---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 11/03/03: 42 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:44 AM - Re: Cowl Plugs (Jim Sears) 2. 05:58 AM - Re: Cowl Plugs (Pat Perry) 3. 06:13 AM - Re: Cowl Plugs (Charles Rowbotham) 4. 06:23 AM - tailwheel links reply (Frazier, Vincent A) 5. 06:34 AM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (DWENSING@aol.com) 6. 07:13 AM - vent lines (bert murillo) 7. 07:13 AM - Re: Selling my RV6A (Lenleg@aol.com) 8. 07:15 AM - Lost log books (A20driver@aol.com) 9. 09:08 AM - Re: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting (Bill Dube) 10. 09:37 AM - Re: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting (Bruce Gray) 11. 09:40 AM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (LarryRobertHelming) 12. 09:54 AM - Instruments for Sale (Lenleg@aol.com) 13. 10:20 AM - Re: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting (Bill VonDane) 14. 10:38 AM - Re: vent lines (Paul Besing) 15. 11:07 AM - Re: Lost log books (Mike Robertson) 16. 11:16 AM - Microair T2000 Transponder problems (czechsix@juno.com) 17. 11:44 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (Dan Checkoway) 18. 11:53 AM - Re: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip (Dean Pichon) 19. 12:11 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (Dean Pichon) 20. 12:32 PM - Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com) 21. 12:33 PM - Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (Scott.Fink@microchip.com) 22. 01:26 PM - Re: Cowl Plugs (C. Rabaut) 23. 01:27 PM - EIS on during start (Andy Karmy) 24. 02:31 PM - Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (N13eer@aol.com) 25. 02:36 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Mike Robertson) 26. 02:46 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Mike Robertson) 27. 02:57 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Mike Robertson) 28. 03:03 PM - Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (dmedema@att.net) 29. 04:09 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (DWENSING@aol.com) 30. 06:01 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Dana Overall) 31. 07:05 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Sam Buchanan) 32. 07:16 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (Alex Peterson) 33. 07:16 PM - Re: vent lines (Bobby Hester) 34. 07:42 PM - Re: VS rib to spar gap (Paul Eastham) 35. 07:55 PM - Re: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip (Pete Waters) 36. 07:56 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (rob ray) 37. 08:05 PM - Gascolator extensions (hollandm) 38. 08:14 PM - Required Indicators for KNS-80 RNAV (Pete Waters) 39. 08:41 PM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (Jim Jewell) 40. 08:48 PM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (Jim Jewell) 41. 09:08 PM - Re: Gascolator extensions (Kyle Boatright) 42. 10:26 PM - [ Barry Bruns ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:44:11 AM PST US From: "Jim Sears" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Plugs --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" > Anyone know where I could buy cowl plugs for an RV6? > > I've had some mud dubbers at work inside the engine cowl. Hopefully cowl plugs will help. > You can pay lots of money and buy some fancy plugs; but, I'm cheap and found a cheaper approach than the ones I bought for my Cheetah. I went to Walmart and got two of their car washing sponges. They're sort of bow tie shaped and cost about two dollars for the two. I then punched a couple of holes in the center of each one and looped some ski rope through them. I made the rope long enough that I could put it up and over the spinner so that they could be slung out if I accidentally forgot to remove them before flight. From experience, it works. :-) Granted, this is not a fancy way of doing things; but, I've only had to buy two sets in four years. That's with my airplane sitting outside all the time and facing into the sun. If you hangar your airplane, they may last for years. I also cover the pitot with short piece of arrow shaft that's blocked at the end to keep dobbers out of there. I pull the carb heat fully to close the opening into the FAB to keep out birds. All of this tends to work pretty well for an airplane that sits on the ramp all year. I know you're questioning my leaving my RV outside. It's simple. I could afford a hangar; or, I could afford an airplane. Guess which I chose. :-) Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS EAA Tech Counselor. ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:58:05 AM PST US From: "Pat Perry" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Plugs --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" Go to a toy store and buy a pair of matching nerf footballs. They also sell miniature ones that fit perfectly into the carb air inlet. Pick up some nylon rope at a hardware store and tie all three together so they can't be accidentally left in on start-up. Pat Perry Dallas, PA RV-4 N154PK Flies great! >From: "Gabe A Ferrer" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Cowl Plugs >Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 09:43:03 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" > >Anyone know where I could buy cowl plugs for an RV6? > >I've had some mud dubbers at work inside the engine cowl. Hopefully cowl >plugs will help. > >Thanks > >Gabe A Ferrer >RV6 N2GX 83 hours >South Florida >Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net >Cell: 561 758 8894 >Night Phone: 561 622 0960 >Fax: 561 622 0960 > > Cheer a special someone with a fun Halloween eCard from American Greetings! Go to http://www.msn.americangreetings.com/index_msn.pd?source=msne134 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:13:42 AM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Plugs --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" All, Don't forget the fuel vents - used a couple of vinal fiber optic caps with a string thru each end and a Remove before flight streamer in the middle of the string. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A >From: "Jim Sears" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Plugs >Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 07:41:59 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" > > > > Anyone know where I could buy cowl plugs for an RV6? > > > > I've had some mud dubbers at work inside the engine cowl. Hopefully cowl >plugs will help. > > > >You can pay lots of money and buy some fancy plugs; but, I'm cheap and >found >a cheaper approach than the ones I bought for my Cheetah. I went to >Walmart >and got two of their car washing sponges. They're sort of bow tie shaped >and cost about two dollars for the two. I then punched a couple of holes >in >the center of each one and looped some ski rope through them. I made the >rope long enough that I could put it up and over the spinner so that they >could be slung out if I accidentally forgot to remove them before flight. >From experience, it works. :-) Granted, this is not a fancy way of doing >things; but, I've only had to buy two sets in four years. That's with my >airplane sitting outside all the time and facing into the sun. If you >hangar your airplane, they may last for years. I also cover the pitot with >short piece of arrow shaft that's blocked at the end to keep dobbers out of >there. I pull the carb heat fully to close the opening into the FAB to >keep >out birds. All of this tends to work pretty well for an airplane that sits >on the ramp all year. > >I know you're questioning my leaving my RV outside. It's simple. I could >afford a hangar; or, I could afford an airplane. Guess which I chose. :-) > >Jim Sears in KY >RV-6A N198JS >EAA Tech Counselor. > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:23:27 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: tailwheel links reply From: "Frazier, Vincent A" --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" SNIP I gave Van's Tech Support a copy of one of the e-mails about tailwheel chains coming loose. Tom Green kindly replied (see below). Anyone have some specific info for him? David Carter > Dave, no, but in all of the years, I have never seen it... it would be > interesting to know of an individual and how it happened... Tom SNIP My RV-4 did it. John's RV-6 did it too. And judging by the ones I've seen at Oshkosh that are in various degrees of spreading out, or are wrapped with safety wire, I don't think it's uncommon at all. How does the link get spread out? Who knows? I can only SPECULATE (caps indicate that I am SPECULATING here)that when those chains bounce around OCCASIONALLY the link in question gets a little sideways. Then you hit just the right rough spot and "TWANG"..... link spreads open or fails. As Dennis Miller says during his rants..."but that's just my opinion, I could be wrong." Vince in Indiana RV repeat offender since 1987 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:34:52 AM PST US From: DWENSING@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes: > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize or > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature. > > Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that will give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing epoxy does provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil Dale Ensing ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:13:42 AM PST US From: " bert murillo" Subject: RV-List: vent lines --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" Hi: I am ready to install wings, question is I found that the Vent line connection to the tank, is very difficult, first i put the line to far aft, and there is very little space, between connection from tank, which by the way faces to the leading edge with an 90o,fitting, I wish they would put a straight connection,, so I am thinking of a flexible line,, any comments as to what kind? Any other suggestions... Appreciate your input... Bert rv6a on wings Do Not archive Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:13:42 AM PST US From: Lenleg@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Selling my RV6A --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com Ed: You mean you can keep only one plane .... and you choose the Cessna ????? Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL 161 hrs > >It's with a great deal of regret I have to announce I am putting my RV6A > up > >for sale. Personal reasons are to blame (saving a marriage etc) N925RV was > >built by Fred Stucklen (I am the 2nd owner) and first flew in 1993. She is > >very well equiped - full IFR certified with Garmin 300XL GPS, Dual VORS, > >ADF, Auto pilot, electric trim and electric flaps and more. She is in the > >shop undergoing her annual right now. I just returned from flying her to & > >from the AOPA Expo in Philly. She flies like a dream and I hate to sell > her. > >Going price $75K . For more info contact me directly at > >eregensburg@triad.rr.com > >336-275-3009 > >Ed Regensburg > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:15:29 AM PST US From: A20driver@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Lost log books --> RV-List message posted by: A20driver@aol.com Have lost logbooks for my RV-3....Has anyone info on the procedure for replacement???? JLB, NJ- RV.3 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:59 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: RE: RV-List: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube At 08:54 PM 11/2/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" > >Do you have the lights in 28v? The LED position lights operate from 10 volts to 30 volts. ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:37:24 AM PST US From: "Bruce Gray" Subject: RE: RV-List: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" What about the landing lights, HID and regular? Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Dube Subject: RE: RV-List: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube At 08:54 PM 11/2/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" > >Do you have the lights in 28v? The LED position lights operate from 10 volts to 30 volts. = == == == == ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:07 AM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the finish painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it flow out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there is plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other primers. Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth large enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best way to go when you think about it seriously IMO. Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? > --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com > > In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, > top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes: > > > > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize or > > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature. > > > > > > Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that will > give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing epoxy does > provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil > Dale Ensing > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:54:42 AM PST US From: Lenleg@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Instruments for Sale --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com List: I have the following for sale: RC Allen Electric Attitude Indicator with 8 degree tilt 14V , unlighted RC Allen Electric DG 14V , unlighted These instruments list for $1895 each. They are still in my plane and are working perfectly. Make an offer. I will be posting to Ebay this week. I am switching to Dynon. I have been flying these instruments one year. Len Leggette RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 10:20:07 AM PST US From: Bill VonDane Subject: Re: RV-List: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane The strobe power supply will operate from 10 to 30 VDC as well... The halogen and HID lamps I currently sell operate up to 15 VDC... -Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Dube" Subject: RE: RV-List: Info on the talked about "LED" lighting --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube At 08:54 PM 11/2/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" > >Do you have the lights in 28v? The LED position lights operate from 10 volts to 30 volts. ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:38:39 AM PST US From: "Paul Besing" Subject: Re: RV-List: vent lines --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" I had the same issue, and used flexible line here as well. Braided steel Earls line from WM Engineering (in the yeller pages). I think it was #6 size perform o flex, with 90 degree AN fittings on each end. Put in a bulkhead in the fuselage, and you will be all set. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold RV-10 Soon http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software http://www.kitlog.com ----- Original Message ----- From: " bert murillo" Subject: RV-List: vent lines > --> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" > > Hi: > > I am ready to install wings, question is I found that > the Vent line connection to the tank, is very difficult, > first i put the line to far aft, and there is very > little space, between connection from tank, which by > the way faces to the leading edge with an 90o,fitting, > I wish they would put a straight connection,, so > I am thinking of a flexible line,, any comments > as to what kind? Any other suggestions... > > Appreciate your input... > > Bert > > rv6a > > on wings > > Do Not archive > > Sign up for Internet Service under $10 dollars a month, at http://isp.BlueLight.com > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 11:07:21 AM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Lost log books --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Pbviously you need new logboos. You will need to reconstruct, to the best of your knowledge, the times for everything. Then you will need to make an entry to the effect that the prior leogbooks were lost. Then a new condition inspection will need to be done unless you still have a copy of the inspection checklist you used and it is dated. Then you will need to get the transponder and encoder checks redone. I think that is about it. Mike Robertson >From: A20driver@aol.com >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Lost log books >Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2003 10:15:02 EST > >--> RV-List message posted by: A20driver@aol.com > >Have lost logbooks for my RV-3....Has anyone info on the procedure for >replacement???? JLB, NJ- RV.3 > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 11:16:04 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems From: czechsix@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com Guys, A friend of mine, Alan Kritzman, has had problems with his Microair T2000 tranponder installed in his RV-8, and since I have the same unit but am not flying yet, I'm posting this to ask if anyone else has had the same trouble. The symptoms are very repeatable: whenever taking off out of a controlled field with radar service, the controllers always say they are not picking up the transponder. After the aircraft is about 5 miles from the airport, the power is cycled using the transponders on/off button and then the tower picks up the signal normally. If the flight originates from a nearby uncontrolled field, the controllers pick the the transponder normally when approaching the towered airport without having to cycle power on the unit. The coax has been replaced and the antenna replaced and moved in attempts to fix the problem. Then Alan took his transponder out and sent it back to Microair in Australia for repairs, and while it was gone, he installed my identical transponder in his airplane with the same problem. A few days ago he got a brand new and different unit back from Microair and it too exhibits the same problem. Anybody else flying out of Class C or other facility with radar that has experienced this problem? Or, any idea what could cause it in terms of the installation as opposed to the transponder itself? Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D finishing... ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 11:44:03 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Where's the antenna located? Think it could have something to do with shadowing? Figure if it only happens on departure (when the plane is generally always facing *away* from the facility), and only at low altitude, sounds like antenna shadowing to me...but that's just a wild ass guess from somebody who knows very little about this stuff. do not archive (but archive the reply if relevant) )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: AeroElectric-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems > --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > > > Guys, > > A friend of mine, Alan Kritzman, has had problems with his Microair T2000 tranponder installed in his RV-8, and since I have the same unit but am not flying yet, I'm posting this to ask if anyone else has had the same trouble. > > The symptoms are very repeatable: whenever taking off out of a controlled field with radar service, the controllers always say they are not picking up the transponder. After the aircraft is about 5 miles from the airport, the power is cycled using the transponders on/off button and then the tower picks up the signal normally. If the flight originates from a nearby uncontrolled field, the controllers pick the the transponder normally when approaching the towered airport without having to cycle power on the unit. The coax has been replaced and the antenna replaced and moved in attempts to fix the problem. Then Alan took his transponder out and sent it back to Microair in Australia for repairs, and while it was gone, he installed my identical transponder in his airplane with the same problem. A few days ago he got a brand new and different unit back from Microair and it too exhibits the same problem. > > Anybody else flying out of Class C or other facility with radar that has experienced this problem? Or, any idea what could cause it in terms of the installation as opposed to the transponder itself? > > Thanks, > > --Mark Navratil > Cedar Rapids, Iowa > RV-8A N2D finishing... > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 11:53:59 AM PST US From: "Dean Pichon" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" I did not wire the fuel pump through my Infinity Aerospace grip, but did wire the flaps through it. For this arrangement, I used a relay to protect the small switch (and wires) in the grip. I believe the current draw of a high pressure fuel pump would require a similar arrangement. When I wired my grip, I spoke with JD (at Infinity Aerospace) and received good advice from him - you may wish to do the same. Good luck, Dean RV-4, 160 hrs Worcester, MA >From: dag adamson >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip >Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 11:22:24 -0800 (PST) > >--> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson > >All- > >I am thinking of taking advantage of all those >switches in the Infinity Aerospace grip. > >Has anyone run a high pressure fuel pump and the >lights through the grip? > >The wires look like 20/22 gauge wire - did you put a >relay in between the switch and the rest of the >circuit (fuse/circuit breaker etc.)? > >Thanks >Dag > >===== >***************** >Dag Adamson >617 513 1182 >Cambridge, MA >Grand Junction, CO >***************** > >__________________________________ > > Surf and talk on the phone at the same time with broadband Internet access. Get high-speed for as low as $29.95/month (depending on the local service providers in your area). https://broadband.msn.com ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 12:11:15 PM PST US From: "Dean Pichon" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" At 150hrs, I found my plate was severely cracked. The plate in my -4 was the anodized version supplied with the fuel injection system purchased from Airflow Performance. I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance about the failure. He told me it was the first he had heard of this part failing and asked me to send him the plate (for which he sent me a new one) for analysis. I have not since spoken with Don, but I may give him a call to let him know many others have experienced similar failures. I believe failure is caused by vibrations due to relative motion between the cowl and the engine. I have a relatively "stiff" connection between the FAB and the cowl and am concerned it may crack again. I don't believe making the plate stiffer will solve the problem. The movement of the engine (especially during starting/stopping) will not be in any way diminished by stiffening the FAB plate. If we assume the magnitude of the deflection to remain constant, either the (stiffened) plate will fail again, or the plate will transfer this larger load to a more expensive structure (cowl?), or both. Regards, Dean RV-4 Worcester, MA >From: "Alex Peterson" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate >Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2003 22:56:22 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > >During an oil change today, I noticed a bit more compliance when I moved >the forward end of the FAB up and down. Upon further inspection, I >found that the elliptical plate which mounts to the carb (or in my case, >the fuel servo) had cracked. The aft two mounting bolts were >effectively not doing anything anymore, since the cracks isolated that >area from the remainder. > >I actually had an extra one of these plates, as one came with the FAB >kit from Van's, while another one came with the Airflow Performance >system. Of course, I carved the extra one up for some other purpose >long ago. Probably made a bracket for something or another from it. > >One lesson here is that it pays to inspect things under the cowl at >every oil change. > >Alex Peterson >Maple Grove, MN >RV6-A N66AP 397 hours >www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson > > Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has exceeded ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:32:04 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems From: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com 11/03/2003 01:56:29 PM --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com It sound like the antenna is in ground resonance on the ground. Has he replaced the belly antenna? You might also have a local FBO check the antenna signal strength with their x-ponder check equipment. Also while your at it you could have your friend get his pitot static system checked at the FBO to see if his airspeed altitude numbers are accurate. I am not familiar with the Microair x-ponder but does it have standby mode? And if so is your friend placing the switch in the "on" position prior to takeoff? I have worked on a lot of old bendix/king x-ponders where they would not work on the ground but would work fine in the air. I used to have an instructor that would not let me place the switch in the on position untill after takeoff just for the above mentioned reason. For what it's worth. do not archive Glenn Williams ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 12:33:29 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems From: Scott.Fink@microchip.com 11/03/2003 01:33:23 PM, Serialize complete at 11/03/2003 01:33:23 PM --> RV-List message posted by: Scott.Fink@Microchip.com The antenna is probably being blanked by the airframe when flying away from the controlled field. Is your friend cycleing the power after leveling off after 5 miles then asking if they can see him? If so, have him level off and not cycle the power and see if they can see him. This theory makes sense approaching the controlled field from the uncontrolled since the antenna will not be blanked. Scott czechsix@juno.com Sent by: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com 11/03/2003 12:15 PM Please respond to rv-list To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com cc: Subject: RV-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems --> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com Guys, A friend of mine, Alan Kritzman, has had problems with his Microair T2000 tranponder installed in his RV-8, and since I have the same unit but am not flying yet, I'm posting this to ask if anyone else has had the same trouble. The symptoms are very repeatable: whenever taking off out of a controlled field with radar service, the controllers always say they are not picking up the transponder. After the aircraft is about 5 miles from the airport, the power is cycled using the transponders on/off button and then the tower picks up the signal normally. If the flight originates from a nearby uncontrolled field, the controllers pick the the transponder normally when approaching the towered airport without having to cycle power on the unit. The coax has been replaced and the antenna replaced and moved in attempts to fix the problem. Then Alan took his transponder out and sent it back to Microair in Australia for repairs, and while it was gone, he installed my identical transponder in his airplane with the same problem. A few days ago he got a brand new and different unit back from Microair and it too exhibits the same problem. Anybody else flying out of Class C or other facility with radar that has experienced this problem? Or, any idea what could cause it in terms of the installation as opposed to the transponder itself? Thanks, --Mark Navratil Cedar Rapids, Iowa RV-8A N2D finishing... ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 01:26:11 PM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Plugs --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Pat, Great minds think alike. I've got a small Nerf football stuffed into my intake and a rope (with a red "Remove Before Flight" flag) attached to my prop. If you forget to remove it, the first crank tosses the football & a flag on the play. Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Pat Perry Subject: Re: RV-List: Cowl Plugs > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Perry" > > Go to a toy store and buy a pair of matching nerf footballs. They also sell > miniature ones that fit perfectly into the carb air inlet. Pick up some > nylon rope at a hardware store and tie all three together so they can't be > accidentally left in on start-up. > > > Pat Perry > Dallas, PA > RV-4 N154PK Flies great! > > > >From: "Gabe A Ferrer" > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com > >To: > >Subject: RV-List: Cowl Plugs > >Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 09:43:03 -0500 > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" > > > >Anyone know where I could buy cowl plugs for an RV6? > > > >I've had some mud dubbers at work inside the engine cowl. Hopefully cowl > >plugs will help. > > > >Thanks > > > >Gabe A Ferrer > >RV6 N2GX 83 hours > >South Florida > >Email: ferrergm@bellsouth.net > >Cell: 561 758 8894 > >Night Phone: 561 622 0960 > >Fax: 561 622 0960 > > > > > > Cheer a special someone with a fun Halloween eCard from American Greetings! > Go to http://www.msn.americangreetings.com/index_msn.pd?source=msne134 > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 01:27:52 PM PST US From: "Andy Karmy" Subject: RV-List: EIS on during start --> RV-List message posted by: "Andy Karmy" Ok, the question seems to be the subject of much speculation based upon the original post, which was a mis-wire or connection issue, not a powerup issue at all. The Grand Rapids EIS is very happy being on during start. I have mine on the main electrical bus and it comes on with the master. Upon start it dims just a bit (it's good down to 5V) and suffers no ill effects. I instantly have a flashing zero oil pressure reading and then slowly watch it rise until it's over the min threshold and the screen returns to my default startup page. I am very happy with the company and the product! - Andy Karmy RV9a Seattle WA 145hrs TT ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 02:31:20 PM PST US From: N13eer@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com Scott, I don't think it is a blanking issue, I have departed on runway 09 and circuled to the west with the same result as climbing straight out. ATC does not get anything until I cycle power. I have also relocated the antenna, now there is nothing within 24 inches of the transponder antenna. Thanks Alan Kritzman In a message dated 12/2/2003 12:39:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, Scott.Fink@microchip.com writes: >--> RV-List message posted by: Scott.Fink@Microchip.com > >The antenna is probably being blanked by the airframe when flying away >from the controlled field. Is your friend cycleing the power after >leveling off after 5 miles then asking if they can see him? If so, have >him level off and not cycle the power and see if they can see him. > >This theory makes sense approaching the controlled field from the >uncontrolled since the antenna will not be blanked. > >Scott > > >czechsix@juno.com >Sent by: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >11/03/2003 12:15 PM >Please respond to rv-list > > > To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com > cc: > Subject: RV-List: Microair T2000 Transponder problems > > >--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com > > >Guys, > >A friend of mine, Alan Kritzman, has had problems with his Microair T2000 >tranponder installed in his RV-8, and since I have the same unit but am >not flying yet, I'm posting this to ask if anyone else has had the same >trouble. > >The symptoms are very repeatable: whenever taking off out of a controlled >field with radar service, the controllers always say they are not picking >up the transponder. After the aircraft is about 5 miles from the airport, >the power is cycled using the transponders on/off button and then the >tower picks up the signal normally. If the flight originates from a >nearby uncontrolled field, the controllers pick the the transponder >normally when approaching the towered airport without having to cycle >power on the unit. The coax has been replaced and the antenna replaced >and moved in attempts to fix the problem. Then Alan took his transponder >out and sent it back to Microair in Australia for repairs, and while it >was gone, he installed my identical transponder in his airplane with the >same problem. A few days ago he got a brand new and different unit back >from Microair and it too exhibits the same problem. > >Anybody else flying out of Class C or other facility with radar that has >experienced this problem? Or, any idea what could cause it in terms of >the installation as opposed to the transponder itself? > >Thanks, > >--Mark Navratil >Cedar Rapids, Iowa >RV-8A N2D finishing... > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 02:36:02 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Sam, Sorry it took me so long to reply but I wanted to check on something to amek sure I was giving you the right info. There is NO requirement to have or use a VOR for IFR enroute. The reg says that you will have navigation equipment compatible with the ground facilities to be used. If you don't use any ground facilities then there is no need for ground based navigational equipment. An enroute GPS may be the only thing you use for IFR enroute. Now if you do use a VOR for enroute navigation then the GPS can be of any make/model that you want. Mike Robertson >From: Sam Buchanan >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's >Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 17:05:38 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan > >Kevin Horton wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > > > > But practically speaking, this means the IFR GPS must be TSO'd. > > > > If the box was capable of meeting the requirements of the TSO, the > > manufacturer would sell it as TSO'd so he had access to the type > > certificated aircraft market. And I have difficulty believing a > > hobbyist will cobble together a homebuilt GPS that meets all the TSO > > requirements. > > > > Kevin Horton > > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > >> > >>Kevin, > >> > >>What you say is true. GPS must MEET the requirements of the TSO for IFR >use > >>but do not have to BE TSO'd. > >> > >>Mike > >> > > >We're talking about GPS for approaches, not enroute, right? And doesn't >the enroute GPS have to be a "supplement" (FAA Advisory Circular 20-138) >to onboard navigational equipment that is ground based (VOR)? And since >the primary enroute navigation is ground based, the enroute GPS doesn't >have to meet the requirements of a TSO, right? > >In other words, as I understand it, a handheld GPS is fine for enroute >IFR ops as long as an operational VOR receiver (handheld???) is in the >plane. The TSO-equivalent GPS is required for approaches. > >We are not discussing what is prudent, only what is literally required >by the FARs. > >Sam Buchanan > > Never get a busy signal because you are always connected with high-speed Internet access. Click here to comparison-shop providers. https://broadband.msn.com ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 02:46:29 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" See answers enbedded below. Mike Robertson >From: Charlie & Tupper England >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) >Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 18:38:33 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England > > >This begs questions of much more practical significance that >constructing my own GPS or transponder. > >Can I, as the builder, legally demonstrate compliance of the >*installation* of an IFR GPS in my plane? YES > >Can I, as the builder, legally calibrate the static system/altimeter >(manometers are relatively easy to construct) & verify that the mode C >is correctly reporting altitude? Look at CFR 91.411(b) and 413(c) for your answers here. If you are not an airframe mechanic then you, as the builder, may not conduct the encoder and transponder checks. If you have an airfrasme mechanics certificate then you can do the encoder checks but not the tranponder. A repair station can do the encoder and must do the tranponder. > >Next, addressing the issue of 'navigational equipment appropriate to >the ground facilities to be used'. Aren't there now (or there soon will >be) GPS approaches to airports that have no other instrument approach? >If that is correct, do you need ADF or VOR to fly an approach there? If >not, then part B follows: If you are flying a GPS approach into an >airport that has both GPS & other approaches, you aren't using 'ground >facilities'. Do you still need ADF and/or VOR to fly that approach? > Here you may want to get into the AIMS. You can use an IFR approved enroute GPS NOW and not have any ground based nav equipment. You can use approach approved GPS for non-precision GPS approaches now and can use it to identify ADF and intersection fixes now. The only caviat is that for precision approaches that require DME you must still have a DME receiver on board. >Thanks, > >Charlie > Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has exceeded ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 02:57:10 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: RE: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" John, Please don't take this a rude but it means exactly what it says. Once the FAA buys off your plane, everything on it, for that aircraft ONLY, is approved. For example, what if you had Hooker Harness seatbelts. They are not an approved seatbelt. They are definitely better that most of the approved belts out there IMHO. But once the DAR signs off the inspection and issues the airworthiness certificate the belts become "approved" for use on that aircraft. The same goes for lights. As far as the second point, the inspector/DAR issues Operating Limitations at the time of certification. He has the option of limiting the aircraft to Day VFR use only, or of giving the authorization for night and/or IFR operation. You will notice that I did not say anything about IFR certification as there is none needed. He just has to note that the aircraft is equipped for more than Day VFR and issue the appropriate operating limitation. The pilot is responsible to ensure the aircraft is properly equipped for night and/or IFR operations in accordance with the requirements of CFR 91.205. Mike Robertson >From: "John Brick" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's >Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2003 10:37:48 -0800 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Brick" > > >On Wed Oct 29 12:01:27 2003, Mike Robertson wrote : > >[ ... snip ... ] > > >For amateur built aircraft, equipment installed on > >the aircraft at certification is considered FAA approved. > >Mike, > >I have not seen this statement before. Where does it come from? What does >it >really mean? > >It seems like the operating limitations put the burden on the operator for >anything beyond day / vfr. So why should the DAR get concerned about ifr >equipment, homemade or otherwise. > >We are not asking the DAR for ifr certification, so why would the subject >even come up? > >Thanks, > >jb > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 03:03:05 PM PST US From: dmedema@att.net Subject: RV-List: Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net Could it possibly be the blind encoder is not warmed up and not transmitting data to the xpndr? My blind encoder takes a number of minutes before it will start sending data to the xpndr, and thus the xpndr will not report an altitude. In my case the transponder is a Garmin GTX327 and the blind encoder is an ACK A-30. ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 04:09:52 PM PST US From: DWENSING@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com In a message dated 11/2/03 4:07:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, chrisjgood@lycos.com writes: > . I made a new plate from .062 aluminimum & added a steel brace dropping > down from one of the front crank case bolts to the front bolt attaching the > air box to the plate. This stiffens it up dramatically, avoiding motion > transmitted fom the flexible air intake coupling. I'm sorry I can't remember which > lister suggested this method, but it was not my idea. Hi Chris, I think it was Randall Henderson. He has a picture of his on his web page. Dale Ensing ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 06:01:54 PM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" You can use approach approved GPS for non-precision GPS approaches now and can use it to identify ADF and intersection fixes now. The only caviat is that for precision approaches that require DME you must still have a DME receiver on board. Mike, I would like to differ with you on the above point. It is my understanding from conversations with various individuals of knowledge and a couple different companies supplying approach certified GPS, as long as the GPS database is current and identifies within that database the DME point the GPS is a substitute for DME. You the pilot cannot load a waypoint into the system and use that for the DME point even if you know the exact coordinates of such. Certainly correct me if I am wrong. Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE! ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 07:05:51 PM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan Mike Robertson wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > > Sam, > > Sorry it took me so long to reply but I wanted to check on something to amek > sure I was giving you the right info. > > There is NO requirement to have or use a VOR for IFR enroute. The reg says > that you will have navigation equipment compatible with the ground > facilities to be used. If you don't use any ground facilities then there is > no need for ground based navigational equipment. An enroute GPS may be the > only thing you use for IFR enroute. > > Now if you do use a VOR for enroute navigation then the GPS can be of any > make/model that you want. > > Mike Robertson Thanks for the follow up, Mike. Here is the quote from Advisory Circular 138-20 that the EAA is using in their opinion about GPS in IFR ops: Paragraph 4, Background, subparagraph g: (3) IFR Navigation Equipment. GPS equipment for IFR navigation is for use as a supplemental navigation system. The installation of GPS equipment does not affect the requirement for a primary means of navigation appropriate to the route intended to be flown. Within the contiguous United States, Alaska, Hawaii, and surrounding coastal waters, this requirement can be met with an operational, independent VOR receiver. Additional navigation equipment redundancy may be required for operation in oceanic and remote airspace. Are experimental aircraft subject to the requirements of the AC20-138? Or, is the AC *only* advisory, not regulatory, in scope? Or, has this AC been superseded by something newer? Thanks in advance for your reply, Sam Buchanan =============== ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 07:16:20 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > At 150hrs, I found my plate was severely cracked. The plate > in my -4 was > the anodized version supplied with the fuel injection system > purchased from > Airflow Performance. I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance > about the > failure. He told me it was the first he had heard of this > part failing and > asked me to send him the plate (for which he sent me a new one) for > analysis. I have not since spoken with Don, but I may give > him a call to > let him know many others have experienced similar failures. > > I believe failure is caused by vibrations due to relative > motion between the > cowl and the engine. I have a relatively "stiff" connection > between the FAB > and the cowl and am concerned it may crack again. I don't > believe making > the plate stiffer will solve the problem. The movement of the engine > (especially during starting/stopping) will not be in any way > diminished by > stiffening the FAB plate. If we assume the magnitude of the > deflection to > remain constant, either the (stiffened) plate will fail > again, or the plate > will transfer this larger load to a more expensive structure > (cowl?), or > both. > > Regards, > > Dean > RV-4 > Worcester, MA Dean, I agree with everything you've said. I don't know if you caught my message about the Airflow Performance mounting ring having a very sharp edge which contacts the mounting plate in question. I suspect that radiusing that will help a lot. IMPORTANT: Everyone needs to understand that if the plate cracks enough, the engine could swallow chunks of it! A better solution would be a better system to interface the FAB snout to the cowl. If one uses the air seal rubberized fabric, it is almost impossible to get any real flexibility. I would think some sort of bellows like affair might be better. It seems the problem is the lack of fore/aft clearance which can be had in this area. When I initially fabricated my FAB, I cut the front end as short as I could while still retaining an alternate air door. Even with it being short, there still isn't a lot of distance from the cowl to it. I have often wondered if we had a video camera under the cowl, would we decide not to fly these things.... Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 397 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 07:16:20 PM PST US From: Bobby Hester Subject: Re: RV-List: vent lines --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester bert murillo wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: " bert murillo" > >Hi: > > I am ready to install wings, question is I found that >the Vent line connection to the tank, is very difficult, >first i put the line to far aft, and there is very >little space, between connection from tank, which by >the way faces to the leading edge with an 90o,fitting, >I wish they would put a straight connection,, so > I am thinking of a flexible line,, any comments >as to what kind? Any other suggestions... > >Appreciate your input... > >Bert > >rv6a > >on wings > > > I thought it was going to be hard untill I got my spring bender and went at it. It wasn't bad at all! http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FuseAssyPg2.htm -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 07:42:14 PM PST US From: Paul Eastham Subject: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham Followup on what I wrote a while ago: > I have been trying to rivet my VS ribs to the forward spar for a while now. > (RV-9, but same VS in 7 and 8) After some learning curve on the rivet gun, > my only remaining problem is that a gap forms between the rib and spar as I > drive the rivet. Gus at Van's told me that gaps "are not good" and to drill out and clamp better, or use pop rivets if I cannot eliminate the gap. I've tried clamping everywhere possible but still have gaps forming. Now I find this old post from Scott at Vans: http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=46098614?KEYS=spar_&_rib_&_gap?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=108?SERIAL=18500310051?SHOWBUTTONS=YES Which seems to say that small gaps are ok (on the HS) if the parts are tight before riveting, which they have been. My gaps are small too (.01 - .02"? Can't find a feeler gauge) After lots of experimenting one of the causes that seems impossible to eliminate here is that you cannot clamp both sides of the flange surrounding some of the rivets. This seems to allow enough slack to allow the flange to lift up as the shop head is formed. After at least 10 drilled rivets, 2 damaged holes (about to receive AD5 rivets), several nicks on my spar, countless test strips to try to identify the problem, and a *huge* delay, I guess I will push ahead gaps and all. Anyone want to argue for the pop rivet approach? I wish I knew how common this problem is because I sure don't see anyone else using pop rivets here...did anyone else hold their spar up to the light and not see a gap? Just barely hanging on, Paul __________________________________ http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 07:55:42 PM PST US From: Pete Waters Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip --> RV-List message posted by: Pete Waters Be careful running your flaps off a stick-mounted switch. On the RV-4 I bought, the flaps switch was on the top of the stick. On a recent flight I inadvertently deployed the flaps to 30% and flew around for half an hour or so at 40 KIAS above flap speed. Ow. Fortunately, the guys at Van's say this isn't a problem at only 30% flaps. My point is, be cautious about putting every control on the stick grip. Some control are not MEANT to be easy to get to. Pedro rmickey@ix.netcom.com wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: rmickey@ix.netcom.com Yes, you need to use relays. I run my flaps through the grip. My Infinity grip set up... PTT---Trigger Alieron/elevator trim hat Flaps down and up with limit switch for automatic shut off Comm1 flip/flp and playback for my SL15 TruTrack Control Wheel Autopilot Switch Previous/next screens on my GRT engine monitor Ross Mickey RV6A N9PT Inspection on Thursday -----Original Message----- From: dag adamson Subject: RV-List: Fuel Pump and Lights - Inifinity Aerospace grip --> RV-List message posted by: dag adamson All- I am thinking of taking advantage of all those switches in the Infinity Aerospace grip. Has anyone run a high pressure fuel pump and the lights through the grip? The wires look like 20/22 gauge wire - did you put a relay in between the switch and the rest of the circuit (fuse/circuit breaker etc.)? Dag --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 07:56:25 PM PST US From: rob ray Subject: RE: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray Another suggestion would be to eliminate the FAB altogether in lieu of a "tunnel ram". I use unfiltered ram air above 1000' AGL via an aluminum tube I fabricated that attaches to the base of the carb and fits flush against the lip of the scoop inlet. I have a flapper valve with a 2" duct behind it 4" down the tube. With the flapper closed, inlet air is ducted through a remote K&N filter. On the ground I close the valve and open it after safely airborne. I gain about 50 RPM and 1"MP at sea level and almost 2" at 5000'. There is plenty of room in the "scoop" for the tunnel and I have never had a problem in 1100 hours. Rob Ray Alex Peterson wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > At 150hrs, I found my plate was severely cracked. The plate > in my -4 was > the anodized version supplied with the fuel injection system > purchased from > Airflow Performance. I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance > about the > failure. He told me it was the first he had heard of this > part failing and > asked me to send him the plate (for which he sent me a new one) for > analysis. I have not since spoken with Don, but I may give > him a call to > let him know many others have experienced similar failures. > > I believe failure is caused by vibrations due to relative > motion between the > cowl and the engine. I have a relatively "stiff" connection > between the FAB > and the cowl and am concerned it may crack again. I don't > believe making > the plate stiffer will solve the problem. The movement of the engine > (especially during starting/stopping) will not be in any way > diminished by > stiffening the FAB plate. If we assume the magnitude of the > deflection to > remain constant, either the (stiffened) plate will fail > again, or the plate > will transfer this larger load to a more expensive structure > (cowl?), or > both. > > Regards, > > Dean > RV-4 > Worcester, MA Dean, I agree with everything you've said. I don't know if you caught my message about the Airflow Performance mounting ring having a very sharp edge which contacts the mounting plate in question. I suspect that radiusing that will help a lot. IMPORTANT: Everyone needs to understand that if the plate cracks enough, the engine could swallow chunks of it! A better solution would be a better system to interface the FAB snout to the cowl. If one uses the air seal rubberized fabric, it is almost impossible to get any real flexibility. I would think some sort of bellows like affair might be better. It seems the problem is the lack of fore/aft clearance which can be had in this area. When I initially fabricated my FAB, I cut the front end as short as I could while still retaining an alternate air door. Even with it being short, there still isn't a lot of distance from the cowl to it. I have often wondered if we had a video camera under the cowl, would we decide not to fly these things.... Alex Peterson Maple Grove, MN RV6-A N66AP 397 hours www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 08:05:55 PM PST US From: "hollandm" Subject: RV-List: Gascolator extensions --> RV-List message posted by: "hollandm" I'm considering adding a short extension tube to the bottom of the gascolator to so that the quick drain will end-up flush with the canopy bottom. Is there any problem with this? My concern is with possible movement of the canopy and how much clearance to allow, choice of material for the tube and fittings. Thanks ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 08:14:38 PM PST US From: Pete Waters Subject: RV-List: Required Indicators for KNS-80 RNAV --> RV-List message posted by: Pete Waters All, Does anybody know if a KI-209 VOR/ILS CDI indicator can be used with a Collins KNS-80 RNAV? Normally, the KNS-80 uses a KI-206 (as the KX-155 normally uses the KI-209 or KI-208). I believe the difference is that the KI-206 has no internal resolver (relying instead on the KNS-80's internal resolver), while the KI-209 does. That seem to imply that you could hook up the KNS-80 to the KI-209 and just use one of the resolvers, leaving the other disconnected. Maybe. Anybody know? Pedro --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 08:41:56 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hello Paul, It's really hard to be sure but from your description it sounds like you could be guilty of being too fussy. Now keep in mind that no other builder before you fell pray to such a malady. Shame on you! tsk tsk.(;-}! If the you put he framework inside the skin and it all clekos together with good hole alignment chances are you will be good to go. You might consider leaving it and moving on for a while. With the added wisdom that comes from making and fixing mistreakes elsewhere you can come back to it troubleshoot and flash it together later, no problem. Happy building, Jim (I never make mistreaks) Jewell in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Eastham" Subject: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham > > Followup on what I wrote a while ago: > > > I have been trying to rivet my VS ribs to the forward spar for a while now. > > (RV-9, but same VS in 7 and 8) After some learning curve on the rivet gun, > > my only remaining problem is that a gap forms between the rib and spar as I > > drive the rivet. > > Gus at Van's told me that gaps "are not good" and to drill out and clamp > better, or use pop rivets if I cannot eliminate the gap. I've tried clamping > everywhere possible but still have gaps forming. Now I find this old post from > Scott at Vans: > > http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=46098614?KEYS=spar_&_rib_&_gap?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=108?SERIAL=18500310051?SHOWBUTTONS=YES > > Which seems to say that small gaps are ok (on the HS) if the parts are tight > before riveting, which they have been. My gaps are small too (.01 - .02"? > Can't find a feeler gauge) > > After lots of experimenting one of the causes that seems impossible to > eliminate here is that you cannot clamp both sides of the flange surrounding > some of the rivets. This seems to allow enough slack to allow the flange to > lift up as the shop head is formed. > > After at least 10 drilled rivets, 2 damaged holes (about to receive AD5 > rivets), several nicks on my spar, countless test strips to try to identify the > problem, and a *huge* delay, I guess I will push ahead gaps and all. Anyone > want to argue for the pop rivet approach? I wish I knew how common this > problem is because I sure don't see anyone else using pop rivets here...did > anyone else hold their spar up to the light and not see a gap? > > Just barely hanging on, > Paul > > > __________________________________ > http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree > > ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 08:48:52 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hi Rob, hows about some pictures sometime? Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "rob ray" Subject: RE: RV-List: Cracked FAB mounting plate > --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray > > Another suggestion would be to eliminate the FAB altogether in lieu of a "tunnel ram". I use unfiltered ram air above 1000' AGL via an aluminum tube I fabricated that attaches to the base of the carb and fits flush against the lip of the scoop inlet. I have a flapper valve with a 2" duct behind it 4" down the tube. With the flapper closed, inlet air is ducted through a remote K&N filter. On the ground I close the valve and open it after safely airborne. I gain about 50 RPM and 1"MP at sea level and almost 2" at 5000'. There is plenty of room in the "scoop" for the tunnel and I have never had a problem in 1100 hours. > > Rob Ray > > > Alex Peterson wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > > > > > > At 150hrs, I found my plate was severely cracked. The plate > > in my -4 was > > the anodized version supplied with the fuel injection system > > purchased from > > Airflow Performance. I spoke with Don at Airflow Performance > > about the > > failure. He told me it was the first he had heard of this > > part failing and > > asked me to send him the plate (for which he sent me a new one) for > > analysis. I have not since spoken with Don, but I may give > > him a call to > > let him know many others have experienced similar failures. > > > > I believe failure is caused by vibrations due to relative > > motion between the > > cowl and the engine. I have a relatively "stiff" connection > > between the FAB > > and the cowl and am concerned it may crack again. I don't > > believe making > > the plate stiffer will solve the problem. The movement of the engine > > (especially during starting/stopping) will not be in any way > > diminished by > > stiffening the FAB plate. If we assume the magnitude of the > > deflection to > > remain constant, either the (stiffened) plate will fail > > again, or the plate > > will transfer this larger load to a more expensive structure > > (cowl?), or > > both. > > > > Regards, > > > > Dean > > RV-4 > > Worcester, MA > > Dean, > > I agree with everything you've said. I don't know if you caught my > message about the Airflow Performance mounting ring having a very sharp > edge which contacts the mounting plate in question. I suspect that > radiusing that will help a lot. > > IMPORTANT: Everyone needs to understand that if the plate cracks enough, > the engine could swallow chunks of it! > > A better solution would be a better system to interface the FAB snout to > the cowl. If one uses the air seal rubberized fabric, it is almost > impossible to get any real flexibility. I would think some sort of > bellows like affair might be better. It seems the problem is the lack > of fore/aft clearance which can be had in this area. When I initially > fabricated my FAB, I cut the front end as short as I could while still > retaining an alternate air door. Even with it being short, there still > isn't a lot of distance from the cowl to it. > > I have often wondered if we had a video camera under the cowl, would we > decide not to fly these things.... > > Alex Peterson > Maple Grove, MN > RV6-A N66AP 397 hours > www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson > > > --------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 09:08:10 PM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: Gascolator extensions --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" I bet you really meant "cowl" and not "canopy"... With that in mind, you really don't need much clearance. The cowl is mounted to the airframe, and doesn't move very much, especially near the firewall. Your gascolator is mounted to the firewall too, so it won't move. Therefore, you shouldn't need a whole lot of clearance. A few things to consider... 1) That extension tube on the gascolator is going to add one more thing to the cowl attach/detach process. It isn't a really, really, nasty process, but it ain't easy to do either, especially without scratching something. 2) The under-cowl gascolator is an excellent heat sink. A wonderful way to put your engine a little bit closer to vapor lock on a hot day. On my airplane, this is very evident when I stop somewhere for 20 minutes on a hot day. 3) I've never seen any water or trash in my gascolator. If I had it to do over again, I'd strongly consider omitting this device and installing a fuel filter with a large minimum particle size. KB ----- Original Message ----- From: "hollandm" Subject: RV-List: Gascolator extensions > --> RV-List message posted by: "hollandm" > > I'm considering adding a short extension tube to the bottom of the gascolator to so that the quick drain will end-up flush with the canopy bottom. Is there any problem with this? My concern is with possible movement of the canopy and how much clearance to allow, choice of material for the tube and fittings. > > > Thanks > > ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 10:26:09 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: [ Barry Bruns ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! From: Email List Photo Shares --> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Barry Bruns Subject: Wing jig http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/BBruns6831@aol.com.11.03.2003/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures@matronics.com