---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 11/19/03: 92 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:08 AM - Re: Wright brothers (Richard V. Reynolds) 2. 02:23 AM - Engine Plenum (Tom & Cathy Ervin) 3. 03:12 AM - Re: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... (Jim Sears) 4. 03:56 AM - Re: RV10 Tail kit Atlanta area? (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 5. 04:04 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (Don Eaves) 6. 05:28 AM - Re: Air screw..... (Phil N) 7. 05:49 AM - response to military question (glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com) 8. 05:55 AM - Re: Traveling to Alabama (Dean) 9. 06:23 AM - Re: response to military question (Robert Miller) 10. 06:34 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (Scott Bilinski) 11. 06:34 AM - Re: Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Pat Hatch) 12. 06:43 AM - IFR schools? (Dan DeNeal) 13. 07:01 AM - Re: response to military question (linn walters) 14. 07:06 AM - Food for thought... (JOHN STARN) 15. 07:11 AM - Re: Engine Plenum () 16. 07:14 AM - Re: IFR schools? () 17. 07:20 AM - Re: First flight decisions (Greg Young) 18. 07:49 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (Gary Zilik) 19. 08:05 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (rob ray) 20. 08:06 AM - Re: Remote control winch? (Hal Rozema) 21. 08:12 AM - Re: First flight decisions (C. Rabaut) 22. 08:21 AM - Re: response to military question (rob ray) 23. 08:24 AM - Re: Wright brothers (rob ray) 24. 08:28 AM - Re: IFR schools? (Doug Rozendaal) 25. 08:30 AM - Re: IFR schools? (Doug Rozendaal) 26. 08:37 AM - Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (Joe & Jan Connell) 27. 08:44 AM - Re: Glenn's post/Food fight, etc (certainly non RV) (Ken Brooks) 28. 08:52 AM - Oil for engine start (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 29. 09:09 AM - Re: Engine Plenum (LeastDrag93066@aol.com) 30. 09:15 AM - Drill Size??? (Frederick Oldenburg) 31. 09:23 AM - Re: IFR schools? (rv6tc) 32. 09:48 AM - Re: response to military question (RV_8 Pilot) 33. 10:11 AM - Re: IFR schools? (Laird Owens) 34. 10:27 AM - FL tax question (Ken Balch) 35. 10:29 AM - Re: Drill Size??? (Dana Overall) 36. 11:19 AM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Kevin Behrent) 37. 11:22 AM - Re: IFR schools? (Phil N) 38. 11:32 AM - Re: response to military question (Nick N) 39. 11:33 AM - Re: Drill Size??? (Rick Galati) 40. 11:36 AM - Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive (rob ray) 41. 11:37 AM - Re: response to military question (MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)) 42. 11:40 AM - Re: Traveling to Alabama (rob ray) 43. 11:46 AM - Re: Oil for engine start (linn walters) 44. 11:50 AM - Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges (Phil N) 45. 11:59 AM - Re: FL tax question (linn walters) 46. 12:03 PM - Re: Engine Plenum (Scott Bilinski) 47. 12:08 PM - panther piss (Wheeler North) 48. 12:31 PM - Re: FL tax question (Pat Hatch) 49. 12:36 PM - Re: FL tax question (Ken Balch) 50. 12:36 PM - Denso Alternator Part # (Jim Oke) 51. 12:54 PM - Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive (Jim Jewell) 52. 12:59 PM - Timing light (Wheeler North) 53. 01:11 PM - Re: Oil for engine start (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 54. 01:18 PM - Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (Lenleg@aol.com) 55. 01:25 PM - Re: FL tax question (Ken Balch) 56. 01:27 PM - OSH Vintage (Wheeler North) 57. 01:34 PM - Re: Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges (Richard Tasker) 58. 01:41 PM - Re: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive (Jim Oke) 59. 02:01 PM - Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (SportAV8R@aol.com) 60. 03:10 PM - LED Warning Lamps (Gary Zilik) 61. 03:17 PM - Re: Timing light (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 62. 03:25 PM - rv-list stupid questions (smoothweasel@juno.com) 63. 03:59 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (JDaniel343@aol.com) 64. 04:32 PM - Re: Drill Size??? (Patrick Kelley) 65. 04:36 PM - Re: FL tax question (Randy Compton) 66. 04:42 PM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Condrey, Bob (US SSA)) 67. 05:00 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Ron Walker) 68. 05:01 PM - Cockpit Lights (J. R. Dial) 69. 05:09 PM - marvel carb fuel line attach question (Jerry Calvert) 70. 05:13 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps () 71. 05:23 PM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (John) 72. 05:24 PM - Fw: Engine Plenum (Tom & Cathy Ervin) 73. 05:26 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Stein Bruch) 74. 06:12 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Gert) 75. 06:12 PM - Re: Traveling to Alabama (Jerry Isler) 76. 06:18 PM - RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly (Charlie & Tupper England) 77. 06:23 PM - Re: Oil for engine start (Cy Galley) 78. 06:48 PM - Re: Heat Muff (Cy Galley) 79. 07:31 PM - Re: FL tax question (linn walters) 80. 07:45 PM - Re: Oil for engine start (linn walters) 81. 07:48 PM - Re: marvel carb fuel line attach question (Don Eaves) 82. 07:48 PM - Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (kempthornes) 83. 08:08 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (kempthornes) 84. 08:23 PM - Re: tip-up rear window fit (Darwin N. Barrie) 85. 08:24 PM - Re: Cockpit Lights (GMC) 86. 08:30 PM - AeroElectric Connection Seminar (Bobby Hester) 87. 08:34 PM - New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's (Eustace Bowhay) 88. 08:34 PM - First flight decisons (Eustace Bowhay) 89. 09:32 PM - Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly (Richard E. Tasker) 90. 09:40 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Richard E. Tasker) 91. 09:40 PM - Re: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver (James E. Clark) 92. 10:26 PM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Michael McGee) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:08:31 AM PST US From: "Richard V. Reynolds" Subject: Re: RV-List: Wright brothers --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" In the Norfolrk, VA area, try: SFQ Suffolk, VA PVG Hampton Roads Exec (listed under Norfolk in the A/FD) CPK Cheaapeake Regional (listed under Norfolk in the A/FD) Due to hurricane Isabel, hangar space is limited as is marina space. Richard Reynolds, Norfolk, VA, RV-6A "David.vonLinsowe" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" > > Hi guys, > > I'm looking for a RV friendly airport in the vicinity of the Wright reenactment December 17th. If the weather cooperates I would rather take the RV instead of an airliner. It takes 6 1/2 hours travel time by airliner, not counting the extra time you need to be there early, and 3 1/2 hours air time by RV from Michigan. I already have tickets, ground transportation and hotel. > > Thanks, > > Dave > RV-6 > > **************************************************************************************** > > Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. > > **************************************************************************************** > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 02:23:04 AM PST US From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an 0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback? 1) Would you do it again? 2) Notice better cooling? 3) Increased speed? Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but very little info in the archives. Tom in Ohio Cowling and paint ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:12:21 AM PST US From: Jim Sears Subject: Re: RV-List: EAA Young Eagles paranoid concern.... --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Sears > I believe you will find the EAA minimum level is $100,000 of liability the pilot > must have on himself before the EAA young Eagles policy kicks in for the Million > I believe. Just being a member of EAA and filling out the forms - flying young > eagles doesn't mean you are covered. FOrms must be filled out and signed > before YE flight, pilot must be legal, current and BFR'd and so on....As well the > local EAA chapter must have filled out the insurance coverage request from > stating YE rides are to be given at that event too ... well in advance before it is a > covered... > But, the YE pilot could take up kids at any time by just filling out the forms in advance of each flight. I took up many kids, on the fly. Sometimes a kid would show up at the field and would want a birthday flight. If I was sitting there doing nothing and taking up space, the FBO would sometimes direct them to me because it cost the parents nothing to do that, if I could take up the kid. My flights with the kid would be more personal because I'd look for the kid's home, school, places of interest to him or her. I've made some kids very happy on their birthdays. I've even taken up a whole birthday party of kids with any special events. You talk about bragging rights for the kid! How many get to treat their guests to a flight? Jim Sears in KY RV-6A N198JS EAA Tech Counselor Flight Leader #008787 do not archive ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 03:56:40 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: RV10 Tail kit Atlanta area? From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" Well Michael, I'm not working on the tail kit yet. Actually I have not started. I hope to order one soon. But If I did, order one that is, and it arrived, and I actually was putting her together, I would surely invite you over, cause I do live in Atlanta. Hope this was helpful:) Mike Oh man do not archive this sarcasm. Its early and I am trying to start on a better foot than I did yesterday. The regulars will get this, the newbess, well you will get it soon enough. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael D. Crowe Subject: RV-List: RV10 Tail kit Atlanta area? --> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D. Crowe" Does anyone in the Atlanta GA area have an RV10 tail kit I could come look at? Thank You Mike Crowe RV8A wings = == == == == ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 04:04:52 AM PST US From: "Don Eaves" Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Plenum --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Eaves" Hello Tom - I've been flying My 6 for over 200 hours: Would I do it again? YES Cooling has never been a problem - Many "Non-Plenum" RV's have reported cooling problems. Increased Speed: In the spirit of Van - I have nothing to compare it to, so I cannot say if it is faster. If you have anymore questions just email me - If you would like to call me , email me (offline) your number and I will be glad to. Don Eaves doneaves@midsouth.rr.com RV 6 Flying 200 + Hrs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > > List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an 0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback? > 1) Would you do it again? > 2) Notice better cooling? > 3) Increased speed? > Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but very little info in the archives. > Tom in Ohio > Cowling and paint > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 05:28:46 AM PST US From: "Phil N" Subject: RE: RV-List: Air screw..... --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" I was so enthralled with the idea of a 108,920 HP engine that I never got to thinking about the size of the battery, starter or prop. Maybe I can get my buddy from Hartzell to ask his engineers about the pitch/diameter/RPM restrictions. I'll bet Team Rocket will do the structural engineering analysis for us. :-) Phil Do not archive > If Hartzell makes that prop, will it have a continuous use > RPM restriction at 95 RPM through to 97.5 RPM??? > > Wonder what the pitch and diameter of the prop would be to > get airborne at > > the blinding RPM of 102. 8*) Kabong Do not archive > > If you consider how big of a battery you are going to need to spin > > the starter motor on that engine, I think you would just need to > > extend the tail a little to get the CG in line :) What I want to > > know is how many horse power is the starter motor for that engine. > > That is one stat they didn't give on that web page. > > I don't think the battery in the tail will help much with the CG > > though. The wife might complain about the fuel burn, too. > > http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/ ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:49:05 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: response to military question From: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com 11/19/2003 07:12:52 AM --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my response. I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys. and of course do not archive your friend Glenn Williams ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:55:37 AM PST US From: "Dean" Subject: Re: RV-List: Traveling to Alabama --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" Alan You might want to check out the Army Aviation Museum at Ft. Rucker which is only about 5 miles or so from Enterprise. I haven't been there since the new one opened, but understand that it is very good. Dean RV-9A Fuselage/Finish ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: Traveling to Alabama > --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com > > I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over Thanksgiving. I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week depending on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the enterprise airport, or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to call the FBO but plan to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight while I'm in LA (lower Alabama) > > Thanks > Alan Kritzman > RV-8 > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:23:27 AM PST US From: Robert Miller Subject: Re: RV-List: response to military question --> RV-List message posted by: Robert Miller Best luck, and absolute safety. Robert glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com > > Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my > response. > > I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I > work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's > and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due > to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this > time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is > doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us > ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to > be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know > when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys. > > and of course > > do not archive > > your friend > Glenn Williams > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:34:57 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Plenum --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I know 3 people who have gone the plenum route, and from what little info I have my impression is they are no better than the standard style baffling.........IF, you do a very good job on the baffling that is. My 8 and another 8 just flew for the first time this month I have standard baffles and he has the alum plenum. His head temps are 10~15 degrees hotter. I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15 degrees hotter than his but they are lower. I spent a lot of time on my baffles sealing up everything. Where the baffles seal against the cowl I did this in 3 pieces and pre curved them to fit the cowl. I spent days getting this just right, but I am sure glad I did. At 05:22 AM 11/19/03 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > >List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an >0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed >Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback? > 1) Would you do it again? > 2) Notice better cooling? > 3) Increased speed? > Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but very >little info in the archives. > > Tom in Ohio > > Cowling and >paint > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 06:34:57 AM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" One more thing to consider. The alclad only protects the surface of aluminum skins, not the edges. A good friend who is a structures specialist at a major airline once told me that in addition to priming the sheet, to be sure and take a cue tip and hit all edges of a sheet with epoxy primer. Often you have to trim or file to fit after priming--a good time to hit the edges with the cue tip. I always keep the left-over primer in a glass jar in the fridge for this purpose. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 QB (Building) Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: RV-List: RE: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? > --> RV-List message posted by: sshah@shreyans.info > > My goodness! This message sent shiver down my spine. I thought the Van's says > that the alclad is good enough to deter corrosion and it's not necessary to > primer the alclad parts. Then, how can the skins get corroded! even if there > was dampness on the skin. I primer all internal parts but the outer surfaces > are all exposed and will be till I get to the final paint. I've stored the > completed empennage parts in basement which is kind of dry environment but > still exposed to all the condensation & moisture in the air. I'll shoot myself > if when I get the fuselage done few years down the road and find that the > empennage is all corroded. Does everybody take some special measures to reduce > the humidity in the storage area? Do you coat the skins with something before > storage to avoid corrosion? Any input would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanks, > Shreyans > > > > Subject: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? > > From: Kevin Behrent (kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com) > > Date: Tue Nov 18 - 11:58 AM > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent > > > > Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a > > complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion. > > > > I've had both my emp & wing kit for a couple of years and haven't really > > worked on the kits for a variety of reasons. Recently, I have gotten the > > time and motivation to finish it. With emp done, I started on the wings > > and had them ready for debur/dimple/priming when I started to peel the > > plastic back to reveal what wasn't so apparent through the plastic. A > > corrosion nightmare! > > > > Yeah, I had the kit for a couple of years, but it was stored in a dry > > space and the emp kit sat just as long with no corrosion at all (plastic > > still on!). After soliciting opinions/suggestions from several builders > > in my chapter (EAA 326 - great chapter!!), I had the local FAA guy (also > > a chapter member) come by and render the final fatal verdict. After a > > close inspection, it appears that the plastic coating may have been > > applied when the wing skins were damp since the corrosion is not only on > > the edge, but everywhere. > > > > I called Van's today to beg for mercy and it was decided that I would > > bring back the skins for their review and hopeful exchange (does not > > appear likely). They did make a interesting comment that I suspect that > > none of you have ever heard from them and the reason I am risking > > getting flamed from our resident flamer(s). That is, why didn't I remove > > the plastic "immediately" after receiving/inventoring the kit? Well, > > that was news to me. Certainly I knew not to store in a wet/damp > > environment, but it hadn't occurred to me that a dry environment was > > just as bad. > > > > So builders beware, I guess the new Van's policy when receiving your > > kit is to inventory and IMMEDIATELY remove ALL plastic coatings from > > surfaces. While your admiring the pretty blue plastic after you've > > carefully/skillfully/patiently removed the plastic where you'll be > > riveting; leaving the remainder thinking you are protecting the surface > > from scratches, it's corroding away leaving only the scratches from the > > area that you DID peel the plastics! > > > > Do not archive. > > > > -- > > Kevin Behrent > > rv-9a - wings > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 06:43:59 AM PST US From: Dan DeNeal Subject: RV-List: IFR schools? --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are looking for is a concentrated course where you can spend a week and get your IFR rating. I remember seeing something like this but can't locate anybody that does it. Dan DeNeal RV6A - N256GD (130 hrs) __________________________________ ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:01:46 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: response to military question --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com > > >Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my >response. > > That's OK, mine is too! This is for Glenn and all the other military guys that are keeping us safe and sound. Speaking of sound, turn up those speakers!!! Makes me proud!!! Linn Watch this closely. It's so cool what the sea creatures end up doing. Please be patient as this takes about 1 minute to load...but it's worth it. Enjoy! (Be sure the sound is on.) http://www.jacquielawson.com/viewcard.asp?code=1483260750 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:06:58 AM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: RV-List: Food for thought... --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" Side thoughts....... AFTER it's built, how do you pick it up ?, that would be some forklift/engine hoist/crane. They must have to build it in place, hope the factory is close to the dock. What does the original engine test stand look like ? To test bearing resistance on the crankshaft how long does the handle of the torque wrench have to be & who do you get to pull on it ?. 8*) KABONG Do Not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Phil N" Subject: RE: RV-List: Air screw..... > I was so enthralled with the idea of a 108,920 HP engine that I never > > If Hartzell makes that prop, will it have a continuous use > > RPM restriction at 95 RPM through to 97.5 RPM??? > > > If you consider how big of a battery you are going to need to spin > > > the starter motor on that engine, I > > > http://www.bath.ac.uk/~ccsshb/12cyl/ ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:11:31 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Plenum From: --> RV-List message posted by: Lots of info in the archives (search on "plenum" yields 498 hits, several threads on good or bad, would you do it again, etc). Rob Acker (RV-6 flying) do not archive > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > ...but > very little info in the archives. ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:14:00 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR schools? From: --> RV-List message posted by: http://www.iflyifr.com/ do not archive > --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal > > Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking > to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are > looking for is a concentrated course where you can > spend a week and get your IFR rating. > > I remember seeing something like this but can't locate > anybody that does it. > > Dan DeNeal > RV6A - N256GD (130 hrs) ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:20:53 AM PST US From: "Greg Young" Subject: RE: RV-List: First flight decisions --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" > --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters > > Greg, I like your post. I also like the 'me' or 'him' > dilemma. I flew Thanks Linn. It's a dilema best sorted out ahead of time. > >if all goes well, as it normally does, it boils down to a > >bragging rights issue. > > > I agree to a point. For me it was more personal accomplishment than > anything else. And, I didn't know any other Pitts pilots! OK, bragging rights is too cavalier but it's still personal pride. It was for me too. Nothing wrong with that if it doesn't override other factors. > I looked up the NTSB report on your accident, but, of course, it says > the engine quit for unknown reasons. Do you have any theories? I My working theory is vapor lock precipitated by a rich mixture. In the next few weeks I plan to send the engine to Aerosport for teardown and rebuild. At OSH Bart said the teardown and test run should detect any problem. He also said he's seen other AFP servos that were too rich. Others saw black smoke on my startups but never mentioned it. I wish they had - never assume anything unusual you see has already been noted. > >it as a favor? Is your family better off if it's not you hurt or > >killed? > > > In today's litigous society, this is a very real problem. I would > rather leave a widow than make one. I'm sure most of us would sacrifice ourselves when faced with the hypothetical schoolyard full of kids but in this context it can be perfectly OK to let someone less risk adverse take the risk. Remember it's risk not certainty. If you really anticipate a problem, no one should fly it until resolved. > >I had full first flight insurance and am otherwise covered but not > >everyone is. > > > How much did that cost? Where did you get the coverage, abd > how did you > arrive at the coverage amount? I didn't know it existed. It's readily available for RVs, try Nationair or others. In my case I had builders insurance for several years along with the full coverage on my Citabria from AIG. About a year before I flew, I got an unsolicited rider saying I had first flight coverage on the RV. When I switched the RV to full coverage I set the amount based on replacement cost. Policies are "agreed value" so you don't want to set it lower than you're willing to sell it to the insurance company. > I think we all care. Was the medical expenses covered in the first > flight insurance, or was that a separate policy? Insurance > from work??? The bulk of the medical expense was paid by my regular health insurance. The aircraft policy had $2K for medical which just about covered my deductible and out of pocket. I own my own business so the time off was a non-issue. > IMHO, Greg made one mistake that got him caught. The > narrative said he > was returning to the airport when the engine quit. On my > initial flight > I climbed up to 3000' over my airport (the ceiling of class D at that > time) and never was very far from safe haven. As the hours > built up, I > flew farther .... but always with a lot of altitude. Even in hindsight I don't consider leaving the airport area a mistake. It was a conscious, reasoned choice. My field is tower controlled under a 2000' Class B floor and is surrounded by houses and trees. Open fields and higher floors start about 2-3 miles west of the field. That gave me unlimited forced landing sites and much more latitude (and altitude) to explore the airplane. I had a fresh O/H that needed to run WOT. Getting away made me more comfortable but others may choose differently or may still consider it a mistake. That's OK. The true bad choice was not climbing at the first indication of a mixture problem. I chose to carry extra speed but stay at pattern altitude. Altitude would have given me more options. Always climb at any hint of a problem. > Thanks for giving us something to dwell on while our 'first > flight' is > in the future!!! > Linn Walters If anyone gleans something from my experience it helps mitigate the loss. Of course not all lessons stick with us as they should as evidenced by the recently drilled #30 hole in my index finger. At least I've learned not to countersink it;-) Take care, Greg ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 07:49:53 AM PST US From: Gary Zilik Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Plenum --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik Tom & Cathy Ervin wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > >List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an 0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback? > 1) Would you do it again? > no > 2) Notice better cooling? > no > 3) Increased speed? > no Gary Zilik RV-6A ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:05:34 AM PST US From: rob ray Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Plenum --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray I helped completely mod a friends RV4 with the Sam James plenum, cowling, rings and wheelpants/fairings. ALOT of time, effort and glass work. Net gain, maybe 5 knots, maybe. Also, slightly cooler temps....would I do it....negative ghostrider, stock is just fine for me. RR racker@rmci.net wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: Lots of info in the archives (search on "plenum" yields 498 hits, several threads on good or bad, would you do it again, etc). Rob Acker (RV-6 flying) do not archive > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > ...but > very little info in the archives. --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:08 AM PST US From: Hal Rozema Subject: Re: RV-List: Remote control winch? --> RV-List message posted by: Hal Rozema Home Depot Wireless Switch... electrical department Dan DeNeal wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal > > I have a winch that was left in my hangar from the > last person that had the hangar. I thought I would > never need it to pull my RV6a into the hangar since > the RV's are easy to push or pull. > > The end or March this past year we had some snow that > blanketed the area leaving the taxiway in front of my > hangar very slippery. When I realized I couldn't push > the plane back into the hangar because of the ice, I > grabbed the cable on the winch and hooked it to the > RV. > The winch saved the day!!! > > The winch is an old winch and uses an extension wire > you have to unwind all the way to the front of the > plane. Then you have to hold down the switch while the > cable is winding up while your other hand is steering > the front wheel. > > Where can I buy something like a garage door remote > control that I could use to replace the extension > wire. I'm looking for the remote and the receiver. I > can find remotes but all the receivers seem to be > attached to the garage door mechanisam. It just needs > to start and stop. > > Dan DeNeal > RV6A N256GD > I love my plane!!! > > __________________________________ > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 08:12:08 AM PST US From: "C. Rabaut" Subject: Re: RV-List: First flight decisions --> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" Greg, Thank you VERY much for this (& all your previous posts). You may've in deed already saved someone else. BTW, I'm sure you didnot forget to deburr & prime that hole. :-} Chuck ----- Original Message ----- From: Greg Young > If anyone gleans something from my experience it helps mitigate the > loss. Of course not all lessons stick with us as they should as > evidenced by the recently drilled #30 hole in my index finger. At least > I've learned not to countersink it;-) > > Take care, > Greg ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 08:21:06 AM PST US From: rob ray Subject: Re: RV-List: response to military question --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray Glenn; Make sure all you standard stuff is in order, especially your family support. We deployed to base-X to fly combat missions back In January.With 7+ RV's in the Squadron and orders cut to be gone for a year alot of us were concerned not only whether we would be back and when, but "what about my airplane". I didn't completely "pickle" my RV4 but I did spray LPS-3 in alot of places including down the spark plug holes. I bought a set of desacent spark plug inserts as well. Turns out we were only gone a little over 100 days and the RV looked great when I got back. Also, it started on the first blade. I think the Rose ignition has alot to do with that anyway. I ended up flying over 100 hours of combat time, mostly at night in OIF.I can't say enough about the outstanding young SF troops on the ground we worked with. You will also be impressed with the support from home. We ARE the greatest nation on the earth because of people, like you. God Speed! Rob Ray RV41100 fun hours F16 2875 proud hours glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: glenn.williams@businessacft.bombardier.com Listers I know this is off subject but someone asked and here is my response. I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys. and of course do not archive your friend Glenn Williams --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 08:24:16 AM PST US From: rob ray Subject: Re: RV-List: Wright brothers --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray Manteo, NC is the nicest and closest if you don't have reservations for FF airport. Go to Airnav.com for more info and cheap gas closeby. RR "David.vonLinsowe" wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: "David.vonLinsowe" Hi guys, I'm looking for a RV friendly airport in the vicinity of the Wright reenactment December 17th. If the weather cooperates I would rather take the RV instead of an airliner. It takes 6 1/2 hours travel time by airliner, not counting the extra time you need to be there early, and 3 1/2 hours air time by RV from Michigan. I already have tickets, ground transportation and hotel. Thanks, Dave RV-6 **************************************************************************************** Note: The information contained in this message may be privileged and confidential and thus protected from disclosure. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 08:28:33 AM PST US From: "Doug Rozendaal" Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR schools? --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" Their is one in Albert Lea MN Called MN Aviation. They also have operations in other MN towns, they do a pretty good job. That is not too far from Danville. For 3 guys they might come to you. http://www.private2atp.com/details/1629.html The owner is Mike Nesbitt, he is a good guy, tell him I sent you. Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal > --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal > > Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking > to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are > looking for is a concentrated course where you can > spend a week and get your IFR rating. ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 08:30:01 AM PST US From: "Doug Rozendaal" Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR schools? --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" This is a better link to MN Aviation http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/roedder_gmbh/mike1.htm Doug Rozendaal ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:20 AM PST US From: "Joe & Jan Connell" Subject: RV-List: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" Gentlemen (and ladies too), I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4 postings. Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio? Thanks, Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage) ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 08:44:37 AM PST US From: "Ken Brooks" Subject: RV-List: Re: Glenn's post/Food fight, etc (certainly non RV) --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" Hey, JT! Irregardless and orientate are two of MY pet peeves too! (My wife says I have lots of them) Let's start a new thread. Better yet, lets start a new -list! Just kidding. The best one I've heard was during a masters degree course presentation when the speaker used the word "flustrated." Very inventive, I thought, but not one you'd expect of an "educated" person. Just goes to show that anyone can get an advanced degree if they have the time and money. Okay, okay -- not what this list is for, etc., etc. At least I'm not FLAMING anyone! Now, where did I put that last RV-ator? Do Not Archive Ken Brooks Roscoe, IL RV-8 Cussing at the Canopy ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 08:52:28 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Oil for engine start --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com Howdy list- I filled my O-320 with 8 qts. of Aeroshell 100 when purchased about 4 years ago and am curious if I can use this oil for the first time the engine has run since going into storage. The filter was on the engine when purchased and looks like it was fresh then, but I'm not sure of it's actual age. Any reason not to use this oil & filter at least just for the initial fire-up, then replace once I know the connecting rods, pistons etc are going to stay inside? It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated regularly since purchased. Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the engine has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up and seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended? Thanks! Mark -6A N51PW going to the airport REAL soon! do not archive ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 09:09:55 AM PST US From: LeastDrag93066@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Plenum --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com In a message dated 11/19/2003 6:36:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes: I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15 degrees hotter than his but they are lower. I heard one of the advertising claims for the electronic ignition was that it lowered the cylinder head temperature. Which electronic ignition manufacturer are you using? Jim Ayers ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 09:15:52 AM PST US From: Frederick Oldenburg Subject: RV-List: Drill Size??? --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number (e.g. #12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered bit? For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call for an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how this works, the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet diameter (4/16 or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here. However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in assembly with fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not drill this now, but wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this happens....am I supposed to use a 3/16 bit? Are these assumptions correct? Thanks, Fred Fred Oldenburg RV-7A - Empennage http://www.rv.oldsack.com ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 09:23:19 AM PST US From: "rv6tc" Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR schools? --> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" Dan, Oh... man, I may get flamed for this, but here goes.... I got my ATP through one of those one week course, so I'm not really one to talk. But please, do yourself a favor, and if you do get a quick IFR ticket, make sure before you fly in actual IFR, you get lots of practice with experienced pilots, both under the hood and in actual IFR. Learning the principals and rules is not at all difficult, but you really do need more practice than you can get in a week. Ask anyone that's flown a lot in the weather, there are times it can be incredibly challenging. Just my $.02. Keith Hughes RV-6, finish Denver do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan DeNeal" Subject: RV-List: IFR schools? > --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal > > Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking > to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are > looking for is a concentrated course where you can > spend a week and get your IFR rating. > > I remember seeing something like this but can't locate > anybody that does it. > > Dan DeNeal > RV6A - N256GD (130 hrs) > > __________________________________ > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 09:48:25 AM PST US From: "RV_8 Pilot" Subject: Re: RV-List: response to military question FROM_HAS_UNDERLINE_NUMS --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" Thanks, Glenn! we all owe you and your buddies so much for your willingness to do the tough job. In hindsight, I sure wish I'd served at least one tour. It's been my belief for the last 10-15 yrs that young people should graduate high school, join the military, *then* go to college or do what they want with their life. Thanks again. Bryan Jones -8 Pearland, Texas do not archive >I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I >work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's >and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due >to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this >time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is >doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us >ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to >be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know >when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys. Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment, video game reviews, and more here. http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 10:11:19 AM PST US From: Laird Owens Subject: Re: RV-List: IFR schools? --> RV-List message posted by: Laird Owens I've got to wonder about these one week courses. I just got my ticket 6 months ago, and it took several months of flying 2-3 times a week plus ground school studying. I think I had close to sixty hours of 172 time by the time I took my practical, and I didn't feel ready even then. Maybe I'm a slow learner (mom has said several times that I "MUST" have been dropped on my head at birth...) but I don't see how one could absorb that much info in that amount of time. Now if you have the ground school done, and 20 or so hours of previous hood time, I MIGHT be able to believe it could be done. Now I'm not trying to bust on the schools that do these intense week classes (I used PIC's text as a basis for real world IFR flying and thought it was a very good text) but it just makes me wonder..... Laird RV-6 SoCal (Flew solo in the clouds for the first time last week....freaky!) > >> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan DeNeal >> >> Their are 3 guys at our airport (DNV) that is looking >> to upgrade our tickets for VFR to IFR. What we are >> looking for is a concentrated course where you can > > spend a week and get your IFR rating. ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 10:27:13 AM PST US From: Ken Balch Subject: RV-List: FL tax question --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch Hey Guys, Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and they get wind of my RV? Regards, Ken Balch RV-8 N118KB ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:58 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: Drill Size??? --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" Fred, yep and yep. Don't drill those four holes yet as they are the attachment points of the HS to the fuselage. Use the drill size they call out. Dana Overall Richmond, KY RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com do not archive >From: Frederick Oldenburg >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Drill Size??? >Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2003 10:15:35 -0700 (GMT-07:00) > >--> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg > > >When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number >(e.g. #12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered >bit? > >For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call >for an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how >this works, the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet >diameter (4/16 or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here. > >However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in >assembly with fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not >drill this now, but wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this >happens....am I supposed to use a 3/16 bit? > >Are these assumptions correct? > >Thanks, > >Fred > > >Fred Oldenburg >RV-7A - Empennage >http://www.rv.oldsack.com > > From the hottest toys to tips on keeping fit this winter, youll find a range of helpful holiday info here. http://special.msn.com/network/happyholidays.armx ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 11:19:29 AM PST US From: Kevin Behrent Subject: Re: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent I've checked my instructions and no where does it say to remove the plastic covering as Van's suggested on the phone. I've seen in one message thread that it appears in the RV-10 instructions, but only to advise that the blue film is easier to remove if it is removed sooner rather than later. I will be making the long drive where I live in Washington State to Van's this Friday to bring the skins for them to look at. I don't hold much hope in them helping resolve the problem only because I haven't had much luck with them. I've been asked many times why I've taken so long on my kit. Publicly, I've said I was too busy, but close friends know that I was frustrated with the kit due to the problems and lack of support I got from Van's. For example, my first set of horz stab skins were bowed so bad that they created a enormous dent in the center ribs (1/8 shims on both sides didn't come close to fixing). It appeared that the skins actually had a crease it them when they originally bent the skins so that it wasn't going to lay down. I bought a new set and drove down to pick them up. When I arrived, the skins were ducted tape closed on each end with nothing in the middle which caused them to pooch out that created a crease in the middle. I complained and was told to take it or leave it. When I returned home, I found that they fit worse than my originals. Needless to say, it took a year of heating, bending, shaping to finally get them to fit right. When continuing to work on the emp, I had problems relating the instructions to the drawings. Only after reviewing another rv-9 builders plans did I discover that my drawings were missing complete sections. Now I know why there was text with an arrow pointing into a blank space!! I called Van's and as usual the individual I spoke to didn't care and simply wanted to SELL me the preview plan set (which was not available when I originally bought my kit). I responded, "why should I buy a preview plan set when I already have a set of plans?". They weren't willing to send me a replacement drawing(s) nor were they willing to sell me new copies of the drawings in questions. After much begging and listening to the Van's employee rant about the effort it would take on his part, I received photocopies (poor quality) of the missing sections on my drawings. Needless to say, I now own a set of preview plans thanks to a generous gift from a friend. Thus I was finally able to finish my emp. At the Van's homecoming, I made the mistake of asking one of the "well known" Van's employees what kind of wash primer was being used on the QB kits. Now, I've been around long enough to know NOT to ask them about whether or not to prime. I simply wanted to know the brand, not his opinion. Instead, I got a ear full of his opinion of me asking such a stupid question to the point I walked away before I embarassed myself and give him mine! Mind you that his boss was standing next to him looking really uncomfortable about his reaction, but not willing to do anything about it. I'm only talking about a couple of individuals here and not the entire company. I am certainly not talking about Van himself, of which I have the utmost respect for. But, my experiences and hearing other similiar or even worse experiences leads me to believe that Van's reputation for customer support is really at risk because of these individuals and Van's mgmt need to address it before it becomes the norm. Giving the growing size of the operation, they need to bring on people who know how to provide customer service and properly manage it. Some of the individuals they have don't have the experience, attitude or professionalism to provide it. They are probably best left designing the next series of RVs. So, Friday is an important day for me and my relationship with Van's. I will be meeting with someone I've never met but have heard good things about. I don't plan on bringing my past experiences up and certainly hope this person will exercise better "customer support" than I have experienced in the past. One way or another, I will be bringing home new skins. Thanks for listening. No need to comment. I feel better, for now. Do not archive. linn walters wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters > > I'd like to make a suggestion: Take pictures of the corrosion and send > them to Van. If you have small pieces of aluminum with the corrosion > .... send them too. There is obviously a problem that should be > addressed. I do not know when the film is applied, but the adhesive may > be the culprit. Nobody will know unless the problem is addressed .... > and Van is the proper focal point. The aluminum sheets we use are > coated with pure aluminum. It's very thin, and scratches can easily > penetrate through the clad to the base aluminum alloy and produce the > possibility of corrosion. This is why it's good to protect the clad by > leaving the film on and only removing the film where riveting. So, as > it was so eloquently put .... between a rock and a hard place .... what > to do. Another lister read his plans/instructions ... which said remove > the film. Seems like that's what y'all should do. > Linn Walters > Do not archive > > Curt Hoffman wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Hoffman" > > > >This thread worried my some so I went downstairs to pull off the plastic on > >my wings. I have had my wing kit for about three years now. Long enough that > >the plastic on the wings is the old clear stuff while the plastic on the > >tail is blue (I went backwards since I had already built a tail on a -6). > >After removing all the plastic I found some corrosion. Mostly was little pin > >spots here and there but one of the bottom skins I haven't riveted yet > >pending my electrical decisions had quite a bit. Looked like little tiny > >dots. I was able to polish them out with some scrubbing with a scotch brite > >pad. The insides of all the surfaces were all fine since I alodined and > >primered them. > > > >As to the old plastic getting hard to remove- it is a lot easier to remove > >the old clear plastic from the wings then the brand new blue plastic off the > >rudder and elevators. That blue stuff is thinner and sticks a lot more. I > >think because it is thinner it tears / punctures easier instead of just > >pulling off. > > > >I guess I had seen so many pictures of wings with only the plastic over the > >rivet lines removed I latched on to that plan. It does protect the skin from > >scratches but as noted can cause some corrosion. Rocks and hard places come > >to mind for us slow builders. > > > >Curt Hoffman > >RV-9A wings done for now- working on tail > >Quick build fuselage now in basement > >Piper Cherokee N5320W > >1974 TR6 > > > -- Kevin Behrent Cascadia Software, Inc. 3600 Port of Tacoma Road Suite 210 Tacoma, WA 98424 Wrk: (253) 896-4000 x104 Fax: (253) 896-3680 kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:45 AM PST US From: "Phil N" Subject: RE: RV-List: IFR schools? --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" I second this! Here's what my Flight Safety instructor told me: Your IFR rating is nothing more than a ticket to learn more. Nobody is ready to tackle hard weather without considerably more ACTUAL experience. To this day (16 years later), since I don't get enough time in actual IFR I typically take a safety pilot along with me if I know I am going to be in weather. If I hit it along the way, I am trained to handle it but I don't go looking for it solo. Read the NTSB reports and you'll be surprised to find how many guys take their newly minted Instrument Rating into the clouds and bury themselves. Phil > I got my ATP through one of those one week course, so I'm not > really one to talk. But please, do yourself a favor, and if > you do get a quick IFR ticket, make sure before you fly in > actual IFR, you get lots of practice with experienced pilots, > both under the hood and in actual IFR. Learning the > principals and rules is not at all difficult, but you really > do need more practice than you can get in a week. Ask anyone > that's flown a lot in the weather, there are times it can be > incredibly challenging. ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 11:32:02 AM PST US From: "Nick N" Subject: RE: RV-List: response to military question --> RV-List message posted by: "Nick N" That's just exactly what I did. ;-) Don't regret it a bit, I found the time I spent in the military opened my eyes to a lot of cultural exposure I would have not gotten. I applaud those currently serving in our current state of un-ease. I can't imagine what it is like constantly not knowing where you will be in the next month. At least when I was in I knew (doing figure 8's in the Persian Gulf). Best of luck! Nick Nafsinger 3 years USS Nimitz w/ 2 Persian G. Tours, Shipscompany, Aviation Electronics. Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of RV_8 Pilot Subject: Re: RV-List: response to military question --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" Thanks, Glenn! we all owe you and your buddies so much for your willingness to do the tough job. In hindsight, I sure wish I'd served at least one tour. It's been my belief for the last 10-15 yrs that young people should graduate high school, join the military, *then* go to college or do what they want with their life. Thanks again. Bryan Jones -8 Pearland, Texas do not archive >I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I >work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's >and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due >to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this >time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is >doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us >ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to >be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know >when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys. Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment, video game reviews, and more here. http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx = == == == == ________________________________ Message 39 ____________________________________ Time: 11:33:39 AM PST US From: Rick Galati Subject: RV-List: Re: Drill Size??? --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati Fred, Yes, your assumptions are correct and strictly speaking you are to use a 3/16 drill bit. Now heres where I get anal about hole quality as insisted upon and my shop experience at McDonnell-Douglas. First, I would in assembly and using a drill block to insure perpendicularity, drill a #40 or #30 pilot hole through the assembly. Then, using various drill bit sizes on hand, bring the hole up to the .1800-.1850 range in as many steps as desired. Finally I would use a .1875 reamer marinated in boelube or similar for the final full size reaming. When you have an inspector ball gauge every bolt hole you drill, and the average hole can and will be rejected for being as little as 3 thousanths oversize or even less, you tend to learn quickly how little the range of acceptability really is, at least on combat aircraft. In a nutshell, any hole that will be filled with a bolt, close tolerance or otherwise, should in good practice be brought up to full size with a reamer. The steps I just outlined are certainly not necessary for the average subsonic homebuilt, but I dont think of my RV as merely average. Rick Galati RV-6A finishing --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number (e.g.#12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered bit? For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call for an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how this works,the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet diameter (4/16or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here. However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in assembly withfuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not drill this now, but wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this happens....am I supposed to use a 3/16 bit? Are these assumptions correct? Thanks, Fred Fred Oldenburg RV-7A - Empennage http://www.rv.oldsack.com --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 40 ____________________________________ Time: 11:36:35 AM PST US From: rob ray Subject: Re: RV-List: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray BTW, where in the civilized world is Kelowna? RR In Texas... Jim Jewell wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hello, To everyone like me on this list that can not always resist the temptation to jump directly out of a lack of information, directly into a forgone conclusion without using the dreaded "do not archive". What ever happened to the once common adage that suggested; People who live in glass houses should not throw stones?: With just a bit of experience with the use of a computer keyboard and some spare time on the web, anyone!, from anywhere in the world!, can enter the RV-List archives house of mirrors and see clearly into even the darkest of it's corners. Once again I will point out that by entering your own name into the rv-list archives search box you to can peruse all that you have said over the years. That is of course with the exclusion of the times that you did, wisely or not, elect to use the by now infamous Do Not Archive while posting. Regardless of your position re-the current flap, or some other emotion grabbing future issue: If you are overcome with the need to respond or otherwise jump into this, that or another one of these topics or any future inevitable out of context "food fights"; First try entering your own name in the archive search box. If you are judgmentally satisfied with your own past behavior on the list and are not in the least a bit humbled by what you find there? You will most likely feel inclined to carry on and provide the list with yet another bit of well thought out wisdom without the need for the use of the famous Do Not Archive. About stupid questions; For most of us the stupid questions we asked in the past have put us into the position of being able to ask much more highly evolved stupid questions. Questions that might impress the hell out of all except those whom have traveled the road before us. There is hope. The list has a way of surviving these bad riveting days. If you have read this far and are not yet amused at the tongue in cheek intent herein. There is but one thing I might suggest; Go back to the shop and work on your airplane, {(;-)! Jim in Kelowna Oh!. and,... DO NOT ARCHIVE (;-) --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 41 ____________________________________ Time: 11:37:42 AM PST US From: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" Subject: RE: RV-List: response to military question --> RV-List message posted by: "MARSHALL,STEPHANIE (HP-Corvallis,ex1)" I second that!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I wish I had done something like that instead of going straight to college and wasting my loan money when I had NO clue of what I really wanted to do. Steph -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of RV_8 Pilot Subject: Re: RV-List: response to military question --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" Thanks, Glenn! we all owe you and your buddies so much for your willingness to do the tough job. In hindsight, I sure wish I'd served at least one tour. It's been my belief for the last 10-15 yrs that young people should graduate high school, join the military, *then* go to college or do what they want with their life. Thanks again. Bryan Jones -8 Pearland, Texas do not archive >I am currently serving for the U.S. army reserves at fort Hood Texas. I >work as an aircraft structural repairman on Blackhawks, Apaches, OH-58's >and the Chinook. I cannot give you guys my unit identifier at this time due >to security reasons as you all well know. We have been alerted, and at this >time we do not know if we are going to be deployed. however the unit is >doing all the pre deployment paperwork and medical work up's to get us >ready to deploy, so it looks pretty serious at this time. I was supposed to >be ETSing next months drill but that has been put on hold untill we know >when or if we are to be deployed. Wish me luck guys. Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment, video game reviews, and more here. http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx ________________________________ Message 42 ____________________________________ Time: 11:40:09 AM PST US From: rob ray Subject: Re: RV-List: Traveling to Alabama --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray Since I live there most of the time and grew up in "LA", seeing Destin, FL (57nm) or Dog Island/Apalachicola on a day trip is a must. Stop by my place if you can (Skyranch, 1 nm North of the CEW VOR) 8 RV's are based on the grass strip, you're always welcome. I would see the Army aviation museum as mentioned also. Have fun. RR N13eer@aol.com wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over Thanksgiving. I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week depending on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the enterprise airport, or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to call the FBO but plan to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight while I'm in LA (lower Alabama) Thanks Alan Kritzman RV-8 --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 43 ____________________________________ Time: 11:46:50 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil for engine start --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com > >Howdy list- > >I filled my O-320 with 8 qts. of Aeroshell 100 when purchased about 4 years >ago and am curious if I can use this oil for the first time the engine has run >since going into storage. The filter was on the engine when purchased and >looks like it was fresh then, but I'm not sure of it's actual age. Any reason >not to use this oil & filter at least just for the initial fire-up, then replace >once I know the connecting rods, pistons etc are going to stay inside? > Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance. > It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated regularly since >purchased. > This was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact. The oil will not stay there. >Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the engine >has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up and >seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended? > This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well, just bolt it on and go with no worries. Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you back. > >Thanks! >Mark -6A N51PW going to the airport REAL soon! do not archive > > > > ________________________________ Message 44 ____________________________________ Time: 11:50:23 AM PST US From: "Phil N" Subject: RV-List: Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" I've been plugging along making a stack of deburred HS ribs this week. It takes me something like 20-30 minutes of deburring per piece to get what I consider a satisfactory part based on Van's instructions. Tedious is the word for this, but I thought it was what must be done. I was reading a RV8 website last night (can't remember which one) and the guy stated "it took two hours to deburr and square the flanges of the ribs for the HS". Sheesh, I have twice that already and am not even done deburring let alone squaring! Is 20-30 minutes per rib for deburring excessive (perfectionism)? (File, v-groove deburring tool, Scotchbrite wheel on exposed edges, hand sand nooks and crannies with 400 emery cloth) What about squaring the flange, do I just hand bend the edges to the point they look pretty close or do I need to get out my square and seamer and make sure they're perfect? Yup, there sure are references to squared flanges in the archives. But "straighten them or you'll see them" doesn't tell me if eyeballing is sufficient or if I need to get the square out. (OK, I need a little reassurance here..... I'll take my "insecure perfectionist" issues up with a shrink as soon as I am done building and have the spare time :-) While I'm at it, I'll ask about fluting to straighten the ribs. My ribs range from no bow to the worst being bowed 3/32 (HS806?) I figured to get the 3/32 ones down to the 1/16th range but leave the rest alone. Is 1/16th inch bow good, or should I spend another 5 minutes per part trying to get them closer than that? (and run the risk of ruining one....) It is my assumption that, as wide as the rib is, if I get it within 1/16th and properly positioned in relation to the PP holes, I will be good to go. Thanks! Phil ________________________________ Message 45 ____________________________________ Time: 11:59:09 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: FL tax question --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Ken Balch wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch > >Hey Guys, > >Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What >am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and >they get wind of my RV? > >Regards, >Ken Balch >RV-8 N118KB > > > FL has sales tax (6%, but some counties have an extra penny) and an airplane use/luxury .... something like that that you pay good money for a lousy sticker. That 'sticker' tax is poorly enforced and almost totally ignored. HOWEVER, if you're a FL resident, when you register ANY airplane, the state will come after you for sales tax, including penalties. Some folks play the tax game by buying an airplane and putting something less than full price on the FAA paperwork, and buying a headset (that's in the plane already) for the other half. 2 bills of sale. The same game can be played any of a number of ways. Just besure you have a bill of sale reflecting the 'registered' price. When the airplane is a kit, with multiple invoices, you can probably get away with using something less than all the invoices, if you get my drift. All you have to do is be able to justify the value if it comes to an audit. Linn do not archive ________________________________ Message 46 ____________________________________ Time: 12:03:37 PM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine Plenum --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I am using LightSpeed elect ign. It lowers exhaust gas temps and raises cylinder head temps. This is due to all the mixture burning in the combustion chamber and none in the exhaust. At 12:08 PM 11/19/03 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com > >In a message dated 11/19/2003 6:36:26 AM Pacific Standard Time, >bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes: >I have dual electronic ign which should make my head temps 10~15 >degrees hotter than his but they are lower. >I heard one of the advertising claims for the electronic ignition was that it >lowered the cylinder head temperature. > >Which electronic ignition manufacturer are you using? > >Jim Ayers > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 47 ____________________________________ Time: 12:08:04 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: panther piss --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Ok, so does this mean panther's can piss primer if peed through a packed port? And I did check the archives on panther's pissing primer to no avail. W ;{) Time: 04:50:05 PM PST US From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: Re: RV-List: Humm --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Only if you used the "Wrong Primer" on the breather tube. Sorry couldn't resist. Tom in Ohio Do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" Subject: RV-List: Humm > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > > So if I read yesterday's digest right I can summarize that if you try to get > a panther to piss through a breather tube plugged with sugar your canopy > will craze. > > I suppose I can see that happening. > > do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 48 ____________________________________ Time: 12:31:18 PM PST US From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: FL tax question --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" Ken, Depending on the county you are in, sales tax ranges from 6.5% and higher (7% here in Indian River County). There is no personal property tax here like there is in some states, like North Carolina for example. If you are moving to Florida and have already paid the sales tax on your car or airplane in another state, you do not owe Florida sales tax--unless it has been less than 6 months since you paid the sales tax. Sounds to me like you will not owe any sales tax at all...disclaimer: I am not a tax attorney and what I am telling you is my personal experience only! Hope this helps. Pat Hatch RV-4 RV-6 RV-7 QB (Building) Vero Beach, FL ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Balch" Subject: RV-List: FL tax question > --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch > > Hey Guys, > > Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What > am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and > they get wind of my RV? > > Regards, > Ken Balch > RV-8 N118KB > > ________________________________ Message 49 ____________________________________ Time: 12:36:37 PM PST US From: Ken Balch Subject: Re: RV-List: FL tax question --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch linn walters wrote: >FL has sales tax (6%, but some counties have an extra penny) and an >airplane use/luxury .... something like that that you pay good money for a lousy sticker. That 'sticker' tax is poorly enforced and almost totally ignored. HOWEVER, if you're a FL resident, when you register ANY airplane, the state will come after you for sales tax, including penalties. Some folks play the tax game by buying an airplane and putting something less than full price on the FAA paperwork, and buying a headset (that's in the plane already) for the other half. 2 bills of sale. The same game can be played any of a number of ways. Just besure you have a bill of sale reflecting the 'registered' price. When the airplane is a kit, with multiple invoices, you can probably get away with using something less than all the invoices, if you get my drift. All you have to do is be able to justify the value if it comes to an audit. >Linn >do not archive > > Hi Linn, Thanks for the info. One question: In the case of a completed kitplane (whose components were purchased while living in another state), why would I owe FL any sales tax at all? I wasn't a Florida resident when any portion of my RV was bought or assembled. All I'm doing is transferring an existing registration (with all applicable sales taxes paid) to a new address. I'm not going to pay sales tax twice on the same items...!!! Ken ________________________________ Message 50 ____________________________________ Time: 12:36:42 PM PST US From: Jim Oke Subject: RV-List: Denso Alternator Part # --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke Can anyone comment on the commercial usage of a Nippon Denso alternator part number 18504-6220? An alternative part number is 100211-1680, apparently the actual manufacturer is Ishikawajina and this is their part number. IOW, is there car make/model/year that utilizes this alternator? The situation is that I have one of this alternators on my -6A that came with an Aerosport O-320 (it's the 35 A alternator). It works really well and I would like to retrofit one to my RV-3 and a local autoparts house would be a convenient source. If someone could quote the Canadian Tire product number (they're a big chain of car parts places in the GWN) that would be worth some bonus points. thanks, Jim Oke Winnipeg, MB RV-6A C-GKGZ RV-3 C-FIZM ________________________________ Message 51 ____________________________________ Time: 12:54:26 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hi Rob, Kelowna is in British Columbia Canada. It is about 150 miles inland from the coast and 90 miles North of the 49th parallel. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "rob ray" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive > --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray > > BTW, where in the civilized world is Kelowna? > > RR > In Texas... > > Jim Jewell wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" > > Hello, > > To everyone like me on this list that can not always resist the temptation > to jump directly out of a lack of information, directly into a forgone > conclusion without using the dreaded "do not archive". > > What ever happened to the once common adage that suggested; People who live > in glass houses should not throw stones?: > > With just a bit of experience with the use of a computer keyboard and some > spare time on the web, anyone!, from anywhere in the world!, can enter the > RV-List archives house of mirrors and see clearly into even the darkest of > it's corners. > > Once again I will point out that by entering your own name into the rv-list > archives search box you to can peruse all that you have said over the years. > That is of course with the exclusion of the times that you did, wisely or > not, elect to use the by now infamous Do Not Archive while posting. > > Regardless of your position re-the current flap, or some other emotion > grabbing future issue: > > If you are overcome with the need to respond or otherwise jump into this, > that or another one of these topics or any future inevitable out of context > "food fights"; > > First try entering your own name in the archive search box. > If you are judgmentally satisfied with your own past behavior on the list > and are not in the least a bit humbled by what you find there? You will most > likely feel inclined to carry on and provide the list with yet another bit > of well thought out wisdom without the need for the use of the famous Do Not > Archive. > > About stupid questions; > For most of us the stupid questions we asked in the past have put us into > the position of being able to ask much more highly evolved stupid questions. > Questions that might impress the hell out of all except those whom have > traveled the road before us. > > There is hope. The list has a way of surviving these bad riveting days. > > If you have read this far and are not yet amused at the tongue in cheek > intent herein. There is but one thing I might suggest; > > Go back to the shop and work on your airplane, {(;-)! > > > Jim in Kelowna Oh!. and,... DO NOT ARCHIVE (;-) > > > --------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 52 ____________________________________ Time: 12:59:24 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: Timing light --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North John, let me add a little too much to Cy's response. First, roughly said, timing is set to cause the maximum average of pressure created to exchange the most amount of rotary force into the crankshaft. The rate of fuel burn (180-220ft per sec) doesn't vary much within normal oprating air/fuel ratios. So if the piston is coming up faster then one has to spark it earlier to achieve the above stated pressure cycle at the right time. This pressure timing point is known as Powell's magic angle (15 deg ATDC) and is true for all reciprocating engines. The other factors that effect the spark timing point is the rate that the induction and exhaust can ventilate the cylinder, and what RPM range the engine is designed to deliver its torque. In any event RPM is the big factor in spark timing. Because aircraft engines are coupled to their drive environment hydraulically (ie a prop in air) rather than in a fixed fashion like a tire on the road, and the fact that this prop has a fairly tight range of torque conversion to thrust (ie AOA of the wing shape only delivers load to the engine, or thrust from the engine in a fairly narrow range of RPM, where a car has to deliver high torque from just above idle to max RPM) they only really need to be timed for a narrow range of RPM. Its easier and more reliable to fix the timing for one RPM value, below that RPM they are over advanced, and above that RPM they are under advanced in timing. So lets say one sets the mags to be most efficent at 75% power which for a fixed pitch which might be 2400 RPM. (This may vary slightly with constant speed engines, but the usually aim for a similar timing RPM, and that said, a constant speed engine is one place that an advanced electronic ignition can really add to fuel efficiency) If the engine goes above this the timing is retarded for that RPM, which is good because it reduces detonation some. If it goes below then it is too far advanced, but who cares because at power settings below 75% a little advance will add power without causing detonation. In any event the total RPM range from 50% to 100% power might be 600 rpm rather than the 4000 rpm range you would find in a ground engine. The only time there is a problem is when starting, as the timing is way too advanced for 150-300 RPM. In this case they use devices to retard only during starting such as an impulse coupler or shower of sparks. Therefore having the time change in an aircraft engine doesn't do much. And having it right on to the 10th of a deg is meaningless becasue you are just saying it most effecient at 2400 rpm rather than 2410. Who cares. It is far more important to get both mags equal then it is to get them on the right deg. And most specs allow for a fairly wide range of error, say .5 to 1.5 degs. Given that the radius of the ring gear is roughly 10 inches, the circumference is 62.8", therefore each degree is roughly 3/16" of travel at the ring gear. With static timing methods that's a lot of sensitivity, there is no need to have a fancy dynamic device for setting this. The real advantage of dynamic timing is it allows one to also test the advancing features of the automotive distributor, but I can assure you that I can get an automotive distributor as accurately timed satically as I can dynamically. I've done it many times when its a bitch to get the timing gun aimed on the pully. This is probably far more than you ever wanted to know though. W Time: 01:31:04 PM PST US From: "John" Subject: RV-List: Safety Concerns --> RV-List message posted by: "John" I have always timed my Lycoming with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the timing mark aligned with the case halves. This has worked for a long time. I now want to get more technical and have purchased a fancy digital timing light that has a LCD screen with direct read out. My concern is: How to use the light on a running engine...I have an RV6A and would have to be up on a step stool behind the prop in order to see what's going on. The notion of slipping off the stool, or otherwise getting tangled up in the prop has me, frankly, more than "concerned" -I can't see standing in from of the prop with the engine going and using the light.... What do you techies do in such a situation? (And, yes, I have checked the archives first.) John ________________________________ Message 53 ____________________________________ Time: 01:11:19 PM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil for engine start --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com Thanks for the reply- Notes "imbedded" below.... > Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is > cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance. > Agreed- just curious if the oil could actually "age" lying dormant in the engine four years- has had dessicant plugs in entire time and cover plates bolted to exhaust & carb openings- breather & all oil ports plugged... I mean, if there is nothing "wrong" with the oil, why toss it out? > > It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated > regularly since > >purchased. > > > This was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the > sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any > good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of > oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the > rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact. > The oil will not stay there. > Clarification- Until bolting to the mount, it was on an engine stand and rotated, or flipped over to submerge the cam & coat the cylinders every couple of months. I also spun it with the starter (plugs out) about once a year until a gauge connected to it showed pressure, about 30-35 psi IIRC. > >Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the > engine > >has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up > and > >seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended? > > > This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a > throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control > to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If > there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture > control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the > throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well, > just bolt it on and go with no worries. > It has the pump- basically just checking that the pump seal is pliable enough not to leak? > Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then > there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of > time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you back. > Time's not the problem- it's the spare change to the overhauler that would be a setback- remember it's a USED engine!! 8-) Thanks again- Mark ________________________________ Message 54 ____________________________________ Time: 01:18:30 PM PST US From: Lenleg@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver --> RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com In a message dated 11/19/2003 11:40:35 AM Eastern Standard Time, jconnell@rconnect.com writes: Gentlemen (and ladies too), I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4 postings. Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio? Thanks, Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage) Joe: I have the ICOM ... have had no problems ... receive and transmit clearly. Wish it had standby freqency monitor though !!! Len Leggette, RV-8A Greensboro, NC N910LL 166 hrs ________________________________ Message 55 ____________________________________ Time: 01:25:51 PM PST US From: Ken Balch Subject: Re: RV-List: FL tax question --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch Hi Pat, Thanks for the info. FWIW, I'll be in Marion County. That makes sense to me (though I'd be pissed if I'd paid within the last six months). So, if sales tax isn't applicable, does Florida assess any sort of luxury/use tax for the 'privilege' of owning and operating an airplane in the state? Here's a twist: what if I'm coming from a state, like, say MA, who abolished sales & use taxes on aircraft just in time for me to avoid it entirely. Will I have to show proof of having paid somewhere to be exempt in FL? Hope to see you down there in sunny FL early next year. I should be at the RV flyin at Lakeland in January. Regards, Ken Do Not Archive Pat Hatch wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" > >Ken, > >Depending on the county you are in, sales tax ranges from 6.5% and higher >(7% here in Indian River County). There is no personal property tax here >like there is in some states, like North Carolina for example. If you are >moving to Florida and have already paid the sales tax on your car or >airplane in another state, you do not owe Florida sales tax--unless it has >been less than 6 months since you paid the sales tax. Sounds to me like you >will not owe any sales tax at all...disclaimer: I am not a tax attorney and >what I am telling you is my personal experience only! > >Hope this helps. > >Pat Hatch >RV-4 >RV-6 >RV-7 QB (Building) >Vero Beach, FL >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Ken Balch" >To: >Subject: RV-List: FL tax question > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch >> >>Hey Guys, >> >>Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What >>am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and >>they get wind of my RV? >> >>Regards, >>Ken Balch >>RV-8 N118KB >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 56 ____________________________________ Time: 01:27:31 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: OSH Vintage --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Lyle, There's a bunch of us advanced RV souls who take advantage of the great hospitality of the wonderful folks down at Vintage. We are so awesome they even included our picture in the September issue of Sport Aviation, unlike the druts up in Homebuilt country. Get there early (24th or 25th) and we'll get you up into the coveted westside parking where the only flames are the ones coming out of Sally's Alley and Denver's Titillating Tea Parties. Who knows, someday Randy might even let you park in Row 69W. W do not archive ________________________________ Message 57 ____________________________________ Time: 01:34:03 PM PST US From: Richard Tasker Subject: Re: RV-List: Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker Of course my RV9A is not flying yet, so take my advice with a grain of salt... :-) I had the same concern you seem to have when I started. So I called Van's and they said that if you cannot cut yourself on the part you have deburred it enough. The only real problem that deburring must do is to eliminate stress risers that might cause fractures in the future. When the aluminum is cut there are small "bumps" where one set of cutters/shears end and another starts. These could be a problem over the long term. Therefore, they must be removed. Anything beyond that is gravy. If you continue doing what you are doing your plane may last longer than mine. On the other hand, they will both last longer than either one of us will care about! After I got into the groove of deburring, it didn't take all that long. What I ended up doing was to use a file or the 6" scotchbrite wheel to remove the tooling marks from the edges. Then I found that I could remove the sharp corners from the edges better with the standard deburring tool. I found that the dual (V-groove) tool tended to leave a burr unless I went over it several times. The standard deburring tool worked with one pass. Most nooks and crannies can be reached with the standard deburring tool. As far as fluting goes... The amount of bend depends on the curve of the part. You are going to have some parts bowed a whole lot more than the 3/32 you have seen so far as you move along to the wings and fuselage! Once you get the hang of it you will be able to flute a part in short order and will be able to judge how much to flute without constantly checking. When I reached that state, I would just flute the part completely and then do a quick check by laying it flat on my bench or other flat surface. I was usually able to get it within 1/16 on the first pass and then tweak one or two flutes to get it perfect. The bottom line is that it doesn't take long and when you get the hang of it you will be able to get it virtually perfect with little effort. I always did the flanges after the fluting and just bent them by hand in most cases. I checked them by using a square held against the flat side of the part and checking the squareness of the flange. Again, I have been able to get them square quite easily and quickly. I think that as you gain experience you will get faster and more able to do what you have to do by eye with just a final check with the square or the tabletop. Dick Tasker, RV9A, 90573 Fuselage Phil N wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" > > >I've been plugging along making a stack of deburred HS ribs this week. >It takes me something like 20-30 minutes of deburring per piece to get >what I consider a satisfactory part based on Van's instructions. >Tedious is the word for this, but I thought it was what must be done. I >was reading a RV8 website last night (can't remember which one) and the >guy stated "it took two hours to deburr and square the flanges of the >ribs for the HS". Sheesh, I have twice that already and am not even >done deburring let alone squaring! > >Is 20-30 minutes per rib for deburring excessive (perfectionism)? (File, >v-groove deburring tool, Scotchbrite wheel on exposed edges, hand sand >nooks and crannies with 400 emery cloth) > >What about squaring the flange, do I just hand bend the edges to the >point they look pretty close or do I need to get out my square and >seamer and make sure they're perfect? > >Yup, there sure are references to squared flanges in the archives. But >"straighten them or you'll see them" doesn't tell me if eyeballing is >sufficient or if I need to get the square out. (OK, I need a little >reassurance here..... I'll take my "insecure perfectionist" issues up >with a shrink as soon as I am done building and have the spare time :-) > >While I'm at it, I'll ask about fluting to straighten the ribs. My ribs >range from no bow to the worst being bowed 3/32 (HS806?) I figured to >get the 3/32 ones down to the 1/16th range but leave the rest alone. Is >1/16th inch bow good, or should I spend another 5 minutes per part >trying to get them closer than that? (and run the risk of ruining >one....) It is my assumption that, as wide as the rib is, if I get it >within 1/16th and properly positioned in relation to the PP holes, I >will be good to go. > >Thanks! > >Phil > > > > ________________________________ Message 58 ____________________________________ Time: 01:41:00 PM PST US From: Jim Oke Subject: Re: RV-List: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke Try about 200 miles NNW of Spokane, Wash. Others can decide if that is within the civilized world or not! :-) Jim Oke Wpg, MB (usually described as 60 miles N of North Dakota) RV_6A Do Not Archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "rob ray" Subject: Re: RV-List: Re-Food Fights, questions, and do not archive > --> RV-List message posted by: rob ray > > BTW, where in the civilized world is Kelowna? > > RR > In Texas... ________________________________ Message 59 ____________________________________ Time: 02:01:34 PM PST US From: SportAV8R@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com Echo Len's sentiments on the A200. After 3 years or so, the rubber sleeves on the tuning and volume knobs dry-rotted and fell off, but I can still turn them fine with my fingers on the bare metal. I've been too lazy to contact ICOM for replacement part$. -Bill B ________________________________ Message 60 ____________________________________ Time: 03:10:56 PM PST US From: Gary Zilik Subject: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps Netscape/7.1 (ax) --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik Disclaimer - I have searched the archives I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when 12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane??? Gary Zilik ________________________________ Message 61 ____________________________________ Time: 03:17:06 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Timing light From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" That's what I was gonna say but Ive just been so busy, well. I just didn't have time:) Holy cow. Thanks W. Mike Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: Timing light --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North John, let me add a little too much to Cy's response. First, roughly said, timing is set to cause the maximum average of pressure created to exchange the most amount of rotary force into the crankshaft. The rate of fuel burn (180-220ft per sec) doesn't vary much within normal oprating air/fuel ratios. So if the piston is coming up faster then one has to spark it earlier to achieve the above stated pressure cycle at the right time. This pressure timing point is known as Powell's magic angle (15 deg ATDC) and is true for all reciprocating engines. The other factors that effect the spark timing point is the rate that the induction and exhaust can ventilate the cylinder, and what RPM range the engine is designed to deliver its torque. In any event RPM is the big factor in spark timing. Because aircraft engines are coupled to their drive environment hydraulically (ie a prop in air) rather than in a fixed fashion like a tire on the road, and the fact that this prop has a fairly tight range of torque conversion to thrust (ie AOA of the wing shape only delivers load to the engine, or thrust from the engine in a fairly narrow range of RPM, where a car has to deliver high torque from just above idle to max RPM) they only really need to be timed for a narrow range of RPM. Its easier and more reliable to fix the timing for one RPM value, below that RPM they are over advanced, and above that RPM they are under advanced in timing. So lets say one sets the mags to be most efficent at 75% power which for a fixed pitch which might be 2400 RPM. (This may vary slightly with constant speed engines, but the usually aim for a similar timing RPM, and that said, a constant speed engine is one place that an advanced electronic ignition can really add to fuel efficiency) If the engine goes above this the timing is retarded for that RPM, which is good because it reduces detonation some. If it goes below then it is too far advanced, but who cares because at power settings below 75% a little advance will add power without causing detonation. In any event the total RPM range from 50% to 100% power might be 600 rpm rather than the 4000 rpm range you would find in a ground engine. The only time there is a problem is when starting, as the timing is way too advanced for 150-300 RPM. In this case they use devices to retard only during starting such as an impulse coupler or shower of sparks. Therefore having the time change in an aircraft engine doesn't do much. And having it right on to the 10th of a deg is meaningless becasue you are just saying it most effecient at 2400 rpm rather than 2410. Who cares. It is far more important to get both mags equal then it is to get them on the right deg. And most specs allow for a fairly wide range of error, say .5 to 1.5 degs. Given that the radius of the ring gear is roughly 10 inches, the circumference is 62.8", therefore each degree is roughly 3/16" of travel at the ring gear. With static timing methods that's a lot of sensitivity, there is no need to have a fancy dynamic device for setting this. The real advantage of dynamic timing is it allows one to also test the advancing features of the automotive distributor, but I can assure you that I can get an automotive distributor as accurately timed satically as I can dynamically. I've done it many times when its a bitch to get the timing gun aimed on the pully. This is probably far more than you ever wanted to know though. W Time: 01:31:04 PM PST US From: "John" Subject: RV-List: Safety Concerns --> RV-List message posted by: "John" I have always timed my Lycoming with the #1 cylinder at TDC and the timing mark aligned with the case halves. This has worked for a long time. I now want to get more technical and have purchased a fancy digital timing light that has a LCD screen with direct read out. My concern is: How to use the light on a running engine...I have an RV6A and would have to be up on a step stool behind the prop in order to see what's going on. The notion of slipping off the stool, or otherwise getting tangled up in the prop has me, frankly, more than "concerned" -I can't see standing in from of the prop with the engine going and using the light.... What do you techies do in such a situation? (And, yes, I have checked the archives first.) John = == == == == ________________________________ Message 62 ____________________________________ Time: 03:25:07 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: rv-list stupid questions From: smoothweasel@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com To the new builder - keep asking the questions. Chuck Rowbotham RV-8A Thanks Chuck........... Joel "Weasel" Graber ________________________________ Message 63 ____________________________________ Time: 03:59:58 PM PST US From: JDaniel343@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps --> RV-List message posted by: JDaniel343@aol.com Try placing a 4.7V 1W Zener Diode on the positive lead to the LED and a 1/4 watt 620 Ohm Resistor on the negative lead of the LED. This should let you use a dimmer on the LED's also. Thank Randall Henderson for this. I used two LED's in my roll bar on the pilot side to illuminate the 6 flight instruments. All my other gauges are lighted. John Danielson RV-6 175 hrs. ________________________________ Message 64 ____________________________________ Time: 04:32:47 PM PST US From: "Patrick Kelley" Subject: RE: RV-List: Drill Size??? --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" Yes, you will be using a 3/16" bit (or, for the a-retentive, a smaller size followed by a 3/16" close-tolerance reamer). If you look ahead in the plans, you will be using 3/16" bolts here, which is why you wait and drill in assembly (to ensure correct alignment). For your wing spar, you will be using close-tolerance bolts and holes; for the other attachment points it is not as critical but the closer the better. Generally, for bolts, you want a uniformly round hole loose enough for a slip fit (so as not to damage the bolt's shank when inserting it) and tight enough to prevent the joined parts from wiggling. Resist the urge to overtighten the bolt to prevent the latter; if you tighten a bolt enough to resist lateral forces you have almost certainly weakened the shank. I tightened my wing rib bolts by hand before acquiring a torque wrench and ended up replacing them all because I had overtorqued them by a factor of about 3! Generally, a fractional drill will do an adequate job for normal AN bolts, which are sized in 1/16" diameter increments but good practice is to drill the next number size smaller and ream to fit the particular bolt. Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - the hard way (still skinning the fuselage) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frederick Oldenburg Subject: RV-List: Drill Size??? --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number (e.g. #12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered bit? For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call for an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how this works, the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet diameter (4/16 or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here. However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in assembly with fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not drill this now, but wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this happens....am I supposed to use a 3/16 bit? Are these assumptions correct? Thanks, Fred Fred Oldenburg RV-7A - Empennage http://www.rv.oldsack.com = == == == == ________________________________ Message 65 ____________________________________ Time: 04:36:24 PM PST US From: "Randy Compton" Subject: Re: RV-List: FL tax question --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Compton" > FL has sales tax (6%, but some counties have an extra penny) It's not simply "an extra penny" tax, it's an additional 1% tax levied on every 100% dollar that you spend. Of course, politicians love calling it a "penny" tax....sounds so innocent and "affordable." Got lots of pennies lying around, right? Just keep in mind that you only have 100 politician "pennies". And when all the little harmless "penny" taxes reach 100 (federal income tax pennies, gas tax pennies, state income tax pennies, etc.), your piggy bank is empty. Randy Compton RV-3 N84VF Gulf Breeze, FL Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 66 ____________________________________ Time: 04:42:08 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? 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Essentially the LED alone created a short circuit on the power supply until it burned out. Using ohms law of V = IR, re-arranging to resolve resistance R = V/I. So, voltage will be 12 - assuming a standard battery, current is the current rating of the LED - assuming 20ma, the resistance would be .... hmm ... well just read this web site page and it explains it MUCH better than me! http://www.theledlight.com/LED101.html Ron ________________________________ Message 68 ____________________________________ Time: 05:01:13 PM PST US From: "J. R. Dial" Subject: RV-List: Cockpit Lights --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball" lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished) Thanks, Dick Dial ________________________________ Message 69 ____________________________________ Time: 05:09:41 PM PST US From: "Jerry Calvert" Subject: RV-List: marvel carb fuel line attach question --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" I am attaching the fuel line to the marvel carb on my 0-320. I need the fitting that screws into the carb for attaching the fuel line. Is that a special fitting or just a 1/8NPT or a flare fitting where it screws into the carb? Thanks, Jerry Calvert Edmond Ok RV6 N296JC res ________________________________ Message 70 ____________________________________ Time: 05:13:16 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps From: --> RV-List message posted by: Hi Gary, All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance in ohms) Have a look at http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/K-12/Sample_Projects/Ohms_Law/ohmslaw.html Why 720 ohms? That's a standard resistor size and allows a little leeway for voltage spikes Experiment!! Cheers John Morrissey -----Original Message----- From: Gary Zilik [mailto:zilik@direcpc.com] Subject: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik Disclaimer - I have searched the archives I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when 12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane??? Gary Zilik = == == == == ________________________________ Message 71 ____________________________________ Time: 05:23:06 PM PST US From: "John" Subject: Re: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? --> RV-List message posted by: "John" fL34M34r3-K9348hJNDU JSDMNF I couldn't agree more ! ________________________________ Message 72 ____________________________________ Time: 05:24:28 PM PST US From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: Fw: RV-List: Engine Plenum --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" John, Gary, Scott & Don......Thanks for all the input both on and off the list concerning Plenum VS. Plans Approach. Your time and input is much appreciated. DO NOT ARCHIVE Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: RV-List: Engine Plenum > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" > > List, Getting ready to fabricate the engine baffles on my RV6-A with an 0-360A1A and was wondering if anybody who has went the route of a sealed Aluminum Plenum can give any feedback? > 1) Would you do it again? > 2) Notice better cooling? > 3) Increased speed? > Don Eaves had some great pictures on the List Photo Share but very little info in the archives. > Tom in Ohio > Cowling and paint > > ________________________________ Message 73 ____________________________________ Time: 05:26:22 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Go to radio shack, buy the $1.99 panel mount LED's (Green, Red, Amber) that take a 1/4" hole. Get the ones that already have the resistor in line which will handle 12 volts directly. I have one of these on my fuel pump toggle, so I have a small reminder and don't forget it's on! Cheers, Stein Bruch http://www.steinair.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Gary Zilik Subject: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik Disclaimer - I have searched the archives I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when 12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane??? Gary Zilik ________________________________ Message 74 ____________________________________ Time: 06:12:07 PM PST US From: Gert Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps --> RV-List message posted by: Gert Bill In the end it depends on the voltage drop for your LED and the current through the LED. Not all LED are created equal so you will need those parameters, Radio Shack tends to print this info right on the back of the package. So, if a LED runs on 1.7 volts at 20 millAmp the resistor would be: (bus voltage - LED voltage ) divided by LED current, rounded to the nearest commercial resistor value. Aerolectrics website has a very good primer on LED's and how to calculate these values. of course you could gang several LED's in series to get close to the bus volatge in your airplane. try http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/leds3.pdf Gert Gary Zilik wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik > > Disclaimer - I have searched the archives > > I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things > as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little > led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they > were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when > 12 volts is applied. It seems pretty obvious I need a simple power > supply or something inline with them to lower the voltage. Any of you > electronic geniuses have an easy fix???? Vondane??? > > Gary Zilik > > > > > > > > -- is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500 ________________________________ Message 75 ____________________________________ Time: 06:12:07 PM PST US From: "Jerry Isler" Subject: Re: RV-List: Traveling to Alabama --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" Alan, If you want to see something impressive, cruise up to Troy, Alabama (KTOI) and drop in on the Wiley Sanders (of Wiley Sanders Truck Lines fame) hangers. It's less than 30 miles north of where you will be and is one of the most impressive personal collections of aircraft you will see. Fellow lister Craig Hiers and myself went there last Saturday to see what was new. This guy has the following: Two B-25's and one each of the following: P-51, T-28, L-19 Bird Dog, DC-3, AD-1 Skyraider, Beech 18, T-6, Stearman Biplane, Gulfstream II, Cessna Citation, S2 tracker, and the second T-2 Buckeye jet trainer in civilian hands. The T-2 was fresh out of rebuild and was absolutely beautiful in gleaming white with orange trim. There was also a Harmon Rocket and another Gulfstream II in the hangers that belonged to one of Sanders partners. I probably left something off the list. We were made welcome and were allowed free access to all the aircraft. It humbles me to see how the poor folks live........ Jerry Isler RV4 N455J Donalsonville, GA > --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com > > I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law over Thanksgiving. I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a week depending on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the enterprise airport, or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance to call the FBO but plan to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see sight while I'm in LA (lower Alabama) > > Thanks > Alan Kritzman > RV-8 ________________________________ Message 76 ____________________________________ Time: 06:18:13 PM PST US From: Charlie & Tupper England Subject: RV-List: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders: 1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'. 2. The instructions on DWG 5 for assembling the elevator horn weldments to the hor. stab. bearing say that you should use no more than 3 AN960-416's on each side of the bearing. All the parts of my tail assy have fit with the prepunched holes lining up properly, but I need at least 4 AN960-416's & an AN960-416L on one side & at least an additional AN960-416L on the other side to avoid stressing the other hinge brackets. Did anyone else go with the obvious solution of more washers & a longer bolt? Tip for those like me without a convenient lathe to make the bearing drill bushing (for drilling the horn weldments): I found a nylon standoff at the hardware store that was 1/4" outside & #4 screw size inside. I used whatever size drill from my drill index that was a snug fit in the standoff. Thanks, Charlie (hoping my wing skins haven't turned to powder sitting in the boxes over the last 5 months) ________________________________ Message 77 ____________________________________ Time: 06:23:17 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil for engine start --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" The "aged" oil doesn't bother me since it hasn't been contaminated by combustion. The Carb on the other hand should be checked for the proper float. There are 4 versions of the float. The old ADed metal, the first plastic float which will sink after being in fuel a while, an improved metal float and finally a second generation plastic. There should be some markings on the carb if indicating the float inside. Also the 2 piece venturi needs to be checked for looseness. If it isn't loose don't what every you do change to the one piece venturi. If it is loose you have to make the change which isn't always the best. You also should check with a mirror to see if the venturi has heat damage or is melted from a back fire. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org Always looking for articles for the Experimenter ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil for engine start > --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com > > > Thanks for the reply- Notes "imbedded" below.... > > > Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is > > cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance. > > > Agreed- just curious if the oil could actually "age" lying dormant in the > engine four years- has had dessicant plugs in entire time and cover plates bolted > to exhaust & carb openings- breather & all oil ports plugged... I mean, if > there is nothing "wrong" with the oil, why toss it out? > > > > It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated > > regularly since > > >purchased. > > > > > This was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the > > sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any > > good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of > > oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the > > rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact. > > The oil will not stay there. > > > Clarification- Until bolting to the mount, it was on an engine stand and > rotated, or flipped over to submerge the cam & coat the cylinders every couple of > months. I also spun it with the starter (plugs out) about once a year until a > gauge connected to it showed pressure, about 30-35 psi IIRC. > > > >Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the > > engine > > >has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up > > and > > >seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended? > > > > > This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a > > throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control > > to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If > > there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture > > control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the > > throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well, > > just bolt it on and go with no worries. > > > > It has the pump- basically just checking that the pump seal is pliable enough > not to leak? > > > Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then > > there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of > > time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you back. > > > Time's not the problem- it's the spare change to the overhauler that would be > a setback- remember it's a USED engine!! 8-) > > Thanks again- > Mark > > ________________________________ Message 78 ____________________________________ Time: 06:48:48 PM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Muff --> RV-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" At least on the Cessna and my 48 Bellanca, the loop has a dump so there is always cooling air going thru the muff. When you nee heat, the air stream is diverted into the cabin. The air stream itself is never shut off, just rerouted. Even the carb heat is done this way in many airplanes. Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club Newsletter Editor & EAA TC www.bellanca-championclub.com Actively supporting Aeroncas every day Quarterly newsletters on time Reasonable document reprints ----- Original Message ----- From: "linn walters" Subject: Re: RV-List: Heat Muff > --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters > > smoothweasel@juno.com wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com > > > > > >Good Day to everyone!!! Today a follow RV builder was here to look at > >my project and was concerned that I did NOT have provisions to vent my > >heat muff when the heater is not in use. He seemed to think the exhaust > >needed some kind of cooling. Is there anyone out there flying that > >does not have these provisions? Thanx > > > >Joel "Weasel" Graber > >RV-4 trying to finish > >Brooksville MS > > > Take a look at a certified aircraft if you get the chance. My > experience says the cabin/windshield heat is a closed system with a > control to open the valve to the cockpit. No other vent if the heat is > not in use. > Linn > > ________________________________ Message 79 ____________________________________ Time: 07:31:51 PM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: FL tax question --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Ken Balch wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch > >linn walters wrote: > > > >>FL has sales tax (6%, but some counties have an extra penny) and an >>airplane use/luxury .... something like that that you pay good money for a lousy sticker. That 'sticker' tax is poorly enforced and almost totally ignored. HOWEVER, if you're a FL resident, when you register ANY airplane, the state will come after you for sales tax, including penalties. Some folks play the tax game by buying an airplane and putting something less than full price on the FAA paperwork, and buying a headset (that's in the plane already) for the other half. 2 bills of sale. The same game can be played any of a number of ways. Just besure you have a bill of sale reflecting the 'registered' price. When the airplane is a kit, with multiple invoices, you can probably get away with using something less than all the invoices, if you get my drift. All you have to do is be able to justify the value if it comes to an audit. >>Linn >>do not archive >> >> >> >> >Hi Linn, > >Thanks for the info. One question: In the case of a completed kitplane >(whose components were purchased while living in another state), why >would I owe FL any sales tax at all? I wasn't a Florida resident when >any portion of my RV was bought or assembled. All I'm doing is >transferring an existing registration (with all applicable sales taxes >paid) to a new address. I'm not going to pay sales tax twice on the >same items...!!! > >Ken > True. I didn't know that the tax is already paid, or that the kit was completed. If it's already registered then FL won't even know about it. Actually, I don't really know if the registration of the airplane needs to be changed if you move. I know that your address of record needs to be changed with the FAA and you can do that online, I believe. Someone more knowledgeable will have to chime in. Linn do not archive ________________________________ Message 80 ____________________________________ Time: 07:45:42 PM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil for engine start --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com >Thanks for the reply- Notes "imbedded" below.... > > >>Well, let me ask why not change the oil and filter instead. Oil is >>cheap. Filters are cheap. Your engine is not. Cheap insurance. >> >greed- just curious if the oil could actually "age" lying dormant in the >engine four years- has had dessicant plugs in entire time and cover plates bolted >to exhaust & carb openings- breather & all oil ports plugged... I mean, if >there is nothing "wrong" with the oil, why toss it out? > Hmmm. I see your point. Just as a WAG, since the engine has been sealed so good, I doubt if there's been any change in viscosity or chemistry. The problem is that you don't really know. Cans of oil don't seem to have a shelf life, so why not an engine 'can'? It has about 850TT on it, is an E3D (150hp) and has been rotated >>regularly since >> >> >>>purchased. >>> >>his was not really a good thing. Our engines hold all their oil in the >>sump, and you cannot turn it over fast enough for the oil pump to do any >>good. The oil will drain off everything, leaving a very thin film of >>oil in the bottom of the cylinder walls. When you turn the crank, the >>rings scrape that thin film off and you have metal to metal contact. >>The oil will not stay there. >> >> >> >Clarification- Until bolting to the mount, it was on an engine stand and >rotated, or flipped over to submerge the cam & coat the cylinders every couple of >months. I also spun it with the starter (plugs out) about once a year until a >gauge connected to it showed pressure, about 30-35 psi IIRC. > You did good. I doubt that you'll have any problems with the engine since you cared for it this way. The clarification helps!!! >>>Also, I have no idea how long since the Marvel carb that came with the >>> >>> >>engine >> >> >>>has been operated. Is there any particular risk with just bolting it up >>> >>> >>and >> >> >>>seeing if it is OK or is an overhaul normally recommended? >>> >>> >>> >>This isn't easy to answer, but I'll try. If the carb does NOT have a >>throttle pump, I would fill it with fuel and operte the mixture control >>to make sure it's fee and just bolt it on and go with no worries. If >>there is a throttle pump, I'd fill it with fuel, operate the mixture >>control, and work the throttle pump to see if it'll spray fuel down the >>throat. If it's wimpy ..... overhaul it. If all seems to work well, >>just bolt it on and go with no worries. >> >It has the pump- basically just checking that the pump seal is pliable enough >not to leak? > Yes. >>Either way, the engine will run well or it won't, and if it won't then >>there's always the overhauler. You'll run the engine a fair amount of >>time before you're ready to fly so the overhauler time won't set you back. >> >> >Time's not the problem- it's the spare change to the overhauler that would be >a setback- remember it's a USED engine!! 8-) > Hey, I can relate to that!!! Bucks is bucks. Best of luck. Linn do not archive > >Thanks again- >Mark > > > ________________________________ Message 81 ____________________________________ Time: 07:48:29 PM PST US From: "Don Eaves" Subject: Re: RV-List: marvel carb fuel line attach question --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Eaves" Jerry go to this link: http://home.kc.rr.com/pauljana/fwfhoses.gif Looks like an AN822-6D Don Don Eaves doneaves@midsouth.rr.com RV 6 Flying 200 + Hrs. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jerry Calvert" Subject: RV-List: marvel carb fuel line attach question > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" > > I am attaching the fuel line to the marvel carb on my 0-320. I need the fitting that screws into the carb for attaching the fuel line. > > Is that a special fitting or just a 1/8NPT or a flare fitting where it screws into the carb? > > Thanks, > Jerry Calvert > Edmond Ok RV6 > N296JC res > > ________________________________ Message 82 ____________________________________ Time: 07:48:33 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: Re: RV-List: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 05:01 PM 11/19/2003 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com > >Echo Len's sentiments on the A200. After 3 years or so, the rubber >sleeves on the tuning and volume knobs dry-rotted and fell off, but I can >still turn them fine with my fingers on the bare metal. I've been too >lazy to contact ICOM for replacement part$. Me too. I still have one of the rubber sleeves but guess I need to ask for two. Heat also warped the top of the plastic faceplate. It is, however, a nice low cost radio. hal kempthorne ________________________________ Message 83 ____________________________________ Time: 08:08:16 PM PST US From: kempthornes Subject: RE: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps --> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes At 12:12 PM 11/20/2003 +1100, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: > >All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds >require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor >for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance >in ohms) For sure all you need is a resistor, mine has been working for over 150 hours now. What we need to limit is the voltage across the LED I think. More than about 5V blow them away. Since the LED draws about 20ma as you say, and this value is at 5V then the resistance of the LED is: E=IR 5 = 0.020 * R therefore R = 5 / 0.020 or 250 ohms the completed circuit, in order to drop to 5V should be E=IR 12 = 0.020 * (250 + R) therefore R = 350 --- I think I used a 470 ohms but maybe I guessed! Maybe the resistor is in parallel. This email is about as useless as some of the dull witted humor we see on the rvlist. Maybe we need electric bob? K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) ________________________________ Message 84 ____________________________________ Time: 08:23:17 PM PST US From: "Darwin N. Barrie" Subject: Re: RV-List: tip-up rear window fit --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" This was extremely frustrating. I thought everything would be very nice after the "Big Cut." Man was I wrong. I squared up the canopy part to my line on the roll bar by cutting, sanding. When satisfied with that I did the same to the rear window portion. Finally, when it was all close I taped everything down and ran the cutting disc between the two pieces for an exact spacing. Worked great but go slow. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ ----- Original Message ----- From: "thomas a. sargent" Subject: RV-List: tip-up rear window fit > --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" > > I have the rear window on my RV-6A tip-up close to its final size, but not yet drilled to the F-674 skin or the roll bar. When I clamp it in place I notice that it lays flat along the top of the roll bar, but along the sides of the roll bar, there is about 1/16" gap between the forward edge of the plexi and the surface of the roll bar. There the plexi contacts the roll bar only at its aft edge. > > When you think of the geometry of the situation, it seems to me that this is inescapable. The roll bar is built square, that is, the part that the plexi lays on is perpendicular to the bar's forward and aft faces. But the plexi tapers towards the back the same way the fuselage does. Since the roll bar is slanted back, its top edge is tilted at an angle that matches the angle of the plexi, but the tilt does almost nothing to change the angle that the sides make to the plexi. > > I never noticed noticed this gap on other planes before, but it seems like it's designed in. I guess one solution would be to cut the forward edge of the window back further. Right now it is trimmed to put its forward edge 3/8" back from the forward face of the roll bar - as the plan require. > > Have other people seen the same effect? How have you dealt with it? > > -- > Tom Sargent > RV-6A > > ________________________________ Message 85 ____________________________________ Time: 08:24:45 PM PST US From: "GMC" Subject: RE: RV-List: Cockpit Lights --> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball" lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished) Thanks, Dick Dial Hi Dick Yes I like the eyeball lights, used three. Two on left side for flight instruments, one on right side with Vans internally lighted engine instruments. Left and right sides have separate rheostats. I located lights on forward side at base of roll bar on inside of the reinforcement plate. Made up a matching light mount plate and drilled/threaded flange of reinforcement (front angle) for tiny screws to hold light mounting plate. With two lights close to flight instruments you can aim each at different sections of panel and get good panel coverage, have no other RV to compare it to but I would think that if the lights were further aft or mounted lower they would light up too much area and cause distracting reflections. My instrument panel is black semi gloss and reflections are very minimal. IMHO it looks good and panel lighting is equivalent to or better than many certified aircraft. Would I do it that way again? The right side light has packed it in (wiring?) and will be repaired/replaced this weekend during annual inspection, so next time I will put two lights on right side for redundancy - same location. 6A slider - 220 hrs, about 6 at night - down for annual. George McNutt Langley B.C ________________________________ Message 86 ____________________________________ Time: 08:30:43 PM PST US From: Bobby Hester OhioValleyRVators@yahoogroups.com Subject: RV-List: AeroElectric Connection Seminar --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester Anyone wanting to attend a AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar near Nashville,TN please goto: http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/Nashville.html and register. The date has not been set yet. I'm guessing because not enough people have signed up. If your getting close to wiring your plane and have not heard of the AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar then go here and read all about it: http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/seminars.html I have nothing to do with this seminar, I'm just wanting a date to be set so I can attend! -- Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/ RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-) ________________________________ Message 87 ____________________________________ Time: 08:34:23 PM PST US From: "Eustace Bowhay" Subject: RV-List: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" Over the years I have followed the posts regarding the problems some have had with removing the clear plastic protection from the skins in the kits. The recent posts regarding corrosion problems between the plastic and the metal is the first I had heard about it. I will pass along my experience in this area. I received my fuselage kit for the 6A in January/97 and during the building process removed the plastic on the rivet lines only. Being aware of the possibility of the plastic setting up with time I would occasionally check to see if it was getting hard to remove. There was no evidence of this so left it on until it was ready to paint (Sept/03), it came off with no trouble, no tearing or excessive pulling required. The only thing I noticed was that if it was pulled back parallel to the skin there was a tendency for it to leave a trace of the adhesive on the skins. By pulling it 90 degrees to the metal it came of clean. Corrosion between the plastic and the skin was not thought of at this time. There wasn't a trace of corrosion, all the skins looked the same as the day they came from Van's. The fuselage kit was stored and build in my shop which is heated when required and we are in a area of low humidity. The plastic was removed with the shop temperature at 24C (75F). Van's says the new blue vinyl strengthens with time and should be removed if parts are to be stored for longer than a few weeks. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C ________________________________ Message 88 ____________________________________ Time: 08:34:23 PM PST US From: "Eustace Bowhay" Subject: RV-List: First flight decisons --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" In addition to all that has been said on this subject one of the most important items is the engine. If one is starting with a new or overhauled engine it is critical that ground running be kept to an absolute minimum. For me this would be a start-up and checking for any snags, clearing the snags if any then out to the runway and gone. The reason for this is the engine needs to be run at power settings high enough to seat the rings like 75% in cruise until the oil consumption stabilizes. Taxiing and running up and down the runway will glaze the cylinders and you will have a oil burner with the only cure being to pull the cylinders and deglaze and new rings. This mean that the first flight should be done by someone that is current on the RV and needs no practicing on the ground. Not trying to discourage anyone from doing the first flight but you have to be honest with yourself and ask if your prepared to go under these conditions. Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C. ________________________________ Message 89 ____________________________________ Time: 09:32:13 PM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" Well, I have a 9A but I had the same situation. I had to get a longer bolt. If I remember correctly when I asked Van's about it they said extra washers were okay if necessary. Dick Tasker, 90573 Fuselage Charlie & Tupper England wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England > >Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders: > >1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the >E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my >tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'. > >2. The instructions on DWG 5 for assembling the elevator horn weldments >to the hor. stab. bearing say that you should use no more than 3 >AN960-416's on each side of the bearing. All the parts of my tail assy >have fit with the prepunched holes lining up properly, but I need at >least 4 AN960-416's & an AN960-416L on one side & at least an additional >AN960-416L on the other side to avoid stressing the other hinge >brackets. Did anyone else go with the obvious solution of more washers & >a longer bolt? > >Tip for those like me without a convenient lathe to make the bearing >drill bushing (for drilling the horn weldments): I found a nylon >standoff at the hardware store that was 1/4" outside & #4 screw size >inside. I used whatever size drill from my drill index that was a snug >fit in the standoff. > >Thanks, > >Charlie >(hoping my wing skins haven't turned to powder sitting in the boxes over >the last 5 months) > > > > ________________________________ Message 90 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:17 PM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" Actually the previous answer was more correct. Depending in the LED they run with a voltage of 1.6V (red) to more than 3V (green, white) across it. Most garden variety LEDs like working with 20mA of current. So, if we start with 14V (with the engine running) and are using a red LED, that gives us 12.4V to drop across a resistor so the LED doesn't burn up. 12.4V / 0.02 A = 620 ohms (which is conveniently a standard value). If you don't want the resistor to burn up you better get one with a 1/2 W power capability since the power across the resistor is 12.4V * 0.02A = 0.248W. If you use a standard 1/4 W resistor, it will be running quite hot. If the LED is used as a warning light (off most of the time) then the 1/4W resistor is probably okay. If the LED is on most or a significant amount of the time, then the 1/2 W is necessary. If you have any additional puzzlement, just email me. Dick Tasker, 90573 Fuselage kempthornes wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes > >At 12:12 PM 11/20/2003 +1100, you wrote: > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: >> >>All you need is a resistor to limit the current into the LED. Most leds >>require around 20 ma, so for 12 Volts at 20 ma try a 720 ohm resistor >>for about 16ma of current (E=IR or Volts = Current in Amps X Resistance >>in ohms) >> >> > >For sure all you need is a resistor, mine has been working for over 150 >hours now. > >What we need to limit is the voltage across the LED I think. More than >about 5V blow them away. Since the LED draws about 20ma as you say, and >this value is at 5V then the resistance of the LED is: > >E=IR 5 = 0.020 * R therefore R = 5 / 0.020 or 250 ohms > >the completed circuit, in order to drop to 5V should be > >E=IR 12 = 0.020 * (250 + R) therefore R = 350 --- I think I >used a 470 ohms but maybe I guessed! Maybe the resistor is in parallel. > >This email is about as useless as some of the dull witted humor we see on >the rvlist. Maybe we need electric bob? > >K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne >RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now. >PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA) > > > > ________________________________ Message 91 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:24 PM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" Does this mean that you have given up on the SL40? If so, why? It appears that they plan to keep it around for a while and it is a great radio. UPSAT/GARMIN-AT have made clear that the GX series is toast but as far as I can tell the SL40/30 is in good graces. Of course, I MAY BE WRONG. I do not have direct experience with the ICOM. Looked at it but concluded that the SL40 was better ... this was some time ago. James > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe & Jan > Connell > Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2003 11:37 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Evaluation of ICOM IC-A200 Transceiver > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" > > Gentlemen (and ladies too), > > I had decided to install a UPS SL40 in my VFR RV-9A until > the recent Garmin buyout. I'm now contemplating an ICOM > IC-A200 instead. In reviewing the archives, I'm found only 4 > postings. > > Do any of you have experience and comments about this radio? > > Thanks, > > Joe Connell RV-9A N95JJ (finishing kit stage) > > ________________________________ Message 92 ____________________________________ Time: 10:26:13 PM PST US From: Michael McGee Subject: Re: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee Kevin- Your time frame is similar to mine (storing and building). What is your serial number (builder number)? Also, when did you order and receive your wing kit? My tail and wing kit were over a year apart. The tail is done but I've yet to pull any plastic from the wing parts other than the rear spars. There have been a few parts where there were some spots under the plastic. Mike McGee 90221 At 12:02 2003-11-18, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent > >Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a >complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.