB
and the cowl and am concerned it may crack again. I don't believe making
the plate stiffer will solve the problem. The movement of the engine
(especially during starting/stopping) will not be in any way diminished by
stiffening the FAB plate. If we assume the magnitude of the deflection to
remain constant, either the (stiffened) plate will fail again, or the plate
will transfer this larger load to a more expensive structure (cowl?), or
both.
Regards,
Dean
RV-4
Worcester, MA
>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate
>Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 22:56:22 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>During an oil change today, I noticed a bit more compliance when I moved
>the forward end of the FAB up and down. Upon further inspection, I
>found that the elliptical plate which mounts to the carb (or in my case,
>the fuel servo) had cracked. The aft two mounting bolts were
>effectively not doing anything anymore, since the cracks isolated that
>area from the remainder.
>
>I actually had an extra one of these plates, as one came with the FAB
>kit from Van's, while another one came with the Airflow Performance
>system. Of course, I carved the extra one up for some other purpose
>long ago. Probably made a bracket for something or another from it.
>
>One lesson here is that it pays to inspect things under the cowl at
>every oil change.
>
>Alex Peterson
>Maple Grove, MN
>RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
>www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has exceeded
Message 20
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|
Subject: | Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems |
11/03/2003 01:56:29 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
It sound like the antenna is in ground resonance on the ground. Has he
replaced the belly antenna? You might also have a local FBO check the
antenna signal strength with their x-ponder check equipment. Also while
your at it you could have your friend get his pitot static system checked
at the FBO to see if his airspeed altitude numbers are accurate. I am not
familiar with the Microair x-ponder but does it have standby mode? And if
so is your friend placing the switch in the "on" position prior to takeoff?
I have worked on a lot of old bendix/king x-ponders where they would not
work on the ground but would work fine in the air. I used to have an
instructor that would not let me place the switch in the on position untill
after takeoff just for the above mentioned reason.
For what it's worth.
do not archive
Glenn Williams
Message 21
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|
Subject: | Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems |
11/03/2003 01:33:23 PM,
Serialize complete at 11/03/2003 01:33:23 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott.Fink@Microchip.com
The antenna is probably being blanked by the airframe when flying away
from the controlled field. Is your friend cycleing the power after
leveling off after 5 miles then asking if they can see him? If so, have
him level off and not cycle the power and see if they can see him.
This theory makes sense approaching the controlled field from the
uncontrolled since the antenna will not be blanked.
Scott
czechsix@juno.com
Sent by: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
11/03/2003 12:15 PM
Please respond to rv-list
To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com
cc:
Subject: RV-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys,
A friend of mine, Alan Kritzman, has had problems with his Microair T2000
tranponder installed in his RV-8, and since I have the same unit but am
not flying yet, I'm posting this to ask if anyone else has had the same
trouble.
The symptoms are very repeatable: whenever taking off out of a controlled
field with radar service, the controllers always say they are not picking
up the transponder. After the aircraft is about 5 miles from the airport,
the power is cycled using the transponders on/off button and then the
tower picks up the signal normally. If the flight originates from a
nearby uncontrolled field, the controllers pick the the transponder
normally when approaching the towered airport without having to cycle
power on the unit. The coax has been replaced and the antenna replaced
and moved in attempts to fix the problem. Then Alan took his transponder
out and sent it back to Microair in Australia for repairs, and while it
was gone, he installed my identical transponder in his airplane with the
same problem. A few days ago he got a brand new and different unit back
from Microair and it too exhibits the same problem.
Anybody else flying out of Class C or other facility with radar that has
experienced this problem? Or, any idea what could cause it in terms of
the installation as opposed to the transponder itself?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D finishing...
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Pat,
Great minds think alike. I've got a small Nerf football stuffed into
my intake and a rope (with a red "Remove Before Flight" flag) attached to my
prop. If you forget to remove it, the first crank tosses the football & a
flag on the play.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Pat Perry <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Plugs
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" <pperryrv@hotmail.com>
>
> Go to a toy store and buy a pair of matching nerf footballs. They also
sell
> miniature ones that fit perfectly into the carb air inlet. Pick up some
> nylon rope at a hardware store and tie all three together so they can't be
> accidentally left in on start-up.
>
>
> Pat Perry
> Dallas, PA
> RV-4 N154PK Flies great!
>
>
> >From: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Cowl Plugs
> >Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 09:43:03 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
> >
> >Anyone know where I could buy cowl plugs for an RV6?
> >
> >I've had some mud dubbers at work inside the engine cowl. Hopefully cowl
> >plugs will help.
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Gabe A Ferrer
> >RV6 N2GX 83 hours
> >South Florida
> >Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net
> >Cell: 561 758 8894
> >Night Phone: 561 622 0960
> >Fax: 561 622 0960
> >
> >
>
> Cheer a special someone with a fun Halloween eCard from American
Greetings!
> Go to http://www.msn.americangreetings.com/index_msn.pd?source=msne134
>
>
Message 23
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|
Subject: | EIS on during start |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" <andy@karmy.com>
Ok, the question seems to be the subject of much speculation
based upon the original post, which was a mis-wire or
connection issue, not a powerup issue at all.
The Grand Rapids EIS is very happy being on during start. I
have mine on the main electrical bus and it comes on with the
master. Upon start it dims just a bit (it's good down to 5V) and
suffers no ill effects. I instantly have a flashing zero oil
pressure reading and then slowly watch it rise until it's over
the min threshold and the screen returns to my default startup
page.
I am very happy with the company and the product!
- Andy Karmy
RV9a Seattle WA
145hrs TT
Message 24
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|
Subject: | Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
Scott,
I don't think it is a blanking issue, I have departed on runway 09 and circuled
to the west with the same result as climbing straight out. ATC does not get
anything until I cycle power. I have also relocated the antenna, now there is
nothing within 24 inches of the transponder antenna.
Thanks
Alan Kritzman
In a message dated 12/2/2003 12:39:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, Scott.Fink@microchip.com
writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott.Fink@Microchip.com
>
>The antenna is probably being blanked by the airframe when flying away
>from the controlled field. Is your friend cycleing the power after
>leveling off after 5 miles then asking if they can see him? If so, have
>him level off and not cycle the power and see if they can see him.
>
>This theory makes sense approaching the controlled field from the
>uncontrolled since the antenna will not be blanked.
>
>Scott
>
>
>czechsix@juno.com
>Sent by: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>11/03/2003 12:15 PM
>Please respond to rv-list
>
>
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com
> cc:
> Subject: RV-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
>
>
>Guys,
>
>A friend of mine, Alan Kritzman, has had problems with his Microair T2000
>tranponder installed in his RV-8, and since I have the same unit but am
>not flying yet, I'm posting this to ask if anyone else has had the same
>trouble.
>
>The symptoms are very repeatable: whenever taking off out of a controlled
>field with radar service, the controllers always say they are not picking
>up the transponder. After the aircraft is about 5 miles from the airport,
>the power is cycled using the transponders on/off button and then the
>tower picks up the signal normally. If the flight originates from a
>nearby uncontrolled field, the controllers pick the the transponder
>normally when approaching the towered airport without having to cycle
>power on the unit. The coax has been replaced and the antenna replaced
>and moved in attempts to fix the problem. Then Alan took his transponder
>out and sent it back to Microair in Australia for repairs, and while it
>was gone, he installed my identical transponder in his airplane with the
>same problem. A few days ago he got a brand new and different unit back
>from Microair and it too exhibits the same problem.
>
>Anybody else flying out of Class C or other facility with radar that has
>experienced this problem? Or, any idea what could cause it in terms of
>the installation as opposed to the transponder itself?
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D finishing...
>
>
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Sam,
Sorry it took me so long to reply but I wanted to check on something to amek
sure I was giving you the right info.
There is NO requirement to have or use a VOR for IFR enroute. The reg says
that you will have navigation equipment compatible with the ground
facilities to be used. If you don't use any ground facilities then there is
no need for ground based navigational equipment. An enroute GPS may be the
only thing you use for IFR enroute.
Now if you do use a VOR for enroute navigation then the GPS can be of any
make/model that you want.
Mike Robertson
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's
>Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 17:05:38 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
> >
> > But practically speaking, this means the IFR GPS must be TSO'd.
> >
> > If the box was capable of meeting the requirements of the TSO, the
> > manufacturer would sell it as TSO'd so he had access to the type
> > certificated aircraft market. And I have difficulty believing a
> > hobbyist will cobble together a homebuilt GPS that meets all the TSO
> > requirements.
> >
> > Kevin Horton
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >>
> >>Kevin,
> >>
> >>What you say is true. GPS must MEET the requirements of the TSO for IFR
>use
> >>but do not have to BE TSO'd.
> >>
> >>Mike
> >>
>
>
>We're talking about GPS for approaches, not enroute, right? And doesn't
>the enroute GPS have to be a "supplement" (FAA Advisory Circular 20-138)
>to onboard navigational equipment that is ground based (VOR)? And since
>the primary enroute navigation is ground based, the enroute GPS doesn't
>have to meet the requirements of a TSO, right?
>
>In other words, as I understand it, a handheld GPS is fine for enroute
>IFR ops as long as an operational VOR receiver (handheld???) is in the
>plane. The TSO-equivalent GPS is required for approaches.
>
>We are not discussing what is prudent, only what is literally required
>by the FARs.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
Never get a busy signal because you are always connected with high-speed
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Message 26
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|
Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
See answers enbedded below.
Mike Robertson
>From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
>Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 18:38:33 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England
><cengland@netdoor.com>
>
>This begs questions of much more practical significance that
>constructing my own GPS or transponder.
>
>Can I, as the builder, legally demonstrate compliance of the
>*installation* of an IFR GPS in my plane?
YES
>
>Can I, as the builder, legally calibrate the static system/altimeter
>(manometers are relatively easy to construct) & verify that the mode C
>is correctly reporting altitude?
Look at CFR 91.411(b) and 413(c) for your answers here. If you are not an
airframe mechanic then you, as the builder, may not conduct the encoder and
transponder checks. If you have an airfrasme mechanics certificate then you
can do the encoder checks but not the tranponder. A repair station can do
the encoder and must do the tranponder.
>
>Next, addressing the issue of 'navigational equipment appropriate to
>the ground facilities to be used'. Aren't there now (or there soon will
>be) GPS approaches to airports that have no other instrument approach?
>If that is correct, do you need ADF or VOR to fly an approach there? If
>not, then part B follows: If you are flying a GPS approach into an
>airport that has both GPS & other approaches, you aren't using 'ground
>facilities'. Do you still need ADF and/or VOR to fly that approach?
>
Here you may want to get into the AIMS. You can use an IFR approved enroute
GPS NOW and not have any ground based nav equipment. You can use approach
approved GPS for non-precision GPS approaches now and can use it to identify
ADF and intersection fixes now. The only caviat is that for precision
approaches that require DME you must still have a DME receiver on board.
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>
Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has exceeded
Message 27
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|
Subject: | IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
John,
Please don't take this a rude but it means exactly what it says. Once the
FAA buys off your plane, everything on it, for that aircraft ONLY, is
approved. For example, what if you had Hooker Harness seatbelts. They are
not an approved seatbelt. They are definitely better that most of the
approved belts out there IMHO. But once the DAR signs off the inspection
and issues the airworthiness certificate the belts become "approved" for use
on that aircraft. The same goes for lights.
As far as the second point, the inspector/DAR issues Operating Limitations
at the time of certification. He has the option of limiting the aircraft to
Day VFR use only, or of giving the authorization for night and/or IFR
operation. You will notice that I did not say anything about IFR
certification as there is none needed. He just has to note that the
aircraft is equipped for more than Day VFR and issue the appropriate
operating limitation. The pilot is responsible to ensure the aircraft is
properly equipped for night and/or IFR operations in accordance with the
requirements of CFR 91.205.
Mike Robertson
>From: "John Brick" <jbrick@wolfenet.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's
>Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 10:37:48 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Brick" <jbrick@wolfenet.com>
>
>
>On Wed Oct 29 12:01:27 2003, Mike Robertson wrote :
> >[ ... snip ... ]
>
> >For amateur built aircraft, equipment installed on
> >the aircraft at certification is considered FAA approved.
>
>Mike,
>
>I have not seen this statement before. Where does it come from? What does
>it
>really mean?
>
>It seems like the operating limitations put the burden on the operator for
>anything beyond day / vfr. So why should the DAR get concerned about ifr
>equipment, homemade or otherwise.
>
>We are not asking the DAR for ifr certification, so why would the subject
>even come up?
>
>Thanks,
>
>jb
>
>
Message 28
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|
Subject: | Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
Could it possibly be the blind encoder is not warmed up and not transmitting
data to the xpndr? My blind encoder takes a number of minutes before it will
start sending data to the xpndr, and thus the xpndr will not report an
altitude. In my case the transponder is a Garmin GTX327 and the blind
encoder is an ACK A-30.
Message 29
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|
Subject: | Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 11/2/03 4:07:43 PM Eastern Standard Time,
chrisjgood@lycos.com writes:
> . I made a new plate from .062 aluminimum & added a steel brace dropping
> down from one of the front crank case bolts to the front bolt attaching the
> air box to the plate. This stiffens it up dramatically, avoiding motion
> transmitted fom the flexible air intake coupling. I'm sorry I can't remember
which
> lister suggested this method, but it was not my idea.
Hi Chris,
I think it was Randall Henderson. He has a picture of his on his web page.
Dale Ensing
Message 30
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|
Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
You can use approach
approved GPS for non-precision GPS approaches now and can use it to identify
ADF and intersection fixes now. The only caviat is that for precision
approaches that require DME you must still have a DME receiver on board.
Mike, I would like to differ with you on the above point. It is my
understanding from conversations with various individuals of knowledge and a
couple different companies supplying approach certified GPS, as long as the
GPS database is current and identifies within that database the DME point
the GPS is a substitute for DME. You the pilot cannot load a waypoint into
the system and use that for the DME point even if you know the exact
coordinates of such. Certainly correct me if I am wrong.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing
on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
Message 31
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|
Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Mike Robertson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> Sam,
>
> Sorry it took me so long to reply but I wanted to check on something to amek
> sure I was giving you the right info.
>
> There is NO requirement to have or use a VOR for IFR enroute. The reg says
> that you will have navigation equipment compatible with the ground
> facilities to be used. If you don't use any ground facilities then there is
> no need for ground based navigational equipment. An enroute GPS may be the
> only thing you use for IFR enroute.
>
> Now if you do use a VOR for enroute navigation then the GPS can be of any
> make/model that you want.
>
> Mike Robertson
Thanks for the follow up, Mike. Here is the quote from Advisory Circular
138-20 that the EAA is using in their opinion about GPS in IFR ops:
Paragraph 4, Background, subparagraph g:
(3) IFR Navigation Equipment. GPS equipment for IFR
navigation is for use as a supplemental navigation system. The
installation of GPS equipment does not affect the requirement for
a primary means of navigation appropriate to the route intended
to be flown. Within the contiguous United States, Alaska,
Hawaii, and surrounding coastal waters, this requirement can be
met with an operational, independent VOR receiver. Additional
navigation equipment redundancy may be required for operation in
oceanic and remote airspace.
Are experimental aircraft subject to the requirements of the AC20-138?
Or, is the AC *only* advisory, not regulatory, in scope? Or, has this AC
been superseded by something newer?
Thanks in advance for your reply,
Sam Buchanan
===============
Message 32
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|
Subject: | Cracked FAB mounting plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> At 150hrs, I found my plate was severely cracked. The plate
> in my -4 was
> the anodized version supplied with the fuel injection system
> purchased from
> Airflow Performance. I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance
> about the
> failure. He told me it was the first he had heard of this
> part failing and
> asked me to send him the plate (for which he sent me a new one) for
> analysis. I have not since spoken with Don, but I may give
> him a call to
> let him know many others have experienced similar failures.
>
> I believe failure is caused by vibrations due to relative
> motion between the
> cowl and the engine. I have a relatively "stiff" connection
> between the FAB
> and the cowl and am concerned it may crack again. I don't
> believe making
> the plate stiffer will solve the problem. The movement of the engine
> (especially during starting/stopping) will not be in any way
> diminished by
> stiffening the FAB plate. If we assume the magnitude of the
> deflection to
> remain constant, either the (stiffened) plate will fail
> again, or the plate
> will transfer this larger load to a more expensive structure
> (cowl?), or
> both.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dean
> RV-4
> Worcester, MA
Dean,
I agree with everything you've said. I don't know if you caught my
message about the Airflow Performance mounting ring having a very sharp
edge which contacts the mounting plate in question. I suspect that
radiusing that will help a lot.
IMPORTANT: Everyone needs to understand that if the plate cracks enough,
the engine could swallow chunks of it!
A better solution would be a better system to interface the FAB snout to
the cowl. If one uses the air seal rubberized fabric, it is almost
impossible to get any real flexibility. I would think some sort of
bellows like affair might be better. It seems the problem is the lack
of fore/aft clearance which can be had in this area. When I initially
fabricated my FAB, I cut the front end as short as I could while still
retaining an alternate air door. Even with it being short, there still
isn't a lot of distance from the cowl to it.
I have often wondered if we had a video camera under the cowl, would we
decide not to fly these things....
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
bert murillo wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" <bert6@mybluelight.com>
>
>Hi:
>
> I am ready to install wings, question is I found that
>the Vent line connection to the tank, is very difficult,
>first i put the line to far aft, and there is very
>little space, between connection from tank, which by
>the way faces to the leading edge with an 90o,fitting,
>I wish they would put a straight connection,, so
> I am thinking of a flexible line,, any comments
>as to what kind? Any other suggestions...
>
>Appreciate your input...
>
>Bert
>
>rv6a
>
>on wings
>
>
>
I thought it was going to be hard untill I got my spring bender and went
at it. It wasn't bad at all!
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FuseAssyPg2.htm
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 34
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|
Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
Followup on what I wrote a while ago:
> I have been trying to rivet my VS ribs to the forward spar for a while now.
> (RV-9, but same VS in 7 and 8) After some learning curve on the rivet gun,
> my only remaining problem is that a gap forms between the rib and spar as I
> drive the rivet.
Gus at Van's told me that gaps "are not good" and to drill out and clamp
better, or use pop rivets if I cannot eliminate the gap. I've tried clamping
everywhere possible but still have gaps forming. Now I find this old post from
Scott at Vans:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=46098614?KEYS=spar_&_rib_&_gap?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=108?SERIAL=18500310051?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
Which seems to say that small gaps are ok (on the HS) if the parts are tight
before riveting, which they have been. My gaps are small too (.01 - .02"?
Can't find a feeler gauge)
After lots of experimenting one of the causes that seems impossible to
eliminate here is that you cannot clamp both sides of the flange surrounding
some of the rivets. This seems to allow enough slack to allow the flange to
lift up as the shop head is formed.
After at least 10 drilled rivets, 2 damaged holes (about to receive AD5
rivets), several nicks on my spar, countless test strips to try to identify the
problem, and a *huge* delay, I guess I will push ahead gaps and all. Anyone
want to argue for the pop rivet approach? I wish I knew how common this
problem is because I sure don't see anyone else using pop rivets here...did
anyone else hold their spar up to the light and not see a gap?
Just barely hanging on,
Paul
__________________________________
http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
Message 35
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|
Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: Pete Waters <pedroagua@yahoo.com>
Be careful running your flaps off a stick-mounted switch. On the RV-4 I bought,
the flaps switch was on the top of the stick. On a recent flight I inadvertently
deployed the flaps to 30% and flew around for half an hour or so at 40 KIAS
above flap speed. Ow. Fortunately, the guys at Van's say this isn't a problem
at only 30% flaps.
My point is, be cautious about putting every control on the stick grip. Some
control are not MEANT to be easy to get to.
Pedro
rmickey@ix.netcom.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: rmickey@ix.netcom.com
Yes, you need to use relays. I run my flaps through the grip.
My Infinity grip set up...
PTT---Trigger
Alieron/elevator trim hat
Flaps down and up with limit switch for automatic shut off
Comm1 flip/flp and playback for my SL15
TruTrack Control Wheel Autopilot Switch
Previous/next screens on my GRT engine monitor
Ross Mickey
RV6A N9PT
Inspection on Thursday
-----Original Message-----
From: dag adamson
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip
--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson
All-
I am thinking of taking advantage of all those
switches in the Infinity Aerospace grip.
Has anyone run a high pressure fuel pump and the
lights through the grip?
The wires look like 20/22 gauge wire - did you put a
relay in between the switch and the rest of the
circuit (fuse/circuit breaker etc.)?
Dag
---------------------------------
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|
Subject: | Cracked FAB mounting plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Another suggestion would be to eliminate the FAB altogether in lieu of a "tunnel
ram". I use unfiltered ram air above 1000' AGL via an aluminum tube I fabricated
that attaches to the base of the carb and fits flush against the lip of
the scoop inlet. I have a flapper valve with a 2" duct behind it 4" down the tube.
With the flapper closed, inlet air is ducted through a remote K&N filter.
On the ground I close the valve and open it after safely airborne. I gain about
50 RPM and 1"MP at sea level and almost 2" at 5000'. There is plenty of room
in the "scoop" for the tunnel and I have never had a problem in 1100 hours.
Rob Ray
Alex Peterson <alexpeterson@usjet.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>
> At 150hrs, I found my plate was severely cracked. The plate
> in my -4 was
> the anodized version supplied with the fuel injection system
> purchased from
> Airflow Performance. I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance
> about the
> failure. He told me it was the first he had heard of this
> part failing and
> asked me to send him the plate (for which he sent me a new one) for
> analysis. I have not since spoken with Don, but I may give
> him a call to
> let him know many others have experienced similar failures.
>
> I believe failure is caused by vibrations due to relative
> motion between the
> cowl and the engine. I have a relatively "stiff" connection
> between the FAB
> and the cowl and am concerned it may crack again. I don't
> believe making
> the plate stiffer will solve the problem. The movement of the engine
> (especially during starting/stopping) will not be in any way
> diminished by
> stiffening the FAB plate. If we assume the magnitude of the
> deflection to
> remain constant, either the (stiffened) plate will fail
> again, or the plate
> will transfer this larger load to a more expensive structure
> (cowl?), or
> both.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dean
> RV-4
> Worcester, MA
Dean,
I agree with everything you've said. I don't know if you caught my
message about the Airflow Performance mounting ring having a very sharp
edge which contacts the mounting plate in question. I suspect that
radiusing that will help a lot.
IMPORTANT: Everyone needs to understand that if the plate cracks enough,
the engine could swallow chunks of it!
A better solution would be a better system to interface the FAB snout to
the cowl. If one uses the air seal rubberized fabric, it is almost
impossible to get any real flexibility. I would think some sort of
bellows like affair might be better. It seems the problem is the lack
of fore/aft clearance which can be had in this area. When I initially
fabricated my FAB, I cut the front end as short as I could while still
retaining an alternate air door. Even with it being short, there still
isn't a lot of distance from the cowl to it.
I have often wondered if we had a video camera under the cowl, would we
decide not to fly these things....
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
---------------------------------
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|
Subject: | Gascolator extensions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
I'm considering adding a short extension tube to the bottom of the gascolator to
so that the quick drain will end-up flush with the canopy bottom. Is there
any problem with this? My concern is with possible movement of the canopy and
how much clearance to allow, choice of material for the tube and fittings.
Thanks
Message 38
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|
Subject: | Required Indicators for KNS-80 RNAV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Pete Waters <pedroagua@yahoo.com>
All,
Does anybody know if a KI-209 VOR/ILS CDI indicator can be used with a Collins
KNS-80 RNAV? Normally, the KNS-80 uses a KI-206 (as the KX-155 normally uses
the KI-209 or KI-208). I believe the difference is that the KI-206 has no internal
resolver (relying instead on the KNS-80's internal resolver), while the
KI-209 does. That seem to imply that you could hook up the KNS-80 to the KI-209
and just use one of the resolvers, leaving the other disconnected. Maybe.
Anybody know?
Pedro
---------------------------------
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|
Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Paul,
It's really hard to be sure but from your description it sounds like you
could be guilty of being too fussy.
Now keep in mind that no other builder before you fell pray to such a
malady. Shame on you! tsk tsk.(;-}!
If the you put he framework inside the skin and it all clekos together with
good hole alignment chances are you will be good to go.
You might consider leaving it and moving on for a while. With the added
wisdom that comes from making and fixing mistreakes elsewhere you can come
back to it troubleshoot and flash it together later, no problem.
Happy building,
Jim (I never make mistreaks) Jewell in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <abstraction@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
>
> Followup on what I wrote a while ago:
>
> > I have been trying to rivet my VS ribs to the forward spar for a while
now.
> > (RV-9, but same VS in 7 and 8) After some learning curve on the rivet
gun,
> > my only remaining problem is that a gap forms between the rib and spar
as I
> > drive the rivet.
>
> Gus at Van's told me that gaps "are not good" and to drill out and clamp
> better, or use pop rivets if I cannot eliminate the gap. I've tried
clamping
> everywhere possible but still have gaps forming. Now I find this old post
from
> Scott at Vans:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=46098614?KEYS=spar_&_rib_&_gap?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=108?SERIAL=18500310051?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
>
> Which seems to say that small gaps are ok (on the HS) if the parts are
tight
> before riveting, which they have been. My gaps are small too (.01 - .02"?
> Can't find a feeler gauge)
>
> After lots of experimenting one of the causes that seems impossible to
> eliminate here is that you cannot clamp both sides of the flange
surrounding
> some of the rivets. This seems to allow enough slack to allow the flange
to
> lift up as the shop head is formed.
>
> After at least 10 drilled rivets, 2 damaged holes (about to receive AD5
> rivets), several nicks on my spar, countless test strips to try to
identify the
> problem, and a *huge* delay, I guess I will push ahead gaps and all.
Anyone
> want to argue for the pop rivet approach? I wish I knew how common this
> problem is because I sure don't see anyone else using pop rivets
here...did
> anyone else hold their spar up to the light and not see a gap?
>
> Just barely hanging on,
> Paul
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
>
>
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|
Subject: | Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Rob,
hows about some pictures sometime?
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate
> --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
>
> Another suggestion would be to eliminate the FAB altogether in lieu of a
"tunnel ram". I use unfiltered ram air above 1000' AGL via an aluminum tube
I fabricated that attaches to the base of the carb and fits flush against
the lip of the scoop inlet. I have a flapper valve with a 2" duct behind it
4" down the tube. With the flapper closed, inlet air is ducted through a
remote K&N filter. On the ground I close the valve and open it after safely
airborne. I gain about 50 RPM and 1"MP at sea level and almost 2" at 5000'.
There is plenty of room in the "scoop" for the tunnel and I have never had a
problem in 1100 hours.
>
> Rob Ray
>
>
> Alex Peterson <alexpeterson@usjet.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>
>
> >
> > At 150hrs, I found my plate was severely cracked. The plate
> > in my -4 was
> > the anodized version supplied with the fuel injection system
> > purchased from
> > Airflow Performance. I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance
> > about the
> > failure. He told me it was the first he had heard of this
> > part failing and
> > asked me to send him the plate (for which he sent me a new one) for
> > analysis. I have not since spoken with Don, but I may give
> > him a call to
> > let him know many others have experienced similar failures.
> >
> > I believe failure is caused by vibrations due to relative
> > motion between the
> > cowl and the engine. I have a relatively "stiff" connection
> > between the FAB
> > and the cowl and am concerned it may crack again. I don't
> > believe making
> > the plate stiffer will solve the problem. The movement of the engine
> > (especially during starting/stopping) will not be in any way
> > diminished by
> > stiffening the FAB plate. If we assume the magnitude of the
> > deflection to
> > remain constant, either the (stiffened) plate will fail
> > again, or the plate
> > will transfer this larger load to a more expensive structure
> > (cowl?), or
> > both.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Dean
> > RV-4
> > Worcester, MA
>
> Dean,
>
> I agree with everything you've said. I don't know if you caught my
> message about the Airflow Performance mounting ring having a very sharp
> edge which contacts the mounting plate in question. I suspect that
> radiusing that will help a lot.
>
> IMPORTANT: Everyone needs to understand that if the plate cracks enough,
> the engine could swallow chunks of it!
>
> A better solution would be a better system to interface the FAB snout to
> the cowl. If one uses the air seal rubberized fabric, it is almost
> impossible to get any real flexibility. I would think some sort of
> bellows like affair might be better. It seems the problem is the lack
> of fore/aft clearance which can be had in this area. When I initially
> fabricated my FAB, I cut the front end as short as I could while still
> retaining an alternate air door. Even with it being short, there still
> isn't a lot of distance from the cowl to it.
>
> I have often wondered if we had a video camera under the cowl, would we
> decide not to fly these things....
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
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Subject: | Re: Gascolator extensions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I bet you really meant "cowl" and not "canopy"...
With that in mind, you really don't need much clearance. The cowl is mounted
to the airframe, and doesn't move very much, especially near the firewall.
Your gascolator is
mounted to the firewall too, so it won't move.
Therefore, you shouldn't need a whole lot of clearance.
A few things to consider...
1) That extension tube on the gascolator is going to add one more thing to
the cowl attach/detach process. It isn't a really, really, nasty process,
but it ain't easy to do either, especially without scratching something.
2) The under-cowl gascolator is an excellent heat sink. A wonderful way to
put your engine a little bit closer to vapor lock on a hot day. On my
airplane, this is very evident when I stop somewhere for 20 minutes on a hot
day.
3) I've never seen any water or trash in my gascolator. If I had it to do
over again, I'd strongly consider omitting this device and installing a fuel
filter with a large minimum particle size.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Gascolator extensions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> I'm considering adding a short extension tube to the bottom of the
gascolator to so that the quick drain will end-up flush with the canopy
bottom. Is there any problem with this? My concern is with possible
movement of the canopy and how much clearance to allow, choice of material
for the tube and fittings.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
Message 42
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Subject: | [ Barry Bruns ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Barry Bruns <BBruns6831@aol.com>
Subject: Wing jig
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/BBruns6831@aol.com.11.03.2003/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
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