Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:31 AM - List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? (Matt Dralle)
2. 02:00 AM - Re: Fuel Filter options (was gascolator) (Tim Lewis)
3. 04:04 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Dana Overall)
4. 04:10 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Dana Overall)
5. 05:10 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Jerry Springer)
6. 05:34 AM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (Doug Rozendaal)
7. 05:47 AM - Re: Stainless Steel Tape (DWENSING@aol.com)
8. 05:56 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) ()
9. 06:03 AM - Re: List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
10. 06:15 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Alex Peterson)
11. 06:19 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Sam Buchanan)
12. 07:21 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
13. 07:31 AM - Roller applied paint finish (Hal Rozema)
14. 07:34 AM - Sensenich Prop Wanted (Gerald Conrad)
15. 07:59 AM - Re: Fuel Filter options (was gascolator) (DAVID REEL)
16. 08:13 AM - Re: Sensenich Prop Wanted (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
17. 08:19 AM - Re: Roller applied paint finish (JOHN STARN)
18. 08:25 AM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (Laird Owens)
19. 08:32 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Wayne Reese)
20. 08:39 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (linn walters)
21. 08:40 AM - Re: Roller applied paint finish (linn walters)
22. 08:44 AM - Re: Sensenich Prop Wanted (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
23. 09:06 AM - Re: Roller applied paint finish (Bill Dube)
24. 09:40 AM - While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A (David E. Nelson)
25. 09:48 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) (Mike Robertson)
26. 10:10 AM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
27. 10:52 AM - North East - AeroElectric Seminar (Charles Rowbotham)
28. 11:02 AM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (RV_8 Pilot)
29. 11:05 AM - Re: Roller applied paint finish (Dr. Kevin P. Leathers)
30. 11:30 AM - Re: Fuel Vent Icing (Kosta Lewis)
31. 11:39 AM - Re: While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A (Jordan Grant)
32. 11:52 AM - Re: Fuel Vent Icing (Crosley, Rich)
33. 11:53 AM - Re: While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A (Bill Dube)
34. 11:58 AM - roll on paint (JOHN STARN)
35. 12:04 PM - Re: Stainless Steel Tape (Elsa & Henry)
36. 12:11 PM - Re: Roller applied paint finish (Scott Bilinski)
37. 12:34 PM - Re: Roller applied paint finish (Robert Sather)
38. 12:43 PM - Re: While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A (Bill VonDane)
39. 01:23 PM - Re: roll on paint (Scott Bilinski)
40. 01:32 PM - Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (P M Condon)
41. 02:07 PM - Re: Anti-corrosion coatings (DWENSING@aol.com)
42. 02:08 PM - Re: Sensenich Prop Wanted (Joe Hine)
43. 02:44 PM - 21 Years of the RV-Ator (Randy Richter)
44. 02:55 PM - Re: roll on paint (Kosta Lewis)
45. 02:56 PM - >Re:Stainless Steel Tape (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
46. 03:02 PM - Re: Fuel Vent Icing (Elsa & Henry)
47. 03:04 PM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (Stein Bruch)
48. 03:24 PM - Re: 21 Years of the RV-Ator (Scott Bilinski)
49. 03:24 PM - Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (Dana Overall)
50. 03:37 PM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (Allen Mecum)
51. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (Alex Peterson)
52. 04:20 PM - Re: 21 Years of the RV-Ator (Dan Checkoway)
53. 04:36 PM - Re: 21 Years of the RV-Ator (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
54. 05:56 PM - self flattening roll or brush on paint (Dr. Leathers)
55. 06:06 PM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (Dan Checkoway)
56. 06:21 PM - Re: List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? (dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle))
57. 06:39 PM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (Alex Peterson)
58. 06:50 PM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (Paul Besing)
59. 07:05 PM - Re: roll on paint (Curt Reimer)
60. 07:17 PM - Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question (Dave Smith)
61. 07:18 PM - Re: Roller applied paint finish (Gil Alexander)
62. 07:18 PM - Fuel Vent plugging variations (Kosta Lewis)
63. 07:21 PM - IFR Training (Dana Overall)
64. 07:46 PM - Roll Bar/Canopy sealing material. (Dana Overall)
65. 07:57 PM - Re: Roller applied paint finish (Gil Alexander)
66. 08:22 PM - Re: Roll Bar/Canopy sealing material. (RGray67968@aol.com)
67. 08:42 PM - Re: Fuel Vent plugging variations (Joe Hine)
68. 08:48 PM - Painting the airframe (Darwin N. Barrie)
69. 09:25 PM - Re: self flattening roll or brush on paint (JOHN STARN)
70. 09:29 PM - Off Topic But Cool (Karie Daniel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
The List Fund Raiser is going well so far this year and I wanted to say
"Thank You" to everyone that has made a Contribution already this year!
Though the generous support of Andy Gold and the Builders Bookstore (
http://www.buildersbooks.com ), I'm able to offer some truly awesome gifts
with qualifying Contributions this year. There's quite a line up and a
rather diverse set of options - certainly something for every taste and
personality. Here's a list of this year's fine options:
* List Archive CD
* Aircraft Builder's Log
* Pilot Flashlight System
* Pro Pilot Logbook
* FAR/AIM on CD
* Jeppesen Flight Bag
* Aviation History Book
* Techstar Flight Computer
Please support your Email List Community AND pick up a really slick Gift at
the same time! The SSL Secure Contribution web site can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Once again, I would like to thank everyone that has so generously supported
the continued operation and upgrade of the Lists Services here on the
Matronics servers!!
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter options (was gascolator) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <timrv6a@earthlink.net>
> I'm considering tossing the gascolator, too much trouble for too
> little benefit. What alternative fuel filter is acceptable for
> aircraft use? I've heard that some of the automotive types aren't
> recommended.
>
> Another complication is that I have a floscan sensor mounted between
> the facet pump and the bulkhead penetration and there isn't any room
> in that area.
I've been using the Fram G-3 fuel filters (auto parts store, less than $5) in
my -6A for about 600 hours. I use one from each tank en route to the fuel
selector, and one between the flowscan sensor and the boost pump. The
later filter is primarily used as an air reservoir to dampen fuel flow pulses
from the engine driven pump and the boost pump. The pulses were
causing significant flow errors before I installed the 3rd Fram G3.
I also have a gascolator.
Tim******
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD - First Flight 18 Dec 99
http://www.geocities.com/timrv6a
******
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Sam, after looking more closely at the AIM one particular points sticks out
in my discussions with Old Bob. If an alternate is named it must have a non
GPS approach if your primary is/was a GPS. I hadn't considered this and
will check into it furthur. Stick a NAV head in since most airports either
have a VOR approach, or an ILS that can be "converted" to a VOR, and you're
home free. You must have an indicator head in anyway to go along with the
GPS..........so time to look and see if one NAV head will handle both the
GPS/NAV.
Just thinking out loud.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
BTW, Mike thanks for researching all you have on the issues this and
spurring this conversation to help clear up once and for all.
One point to keep emphasising though folks, is your new bird does not have
to be, nor will be, IFR on your initial inspection.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Is your computer infected with a virus? Find out with a FREE computer virus
scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now!
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Dana Overall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>BTW, Mike thanks for researching all you have on the issues this and
>spurring this conversation to help clear up once and for all.
>
>One point to keep emphasising though folks, is your new bird does not have
>to be, nor will be, IFR on your initial inspection.
>
>
"nor well be, IFR on your initial inspection."
I guess I don't understand that statement. Maybe I missed part of the
conversation somewhere.
If you aircraft is IFR equipped then it well be IFR after inspection. IMO
Jerry
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I use Howie Keefe's Air Charts. http://www.airchart.com/index.html The whole
country in one book if you use WACs, two books if you use Sectionals. Much
easier to manage in a -4 cockpit (or a Mustang) than folding maps. I have
been using them for several years and they are the answer for small croweded
cockpits and pilots who travel across the entire country. They also have an
IFR system as well.
Air Chart has a book that contains some of the info that is not found on WAC
charts but I use the AOPA Palm PDA airport directory. It has loads of
useful info in it.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 11/4/03 7:05:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com writes:
> I'm
> very happy with the UHMW, goes on easily and doesn't wrinkle as I have seen
> on lots of RV's with the SS.
Henry,
Did you put the tape directly on the alclad aluminum? or over a primer? or
over the final paint? What would you recommend?
Dale Ensing
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <marknlisa@hometel.com>
Mike,
Please check to make sure you have the latest updates to your AIM. AOPA
maintains an HTML version of the AIM on their website for members. If you
are a member you can follow this link:
www.aopa.org/members/files/aim/chapter_1.html#1-1-20
If you aren't a member, try this link below which clarifies the AIM.
www.aopa.org/whatsnew/newsitems/1999/991213gps.html
The bottom line; you CAN use GPS in lieu of stand alone ADF or DME
equipment for IFR approach procedures (with certain restrictions), as well
as satisfying the requirement for DME above FL 240.
Mark
Sletten
---------------------------------------------
This message was sent using Home Telephone
Company's Web-Based Email interface.
http://webmail.hometel.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
11/05/2003 07:28:16 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Matt: How is your airplane coming along? when do you anticiapte being
finished and ready to fly?
Regards
Glenn Williams
Message 10
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| Subject: | IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> I guess I don't understand that statement. Maybe I missed part of the
> conversation somewhere.
> If you aircraft is IFR equipped then it well be IFR after
> inspection. IMO
>
> Jerry
Jerry, in my case, the operating limitations indicate day VFR only
during the initial test phase. After that, it simply indicates that it
must be equipped accordingly for either night and/or IFR.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Dana Overall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Sam, after looking more closely at the AIM one particular points sticks out
> in my discussions with Old Bob. If an alternate is named it must have a non
> GPS approach if your primary is/was a GPS. I hadn't considered this and
> will check into it furthur. Stick a NAV head in since most airports either
> have a VOR approach, or an ILS that can be "converted" to a VOR, and you're
> home free. You must have an indicator head in anyway to go along with the
> GPS..........so time to look and see if one NAV head will handle both the
> GPS/NAV.
>
>
> Just thinking out loud.
I think you got it, Dana. The nifty little KX125 with the integrated VOR
indicator and the strong com section is my ticket to IFR conformance! :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
11/05/2003 08:42:19 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Guys:
I am considering getting an IFR rating. what are some good
course materials to get in preparation for the Rating? I am a private pilot
and when I look at an instrument approach plate it looks like swahilli to
me. Any tips on how to read this stuff?
Do not archive
Glenn Williams
Message 13
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| Subject: | Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
Hal Rozema
VSTOL 701
Message 14
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| Subject: | Sensenich Prop Wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerald Conrad <gwc@videotron.ca>
I am looking for a Sensenich 70CM7S9-0-79 or similar prop for my 0-320
--160HP. The Collin Walker wooden prop developed a small crack & I would
like a fixed pitch metal prop. I can get new from Van's for $1870. But,
10-12 weeks delivery. Does anyone else except Sensenich supply a fixed
pitch metal prop for a RV-6A?
Gerry Conrad 514-697-0656.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Filter options (was gascolator) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I'm using a Purolator PRO-806 automotive fuel filter in the fuel supply for my
carburetted O360. The filter screen retaining nut has to be safetied by drilling
a hole through the shaft just behind it and inserting a cotter pin. That
done, the filter is good to 10 psi, will pass 35 gph before a 1/10 psi pressure
reduction can be measured, and blocks particles over 32 microns with a non-hydroscopic
nylon mesh screen that is not affected by alcohol. The clear pyrex
body permits visual preflight inspection provided you mount it where you can
see it. I put mine on the suction side of the boost pump so leakage and the lack
of flared tubing fittings are not a problem.
That said, this airplane is not flying yet so, as far as being something I know
for sure myself, the information above is just theoretical wishful thinking.
But, I just had to let you know because I love spouting all those numbers.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop Wanted |
11/05/2003 09:38:19 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
call Jay pratt at RV central he may have one or know someone that does.
Seems I recall him trying to sell one the other day.
Glenn
do not archive
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
WE TOO... Gummibear & KABONG
Do Not Archive
--- Original Message -----
From: "Hal Rozema" <hartist1@cox.net>
I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
One of our local SoCal guys who travels in his RV a LOT (600hrs/yr)
uses Air Charts as well, and loves it. I'm thinking about going that
route as well.
Thanks to all for the advise on buying sectionals.
Laird
Do Not archive
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
>I use Howie Keefe's Air Charts. http://www.airchart.com/index.html The whole
>country in one book if you use WACs, two books if you use Sectionals. Much
>easier to manage in a -4 cockpit (or a Mustang) than folding maps. I have
>been using them for several years and they are the answer for small croweded
>cockpits and pilots who travel across the entire country. They also have an
>IFR system as well.
>
>Air Chart has a book that contains some of the info that is not found on WAC
>charts but I use the AOPA Palm PDA airport directory. It has loads of
>useful info in it.
>
>Tailwinds,
>Doug Rozendaal
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Reese" <waynereese@qwest.net>
I have the King IFR DVD course I'm looking to sell for half the list
price.
Wayne
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's
--> RV-List message posted by:
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Guys:
I am considering getting an IFR rating. what are some good
course materials to get in preparation for the Rating? I am a private
pilot
and when I look at an instrument approach plate it looks like swahilli
to
me. Any tips on how to read this stuff?
Do not archive
Glenn Williams
=
==
==
==
==
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
>
>Guys:
> I am considering getting an IFR rating. what are some good
>course materials to get in preparation for the Rating? I am a private pilot
>and when I look at an instrument approach plate it looks like swahilli to
>me. Any tips on how to read this stuff?
>
Swahili is now a required course at your local Community College. After
you've completed the course, look in the approach plate book. All the
definitions of the symbols on the approach plate are there. In order of
reasonable cost, you might talk to : an IFR rated friend (fly to
breakfast and buy food), an IFR rated aquaintance (fly to lunch and buy
food), or an IFR rated instructor (he'll fly anywhere, and you don't
have to buy food!).
Linn
>
>Do not archive
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Hal Rozema wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
>
>I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
>self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
>
So is everyone else. Use a spray gun.
Linn
>
>Hal Rozema
>VSTOL 701
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop Wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Gerald Conrad wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerald Conrad <gwc@videotron.ca>
>
> I am looking for a Sensenich 70CM7S9-0-79 or similar prop for my 0-320
> --160HP. The Collin Walker wooden prop developed a small crack & I would
> like a fixed pitch metal prop. I can get new from Van's for $1870. But,
> 10-12 weeks delivery. Does anyone else except Sensenich supply a fixed
> pitch metal prop for a RV-6A?
> Gerry Conrad 514-697-0656.
>
> Try here at Rondure. Price is a little less than Van's and a little faster
> because faster inhouse processing.
> Stan Shannon <shannons@beecreek.net>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 08:36 AM 11/5/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
>
>I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
>self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
The trouble with self-leveling finishes is that they are quite
thick, and thus heavy.
>>>>>> Spray painting <<<<<
Spray painting is really not that difficult. There are quite a few
good books on the subject.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/reader/0879385235/ref=sib_dp_pt/002-6828491-6784036#reader-link
You can buy the equipment for about what you would pay someone to do it for
you. Practice on objects you don't care about with mis-mixed paint that you
can generally get cheap at the paint store. Get the same type/brand you are
planning to use.
I've found that the most overlooked requirement for good painting
is adequate light. Buy a few of the $10 florescent shop lights and prop
them up on end around the perimeter of your painting project.
The next overlooked requirement is surface preparation. All
surfaces should be gone over with a scuff pad with water with a dash of
soap, then blown dry with an air gun, then allowed to dry completely.
Set the gun for a good pattern with thinner on the side of a large
cardboard box. Fill the gun with paint and put a few test strokes on your
garbage cans. Once you get the "feel" of the way the paint lays down on the
garbage can, and are satisfied with the result, move over to the car or
airplane. Do this for every layer.
You can hardly blow it with the base coat / clear coat style
paints. If the base coat has runs, clean the panel off with thinner and
shoot it again. If the basecoat is too thin, shoot more right over it. If
the clear coat runs, wait for it to dry and sand out the runs. Too thin,
shoot it again while it is still tacky.
Don't buy cheap paint. Get the good names like DuPont or the like.
Message 24
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| Subject: | While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi All,
Quick question. Which yokes/sizes are really needed to build a 7A slow build?
At ~$100/ea I'd like to try and minimize the initial cost. BTW, these will be
for a pneumatic squeezer.
Thanks,
/\/elson
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
After re-checking with some of my more informative sources I find that my
AIMs is NOT the most current one so I must stand corrected and say that you
are correct in that the GPS can be used for ADF and DME fixes in all modes
now. Makes much more sense to me anyways. (Besdies that it means I won't
have to add anything else to the -9A that is in the paint shop right now.)
Mike Robertson
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's (more questions)
>Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 18:26:28 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>Mike, it is certainly not my intent to discredit your understanding of the
>AIM so please do not take it as such. This is an area where I feel fairly
>competent as IFR flying is something I do on a regular basis. This is a
>post from a retired ATP and fellow Bonanza flyer. He actually is an
>advisor
>to the FAA on GPS approaches to airports around the nation. He is very
>current on such issues. I only post this reply here so that others may see
>the complexity of such interpretation.
>
>"I re-checked the current AIMs and in Section 1-1-20 (GPS) paragraph F5 and
>F6 it clearly says that GPS may be used for enroute and terminal
>alternatives to ADF and DME but not for approach fixes requiring ADF or
>DME."
>
> >>>>My question to Old Bob was this<<<<
>
>It's always been my understand that an approach certified GPS with a
>current
>data base showing the position of a DME measuring point was a legal
>alternative to DME. I've fiddled around looking over the AIMs to
>substantiate my understanding, which looks wrong, but can't seem to find
>it.
> Care to chime in on my position.
>
> >>>>Old Bob's reply is as follows<<<<<
>
>
>Good Evening Dana,
>
>Have your friend look again. His/her interpretation is in error.
>
>The paragraph numbers have changed. The appropriate data is now in 1-1-21,
>but the information is the same as before.
>
>There is no sense in copying the whole chapter here. The meat is that the
>GPS may be used in lieu of an ADF or a DME in any situation during enroute,
>terminal or approach conditions except for the case of executing an NDB
>approach that does not have an overlay.
>
>In addition, any alternate named must be based on being able to execute an
>approach at that alternate without the use of GPS.
>
>This is true in any portion of the United States National Airspace system
>including flight above FL240.
>
>The easiest way to explain this is to read the paragraphs that describe
>precisely how to go about substituting the GPS data for the ADF fix or DME
>distance.
>
>If your friend would care to send me quotes of the language he/she feels
>justifies his/her position, I will be happy to point out the errors. The
>entire interpretation takes several pages of the AIM. Way too much to
>quote
>here.
>
>Happy Skies,
>
>Old Bob
>AKA
>Bob Siegfried
>Ancient Aviator
>
>Mike or anyone with GPS approach or instrument approach questions, Bob is
>without a doubt the most knowledgable person I have ever met in regards to
>instrument flying. His email address is BobsV35@aol.com
>
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY
>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>Finish kit
>Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
>http://rvflying.tripod.com
>do not archive
>
>
From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing
on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Just a few words about the chart business.
All chart dealers buy sectionals from FAA for $4.80 each. That includes us,
Sporty's (the largest chart dealer) Spruce, and everyone else. So, even at
full retail ($8) there is not a lot of margin.
The dream, of course is that subscribers would be subscribing to large
amounts of charts, cause it doesn't take any more time to package 10 then it
does for just one. But that's not typically how it works out. About a
third to half of our subscribers get just a single item. And of those who
do get multiple charts, chances are the renewal dates are spread throughout
the year, making any given shipment still for just 1-2 items.
Bottom line is that it is hard enough to maintain a viable business selling
at full retail. I can't imagine how anyone can continue to do it as low as
$5.99. $1.19 margin profit per chart minus about 25 cents for credit card
fees and another 15-20 for envelopes and receipts is .79 cents. Between
credit card processing, pulling, packing, receipt making, and record keeping
it takes about 7-8 minutes to process an order (and thats when you get good
at it) .85 cents times 8 per hour = $6.32 per hour. And thats not
including all the others tasks you do for free (inventory maintenance,
ordering, obsolete returns, accounting, advertising, tracking down expired
credit cards, special customer service, etc.......) Someone is working
pretty cheap.
We sell sectionals for $7.65 which just covers the cost of $15 per hour
salary for the guys who do the packing. Spruce and Sporty's, the two
largest volume dealers sell for the full $8. They've been around for
awhile, as have we. So if we can't make money on it, why do we bother? For
us, (Sporty's and Spruce too) its a good way to keep in touch with our
customers. This way, if we keep a relationship going, maybe you'll buy
something else from us once in a while; ...things that do actually help pay
the rent.
But for the guy's to whom charts are their primary business? I've just got
to scratch my head and wonder. It can't be much more than the dream that's
keeping them alive.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
PilotsBooks (formerly e-charts)
www.PilotsBooks.com
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | North East - AeroElectric Seminar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
All,
EAA Chapter 334 is sponsoring Bob Nuckolls - North East AeroElectic Seminar
on March 6th and 7th of 2004.
As many of us, who have taken one of Bob's seminars knows - it's one of the
best investments we've made.
We have made special arrangements with the Groton Inn and Suites (very nice)
for extra special rates. The area is also a great place to visit with many
attractions, such as Mystic Seaport, Mystic Aquarium (Ballard exploration
center), Mystic Village, Watch Hill/Westerly, RI and many other activities
for a spouse/significant other, as well a two great casinos.
Check out Bob's website WWW. aeroelectric.com
Mark your calendars and register early,
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
President EAA chapter 334
Is your computer infected with a virus? Find out with a FREE computer virus
scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now!
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
King does the best video, IMO. Jepp, ASA and Gleim are good.
Go through the videos/dvds completely once or more. Get the test prep books
and go through them 2,3 times or as necessary. Go back to the video. Take
the written test.
Start with the dual and get the basics for all phases of IFR down. If you
have the methods and procedures down pretty well, fly with a safety pilot
and practice building the required time. Get back with the CFII, prep for
and take the ride. The whole flying system will make much more sense and
you'll be a much better pilot afterward.
Good luck.
Bryan Jones -8, CFII
Pearland, Texas
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Reese" <waynereese@qwest.net>
>
>I have the King IFR DVD course I'm looking to sell for half the list
>price.
>Wayne
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's
>
>--> RV-List message posted by:
>glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
>
>Guys:
> I am considering getting an IFR rating. what are some good
>course materials to get in preparation for the Rating? I am a private
>pilot
>and when I look at an instrument approach plate it looks like swahilli
>to
>me. Any tips on how to read this stuff?
>
>Do not archive
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>
>>==
>==
>==
>==
>
>
Is your computer infected with a virus? Find out with a FREE computer virus
scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now!
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
West Marine sells a yacht paint that has a beautiful self-leveling glossy
finish when applied with a roller. I have used it for years on my boats. I
have a can of it at home. If you are interested, I'll pull it out and get
the particulars for you.
Doc
----- Original Message -----
From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Roller applied paint finish
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
> WE TOO... Gummibear & KABONG
> Do Not Archive
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "Hal Rozema" <hartist1@cox.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>
> I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
> self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
>
>
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>I saw a story this morning where Bruce Bohannon's aircraft became a
glider >during an altitude record attempt because the fuel vents iced
over....
Well, he flies at higher altitudes than us "normal" pilots but it is a
problem that can happen to anyone.
My fuel vents are sections of vent line faired in with a piece of model
airplane aluminum strut material wrapped around them, airfoil shape. The
vent hole, of course, faces forwards. Being an airfoil shape <MAY> make
them less susceptible to ice. The vent hole is always part of my
preflight inspection, of course, even though we don't have mud daubers
here in Colorado. Both vents reside in the "trough" that the cooling air
escapes from the engine/cowling and where the exhaust exits. The right
one in particular is somewhat grey from the exhaust hitting near it
(previously covered in the length of the exhaust discussion). That one
for sure is not going to ice over. I like the look better than the
bent-piece-of-tubing look and I think they may work better. Don't things
that look good work better??
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jordan Grant" <jgrant@sw.rr.com>
I have only the standard yoke that came with my Avery dimpler tool. Its like
2" or something - I think its the shallowest one. I'm almost totally done
with my metal work and I've been able to make it work. The bigger yokes come
in handy sometimes, but they are not impossible to do without.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G (reserved)
Inst. Panel and Systems
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Subject: RV-List: While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi All,
Quick question. Which yokes/sizes are really needed to build a 7A slow
build?
At ~$100/ea I'd like to try and minimize the initial cost. BTW, these will
be
for a pneumatic squeezer.
Thanks,
/\/elson
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Icing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Crosley, Rich" <RCROSLEY@HRTEXTRON.TEXTRON.COM>
I put a small hole in the back side of the vent tube as an alternate air
source. You could even put the hole above the gear leg door cover, on the
RV-8, and have it completely out of the slip stream. Just an idea
Rich Crosley
Palmdale, CA
RV-8, canopy and engine
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 11:39 AM 11/5/2003 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
>
>
>Hi All,
>
>Quick question. Which yokes/sizes are really needed to build a 7A slow
>build?
I have a 4 inch thin nose:
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=SNYT45&variation=&aitem=11&mitem=13
My squeezer came with 2 inch regular yoke:
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/prodinfo.asp?number=SNY20&variation=&aitem=5&mitem=13
There are very few instances where a deep yoke would be a problem,
and lots of times where you need the reach. Thus, I would opt for a deeper
"regular" yoke if I was given a choice.
The thin nose is very nice for getting in tight spots like the
trailing edge, (but you can't dimple with it.)
Of course, I also have "Mongo Squeeze", a CP-351 with 9 inch
alligator jaws.
http://www.killacycle.com/mongo1.JPG
Here is a CP 214C look-alike on Ebay. Looks like a twin piston model.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2569766527
Message 34
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
If you would, looks like we either must build an in-hanger spray booth or a
roller paint. Do Not Archive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Roller applied paint finish
> West Marine sells a yacht paint that has a beautiful self-leveling glossy
> finish when applied with a roller. I have used it for years on my boats. I
> have a can of it at home. If you are interested, I'll pull it out and get
> the particulars for you.
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Stainless Steel Tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Hi Dale,
I put the UHMW tape on after the flaps were finally painted and installed on
the 'plane. It's a big job to get the hinge pins in and I certainly didn't
want to take them off once done to do any work on them. To prevent
scratching the paint until the UHMW tape was installed I used a strip of 5
mil artist's Mylar over the tape area until all the installation adjustments
and rigging were complete.But, beforehand, I made sure the affected surface
area was spotlessly clean and washed down with solvent
Then retracting the flaps, I slid out the Mylar and marked a line with the
Sharpie on the flaps to show where the edge of the tape should be aligned
to.
Then I slid the Mylar back in until the flaps were fully lowered and the
actuator linkage disconnected (in my case at the flap weldment) in which
case the flap hangs down vertically. Then the tape was applied after a final
clean of the leading edge flange. That's a two person job, one to hold and
align the roll while the other peels back the "stickum" masking tape and
finally sticks it to the flap following the forward edge of the marked
line. The tape I got from Van's was just the right width so no trimming was
require there.
Bottom line: With the flaps fully retracted, can't see the tape.
Happy taping---Cheers!----Henry Hore
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
It would be interesting to paint a 1 square foot piece of aluminium and
weight before and after paint Then calc out how many SQ feet the RV is. I
bet putting it on with a roller will add..............50+ lbs?
At 09:58 AM 11/5/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers"
<DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
>West Marine sells a yacht paint that has a beautiful self-leveling glossy
>finish when applied with a roller. I have used it for years on my boats. I
>have a can of it at home. If you are interested, I'll pull it out and get
>the particulars for you.
>
>Doc
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Roller applied paint finish
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>>
>> WE TOO... Gummibear & KABONG
>> Do Not Archive
>>
>> --- Original Message -----
>> From: "Hal Rozema" <hartist1@cox.net>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <zenith-list@matronics.com>
>>
>> I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
>> self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
>>
>>
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Sather" <sather@charter.net>
The two part goes on very very thin. I don't believe it will weigh that
much at all.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Roller applied paint finish
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> It would be interesting to paint a 1 square foot piece of aluminium and
> weight before and after paint Then calc out how many SQ feet the RV is. I
> bet putting it on with a roller will add..............50+ lbs?
>
>
> At 09:58 AM 11/5/03 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers"
> <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
> >
> >West Marine sells a yacht paint that has a beautiful self-leveling glossy
> >finish when applied with a roller. I have used it for years on my boats.
I
> >have a can of it at home. If you are interested, I'll pull it out and get
> >the particulars for you.
> >
> >Doc
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Roller applied paint finish
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
> >>
> >> WE TOO... Gummibear & KABONG
> >> Do Not Archive
> >>
> >> --- Original Message -----
> >> From: "Hal Rozema" <hartist1@cox.net>
> >> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <zenith-list@matronics.com>
> >>
> >> I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
> >> self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Just my opinion, but...
Sell the pneumatic squeezer (you don't need it), and get a Tatco squeezer
with the 2" yoke, the 3" yoke, the 2"x2" yoke, and the thin nose yoke...
You will come out ahead in the wallet, and never look back...
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A
www.vondane.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Subject: RV-List: While yokes are _really_ needed for a 7A
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi All,
Quick question. Which yokes/sizes are really needed to build a 7A slow
build?
At ~$100/ea I'd like to try and minimize the initial cost. BTW, these will
be
for a pneumatic squeezer.
Thanks,
/\/elson
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: roll on paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I built a in garage (2 car) paint booth out of PVC pipe and plastic sheet
(Visqueen?) I had a fan pushing air in through 2 furnace filters, and air
exiciting through 6 furnace filters. Had to replace the exit air filters
several times though. I bet the whole thing cost me 150 bucks not counting
the fan which was about 45. Use good exit filters and ZERO over spray will
escape.
I painted the fuse took it to the airport. Did the wings and installed
them, then the tail and smaller pieces. I must say the painting process
takes a LONG time to do it right, especially the prep work of the
fiberglass parts. Between the fiberglass prep work and painting it added a
good 4 months plus to the build time.
At 11:58 AM 11/5/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
>If you would, looks like we either must build an in-hanger spray booth or a
>roller paint. Do Not Archive KABONG
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Dr. Kevin P. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Roller applied paint finish
>
>
>> West Marine sells a yacht paint that has a beautiful self-leveling glossy
>> finish when applied with a roller. I have used it for years on my boats. I
>> have a can of it at home. If you are interested, I'll pull it out and get
>> the particulars for you.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish/buff out some
micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Anti-corrosion coatings |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 11/4/03 11:04:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, j1j2h3@juno.com
writes:
> There are other paint systems that
> will
> >give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy.
>
> Okay, Dale. Don't keep us in suspense. What are they?
>
> Jim Hasper - RV-7
Most major paint companies would have coatings of this type. Corrosion
resistance is usually measured in a humidity chamber or sometimes in a salt spray
booth. These are ASTM test and the prospective paint supplier can give you the
data to compare vs their epoxies. Also, the test are usually run on cold rolled
steel panels.
Dale Ensing
Message 42
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| Subject: | Sensenich Prop Wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Gerry
For the rest of us that fly Colins prop, could you give us a bit more info
on the crack. Where it developed, how big, or long etc.
Thanks
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gerald Conrad
Subject: RV-List: Sensenich Prop Wanted
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerald Conrad <gwc@videotron.ca>
I am looking for a Sensenich 70CM7S9-0-79 or similar prop for my 0-320
--160HP. The Collin Walker wooden prop developed a small crack & I would
like a fixed pitch metal prop. I can get new from Van's for $1870. But,
10-12 weeks delivery. Does anyone else except Sensenich supply a fixed
pitch metal prop for a RV-6A?
Gerry Conrad 514-697-0656.
Message 43
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| Subject: | 21 Years of the RV-Ator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Richter <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
Do any of you have this book? I saw it on Andy Gold's "Builder's
Bookstore" website as I was finding out how to make a contribution to
Matt's fundraiser.
Has it been of use to you? Better yet, would you recommend it to someone
you like?
I'm either on the verge of buying an RV-7QB kit in the next couple of
weeks, or it'll be about a year before I can do it. Either way, I'm
trying to start a collection of useful resources.
Thanks in advance for your inputs!
Randy
Message 44
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>I had a fan pushing air in through 2 furnace filters.....
I assume your fan was a sealed motor type. Do you have a source? How big
was it to be effective? An open or Exposed motor can cause a KABOOM to
occur with flammable paint fumes as the brushes are hanging out in the
open, subject to producing sparks. Which means you don't want to use
your K-Mart box fan.
Michael
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:Stainless Steel Tape |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Whichever tape you use; be SURE the edge doesn't catch when the flap is fully
extended !
I used my heat gun to warm the plastic tape so it went down smoothly.
Bob Olds A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
RV-4 , N1191X , Flying Now
Charleston, Arkansas
"Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers"
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Icing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Michael; I've got news for you!!
>them less susceptible to ice. The vent hole is always part of my
>preflight inspection, of course, even though we <don't have mud daubers>
>here in Colorado.>>>!!!
Several years ago my cousin Georgie Newbery flew his Bonanza from Florida to
Bolder Colo to visit his brother and the plane was parked outside for two
weeks. He took his plane up to do some training of his wife and they did
three circuits and the engine quit on climb-out. He did a magnificent job of
squeezing the plane into a tiny field at the back of farm buildings but went
into a ditch. No injuries but the Bonanza was a write-off. Cause: Mud
daubers had clogged both fuel vents! Couldn't have been there on the flight
from FLA. I saw the write-up in the local paper with a Photo of a very
wrinkled Bonanza at a 45 degree angle in the ditch!
Cheers!!----- Henry Hore
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Here's my canopy polishing "tricks".
Try to always "wet sand" the plexi, the results are much better.
If the scratches are deep (you can catch a fingernail on them), start out by
using 600grit wet/dry sandpaper and sand in one direction until the scratch
dissapears.
Move to 1000 grit, sanding the opposite direction until all the 600 grit
marks are gone.
Move then to 1500 grit, once again removing all previous mars,
Then, polish with a buffing wheel using 3M Liquid Polishing Compound
(Carquest/Napa, etc..).
This should remove all sandpaper marks and leave the canopy looking new. Go
over it with the Plexus and there you have it.
I just finished restoring a REALLY messed up bubble canopy, full of
scratches, cuts, and massive abrasions (had 6" cargo straps over it during a
move on a trailer)-- NOT of my doing, but I helped fix it. Took me a good 8
hours, but the canopy looks new!
If the scratches are superficial, then start right out with the 1200-1500
grit sandpaper and polishing coumpound.
If the scratches are only light marks, then just use the polishing compoun
alone.
IMHO, Plexus is just about the best plexi cleaner out there, although not
the cheapest.
Contact me off list if you need a more detailed explanation or have any
questions. I've done a lot of plexi work, and can give you the skinny on
all the "snake oil" methods out there.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish/buff out some
micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: 21 Years of the RV-Ator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I only wish that Van's had "pushed it more when I first started. All sorts
of great tips and interesting reading. I consider it a must have. I finally
ordered it 6 months before I finished the plane!!!
At 05:43 PM 11/5/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Richter <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
>
>Do any of you have this book? I saw it on Andy Gold's "Builder's
>Bookstore" website as I was finding out how to make a contribution to
>Matt's fundraiser.
>
>Has it been of use to you? Better yet, would you recommend it to someone
>you like?
>
>I'm either on the verge of buying an RV-7QB kit in the next couple of
>weeks, or it'll be about a year before I can do it. Either way, I'm
>trying to start a collection of useful resources.
>
>Thanks in advance for your inputs!
>
>Randy
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: IFR, HOmebuilts, and TSO's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Jerry, several weeks ago the thread got started that someone's DAR was not
going to sign their aircraft as IFR because it didn't have a bunch of TSO's
equipment on board. This is when Mike started researching for his post of a
couple days ago.
The only way it can be signed off as IFR is after test flying to
authenticate the install of the equipment and "certify" that it performs as
required for IFR flight. None of this can be completed until after the
airplane is flying, and first you must hold that piece of paper saying your
project is now an airplane. Just get your airworthiness slip first, then do
the IFR paperwork yourself.
A builder of an experimental airplane can install IFR equipment and
"certify" as to it's function for IFR flight. You can certainly have all
the stuff installed but why go through all the hassle of convining your
inspector as too it's legality. That is something you can do yourself at a
later date. Just don't beat your head up against a tree unless you have
too.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account is over
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: Allen Mecum <mecum@pacbell.net>
I never post anything so this is a first.
I know that there is a product called Mirror Glaze by Mequiars that you can use
to polish plastic and glass to remove small scratches. However, not sure how
I will work on canopies.
here is the link to Mequiars plastic care products
http://www.meguiars.com/product_showroom/showproducts_template.cfm?SrcLine=BP
Allen Mecum
P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish/buff out some
micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> ----
>
> What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been
> using Plexus with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need
> to polish/buff out some micro fine scratches so I am
> wondering what others are using to do this? At the AOPA
> convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing
> kit.....I am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I
> realize that micro-mesh and other similar companies have a
> product...I am wondering what else is out there that polishes
> out micro scratches and all that. There are canopies on RV's
> at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of the
> mold-there so clean and scratch free...
There is a system called Scratch Off which has four different polishes.
It is designed for heavy scratch removal (successively finer grit), but
for "cobweb" scratch removal, using the finest polish should work very
well. It comes with a foam buffing pad designed to be put in a drill.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: 21 Years of the RV-Ator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
No doubt it's worth every cent. Somebody mentioned it's becoming outdated,
but I think that's an overstatement.
If you subscribe to the RVator (don't we all), then you've already
rationalized the purpose of the book...so if you don't have a huge archive
of 'em, I think "21 Years" is well worth the price. I wished I got my copy
much earlier than I did.
Best of luck with the trip/purchase, and hope to meet you when you're out
this way.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Richter" <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: 21 Years of the RV-Ator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Randy Richter <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
>
> Do any of you have this book? I saw it on Andy Gold's "Builder's
> Bookstore" website as I was finding out how to make a contribution to
> Matt's fundraiser.
>
> Has it been of use to you? Better yet, would you recommend it to someone
> you like?
>
> I'm either on the verge of buying an RV-7QB kit in the next couple of
> weeks, or it'll be about a year before I can do it. Either way, I'm
> trying to start a collection of useful resources.
>
> Thanks in advance for your inputs!
>
> Randy
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: 21 Years of the RV-Ator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Randy,
You are welcome to check it out for yourself, and if you don't like it send
it back for a full refund.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Richter <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: 21 Years of the RV-Ator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Randy Richter <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
>
> Do any of you have this book? I saw it on Andy Gold's "Builder's
> Bookstore" website as I was finding out how to make a contribution to
> Matt's fundraiser.
>
> Has it been of use to you? Better yet, would you recommend it to someone
> you like?
>
> I'm either on the verge of buying an RV-7QB kit in the next couple of
> weeks, or it'll be about a year before I can do it. Either way, I'm
> trying to start a collection of useful resources.
>
> Thanks in advance for your inputs!
>
> Randy
>
>
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | self flattening roll or brush on paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Hi Gummibear and Kabong,
The paint I was referring to is Interlux "Brightside" polyurethane.
It is made in Union NJ 908-686-1300.
I have used it on my boats for many years. It goes on easily with brush or roller,
and then it flattens out almost immediately. It dries hard, and I mean really
hard. I have a can in my storeroom that I took the info. from today. It had
lots of paint on the sides of the can, and I tried to scratch it with my fingernail
and then with a ballpoint pen. I also tried to bend the can to make it
separate from the label. It leaves a very glossy finish that is quite hard, but
also quite flexible.
Please understand that I am not necessarily recommending this product for your
airplane. I simply do not have the knowledge or experience to do so. However,
the stuff is what it is. maybe it's worth checking out!
Cheers
Doc
BearHawk Patrol #P002
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Another option...
Micro-Mesh is excellent stuff. The kit has "cusioned abrasives" (basically
wet/dry sandpaper but cloth, not paper) in increasingly fine steps, with a
compound to finish up. I had overspray on my wing tip lenses, and I used
Micro-Mesh to sand it off and then smooth to a clear finish.
I haven't used it on the canopy (yet), but I wouldn't hesitate to do so.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/micromeshscratch.php
Best of luck,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
>
>
> > ----
> >
> > What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been
> > using Plexus with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need
> > to polish/buff out some micro fine scratches so I am
> > wondering what others are using to do this? At the AOPA
> > convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing
> > kit.....I am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I
> > realize that micro-mesh and other similar companies have a
> > product...I am wondering what else is out there that polishes
> > out micro scratches and all that. There are canopies on RV's
> > at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of the
> > mold-there so clean and scratch free...
>
>
> There is a system called Scratch Off which has four different polishes.
> It is designed for heavy scratch removal (successively finer grit), but
> for "cobweb" scratch removal, using the finest polish should work very
> well. It comes with a foam buffing pad designed to be put in a drill.
>
> Alex Peterson
> Maple Grove, MN
> RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
> www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: List Fund Raiser - Wow, Have You Seen The Free Gifts? |
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com (Matt Dralle)
>--------------
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
>Matt: How is your airplane coming along? when do you anticiapte being
>finished and ready to fly?
>
>Regards
> Glenn Williams
>--------------
Well, I wish it was coming along faster! There always seems to be a
new distraction lately. Last I was working on the instrument panel. I
emailed a DXF CAD drawing of what I wanted to Steve Davis of the Panel
Pilot and he set me back a Plexi version so that I could trial fit all
of the instruments. I found a few things I didn't like, modified the
CAD and emailed it to him. He cut a second Plexi version and sent it
to me. It was prefect, so he cut me one out of aluminium. Totally
awesome! I can't recommend the process highly enough. Steve's a great
guy too, and easy to work with.
I did a whole website on my process with lots of cool pictures. Steve
even emailed a few of pictures of the gantry milling machine cutting
out the panel! Cool! Here's a link to the site:
http://www.matronics.com/MattsRV4/NewPanel/index.html
I was also working on painting the canopy frame and roll bar. I'm
using a dark, golden metallic. The motor mount came out beautiful, but
I've been having some trouble with the canopy frame - runs, don't you
know... Its going to look great if I can ever get it just right...
Matt
--
Matt G. Dralle | Matronics | P.O. Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 Voice | 925-606-6281 FAX | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ W.W.W. | Featuring Products For Aircraft
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> Another option...
>
> Micro-Mesh is excellent stuff. The kit has "cusioned
> abrasives" (basically wet/dry sandpaper but cloth, not paper)
> in increasingly fine steps, with a compound to finish up. I
> had overspray on my wing tip lenses, and I used Micro-Mesh to
> sand it off and then smooth to a clear finish.
>
> I haven't used it on the canopy (yet), but I wouldn't
> hesitate to do so.
Dan, I'm glad your experience with Micro Mesh was good. Mine sucked. I
tried and failed to remove a scratch from my windscreen with the stuff.
I suppose if I worked for a few weeks on it, I could have finished the
job. Scratch Off was 10 times less work. I like it when the drill
works and I don't.
Alex Peterson
Maple Grove, MN
RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I have used it on the canopy. It does work, however you need to be careful
not to "sand" the areas around your objective area. The purpose of the
finer steps in sand paper is to remove the scratches from the previous one.
If you don't hit the previous papers marks, you will have fine scratches all
around the area. I recommend feathering the job by using the finer
sandpapers progressively out further to ensure that you get all the
scratches out.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Another option...
>
> Micro-Mesh is excellent stuff. The kit has "cusioned abrasives"
(basically
> wet/dry sandpaper but cloth, not paper) in increasingly fine steps, with a
> compound to finish up. I had overspray on my wing tip lenses, and I used
> Micro-Mesh to sand it off and then smooth to a clear finish.
>
> I haven't used it on the canopy (yet), but I wouldn't hesitate to do so.
>
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/micromeshscratch.php
>
> Best of luck,
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
> question ??
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@usjet.net>
> >
> >
> > > ----
> > >
> > > What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been
> > > using Plexus with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need
> > > to polish/buff out some micro fine scratches so I am
> > > wondering what others are using to do this? At the AOPA
> > > convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing
> > > kit.....I am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I
> > > realize that micro-mesh and other similar companies have a
> > > product...I am wondering what else is out there that polishes
> > > out micro scratches and all that. There are canopies on RV's
> > > at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of the
> > > mold-there so clean and scratch free...
> >
> >
> > There is a system called Scratch Off which has four different polishes.
> > It is designed for heavy scratch removal (successively finer grit), but
> > for "cobweb" scratch removal, using the finest polish should work very
> > well. It comes with a foam buffing pad designed to be put in a drill.
> >
> > Alex Peterson
> > Maple Grove, MN
> > RV6-A N66AP 397 hours
> > www.usfamily.net/web/alexpeterson
> >
> >
>
>
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: roll on paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mb.sympatico.ca>
> >I had a fan pushing air in through 2 furnace filters.....
>
> I assume your fan was a sealed motor type. Do you have a source? How big
> was it to be effective? An open or Exposed motor can cause a KABOOM to
> occur with flammable paint fumes as the brushes are hanging out in the
> open, subject to producing sparks. Which means you don't want to use
> your K-Mart box fan.
I'm pretty sure most small box fans use brushless induction motors. In fact,
almost all small AC motors are brushless induction motors. There shouldn't
be any sparks. I used a couple of cheap box fans for my paint booth and they
worked great. One on the inlet side pushing through the filters and one on
the outlet side. I ran the outlet fan on high and the inlet fan on medium
and had a good draft without blowing out or sucking in the the polyethylene
walls of the booth. This can can happen if you only put a fan at one end
Curt
Message 60
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| Subject: | Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
Okay, I've been checking into Iridite 14-2 and found a local distributor
here in Spokane. When we talked about different application methods, he
mentioned that McDermid makes some kind of kit to go with it to make it
'brushable', although he was short on details. Upon further searching
of the archives and the net, I ran across a reference to an additive
that you put into 14-2 to make it brushable (sorry, can't remember the
name).
Do folks use 14-2 as is mixed, or are they putting in this additive for
when they want to brush/spray the solution?
Second question: the sales guy suggested taking the parts to a local
shop that specializes in dipping. He said that he knew business had
been slow for them, so they would probably cut a good deal. Has anybody
else used a shop like this? If so, how much did it cost you?
--
Dave
http://www.rv10project.net
Message 61
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| Subject: | Re: Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Hal,
Even though all of the aircraft folks use a spray gun, it is
typical for the Imron class of paints to be applied by brush/roller for
marine uses.
In general, it's the same paint with a different thinner.
This web site give the Sterling paint methods for marine use.
http://www.detcomarine.com/sltopcoat.htm#BRUSH%20GLOSS%20APPLICATION
The EXACT same paint for aircraft spray application is described
here...
http://www.detcomarine.com/slacguide.htm#AIRCRAFT%20TOPCOAT%20APPLICATION
It is possible, but I don't know anyone who has done it.....
gil in Tucson
At 11:41 AM 11/5/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Hal Rozema wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
> >
> >I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
> >self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
> >
>So is everyone else. Use a spray gun.
>Linn
>
> >
> >Hal Rozema
> >VSTOL 701
> >
> >
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 62
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| Subject: | Fuel Vent plugging variations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>Michael; I've got news for you!!
>>them less susceptible to ice. The vent hole is always part of my
>>preflight inspection, of course, even though we <don't have mud
daubers>
>>here in Colorado.>>>!!!
>Several years ago my cousin Georgie Newbery flew his Bonanza from
Florida to
Bolder Colo to visit his brother and the plane was parked outside for
two
weeks. He took his plane up to do some training of his wife and they did
three circuits and the engine quit on climb-out. He did a magnificent
job of
squeezing the plane into a tiny field at the back of farm buildings but
went
into a ditch. No injuries but the Bonanza was a write-off. Cause: Mud
>daubers had clogged both fuel vents....
Bummer.
Well, let's put it this way: I have never had my fuel vents or hole of
any kind (!) daubed with mud and I've been here for a really LONG time.
I know "mud daubers" are certain kinds of wasps that I do not believe
are indigenous to mountainous Colorado, although their habitat is listed
as "throughout the United States". I still take a peek at those ol' fuel
vents though, not to mention my pitot tube prior to every flight, just
looking for them, or anything else that has decided to set up shop in
there. 'Specially if the airplane has been 'sitting out' for two weeks,
which it never does.
Yikes. Not fly for two weeks in the summer? Never happen.
Thanks for setting me straight. I'll be looking for them.
Here's to a Zen approach to preflights.
Michael
Do not archive.
Message 63
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>King does the best video, IMO. Jepp, ASA and Gleim are good.
>
>Go through the videos/dvds completely once or more. Get the test prep
>books
>and go through them 2,3 times or as necessary. Go back to the video. Take
>the written test.
>
>Start with the dual and get the basics for all phases of IFR down. If you
>have the methods and procedures down pretty well, fly with a safety pilot
>and practice building the required time
Glenn, I could not agree more with the text of the post above. IFR training
has a strong basis in methods and procedures. These methods and procedures
are standardized in the system so what works here works there. I used King
for my private, instrument and commercial tests and would do it again If
you follow the King tapes you will be able to communicate in verbage only
known to a few:-)
I don't think it's changed but I had to have a total of 40 hours of hood
time, 20 hours of dual, which included one long cross country. The other 20
hours is just hood time with a safety pilot. It'll take a fair share of
that initial 20 hours to good feel for the procedures. During the other 20
hours, just don't cheat yourself go at each flight with a plan and stick to
it.
Have fun, my instrument training was some of the most satisfying training I
have ever done. I know it made me a better pilot. See the ground for first
200 on climbout and again the last 200 feet when it's time to land, wipe the
sweat off and change shirts.
But no matter where you go expect to hear the following, they're hung up on
the 10 minute thing for some reason, "cleared as filed climb maintain 3000,
contact $&
approach 123.5, expect higher in 10", Course as soon as you
say, "witcha level 3" you get "climb maintain 9000". I think it just makes
them feel in charge;-)
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 64
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| Subject: | Roll Bar/Canopy sealing material. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
OK, gang before I do my rear canopy skirt I want to make sure I have my
sealing material between the roll bar and canopy frame. There was a 7 at
SNF last year that had Cessna Citation door seal as a gap seal. He used
this because (excuse my politically incorrectness here) it has
tits/protrusions/prongs......whatever, on the backside so all you have to do
is drill #30 holes and snap the seal in. Made for a very clean install.
Anybody have any idea where to start looking for such an animal.
Anybody care to chime in on what has worked and what has not worked.
Also, I'm sure someone has some pics of various "designs" of the outer
canopy handle. Gotta do something with the block of alum. to make it look
better. Got any URLs or pics you can send me?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: Roller applied paint finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Follow-up with respect to the posting (with no data) about brushing being
heavier..
Again, from the links below.....
Brushing (marine).....
"Practical coverage for brush application is between 200 and 400 square
feet per catalyzed gallon depending upon coating thickness."
Spraying (aircraft)
"Topcoat....................200-250 sq. ft. per mixed gal."
Looks like it's a toss-up, with brushing/rolling possibly lighter....
gil A
At 08:24 PM 11/5/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
>
>Hal,
> Even though all of the aircraft folks use a spray gun, it is
>typical for the Imron class of paints to be applied by brush/roller for
>marine uses.
>
> In general, it's the same paint with a different thinner.
>
> This web site give the Sterling paint methods for marine use.
>
>http://www.detcomarine.com/sltopcoat.htm#BRUSH%20GLOSS%20APPLICATION
>
> The EXACT same paint for aircraft spray application is described
>here...
>
>http://www.detcomarine.com/slacguide.htm#AIRCRAFT%20TOPCOAT%20APPLICATION
>
> It is possible, but I don't know anyone who has done it.....
>
> gil in Tucson
>
>At 11:41 AM 11/5/2003 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >
> >Hal Rozema wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
> > >
> > >I'm looking for any experience and recommendations for a high gloss,
> > >self leveling roller applied finish for an aluminum bird
> > >
> >So is everyone else. Use a spray gun.
> >Linn
> >
> > >
> > >Hal Rozema
> > >VSTOL 701
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
>77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 66
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| Subject: | Re: Roll Bar/Canopy sealing material. |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Hi Dana,
The 'D' seal from JCWhitney works great on the sliders. It's hollow and looks
like a capital letter 'D' from the end. Peel the protective coating from the
flat part thus exposing the tape and it sticks right where you want it and
makes a great seal AND gives a nice finished appearance. Cost is about 12 bucks.
You'll want to fill the gap left between the roll bar and the windscreen
fairing with micro to provide a 'flat' surface first. Don't permanently install
your 'D' seal till after final paint......guess that'll be next year :
).
You might want to make a lightening bolt or Magicians Wand or something out
of the outer canopy latch handle to match the paint on 'Black Magic'
:
)........buddy!!
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
OK, gang before I do my rear canopy skirt I want to make sure I have my
sealing material between the roll bar and canopy frame. There was a 7 at
SNF last year that had Cessna Citation door seal as a gap seal. He used
this because (excuse my politically incorrectness here) it has
tits/protrusions/prongs......whatever, on the backside so all you have to do
is drill #30 holes and snap the seal in. Made for a very clean install.
Anybody have any idea where to start looking for such an animal.
Anybody care to chime in on what has worked and what has not worked.
Also, I'm sure someone has some pics of various "designs" of the outer
canopy handle. Gotta do something with the block of alum. to make it look
better. Got any URLs or pics you can send me?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 67
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| Subject: | Fuel Vent plugging variations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
Hi Guys
Here is a little tip if you do have bugs of any kind build nests in your
vents. I have had this happen and although I am not sure what they were,
the just hatched little ones that I got out looked like wasps of some kind.
The nests were about 2 inches up the vents, both were plugged, and were
quite solid. Nothing I tried got more that a few grains of dirt out of the
line. In the end, I got about an 8 foot length of clear surgical tubing (
guy in the next hanger is a doctor) put the end over the vent and sucked. I
used a long length because I didn't want to suck anything into my mouth.
Any way sucked them things out really well. Afterwards I got someone to
lean on the wing to cover the tank end of the vent and sucked some fuel
through to make sure the line was clean. I keep a cover on them now when
parked. I'm glad I discovered this on the ground, because I think I would
have had an engine failure if I had gone flying with them as plugged as they
were.
Joe Hine
RV4 C-FYTQ
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>Michael; I've got news for you!!
>>them less susceptible to ice. The vent hole is always part of my
>>preflight inspection, of course, even though we <don't have mud
daubers>
>>here in Colorado.>>>!!!
>Several years ago my cousin Georgie Newbery flew his Bonanza from
Florida to
Bolder Colo to visit his brother and the plane was parked outside for
two
weeks. He took his plane up to do some training of his wife and they did
three circuits and the engine quit on climb-out. He did a magnificent
job of
squeezing the plane into a tiny field at the back of farm buildings but
went
into a ditch. No injuries but the Bonanza was a write-off. Cause: Mud
>daubers had clogged both fuel vents....
Bummer.
Well, let's put it this way: I have never had my fuel vents or hole of
any kind (!) daubed with mud and I've been here for a really LONG time.
I know "mud daubers" are certain kinds of wasps that I do not believe
are indigenous to mountainous Colorado, although their habitat is listed
as "throughout the United States". I still take a peek at those ol' fuel
vents though, not to mention my pitot tube prior to every flight, just
looking for them, or anything else that has decided to set up shop in
there. 'Specially if the airplane has been 'sitting out' for two weeks,
which it never does.
Yikes. Not fly for two weeks in the summer? Never happen.
Thanks for setting me straight. I'll be looking for them.
Here's to a Zen approach to preflights.
Michael
Do not archive.
Message 68
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<rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Painting the airframe |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I am considering painting my plane myself. From those who painted their own planes
I'd like to get some input into the type of spray booth they used or made
and any types of fixtures that were used to hold the various components.
I'm thinking that one of those car canopies would be big enough and I could enclose
it to make a fairly sanitary situation. I live in an airpark but there is
lots of construction going on and it is very dusty here so a spray booth of some
type is a must.
Thanks in advance.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Finish kit stuff
Message 69
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| Subject: | Re: self flattening roll or brush on paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Thanks Doc, and thanks to those others who had ideas and information on
painting methods. Will keep the lists posted IF (Gummi's opinion) or WHEN
(mine) we paint HRII N561FS. Do Not Archive KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
Subject: RV-List: self flattening roll or brush on paint
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dr. Leathers" <DrLeathers@822heal.com>
>
> Hi Gummibear and Kabong,
>
> The paint I was referring to is Interlux "Brightside" polyurethane.
> It is made in Union NJ 908-686-1300.
Message 70
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| Subject: | Off Topic But Cool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
The Concorde made it's final flight today to BFI in Seattle to rest at the Boeing
Museum of Flight. A few buddies and I flew in from Harvey to watch the event.
It was like flying into KOSH! We circled for a half hour outside the pattern
before he could get us in. Just as we hit the down wind the tower announced
that we were the last ones that were cleared to land and he kicked everyone else
out. On final the Concorde made a pass directly over us. We promptly landed
and parked just in time to watch it land.
The tower had it's hands full today and did an outstanding job getting everyone
in safely. I don't think they expected all the traffic. After it was over I watched
several RV flights of two departing, almost as cool as seeing the Concorde...almost.
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA.
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