Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:56 AM - IFR tibbits-long and little OT (Dana Overall)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: Fuel Vent plugging variations (linn walters)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: Painting the airframe (linn walters)
4. 05:51 AM - Re: Sensenich Prop Wanted (Gerald Conrad)
5. 05:54 AM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
6. 06:12 AM - Re: Painting the airframe (JOHN STARN)
7. 06:13 AM - Re: roll on paint (Scott Bilinski)
8. 06:34 AM - Re: Painting the airframe (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
9. 06:40 AM - Re: Fuel Vent plugging variations (Larry Bowen)
10. 07:10 AM - Re: roll on paint (kempthornes)
11. 08:14 AM - Re: roll on paint (Scott Bilinski)
12. 08:39 AM - Re: Fuel Vents (Mark Phillips)
13. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (Dave Mader)
14. 08:54 AM - Re: Painting the airframe (linn walters)
15. 11:22 AM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (Stein Bruch)
16. 11:56 AM - This is a real story and has been verified with the author and pe (MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
17. 12:04 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Terry Watson)
18. 12:10 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
19. 01:04 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Kosta Lewis)
20. 01:34 PM - Weight of paint..roller Vs spray (C Ennis)
21. 01:37 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Scott Bilinski)
22. 01:58 PM - Re: Fuel Vents (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
23. 02:29 PM - FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question (David.vonLinsowe)
24. 02:37 PM - Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? (Jack Blomgren)
25. 03:08 PM - Re: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? (Brian Denk)
26. 04:00 PM - Re: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray (linn walters)
27. 04:21 PM - Re: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question ?? (RV6ator@aol.com)
28. 04:27 PM - Re: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? (Dan Checkoway)
29. 04:30 PM - led lights (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
30. 05:10 PM - Re: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray (linn walters)
31. 05:44 PM - Cowl Heat Protector Tape for RV8 (Vince Himsl)
32. 05:58 PM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (Charlie Kuss)
33. 06:14 PM - Schematic Diagram Wanted (John)
34. 06:27 PM - led's (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
35. 06:27 PM - Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question (Charlie Kuss)
36. 06:39 PM - LED's (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
37. 06:49 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time. (Boyd Braem)
38. 07:28 PM - FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question (David.vonLinsowe)
39. 08:02 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author and pe (Dana Overall)
40. 08:19 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time. (Bruce Gray)
41. 08:30 PM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (Richard Sipp)
42. 08:38 PM - Latest AC 43-13? (Tedd McHenry)
43. 08:47 PM - Re: LED's (Kosta Lewis)
44. 08:51 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time. (Kosta Lewis)
45. 09:01 PM - 21 years of RV-Ator (smoothweasel@juno.com)
46. 09:07 PM - Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time. (Tom Gummo)
47. 09:14 PM - SS tape (Rob W M Shipley)
48. 09:19 PM - Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? (Gil Alexander)
49. 10:05 PM - SoCAL RV RendezVous is GO!!! (WMPALM@aol.com)
50. 10:27 PM - Re: SS tape (Stein Bruch)
51. 10:59 PM - Re: Cheap Sectionals???? (kempthornes)
Message 1
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| Subject: | IFR tibbits-long and little OT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I know most of the gang is probably sick and tired of IFR posts but I am
going to throw one more out there. The text of an email from Old Bob is
pasted below. If you are having problems with your local FAA concerning
approaches into your airport, adding GPS approaches but increasing minimas,
anything to do with approahes..........Bob is the guy to talk too. He eats,
breaths and sleeps this stuff.
>>>>>Here it is that I have received my new Jeppesen revision 23-2003 and
>>>>>haven't even completed my report on 22 yet. Since I may never get that
>>>>>done, I will make a few comments on the latest.
This revision is one of the in-between ones that just pick up things that
Jepp didn't get into the data base last time and a bunch of little house
cleaning changes.
Nevertheless, we do have some very good news.
Susanville Municipal Airport at Susanville, CA, has been added to the world
of IFR flight.
They gained an RNAV (GPS) approach to Rwy 29. That must be some tough area
as the minimums are 5220 MSL, (1075 feet AG) and one and one quarter miles
for we Ninety Knotters. Same MDA, but one and one half mile visibility
required for the Ninety Plussers.
There is a particularly interesting twist with this one. There is also a
circling approach and it has a lower minima than the straight in approach!
5040 MSL (891 feet AG) and one and one quarter for both we Ninety Knotters
and the Ninety Plussers.
That just goes to show how innovative those guys can be when they apply the
rules without trying to make the approach accommodate a zero/zero landing
with a 747. Good Show!
More good news. Donalsonville Municipal Airport, Donalsonville, GA, gained
an RNAV (GPS) to Rwy 36 replacing a standalone GPS. By good design, the MDA
was lowered from 660 to 580 MSL (660 to 513 AG). Even the circling approach
minimums came down by eighty feet. The new RNAV (GPS) to Rwy 18 lowered the
MDA from 740 to 580. Super deal. That is big improvement. This one was
done by using a step down fix which they originally wouldn't do. I guess
the efforts put out by AOPA's Randy Kenagy are bearing fruit.
Williams Field at Raymond, MS, received two new RNAV (GPS) approaches. One
to Rwy 12 and the other to Rwy 30. Both have nice minima, but there are no
old ones to compare them with. Both are better than the NDB which was
formerly the only approach available.
Philadelphia, MS, now has two new RNAV (GPS) approaches. One to Rwy 18 and
the other to Rwy 36. They both have better MDAs than the NDBs they replace,
but the new NDBs have a higher MDA now than they did before. I guess there
must have been some new obstacles found. Good thing we got the nice RNAVs.
Williamson-Sodus, NY, has had their standalone GPS approach to Rwy 28
canceled and replaced with two new RNAV (GPS) approaches to Rwys 28 and 10.
Both approaches are lower than the old approach.
Lots of good approaches in this revision and none that I found which have
had their circling minima artificially driven up by irrational application
of VNAV visibility requirements to the circling minima.
Life is Good!
Happy Skies,
Old Bob
AKA
Bob Siegfried
Ancient Aviator
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Frustrated with dial-up? Get high-speed for as low as $26.95.
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent plugging variations |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Kosta Lewis wrote:
> No injuries but the Bonanza was a write-off. Cause: Mud
>
>
>>daubers had clogged both fuel vents....
>>
>>
>
>Bummer.
>
>Well, let's put it this way: I have never had my fuel vents or hole of
>any kind (!) daubed with mud and I've been here for a really LONG time.
>I know "mud daubers" are certain kinds of wasps that I do not believe
>are indigenous to mountainous Colorado, although their habitat is listed
>as "throughout the United States". I still take a peek at those ol' fuel
>vents though, not to mention my pitot tube prior to every flight, just
>looking for them, or anything else that has decided to set up shop in
>there. 'Specially if the airplane has been 'sitting out' for two weeks,
>which it never does.
>
There are a couple of 'remedies', and come from the Grumman owners.
Depending on your vent size, these may or may not work.
1. A bent pipe cleaner. Fold in half and poke the loose ends in. Bend
the 'bent' part so the pipe cleaner won't push further into the vent.
You can leave them in, or remove before flight.
2. A bent paper clip installed to block the entrance to the vent.
3. A rainbird plastic filter, trimmed to fit.
Linn Walters
>
>Yikes. Not fly for two weeks in the summer? Never happen.
>
>Thanks for setting me straight. I'll be looking for them.
>
>Here's to a Zen approach to preflights.
>
>Michael
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the airframe |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>I am considering painting my plane myself. From those who painted their own planes
I'd like to get some input into the type of spray booth they used or made
and any types of fixtures that were used to hold the various components.
>
>I'm thinking that one of those car canopies would be big enough and I could enclose
it to make a fairly sanitary situation. I live in an airpark but there is
lots of construction going on and it is very dusty here so a spray booth of
some type is a must.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Darwin N. Barrie
>Chandler AZ
>Finish kit stuff
>
My spray booth is made of 1/2" electrical conduit, cut from 10' lengths
down to 9' so the 10' wide plastic fits over it. I use 90 degree
electrical fittings in the corners of the top. For all other fittings I
use a 1/2" PVC 'T' Buy some 1/2" schedule 80 (the thin stuff) pipe and
cut 2" lengths. Then slit the tubes. Fit them over the conduit and
press the PVC "T"s on the ends of the uprights and crosspieces across
the top. Buy the large ACCO butterfly clips and use these to clamp the
plastic to the frame. It'll take a lot of clips. Bore some small holes
where the uprights hit the floor and put a drywall screw in them and set
the legs over the drywall screw. This will prevent the legs from
sliding when you turn the fan on. In the back of the booth I have a box
that goes all the way across the back, and has rolled fiber-fill
attached to it for the filter.
This paint booth is simple to erect, low cost, and when you're done is
easily transported or stored when broken down.
Linn Walters
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Sensenich Prop Wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerald Conrad <gwc@videotron.ca>
Re: Colins Walker prop. This prop is a 70 x 72 wood prop with 150 hrs. I
only acquired this A/C 20 hrs ago so I don't know it's history. It did
fly out of a grass strip with a low time 75+ year old pilot. Upon
removing the black paint on the back side we found many chips that were
covered with paint only. The hairline crack is about 2" long & 1/4" from
the trailing edge starting at the tip. There was a large chip on the
back of the prop at the tip of the blade where the crack started. In
talking with Colin Walker in BC, he said that due to illness he was not
doing any prop work. His repair suggestion was to fill the crack with
epoxy glue. I'll pass that on to a Pro. I have aquired a new Sensenich
metal prop with immediate delivery & much cheaper than Van's. Many
people replied to my wanted add. Thank you all.
Gerry Conrad
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
11/06/2003 07:19:26 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
P.M. I use Micro Mesh to get the bigger scratches. This was what I was
taught during A&P school. It works great but a lot of elbow grease is
involved. For everyday use, I use a product called Brillianize. It sparays
on and you buff untill there is a light haze and then final wipe to a very
clear finish. I would reccomend that you purchase some cheese cloth from
K.C. or Scott paper. The part number for the cloth is 301-purified. From
K.C. paper
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the airframe |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Opp's....schedule 80 PVC is the extra thick, dark gray, threadable type. Sch
40 is the thick lighter gray and the thin stuff is white sprinkler pipe.
Like your idea, may have to use it. KABONG Do Not Archive
---- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Painting the airframe
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
> >
> My spray booth is made of 1/2" electrical conduit, cut from 10' lengths
> down to 9' so the 10' wide plastic fits over it. I use 90 degree
> electrical fittings in the corners of the top. For all other fittings I
> use a 1/2" PVC 'T' Buy some 1/2" schedule 80 (the thin stuff) pipe and
> cut 2" lengths.
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
The key word, "pushing". The fan was pushing outside air through the 2
furnace filters to remove dust. Then the over spray air was cleaned up by
the exit filters which were ducted to the side door of the garage. The fan
was the floor mount type (not a box fan) has 3 power settings and moves
LARGE amounts of air. I belive all the ones that cost about 45~50 bucks and
can be purchased at Target and like stores are the same type. Oh and you
will need a LOT of tape and it must be taped inside and out, to make sure
it wont come apart later. Once the over spray gets on everything it makes
it very difficult to tape up again.
At 03:54 PM 11/5/03 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
>>I had a fan pushing air in through 2 furnace filters.....
>
>I assume your fan was a sealed motor type. Do you have a source? How big
>was it to be effective? An open or Exposed motor can cause a KABOOM to
>occur with flammable paint fumes as the brushes are hanging out in the
>open, subject to producing sparks. Which means you don't want to use
>your K-Mart box fan.
>
>Michael
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the airframe |
11/06/2003 07:58:46 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
A car booth or some type of A-frame enclosed with Plastic will suffice.
also make sure the whole thing is covered in plastic, the floor too. Use 1
or 2 portable fans pointed backwards i.e. pointed to where they blow
outside and pull the vapor out of the booth, and use a house air
conditioning filter in the booth tie wrapped to the back of the fans, as
they blow outward you will get the spray dust out of the "envelope" and
will exhaust the fumes out of the booth. make sure all of the plastic is
taped securely where you have no outside air coming in. And last but not
least ensure you have some sort of personal breathing apparatus to protect
yourself from the toxic fumes. I use a gas mask with exchangeable filters.
Once the filters are unwrapped from the plastic they are good for about 6
to 8 hours of use. I have recently been painting with the dupont PPG paint
and I can tell you from personal experience get something to cover your
eyes as well. Or you will be crying before you finsh the first coat.
Glenn Williams
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent plugging variations |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I have the flappers normally seen on pitot tubes on my vent lines. Work
great so far, but not flying yet.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
linn walters said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Kosta Lewis wrote:
>
>> No injuries but the Bonanza was a write-off. Cause: Mud
>>
>>
>>>daubers had clogged both fuel vents....
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Bummer.
>>
>>Well, let's put it this way: I have never had my fuel vents or hole of
>>any kind (!) daubed with mud and I've been here for a really LONG time.
>>I know "mud daubers" are certain kinds of wasps that I do not believe
>>are indigenous to mountainous Colorado, although their habitat is listed
>>as "throughout the United States". I still take a peek at those ol' fuel
>>vents though, not to mention my pitot tube prior to every flight, just
>>looking for them, or anything else that has decided to set up shop in
>>there. 'Specially if the airplane has been 'sitting out' for two weeks,
>>which it never does.
>>
> There are a couple of 'remedies', and come from the Grumman owners.
> Depending on your vent size, these may or may not work.
> 1. A bent pipe cleaner. Fold in half and poke the loose ends in. Bend
> the 'bent' part so the pipe cleaner won't push further into the vent.
> You can leave them in, or remove before flight.
>
> 2. A bent paper clip installed to block the entrance to the vent.
>
> 3. A rainbird plastic filter, trimmed to fit.
>
> Linn Walters
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: roll on paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 01:23 PM 11/5/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
>I built a in garage (2 car) paint booth out of PVC pipe and plastic sheet
What size pipe works best, Scott?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: roll on paint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I used the standard size PVC water pipe....what is that, 1.0"...? That was a
bit flimsy but worked. Maybe the next size up would be best, whats that 1.5
inch? I also got a bag of 90 and 45 degree fittings and just went to work a lot
like tinker toys! If you used a fan to force air into the paint booth as I did
it will balloon up so tape it all together inside and out with 2 inch masking
tape. I highly recommend the furnace filters (6) for the out going air. The
largest (24x30?) ones that cost about 4~5 bucks each will stop 99% of the over
spray but will have to be replaced about 3 times.
I recommend at least 3 feet between whatever your painting and the "paint
booth"
wall.
At 07:12 AM 11/6/03 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>At 01:23 PM 11/5/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>>I built a in garage (2 car) paint booth out of PVC pipe and plastic sheet
>
>What size pipe works best, Scott?
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
hole in the floor?
Mark do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Stein
Quick question.....do you use a foam buffing wheel rather than wool? If so,
are there different consistencies, (firm, med, soft, etc.?)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Here's my canopy polishing "tricks".
Try to always "wet sand" the plexi, the results are much better.
If the scratches are deep (you can catch a fingernail on them), start out by
using 600grit wet/dry sandpaper and sand in one direction until the scratch
dissapears.
Move to 1000 grit, sanding the opposite direction until all the 600 grit
marks are gone.
Move then to 1500 grit, once again removing all previous mars,
Then, polish with a buffing wheel using 3M Liquid Polishing Compound
(Carquest/Napa, etc..).
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish/buff out some
micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Painting the airframe |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
JOHN STARN wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>
>Opp's....schedule 80 PVC is the extra thick, dark gray, threadable type. Sch
>40 is the thick lighter gray and the thin stuff is white sprinkler pipe.
>Like your idea, may have to use it. KABONG
>
It's the thin white stuff.
Linn
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
If I'm starting on deeper "cobwebs" or scratches, I'll use a 'light-cut'
wool polishing pad, but if I'm finishing up, I use the foam polishing pads.
I dont recall which consitency I have, I just know they are the 3M foam
polishing pads (no deep cut).
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dave Mader
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Stein
Quick question.....do you use a foam buffing wheel rather than wool? If so,
are there different consistencies, (firm, med, soft, etc.?)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Here's my canopy polishing "tricks".
Try to always "wet sand" the plexi, the results are much better.
If the scratches are deep (you can catch a fingernail on them), start out by
using 600grit wet/dry sandpaper and sand in one direction until the scratch
dissapears.
Move to 1000 grit, sanding the opposite direction until all the 600 grit
marks are gone.
Move then to 1500 grit, once again removing all previous mars,
Then, polish with a buffing wheel using 3M Liquid Polishing Compound
(Carquest/Napa, etc..).
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish/buff out some
micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
Message 16
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|
ople in the terminal at the time.
| Subject: | This is a real story and has been verified with the author and |
pe
ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall@hp.com>
This is a real story and has been verified with the author and people in the
terminal at the time (see bottom of page).
Dear Friends and Family,
I hope that you will spare me a few minutes of your time to tell you about
something that I saw on Monday, October 27.
I had been attending a conference in Annapolis and was coming home on
Sunday. As you may recall, Los Angeles International Airport was closed on
Sunday, October 26, because of the fires that affected air traffic control.
Accordingly, my flight, and many others, were canceled and I wound up
spending a night in Baltimore.
My story begins the next day. When I went to check in at the United counter
Monday morning I saw a lot of soldiers home from Iraq. Most were very young
and all had on their desert camouflage uniforms. This was as change from
earlier, when they had to buy civilian clothes in Kuwait to fly home. It was
a visible reminder that we are in a war. It probably was pretty close to
what train terminals were like in World War II.
Many people were stopping the troops to talk to them, asking them questions
in the Starbucks line or just saying "Welcome Home." In addition to all the
flights that had been canceled on Sunday, the weather was terrible in
Baltimore and the flights were backed up. So, there were a lot of unhappy
people in the terminal trying to get home, but nobody that I saw gave the
soldiers a bad time.
By the afternoon, one plane to Denver had been delayed several hours. United
personnel kept asking for volunteers to give up their seats and take another
flight. They weren't getting many takers. Finally, a United spokeswoman got
on the PA and said this, "Folks. As you can see, there are a lot of soldiers
in the waiting area. They only have 14 days of leave and we're trying to get
them where they need to go without spending any more time in an airport then
they have to. We sold them all tickets, knowing we would oversell the
flight. If we can, we want to get them all on this flight. We want all the
soldiers to know that we respect what you're doing, we are here for you and
we love you."
At that, the entire terminal of cranky, tired, travel-weary people, a
cross-section of America, broke into sustained and heart-felt applause. The
soldiers looked surprised and very modest. Most of them just looked at their
boots. Many of us were wiping away tears.
And, yes, people lined up to take the later flight and all the soldiers went
to Denver on that flight.
That little moment made me proud to be an American, and also told me why we
will win this war.
If you want to send my little story on to your friends and family, feel
free. This is not some urban legend. I was there, I was part of it, I saw it
happen.
Will Ross
Administrative Judge
United States Department of Defense
(Verification of story is at http://www.snopes.com/politics/war/onleave.asp
)
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
That's exactly what my RV-8 plans show, or maybe that's why you are asking.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mark Phillips
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Vents
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
hole in the floor?
Mark do not archive
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Mark Phillips wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
> What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
> anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
> hole in the floor?
>
> Mark do not archive
Or run them down the gear leg where they wont ice up.....
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the
floor
>anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
>hole in the floor?
All manners of vile fumes could enter the cockpit if the holes were not
sealed: exhaust and oil breather would be enough. Ever seen the belly of
an airplane? Lots of junk there. You don't want that stuff in where you
are living.
Yuck.
Michael
Message 20
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| Subject: | Weight of paint..roller Vs spray |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C Ennis" <sgtairdog@peoplepc.com>
In one of the posts on 11/06 someone stated some stats for the weight of paint
being the same wether rolled, brushed or sprayed. The sq. ft. coverage was the
same per gallon. While that is probably true, please consider the overspray which
does not adhere to the airframe...versus what may drip off the brush or
roller onto the floor. I believe the advantages of spray painting include much
less weight and no doubt a much more consistant paint film thickness over the
whole airframe.
If someone could figure out how to get all the overspray to adhere to the airframe
instead of winding up in those airfilters, we could cut the cost of a paint
job in half.
Just my opinion...rebuttals?
Charlie Ennis RV-6A Working on the fiberglass. UGH
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Thats the way my RV8 instructions described it.
At 11:40 AM 11/6/03 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Phillips <ripsteel@edge.net>
>
>What is the reason for the fittings where the vents go through the floor
>anyway? Why not just run the line through a bushing or grommet in a
>hole in the floor?
>
>Mark do not archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Terry Watson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> That's exactly what my RV-8 plans show, or maybe that's why you are asking.
>
> Terry
no I didnt know that.. But I know Curtis Pitt's has been
pointing them straight back (down by the wheel) since 1943. It keeps the small
bugs from going head-on into the fuel. They don't drink much though.
I don't know why a fuel pumped system needs to pressurize the tank with ram
air. The air in the tank needs to breath out and in as the plane climbs and
desends. They are actually static ports to allow this air to go in and out.
Phil
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
I should also say that when you switch to a finer grit/grade paper, your
sanding strokes need to be 90 degrees from the previous grit/grade.
Only go to the next finer grit/grade when you can no longer see any of
the scratches from the previous grit/grade.
What you're really doing is replacing scratches with finer scratches.
It's important that the coarser scratches are gone before going to a
finer grit/grade. By switching back and forth 90 degrees you can tell
if you sanded/polished enough before moving on.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: vonLinsowe, David
Subject: FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question
From experience I had with a Pitts canopy I would highly recommend the
Micro Mesh system then finish off with Finish 2001 in the bright green
and orange bottle.
I went from sanding with 320 wet-or-dry all through Micro Mesh's steps.
It turned out nice, but the Finish 2001 really did the trick. I use the
Finish 2001 all the time on the RV canopy for cleaning and de-hazing and
I haven't found anything that works as well! It does polish, but I also
think it somehow fills small scratches so they can't be seen at all. It
makes the Plexiglas invisible.
The problem I have now is nose prints on the canopy. People can't tell
where the canopy is so they run into it with their nose...
Dave
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish out some micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
****************************************************************************************
Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential
and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the
intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If
you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
****************************************************************************************
Message 24
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| Subject: | Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
RV Builders/Flyers,
I'm looking for a good keyed starter/ignition switch solution to use with
toggle switches for one Lightspeed, one Slick mag configuration. If you
have the same setup and arrived at a happy, non-Van's mag switch solution,
your response will be appreciated.
NAPPA has two catalog pages of keyed ignition/starter switches with a
variety of contact or circuit arrangements. If you used or know these
Standard (domestic, non-Chinese) switches could you share recommended
catalog or part numbers for the growing number of two-type ignition RV
builders. Thanks much in advance.
Jack, Red Wing, MN
-8 panel, wiring
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>RV Builders/Flyers,
>
>I'm looking for a good keyed starter/ignition switch solution to use with
>toggle switches for one Lightspeed, one Slick mag configuration. If you
>have the same setup and arrived at a happy, non-Van's mag switch solution,
>your response will be appreciated.
>
>NAPPA has two catalog pages of keyed ignition/starter switches with a
>variety of contact or circuit arrangements. If you used or know these
>Standard (domestic, non-Chinese) switches could you share recommended
>catalog or part numbers for the growing number of two-type ignition RV
>builders. Thanks much in advance.
>
>Jack, Red Wing, MN
>-8 panel, wiring
Jack,
As a dual ignition source RV8 driver, I found the most simple solution was
to just use toggle switches for both. I inverted one so they both are UP
when they are hot. Remember, the logic is opposite with this
installation....closed switch to fire up the Lightspeed, and open switch to
render the mag active. Key switches are of marginal value in light
airplanes. It's utterly simple for Joe Dirtbag to reach under the panel and
short out or open the wires to get the engine started. Digikey and Newark
should have various forms of keyed switches if you truly feel a key is
necessary.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
350 hrs.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
C Ennis wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C Ennis" <sgtairdog@peoplepc.com>
>
>In one of the posts on 11/06 someone stated some stats for the weight of paint
being the same wether rolled, brushed or sprayed. The sq. ft. coverage was the
same per gallon. While that is probably true, please consider the overspray
which does not adhere to the airframe...versus what may drip off the brush or
roller onto the floor. I believe the advantages of spray painting include much
less weight and no doubt a much more consistant paint film thickness over the
whole airframe.
> If someone could figure out how to get all the overspray to adhere to the airframe
instead of winding up in those airfilters, we could cut the cost of a paint
job in half.
> Just my opinion...rebuttals?
> Charlie Ennis RV-6A Working on the fiberglass. UGH
>
>
>
I agree with everything you said about spraying. Rolling just doesn't
put down a consistent thickness film. As to overspray, we know that the
standard high pressure air sprayer has an overabundance of it. We can
cut that down a little with HVLP, High Volume Low Pressure. If you
already have a compressor, then you'll spend more money on a
turbine-type 'compressor'. there are, however, HVLP guns that will hook
up to your high pressure compressor. The next best thing is
static-charged painting. I haven't tried this, but Harbor freight has a
powder coat system for $99 that might be adapted to a regular spray
gun. It places a charge on the powder (I think +) and the workpiece is
charged - ..... and the powder is attracted evenly on the workpiece.
Should work the same with paint. The car makers used a charged paint
system (with robotic sprayers, of course .... a bit of overkill for what
we need) and it seems OK.
Linn
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal question |
??
--> RV-List message posted by: RV6ator@aol.com
The best thing I have found for new or old canopies is 3M Liquid Polish P/N
05993. Available at Auto stores that sell 3M products. This stuff works great
on restoring faded or scratched canopies, I have found nothing better.
Regards,
Bill Mahoney
Sherman, CT
RV6 N747W
Sherman, CT
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I have to ask...why use a key at all? Using two toggle switches seems
simpler, cheaper, lighter, and less complicated to wire.
Other than prop locks and hangar locks, I'm not a big fan of keys/locks in
general, so take this with a grain of salt! 8-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (no keys anywhere...come steal my plane)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed + Mag Starter Switch?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
>
> RV Builders/Flyers,
>
> I'm looking for a good keyed starter/ignition switch solution to use with
> toggle switches for one Lightspeed, one Slick mag configuration. If you
> have the same setup and arrived at a happy, non-Van's mag switch solution,
> your response will be appreciated.
>
> NAPPA has two catalog pages of keyed ignition/starter switches with a
> variety of contact or circuit arrangements. If you used or know these
> Standard (domestic, non-Chinese) switches could you share recommended
> catalog or part numbers for the growing number of two-type ignition RV
> builders. Thanks much in advance.
>
> Jack, Red Wing, MN
> -8 panel, wiring
>
>
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
lights just arrived. 6:30 CST
gathering tools........
will report later when done........
Phil
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Weight of paint..roller Vs spray |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
C Ennis wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "C Ennis" <sgtairdog@peoplepc.com>
>
>In one of the posts on 11/06 someone stated some stats for the weight of paint
being the same wether rolled, brushed or sprayed. The sq. ft. coverage was the
same per gallon. While that is probably true, please consider the overspray
which does not adhere to the airframe...versus what may drip off the brush or
roller onto the floor. I believe the advantages of spray painting include much
less weight and no doubt a much more consistant paint film thickness over the
whole airframe.
> If someone could figure out how to get all the overspray to adhere to the airframe
instead of winding up in those airfilters, we could cut the cost of a paint
job in half.
> Just my opinion...rebuttals?
> Charlie Ennis RV-6A Working on the fiberglass. UGH
>
>
>
I agree with everything you said about spraying. Rolling just doesn't
put down a consistent thickness film. As to overspray, we know that the
standard high pressure air sprayer has an overabundance of it. We can
cut that down a little with HVLP, High Volume Low Pressure. If you
already have a compressor, then you'll spend more money on a
turbine-type 'compressor'. there are, however, HVLP guns that will hook
up to your high pressure compressor. The next best thing is
static-charged painting. I haven't tried this, but Harbor freight has a
powder coat system for $99 that might be adapted to a regular spray
gun. It places a charge on the powder (I think +) and the workpiece is
charged - ..... and the powder is attracted evenly on the workpiece.
Should work the same with paint. The car makers used a charged paint
system (with robotic sprayers, of course .... a bit of overkill for what
we need) and it seems OK.
Linn
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Cowl Heat Protector Tape for RV8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
Hello,
Roughly how much of Van's cowl heat protector tape do I need to order for the RV8?
180 HP
Thanks!
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Larry,
DP40LF does not contain strontium chromate. If it's an automotive product, & is
not intended for use on aircraft aluminum. Strontium chromate is the replacement
for Zinc chromate used in Aerospace Mil Spec epoxy primers. I know that PPG
makes aircraft refinishing products. DeSoto is their Aviation Division. DeSoto
Desoprime HS is one product which is specifically formulated for use on aluminium.
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1&pdfID=4
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/pdf/desophs.pdf
Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy primers
are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not offer any special
ingredients to prevent corrosion.
The link below lists all the aviation primers available through PPG's DeSoto division.
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1
DeSoto's Super Koropon is another excellent product for aircarft use. You can use
anything you want on your aircraft. However, why not use a product specifically
designed for aircraft aluminum? Epoxy primers are not cheap, so why not get
the best product for the job?
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the finish
>painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
>stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it flow
>out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
>but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there is
>plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other primers.
>Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
>outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth large
>enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best way
>to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
>On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>>
>> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
>>
>>
>> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize or
>> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that will
>> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
>epoxy does
>> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
>> Dale Ensing
>>
>>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Schematic Diagram Wanted |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Is there anyone one the list who has an internal schematic diagram of the PS
Engineering intercom? I have a model PS501 and want to trouble shoot beyond
the information provided by the manufacturer - they only give the
inputs/outputs without any internal diagrams.
Thanks...a long shot I know.
John at Salida, CO
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
green board tested 8:25
two led's are dim, but it can't be detected. they are in the forward facing cluster
and they are so
bright that they are not noticed.....
will trouble shoot later when vision returns.
Now I do a beer......
Phil
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Brushing on Iridite 14-2 Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Dave,
Why do you wish to brush the Iridite on? I've used Iridite 14-2 extensively on
my project. It's great stuff. If you purchase it in powder form, it 's cheap
enough to dip every part. I've dip tank treated every part on my 8A, including
the main longerons, my one piece wing main skins (9' 2 5/8" long) & the fuselage
tail cone skins.
Buying Alodine or Iridite in liquid form is WAY to expensive. Purchased in powder
form, it works out to under $2 per gallon. With 40 gallons, you can treat
the largest parts of your project and have enough to do all the parts. The dipping
method yields the best results with the least work. I have seen the same
info you refer to, but like you, could find no additional info. Sorry! :-(
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Smith <dave@rv10project.net>
>
>Okay, I've been checking into Iridite 14-2 and found a local distributor
>here in Spokane. When we talked about different application methods, he
>mentioned that McDermid makes some kind of kit to go with it to make it
>'brushable', although he was short on details. Upon further searching
>of the archives and the net, I ran across a reference to an additive
>that you put into 14-2 to make it brushable (sorry, can't remember the
>name).
>
>Do folks use 14-2 as is mixed, or are they putting in this additive for
>when they want to brush/spray the solution?
>
>Second question: the sales guy suggested taking the parts to a local
>shop that specializes in dipping. He said that he knew business had
>been slow for them, so they would probably cut a good deal. Has anybody
>else used a shop like this? If so, how much did it cost you?
>--
>
>Dave
>http://www.rv10project.net
>
>
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Trouble found. somebody missed a resistor. Fixed.........
These things are brighter than incandescents........
Phil
do not archive
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author |
and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
Yeah, that's the same reception I got coming back from Viet Nam. Would
you like me to drop napalm on some one?--maybe some women or a few
kids? I was actually quite accurate in bombing with the A4-Skyhawk
("Scooter"--to you guys that were there)--I can put a bunch of 500's in
your neighbor's house if you want or just mess up the whole yard with
Zunis--I mean they spent a lot of money to train me to do that.
Actually, there was ONE A4 pilot who shot down a MiG with his Zunis--it
was accidental but still a good day. And it was LT John McCain's A4
that started the big fire on the Forrestall (Forest Fire) when a
missile from an F-4 hit the bottom of his fuselage (and fuel tank, oh,
yeah, and then some bombs) and he had to run out on his refueling probe
to get out of the flames--they didn't have 0/0 ejection seats back then
(1967?). The worst thing was that the fire crew got blasted away when
the bombs started going off--and then they (the bombs) blew a hole in
the deck.
And all good stories have a happy ending. And an Administrative Judge
is (I think?--do I really?) retired.
Boyd.
RV-Super 6 (325 hp/IO-540)
On Thursday, November 6, 2003, at 02:55 PM, MARSHALL,STEPHANIE
(HP-Corvallis,ex1) wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)"
> <stephanie.marshall@hp.com>
>
> This is a real story and has been verified with the author and people
> in the
> terminal at the time (see bottom of page).
>
> Dear Friends and Family,
>
> I hope that you will spare me a few minutes of your time to tell you
> about
> something that I saw on Monday, October 27.
>
> I had been attending a conference in Annapolis and was coming home on
> Sunday. As you may recall, Los Angeles International Airport was
> closed on
> Sunday, October 26, because of the fires that affected air traffic
> control.
> Accordingly, my flight, and many others, were canceled and I wound up
> spending a night in Baltimore.
>
> My story begins the next day. When I went to check in at the United
> counter
> Monday morning I saw a lot of soldiers home from Iraq. Most were very
> young
> and all had on their desert camouflage uniforms. This was as change
> from
> earlier, when they had to buy civilian clothes in Kuwait to fly home.
> It was
> a visible reminder that we are in a war. It probably was pretty close
> to
> what train terminals were like in World War II.
>
> Many people were stopping the troops to talk to them, asking them
> questions
> in the Starbucks line or just saying "Welcome Home." In addition to
> all the
> flights that had been canceled on Sunday, the weather was terrible in
> Baltimore and the flights were backed up. So, there were a lot of
> unhappy
> people in the terminal trying to get home, but nobody that I saw gave
> the
> soldiers a bad time.
>
> By the afternoon, one plane to Denver had been delayed several hours.
> United
> personnel kept asking for volunteers to give up their seats and take
> another
> flight. They weren't getting many takers. Finally, a United
> spokeswoman got
> on the PA and said this, "Folks. As you can see, there are a lot of
> soldiers
> in the waiting area. They only have 14 days of leave and we're trying
> to get
> them where they need to go without spending any more time in an
> airport then
> they have to. We sold them all tickets, knowing we would oversell the
> flight. If we can, we want to get them all on this flight. We want all
> the
> soldiers to know that we respect what you're doing, we are here for
> you and
> we love you."
>
> At that, the entire terminal of cranky, tired, travel-weary people, a
> cross-section of America, broke into sustained and heart-felt
> applause. The
> soldiers looked surprised and very modest. Most of them just looked at
> their
> boots. Many of us were wiping away tears.
>
> And, yes, people lined up to take the later flight and all the
> soldiers went
> to Denver on that flight.
>
> That little moment made me proud to be an American, and also told me
> why we
> will win this war.
>
> If you want to send my little story on to your friends and family, feel
> free. This is not some urban legend. I was there, I was part of it, I
> saw it
> happen.
>
> Will Ross
> Administrative Judge
> United States Department of Defense
>
> (Verification of story is at
> http://www.snopes.com/politics/war/onleave.asp
> )
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
(I don't think the first time I sent this it went through, so I'm
retrying...)
I should also say that when you switch to a finer grit/grade paper, your
sanding strokes need to be 90 degrees from the previous grit/grade.
Only go to the next finer grit/grade when you can no longer see any of
the scratches from the previous grit/grade.
What you're really doing is replacing scratches with finer scratches.
It's important that the coarser scratches are gone before going to a
finer grit/grade. By switching back and forth 90 degrees you can tell
if you sanded/polished enough before moving on.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: vonLinsowe, David
Subject: FW: Polishing Canopy and scratch removal Question
From experience I had with a Pitts canopy I would highly recommend the
Micro Mesh system then finish off with Finish 2001 in the bright green
and orange bottle.
I went from sanding with 320 wet-or-dry all through Micro Mesh's steps.
It turned out nice, but the Finish 2001 really did the trick. I use the
Finish 2001 all the time on the RV canopy for cleaning and de-hazing and
I haven't found anything that works as well! It does polish, but I also
think it somehow fills small scratches so they can't be seen at all. It
makes the Plexiglas invisible.
The problem I have now is nose prints on the canopy. People can't tell
where the canopy is so they run into it with their nose...
Dave
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of P M Condon
Subject: RV-List: Re: Polishing Canopies and micro scratch removal
question ??
--> RV-List message posted by: P M Condon <pcondon@mitre.org>
What have RV-ers been using to polish canopies? I have been using Plexus
with good results as a cleaner/polisher. I need to polish out some micro
fine scratches so I am wondering what others are using to do this? At
the AOPA convention this weekend I purchased a Flitz polishing kit.....I
am not thrilled with the results on plastic. I realize that micro-mesh
and other similar companies have a product...I am wondering what else is
out there that polishes out micro scratches and all that. There are
canopies on RV's at Oshkosh that look like Todd just took them out of
the mold-there so clean and scratch free...
****************************************************************************************
Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential
and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the
intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If
you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
****************************************************************************************
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author |
and pe
ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
>
>Yeah, that's the same reception I got coming back from Viet Nam. Would
>you like me to drop napalm on some one?--maybe some women or a few
>kids? >
>And all good stories have a happy ending. And an Administrative Judge
>is (I think?--do I really?) retired.
>
>Boyd.
>RV-Super 6 (325 hp/IO-540)
Take a chill Boyd, if this is a true story more power to the people who
showed their appreciation and a pat on the back for the boys (yes, most are
still boys acting as men) in uniform.
Sorry gang, but I couldn't sit on this. Yes, I still have my draft card
from the Vietnam era.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always playing
on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
Message 40
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| Subject: | This is a real story and has been verified with the author |
and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
I had to turn mine in to the Draft Board when I was drafted back in 64.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with
the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Take a chill Boyd, if this is a true story more power to the people who
showed their appreciation and a pat on the back for the boys (yes, most
are
still boys acting as men) in uniform.
Sorry gang, but I couldn't sit on this. Yes, I still have my draft card
from the Vietnam era.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always
playing
on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
I second Charlie's comments and would add that it is easy to spray. It's
been on the inside of my 4 for 6 years and looks like the day it was
painted. I know the origninal poster, Larry, was talking about a primer
which would be top-coated on the exterior. A good feature of the Super
Koropon is that it does not require top coating when used on the interior
structure.
The list of aerospace vehicles that are interior primed with DeSoto Super
Koropon is long including many airlines, the space shuttle, Gulfstreams
etc.
Dick Sipp
RV 4 N250DS
RV10 N110DV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
> Larry,
> DP40LF does not contain strontium chromate. If it's an automotive product,
& is not intended for use on aircraft aluminum. Strontium chromate is the
replacement for Zinc chromate used in Aerospace Mil Spec epoxy primers. I
know that PPG makes aircraft refinishing products. DeSoto is their Aviation
Division. DeSoto Desoprime HS is one product which is specifically
formulated for use on aluminium.
>
>
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1&pdfID=4
>
> http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/pdf/desophs.pdf
>
> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>
> The link below lists all the aviation primers available through PPG's
DeSoto division.
>
>
http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1
>
> DeSoto's Super Koropon is another excellent product for aircarft use. You
can use anything you want on your aircraft. However, why not use a product
specifically designed for aircraft aluminum? Epoxy primers are not cheap, so
why not get the best product for the job?
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
> >
> >That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the
finish
> >painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
> >stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it
flow
> >out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
> >but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there
is
> >plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other
primers.
> >Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
> >outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth
large
> >enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best
way
> >to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
> >
> >Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> >On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >>
> >> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
> >>
> >>
> >> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize
or
> >> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that
will
> >> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
> >epoxy does
> >> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
> >> Dale Ensing
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Latest AC 43-13? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
I'm trying to ensure that I have the latest copy of AC 43-13 (Acceptable
Methods), in electronic form, and I seem to be in Reference Number Hell. Can
someone here play Virgil and guide me out of it?
I have three separate references.
1. The FAA web site carries AC 43-13-1B, which they annotate with "September
8, 1998 (With Change 1 Incorporated)."
2. FAA AC 43-16A, dated February, 2002, announces Change 1 to AC 43-13-1B.
3. Jeppesen carries, in printed form, what they refer to as "AC-43.13-1B/2A
with Change 1."
Are 1 and 2 the same document, with AC 43-16A just being a tad late in
announcing it?
This AC 43-13-2A is very confusing. It's referred to in many places on the FAA
web site, but I can't find the actual document. Also, my old copy of the
Jeppesen book (AC 43.13-1A and AC 43.13-2A combined) appears to be a single
document, i.e. there's only one table of contents with no distinction between
1A and 2A, even though they have different titles ("Acceptable Methods..." and
"Aircraft Alterations"). Was 2A ever actually a separate document? Did 1B
supercede both 1A and 2A?
Thanks,
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
-6 wings
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 43
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>Trouble found. somebody missed a resistor. Fixed.........
>These things are brighter than incandescents........
Was that before or after the beer??
Do not archive
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | This is a real story and has been verified with the author |
and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>From: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
>
>Yeah, that's the same reception I got coming back from Viet Nam. Would
>>you like me to drop napalm on some one?--maybe some women or a few
>>kids? >
>>And all good stories have a happy ending. And an Administrative Judge
>>is (I think?--do I really?) retired.
>Take a chill Boyd, if this is a true story more power to the people who
>showed their appreciation and a pat on the back for the boys (yes, most
are
>still boys acting as men) in uniform.
>Sorry gang, but I couldn't sit on this. Yes, I still have my draft
card
>from the Vietnam era.
OK: NOBODY SAY A THING.
Good.
And now, let's get back to building.
Michael
Oh, yeah. Do not archive stuff like this, gents.
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | 21 years of RV-Ator |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
I have "The 18 Years Of RV-Ator" and would like to know
if the new book is an addition to the old one or if it has all new
material?
do not archive
Joel "Weasel" Graber
RV-4 finishing
Brooksville MS
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: This is a real story and has been verified with the author |
and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
I just went into AF ROTC but unlike a ex-pres, I went to the meetings. :-)
Tom "GummiBear" Gummo
Wild Weasel #1753
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Subject: RE: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with the
author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> I had to turn mine in to the Draft Board when I was drafted back in 64.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
> To: rv-list@matronics.com.ople.in.the.terminal.at.the.time
> Subject: Re: RV-List: This is a real story and has been verified with
> the author and pe ople in the terminal at the time.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Take a chill Boyd, if this is a true story more power to the people who
> showed their appreciation and a pat on the back for the boys (yes, most
> are
> still boys acting as men) in uniform.
>
> Sorry gang, but I couldn't sit on this. Yes, I still have my draft card
>
> from the Vietnam era.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
> From Beethoven to the Rolling Stones, your favorite music is always
> playing
> on MSN Radio Plus. No ads, no talk. Trial month FREE!
>
>
Message 47
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Stein wrote
"I will be selling it on my website starting next week, and the price will be
$.50 cents per foot. The stainless tape is 3" with the heavy duty Acrylic
adhesive, exactly what works well on the leading edge of the -4,6,7, & 8 flaps.
Cheers, Stein Bruch, http://www.steinair.com "
Is this not likely to be of use to 9 builders?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gil Alexander <gilalex@earthlink.net>
Larry,
The same PPG paint dealer should be able to sell you DP70
epoxy primer, which IS MIL-Spec. qualified (the MIL-P-23377 spec) and does
contain strontium chromate for Alum. protection.... and doesn't need a top
coat....
gil in Tucson
At 08:53 PM 11/6/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaskuss@bellsouth.net>
>
>Larry,
>DP40LF does not contain strontium chromate. If it's an automotive product,
>& is not intended for use on aircraft aluminum. Strontium chromate is the
>replacement for Zinc chromate used in Aerospace Mil Spec epoxy primers. I
>know that PPG makes aircraft refinishing products. DeSoto is their
>Aviation Division. DeSoto Desoprime HS is one product which is
>specifically formulated for use on aluminium.
>
>http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1&pdfID=4
>
>http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/pdf/desophs.pdf
>
> Automotive epoxy primers are formulated for use on steel. These epoxy
> primers are not intended for use on aluminum. Their formulation does not
> offer any special ingredients to prevent corrosion.
>
>The link below lists all the aviation primers available through PPG's
>DeSoto division.
>
>http://www.ppg.com/prc-desoto/main.asp?img=coat&menuID=2&contLvl=com&catID=2&prodLvl=prime&prodID=1
>
>DeSoto's Super Koropon is another excellent product for aircarft use. You
>can use anything you want on your aircraft. However, why not use a product
>specifically designed for aircraft aluminum? Epoxy primers are not cheap,
>so why not get the best product for the job?
>
>Charlie Kuss
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> >
> >That is why I used 2-part epoxy DP40LF. Also, when you go to do the finish
> >painting, the DP48LF is a good primer for the PPG Concept paint. Great
> >stuff. And by the way, the DP40/48LF primer can be thinned to make it flow
> >out nice and smooth. Ask your PPG paint supplier about it. Great primer
> >but you need a air supply to protect yourself or work outside where there is
> >plenty of fresh air. And it does not dry instantly like some other primers.
> >Painting in the fall is a good time due to bugs being less common with
> >outside painting. However, I suggest you setup an inside paint booth large
> >enough to do a detached wing and later the fuselage. That is the best way
> >to go when you think about it seriously IMO.
> >
> >Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
> >On Finish Kit and painting things Viper Race Yellow over DP48LP primer
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <DWENSING@aol.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Why do we use VariPrime/ Sherwin williams?
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >>
> >> In a message dated 11/1/03 11:34:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> >> top_gun_toronto@yahoo.ca writes:
> >>
> >>
> >> > For those following our steps... the only true sure way is to Anodize or
> >> > Epoxy paint. Anything else is a guess against mother nature.
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >> Sorry, but that is not quite true. There are other paint systems that will
> >> give equal or better corrosion protection versus epoxy. The one thing
> >epoxy does
> >> provide is chemical resistance. i.e. gasoline and oil
> >> Dale Ensing
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
RV-6A, #20701 .. fitting out firewall...
77 Tiger N28478 at 57AZ
Message 49
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| Subject: | SoCAL RV RendezVous is GO!!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: WMPALM@aol.com
RV Enthusiasts,
The weather forecast for this Saturday, Nov. 8, is looking fine for Cable
Airport (Upland, CA), and our SoCAL RV RendezVous is GO!!! In fact, the weather
forecast looks good from San Luis Obispo in the north to all points east and
south. We would expect a lot of fly-ins from Arizona, Southern Nevada, and
Southern California! We are expecting weather similar to last Saturday - -
Please see Photos 25 to 31 in our group's photo album at
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCAL-RVlist/lst. Last Saturday was a=20very pleasant,
super-visibility day!
Once Again: Our SoCAL RV RendezVous "get-together" is an opportunity for RV
enthusiasts (flyers, builders, potential builders, friends, and family) to
enjoy RV camaraderie, gawk at some nice RVs, swap stories, SWAP EXTRA RV PARTS,
BUY A RENDEZVOUS T-SHIRT, have a little something to eat and drink, enjoy the
sunshine, etc., etc. - - Just a straightforward, informal "good time" for all!
We'll be ready for arrivals starting at 9 am, and the RendezVous goes until=204
pm.
Here are the details:
EVENT: SoCAL RV RendezVous
DATE: Saturday, Nov. 8, 2003
TIME: 9am to 4pm
LOCATION: Cable Airport (KCCB), Upland, CA (http://www.cableairport.com)
Cable Airport's manger, Chuck Barnett, is graciously allowing us to use the
old north-south crosswind runway as the site of our fly-in. The old runway=20is
now a taxiway located at the northwest corner of the airport just north of the
fuel pit and west of the north hangars.
REGISTRATION:
When you arrive, please sign-in at our registration table and pick-up your
badge. If you already have an EAA badge, you are encouraged to wear it as well.
RV FLYERS:
Our SoCAL RV RendezVous is a great opportunity for you to meet your fellow RV
flyers/builders, enjoy some great RV camaraderie, and share your RV
experiences and knowledge. Since this is an RV-focused "get together," everyone
attending will be an enthusiastic "RVer" in some way! Many RV builders, potential
builders, and other RV enthusiasts will be attending the RendezVous, and we
encourage you to encourage them! We're sure that they will be very interested
in
your building experiences and will enjoy hearing about your RV flying.
Note: If you decide that you want to give a few builders/enthusiasts a short
ride, that would be great, but we want to emphasize that giving rides is
completely optional on your part. You are certainly not obligated to do so. Our
main goal is to have you fly-in, show-off your RV, share your building and
flight experiences, and Have Fun! Only offer a short ride if you happen to=20feel
like it! If not, don't worry about it! Just relax and Have Fun with your
fellow "RVers!"
RV BUILDERS, POTENTIAL BUILDERS, and RV ENTHUSIASTS:
Note that this "get together" will be a particularly great opportunity for RV
builders, and potential builders/enthusiasts, to meet experienced RV
builders/flyers and see their beautiful aircraft both in-flight and at the RV parking
area. You will be able to ask questions and gain valuable knowledge
concerning the RV building process, the installation and checkout of various aircraft
systems, and RV performance and flight characteristics. A few RV flyers may
offer some lucky builders/enthusiasts a short encouragement/motivation ride, but
this opportunity is strictly at the discretion of the individual RV
flyers/owners. We would expect builders/enthusiasts to be courteous and not solicit
any of the RV flyers/owners for a ride - - Please wait to be asked. Many RV
flyers will prefer to just sit, relax, and talk rather than give rides.
Builders interested in rides should display their Van's builder's number and
RV model under construction on their registration badge and have a pilot's
license. Potential builders may also be lucky enough to fly - - Please note "RV
Builder???" on your badge and have your pilot's license handy. Also,
"Significant Others" (the real decision-makers!) may be able to get a ride.=20
If
offered a flight, builders and potential builders should offer to help pay for
avgas.
FLY-IN PROCEDURES:
Cable Airport is a family-owned, RV-friendly airport with easy VFR access
from the northwest and northeast (north of Ontario) as well as relatively easy
access from the south and southwest past Corona and west of the Chino and
Brackett Airports. Be sure to contact the Chino and Brackett towers for permission
to fly through their airspace if you so chose. Please comply with all
airspace restrictions and steer-clear of Ontario's airspace unless you're talking
to
ATC. We definitely want to have a violation-free day and maintain good
relations with all air traffic control facilities/personnel.
Note: A moving map GPS with airspace boundary depiction is highly
recommended.
SoCAL airspace permits good VFR access, but you do need to know exactly where
and how high you are relative to controlled airspace. Also, please keep a
wary eye out for airborne traffic. The traffic is not as thick as popularly
rumored, but SoCAL is a nice place to fly for all, and many RVs will be flying
into Cable as well.
Cable is an uncontrolled airport but does have published recommended VFR
arrival and departure procedures which you should review (see Cable's website and
your flight guide). Also, please be neighbor-friendly by keeping noise down.
VFR arrival and departure procedures for Cable airport can be found at
http://www.cableairport.com/images/vfr24.gif for runway 24 (most likely runway with
prevailing winds from the west) and at
http://www.cableairport.com/images/vfr6.gif for runway 6.
Please note that the Cable traffic pattern is left turns only - - No
straight-ins or outs! No formation takeoffs, No buzz jobs, No fooling around!
Flybys
are restricted to pattern altitude, and flyby aircraft must yield to any
aircraft in the standard traffic pattern. Be particularly watchful for crosswind
approach traffic!
PLEASE NO LOW FLYBYS!
All FARs must be observed. An FAA representative who is also building an RV
will be on the airport and could potentially issue violations for unsafe
actions. If you wish to do a flyby, please remain at pattern altitude and watch
carefully for traffic.
After landing, you will exit off the runway to the NORTH side of the runway
then taxi WEST. As you taxi westbound, please look for our RV RendezVous taxi
and parking guides - - they'll have vests, wands, etc. and will help direct
you to the next available parking spot.
You might want to bring your own wheel chocks as we will be parking RVs on
the old crosswind runway/taxiway that has a slight slope. We will have wooden
chocks available if you forget yours! Non-RV aircraft will be parked parallel
to and facing the active runway near the RV parking. Tie-down chains are
available for those aircraft parking along the runway.
FORMATION FLYING:
If you are interested in formation flying (who isn't?), please contact Gary
Sobek for further information and coordination: RV6_Flyer@hotmail.com. You
must be a qualified, experienced RV formation flyer and comply with all Cable
Airport flight procedures/restrictions as well as FAA regulations.
WEATHER ALTERNATES:
In the unlikely event that Cable Airport is not sunny and clear on the
morning of Nov. 1 as usual, our VFR weather alternates are: #1 Agua Dulce Airpark
(L70) and #2: Apple Valley (KAPV). Both Agua Dulce and Apple Valley are well
equipped with ramp space, food, and avgas to handle lots of fly-ins.
If Cable is IFR, Paul and Victoria Rosales (cell 661 433-6056) will be at
Agua Dulce to greet arrivals there. Paul and Victoria will be in contact with
the RendezVous crew at Cable to get the latest weather information. We don't
plan to have anyone stationed at Apple Valley, but Paul and Victoria will fly
there if Agua Dulce is socked in (which only happens "once in a blue moon!").
NOTE: All drive-ins should proceed to Cable Airport, because we will have
Cable-stationed RVs on-hand regardless of weather.
DRIVE-IN DIRECTIONS:
Ground-bound RV enthusiasts, particularly RV builders and potential builders,
are encouraged to attend! Cable Airport is located north of the I-10 freeway
in Upland, CA. Take I-10's Central Avenue exit NORTH past Montclair Plaza.=20
At the end of Central Ave. (1.3 miles from I-10) turn RIGHT (EAST) on Foothill
Blvd. (Historic Route 66). (There's a traffic light there.) Travel EAST on
Foothill to the next traffic light. Turn LEFT (NORTH) at the light onto
Benson Ave. (There's a "76" Gasoline/Car Wash Plaza on the left, and on the right
you'll see a Carl's Jr. and an "Old-Style" McDonald's across the
intersection.)
Continue NORTH on Benson Ave. past the Lowe's on your left and PAST the main
entrance to Cable Airport at the 13TH Street (first) traffic light. Continue
PAST the second traffic light and you should see a Fire Station on the right.
After you pass the Fire Station (the runway will be on your left), you will
make a LEFT (WEST) turn at the next opportunity (Howard Access Road) onto Cable
Airport.
There is a sign that says "Holliday Rock Quarry" at this entrance. Drive
through the gate onto the airport. Continue WEST via the taxiway between the
hangars and keep your speed down to 5 mph or less.
AIRCRAFT HAVE THE RIGHT OF WAY!
Give way to aircraft by pulling over to the right and stopping until the
aircraft passes. Also, be careful to slow down before any open hangar to make
sure that aircraft, people, or vehicles are not exiting the hangar. At the end
of the row of hangars, you will be directed to parking. Look for the SoCAL=20RV
signs and our RendezVous parking guides.
OVERNIGHT STAY:
If you are flying in from a distance and plan to stay Friday and/or Saturday
night, we would recommend the Western Inn located at 1191 East Foothill Blvd.,
Upland, CA approximately 4 to 5 miles from Cable. Their web address is
http://www.venquest.com/westerninnupland. The Western Inn is clean and accessible
with restaurants nearby. The Western Inn has a "Cable Airport" discount of
$59 for a single king or two queen beds and $69-$79 for more upscale
accommodations. These are excellent prices for the Southern California area.
Note:
Cable Airport's management has confirmed Western Inn's low $59 rate for either
call-in or internet reservations - - make sure to ask for the "Cable Airport"
discount!
The Western Inn's reservation phone number is 800-726-2955 (Internet Hotel
Hotline), and their local number is 909-949-4800. Reservations can also be=20made
directly through Western Inn's website. The Western Inn does not have Cable
Airport pickup, but our SoCAL group might be able to provide complimentary
ground transportation for you. Please contact Bill Palmer at wmpalm@aol.com as
soon as possible to request complimentary transportation between Cable Airport
and the Western Inn. Also, there are two taxi companies serving the area:
Yellow Cab, 909-622-1313, and Dell Cab, 800-340-8294.
FOOD and DRINK:
For morning arrivals, we will have FREE donuts, rolls, juice, and coffee.
For lunch, the Cable EAA Chapter will have their food booth with reasonably
priced food and drink. Cable also has an excellent airport restaurant, Maniac
Mike's Caf=E9, for more "gourmet" fare at reasonable prices. We will have a
shuttle van to take people to the south side of the airport where Maniac Mike's
Caf=E9 is located.
Please DO NOT walk across the runway but please DO use our shuttle van.
SHELTER, SEATING, SWAPS, AND OTHER STUFF:
Shade and seating will be under the new 60 X 60 shade hangar that is used as
an aircraft wash rack. We will have the food booth, Clearair Tools tool demo
area, and an area to SELL/SWAP ANY OF YOUR RV-RELATED PARTS.
RENDEZVOUS T-SHIRTS!!!
We will also have a TEE SHIRT vendor on site to sell custom 2003 SoCAL RV
RendezVous shirts - - Please see Photos 27 and 28 in our photo album. THE
T-SHIRTS ARE VERY NICE!!! LOOKIN' GOOD!!!
Note: You might want to bring some suntan lotion, or sunscreen, if you plan
to do a lot of gawking at the RVs out on the ramp!
SAFETY AND SECURITY:
Our Safety and Security Officer is Gary Hart. In case of any problems, Gary
will be able to contact local law enforcement, the local fire department,
healthcare, etc.
Note: Gary Hart has the "Final Word" with respect to RendezVous safety! All
RendezVous participants are expected to follow Gary's guidance to ensure a
Safe, Good Time!
Important: We have no "event" insurance, since this is an informal "get
together" for RV folks only and is not a "public" fly-in, so you're self-insured.
All flying and ground operations are at your own risk/insurance. Although
Gary, and other SoCAL volunteers, will be available to help you, your safety and
security is ultimately your own responsibility!
QUESTIONS:
If you have any questions, please contact Bill Palmer at wmpalm@aol.com, and
we'll try to provide an answer, or at least an opinion! Note: Our responses
are at your own risk!
SUMMARY:
No Judging, No Trophies, No Schedule, No Fees, No Hassles - - Just Mutual RV
Admiration and FUN!
We'll look forward to seeing you on Saturday, Nov.8 at Cable Airport!!! RVs
FOREVER!!!
Best Regards,
Gary Sobek
SoCAL RV RendezVous Chairman
EAA Technical Counselor, AB DAR-elect
RV-6 N157GS
Bill Palmer
RendezVous Marketing and Communications Officer
RV-8A QB In-Progress
Message 50
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Before everyone else starts going....I'll admit that the UHMW is probably
the better way to go here, but I have the SS on my flying -6 and it
looks/works just fine.
As an aside, to keep everyone happy, I'll be stocking both.
3" UHMW Tape (cheaper than Van's, Mouser & McMaster)
3" SS tape (priced as below).
Check back next week on the website for both.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
http://www.steinair.com
Do not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Rob W M Shipley
Subject: RV-List: SS tape
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Stein wrote
"I will be selling it on my website starting next week, and the price will
be
$.50 cents per foot. The stainless tape is 3" with the heavy duty Acrylic
adhesive, exactly what works well on the leading edge of the -4,6,7, & 8
flaps.
Cheers, Stein Bruch, http://www.steinair.com "
Is this not likely to be of use to 9 builders?
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
RV9A N919RV (res) Fuselage
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Cheap Sectionals???? |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Maybe they know something you don't??? Maybe they don't pay $15 an hour
for such simple jobs!
hal
do not archive
At 11:09 AM 11/5/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
><winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
>
>Just a few words about the chart business.
>
>All chart dealers buy sectionals from FAA for $4.80 each. That includes us,
>Sporty's (the largest chart dealer) Spruce, and everyone else. So, even at
>full retail ($8) there is not a lot of margin.
>
>The dream, of course is that subscribers would be subscribing to large
>amounts of charts, cause it doesn't take any more time to package 10 then it
>does for just one. But that's not typically how it works out. About a
>third to half of our subscribers get just a single item. And of those who
>do get multiple charts, chances are the renewal dates are spread throughout
>the year, making any given shipment still for just 1-2 items.
>
>Bottom line is that it is hard enough to maintain a viable business selling
>at full retail. I can't imagine how anyone can continue to do it as low as
>$5.99. $1.19 margin profit per chart minus about 25 cents for credit card
>fees and another 15-20 for envelopes and receipts is .79 cents. Between
>credit card processing, pulling, packing, receipt making, and record keeping
>it takes about 7-8 minutes to process an order (and thats when you get good
>at it) .85 cents times 8 per hour = $6.32 per hour. And thats not
>including all the others tasks you do for free (inventory maintenance,
>ordering, obsolete returns, accounting, advertising, tracking down expired
>credit cards, special customer service, etc.......) Someone is working
>pretty cheap.
>
>We sell sectionals for $7.65 which just covers the cost of $15 per hour
>salary for the guys who do the packing. Spruce and Sporty's, the two
>largest volume dealers sell for the full $8. They've been around for
>awhile, as have we. So if we can't make money on it, why do we bother? For
>us, (Sporty's and Spruce too) its a good way to keep in touch with our
>customers. This way, if we keep a relationship going, maybe you'll buy
>something else from us once in a while; ...things that do actually help pay
>the rent.
>
>But for the guy's to whom charts are their primary business? I've just got
>to scratch my head and wonder. It can't be much more than the dream that's
>keeping them alive.
>
>Andy
>Builder's Bookstore
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