Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:08 AM - Oil cooler hose/fitting issues: RESOLVED (Dan Checkoway)
2. 05:17 AM - Re: Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems (N13eer@aol.com)
3. 05:38 AM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 05:55 AM - Fred Kunkle (David E. Nelson)
5. 06:35 AM - Re: Fred Kunkle (Fred Kunkel)
6. 07:16 AM - Electronic Ignition (Paul Brown)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (Bill Dube)
8. 08:52 AM - Re: Electronic Ignition (Brian Denk)
9. 08:57 AM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
10. 09:25 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Mike Robertson)
11. 09:47 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Mike Robertson)
12. 09:57 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Mike Robertson)
13. 10:00 AM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (Paul Eastham)
14. 10:07 AM - Fuel Vent Icing (Kyle Boatright)
15. 10:15 AM - Fred Kunkel - Thanks! (David E. Nelson)
16. 10:58 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Dana Overall)
17. 11:01 AM - Re: Cracked FAB mounting plate (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
18. 12:17 PM - Re: Fred Kunkel - Thanks! (Stein Bruch)
19. 01:12 PM - Stainless Steel Tape (Stein Bruch)
20. 01:21 PM - Re: Fuel Vent Icing (Alex Peterson)
21. 02:13 PM - Re: Fuel Vent Icing (Michel)
22. 02:15 PM - Re: Gascolator extensions (Larry Bowen)
23. 02:15 PM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (Larry Bowen)
24. 02:29 PM - Re: Fuel Vent Icing (Robert Sather)
25. 02:29 PM - Re: Stainless Steel Tape (Brian Denk)
26. 03:26 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Dana Overall)
27. 03:36 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Mike Robertson)
28. 03:36 PM - Re: Gascolator extensions (WFACT01@aol.com)
29. 03:36 PM - Cheap Sectionals???? (Laird Owens)
30. 03:42 PM - RV7 Facet boost pump location ? (BillRVSIX@aol.com)
31. 04:00 PM - Re: Stainless Steel Tape (Elsa & Henry)
32. 04:02 PM - Re: Stainless Steel Tape (Stein Bruch)
33. 04:10 PM - Re: Stainless Steel Tape (RGray67968@aol.com)
34. 04:34 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Mike Robertson)
35. 05:03 PM - Re: Alodine (j1j2h3@juno.com)
36. 05:06 PM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (Kevin Maxwell)
37. 05:57 PM - Re: Alodine (linn walters)
38. 05:57 PM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (David Carter)
39. 06:00 PM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (Curt Hoffman)
40. 06:19 PM - Re: Re: VS rib to spar gap (David Carter)
41. 06:25 PM - Grounding vs primer paint (was Re: Alodine (David Carter)
42. 06:59 PM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (Douglas A. Fischer)
43. 07:58 PM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (j1j2h3@juno.com)
44. 07:58 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Sam Buchanan)
45. 08:24 PM - Re: Fuel Vent Icing (Kyle Boatright)
46. 08:36 PM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (Larry Bowen)
47. 09:17 PM - Fuel Filter options (was gascolator) (hollandm)
Message 1
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Oil cooler hose/fitting issues: RESOLVED |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
A while back, there was some discussion about oil cooler hose/fitting
interference with the new Jihostroj (aka MT) governor bracket. To provide
some background... (if you don't care, jump straight to the photos:
http://www.rvproject.com/20031103.html)
Van's used to sell a McCauley prop governor standard with firewall forward
kits. The McCauley governor's cable bracket mounts to the aft face of the
governor itself and poses no problem when routing oil cooler
hoses...specifically the hose that sends oil from the engine to the cooler
(the fitting is roughly centered on the accessory case, right below and to
the right of the oil filter spin on adapter -- at least on my IO-360-A1B6).
Anyway...the firewall forward kit comes with the fittings and hoses required
to hook up the oil cooler. They recommend using a 45-degree fitting in the
accessory housing. That worked swimmingly with the McCauley governor &
bracket.
Some time ago, Van's started shipping the new Jihostroj governor as the
standard option in the firewall forward kit, and they include a governor
cable bracket with it. Problem is, the bracket mounts to the front mounting
flange of the governor, unlike the old McCauley setup. And this bracket is
directly in the way of the traditional & recommended oil cooler hose route.
45 or straight nipple, there's no way to make it work with a
*straight-ended* hose. And installing a 90-degree fitting is impractical,
because it requires the removal of the oil filter adapter just to get it on
(not impossible, just inconvenient and impractical)...even then, I'm not
sure if it would solve the problem (it would at least require a longer
hose).
So...recently somebody suggested installing a straight nipple and using a
hose with a 45-degree end. Apparently, swapping where the 45 is (on the
hose as opposed to the fitting) made enough difference that the system
worked without the hose interfering with the governor bracket.
Well, I tried it, and it didn't work for me. I ordered a new straight-to-45
hose and installed the straight nipple. The hose interfered slightly (but
isn't slightly too much? it is for me!) with the oil filter, and the hose
was pushing/possibly chafing on the governor bracket. Not good.
Long story short, I played around with different configurations, and I
finally came up with a setup that works 100%, no interference, no chafing,
no exceptions. It may sound ridiculously simple now, but it wasn't
intuitive to me until about an hour ago...use a 45-degree fitting *and* a
45-degree hose end!
I've taken some before/during/after photos, the most relevant being the
final setup: http://www.rvproject.com/20031103.html
My advice to Van's is to update the firewall forward kit, both the
plans/instructions and the hose (give it a 45 end), to accommodate the new
governor bracket. Otherwise, everybody with this configuration might bump
into this same issue.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Microair T2000 Transponder problems |
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
Thanks for all the comments on the transponder, below is the responce I received
from Microair. It looks like the problem is the brains are being scrambled
operating to close to the radar site.
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 N8EM 99.7 hours
We are sorry you are having trouble with your transponder. We have found a snag
with our transponder, which is due to overloading in the face of multiple radars.
In areas of high radar activity, the rear microprocessor goes into a dither
mode and wont answer to anything. We have developed a fix for this, which
we are presently flight testing with excellent results, however it will not
be available for several weeks.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I have a bit of problem really understanding your problem. But it sounds
like it could be what is needed is a shim could fill the gap and allow the
two parts to fit and be riveted tightly together. I believe my older plans
called for the possible use of a shim and I had to use it to get a real
tight fit.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit and Painting Viper Racer Yellow over DP48LP
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <abstraction@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
>
> Followup on what I wrote a while ago:
>
> > I have been trying to rivet my VS ribs to the forward spar for a while
now.
> > (RV-9, but same VS in 7 and 8) After some learning curve on the rivet
gun,
> > my only remaining problem is that a gap forms between the rib and spar
as I
> > drive the rivet.
>
> Gus at Van's told me that gaps "are not good" and to drill out and clamp
> better, or use pop rivets if I cannot eliminate the gap. I've tried
clamping
> everywhere possible but still have gaps forming. Now I find this old post
from
> Scott at Vans:
>
>
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=46098614?KEYS=spar_&_rib_&_gap?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=108?SERIAL=18500310051?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
>
> Which seems to say that small gaps are ok (on the HS) if the parts are
tight
> before riveting, which they have been. My gaps are small too (.01 - .02"?
> Can't find a feeler gauge)
>
> After lots of experimenting one of the causes that seems impossible to
> eliminate here is that you cannot clamp both sides of the flange
surrounding
> some of the rivets. This seems to allow enough slack to allow the flange
to
> lift up as the shop head is formed.
>
> After at least 10 drilled rivets, 2 damaged holes (about to receive AD5
> rivets), several nicks on my spar, countless test strips to try to
identify the
> problem, and a *huge* delay, I guess I will push ahead gaps and all.
Anyone
> want to argue for the pop rivet approach? I wish I knew how common this
> problem is because I sure don't see anyone else using pop rivets
here...did
> anyone else hold their spar up to the light and not see a gap?
>
> Just barely hanging on,
> Paul
>
>
> __________________________________
> http://antispam.yahoo.com/whatsnewfree
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi All,
Does anybody know how I might contact Fred Kunkle. His last known
(rvator@earthlink.net) address bounces.
Thanks,
/\/elson
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Kunkel" <rvator@socal.rr.com>
Hi Nelson,
You can contact us at info@clearairtools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fred Kunkle
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> Does anybody know how I might contact Fred Kunkle. His last known
> (rvator@earthlink.net) address bounces.
>
> Thanks,
> /\/elson
>
> --
> ~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
> time, then break it again.
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Electronic Ignition |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Brown" <nightmare@adelphia.net>
I know that a lot of the guys have installed electronic ignitions in their RV's.
Most that I have seen are the lightspeed. Has anyone determined which one is
the best?
Paul
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 07:54 AM 10/31/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
>
>I just spoke to Gus at Van's about it and he agrees that insufficient
>clamping is the problem and would not leave any gap that you can
>see daylight through on this part. So I am going to try drilling out
>(again) and finding some way to put an extra clamp on there.
I suspect you are having trouble because you are using a rivet gun
instead of a squeezer. On the few rivets I had to hit with the rivet gun, I
found it was more difficult to close the gap.
I used a squeezer on nearly every rivet.
http://www.killacycle.com/mongo1.JPG ($100 on Ebay)
This foot-operated, 9 inch throat monster, along with a more
conventional CP-214C with a selection of yokes made it possible for me to
squeeze almost all the rivets on the tail.
I think when the rivet set strikes the rivet head against the
spar, the rib behind the spar bounces away, leaving a gap.
There are a few things you can try. 1)You can set the rivet gun to
a lower pressure and hit the rivet with a lot of small strokes instead of a
few big strokes. 2)You can use the flush rivet tool on the gun on the shop
head, and use a universal rivet set to buck the other side. (You drill a
3/16" hole in a chunk of steel to allow you to use sets to buck with.)
3)You can glue a rubber washer to your bucking bar to help brace the metal
around the rivet. The rubber washer should be tall enough to press against
the rib before the bar touches the rivet.
You can practice these techniques on scrap before trying them on
the tail itself.
Bill Dube'
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Electronic Ignition |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>
>I know that a lot of the guys have installed electronic ignitions in their
>RV's. Most that I have seen are the lightspeed. Has anyone determined which
>one is the best?
>
>Paul
They're ALL great. There should be ample information in the rv-list
archives. Lightspeed is, indeed, quite poplular, with Jeff Rose's system
right on par with it and the LASAR from Unison from an FAA certified
standpoint. You can't go wrong with any of these.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
O-360/Lightspeed.
From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing
on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
11/04/2003 10:21:45 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
another thing you might try is a side cleco clamp on each side of the hole
before riveting. I also used a c squeeze on mine and not a rivet gun.
do not archive
Glenn
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
The information that I have at this time tells me that for a non GPS
approach that requires a DME fix or a DME arc that you may not use the GPS.
Let me check again and I will get back to you.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
>Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:01:14 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>You can use approach
>approved GPS for non-precision GPS approaches now and can use it to
>identify
>ADF and intersection fixes now. The only caviat is that for precision
>approaches that require DME you must still have a DME receiver on board.
>
>
>Mike, I would like to differ with you on the above point. It is my
>understanding from conversations with various individuals of knowledge and
>a
>couple different companies supplying approach certified GPS, as long as the
>GPS database is current and identifies within that database the DME point
>the GPS is a substitute for DME. You the pilot cannot load a waypoint into
>the system and use that for the DME point even if you know the exact
>coordinates of such. Certainly correct me if I am wrong.
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit
>Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing
>on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
>
>
MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search...
http://shopping.msn.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Sam,
You asked from a regulatory standpoint what was allowed/required. I guess
the answer was somewhat misleading. Per AC 20-138, dated 5/94, and the
current AIMS you must have the appropriate ground based nav equipment on
board the aircraft but you don't have to use it provided the installed GPS
is IFR approved. Obviously if you only have an enroute or terminal IFR GPS
then you would need the proper/appropriate equipment for the approach.
Does that clear it up??
Mike Robertson
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's
>Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:05:04 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>Mike Robertson wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Sam,
> >
> > Sorry it took me so long to reply but I wanted to check on something to
>amek
> > sure I was giving you the right info.
> >
> > There is NO requirement to have or use a VOR for IFR enroute. The reg
>says
> > that you will have navigation equipment compatible with the ground
> > facilities to be used. If you don't use any ground facilities then
>there is
> > no need for ground based navigational equipment. An enroute GPS may be
>the
> > only thing you use for IFR enroute.
> >
> > Now if you do use a VOR for enroute navigation then the GPS can be of
>any
> > make/model that you want.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
>
>
>Thanks for the follow up, Mike. Here is the quote from Advisory Circular
>138-20 that the EAA is using in their opinion about GPS in IFR ops:
>
>Paragraph 4, Background, subparagraph g:
>(3) IFR Navigation Equipment. GPS equipment for IFR
>navigation is for use as a supplemental navigation system. The
>installation of GPS equipment does not affect the requirement for
>a primary means of navigation appropriate to the route intended
>to be flown. Within the contiguous United States, Alaska,
>Hawaii, and surrounding coastal waters, this requirement can be
>met with an operational, independent VOR receiver. Additional
>navigation equipment redundancy may be required for operation in
>oceanic and remote airspace.
>
>Are experimental aircraft subject to the requirements of the AC20-138?
>Or, is the AC *only* advisory, not regulatory, in scope? Or, has this AC
>been superseded by something newer?
>
>Thanks in advance for your reply,
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>===============
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
I re-checked the current AIMs and in Section 1-1-20 (GPS) paragraph F5 and
F6 it clearly says that GPS may be used for enroute and terminal
alternatives to ADF and DME but not for approach fixes requiring ADF or DME.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
>Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:01:14 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>You can use approach
>approved GPS for non-precision GPS approaches now and can use it to
>identify
>ADF and intersection fixes now. The only caviat is that for precision
>approaches that require DME you must still have a DME receiver on board.
>
>
>Mike, I would like to differ with you on the above point. It is my
>understanding from conversations with various individuals of knowledge and
>a
>couple different companies supplying approach certified GPS, as long as the
>GPS database is current and identifies within that database the DME point
>the GPS is a substitute for DME. You the pilot cannot load a waypoint into
>the system and use that for the DME point even if you know the exact
>coordinates of such. Certainly correct me if I am wrong.
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit
>Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing
>on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
You're right, it was worse with a rivet gun but the squeezer is doing
it too.
(I have also heard from two Van's employees, one says that squeezing tends
to be worse for gaps, the other says bucking is worse.)
Gus made a good point that if you are squeezing you may be able to have
a free hand to hold the parts together. This did not appear to help
in this case though.
That's an awesome looking squeezer! I have a very used CP-214 myself,
which with the longeron yoke and 4-inch no-hole can get to every rivet on
the skeleton.
Paul
On Tue, Nov 04, 2003 at 09:04:16AM -0700, Bill Dube wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> At 07:54 AM 10/31/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
> >
> >I just spoke to Gus at Van's about it and he agrees that insufficient
> >clamping is the problem and would not leave any gap that you can
> >see daylight through on this part. So I am going to try drilling out
> >(again) and finding some way to put an extra clamp on there.
>
> I suspect you are having trouble because you are using a rivet gun
> instead of a squeezer. On the few rivets I had to hit with the rivet gun, I
> found it was more difficult to close the gap.
>
> I used a squeezer on nearly every rivet.
>
> http://www.killacycle.com/mongo1.JPG ($100 on Ebay)
>
> This foot-operated, 9 inch throat monster, along with a more
> conventional CP-214C with a selection of yokes made it possible for me to
> squeeze almost all the rivets on the tail.
>
> I think when the rivet set strikes the rivet head against the
> spar, the rib behind the spar bounces away, leaving a gap.
>
> There are a few things you can try. 1)You can set the rivet gun to
> a lower pressure and hit the rivet with a lot of small strokes instead of a
> few big strokes. 2)You can use the flush rivet tool on the gun on the shop
> head, and use a universal rivet set to buck the other side. (You drill a
> 3/16" hole in a chunk of steel to allow you to use sets to buck with.)
> 3)You can glue a rubber washer to your bucking bar to help brace the metal
> around the rivet. The rubber washer should be tall enough to press against
> the rib before the bar touches the rivet.
>
> You can practice these techniques on scrap before trying them on
> the tail itself.
>
> Bill Dube'
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I saw a story this morning where Bruce Bohannon's aircraft became a glider during
an altitude record attempt because the fuel vents iced over. The moisture
source was f fluid from the spray bars used for engine cooling.
Now, my airplane doesn't have spray bars, but it does have external fuel vents
that look like excellent ice accumulators. Anyone else share this opinion? Has
anyone done anything that might improve the situation? I find it interesting
that we worry about heated pitot tubes, but not fuel vents. My airplane will
fly *much* better with an iced pitot tube than with two iced fuel vents...
KB
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Fred Kunkel - Thanks! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi All,
Got a couple quick responses for Fred's address inluding an email from
'clearairtools.com' that surely looked like a SPAM email until later
inspection. ;)
Below is Fred's latest info:
contact@clearairtools.com
Phone: 818 775-1650
Thanks guys!
/\/elson
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
There's a lot of "illegal" DME approaches being shot as we speak:-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
>Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 09:56:47 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
>I re-checked the current AIMs and in Section 1-1-20 (GPS) paragraph F5 and
>F6 it clearly says that GPS may be used for enroute and terminal
>alternatives to ADF and DME but not for approach fixes requiring ADF or
>DME.
>
>Mike Robertson
>
>
> >From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
> >Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:01:14 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> >You can use approach
> >approved GPS for non-precision GPS approaches now and can use it to
> >identify
> >ADF and intersection fixes now. The only caviat is that for precision
> >approaches that require DME you must still have a DME receiver on board.
> >
> >
> >Mike, I would like to differ with you on the above point. It is my
> >understanding from conversations with various individuals of knowledge
>and
> >a
> >couple different companies supplying approach certified GPS, as long as
>the
> >GPS database is current and identifies within that database the DME point
> >the GPS is a substitute for DME. You the pilot cannot load a waypoint
>into
> >the system and use that for the DME point even if you know the exact
> >coordinates of such. Certainly correct me if I am wrong.
> >
> >
> >Dana Overall
> >Richmond, KY
> >RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> >Finish kit
> >Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> >http://rvflying.tripod.com
> >do not archive
> >
> >From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always
>playing
> >on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
> >
> >
>
>
Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account is over
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | RE: Cracked FAB mounting plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Interesting talk on this plate issue.
Mine cracked early on at about the 100 hour mark. I looked at the cracks
and decided that the box would stay on and I would see if it got worse.
I have several cracks and it has stayed that way for over 1000 hours
since. I felt the new cracks gave the box the flexibility it needed to
be happy. I did not see a threat in pieces falling off where mine
cracked. But it is something to consider, and reconsider.
Mine is the AFP plate.
Mike Stewart
do not archive
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Fred Kunkel - Thanks! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Just a note about Fred Kunkel and ClearAir Tools.
Information for those who may not have heard of Fred....His company has
really good deals on tools, riveting equipment, and hardware. This is not
"cheaply made" stuff, but name brand, top of the line equipment. I know for
a fact his air squeezers are just about the best deal around, as well as
many of his other items. He has more stuff than you probably can imagine!
Before you start buying lots of tools, give Fred a try, you won't be
disspointed.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Subject: RV-List: Fred Kunkel - Thanks!
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi All,
Got a couple quick responses for Fred's address inluding an email from
'clearairtools.com' that surely looked like a SPAM email until later
inspection. ;)
Below is Fred's latest info:
contact@clearairtools.com
Phone: 818 775-1650
Thanks guys!
/\/elson
Message 19
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|
"Rv7-List" <rv7-list@matronics.com>, "Rv6-List" <rv6-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Stainless Steel Tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi All,
I was just looking to purchase some 3" Stainless steel tape for my latest
RV6 flaps, and found out most places are wanting $1.00+ per foot (even JC
Whitney)--- YIKES!!
So....as typical, I found the manufacturer, and ordered a BUNCH!!
I negotiated a much better deal, and will be passing it on to everyone else!
I will be selling it on my website starting next week, and the price will be
$.50 cents per foot. The stainless tape is 3" with the heavy duty Acrylic
adhesive, exactly what works well on the leading edge of the -4,6,7, & 8
flaps.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
Do Not Archive
Message 20
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> I saw a story this morning where Bruce Bohannon's aircraft
> became a glider during an altitude record attempt because the
> fuel vents iced over. The moisture source was f fluid from
> the spray bars used for engine cooling.
>
> Now, my airplane doesn't have spray bars, but it does have
> external fuel vents that look like excellent ice
> accumulators. Anyone else share this opinion? Has anyone
> done anything that might improve the situation? I find it
> interesting that we worry about heated pitot tubes, but not
> fuel vents. My airplane will fly *much* better with an iced
> pitot tube than with two iced fuel vents...
Kyle,
I don't have icing experience with my plane, but I did have that
concern. The vents on my 6A are what Van calls for, the 45 degree cut
AN fitting. I filed a small flat on the aft side of the fitting, above
the open bevel area, and drilled a 3/32" hole from the aft side. This
hole is "masked" as viewed from the front, so hopefully, it would allow
an alternate vent.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michel" <rv8ter@rogers.com>
I agree with you! This is why I modified my RV8 vents and routed the tubing
to the ramp so that it gets the air coming from the cowling area. Have not
made any tests, so it's all experimental.
Had the experience with my one vent RV3, a mud dauber had made a real tight
seal and I was caught over bush land and after diverting still put almost
one hour before landing.
The engine did not quit but the wing tanks were gravely modified.
RV8 120 hrs
Michel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Vent Icing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
<kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
I saw a story this morning where Bruce Bohannon's aircraft became a glider
during an altitude record attempt because the fuel vents iced over. The
moisture source was f fluid from the spray bars used for engine cooling.
Now, my airplane doesn't have spray bars, but it does have external fuel
vents that look like excellent ice accumulators. Anyone else share this
opinion? Has anyone done anything that might improve the situation? I find
it interesting that we worry about heated pitot tubes, but not fuel vents.
My airplane will fly *much* better with an iced pitot tube than with two
iced fuel vents...
KB
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Gascolator extensions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I bet you meant cowl, not canopy.
I used one of the quick drains with the 1" extension on my gascolator.
I'll have a hole in the cowl aligned with the drain that will allow me
to insert an AL tube (3/8 x 10"?), capture the drain, push and take a
sample. All in theory so far. I'm working on the cowl now, so we'll
see how it works out soon enough...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: hollandm [mailto:hollandm@pacbell.net]
> Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 11:03 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Gascolator extensions
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
>
> I'm considering adding a short extension tube to the bottom
> of the gascolator to so that the quick drain will end-up
> flush with the canopy bottom. Is there any problem with
> this? My concern is with possible movement of the canopy and
> how much clearance to allow, choice of material for the tube
> and fittings.
>
>
> Thanks
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Ah the memories....Thanks for refering to my post 5 years ago. You'd
think I would be done with this plane by now! But, no....
Anyway. I bet you are fine. Do you have a picture to share? Can
another builder take a look in person?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Paul Eastham [mailto:abstraction@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 10:42 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
>
> Followup on what I wrote a while ago:
>
> > I have been trying to rivet my VS ribs to the forward spar
> for a while
> > now. (RV-9, but same VS in 7 and 8) After some learning
> curve on the
> > rivet gun, my only remaining problem is that a gap forms
> between the
> > rib and spar as I drive the rivet.
>
> Gus at Van's told me that gaps "are not good" and to drill
> out and clamp better, or use pop rivets if I cannot eliminate
> the gap. I've tried clamping everywhere possible but still
> have gaps forming. Now I find this old post from Scott at Vans:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=460
> 98614?KEYS=spar_&_rib_&_gap?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=108?SERIAL=1
> 8500310051?SHOWBUTTONS=YES
>
> Which seems to say that small gaps are ok (on the HS) if the
> parts are tight before riveting, which they have been. My
> gaps are small too (.01 - .02"? Can't find a feeler gauge)
>
> After lots of experimenting one of the causes that seems
> impossible to eliminate here is that you cannot clamp both
> sides of the flange surrounding some of the rivets. This
> seems to allow enough slack to allow the flange to lift up as
> the shop head is formed.
>
> After at least 10 drilled rivets, 2 damaged holes (about to
> receive AD5 rivets), several nicks on my spar, countless test
> strips to try to identify the problem, and a *huge* delay, I
> guess I will push ahead gaps and all. Anyone want to argue
> for the pop rivet approach? I wish I knew how common this
> problem is because I sure don't see anyone else using pop
> rivets here...did anyone else hold their spar up to the light
> and not see a gap?
>
> Just barely hanging on,
> Paul
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Icing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Sather" <sather@charter.net>
With out the liquid spray bar cooling would this still be a problem with the
fuel vents where the are installed? Have not heard that problem on a
standard RV.
Bobby
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Vent Icing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
> > I saw a story this morning where Bruce Bohannon's aircraft
> > became a glider during an altitude record attempt because the
> > fuel vents iced over. The moisture source was f fluid from
> > the spray bars used for engine cooling.
> >
> > Now, my airplane doesn't have spray bars, but it does have
> > external fuel vents that look like excellent ice
> > accumulators. Anyone else share this opinion? Has anyone
> > done anything that might improve the situation? I find it
> > interesting that we worry about heated pitot tubes, but not
> > fuel vents. My airplane will fly *much* better with an iced
> > pitot tube than with two iced fuel vents...
>
>
> Kyle,
> I don't have icing experience with my plane, but I did have that
> concern. The vents on my 6A are what Van calls for, the 45 degree cut
> AN fitting. I filed a small flat on the aft side of the fitting, above
> the open bevel area, and drilled a 3/32" hole from the aft side. This
> hole is "masked" as viewed from the front, so hopefully, it would allow
> an alternate vent.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 15:18:43 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Hi All,
>
>I was just looking to purchase some 3" Stainless steel tape for my latest
>RV6 flaps, and found out most places are wanting $1.00+ per foot (even JC
>Whitney)--- YIKES!!
>
>So....as typical, I found the manufacturer, and ordered a BUNCH!!
>
>I negotiated a much better deal, and will be passing it on to everyone
>else!
>
>I will be selling it on my website starting next week, and the price will
>be
>$.50 cents per foot. The stainless tape is 3" with the heavy duty Acrylic
>adhesive, exactly what works well on the leading edge of the -4,6,7, & 8
>flaps.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>
FWIW, I found the stainless tape to be really wicked...would not lay down
smoothly and the edges were so sharp as to make handling it a hazardous
endeavor. The plastic tape (UMHF, VHF, FBI, CIA, whatever it's called) went
on beautifully and safely. It's held up perfectly for four years thus far.
Stein, get some of this stuff too and you'll sell a ton of it!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
350 hrs.
MSN Shopping upgraded for the holidays! Snappier product search...
http://shopping.msn.com
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Mike, it is certainly not my intent to discredit your understanding of the
AIM so please do not take it as such. This is an area where I feel fairly
competent as IFR flying is something I do on a regular basis. This is a
post from a retired ATP and fellow Bonanza flyer. He actually is an advisor
to the FAA on GPS approaches to airports around the nation. He is very
current on such issues. I only post this reply here so that others may see
the complexity of such interpretation.
"I re-checked the current AIMs and in Section 1-1-20 (GPS) paragraph F5 and
F6 it clearly says that GPS may be used for enroute and terminal
alternatives to ADF and DME but not for approach fixes requiring ADF or
DME."
>>>>My question to Old Bob was this<<<<
It's always been my understand that an approach certified GPS with a current
data base showing the position of a DME measuring point was a legal
alternative to DME. I've fiddled around looking over the AIMs to
substantiate my understanding, which looks wrong, but can't seem to find it.
Care to chime in on my position.
>>>>Old Bob's reply is as follows<<<<<
Good Evening Dana,
Have your friend look again. His/her interpretation is in error.
The paragraph numbers have changed. The appropriate data is now in 1-1-21,
but the information is the same as before.
There is no sense in copying the whole chapter here. The meat is that the
GPS may be used in lieu of an ADF or a DME in any situation during enroute,
terminal or approach conditions except for the case of executing an NDB
approach that does not have an overlay.
In addition, any alternate named must be based on being able to execute an
approach at that alternate without the use of GPS.
This is true in any portion of the United States National Airspace system
including flight above FL240.
The easiest way to explain this is to read the paragraphs that describe
precisely how to go about substituting the GPS data for the ADF fix or DME
distance.
If your friend would care to send me quotes of the language he/she feels
justifies his/her position, I will be happy to point out the errors. The
entire interpretation takes several pages of the AIM. Way too much to quote
here.
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Mike or anyone with GPS approach or instrument approach questions, Bob is
without a doubt the most knowledgable person I have ever met in regards to
instrument flying. His email address is BobsV35@aol.com
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Maybe so. Thats why we, as a group, should do our best to educate the rest
for all of our safety.
Mike Robertson
Do Not Archive
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
>Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 13:57:21 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>There's a lot of "illegal" DME approaches being shot as we speak:-)
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit
>Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
> >From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
> >Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 09:56:47 -0800
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
> >
> >I re-checked the current AIMs and in Section 1-1-20 (GPS) paragraph F5
>and
> >F6 it clearly says that GPS may be used for enroute and terminal
> >alternatives to ADF and DME but not for approach fixes requiring ADF or
> >DME.
> >
> >Mike Robertson
> >
> >
> > >From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
> > >Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:01:14 -0500
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> > >
> > >You can use approach
> > >approved GPS for non-precision GPS approaches now and can use it to
> > >identify
> > >ADF and intersection fixes now. The only caviat is that for precision
> > >approaches that require DME you must still have a DME receiver on
>board.
> > >
> > >
> > >Mike, I would like to differ with you on the above point. It is my
> > >understanding from conversations with various individuals of knowledge
> >and
> > >a
> > >couple different companies supplying approach certified GPS, as long as
> >the
> > >GPS database is current and identifies within that database the DME
>point
> > >the GPS is a substitute for DME. You the pilot cannot load a waypoint
> >into
> > >the system and use that for the DME point even if you know the exact
> > >coordinates of such. Certainly correct me if I am wrong.
> > >
> > >
> > >Dana Overall
> > >Richmond, KY
> > >RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> > >Finish kit
> > >Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> > >http://rvflying.tripod.com
> > >do not archive
> > >
> > >From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always
> >playing
> > >on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account is over
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Gascolator extensions |
--> RV-List message posted by: WFACT01@aol.com
LARRY-You might look at the Cessna gasotator with the remote cable and put
the drain tube tube out the exit ramp-the cable operates from the oil door-works
great-TOM
Tom Whelan
Whelan Farms Airport
President EAA Chapter 1097
wfact01@aol.com
249 Hard Hill Road North
PO Box 426
Bethlehem, CT 06751
Tel: 203-266-5300
Fax: 202-266-5140
EAA Technical/Flight Advisor
RV-8 540 LYC (Engine Runs, Taxi-Tests)
S-51 Mustang Turbine (Under Construction)
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I just ran across www.avmaps.com They sell sectional and other
aviation map products. Their sectional price is $5.99 That's a
bunch lower than even the FAA sells them direct (8.00)
Has anybody had any dealings with this company, or any other
recommendations of places for cheap maps that you use.
TIA,
Laird RV-6 820hrs
SoCal
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | RV7 Facet boost pump location ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BillRVSIX@aol.com
Hello IM building a RV-6 and want to see how the RV -7 Facet fuel pump is
mounted and located if any one could send a picture i would appreciate it. Thanks
Bill Higgins
Whigg1170@aol.com
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
I'm surprised that stainless steel tape is still being used on the flap's
leading edges. When Van's came out with the UHMW tape and in an RVator
article extolled its virtues as compared to the SS stuff, it convinced me to
use the HHMW despite the fact that I already had a roll of the SS tape. I'm
very happy with the UHMW, goes on easily and doesn't wrinkle as I have seen
on lots of RV's with the SS. My experience, anyway.
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Stainless Steel Tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Good point, the UHMW "Ultra High Molecular Weigh" (Polyethylene) Tapes are
also a good alternative.
I can get it WAYYYY cheaper than Van's charges, although it will still be a
bit more than the SS. Here's the problem,
I can get it in any thickness from .003" to .125".
I need suggestions on what thickness and width y'all think is the best!
Thanks,
Stein Bruch
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Brian Denk
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stainless Steel Tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Folks,
While you're talking about it........here's a tip.........put the UHMW tape
on the UNDERSIDE of the wing skin........NOT on the leading edge of the flap.
This way you DO NOT SEE the tape. No scratches on my flaps in 260 hours - and,
if they start to get scratched I can always put the tape on 'em :
).
Rick Gray RV6 in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
please archive
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Interesting. Let me dig into the books more.
Mike R.
Do Not Archive
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
>Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 18:26:28 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>Mike, it is certainly not my intent to discredit your understanding of the
>AIM so please do not take it as such. This is an area where I feel fairly
>competent as IFR flying is something I do on a regular basis. This is a
>post from a retired ATP and fellow Bonanza flyer. He actually is an
>advisor
>to the FAA on GPS approaches to airports around the nation. He is very
>current on such issues. I only post this reply here so that others may see
>the complexity of such interpretation.
>
>"I re-checked the current AIMs and in Section 1-1-20 (GPS) paragraph F5 and
>F6 it clearly says that GPS may be used for enroute and terminal
>alternatives to ADF and DME but not for approach fixes requiring ADF or
>DME."
>
> >>>>My question to Old Bob was this<<<<
>
>It's always been my understand that an approach certified GPS with a
>current
>data base showing the position of a DME measuring point was a legal
>alternative to DME. I've fiddled around looking over the AIMs to
>substantiate my understanding, which looks wrong, but can't seem to find
>it.
> Care to chime in on my position.
>
> >>>>Old Bob's reply is as follows<<<<<
>
>
>Good Evening Dana,
>
>Have your friend look again. His/her interpretation is in error.
>
>The paragraph numbers have changed. The appropriate data is now in 1-1-21,
>but the information is the same as before.
>
>There is no sense in copying the whole chapter here. The meat is that the
>GPS may be used in lieu of an ADF or a DME in any situation during enroute,
>terminal or approach conditions except for the case of executing an NDB
>approach that does not have an overlay.
>
>In addition, any alternate named must be based on being able to execute an
>approach at that alternate without the use of GPS.
>
>This is true in any portion of the United States National Airspace system
>including flight above FL240.
>
>The easiest way to explain this is to read the paragraphs that describe
>precisely how to go about substituting the GPS data for the ADF fix or DME
>distance.
>
>If your friend would care to send me quotes of the language he/she feels
>justifies his/her position, I will be happy to point out the errors. The
>entire interpretation takes several pages of the AIM. Way too much to
>quote
>here.
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>AKA
>Bob Siegfried
>Ancient Aviator
>
>Mike or anyone with GPS approach or instrument approach questions, Bob is
>without a doubt the most knowledgable person I have ever met in regards to
>instrument flying. His email address is BobsV35@aol.com
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit
>Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
Compare high-speed Internet plans, starting at $26.95.
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.)
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>Excellent description by John Brick. I would add that Alodine is
>electrically conductive while Anodize is an electrical insulator.
Man, you've just given me a whole 'nother thing to worry about. If I
prime with a non-conductive primer, do I then have to worry about not
getting a good ground path for my electrics?
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee)
Do not archive
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Maxwell <kevmaxwell@mac.com>
I use their subscription service and have been very happy.
Kevin Maxwell
F1
On Tuesday, November 4, 2003, at 05:32 PM, Laird Owens wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
> I just ran across www.avmaps.com They sell sectional and other
> aviation map products. Their sectional price is $5.99 That's a
> bunch lower than even the FAA sells them direct (8.00)
>
> Has anybody had any dealings with this company, or any other
> recommendations of places for cheap maps that you use.
>
> TIA,
>
> Laird RV-6 820hrs
> SoCal
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 37
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
j1j2h3@juno.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
>
>
>>Excellent description by John Brick. I would add that Alodine is
>>electrically conductive while Anodize is an electrical insulator.
>>
>>
>
>Man, you've just given me a whole 'nother thing to worry about. If I
>prime with a non-conductive primer, do I then have to worry about not
>getting a good ground path for my electrics?
>
Yes, and no. Yes, because paint COULD prevent a grounding screw from
contacting the metal. Removing the paint in that area only will
alleviate that problem. Priming with paint on both sides would be worst
case. Usually there is enough contact between the sides of the hole and
the grounding fastener that you get conduction. The rivets are enough
to supply conduction paths between completely isolated items .... such
as primer before assembly. One solution is to have a few really good
grounding points and routing grounding wires to those points.
Linn
>
>Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
>Tennessee)
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
AVmaps.com is priced 1 cent below the price at http://www.flyairways.com -
they advertise 25% off the $8 price for Sectionals, or $6. They also have
all the IFR maps and every other map and the Airport/Facility Directory,
etc. I've called them and ordered from them - and they do NOT charge the $5
shipping shown when you check out - use U.S. Postal Svc for about $1.22 for
a single map. Tried to check shipping at www.avmaps.com and the site
wouldn't come up.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens@aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cheap Sectionals????
> --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
> I just ran across www.avmaps.com They sell sectional and other
> aviation map products. Their sectional price is $5.99 That's a
> bunch lower than even the FAA sells them direct (8.00)
>
> Has anybody had any dealings with this company, or any other
> recommendations of places for cheap maps that you use.
>
> TIA,
>
> Laird RV-6 820hrs
> SoCal
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
Funny- I just completed riveting these ribs to the VS tonight just before I
came up and read this string of mails. I ran back downstairs to see if I had
any gaps that I didn't recall. I don't see any gaps on mine so I speculated
on what could cause then based on what I just did. By the way, I used a
squeezer for the two independent ribs to spar attachments, and bucked the
ribs that attach together with the spar in the middle ( forget the numbers).
I had difficulty getting the squeezer in this area so decided it was just
easier to buck them.
Since the ribs attach to the spar at an angle it is pretty easy to pull a
gap if the flanges aren't held tight to the rib even though the rib is at an
angle. This was why I bucked the ribs at the bottom. I was having trouble
getting the squeezer in there without bending the rib back and pulling the
flange away from the spar. I was only holding it with clecoes so it could
bend away.
On the ones I squeezed, I had the ability to hold the rib flange flat
against the spar while holding the squeezer with the other hand and that
seemed to work well. I personally think it is nicer to squeeze them to avoid
gaps but I have screwed up both ways. I couldn't get a piece of paper
between the flange and the spar and they seemed pretty tight. Not sure what
the spec is but if you can see light between them that may be too much. The
check of the clecoing the skin to the assembly was a good idea I think.
Also, given there aren't that many rivets, it might be good to try drilling
one rib out to see if holding the rib differently really helps. With only
riveting a rib flange to the spar there really shouldn't be a reason to have
a gap unless something is pulling the flange away while riveting and that
likely is connected with the way you are holding it. Might be good to get
someone to lend a hand to avoid this. I did this many times when I thought,
while it was possible to hold myself, it was much easier and better quality
to have a hand.
Curt Hoffman
RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
Quick build fuselage now in basement
Piper Cherokee N5320W
1974 TR6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
>
> You're right, it was worse with a rivet gun but the squeezer is doing
> it too.
>
> (I have also heard from two Van's employees, one says that squeezing tends
> to be worse for gaps, the other says bucking is worse.)
>
> Gus made a good point that if you are squeezing you may be able to have
> a free hand to hold the parts together. This did not appear to help
> in this case though.
>
> That's an awesome looking squeezer! I have a very used CP-214 myself,
> which with the longeron yoke and 4-inch no-hole can get to every rivet on
> the skeleton.
>
> Paul
>
> On Tue, Nov 04, 2003 at 09:04:16AM -0700, Bill Dube wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> >
> > At 07:54 AM 10/31/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
> > >
> > >I just spoke to Gus at Van's about it and he agrees that insufficient
> > >clamping is the problem and would not leave any gap that you can
> > >see daylight through on this part. So I am going to try drilling out
> > >(again) and finding some way to put an extra clamp on there.
> >
> > I suspect you are having trouble because you are using a rivet
gun
> > instead of a squeezer. On the few rivets I had to hit with the rivet
gun, I
> > found it was more difficult to close the gap.
> >
> > I used a squeezer on nearly every rivet.
> >
> > http://www.killacycle.com/mongo1.JPG ($100 on Ebay)
> >
> > This foot-operated, 9 inch throat monster, along with a more
> > conventional CP-214C with a selection of yokes made it possible for me
to
> > squeeze almost all the rivets on the tail.
> >
> > I think when the rivet set strikes the rivet head against the
> > spar, the rib behind the spar bounces away, leaving a gap.
> >
> > There are a few things you can try. 1)You can set the rivet gun
to
> > a lower pressure and hit the rivet with a lot of small strokes instead
of a
> > few big strokes. 2)You can use the flush rivet tool on the gun on the
shop
> > head, and use a universal rivet set to buck the other side. (You drill a
> > 3/16" hole in a chunk of steel to allow you to use sets to buck with.)
> > 3)You can glue a rubber washer to your bucking bar to help brace the
metal
> > around the rivet. The rubber washer should be tall enough to press
against
> > the rib before the bar touches the rivet.
> >
> > You can practice these techniques on scrap before trying them
on
> > the tail itself.
> >
> > Bill Dube'
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: VS rib to spar gap |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
As I read this continuing commentary, I begine to remember 5 years ago when
I was at this stage - without dragging out the plans and my detailed notes
(whining) I do believe that I rebent the rib's flange so that the rib was
about an 8th of an inch longer - was a real pain to do but I got it done.
Another of those, "No, I've never heard of that." from Van's and here we are
5 years later with the same problem on the newest and best kits.
How I love people who really practice Continuous Quality Improvement (more
descriptive or meaningful words for Total Quality Management) - and how I
resent those who won't get on board and do simple things to make things
better for those coming along behind.
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
>
> Funny- I just completed riveting these ribs to the VS tonight just before
I
> came up and read this string of mails. I ran back downstairs to see if I
had
> any gaps that I didn't recall. I don't see any gaps on mine so I
speculated
> on what could cause then based on what I just did. By the way, I used a
> squeezer for the two independent ribs to spar attachments, and bucked the
> ribs that attach together with the spar in the middle ( forget the
numbers).
> I had difficulty getting the squeezer in this area so decided it was just
> easier to buck them.
>
> Since the ribs attach to the spar at an angle it is pretty easy to pull a
> gap if the flanges aren't held tight to the rib even though the rib is at
an
> angle. This was why I bucked the ribs at the bottom. I was having trouble
> getting the squeezer in there without bending the rib back and pulling the
> flange away from the spar. I was only holding it with clecoes so it could
> bend away.
>
> On the ones I squeezed, I had the ability to hold the rib flange flat
> against the spar while holding the squeezer with the other hand and that
> seemed to work well. I personally think it is nicer to squeeze them to
avoid
> gaps but I have screwed up both ways. I couldn't get a piece of paper
> between the flange and the spar and they seemed pretty tight. Not sure
what
> the spec is but if you can see light between them that may be too much.
The
> check of the clecoing the skin to the assembly was a good idea I think.
> Also, given there aren't that many rivets, it might be good to try
drilling
> one rib out to see if holding the rib differently really helps. With only
> riveting a rib flange to the spar there really shouldn't be a reason to
have
> a gap unless something is pulling the flange away while riveting and that
> likely is connected with the way you are holding it. Might be good to get
> someone to lend a hand to avoid this. I did this many times when I
thought,
> while it was possible to hold myself, it was much easier and better
quality
> to have a hand.
>
>
> Curt Hoffman
> RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
> Quick build fuselage now in basement
> Piper Cherokee N5320W
> 1974 TR6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paul Eastham" <eastham@netapp.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: VS rib to spar gap
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <eastham@netapp.com>
> >
> > You're right, it was worse with a rivet gun but the squeezer is doing
> > it too.
> >
> > (I have also heard from two Van's employees, one says that squeezing
tends
> > to be worse for gaps, the other says bucking is worse.)
> >
> > Gus made a good point that if you are squeezing you may be able to have
> > a free hand to hold the parts together. This did not appear to help
> > in this case though.
> >
> > That's an awesome looking squeezer! I have a very used CP-214 myself,
> > which with the longeron yoke and 4-inch no-hole can get to every rivet
on
> > the skeleton.
> >
> > Paul
> >
> > On Tue, Nov 04, 2003 at 09:04:16AM -0700, Bill Dube wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> > >
> > > At 07:54 AM 10/31/2003 -0800, you wrote:
> > > >--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Eastham <abstraction@yahoo.com>
> > > >
> > > >I just spoke to Gus at Van's about it and he agrees that insufficient
> > > >clamping is the problem and would not leave any gap that you can
> > > >see daylight through on this part. So I am going to try drilling out
> > > >(again) and finding some way to put an extra clamp on there.
> > >
> > > I suspect you are having trouble because you are using a
rivet
> gun
> > > instead of a squeezer. On the few rivets I had to hit with the rivet
> gun, I
> > > found it was more difficult to close the gap.
> > >
> > > I used a squeezer on nearly every rivet.
> > >
> > > http://www.killacycle.com/mongo1.JPG ($100 on Ebay)
> > >
> > > This foot-operated, 9 inch throat monster, along with a more
> > > conventional CP-214C with a selection of yokes made it possible for me
> to
> > > squeeze almost all the rivets on the tail.
> > >
> > > I think when the rivet set strikes the rivet head against the
> > > spar, the rib behind the spar bounces away, leaving a gap.
> > >
> > > There are a few things you can try. 1)You can set the rivet
gun
> to
> > > a lower pressure and hit the rivet with a lot of small strokes instead
> of a
> > > few big strokes. 2)You can use the flush rivet tool on the gun on the
> shop
> > > head, and use a universal rivet set to buck the other side. (You drill
a
> > > 3/16" hole in a chunk of steel to allow you to use sets to buck with.)
> > > 3)You can glue a rubber washer to your bucking bar to help brace the
> metal
> > > around the rivet. The rubber washer should be tall enough to press
> against
> > > the rib before the bar touches the rivet.
> > >
> > > You can practice these techniques on scrap before trying them
> on
> > > the tail itself.
> > >
> > > Bill Dube'
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 41
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I agree that rivets swell up during squeezing/bucking so as to make really
secure contact with the unpainted sides of the hole in the skins and
longerons through which the rivets are inserted. There should be no problem
with a ground path from almost anywhere in the basic airframe of an RV-x.
I was curious about this issue and used my digital multimeter with really
long leads and measured the resistance from a point near the center of the
stainless steel firewall of my RV-6 back to the tail area (where my Whelen
power supply is installed and grounded). After measuring the resistance of
each long lead and subtracting, I was back at the 0.06 ohms that my meter
always reads when holding the ends of my normal test leads together to check
"zero".
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodine
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> j1j2h3@juno.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
> >
> >>Excellent description by John Brick. I would add that Alodine is
> >>electrically conductive while Anodize is an electrical insulator.
> >
> >Man, you've just given me a whole 'nother thing to worry about. If I
> >prime with a non-conductive primer, do I then have to worry about not
> >getting a good ground path for my electrics?
> >
> Yes, and no. Yes, because paint COULD prevent a grounding screw from
> contacting the metal. Removing the paint in that area only will
> alleviate that problem. Priming with paint on both sides would be worst
> case. Usually there is enough contact between the sides of the hole and
> the grounding fastener that you get conduction. The rivets are enough
> to supply conduction paths between completely isolated items .... such
> as primer before assembly. One solution is to have a few really good
> grounding points and routing grounding wires to those points.
> Linn
>
> >Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
> >Tennessee)
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
I use AvShop at avshop.com. The sectionals are $6.70 each and A/FDs are
$4.10. Shipping is always only $1.00 no matter how many sectionals or A/FDs
are sent at a time. The always arrive before the old ones expire.
Doug Fischer -9A Emp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Laird Owens" <owens@aerovironment.com>
Subject: RV-List: Cheap Sectionals????
> --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
>
> I just ran across www.avmaps.com They sell sectional and other
> aviation map products. Their sectional price is $5.99 That's a
> bunch lower than even the FAA sells them direct (8.00)
>
> Has anybody had any dealings with this company, or any other
> recommendations of places for cheap maps that you use.
>
> TIA,
>
> Laird RV-6 820hrs
> SoCal
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that
will
>give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy.
Okay, Dale. Don't keep us in suspense. What are they?
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee)
Do not archive
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Mike Robertson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> Sam,
>
> You asked from a regulatory standpoint what was allowed/required. I guess
> the answer was somewhat misleading. Per AC 20-138, dated 5/94, and the
> current AIMS you must have the appropriate ground based nav equipment on
> board the aircraft but you don't have to use it provided the installed GPS
> is IFR approved. Obviously if you only have an enroute or terminal IFR GPS
> then you would need the proper/appropriate equipment for the approach.
>
> Does that clear it up??
>
> Mike Robertson
It may; this latest answer is different from what you originally stated
(I think...) and is more in keeping with the interpretation the EAA
gurus have formulated.
So.....it appears that a VOR receiver needs to be on the shopping list
for anyone planning IFR enroute ops in their experimental aircraft
regardless of what flavor GPS is going to be installed.
I suspect this tidbit is going to come as an unpleasant surprise to some
builders! The argument that the GPS will relieve us of having to be
capable of using "ground based equipment" seems to be false.
Sam Buchanan
=====================
>
>
>
>>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's
>>Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2003 21:05:04 -0600
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>
>>Mike Robertson wrote:
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>>>
>>>Sam,
>>>
>>>Sorry it took me so long to reply but I wanted to check on something to
>>
>>amek
>>
>>>sure I was giving you the right info.
>>>
>>>There is NO requirement to have or use a VOR for IFR enroute. The reg
>>
>>says
>>
>>>that you will have navigation equipment compatible with the ground
>>>facilities to be used. If you don't use any ground facilities then
>>
>>there is
>>
>>>no need for ground based navigational equipment. An enroute GPS may be
>>
>>the
>>
>>>only thing you use for IFR enroute.
>>>
>>>Now if you do use a VOR for enroute navigation then the GPS can be of
>>
>>any
>>
>>>make/model that you want.
>>>
>>>Mike Robertson
>>
>>
>>Thanks for the follow up, Mike. Here is the quote from Advisory Circular
>>138-20 that the EAA is using in their opinion about GPS in IFR ops:
>>
>>Paragraph 4, Background, subparagraph g:
>>(3) IFR Navigation Equipment. GPS equipment for IFR
>>navigation is for use as a supplemental navigation system. The
>>installation of GPS equipment does not affect the requirement for
>>a primary means of navigation appropriate to the route intended
>>to be flown. Within the contiguous United States, Alaska,
>>Hawaii, and surrounding coastal waters, this requirement can be
>>met with an operational, independent VOR receiver. Additional
>>navigation equipment redundancy may be required for operation in
>>oceanic and remote airspace.
>>
>>Are experimental aircraft subject to the requirements of the AC20-138?
>>Or, is the AC *only* advisory, not regulatory, in scope? Or, has this AC
>>been superseded by something newer?
>>
>>Thanks in advance for your reply,
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>
>>===============
>>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Icing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kyle.boatright@adelphia.net>
Yep, the fuel vents could ice, even without the spray bar. As long as the
vents stick out in the breeze, they are subject to icing. In fact, their
shape would make them ice faster than most of the remainder of the airframe.
(I don't remember exactly why, or where I found this tidbit of info, but
smaller jagged or pointy shapes ice faster than larger more rounded
surfaces.) I suppose this is one reason Cessna hides their vents behind the
struts on some (all?) of their strut equipped aircraft.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Sather" <sather@charter.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vent Icing
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Sather" <sather@charter.net>
>
>
> With out the liquid spray bar cooling would this still be a problem with
the
> fuel vents where the are installed? Have not heard that problem on a
> standard RV.
> Bobby
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Vent Icing
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> >
> > > I saw a story this morning where Bruce Bohannon's aircraft
> > > became a glider during an altitude record attempt because the
> > > fuel vents iced over. The moisture source was f fluid from
> > > the spray bars used for engine cooling.
> > >
> > > Now, my airplane doesn't have spray bars, but it does have
> > > external fuel vents that look like excellent ice
> > > accumulators. Anyone else share this opinion? Has anyone
> > > done anything that might improve the situation? I find it
> > > interesting that we worry about heated pitot tubes, but not
> > > fuel vents. My airplane will fly *much* better with an iced
> > > pitot tube than with two iced fuel vents...
> >
> >
> > Kyle,
> > I don't have icing experience with my plane, but I did have that
> > concern. The vents on my 6A are what Van calls for, the 45 degree cut
> > AN fitting. I filed a small flat on the aft side of the fitting, above
> > the open bevel area, and drilled a 3/32" hole from the aft side. This
> > hole is "masked" as viewed from the front, so hopefully, it would allow
> > an alternate vent.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
> > www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> >
> >
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
My local EAA chapter sells them for $5 + shipping (or pick them up at
the next meeting). Another member perk.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Douglas A. Fischer [mailto:dfischer@iserv.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 9:59 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cheap Sectionals????
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
> <dfischer@iserv.net>
>
> I use AvShop at avshop.com. The sectionals are $6.70 each
> and A/FDs are $4.10. Shipping is always only $1.00 no matter
> how many sectionals or A/FDs are sent at a time. The always
> arrive before the old ones expire.
>
> Doug Fischer -9A Emp
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Laird Owens" <owens@aerovironment.com>
> To: "rv-list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Cheap Sectionals????
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
> >
> > I just ran across www.avmaps.com They sell sectional and other
> > aviation map products. Their sectional price is $5.99
> That's a bunch
> > lower than even the FAA sells them direct (8.00)
> >
> > Has anybody had any dealings with this company, or any other
> > recommendations of places for cheap maps that you use.
> >
> > TIA,
> >
> > Laird RV-6 820hrs
> > SoCal
Message 47
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| Subject: | Fuel Filter options (was gascolator) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "hollandm" <hollandm@pacbell.net>
I'm considering tossing the gascolator, too much trouble for too little benefit.
What alternative fuel filter is acceptable for aircraft use? I've heard that
some of the automotive types aren't recommended.
Another complication is that I have a floscan sensor mounted between the facet
pump and the bulkhead penetration and there isn't any room in that area.
Thanks
Mike Holland
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