Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:08 AM - Re: Wright brothers (Richard V. Reynolds)
2. 02:23 AM - Engine Plenum (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
3. 03:12 AM - Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... (Jim Sears)
4. 03:56 AM - Re: RV10 Tail kit Atlanta area? (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
5. 04:04 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (Don Eaves)
6. 05:28 AM - Re: Air screw..... (Phil N)
7. 05:49 AM - response to military question (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com)
8. 05:55 AM - Re: Traveling to Alabama (Dean)
9. 06:23 AM - Re: response to military question (Robert Miller)
10. 06:34 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (Scott Bilinski)
11. 06:34 AM - Re: Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Pat Hatch)
12. 06:43 AM - IFR schools? (Dan DeNeal)
13. 07:01 AM - Re: response to military question (linn walters)
14. 07:06 AM - Food for thought... (JOHN STARN)
15. 07:11 AM - Re: Engine Plenum ()
16. 07:14 AM - Re: IFR schools? ()
17. 07:20 AM - Re: First flight decisions (Greg Young)
18. 07:49 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (Gary Zilik)
19. 08:05 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (rob ray)
20. 08:06 AM - Re: Remote control winch? (Hal Rozema)
21. 08:12 AM - Re: First flight decisions (C. Rabaut)
22. 08:21 AM - Re: response to military question (rob ray)
23. 08:24 AM - Re: Wright brothers (rob ray)
24. 08:28 AM - Re: IFR schools? (Doug Rozendaal)
25. 08:30 AM - Re: IFR schools? (Doug Rozendaal)
26. 08:37 AM - Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (Joe & Jan Connell)
27. 08:44 AM - Re: Glenn's post/Food fight, etc (certainly non RV) (Ken Brooks)
28. 08:52 AM - Oil for engine start (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
29. 09:09 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
30. 09:15 AM - Drill Size??? (Frederick Oldenburg)
31. 09:23 AM - Re: IFR schools? (rv6tc)
32. 09:48 AM - Re: response to military question (RV_8 Pilot)
33. 10:11 AM - Re: IFR schools? (Laird Owens)
34. 10:27 AM - FL tax question (Ken Balch)
35. 10:29 AM - Re: Drill Size??? (Dana Overall)
36. 11:19 AM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Kevin Behrent)
37. 11:22 AM - Re: IFR schools? (Phil N)
38. 11:32 AM - Re: response to military question (Nick N)
39. 11:33 AM - Re: Drill Size??? (Rick Galati)
40. 11:36 AM - Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive (rob ray)
41. 11:37 AM - Re: response to military question (MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1))
42. 11:40 AM - Re: Traveling to Alabama (rob ray)
43. 11:46 AM - Re: Oil for engine start (linn walters)
44. 11:50 AM - Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges (Phil N)
45. 11:59 AM - Re: FL tax question (linn walters)
46. 12:03 PM - Re: Engine Plenum (Scott Bilinski)
47. 12:08 PM - panther piss (Wheeler North)
48. 12:31 PM - Re: FL tax question (Pat Hatch)
49. 12:36 PM - Re: FL tax question (Ken Balch)
50. 12:36 PM - Denso Alternator Part # (Jim Oke)
51. 12:54 PM - Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive (Jim Jewell)
52. 12:59 PM - Timing light (Wheeler North)
53. 01:11 PM - Re: Oil for engine start (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
54. 01:18 PM - Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (Lenleg@aol.com)
55. 01:25 PM - Re: FL tax question (Ken Balch)
56. 01:27 PM - OSH Vintage (Wheeler North)
57. 01:34 PM - Re: Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges (Richard Tasker)
58. 01:41 PM - Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive (Jim Oke)
59. 02:01 PM - Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (SportAV8R@aol.com)
60. 03:10 PM - LED Warning Lamps (Gary Zilik)
61. 03:17 PM - Re: Timing light (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
62. 03:25 PM - rv-list stupid questions (smoothweasel@juno.com)
63. 03:59 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (JDaniel343@aol.com)
64. 04:32 PM - Re: Drill Size??? (Patrick Kelley)
65. 04:36 PM - Re: FL tax question (Randy Compton)
66. 04:42 PM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
67. 05:00 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Ron Walker)
68. 05:01 PM - Cockpit Lights (J. R. Dial)
69. 05:09 PM - marvel carb fuel line attach question (Jerry Calvert)
70. 05:13 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps ()
71. 05:23 PM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (John)
72. 05:24 PM - Fw: Engine Plenum (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
73. 05:26 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Stein Bruch)
74. 06:12 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Gert)
75. 06:12 PM - Re: Traveling to Alabama (Jerry Isler)
76. 06:18 PM - RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly (Charlie & Tupper England)
77. 06:23 PM - Re: Oil for engine start (Cy Galley)
78. 06:48 PM - Re: Heat Muff (Cy Galley)
79. 07:31 PM - Re: FL tax question (linn walters)
80. 07:45 PM - Re: Oil for engine start (linn walters)
81. 07:48 PM - Re: marvel carb fuel line attach question (Don Eaves)
82. 07:48 PM - Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (kempthornes)
83. 08:08 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (kempthornes)
84. 08:23 PM - Re: tip-up rear window fit (Darwin N. Barrie)
85. 08:24 PM - Re: Cockpit Lights (GMC)
86. 08:30 PM - AeroElectric Connection Seminar (Bobby Hester)
87. 08:34 PM - New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's (Eustace Bowhay)
88. 08:34 PM - First flight decisons (Eustace Bowhay)
89. 09:32 PM - Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly (Richard E. Tasker)
90. 09:40 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Richard E. Tasker)
91. 09:40 PM - Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (James E. Clark)
92. 10:26 PM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Michael McGee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wright brothers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
In the Norfolrk, VA area, try:
SFQ Suffolk, VA
PVG Hampton Roads Exec (listed under Norfolk in the A/FD)
CPK Cheaapeake Regional (listed under Norfolk in the A/FD)
Due to hurricane Isabel, hangar space is limited as is marina space.
Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A
"David.vonLinsowe" wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com>
>
> Hi guys,
>
> I'm looking for a RV friendly airport in the vicinity of the Wright reenactment
December 17th. If the weather cooperates I would rather take the RV instead
of an airliner. It takes 6 1/2 hours travel time by airliner, not counting
the extra time you need to be there early, and 3 1/2 hours air time by RV from
Michigan. I already have tickets, ground transportation and hotel.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave
> RV-6
>
> ****************************************************************************************
>
> Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential
and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not
the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited.
If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately
by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
>
> ****************************************************************************************
>
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an 0-360A1A
and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed Aluminum Plenum
can give any feedback?
1) Would you do it again?
2) Notice better cooling?
3) Increased speed?
Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but very little
info in the archives.
Tom in Ohio
Cowling and paint
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears <sears@searnet.com>
> I believe you will find the EAA minimum level is $100,000 of liability the
pilot
> must have on himself before the EAA young Eagles policy kicks in for the
Million > I believe. Just being a member of EAA and filling out the forms -
flying young
> eagles doesn't mean you are covered. FOrms must be filled out and signed
> before YE flight, pilot must be legal, current and BFR'd and so on....As
well the
> local EAA chapter must have filled out the insurance coverage request from
> stating YE rides are to be given at that event too ... well in advance
before it is a > covered...
>
But, the YE pilot could take up kids at any time by just filling out the
forms in advance of each flight. I took up many kids, on the fly.
Sometimes a kid would show up at the field and would want a birthday flight.
If I was sitting there doing nothing and taking up space, the FBO would
sometimes direct them to me because it cost the parents nothing to do that,
if I could take up the kid. My flights with the kid would be more personal
because I'd look for the kid's home, school, places of interest to him or
her. I've made some kids very happy on their birthdays. I've even taken up
a whole birthday party of kids with any special events. You talk about
bragging rights for the kid! How many get to treat their guests to a
flight?
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
EAA Tech Counselor
Flight Leader #008787
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV10 Tail kit Atlanta area? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Well Michael,
I'm not working on the tail kit yet. Actually I have not started. I hope
to order one soon. But If I did, order one that is, and it arrived, and
I actually was putting her together, I would surely invite you over,
cause I do live in Atlanta.
Hope this was helpful:)
Mike
Oh man do not archive this sarcasm. Its early and I am trying to start
on a better foot than I did yesterday. The regulars will get this, the
newbess, well you will get it soon enough.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael D.
Crowe
Subject: RV-List: RV10 Tail kit Atlanta area?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D. Crowe"
<tripacer@bellsouth.net>
Does anyone in the Atlanta GA area have an RV10 tail kit I could come
look
at?
Thank You
Mike Crowe
RV8A wings
=
==
==
==
==
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Eaves" <doneaves@midsouth.rr.com>
Hello Tom -
I've been flying My 6 for over 200 hours:
Would I do it again? YES
Cooling has never been a problem - Many "Non-Plenum" RV's have reported
cooling problems.
Increased Speed: In the spirit of Van - I have nothing to compare it to, so
I cannot say if it is faster.
If you have anymore questions just email me - If you would like to call me ,
email me (offline) your number and I will be glad to.
Don Eaves
doneaves@midsouth.rr.com
RV 6 Flying 200 + Hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an
0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed
Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback?
> 1) Would you do it again?
> 2) Notice better cooling?
> 3) Increased speed?
> Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but
very little info in the archives.
>
Tom in Ohio
>
Cowling and paint
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
I was so enthralled with the idea of a 108,920 HP engine that I never
got to thinking about the size of the battery, starter or prop. Maybe I
can get my buddy from Hartzell to ask his engineers about the
pitch/diameter/RPM restrictions. I'll bet Team Rocket will do the
structural engineering analysis for us. :-)
Phil
Do not archive
> If Hartzell makes that prop, will it have a continuous use
> RPM restriction at 95 RPM through to 97.5 RPM???
> > Wonder what the pitch and diameter of the prop would be to
> get airborne at
> > the blinding RPM of 102. 8*) Kabong Do not archive
> > If you consider how big of a battery you are going to need to spin
> > the starter motor on that engine, I think you would just need to
> > extend the tail a little to get the CG in line :) What I want to
> > know is how many horse power is the starter motor for that engine.
> > That is one stat they didn't give on that web page.
> > I don't think the battery in the tail will help much with the CG
> > though. The wife might complain about the fuel burn, too.
> > http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/
Message 7
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| Subject: | response to military question |
11/19/2003 07:12:52 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my
response.
I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I
work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's
and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due
to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this
time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is
doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us
ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to
be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know
when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys.
and of course
do not archive
your friend
Glenn Williams
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Alabama |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
Alan
You might want to check out the Army Aviation Museum at Ft. Rucker which is
only about 5 miles or so from Enterprise. I haven't been there since the
new one opened, but understand that it is very good.
Dean
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: <N13eer@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Traveling to Alabama
> --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
>
> I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over
Thanksgiving. I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week
depending on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the
enterprise airport, or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to
call the FBO but plan to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight
while I'm in LA (lower Alabama)
>
> Thanks
> Alan Kritzman
> RV-8
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: response to military question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Robert Miller <rmiller3@earthlink.net>
Best luck, and absolute safety.
Robert
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
> Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my
> response.
>
> I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I
> work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's
> and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due
> to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this
> time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is
> doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us
> ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to
> be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know
> when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys.
>
> and of course
>
> do not archive
>
> your friend
> Glenn Williams
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I know 3 people who have gone the plenum route, and from what little info I
have my impression is they are no better than the standard style
baffling.........IF, you do a very good job on the baffling that is. My 8
and another 8 just flew for the first time this month I have standard
baffles and he has the alum plenum. His head temps are 10~15 degrees
hotter. I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15
degrees hotter than his but they are lower. I spent a lot of time on my
baffles sealing up everything. Where the baffles seal against the cowl I
did this in 3 pieces and pre curved them to fit the cowl. I spent days
getting this just right, but I am sure glad I did.
At 05:22 AM 11/19/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
>List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an
>0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed
>Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback?
> 1) Would you do it again?
> 2) Notice better cooling?
> 3) Increased speed?
> Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but very
>little info in the archives.
>
> Tom in Ohio
>
> Cowling and
>paint
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RE: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
One more thing to consider. The alclad only protects the surface of
aluminum skins, not the edges. A good friend who is a structures specialist
at a major airline once told me that in addition to priming the sheet, to be
sure and take a cue tip and hit all edges of a sheet with epoxy primer.
Often you have to trim or file to fit after priming--a good time to hit the
edges with the cue tip. I always keep the left-over primer in a glass jar
in the fridge for this purpose.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <sshah@shreyans.info>
Subject: RV-List: RE: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's?
> --> RV-List message posted by: sshah@shreyans.info
>
> My goodness! This message sent shiver down my spine. I thought the Van's
says
> that the alclad is good enough to deter corrosion and it's not necessary
to
> primer the alclad parts. Then, how can the skins get corroded! even if
there
> was dampness on the skin. I primer all internal parts but the outer
surfaces
> are all exposed and will be till I get to the final paint. I've stored the
> completed empennage parts in basement which is kind of dry environment but
> still exposed to all the condensation & moisture in the air. I'll shoot
myself
> if when I get the fuselage done few years down the road and find that the
> empennage is all corroded. Does everybody take some special measures to
reduce
> the humidity in the storage area? Do you coat the skins with something
before
> storage to avoid corrosion? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Shreyans
>
>
> > Subject: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's?
> > From: Kevin Behrent (kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com)
> > Date: Tue Nov 18 - 11:58 AM
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent
<kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
> >
> > Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
> > complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
> >
> > I've had both my emp & wing kit for a couple of years and haven't really
> > worked on the kits for a variety of reasons. Recently, I have gotten the
> > time and motivation to finish it. With emp done, I started on the wings
> > and had them ready for debur/dimple/priming when I started to peel the
> > plastic back to reveal what wasn't so apparent through the plastic. A
> > corrosion nightmare!
> >
> > Yeah, I had the kit for a couple of years, but it was stored in a dry
> > space and the emp kit sat just as long with no corrosion at all (plastic
> > still on!). After soliciting opinions/suggestions from several builders
> > in my chapter (EAA 326 - great chapter!!), I had the local FAA guy (also
> > a chapter member) come by and render the final fatal verdict. After a
> > close inspection, it appears that the plastic coating may have been
> > applied when the wing skins were damp since the corrosion is not only on
> > the edge, but everywhere.
> >
> > I called Van's today to beg for mercy and it was decided that I would
> > bring back the skins for their review and hopeful exchange (does not
> > appear likely). They did make a interesting comment that I suspect that
> > none of you have ever heard from them and the reason I am risking
> > getting flamed from our resident flamer(s). That is, why didn't I remove
> > the plastic "immediately" after receiving/inventoring the kit? Well,
> > that was news to me. Certainly I knew not to store in a wet/damp
> > environment, but it hadn't occurred to me that a dry environment was
> > just as bad.
> >
> > So builders beware, I guess the new Van's policy when receiving your
> > kit is to inventory and IMMEDIATELY remove ALL plastic coatings from
> > surfaces. While your admiring the pretty blue plastic after you've
> > carefully/skillfully/patiently removed the plastic where you'll be
> > riveting; leaving the remainder thinking you are protecting the surface
> > from scratches, it's corroding away leaving only the scratches from the
> > area that you DID peel the plastics!
> >
> > Do not archive.
> >
> > --
> > Kevin Behrent
> > rv-9a - wings
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking
to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are
looking for is a concentrated course where you can
spend a week and get your IFR rating.
I remember seeing something like this but can't locate
anybody that does it.
Dan DeNeal
RV6A - N256GD (130 hrs)
__________________________________
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: response to military question |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
>
>
>Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my
>response.
>
>
That's OK, mine is too! This is for Glenn and all the other military
guys that are keeping us safe and sound. Speaking of sound, turn up
those speakers!!! Makes me proud!!!
Linn
Watch this closely. It's so cool what the sea creatures end up doing.
Please be patient as this takes about 1 minute to load...but it's
worth it. Enjoy! (Be sure the sound is on.)
http://www.jacquielawson.com/viewcard.asp?code=1483260750
Message 14
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| Subject: | Food for thought... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Side thoughts....... AFTER it's built, how do you pick it up ?, that would
be some forklift/engine hoist/crane. They must have to build it in place,
hope the factory is close to the dock. What does the original engine test
stand look like ? To test bearing resistance on the crankshaft how long
does the handle of the torque wrench have to be & who do you get to pull on
it ?. 8*) KABONG Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Air screw.....
> I was so enthralled with the idea of a 108,920 HP engine that I never
> > If Hartzell makes that prop, will it have a continuous use
> > RPM restriction at 95 RPM through to 97.5 RPM???
> > > If you consider how big of a battery you are going to need to spin
> > > the starter motor on that engine, I > > >
http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
Lots of info in the archives (search on "plenum" yields 498 hits, several
threads on good or bad, would you do it again, etc).
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
> ...but
> very little info in the archives.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: IFR schools? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
http://www.iflyifr.com/
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking
> to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are
> looking for is a concentrated course where you can
> spend a week and get your IFR rating.
>
> I remember seeing something like this but can't locate
> anybody that does it.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6A - N256GD (130 hrs)
Message 17
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| Subject: | First flight decisions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Greg, I like your post. I also like the 'me' or 'him'
> dilemma. I flew
Thanks Linn. It's a dilema best sorted out ahead of time.
> >if all goes well, as it normally does, it boils down to a
> >bragging rights issue.
> >
> I agree to a point. For me it was more personal accomplishment than
> anything else. And, I didn't know any other Pitts pilots!
OK, bragging rights is too cavalier but it's still personal pride. It
was for me too. Nothing wrong with that if it doesn't override other
factors.
> I looked up the NTSB report on your accident, but, of course, it says
> the engine quit for unknown reasons. Do you have any theories? I
My working theory is vapor lock precipitated by a rich mixture. In the
next few weeks I plan to send the engine to Aerosport for teardown and
rebuild. At OSH Bart said the teardown and test run should detect any
problem. He also said he's seen other AFP servos that were too rich.
Others saw black smoke on my startups but never mentioned it. I wish
they had - never assume anything unusual you see has already been noted.
> >it as a favor? Is your family better off if it's not you hurt or
> >killed?
> >
> In today's litigous society, this is a very real problem. I would
> rather leave a widow than make one.
I'm sure most of us would sacrifice ourselves when faced with the
hypothetical schoolyard full of kids but in this context it can be
perfectly OK to let someone less risk adverse take the risk. Remember
it's risk not certainty. If you really anticipate a problem, no one
should fly it until resolved.
> >I had full first flight insurance and am otherwise covered but not
> >everyone is.
> >
> How much did that cost? Where did you get the coverage, abd
> how did you
> arrive at the coverage amount? I didn't know it existed.
It's readily available for RVs, try Nationair or others. In my case I
had builders insurance for several years along with the full coverage on
my Citabria from AIG. About a year before I flew, I got an unsolicited
rider saying I had first flight coverage on the RV. When I switched the
RV to full coverage I set the amount based on replacement cost. Policies
are "agreed value" so you don't want to set it lower than you're willing
to sell it to the insurance company.
> I think we all care. Was the medical expenses covered in the first
> flight insurance, or was that a separate policy? Insurance
> from work???
The bulk of the medical expense was paid by my regular health insurance.
The aircraft policy had $2K for medical which just about covered my
deductible and out of pocket. I own my own business so the time off was
a non-issue.
> IMHO, Greg made one mistake that got him caught. The
> narrative said he
> was returning to the airport when the engine quit. On my
> initial flight
> I climbed up to 3000' over my airport (the ceiling of class D at that
> time) and never was very far from safe haven. As the hours
> built up, I
> flew farther .... but always with a lot of altitude.
Even in hindsight I don't consider leaving the airport area a mistake.
It was a conscious, reasoned choice. My field is tower controlled under
a 2000' Class B floor and is surrounded by houses and trees. Open fields
and higher floors start about 2-3 miles west of the field. That gave me
unlimited forced landing sites and much more latitude (and altitude) to
explore the airplane. I had a fresh O/H that needed to run WOT. Getting
away made me more comfortable but others may choose differently or may
still consider it a mistake. That's OK. The true bad choice was not
climbing at the first indication of a mixture problem. I chose to carry
extra speed but stay at pattern altitude. Altitude would have given me
more options. Always climb at any hint of a problem.
> Thanks for giving us something to dwell on while our 'first
> flight' is
> in the future!!!
> Linn Walters
If anyone gleans something from my experience it helps mitigate the
loss. Of course not all lessons stick with us as they should as
evidenced by the recently drilled #30 hole in my index finger. At least
I've learned not to countersink it;-)
Take care,
Greg
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
>List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an 0-360A1A
and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed Aluminum Plenum
can give any feedback?
> 1) Would you do it again?
>
no
> 2) Notice better cooling?
>
no
> 3) Increased speed?
>
no
Gary Zilik
RV-6A
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
I helped completely mod a friends RV4 with the Sam James plenum, cowling, rings
and wheelpants/fairings. ALOT of time, effort and glass work. Net gain, maybe
5 knots, maybe. Also, slightly cooler temps....would I do it....negative ghostrider,
stock is just fine for me.
RR
racker@rmci.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by:
Lots of info in the archives (search on "plenum" yields 498 hits, several
threads on good or bad, would you do it again, etc).
Rob Acker (RV-6 flying)
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin"
> ...but
> very little info in the archives.
---------------------------------
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Remote control winch? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Rozema <hartist1@cox.net>
Home Depot Wireless Switch... electrical department
Dan DeNeal wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> I have a winch that was left in my hangar from the
> last person that had the hangar. I thought I would
> never need it to pull my RV6a into the hangar since
> the RV's are easy to push or pull.
>
> The end or March this past year we had some snow that
> blanketed the area leaving the taxiway in front of my
> hangar very slippery. When I realized I couldn't push
> the plane back into the hangar because of the ice, I
> grabbed the cable on the winch and hooked it to the
> RV.
> The winch saved the day!!!
>
> The winch is an old winch and uses an extension wire
> you have to unwind all the way to the front of the
> plane. Then you have to hold down the switch while the
> cable is winding up while your other hand is steering
> the front wheel.
>
> Where can I buy something like a garage door remote
> control that I could use to replace the extension
> wire. I'm looking for the remote and the receiver. I
> can find remotes but all the receivers seem to be
> attached to the garage door mechanisam. It just needs
> to start and stop.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6A N256GD
> I love my plane!!!
>
> __________________________________
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: First flight decisions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Greg,
Thank you VERY much for this (& all your previous posts). You may've in
deed already saved someone else. BTW, I'm sure you didnot forget to
deburr & prime that hole. :-}
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Young <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> If anyone gleans something from my experience it helps mitigate the
> loss. Of course not all lessons stick with us as they should as
> evidenced by the recently drilled #30 hole in my index finger. At least
> I've learned not to countersink it;-)
>
> Take care,
> Greg
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: response to military question |
--> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Glenn;
Make sure all you standard stuff is in order, especially your family support.
We deployed to base-X to fly combat missions back In January.With 7+ RV's in
the Squadron and orders cut to be gone for a year alot of us were concerned not
only whether we would be back and when, but "what about my airplane". I didn't
completely "pickle" my RV4 but I did spray LPS-3 in alot of places including
down the spark plug holes. I bought a set of desacent spark plug inserts as
well. Turns out we were only gone a little over 100 days and the RV looked great
when I got back. Also, it started on the first blade. I think the Rose ignition
has alot to do with that anyway.
I ended up flying over 100 hours of combat time, mostly at night in OIF.I can't
say enough about the outstanding young SF troops on the ground we worked with.
You will also be impressed with the support from home.
We ARE the greatest nation on the earth because of people, like you.
God Speed!
Rob Ray
RV41100 fun hours
F16 2875 proud hours
glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com
Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my
response.
I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I
work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's
and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due
to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this
time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is
doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us
ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to
be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know
when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys.
and of course
do not archive
your friend
Glenn Williams
---------------------------------
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wright brothers |
--> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Manteo, NC is the nicest and closest if you don't have reservations for FF airport.
Go to Airnav.com for more info and cheap gas closeby.
RR
"David.vonLinsowe" <David.vonLinsowe@delphi.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe"
Hi guys,
I'm looking for a RV friendly airport in the vicinity of the Wright reenactment
December 17th. If the weather cooperates I would rather take the RV instead of
an airliner. It takes 6 1/2 hours travel time by airliner, not counting the
extra time you need to be there early, and 3 1/2 hours air time by RV from Michigan.
I already have tickets, ground transportation and hotel.
Thanks,
Dave
RV-6
****************************************************************************************
Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential
and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the
intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this
message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination,
distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If
you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by
replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you.
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---------------------------------
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: IFR schools? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Their is one in Albert Lea MN Called MN Aviation. They also have operations
in other MN towns, they do a pretty good job. That is not too far from
Danville. For 3 guys they might come to you.
http://www.private2atp.com/details/1629.html
The owner is Mike Nesbitt, he is a good guy, tell him I sent you.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking
> to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are
> looking for is a concentrated course where you can
> spend a week and get your IFR rating.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: IFR schools? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
This is a better link to MN Aviation
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/roedder_gmbh/mike1.htm
Doug Rozendaal
Message 26
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| Subject: | Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
Gentlemen (and ladies too),
I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until
the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM
IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4
postings.
Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio?
Thanks,
Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage)
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Glenn's post/Food fight, etc (certainly non RV) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
Hey, JT!
Irregardless and orientate are two of MY pet peeves too! (My wife says I
have lots of them) Let's start a new thread. Better yet, lets start a new
-list! Just kidding. The best one I've heard was during a masters degree
course presentation when the speaker used the word "flustrated." Very
inventive, I thought, but not one you'd expect of an "educated" person.
Just goes to show that anyone can get an advanced degree if they have the
time and money.
Okay, okay -- not what this list is for, etc., etc. At least I'm not
FLAMING anyone! Now, where did I put that last RV-ator? Do Not Archive
Ken Brooks
Roscoe, IL
RV-8 Cussing at the Canopy
Message 28
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| Subject: | Oil for engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy list-
I filled my O-320 with 8 qts. of Aeroshell 100 when purchased about 4 years
ago and am curious if I can use this oil for the first time the engine has run
since going into storage. The filter was on the engine when purchased and
looks like it was fresh then, but I'm not sure of it's actual age. Any reason
not to use this oil & filter at least just for the initial fire-up, then replace
once I know the connecting rods, pistons etc are going to stay inside? It
has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated regularly since
purchased.
Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the engine
has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up and
seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended?
Thanks!
Mark -6A N51PW going to the airport REAL soon! do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
In a message dated 11/19/2003 6:36:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15
degrees hotter than his but they are lower.
I heard one of the advertising claims for the electronic ignition was that it
lowered the cylinder head temperature.
Which electronic ignition manufacturer are you using?
Jim Ayers
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number (e.g.
#12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered bit?
For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call for
an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how this works,
the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet diameter (4/16
or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here.
However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in assembly with
fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not drill this now, but
wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this happens....am I supposed
to use a 3/16 bit?
Are these assumptions correct?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: IFR schools? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
Dan,
Oh... man, I may get flamed for this, but here goes....
I got my ATP through one of those one week course, so I'm not really one to
talk. But please, do yourself a favor, and if you do get a quick IFR
ticket, make sure before you fly in actual IFR, you get lots of practice
with experienced pilots, both under the hood and in actual IFR. Learning
the principals and rules is not at all difficult, but you really do need
more practice than you can get in a week. Ask anyone that's flown a lot in
the weather, there are times it can be incredibly challenging.
Just my $.02.
Keith Hughes
RV-6, finish
Denver
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan DeNeal" <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: IFR schools?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>
> Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking
> to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are
> looking for is a concentrated course where you can
> spend a week and get your IFR rating.
>
> I remember seeing something like this but can't locate
> anybody that does it.
>
> Dan DeNeal
> RV6A - N256GD (130 hrs)
>
> __________________________________
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: response to military question |
FROM_HAS_UNDERLINE_NUMS
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Thanks, Glenn! we all owe you and your buddies so much for your willingness
to do the tough job.
In hindsight, I sure wish I'd served at least one tour. It's been my belief
for the last 10-15 yrs that young people should graduate high school, join
the military, *then* go to college or do what they want with their life.
Thanks again.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
>I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I
>work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's
>and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due
>to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this
>time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is
>doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us
>ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to
>be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know
>when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys.
Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment,
video game reviews, and more here.
http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: IFR schools? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens <owens@aerovironment.com>
I've got to wonder about these one week courses. I just got my
ticket 6 months ago, and it took several months of flying 2-3 times a
week plus ground school studying. I think I had close to sixty hours
of 172 time by the time I took my practical, and I didn't feel ready
even then. Maybe I'm a slow learner (mom has said several times that
I "MUST" have been dropped on my head at birth...) but I don't see
how one could absorb that much info in that amount of time.
Now if you have the ground school done, and 20 or so hours of
previous hood time, I MIGHT be able to believe it could be done.
Now I'm not trying to bust on the schools that do these intense week
classes (I used PIC's text as a basis for real world IFR flying and
thought it was a very good text) but it just makes me wonder.....
Laird RV-6 SoCal
(Flew solo in the clouds for the first time last week....freaky!)
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal <rv6apilot@yahoo.com>
>>
>> Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking
>> to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are
>> looking for is a concentrated course where you can
> > spend a week and get your IFR rating.
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
Hey Guys,
Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What
am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and
they get wind of my RV?
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Size??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Fred, yep and yep. Don't drill those four holes yet as they are the
attachment points of the HS to the fuselage. Use the drill size they call
out.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
>From: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Drill Size???
>Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 10:15:35 -0700 (GMT-07:00)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg
><foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
>When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number
>(e.g. #12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered
>bit?
>
>For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call
>for an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how
>this works, the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet
>diameter (4/16 or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here.
>
>However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in
>assembly with fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not
>drill this now, but wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this
>happens....am I supposed to use a 3/16 bit?
>
>Are these assumptions correct?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Fred
>
>
>Fred Oldenburg
>RV-7A - Empennage
>http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
From the hottest toys to tips on keeping fit this winter, youll find a
range of helpful holiday info here.
http://special.msn.com/network/happyholidays.armx
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent <kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
I've checked my instructions and no where does it say to remove the plastic
covering as Van's suggested on the phone. I've seen in one message thread that
it
appears in the RV-10 instructions, but only to advise that the blue film is
easier to remove if it is removed sooner rather than later.
I will be making the long drive where I live in Washington State to Van's this
Friday to bring the skins for them to look at. I don't hold much hope in them
helping resolve the problem only because I haven't had much luck with them. I've
been asked many times why I've taken so long on my kit. Publicly, I've said I was
too busy, but close friends know that I was frustrated with the kit due to the
problems and lack of support I got from Van's.
For example, my first set of horz stab skins were bowed so bad that they created
a enormous dent in the center ribs (1/8 shims on both sides didn't come close to
fixing). It appeared that the skins actually had a crease it them when they
originally bent the skins so that it wasn't going to lay down. I bought a new set
and drove down to pick them up. When I arrived, the skins were ducted tape closed
on each end with nothing in the middle which caused them to pooch out that
created a crease in the middle. I complained and was told to take it or leave
it. When I returned home, I found that they fit worse than my originals.
Needless to say, it took a year of heating, bending, shaping to finally get them
to fit right.
When continuing to work on the emp, I had problems relating the instructions to
the drawings. Only after reviewing another rv-9 builders plans did I discover
that my drawings were missing complete sections. Now I know why there was text
with an arrow pointing into a blank space!! I called Van's and as usual the
individual I spoke to didn't care and simply wanted to SELL me the preview plan
set (which was not available when I originally bought my kit). I responded, "why
should I buy a preview plan set when I already have a set of plans?". They
weren't willing to send me a replacement drawing(s) nor were they willing to sell
me new copies of the drawings in questions. After much begging and listening to
the Van's employee rant about the effort it would take on his part, I received
photocopies (poor quality) of the missing sections on my drawings. Needless to
say, I now own a set of preview plans thanks to a generous gift from a friend.
Thus I was finally able to finish my emp.
At the Van's homecoming, I made the mistake of asking one of the "well known"
Van's employees what kind of wash primer was being used on the QB kits. Now, I've
been around long enough to know NOT to ask them about whether or not to prime.
I
simply wanted to know the brand, not his opinion. Instead, I got a ear full of
his opinion of me asking such a stupid question to the point I walked away before
I embarassed myself and give him mine! Mind you that his boss was standing next
to him looking really uncomfortable about his reaction, but not willing to do
anything about it.
I'm only talking about a couple of individuals here and not the entire company.
I
am certainly not talking about Van himself, of which I have the utmost respect
for. But, my experiences and hearing other similiar or even worse experiences
leads me to believe that Van's reputation for customer support is really at risk
because of these individuals and Van's mgmt need to address it before it becomes
the norm. Giving the growing size of the operation, they need to bring on people
who know how to provide customer service and properly manage it. Some of the
individuals they have don't have the experience, attitude or professionalism to
provide it. They are probably best left designing the next series of RVs.
So, Friday is an important day for me and my relationship with Van's. I will be
meeting with someone I've never met but have heard good things about. I don't
plan on bringing my past experiences up and certainly hope this person will
exercise better "customer support" than I have experienced in the past. One way
or another, I will be bringing home new skins.
Thanks for listening. No need to comment. I feel better, for now.
Do not archive.
linn walters wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I'd like to make a suggestion: Take pictures of the corrosion and send
> them to Van. If you have small pieces of aluminum with the corrosion
> .... send them too. There is obviously a problem that should be
> addressed. I do not know when the film is applied, but the adhesive may
> be the culprit. Nobody will know unless the problem is addressed ....
> and Van is the proper focal point. The aluminum sheets we use are
> coated with pure aluminum. It's very thin, and scratches can easily
> penetrate through the clad to the base aluminum alloy and produce the
> possibility of corrosion. This is why it's good to protect the clad by
> leaving the film on and only removing the film where riveting. So, as
> it was so eloquently put .... between a rock and a hard place .... what
> to do. Another lister read his plans/instructions ... which said remove
> the film. Seems like that's what y'all should do.
> Linn Walters
> Do not archive
>
> Curt Hoffman wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
> >
> >This thread worried my some so I went downstairs to pull off the plastic on
> >my wings. I have had my wing kit for about three years now. Long enough that
> >the plastic on the wings is the old clear stuff while the plastic on the
> >tail is blue (I went backwards since I had already built a tail on a -6).
> >After removing all the plastic I found some corrosion. Mostly was little pin
> >spots here and there but one of the bottom skins I haven't riveted yet
> >pending my electrical decisions had quite a bit. Looked like little tiny
> >dots. I was able to polish them out with some scrubbing with a scotch brite
> >pad. The insides of all the surfaces were all fine since I alodined and
> >primered them.
> >
> >As to the old plastic getting hard to remove- it is a lot easier to remove
> >the old clear plastic from the wings then the brand new blue plastic off the
> >rudder and elevators. That blue stuff is thinner and sticks a lot more. I
> >think because it is thinner it tears / punctures easier instead of just
> >pulling off.
> >
> >I guess I had seen so many pictures of wings with only the plastic over the
> >rivet lines removed I latched on to that plan. It does protect the skin from
> >scratches but as noted can cause some corrosion. Rocks and hard places come
> >to mind for us slow builders.
> >
> >Curt Hoffman
> >RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail
> >Quick build fuselage now in basement
> >Piper Cherokee N5320W
> >1974 TR6
> >
>
--
Kevin Behrent
Cascadia Software, Inc.
3600 Port of Tacoma Road
Suite 210
Tacoma, WA 98424
Wrk: (253) 896-4000 x104
Fax: (253) 896-3680
kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
I second this!
Here's what my Flight Safety instructor told me: Your IFR rating is
nothing more than a ticket to learn more. Nobody is ready to tackle
hard weather without considerably more ACTUAL experience. To this day
(16 years later), since I don't get enough time in actual IFR I
typically take a safety pilot along with me if I know I am going to be
in weather. If I hit it along the way, I am trained to handle it but I
don't go looking for it solo. Read the NTSB reports and you'll be
surprised to find how many guys take their newly minted Instrument
Rating into the clouds and bury themselves.
Phil
> I got my ATP through one of those one week course, so I'm not
> really one to talk. But please, do yourself a favor, and if
> you do get a quick IFR ticket, make sure before you fly in
> actual IFR, you get lots of practice with experienced pilots,
> both under the hood and in actual IFR. Learning the
> principals and rules is not at all difficult, but you really
> do need more practice than you can get in a week. Ask anyone
> that's flown a lot in the weather, there are times it can be
> incredibly challenging.
Message 38
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| Subject: | response to military question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" <rvator@nicknaf.com>
That's just exactly what I did. ;-) Don't regret it a bit, I found the
time I spent in the military opened my eyes to a lot of cultural
exposure I would have not gotten.
I applaud those currently serving in our current state of un-ease. I
can't imagine what it is like constantly not knowing where you will be
in the next month. At least when I was in I knew (doing figure 8's in
the Persian Gulf). Best of luck!
Nick Nafsinger
3 years USS Nimitz w/ 2 Persian G. Tours, Shipscompany, Aviation
Electronics.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV_8 Pilot
Subject: Re: RV-List: response to military question
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Thanks, Glenn! we all owe you and your buddies so much for your
willingness
to do the tough job.
In hindsight, I sure wish I'd served at least one tour. It's been my
belief
for the last 10-15 yrs that young people should graduate high school,
join
the military, *then* go to college or do what they want with their life.
Thanks again.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
>I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I
>work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches,
OH-58's
>and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time
due
>to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at
this
>time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is
>doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us
>ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was
supposed to
>be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we
know
>when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys.
Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment
equipment,
video game reviews, and more here.
http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx
=
==
==
==
==
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Size??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Fred,
Yes, your assumptions are correct and strictly speaking you are to use a 3/16 drill
bit. Now heres where I get anal about hole quality as insisted upon and
my shop experience at McDonnell-Douglas. First, I would in assembly and using
a drill block to insure perpendicularity, drill a #40 or #30 pilot hole through
the assembly. Then, using various drill bit sizes on hand, bring the hole
up to the .1800-.1850 range in as many steps as desired. Finally I would use
a .1875 reamer marinated in boelube or similar for the final full size reaming.
When you have an inspector ball gauge every bolt hole you drill, and the
average hole can and will be rejected for being as little as 3 thousanths oversize
or even less, you tend to learn quickly how little the range of acceptability
really is, at least on combat aircraft. In a nutshell, any hole that will
be filled with a bolt, close tolerance or otherwise, should in good practice
be brought up to full size with a reamer. The steps
I just
outlined are certainly not necessary for the average subsonic homebuilt, but I
dont think of my RV as merely average.
Rick Galati RV-6A finishing
--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number (e.g.#12)
Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered bit? For
example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call for an
AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how this works,the
#30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet diameter (4/16or
1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here.
However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in assembly withfuselage,
4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not drill this now, but
wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this happens....am I supposed
to use a 3/16 bit?
Are these assumptions correct?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
---------------------------------
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
BTW, where in the civilized world is Kelowna?
RR
In Texas...
Jim Jewell <jjewell@telus.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell"
Hello,
To everyone like me on this list that can not always resist the temptation
to jump directly out of a lack of information, directly into a forgone
conclusion without using the dreaded "do not archive".
What ever happened to the once common adage that suggested; People who live
in glass houses should not throw stones?:
With just a bit of experience with the use of a computer keyboard and some
spare time on the web, anyone!, from anywhere in the world!, can enter the
RV-List archives house of mirrors and see clearly into even the darkest of
it's corners.
Once again I will point out that by entering your own name into the rv-list
archives search box you to can peruse all that you have said over the years.
That is of course with the exclusion of the times that you did, wisely or
not, elect to use the by now infamous Do Not Archive while posting.
Regardless of your position re-the current flap, or some other emotion
grabbing future issue:
If you are overcome with the need to respond or otherwise jump into this,
that or another one of these topics or any future inevitable out of context
"food fights";
First try entering your own name in the archive search box.
If you are judgmentally satisfied with your own past behavior on the list
and are not in the least a bit humbled by what you find there? You will most
likely feel inclined to carry on and provide the list with yet another bit
of well thought out wisdom without the need for the use of the famous Do Not
Archive.
About stupid questions;
For most of us the stupid questions we asked in the past have put us into
the position of being able to ask much more highly evolved stupid questions.
Questions that might impress the hell out of all except those whom have
traveled the road before us.
There is hope. The list has a way of surviving these bad riveting days.
If you have read this far and are not yet amused at the tongue in cheek
intent herein. There is but one thing I might suggest;
Go back to the shop and work on your airplane, {(;-)!
Jim in Kelowna Oh!. and,... DO NOT ARCHIVE (;-)
---------------------------------
Message 41
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| Subject: | response to military question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" <stephanie.marshall@hp.com>
I second that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I wish I had done something like that instead of going straight to college
and wasting my loan money when I had NO clue of what I really wanted to do.
Steph
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV_8 Pilot
Subject: Re: RV-List: response to military question
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Thanks, Glenn! we all owe you and your buddies so much for your willingness
to do the tough job.
In hindsight, I sure wish I'd served at least one tour. It's been my belief
for the last 10-15 yrs that young people should graduate high school, join
the military, *then* go to college or do what they want with their life.
Thanks again.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
>I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I
>work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's
>and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due
>to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this
>time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is
>doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us
>ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to
>be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know
>when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys.
Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment,
video game reviews, and more here.
http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Alabama |
--> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Since I live there most of the time and grew up in "LA", seeing Destin, FL (57nm)
or Dog Island/Apalachicola on a day trip is a must. Stop by my place if you
can (Skyranch, 1 nm North of the CEW VOR) 8 RV's are based on the grass strip,
you're always welcome.
I would see the Army aviation museum as mentioned also.
Have fun.
RR
N13eer@aol.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over Thanksgiving.
I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week depending
on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the enterprise airport,
or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to call the FBO but plan
to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight while I'm in LA (lower Alabama)
Thanks
Alan Kritzman
RV-8
---------------------------------
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Oil for engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy list-
>
>I filled my O-320 with 8 qts. of Aeroshell 100 when purchased about 4 years
>ago and am curious if I can use this oil for the first time the engine has run
>since going into storage. The filter was on the engine when purchased and
>looks like it was fresh then, but I'm not sure of it's actual age. Any reason
>not to use this oil & filter at least just for the initial fire-up, then replace
>once I know the connecting rods, pistons etc are going to stay inside?
>
Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is
cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance.
> It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated regularly since
>purchased.
>
This was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the
sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any
good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of
oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the
rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact.
The oil will not stay there.
>Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the engine
>has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up and
>seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended?
>
This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a
throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control
to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If
there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture
control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the
throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well,
just bolt it on and go with no worries.
Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then
there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of
time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you back.
>
>Thanks!
>Mark -6A N51PW going to the airport REAL soon! do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
I've been plugging along making a stack of deburred HS ribs this week.
It takes me something like 20-30 minutes of deburring per piece to get
what I consider a satisfactory part based on Van's instructions.
Tedious is the word for this, but I thought it was what must be done. I
was reading a RV8 website last night (can't remember which one) and the
guy stated "it took two hours to deburr and square the flanges of the
ribs for the HS". Sheesh, I have twice that already and am not even
done deburring let alone squaring!
Is 20-30 minutes per rib for deburring excessive (perfectionism)? (File,
v-groove deburring tool, Scotchbrite wheel on exposed edges, hand sand
nooks and crannies with 400 emery cloth)
What about squaring the flange, do I just hand bend the edges to the
point they look pretty close or do I need to get out my square and
seamer and make sure they're perfect?
Yup, there sure are references to squared flanges in the archives. But
"straighten them or you'll see them" doesn't tell me if eyeballing is
sufficient or if I need to get the square out. (OK, I need a little
reassurance here..... I'll take my "insecure perfectionist" issues up
with a shrink as soon as I am done building and have the spare time :-)
While I'm at it, I'll ask about fluting to straighten the ribs. My ribs
range from no bow to the worst being bowed 3/32 (HS806?) I figured to
get the 3/32 ones down to the 1/16th range but leave the rest alone. Is
1/16th inch bow good, or should I spend another 5 minutes per part
trying to get them closer than that? (and run the risk of ruining
one....) It is my assumption that, as wide as the rib is, if I get it
within 1/16th and properly positioned in relation to the PP holes, I
will be good to go.
Thanks!
Phil
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: FL tax question |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Ken Balch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
>
>Hey Guys,
>
>Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What
>am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and
>they get wind of my RV?
>
>Regards,
>Ken Balch
>RV-8 N118KB
>
>
>
FL has sales tax (6%, but some counties have an extra penny) and an
airplane use/luxury .... something like that that you pay good money for
a lousy sticker. That 'sticker' tax is poorly enforced and almost
totally ignored. HOWEVER, if you're a FL resident, when you register
ANY airplane, the state will come after you for sales tax, including
penalties. Some folks play the tax game by buying an airplane and
putting something less than full price on the FAA paperwork, and buying
a headset (that's in the plane already) for the other half. 2 bills of
sale. The same game can be played any of a number of ways. Just besure
you have a bill of sale reflecting the 'registered' price. When the
airplane is a kit, with multiple invoices, you can probably get away
with using something less than all the invoices, if you get my drift.
All you have to do is be able to justify the value if it comes to an audit.
Linn
do not archive
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I am using LightSpeed elect ign. It lowers exhaust gas temps and raises
cylinder head temps. This is due to all the mixture burning in the
combustion chamber and none in the exhaust.
At 12:08 PM 11/19/03 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 11/19/2003 6:36:26 AM Pacific Standard Time,
>bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
>I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15
>degrees hotter than his but they are lower.
>I heard one of the advertising claims for the electronic ignition was that it
>lowered the cylinder head temperature.
>
>Which electronic ignition manufacturer are you using?
>
>Jim Ayers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 47
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Ok, so does this mean panther's can piss primer if peed through a packed
port?
And I did check the archives on panther's pissing primer to no avail.
W ;{)
Time: 04:50:05 PM PST US
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Humm
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Only if you used the "Wrong Primer" on the breather tube. Sorry couldn't
resist.
Tom in Ohio
Do not
archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Humm
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> So if I read yesterday's digest right I can summarize that if you try to
get
> a panther to piss through a breather tube plugged with sugar your canopy
> will craze.
>
> I suppose I can see that happening.
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: FL tax question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Ken,
Depending on the county you are in, sales tax ranges from 6.5% and higher
(7% here in Indian River County). There is no personal property tax here
like there is in some states, like North Carolina for example. If you are
moving to Florida and have already paid the sales tax on your car or
airplane in another state, you do not owe Florida sales tax--unless it has
been less than 6 months since you paid the sales tax. Sounds to me like you
will not owe any sales tax at all...disclaimer: I am not a tax attorney and
what I am telling you is my personal experience only!
Hope this helps.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: FL tax question
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
>
> Hey Guys,
>
> Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What
> am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and
> they get wind of my RV?
>
> Regards,
> Ken Balch
> RV-8 N118KB
>
>
Message 49
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| Subject: | Re: FL tax question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
linn walters wrote:
>FL has sales tax (6%, but some counties have an extra penny) and an
>airplane use/luxury .... something like that that you pay good money for a lousy
sticker. That 'sticker' tax is poorly enforced and almost totally ignored.
HOWEVER, if you're a FL resident, when you register ANY airplane, the state
will come after you for sales tax, including penalties. Some folks play the tax
game by buying an airplane and putting something less than full price on the
FAA paperwork, and buying a headset (that's in the plane already) for the other
half. 2 bills of sale. The same game can be played any of a number of ways.
Just besure you have a bill of sale reflecting the 'registered' price. When
the airplane is a kit, with multiple invoices, you can probably get away with
using something less than all the invoices, if you get my drift. All you
have to do is be able to justify the value if it comes to an audit.
>Linn
>do not archive
>
>
Hi Linn,
Thanks for the info. One question: In the case of a completed kitplane
(whose components were purchased while living in another state), why
would I owe FL any sales tax at all? I wasn't a Florida resident when
any portion of my RV was bought or assembled. All I'm doing is
transferring an existing registration (with all applicable sales taxes
paid) to a new address. I'm not going to pay sales tax twice on the
same items...!!!
Ken
Message 50
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| Subject: | Denso Alternator Part # |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Can anyone comment on the commercial usage of a Nippon Denso alternator part number
18504-6220? An alternative part number is 100211-1680, apparently the actual
manufacturer is Ishikawajina and this is their part number. IOW, is there
car make/model/year that utilizes this alternator?
The situation is that I have one of this alternators on my -6A that came with an
Aerosport O-320 (it's the 35 A alternator). It works really well and I would
like to retrofit one to my RV-3 and a local autoparts house would be a convenient
source.
If someone could quote the Canadian Tire product number (they're a big chain of
car parts places in the GWN) that would be worth some bonus points.
thanks,
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A C-GKGZ
RV-3 C-FIZM
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Rob,
Kelowna is in British Columbia Canada. It is about 150 miles inland from the
coast and 90 miles North of the 49th parallel.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
>
> BTW, where in the civilized world is Kelowna?
>
> RR
> In Texas...
>
> Jim Jewell <jjewell@telus.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell"
>
> Hello,
>
> To everyone like me on this list that can not always resist the temptation
> to jump directly out of a lack of information, directly into a forgone
> conclusion without using the dreaded "do not archive".
>
> What ever happened to the once common adage that suggested; People who
live
> in glass houses should not throw stones?:
>
> With just a bit of experience with the use of a computer keyboard and some
> spare time on the web, anyone!, from anywhere in the world!, can enter the
> RV-List archives house of mirrors and see clearly into even the darkest of
> it's corners.
>
> Once again I will point out that by entering your own name into the
rv-list
> archives search box you to can peruse all that you have said over the
years.
> That is of course with the exclusion of the times that you did, wisely or
> not, elect to use the by now infamous Do Not Archive while posting.
>
> Regardless of your position re-the current flap, or some other emotion
> grabbing future issue:
>
> If you are overcome with the need to respond or otherwise jump into this,
> that or another one of these topics or any future inevitable out of
context
> "food fights";
>
> First try entering your own name in the archive search box.
> If you are judgmentally satisfied with your own past behavior on the list
> and are not in the least a bit humbled by what you find there? You will
most
> likely feel inclined to carry on and provide the list with yet another bit
> of well thought out wisdom without the need for the use of the famous Do
Not
> Archive.
>
> About stupid questions;
> For most of us the stupid questions we asked in the past have put us into
> the position of being able to ask much more highly evolved stupid
questions.
> Questions that might impress the hell out of all except those whom have
> traveled the road before us.
>
> There is hope. The list has a way of surviving these bad riveting days.
>
> If you have read this far and are not yet amused at the tongue in cheek
> intent herein. There is but one thing I might suggest;
>
> Go back to the shop and work on your airplane, {(;-)!
>
>
> Jim in Kelowna Oh!. and,... DO NOT ARCHIVE (;-)
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 52
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
John,
let me add a little too much to Cy's response.
First, roughly said, timing is set to cause the maximum average of pressure
created to exchange the most amount of rotary force into the crankshaft. The
rate of fuel burn (180-220ft per sec) doesn't vary much within normal
oprating air/fuel ratios. So if the piston is coming up faster then one has
to spark it earlier to achieve the above stated pressure cycle at the right
time. This pressure timing point is known as Powell's magic angle (15 deg
ATDC) and is true for all reciprocating engines. The other factors that
effect the spark timing point is the rate that the induction and exhaust can
ventilate the cylinder, and what RPM range the engine is designed to deliver
its torque. In any event RPM is the big factor in spark timing.
Because aircraft engines are coupled to their drive environment
hydraulically (ie a prop in air) rather than in a fixed fashion like a tire
on the road, and the fact that this prop has a fairly tight range of torque
conversion to thrust (ie AOA of the wing shape only delivers load to the
engine, or thrust from the engine in a fairly narrow range of RPM, where a
car has to deliver high torque from just above idle to max RPM) they only
really need to be timed for a narrow range of RPM. Its easier and more
reliable to fix the timing for one RPM value, below that RPM they are over
advanced, and above that RPM they are under advanced in timing.
So lets say one sets the mags to be most efficent at 75% power which for a
fixed pitch which might be 2400 RPM. (This may vary slightly with constant
speed engines, but the usually aim for a similar timing RPM, and that said,
a constant speed engine is one place that an advanced electronic ignition
can really add to fuel efficiency) If the engine goes above this the timing
is retarded for that RPM, which is good because it reduces detonation some.
If it goes below then it is too far advanced, but who cares because at power
settings below 75% a little advance will add power without causing
detonation. In any event the total RPM range from 50% to 100% power might be
600 rpm rather than the 4000 rpm range you would find in a ground engine.
The only time there is a problem is when starting, as the timing is way too
advanced for 150-300 RPM. In this case they use devices to retard only
during starting such as an impulse coupler or shower of sparks.
Therefore having the time change in an aircraft engine doesn't do much. And
having it right on to the 10th of a deg is meaningless becasue you are just
saying it most effecient at 2400 rpm rather than 2410. Who cares. It is far
more important to get both mags equal then it is to get them on the right
deg. And most specs allow for a fairly wide range of error, say .5 to 1.5
degs.
Given that the radius of the ring gear is roughly 10 inches, the
circumference is 62.8", therefore each degree is roughly 3/16" of travel at
the ring gear. With static timing methods that's a lot of sensitivity, there
is no need to have a fancy dynamic device for setting this. The real
advantage of dynamic timing is it allows one to also test the advancing
features of the automotive distributor, but I can assure you that I can get
an automotive distributor as accurately timed satically as I can
dynamically. I've done it many times when its a bitch to get the timing gun
aimed on the pully.
This is probably far more than you ever wanted to know though.
W
Time: 01:31:04 PM PST US
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Safety Concerns
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I have always timed my Lycoming with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the timing
mark aligned with the case halves. This has worked for a long time.
I now want to get more technical and have purchased a fancy digital timing
light that has a LCD screen with direct read out.
My concern is: How to use the light on a running engine...I have an RV6A and
would have to be up on a step stool behind the prop in order to see what's
going on. The notion of slipping off the stool, or otherwise getting tangled
up in the prop has me, frankly, more than "concerned" -I can't see standing
in from of the prop with the engine going and using the light....
What do you techies do in such a situation?
(And, yes, I have checked the archives first.)
John
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Oil for engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Thanks for the reply- Notes "imbedded" below....
> Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is
> cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance.
>
Agreed- just curious if the oil could actually "age" lying dormant in the
engine four years- has had dessicant plugs in entire time and cover plates bolted
to exhaust & carb openings- breather & all oil ports plugged... I mean, if
there is nothing "wrong" with the oil, why toss it out?
> > It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated
> regularly since
> >purchased.
> >
> This was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the
> sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any
> good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of
> oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the
> rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact.
> The oil will not stay there.
>
Clarification- Until bolting to the mount, it was on an engine stand and
rotated, or flipped over to submerge the cam & coat the cylinders every couple
of
months. I also spun it with the starter (plugs out) about once a year until a
gauge connected to it showed pressure, about 30-35 psi IIRC.
> >Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the
> engine
> >has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up
> and
> >seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended?
> >
> This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a
> throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control
> to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If
> there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture
> control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the
> throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well,
> just bolt it on and go with no worries.
>
It has the pump- basically just checking that the pump seal is pliable enough
not to leak?
> Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then
> there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of
> time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you back.
>
Time's not the problem- it's the spare change to the overhauler that would be
a setback- remember it's a USED engine!! 8-)
Thanks again-
Mark
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
In a message dated 11/19/2003 11:40:35 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jconnell@rconnect.com writes:
Gentlemen (and ladies too),
I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until
the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM
IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4
postings.
Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio?
Thanks,
Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage)
Joe:
I have the ICOM ... have had no problems ... receive and transmit clearly.
Wish it had standby freqency monitor though !!!
Len Leggette, RV-8A
Greensboro, NC N910LL
166 hrs
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: FL tax question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
Hi Pat,
Thanks for the info. FWIW, I'll be in Marion County. That makes sense
to me (though I'd be pissed if I'd paid within the last six months). So,
if sales tax isn't applicable, does Florida assess any sort of
luxury/use tax for the 'privilege' of owning and operating an airplane
in the state?
Here's a twist: what if I'm coming from a state, like, say MA, who
abolished sales & use taxes on aircraft just in time for me to avoid it
entirely. Will I have to show proof of having paid somewhere to be
exempt in FL?
Hope to see you down there in sunny FL early next year. I should be at
the RV flyin at Lakeland in January.
Regards,
Ken
Do Not Archive
Pat Hatch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
>Ken,
>
>Depending on the county you are in, sales tax ranges from 6.5% and higher
>(7% here in Indian River County). There is no personal property tax here
>like there is in some states, like North Carolina for example. If you are
>moving to Florida and have already paid the sales tax on your car or
>airplane in another state, you do not owe Florida sales tax--unless it has
>been less than 6 months since you paid the sales tax. Sounds to me like you
>will not owe any sales tax at all...disclaimer: I am not a tax attorney and
>what I am telling you is my personal experience only!
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>Pat Hatch
>RV-4
>RV-6
>RV-7 QB (Building)
>Vero Beach, FL
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1@comcast.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: FL tax question
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
>>
>>Hey Guys,
>>
>>Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What
>>am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and
>>they get wind of my RV?
>>
>>Regards,
>>Ken Balch
>>RV-8 N118KB
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 56
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Lyle,
There's a bunch of us advanced RV souls who take advantage of the great
hospitality of the wonderful folks down at Vintage. We are so awesome they
even included our picture in the September issue of Sport Aviation, unlike
the druts up in Homebuilt country.
Get there early (24th or 25th) and we'll get you up into the coveted
westside parking where the only flames are the ones coming out of Sally's
Alley and Denver's Titillating Tea Parties.
Who knows, someday Randy might even let you park in Row 69W.
W
do not archive
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Of course my RV9A is not flying yet, so take my advice with a grain of
salt... :-)
I had the same concern you seem to have when I started. So I called
Van's and they said that if you cannot cut yourself on the part you have
deburred it enough. The only real problem that deburring must do is to
eliminate stress risers that might cause fractures in the future. When
the aluminum is cut there are small "bumps" where one set of
cutters/shears end and another starts. These could be a problem over
the long term. Therefore, they must be removed. Anything beyond that
is gravy. If you continue doing what you are doing your plane may last
longer than mine. On the other hand, they will both last longer than
either one of us will care about!
After I got into the groove of deburring, it didn't take all that long.
What I ended up doing was to use a file or the 6" scotchbrite wheel to
remove the tooling marks from the edges. Then I found that I could
remove the sharp corners from the edges better with the standard
deburring tool. I found that the dual (V-groove) tool tended to leave a
burr unless I went over it several times. The standard deburring tool
worked with one pass. Most nooks and crannies can be reached with the
standard deburring tool.
As far as fluting goes... The amount of bend depends on the curve of
the part. You are going to have some parts bowed a whole lot more than
the 3/32 you have seen so far as you move along to the wings and
fuselage! Once you get the hang of it you will be able to flute a part
in short order and will be able to judge how much to flute without
constantly checking. When I reached that state, I would just flute the
part completely and then do a quick check by laying it flat on my bench
or other flat surface. I was usually able to get it within 1/16 on the
first pass and then tweak one or two flutes to get it perfect. The
bottom line is that it doesn't take long and when you get the hang of it
you will be able to get it virtually perfect with little effort.
I always did the flanges after the fluting and just bent them by hand in
most cases. I checked them by using a square held against the flat side
of the part and checking the squareness of the flange. Again, I have
been able to get them square quite easily and quickly.
I think that as you gain experience you will get faster and more able to
do what you have to do by eye with just a final check with the square or
the tabletop.
Dick Tasker, RV9A, 90573
Fuselage
Phil N wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
>
>
>I've been plugging along making a stack of deburred HS ribs this week.
>It takes me something like 20-30 minutes of deburring per piece to get
>what I consider a satisfactory part based on Van's instructions.
>Tedious is the word for this, but I thought it was what must be done. I
>was reading a RV8 website last night (can't remember which one) and the
>guy stated "it took two hours to deburr and square the flanges of the
>ribs for the HS". Sheesh, I have twice that already and am not even
>done deburring let alone squaring!
>
>Is 20-30 minutes per rib for deburring excessive (perfectionism)? (File,
>v-groove deburring tool, Scotchbrite wheel on exposed edges, hand sand
>nooks and crannies with 400 emery cloth)
>
>What about squaring the flange, do I just hand bend the edges to the
>point they look pretty close or do I need to get out my square and
>seamer and make sure they're perfect?
>
>Yup, there sure are references to squared flanges in the archives. But
>"straighten them or you'll see them" doesn't tell me if eyeballing is
>sufficient or if I need to get the square out. (OK, I need a little
>reassurance here..... I'll take my "insecure perfectionist" issues up
>with a shrink as soon as I am done building and have the spare time :-)
>
>While I'm at it, I'll ask about fluting to straighten the ribs. My ribs
>range from no bow to the worst being bowed 3/32 (HS806?) I figured to
>get the 3/32 ones down to the 1/16th range but leave the rest alone. Is
>1/16th inch bow good, or should I spend another 5 minutes per part
>trying to get them closer than that? (and run the risk of ruining
>one....) It is my assumption that, as wide as the rib is, if I get it
>within 1/16th and properly positioned in relation to the PP holes, I
>will be good to go.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Phil
>
>
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Try about 200 miles NNW of Spokane, Wash.
Others can decide if that is within the civilized world or not! :-)
Jim Oke
Wpg, MB (usually described as 60 miles N of North Dakota)
RV_6A
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "rob ray" <smokyray@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray <smokyray@yahoo.com>
>
> BTW, where in the civilized world is Kelowna?
>
> RR
> In Texas...
Message 59
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| Subject: | Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Echo Len's sentiments on the A200. After 3 years or so, the rubber sleeves on
the tuning and volume knobs dry-rotted and fell off, but I can still turn them
fine with my fingers on the bare metal. I've been too lazy to contact ICOM for
replacement part$.
-Bill B
Message 60
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| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
Netscape/7.1 (ax)
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power
supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you
electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane???
Gary Zilik
Message 61
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
That's what I was gonna say but Ive just been so busy, well. I just
didn't have time:)
Holy cow.
Thanks W.
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
Subject: RV-List: Timing light
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
John,
let me add a little too much to Cy's response.
First, roughly said, timing is set to cause the maximum average of
pressure
created to exchange the most amount of rotary force into the crankshaft.
The
rate of fuel burn (180-220ft per sec) doesn't vary much within normal
oprating air/fuel ratios. So if the piston is coming up faster then one
has
to spark it earlier to achieve the above stated pressure cycle at the
right
time. This pressure timing point is known as Powell's magic angle (15
deg
ATDC) and is true for all reciprocating engines. The other factors that
effect the spark timing point is the rate that the induction and exhaust
can
ventilate the cylinder, and what RPM range the engine is designed to
deliver
its torque. In any event RPM is the big factor in spark timing.
Because aircraft engines are coupled to their drive environment
hydraulically (ie a prop in air) rather than in a fixed fashion like a
tire
on the road, and the fact that this prop has a fairly tight range of
torque
conversion to thrust (ie AOA of the wing shape only delivers load to the
engine, or thrust from the engine in a fairly narrow range of RPM, where
a
car has to deliver high torque from just above idle to max RPM) they
only
really need to be timed for a narrow range of RPM. Its easier and more
reliable to fix the timing for one RPM value, below that RPM they are
over
advanced, and above that RPM they are under advanced in timing.
So lets say one sets the mags to be most efficent at 75% power which for
a
fixed pitch which might be 2400 RPM. (This may vary slightly with
constant
speed engines, but the usually aim for a similar timing RPM, and that
said,
a constant speed engine is one place that an advanced electronic
ignition
can really add to fuel efficiency) If the engine goes above this the
timing
is retarded for that RPM, which is good because it reduces detonation
some.
If it goes below then it is too far advanced, but who cares because at
power
settings below 75% a little advance will add power without causing
detonation. In any event the total RPM range from 50% to 100% power
might be
600 rpm rather than the 4000 rpm range you would find in a ground
engine.
The only time there is a problem is when starting, as the timing is way
too
advanced for 150-300 RPM. In this case they use devices to retard only
during starting such as an impulse coupler or shower of sparks.
Therefore having the time change in an aircraft engine doesn't do much.
And
having it right on to the 10th of a deg is meaningless becasue you are
just
saying it most effecient at 2400 rpm rather than 2410. Who cares. It is
far
more important to get both mags equal then it is to get them on the
right
deg. And most specs allow for a fairly wide range of error, say .5 to
1.5
degs.
Given that the radius of the ring gear is roughly 10 inches, the
circumference is 62.8", therefore each degree is roughly 3/16" of travel
at
the ring gear. With static timing methods that's a lot of sensitivity,
there
is no need to have a fancy dynamic device for setting this. The real
advantage of dynamic timing is it allows one to also test the advancing
features of the automotive distributor, but I can assure you that I can
get
an automotive distributor as accurately timed satically as I can
dynamically. I've done it many times when its a bitch to get the timing
gun
aimed on the pully.
This is probably far more than you ever wanted to know though.
W
Time: 01:31:04 PM PST US
From: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Subject: RV-List: Safety Concerns
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I have always timed my Lycoming with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the
timing
mark aligned with the case halves. This has worked for a long time.
I now want to get more technical and have purchased a fancy digital
timing
light that has a LCD screen with direct read out.
My concern is: How to use the light on a running engine...I have an RV6A
and
would have to be up on a step stool behind the prop in order to see
what's
going on. The notion of slipping off the stool, or otherwise getting
tangled
up in the prop has me, frankly, more than "concerned" -I can't see
standing
in from of the prop with the engine going and using the light....
What do you techies do in such a situation?
(And, yes, I have checked the archives first.)
John
=
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Message 62
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| Subject: | rv-list stupid questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
To the new builder - keep asking the questions.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
Thanks Chuck...........
Joel "Weasel" Graber
Message 63
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| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com
Try placing a 4.7V 1W Zener Diode on the positive lead to the LED and a 1/4 watt
620 Ohm Resistor on the negative lead of the LED. This should let you use a
dimmer on the LED's also.
Thank Randall Henderson for this. I used two LED's in my roll bar on the pilot
side to illuminate the 6 flight instruments. All my other gauges are lighted.
John Danielson
RV-6 175 hrs.
Message 64
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Yes, you will be using a 3/16" bit (or, for the a-retentive, a smaller
size followed by a 3/16" close-tolerance reamer). If you look ahead in
the plans, you will be using 3/16" bolts here, which is why you wait and
drill in assembly (to ensure correct alignment). For your wing spar,
you will be using close-tolerance bolts and holes; for the other
attachment points it is not as critical but the closer the better.
Generally, for bolts, you want a uniformly round hole loose enough for a
slip fit (so as not to damage the bolt's shank when inserting it) and
tight enough to prevent the joined parts from wiggling. Resist the urge
to overtighten the bolt to prevent the latter; if you tighten a bolt
enough to resist lateral forces you have almost certainly weakened the
shank. I tightened my wing rib bolts by hand before acquiring a torque
wrench and ended up replacing them all because I had overtorqued them by
a factor of about 3! Generally, a fractional drill will do an adequate
job for normal AN bolts, which are sized in 1/16" diameter increments
but good practice is to drill the next number size smaller and ream to
fit the particular bolt.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - the hard way (still skinning the fuselage)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frederick
Oldenburg
Subject: RV-List: Drill Size???
--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg
<foldenburg@earthlink.net>
When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number
(e.g. #12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the
numbered bit?
For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that
call for an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I
undertand how this works, the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger
then the rivet diameter (4/16 or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket
science here.
However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in
assembly with fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not
drill this now, but wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this
happens....am I supposed to use a 3/16 bit?
Are these assumptions correct?
Thanks,
Fred
Fred Oldenburg
RV-7A - Empennage
http://www.rv.oldsack.com
=
==
==
==
==
Message 65
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| Subject: | Re: FL tax question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" <thecomptons@bellsouth.net>
> FL has sales tax (6%, but some counties have an extra penny)
It's not simply "an extra penny" tax, it's an additional 1% tax levied on
every 100% dollar that you spend. Of course, politicians love calling it a
"penny" tax....sounds so innocent and "affordable." Got lots of pennies
lying around, right?
Just keep in mind that you only have 100 politician "pennies". And when all
the little harmless "penny" taxes reach 100 (federal income tax pennies, gas
tax pennies, state income tax pennies, etc.), your piggy bank is empty.
Randy Compton
RV-3 N84VF
Gulf Breeze, FL
Do Not Archive
Message 66
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| Subject: | New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
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DQoJDQoJDQoNCg==
Message 67
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| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Your problem is that you need to add a resistor in series with the LED.
Essentially the LED alone created a short circuit on the power supply until
it burned out.
Using ohms law of V = IR, re-arranging to resolve resistance R = V/I. So,
voltage will be 12 - assuming a standard battery, current is the current
rating of the LED - assuming 20ma, the resistance would be .... hmm ... well
just read this web site page and it explains it MUCH better than me!
http://www.theledlight.com/LED101.html
Ron
Message 68
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--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
Thanks,
Dick Dial
Message 69
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| Subject: | marvel carb fuel line attach question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
I am attaching the fuel line to the marvel carb on my 0-320. I need the fitting
that screws into the carb for attaching the fuel line.
Is that a special fitting or just a 1/8NPT or a flare fitting where it screws into
the carb?
Thanks,
Jerry Calvert
Edmond Ok RV6
N296JC res
Message 70
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| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: <John.Morrissey@csiro.au>
Hi Gary,
All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds
require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor
for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance
in ohms)
Have a look at
http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/K-12/Sample_Projects/Ohms_Law/ohmslaw.html
Why 720 ohms? That's a standard resistor size and allows a little leeway
for voltage spikes
Experiment!!
Cheers
John Morrissey
-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Zilik [mailto:zilik@direcpc.com]
Subject: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power
supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you
electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane???
Gary Zilik
=
==
==
==
==
Message 71
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| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
fL34M34r3-K9348hJNDU
JSDMNF
I couldn't agree more !
Message 72
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
John, Gary, Scott & Don......Thanks for all the input both on and off the
list concerning Plenum VS. Plans Approach. Your time and input is much
appreciated.
DO
NOT ARCHIVE Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
>
> List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an
0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed
Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback?
> 1) Would you do it again?
> 2) Notice better cooling?
> 3) Increased speed?
> Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but
very little info in the archives.
>
Tom in Ohio
>
Cowling and paint
>
>
Message 73
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|
| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Go to radio shack, buy the $1.99 panel mount LED's (Green, Red, Amber) that
take a 1/4" hole.
Get the ones that already have the resistor in line which will handle 12
volts directly.
I have one of these on my fuel pump toggle, so I have a small reminder and
don't forget it's on!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
http://www.steinair.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Zilik
Subject: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power
supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you
electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane???
Gary Zilik
Message 74
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|
| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gert <gert@execpc.com>
Bill
In the end it depends on the voltage drop for your LED and the current
through the LED. Not all LED are created equal so you will need those
parameters, Radio Shack tends to print this info right on the back of
the package.
So, if a LED runs on 1.7 volts at 20 millAmp the resistor would be:
(bus voltage - LED voltage ) divided by LED current, rounded to the
nearest commercial resistor value.
Aerolectrics website has a very good primer on LED's and how to
calculate these values. of course you could gang several LED's in series
to get close to the bus volatge in your airplane.
try http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/leds3.pdf
Gert
Gary Zilik wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>
> Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
>
> I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
> as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
> led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
> were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
> 12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power
> supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you
> electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane???
>
> Gary Zilik
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 75
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| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Alabama |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
Alan,
If you want to see something impressive, cruise up to Troy, Alabama (KTOI)
and drop in on the Wiley Sanders (of Wiley Sanders Truck Lines fame)
hangers. It's less than 30 miles north of where you will be and is one of
the most impressive personal collections of aircraft you will see. Fellow
lister Craig Hiers and myself went there last Saturday to see what was new.
This guy has the following:
Two B-25's and one each of the following: P-51, T-28, L-19 Bird Dog, DC-3,
AD-1 Skyraider, Beech 18, T-6, Stearman Biplane, Gulfstream II, Cessna
Citation, S2 tracker, and the second T-2 Buckeye jet trainer in civilian
hands. The T-2 was fresh out of rebuild and was absolutely beautiful in
gleaming white with orange trim.
There was also a Harmon Rocket and another Gulfstream II in the hangers that
belonged to one of Sanders partners. I probably left something off the list.
We were made welcome and were allowed free access to all the aircraft.
It humbles me to see how the poor folks live........
Jerry Isler
RV4 N455J
Donalsonville, GA
> --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
>
> I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over
Thanksgiving. I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week
depending on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the
enterprise airport, or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to
call the FBO but plan to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight
while I'm in LA (lower Alabama)
>
> Thanks
> Alan Kritzman
> RV-8
Message 76
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| Subject: | RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders:
1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the
E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my
tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'.
2. The instructions on DWG 5 for assembling the elevator horn weldments
to the hor. stab. bearing say that you should use no more than 3
AN960-416's on each side of the bearing. All the parts of my tail assy
have fit with the prepunched holes lining up properly, but I need at
least 4 AN960-416's & an AN960-416L on one side & at least an additional
AN960-416L on the other side to avoid stressing the other hinge
brackets. Did anyone else go with the obvious solution of more washers &
a longer bolt?
Tip for those like me without a convenient lathe to make the bearing
drill bushing (for drilling the horn weldments): I found a nylon
standoff at the hardware store that was 1/4" outside & #4 screw size
inside. I used whatever size drill from my drill index that was a snug
fit in the standoff.
Thanks,
Charlie
(hoping my wing skins haven't turned to powder sitting in the boxes over
the last 5 months)
Message 77
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| Subject: | Re: Oil for engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
The "aged" oil doesn't bother me since it hasn't been contaminated by
combustion. The Carb on the other hand should be checked for the proper
float. There are 4 versions of the float. The old ADed metal, the first
plastic float which will sink after being in fuel a while, an improved metal
float and finally a second generation plastic. There should be some markings
on the carb if indicating the float inside. Also the 2 piece venturi needs
to be checked for looseness. If it isn't loose don't what every you do
change to the one piece venturi. If it is loose you have to make the change
which isn't always the best. You also should check with a mirror to see if
the venturi has heat damage or is melted from a back fire.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil for engine start
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>
> Thanks for the reply- Notes "imbedded" below....
>
> > Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is
> > cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance.
> >
> Agreed- just curious if the oil could actually "age" lying dormant in the
> engine four years- has had dessicant plugs in entire time and cover plates
bolted
> to exhaust & carb openings- breather & all oil ports plugged... I mean,
if
> there is nothing "wrong" with the oil, why toss it out?
>
> > > It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated
> > regularly since
> > >purchased.
> > >
> > This was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the
> > sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any
> > good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of
> > oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the
> > rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact.
> > The oil will not stay there.
> >
> Clarification- Until bolting to the mount, it was on an engine stand and
> rotated, or flipped over to submerge the cam & coat the cylinders every
couple of
> months. I also spun it with the starter (plugs out) about once a year
until a
> gauge connected to it showed pressure, about 30-35 psi IIRC.
>
> > >Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the
> > engine
> > >has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it
up
> > and
> > >seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended?
> > >
> > This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a
> > throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control
> > to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If
> > there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture
> > control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the
> > throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well,
> > just bolt it on and go with no worries.
> >
>
> It has the pump- basically just checking that the pump seal is pliable
enough
> not to leak?
>
> > Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then
> > there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of
> > time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you
back.
> >
> Time's not the problem- it's the spare change to the overhauler that would
be
> a setback- remember it's a USED engine!! 8-)
>
> Thanks again-
> Mark
>
>
Message 78
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
At least on the Cessna and my 48 Bellanca, the loop has a dump so there is
always cooling air going thru the muff. When you nee heat, the air stream
is diverted into the cabin. The air stream itself is never shut off, just
rerouted. Even the carb heat is done this way in many airplanes.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Aeroncas every day
Quarterly newsletters on time
Reasonable document reprints
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Muff
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> smoothweasel@juno.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
> >
> >
> >Good Day to everyone!!! Today a follow RV builder was here to look at
> >my project and was concerned that I did NOT have provisions to vent my
> >heat muff when the heater is not in use. He seemed to think the exhaust
> >needed some kind of cooling. Is there anyone out there flying that
> >does not have these provisions? Thanx
> >
> >Joel "Weasel" Graber
> >RV-4 trying to finish
> >Brooksville MS
> >
> Take a look at a certified aircraft if you get the chance. My
> experience says the cabin/windshield heat is a closed system with a
> control to open the valve to the cockpit. No other vent if the heat is
> not in use.
> Linn
>
>
Message 79
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| Subject: | Re: FL tax question |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Ken Balch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
>
>linn walters wrote:
>
>
>
>>FL has sales tax (6%, but some counties have an extra penny) and an
>>airplane use/luxury .... something like that that you pay good money for a lousy
sticker. That 'sticker' tax is poorly enforced and almost totally ignored.
HOWEVER, if you're a FL resident, when you register ANY airplane, the state
will come after you for sales tax, including penalties. Some folks play the
tax game by buying an airplane and putting something less than full price on the
FAA paperwork, and buying a headset (that's in the plane already) for the other
half. 2 bills of sale. The same game can be played any of a number of ways.
Just besure you have a bill of sale reflecting the 'registered' price.
When the airplane is a kit, with multiple invoices, you can probably get away
with using something less than all the invoices, if you get my drift. All you
have to do is be able to justify the value if it comes to an audit.
>>Linn
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Hi Linn,
>
>Thanks for the info. One question: In the case of a completed kitplane
>(whose components were purchased while living in another state), why
>would I owe FL any sales tax at all? I wasn't a Florida resident when
>any portion of my RV was bought or assembled. All I'm doing is
>transferring an existing registration (with all applicable sales taxes
>paid) to a new address. I'm not going to pay sales tax twice on the
>same items...!!!
>
>Ken
>
True. I didn't know that the tax is already paid, or that the kit was
completed. If it's already registered then FL won't even know about
it. Actually, I don't really know if the registration of the airplane
needs to be changed if you move. I know that your address of record
needs to be changed with the FAA and you can do that online, I believe.
Someone more knowledgeable will have to chime in.
Linn
do not archive
Message 80
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| Subject: | Re: Oil for engine start |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>Thanks for the reply- Notes "imbedded" below....
>
>
>>Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is
>>cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance.
>>
>greed- just curious if the oil could actually "age" lying dormant in the
>engine four years- has had dessicant plugs in entire time and cover plates bolted
>to exhaust & carb openings- breather & all oil ports plugged... I mean, if
>there is nothing "wrong" with the oil, why toss it out?
>
Hmmm. I see your point. Just as a WAG, since the engine has been
sealed so good, I doubt if there's been any change in viscosity or
chemistry. The problem is that you don't really know. Cans of oil
don't seem to have a shelf life, so why not an engine 'can'?
It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated
>>regularly since
>>
>>
>>>purchased.
>>>
>>his was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the
>>sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any
>>good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of
>>oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the
>>rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact.
>>The oil will not stay there.
>>
>>
>>
>Clarification- Until bolting to the mount, it was on an engine stand and
>rotated, or flipped over to submerge the cam & coat the cylinders every couple
of
>months. I also spun it with the starter (plugs out) about once a year until a
>gauge connected to it showed pressure, about 30-35 psi IIRC.
>
You did good. I doubt that you'll have any problems with the engine
since you cared for it this way. The clarification helps!!!
>>>Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the
>>>
>>>
>>engine
>>
>>
>>>has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up
>>>
>>>
>>and
>>
>>
>>>seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a
>>throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control
>>to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If
>>there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture
>>control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the
>>throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well,
>>just bolt it on and go with no worries.
>>
>It has the pump- basically just checking that the pump seal is pliable enough
>not to leak?
>
Yes.
>>Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then
>>there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of
>>time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you back.
>>
>>
>Time's not the problem- it's the spare change to the overhauler that would be
>a setback- remember it's a USED engine!! 8-)
>
Hey, I can relate to that!!! Bucks is bucks.
Best of luck.
Linn
do not archive
>
>Thanks again-
>Mark
>
>
>
Message 81
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| Subject: | Re: marvel carb fuel line attach question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Eaves" <doneaves@midsouth.rr.com>
Jerry go to this link:
http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana/fwfhoses.gif
Looks like an AN822-6D
Don
Don Eaves
doneaves@midsouth.rr.com
RV 6 Flying 200 + Hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: marvel carb fuel line attach question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
>
> I am attaching the fuel line to the marvel carb on my 0-320. I need the
fitting that screws into the carb for attaching the fuel line.
>
> Is that a special fitting or just a 1/8NPT or a flare fitting where it
screws into the carb?
>
> Thanks,
> Jerry Calvert
> Edmond Ok RV6
> N296JC res
>
>
Message 82
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| Subject: | Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 05:01 PM 11/19/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
>
>Echo Len's sentiments on the A200. After 3 years or so, the rubber
>sleeves on the tuning and volume knobs dry-rotted and fell off, but I can
>still turn them fine with my fingers on the bare metal. I've been too
>lazy to contact ICOM for replacement part$.
Me too. I still have one of the rubber sleeves but guess I need to ask for
two. Heat also warped the top of the plastic faceplate. It is, however, a
nice low cost radio.
hal kempthorne
Message 83
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| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 12:12 PM 11/20/2003 +1100, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <John.Morrissey@csiro.au>
>
>All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds
>require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor
>for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance
>in ohms)
For sure all you need is a resistor, mine has been working for over 150
hours now.
What we need to limit is the voltage across the LED I think. More than
about 5V blow them away. Since the LED draws about 20ma as you say, and
this value is at 5V then the resistance of the LED is:
E=IR 5 = 0.020 * R therefore R = 5 / 0.020 or 250 ohms
the completed circuit, in order to drop to 5V should be
E=IR 12 = 0.020 * (250 + R) therefore R = 350 --- I think I
used a 470 ohms but maybe I guessed! Maybe the resistor is in parallel.
This email is about as useless as some of the dull witted humor we see on
the rvlist. Maybe we need electric bob?
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 84
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| Subject: | Re: tip-up rear window fit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
This was extremely frustrating. I thought everything would be very nice
after the "Big Cut." Man was I wrong.
I squared up the canopy part to my line on the roll bar by cutting,
sanding. When satisfied with that I did the same to the rear window portion.
Finally, when it was all close I taped everything down and ran the cutting
disc between the two pieces for an exact spacing. Worked great but go slow.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: tip-up rear window fit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
>
> I have the rear window on my RV-6A tip-up close to its final size, but not
yet drilled to the F-674 skin or the roll bar. When I clamp it in place I
notice that it lays flat along the top of the roll bar, but along the sides
of the roll bar, there is about 1/16" gap between the forward edge of the
plexi and the surface of the roll bar. There the plexi contacts the roll bar
only at its aft edge.
>
> When you think of the geometry of the situation, it seems to me that this
is inescapable. The roll bar is built square, that is, the part that the
plexi lays on is perpendicular to the bar's forward and aft faces. But the
plexi tapers towards the back the same way the fuselage does. Since the roll
bar is slanted back, its top edge is tilted at an angle that matches the
angle of the plexi, but the tilt does almost nothing to change the angle
that the sides make to the plexi.
>
> I never noticed noticed this gap on other planes before, but it seems like
it's designed in. I guess one solution would be to cut the forward edge of
the window back further. Right now it is trimmed to put its forward edge
3/8" back from the forward face of the roll bar - as the plan require.
>
> Have other people seen the same effect? How have you dealt with it?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A
>
>
Message 85
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--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
Thanks,
Dick Dial
Hi Dick
Yes I like the eyeball lights, used three. Two on left side for flight
instruments, one on right side with Vans internally lighted engine
instruments. Left and right sides have separate rheostats.
I located lights on forward side at base of roll bar on inside of the
reinforcement plate.
Made up a matching light mount plate and drilled/threaded flange of
reinforcement (front angle) for tiny screws to hold light mounting plate.
With two lights close to flight instruments you can aim each at different
sections of panel and get good panel coverage, have no other RV to compare
it to but I would think that if the lights were further aft or mounted lower
they would light up too much area and cause distracting reflections. My
instrument panel is black semi gloss and reflections are very minimal. IMHO
it looks good and panel lighting is equivalent to or better than many
certified aircraft.
Would I do it that way again? The right side light has packed it in
(wiring?) and will be repaired/replaced this weekend during annual
inspection, so next time I will put two lights on right side for
redundancy - same location.
6A slider - 220 hrs, about 6 at night - down for annual.
George McNutt
Langley B.C
Message 86
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OhioValleyRVators@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | AeroElectric Connection Seminar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Anyone wanting to attend a AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar near
Nashville,TN please goto:
http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/Nashville.html and register. The
date has not been set yet. I'm guessing because not enough people have
signed up.
If your getting close to wiring your plane and have not heard of the
AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar then go here and read all about
it: http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/seminars.html
I have nothing to do with this seminar, I'm just wanting a date to be
set so I can attend!
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 87
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|
| Subject: | New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Over the years I have followed the posts regarding the problems some have had with
removing the clear plastic protection from the skins in the kits. The recent
posts regarding corrosion problems between the plastic and the metal is the
first I had heard about it.
I will pass along my experience in this area. I received my fuselage kit for the
6A in January/97 and during the building process removed the plastic on the
rivet lines only. Being aware of the possibility of the plastic setting up with
time I would occasionally check to see if it was getting hard to remove. There
was no evidence of this so left it on until it was ready to paint (Sept/03),
it came off with no trouble, no tearing or excessive pulling required. The only
thing I noticed was that if it was pulled back parallel to the skin there
was a tendency for it to leave a trace of the adhesive on the skins. By pulling
it 90 degrees to the metal it came of clean.
Corrosion between the plastic and the skin was not thought of at this time. There
wasn't a trace of corrosion, all the skins looked the same as the day they
came from Van's. The fuselage kit was stored and build in my shop which is heated
when required and we are in a area of low humidity. The plastic was removed
with the shop temperature at 24C (75F).
Van's says the new blue vinyl strengthens with time and should be removed if parts
are to be stored for longer than a few weeks.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C
Message 88
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| Subject: | First flight decisons |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
In addition to all that has been said on this subject one of the most important
items is the engine.
If one is starting with a new or overhauled engine it is critical that ground running
be kept to an absolute minimum. For me this would be a start-up and checking
for any snags, clearing the snags if any then out to the runway and gone.
The reason for this is the engine needs to be run at power settings high enough
to seat the rings like 75% in cruise until the oil consumption stabilizes.
Taxiing and running up and down the runway will glaze the cylinders and you will
have a oil burner with the only cure being to pull the cylinders and deglaze
and new rings.
This mean that the first flight should be done by someone that is current on the
RV and needs no practicing on the ground.
Not trying to discourage anyone from doing the first flight but you have to be
honest with yourself and ask if your prepared to go under these conditions.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
Message 89
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Well, I have a 9A but I had the same situation. I had to get a longer
bolt. If I remember correctly when I asked Van's about it they said
extra washers were okay if necessary.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage
Charlie & Tupper England wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
>
>Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders:
>
>1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the
>E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my
>tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'.
>
>2. The instructions on DWG 5 for assembling the elevator horn weldments
>to the hor. stab. bearing say that you should use no more than 3
>AN960-416's on each side of the bearing. All the parts of my tail assy
>have fit with the prepunched holes lining up properly, but I need at
>least 4 AN960-416's & an AN960-416L on one side & at least an additional
>AN960-416L on the other side to avoid stressing the other hinge
>brackets. Did anyone else go with the obvious solution of more washers &
>a longer bolt?
>
>Tip for those like me without a convenient lathe to make the bearing
>drill bushing (for drilling the horn weldments): I found a nylon
>standoff at the hardware store that was 1/4" outside & #4 screw size
>inside. I used whatever size drill from my drill index that was a snug
>fit in the standoff.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Charlie
>(hoping my wing skins haven't turned to powder sitting in the boxes over
>the last 5 months)
>
>
>
>
Message 90
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| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Actually the previous answer was more correct. Depending in the LED
they run with a voltage of 1.6V (red) to more than 3V (green, white)
across it. Most garden variety LEDs like working with 20mA of current.
So, if we start with 14V (with the engine running) and are using a red
LED, that gives us 12.4V to drop across a resistor so the LED doesn't
burn up. 12.4V / 0.02 A = 620 ohms (which is conveniently a standard
value). If you don't want the resistor to burn up you better get one
with a 1/2 W power capability since the power across the resistor is
12.4V * 0.02A = 0.248W. If you use a standard 1/4 W resistor, it will
be running quite hot. If the LED is used as a warning light (off most
of the time) then the 1/4W resistor is probably okay. If the LED is on
most or a significant amount of the time, then the 1/2 W is necessary.
If you have any additional puzzlement, just email me.
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage
kempthornes wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
>
>At 12:12 PM 11/20/2003 +1100, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: <John.Morrissey@csiro.au>
>>
>>All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds
>>require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor
>>for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance
>>in ohms)
>>
>>
>
>For sure all you need is a resistor, mine has been working for over 150
>hours now.
>
>What we need to limit is the voltage across the LED I think. More than
>about 5V blow them away. Since the LED draws about 20ma as you say, and
>this value is at 5V then the resistance of the LED is:
>
>E=IR 5 = 0.020 * R therefore R = 5 / 0.020 or 250 ohms
>
>the completed circuit, in order to drop to 5V should be
>
>E=IR 12 = 0.020 * (250 + R) therefore R = 350 --- I think I
>used a 470 ohms but maybe I guessed! Maybe the resistor is in parallel.
>
>This email is about as useless as some of the dull witted humor we see on
>the rvlist. Maybe we need electric bob?
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
>
>
Message 91
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| Subject: | Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Does this mean that you have given up on the SL40?
If so, why? It appears that they plan to keep it around for a while and it
is a great radio. UPSAT/GARMIN-AT have made clear that the GX series is
toast but as far as I can tell the SL40/30 is in good graces. Of course, I
MAY BE WRONG.
I do not have direct experience with the ICOM. Looked at it but concluded
that the SL40 was better ... this was some time ago.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe & Jan
> Connell
> Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:37 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
>
> Gentlemen (and ladies too),
>
> I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until
> the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM
> IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4
> postings.
>
> Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage)
>
>
Message 92
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| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
Kevin-
Your time frame is similar to mine (storing and building). What is your
serial number (builder number)?
Also, when did you order and receive your wing kit? My tail and wing kit
were over a year apart. The tail is done but I've yet to pull any plastic
from the wing parts other than the rear spars. There have been a few parts
where there were some spots under the plastic.
Mike McGee
90221
At 12:02 2003-11-18, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent <kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
>
>Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
>complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
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