Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:38 AM - F-821 Skin Fitting problem (Roberto Giusti)
2. 03:24 AM - Re: Cockpit Lights (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
3. 03:55 AM - Re: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's (Dana Overall)
4. 04:05 AM - Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly (Dana Overall)
5. 04:09 AM - Re: Cockpit Lights (John Mcmahon)
6. 04:56 AM - Cleated rivets - a record number?! (Phil N)
7. 05:43 AM - Re: Cockpit Lights (Pat Hatch)
8. 06:21 AM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (RV_8 Pilot)
9. 06:31 AM - Cup holders for RV-6(A) (Ralph E. Capen)
10. 06:36 AM - Re: AeroElectric Connection Seminar (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
11. 06:40 AM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Condrey, Bob (US SSA))
12. 06:54 AM - NEW PROJECT? (linn walters)
13. 07:16 AM - Re: NEW PROJECT? (BGCrook@aol.com)
14. 07:18 AM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Kevin Behrent)
15. 07:25 AM - Re: NEW PROJECT? (Glenn Brasch)
16. 07:30 AM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (C. Rabaut)
17. 07:52 AM - Re: NEW PROJECT? (Ron Walker)
18. 07:55 AM - Re: NEW PROJECT? (James E. Clark)
19. 08:00 AM - Re: Cup holders for RV-6(A) (Knicholas2@aol.com)
20. 08:01 AM - Re: Traveling to Alabama (Boyd Braem)
21. 08:15 AM - Re: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's (Eustace Bowhay)
22. 08:45 AM - Re: NEW PROJECT? (linn walters)
23. 08:53 AM - Re: NEW PROJECT? (Stein Bruch)
24. 09:20 AM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (Jim Oke)
25. 09:39 AM - Air/Oil Separator location (Charles Brame)
26. 09:41 AM - Re: First flight decisons (McFarland, Randy)
27. 09:52 AM - Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer (LarryRobertHelming)
28. 10:01 AM - Anti corrosion policy from Vans (Coers, John)
29. 10:18 AM - metal inner cooling plenum (Wheeler North)
30. 10:21 AM - Keep building WAS: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's (kempthornes)
31. 10:24 AM - Hotel available for Kittyhawk 2003 Centennial Celebrations. (Glenn S. Gordon)
32. 10:27 AM - Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer (kempthornes)
33. 11:24 AM - Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer (Phil N)
34. 11:38 AM - Re: Anti corrosion policy from Vans (Gene Gottschalk)
35. 12:10 PM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (RV_8 Pilot)
36. 12:12 PM - Re: AeroElectric NE Seminar (Charles Rowbotham)
37. 12:42 PM - Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly (Charlie & Tupper England)
38. 01:48 PM - Fw: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's (Elsa & Henry)
39. 02:16 PM - Re: FL tax question (Pat Hatch)
40. 02:42 PM - Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer (linn walters)
41. 02:55 PM - Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer (lucky macy)
42. 02:59 PM - FARs Question for Das Fed (Wheeler North)
43. 04:04 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Bill Dube)
44. 04:12 PM - Sales tax for big-ticket items (Jim Bower)
45. 04:44 PM - RV-4 front seat parachute? ()
46. 05:25 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Larry Bowen)
47. 05:44 PM - Re: Anti corrosion policy from Vans (Larry Rhea)
48. 05:45 PM - Re: Cockpit Lights (Edwin L (Ted) French)
49. 05:58 PM - Re: Keep building WAS: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's (Dana Overall)
50. 05:59 PM - Re: RV-4 front seat parachute? (linn walters)
51. 06:00 PM - Re: Lycoming model codes (Mike Robertson)
52. 06:21 PM - Re: RV-4 front seat parachute? (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
53. 07:02 PM - Re: LED Warning Lamps (Richard E. Tasker)
54. 07:13 PM - Re: Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges (Charlie & Tupper England)
55. 07:17 PM - Re: Sales tax for big-ticket items (Vince Himsl)
56. 07:18 PM - Re: Drill Size??? (Eustace Bowhay)
57. 07:18 PM - Re: First flight decisons (Eustace Bowhay)
58. 07:36 PM - Re: RV-4 front seat parachute? (C. Rabaut)
59. 07:41 PM - Fw: RV-4 front seat parachute? (C. Rabaut)
60. 07:49 PM - Re: RV-4 front seat parachute? (Doug Rozendaal)
61. 07:53 PM - AeroElectric Connection Seminar (j1j2h3@juno.com)
62. 07:53 PM - Re: Heat Muff (j1j2h3@juno.com)
63. 08:01 PM - Re: Sales tax for big-ticket items (kempthornes)
Message 1
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| Subject: | F-821 Skin Fitting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roberto Giusti" <roby@mail.com>
Listers,
I am having a hard time installing the F-821 top front skin on my RV8 QB.
If I align the top skin with the firewall the side edges don't end up
parallel to the side skins (F-820).
To get the sides parallel, the top skin needs to sit kind of crooked on the
firewall (the front right corner about 1/8" forward and the front left
corner 1/8" back).
It will be difficult to rivet it to the firewall flange like this and it
might create problems later when mounting the cowl (and it certainly doesn't
look good!).
Did anyone else come across this problem?
Thanks,
Roberto Giusti
RV-8 QB Fuselage
roby@mail.com
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
JR mine are located, one on each side, on the slider rail support, just
forward of the shoulder location. Good news is they light the panel very
well. Bad news is that before my recent panel overhaul, I had 2 of 5
instruments lit from the instrument. Lit instruments are much easier to
read than the flood lights. This looks and feels way better than the
eyeball lights. But the eyeballs work just fine. Either get lit
instruments or don't. But if you get some that are, and some that
aren't, you will clearly see the difference and wish you had all your
instruments lit internally.
IT annoyed me for a long time.
You can see exact locations of my eyeball lights here:
http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
Select Finishing/interior.
Mike
6A slider
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
Subject: RV-List: Cockpit Lights
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
Thanks,
Dick Dial
=
==
==
==
==
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>Van's says the new blue vinyl strengthens with time and should be removed
>if parts are to be stored for longer than a few weeks.
>
I'm probably going to strike at the hearts of the purists on the list but
here goes. Early on with the emp., man I used that soldering iron to
perfectly melt strips of the blue stuff leaving only rivet lines. Man, was
I ever doing it right!! Lo and behold someone sent me an email that burst
my bubble:-) You know, new builders, you are going to scotchbrite pad the
entire airplane before you paint it anyway. Next SNF, find an unpainted RV
and look along the rivet lines. If the person used a soldering iron, most
will have nice parallel scratch lines to the rivet lines, Hum...
I decided to devote my time to building the airplane, peeled the blue stuff
off and was as careful as possible (I'd do that anyway whether it was blue
or shiny) and pounded away. Since I have now started the painting process,
in may case your mileage may vary, I don't have any scratches a scotchbrite
and primer won't mend.
Just a thought.............
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment,
video game reviews, and more here.
http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx
Message 4
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
>Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders:
>
>1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the
>E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my
>tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'.
>
I certainly did not have that issue you envision. I'm betting the
difference lies in the fact those two spars do not touch one another as the
rivet lines in final assembly are actually 3/4" apart with one facing aft
and one facing forward.
>2. The instructions on DWG 5 for assembling the elevator horn weldments
>to the hor. stab. bearing say that you should use no more than 3
>AN960-416's on each side of the bearing. All the parts of my tail assy
>. Did anyone else go with the obvious solution of more washers &
>a longer bolt?
I've seen some people just make two spacers.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
online games and music with a high-speed Internet connection! Prices start
at less than $1 a day average. https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary
by service area.)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
Dick
Hope this helps
John (RV6 near paint)
GMC wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
>lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
>people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
>locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
> Thanks,
> Dick Dial
>
>
>Hi Dick
>
>Yes I like the eyeball lights, used three. Two on left side for flight
>instruments, one on right side with Vans internally lighted engine
>instruments. Left and right sides have separate rheostats.
>
>I located lights on forward side at base of roll bar on inside of the
>reinforcement plate.
>Made up a matching light mount plate and drilled/threaded flange of
>reinforcement (front angle) for tiny screws to hold light mounting plate.
>
>With two lights close to flight instruments you can aim each at different
>sections of panel and get good panel coverage, have no other RV to compare
>it to but I would think that if the lights were further aft or mounted lower
>they would light up too much area and cause distracting reflections. My
>instrument panel is black semi gloss and reflections are very minimal. IMHO
>it looks good and panel lighting is equivalent to or better than many
>certified aircraft.
>
>Would I do it that way again? The right side light has packed it in
>(wiring?) and will be repaired/replaced this weekend during annual
>inspection, so next time I will put two lights on right side for
>redundancy - same location.
>
> 6A slider - 220 hrs, about 6 at night - down for annual.
>
>George McNutt
>Langley B.C
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Cleated rivets - a record number?! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
I wonder what the record is for cleated rivets in a single part? Heh,
heh.....
Phil
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cockpit Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Question for those who have used the eyeball lights...how well do you think
they would work as map lights instead of instrument flood lights? Are they
bright enough for this purpose do you think?
Thanks.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cockpit Lights
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
> JR mine are located, one on each side, on the slider rail support, just
> forward of the shoulder location. Good news is they light the panel very
> well. Bad news is that before my recent panel overhaul, I had 2 of 5
> instruments lit from the instrument. Lit instruments are much easier to
> read than the flood lights. This looks and feels way better than the
> eyeball lights. But the eyeballs work just fine. Either get lit
> instruments or don't. But if you get some that are, and some that
> aren't, you will clearly see the difference and wish you had all your
> instruments lit internally.
>
> IT annoyed me for a long time.
>
> You can see exact locations of my eyeball lights here:
> http://www.mstewart.net/michael/rv/index.htm
> Select Finishing/interior.
> Mike
> 6A slider
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J. R. Dial
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Cockpit Lights
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
> lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
> people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
> locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
> Thanks,
> Dick Dial
>
>
> > ==
> ==
> ==
> ==
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Those who are having corrosion problems, I have to wonder if your
shop/storage area is *really* dry. Do you keep the humidity low? How? I
use a dehumidifier in my shop (had to being near Houston). Are you sure
you're not getting a little condensation every morning with temp swings?
Mine cost ~$150. Pretty small price compared to repurchase of metal pieces.
It's just difficult for me to imagine corrosion under vinyl in even a
remotely dry shop. None at all seen on my metal. Built an -8 in a little
over 3 yrs - 80313, started in '97. I had a fair amount of metal left in my
scrap box and I never noticed corrosion after 3,4 5 yrs. on pieces with
vinyl or without, Alclad and not.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
>Kevin-
>Your time frame is similar to mine (storing and building). What is your
>serial number (builder number)?
>
>Also, when did you order and receive your wing kit? My tail and wing kit
>were over a year apart. The tail is done but I've yet to pull any plastic
>from the wing parts other than the rear spars. There have been a few parts
>where there were some spots under the plastic.
>
>Mike McGee
>90221
>
>At 12:02 2003-11-18, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent
><kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
> >
> >Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
> >complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment,
video game reviews, and more here.
http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx
Message 9
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| Subject: | Cup holders for RV-6(A) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
There is a brief flurry on Toyota cupholders in the archives back in '97.
Anyone got any pictures of these things so I can see how bad I want one of these?
Ralph Capen
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric Connection Seminar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Hi Bobby-
That's just 'cause we all went last January! Nuckolls really packed 'em in
last year and it was another of those "best $$$ spent on the plane" deals.
Highly recommended. People had flown in from as far away as LA (lower Alabama)
and Wisconsin.
As an aside, our 1st day seminar was on February 1, and as we went on our
first break that morning, Columbia was disintegrating over Texas. As sobering
as
this was, it was interesting to see how a roomful of aviation professionals
and fans absorbed and dealt with the event. Bob handled it graciously and
briefly, then continued to give us all our money's worth. If you go for no other
reason than to experience his dedication to educating others, then that's
reason enough. Hope you get a class arranged!
Mark - Columbia, TN do not archive
In a message dated 11/19/03 10:40:45 PM Central Standard Time,
bhester@hopkinsville.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
> Anyone wanting to attend a AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar near
> Nashville,TN please goto:
> http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/Nashville.html and register. The
> date has not been set yet. I'm guessing because not enough people have
> signed up.
Message 11
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| Subject: | New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)" <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Not sure why my first post didn't work. I was trying to relate the
specifics of the RV-10 manual reference for the plastic removal. It
located in paragraph 5M and simply says that the vinyl should be removed
within a few weeks because the adhesive strengthens with time.
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: John [mailto:n1cxo320@salidaco.com]
Subject: Re: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's?
--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
fL34M34r3-K9348hJNDU
JSDMNF
I couldn't agree more !
=
==
direct advertising on the Matronics Forums.
==
==
==
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I just bounced into Van's website http://www.vansaircraft.com/index.htm
and SURPRISE there's a link to RV-10, RV-11. Now what the heck is an
RV-11??? Anyone have the real skinny??
Linn Walters
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: NEW PROJECT? |
--> RV-List message posted by: BGCrook@aol.com
It's a single place moto-glider I believe.
Bryon Crook
RV-9A Emp.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent <kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
Mike,
My serial # is 90126. I received my wing kit several weeks after my emp. I
bought my kit when only the emp was available, but was early enough to get the
wings as soon as they started shipping. My entire wing kit did not come all at
once. If I recall, it took several seeks for all the bits and pieces to arrive.
I would check those spots very closely. Some of my skins had what appeared to be
little spots, hardly visible through the plastic, but when a scotch brite pad and
a little alumiprep was applied, it not only was pitted, but in some cases a layer
was removed and you can see the edges. Note, this was all done under the watchful
eye of a FAA inspecter. This really raised his eyebrow!
Michael McGee wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
>
> Kevin-
> Your time frame is similar to mine (storing and building). What is your
> serial number (builder number)?
>
> Also, when did you order and receive your wing kit? My tail and wing kit
> were over a year apart. The tail is done but I've yet to pull any plastic
> from the wing parts other than the rear spars. There have been a few parts
> where there were some spots under the plastic.
>
> Mike McGee
> 90221
>
> At 12:02 2003-11-18, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent <kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
> >
> >Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
> >complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
>
--
Kevin Behrent
Cascadia Software, Inc.
3600 Port of Tacoma Road
Suite 210
Tacoma, WA 98424
Wrk: (253) 896-4000 x104
Fax: (253) 896-3680
kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: NEW PROJECT? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
It says on the website what it is.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: NEW PROJECT?
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I just bounced into Van's website http://www.vansaircraft.com/index.htm
> and SURPRISE there's a link to RV-10, RV-11. Now what the heck is an
> RV-11??? Anyone have the real skinny??
> Linn Walters
> do not archive
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Bob,
I think you are correct... but you've forgot about the
"S2v2aW4silbhjhgdgfnjyse6576f9*(&%$%
3" factor!
Also, we really should issue the secret decoder rings to others on the list
so they can follow this thread. :-}
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Condrey, Bob (US SSA) <bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Condrey, Bob (US SSA)"
<bob.condrey@baesystems.com>
>
>
S2V2aW4sIA0KIA0KSSBqdXN0IGNoZWNrZWQgbXkgUlYtMTAgbWFudWFsIGFnYWluIGFuZCBpdCBz
>
aW1wbHkgc2F5cyB0aGF0IHRoZSBhZGhlc2l2ZSBzdHJlbmd0aGVucyB3aXRoIGFnZSBhbmQgc2hv
>
dWxkIGJlIHJlbW92ZWQgd2l0aGluIGEgZmV3IHdlZWtzLiAgVGhlIHNwZWNpZmljIHJlZmVyZW5j
>
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dCB0aGlzDQoJXy09ICAgeWVhcidzIFRlcnJpZmljIEZyZWUgR2lmdHMhIFRoYW5rIHlvdSBmb3Ig
>
eW91ciBnZW5lcm91cw0KCV8tPSAgIHN1cHBvcnQhICAgIC1NYXR0IERyYWxsZSwgTGlzdCBBZG1p
>
bi4NCglfLT0NCglfLT0gICAgICAgICAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9jb250cmli
>
dXRpb24NCglfLT0NCglfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
>
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PQ0KCV8tPSAgICAgICAgICAgICAgLSBUaGUg
>
UlYtTGlzdCBFbWFpbCBGb3J1bSAtDQoJXy09IFRoaXMgZm9ydW0gaXMgc3BvbnNvcmVkIGVudGly
>
ZWx5IHRocm91Z2ggdGhlIENvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbnMNCglfLT0gb2YgTGlzdCBtZW1iZXJzLiAgWW91
>
J2xsIG5ldmVyIHNlZSBiYW5uZXIgYWRzIG9yIGFueSBvdGhlcg0KCV8tPSBmb3JtIG9mIGRpcmVj
>
dCBhZHZlcnRpc2luZyBvbiB0aGUgTWF0cm9uaWNzIEZvcnVtcy4NCglfLT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
>
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
>
PQ0KCV8tPSAhISBORVcgISENCglfLT0gQUxMIE5FVyBMSVNUIENIQVQhISBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1h
>
dHJvbmljcy5jb20vY2hhdA0KCV8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
>
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQoJXy09IExpc3QgUmVsYXRlZCBJ
>
bmZvcm1hdGlvbg0KCV8tPSAgUG9zdCBNZXNzYWdlOiAgIHJ2LWxpc3RAbWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbQ0K
>
CV8tPSAgVU4vU1VCU0NSSUJFOiAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9zdWJzY3JpcHRp
>
b24NCglfLT0gIExpc3QgRkFROiAgICAgICBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJvbmljcy5jb20vRkFRL1JW
>
LUxpc3QuaHRtDQoJXy09ICBTZWFyY2ggRW5naW5lOiAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29t
>
L3NlYXJjaA0KCV8tPSAgNy1EYXkgQnJvd3NlOiAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9i
>
cm93c2UvcnYtbGlzdA0KCV8tPSAgQnJvd3NlIERpZ2VzdHM6IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9uaWNz
>
LmNvbS9kaWdlc3QvcnYtbGlzdA0KCV8tPSAgTGl2ZSBMaXN0IENoYXQ6IGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0
>
cm9uaWNzLmNvbS9jaGF0DQoJXy09ICBBcmNoaXZlczogICAgICAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25p
>
Y3MuY29tL2FyY2hpdmVzDQoJXy09ICBQaG90byBTaGFyZTogICAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRyb25p
>
Y3MuY29tL3Bob3Rvc2hhcmUNCglfLT0gIExpc3QgU3BlY2lmaWM6ICBodHRwOi8vd3d3Lm1hdHJv
>
bmljcy5jb20vcnYtbGlzdA0KCV8tPSAgT3RoZXIgTGlzdHM6ICAgIGh0dHA6Ly93d3cubWF0cm9u
>
aWNzLmNvbS9lbWFpbGxpc3RzDQoJXy09ICBUcm91YmxlIFJlcG9ydCAgaHR0cDovL3d3dy5tYXRy
>
b25pY3MuY29tL3Ryb3VibGUtcmVwb3J0DQoJXy09ICBDb250cmlidXRpb25zOiAgaHR0cDovL3d3
>
dy5tYXRyb25pY3MuY29tL2NvbnRyaWJ1dGlvbg0KCV8tPT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09
>
PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09PT09DQoJDQoJDQoJ
> DQoJDQoJDQoNCg==
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: NEW PROJECT? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Walker" <ron@walker.net>
Looks like they updated their web site already -- the RV11 is gonna be a
motoglider!
I was gonna suggest a 4 seat tandem aircraft muck like the relationship
between the 7 and 8 ;o)
Ron
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
It is Van's (the man) *personal* motorglider project. Click on the link and
he tells the whole story.
He has been tinkering around with this for a year or two now ... on his "own
time" (at home I think).
He makes it clear that this is NOT a current Van's Aircraft undertaking.
James
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of linn walters
> Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 9:56 AM
> To: RV-LIST
> Subject: RV-List: NEW PROJECT?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> I just bounced into Van's website http://www.vansaircraft.com/index.htm
> and SURPRISE there's a link to RV-10, RV-11. Now what the heck is an
> RV-11??? Anyone have the real skinny??
> Linn Walters
> do not archive
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cup holders for RV-6(A) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
In a message dated 11/20/2003 6:32:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
recapen@earthlink.net writes:
<< There is a brief flurry on Toyota cupholders >>
In my RV9A I built a center consule, similar to the one advertised on the
Vans Airforce web site. I then made a trip to my local marine store and bought
a
removable, gimbled cup holder that screwed right onto the consule. Very cool.
Kim Nicholas
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Traveling to Alabama |
--> RV-List message posted by: Boyd Braem <bcbraem@comcast.net>
You young guys probably don't remember, but the AD-1 Skyraider (also
designed by Ed Heinemann) was an awesome plane--a prop job in the jet
age--you could load so much crap on it and it would blissfully fly
away--it was almost unbelievable. I sincerely believe that if we Navy
rats would have been more resourceful, we could have changed the
Earth's orbit with a couple of AD-1s and a good chain. When that
W-3350(?) kicked on, you knew it was going to be a good day The T-2
Buckeye, after its primary trainer days, was used as a "spin
trainer"--you either loved it or you hated it, but what a blast that
was--upright, inverted, sideways, whatever--I believe it was mandatory
(good word) every 2 yrs for Navy pilots.
Anyway, I'll shut up, now---do not archive.
Boyd.
On Wednesday, November 19, 2003, at 09:10 PM, Jerry Isler wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
>
> Alan,
> If you want to see something impressive, cruise up to Troy, Alabama
> (KTOI)
> and drop in on the Wiley Sanders (of Wiley Sanders Truck Lines fame)
> hangers. It's less than 30 miles north of where you will be and is one
> of
> the most impressive personal collections of aircraft you will see.
> Fellow
> lister Craig Hiers and myself went there last Saturday to see what was
> new.
> This guy has the following:
>
> Two B-25's and one each of the following: P-51, T-28, L-19 Bird Dog,
> DC-3,
> AD-1 Skyraider, Beech 18, T-6, Stearman Biplane, Gulfstream II, Cessna
> Citation, S2 tracker, and the second T-2 Buckeye jet trainer in
> civilian
> hands. The T-2 was fresh out of rebuild and was absolutely beautiful in
> gleaming white with orange trim.
>
> There was also a Harmon Rocket and another Gulfstream II in the
> hangers that
> belonged to one of Sanders partners. I probably left something off the
> list.
>
> We were made welcome and were allowed free access to all the aircraft.
>
> It humbles me to see how the poor folks live........
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 N455J
> Donalsonville, GA
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
>>
>> I'm planning a trip to Enterprise Alabama to visit my brother-in-law
>> over
> Thanksgiving. I plan on heading down on Saturday and staying about a
> week
> depending on weather. Anyone got any advice on leaving a my -8 at the
> enterprise airport, or an empty hanger there? I have not had a chance
> to
> call the FBO but plan to do that tomorrow. Anyone have any must see
> sight
> while I'm in LA (lower Alabama)
>>
>> Thanks
>> Alan Kritzman
>> RV-8
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
What worked for me was to use a small light soldering iron with a round
point. I polished the tip then marked the plastic using a metal straight
edge as a guide. The secret seems to be in the speed you move the iron along
the plastic, I found that you don't want to melt through to the metal just
score the plastic.I run two lines about an inch apart, sometimes the score
marks are not quite deep enough and the plastic will start to tear, in this
case just go back with the iron an lightly score again. This has worked well
for me, no marks on the metal.
I like to leave the plastic on to prevent scratches during the long building
process.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay,B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> >
> >Van's says the new blue vinyl strengthens with time and should be removed
> >if parts are to be stored for longer than a few weeks.
> >
>
>
> I'm probably going to strike at the hearts of the purists on the list but
> here goes. Early on with the emp., man I used that soldering iron to
> perfectly melt strips of the blue stuff leaving only rivet lines. Man,
was
> I ever doing it right!! Lo and behold someone sent me an email that burst
> my bubble:-) You know, new builders, you are going to scotchbrite pad the
> entire airplane before you paint it anyway. Next SNF, find an unpainted
RV
> and look along the rivet lines. If the person used a soldering iron, most
> will have nice parallel scratch lines to the rivet lines, Hum...
>
> I decided to devote my time to building the airplane, peeled the blue
stuff
> off and was as careful as possible (I'd do that anyway whether it was blue
> or shiny) and pounded away. Since I have now started the painting
process,
> in may case your mileage may vary, I don't have any scratches a
scotchbrite
> and primer won't mend.
>
> Just a thought.............
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com
> do not archive
>
> Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment
equipment,
> video game reviews, and more here.
> http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: NEW PROJECT? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Glenn Brasch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
>
>It says on the website what it is.....
>
You're right. The link on the top right just took me to the -10.
Didn't look far enough down the page. Thank you!
Linn
(DNA below)
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>To: "RV-LIST" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: NEW PROJECT?
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>
>>I just bounced into Van's website http://www.vansaircraft.com/index.htm
>>and SURPRISE there's a link to RV-10, RV-11. Now what the heck is an
>>RV-11??? Anyone have the real skinny??
>>Linn Walters
>>do not archive
>>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
don't mean to sound fececious here, but there is really a very lengthy
explanation of it on the very website you mention....
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of linn walters
Subject: RV-List: NEW PROJECT?
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I just bounced into Van's website http://www.vansaircraft.com/index.htm
and SURPRISE there's a link to RV-10, RV-11. Now what the heck is an
RV-11??? Anyone have the real skinny??
Linn Walters
do not archive
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Having read the various "my wing skins corroded under the plastic covering"
horror stories over the past few days, one has to suspect there is
dissimilar metal (or galvanic) action occurring to attack the alclad
surface. Situations such as described below could reasonably be caused if
flecks of foreign matter (such as iron filings or grit) became lodged in or
under the plastic sheeting and the usual dissimilar metals exchange of
electrons, etc. occurred to oxidize the surface.
The plastic covering seems more to be put in place to prevent physical
damage to the sheets (surface scratches from handling) rather than act as an
impermeable membrane to keep moisture away from the surface. A small
puncture cause by a piece of iron grit or similar would actually let
moisture enter under the plastic which would then hold it in place against
the alclad which would promote dissimilar metal effects. Parts that come
without the covering would stay generally drier and simple handling would
tend to remove any bits of foreign matter or shift them around on the
surface.
Introduction of foreign matter could occurred at the aluminums mill where
the plastic covering was applied or during later handling or processing of
the material. Unpacking wing skins and flopping them down on a workbench or
shop floor contaminated by metal filings would be one way to cause this.
Hopefully Vans has good house-keeping practices in place in their shop and
storage facilities as well to prevent this sort of thing occurring.
Looking at the problem from this standpoint, early removal of the plastic
coating when inventorying a kit might be the best course of action. I used
the soldering iron along the rivets lines technique myself and pulled the
bulk of the plastic just before scotchbriting and painting my -6A, a
complication I should probably have skipped. The plastic was on my wing
skins for about three years with no noticeable ill effects.
A close metallurgical analysis of some of the damaged sheets should be able
to determine the cause. Hopefully if Vans can get hold of some samples this
can be sorted out.
Jim Oke
RV-6A C-GKGZ
Winnipeg, MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Behrent" <kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent
<kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
>
> Mike,
>
> My serial # is 90126. I received my wing kit several weeks after my emp.
I
> bought my kit when only the emp was available, but was early enough to get
the
> wings as soon as they started shipping. My entire wing kit did not come
all at
> once. If I recall, it took several seeks for all the bits and pieces to
arrive.
>
> I would check those spots very closely. Some of my skins had what appeared
to be
> little spots, hardly visible through the plastic, but when a scotch brite
pad and
> a little alumiprep was applied, it not only was pitted, but in some cases
a layer
> was removed and you can see the edges. Note, this was all done under the
watchful
> eye of a FAA inspecter. This really raised his eyebrow!
>
> Michael McGee wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Michael McGee <jmpcrftr@teleport.com>
> >
> > Kevin-
> > Your time frame is similar to mine (storing and building). What is your
> > serial number (builder number)?
> >
> > Also, when did you order and receive your wing kit? My tail and wing
kit
> > were over a year apart. The tail is done but I've yet to pull any
plastic
> > from the wing parts other than the rear spars. There have been a few
parts
> > where there were some spots under the plastic.
> >
> > Mike McGee
> > 90221
> >
> > At 12:02 2003-11-18, you wrote:
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Behrent
<kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com>
> > >
> > >Just got started on my wing kit and found that I will have to buy a
> > >complete set of wing skins before I get started due to corrosion.
> >
>
> --
> Kevin Behrent
> Cascadia Software, Inc.
> 3600 Port of Tacoma Road
> Suite 210
> Tacoma, WA 98424
> Wrk: (253) 896-4000 x104
> Fax: (253) 896-3680
> kbehrent@cascadiasoftware.com
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Air/Oil Separator location |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Brame <charleyb@earthlink.net>
I plan to install an air/oil separator on my RV-6A firewall and drain
the separator into a small removable container. I want to put the
separator near the bottom of the firewall with enough space to put the
drain container below the separator. Does it matter where the separator
is located (high or low) with regard to the crankcase vent exit which is
high on the rear of the engine?
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | First flight decisons |
--> RV-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Does this caution apply to engines that are run in to some extent at the
factory?
Thx for the word of caution, I had not read that anywhere.
R
-----Original Message-----
From: Eustace Bowhay [mailto:ebowhay@jetstream.net]
Subject: RV-List: First flight decisons
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
In addition to all that has been said on this subject one of the most
important items is the engine.
If one is starting with a new or overhauled engine it is critical that
ground running be kept to an absolute minimum. For me this would be a
start-up and checking for any snags, clearing the snags if any then out to
the runway and gone.
The reason for this is the engine needs to be run at power settings high
enough to seat the rings like 75% in cruise until the oil consumption
stabilizes.
Taxiing and running up and down the runway will glaze the cylinders and you
will have a oil burner with the only cure being to pull the cylinders and
deglaze and new rings.
This mean that the first flight should be done by someone that is current on
the RV and needs no practicing on the ground.
Not trying to discourage anyone from doing the first flight but you have to
be honest with yourself and ask if your prepared to go under these
conditions.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Seems that neither Home Depot and Lowes Hardware have a product called
Ospho. Where did you buy it Linn?
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
On Finish Kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: 4130 parts showing rust through primer
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Steven Eberhart wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
> >
> >THe plane is an RV-8 that was delivered before Van's switched to powder
> >coating the 4130 steel parts. We have had to clean up rust that was
> >starting to show through the elevator and rudder brackets. It was like
> >the primer was porous and didn't seal against moisture. The paint used
> >was RM DP-40. THere seems to be a distinct difference between the RM DP
> >primer and the PPG DP primer. I cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel
> >on the Dremel and primed with NAPA rattle can self etching primer and
> >then everything was primed with the same PPG DP-40LF that the entire
> >plane was primed with. Color coats were PPG Concept.
> >
> >Steve Eberhart
> >Finishing up the paint job on RV-8 N49KS and building RV-7A N14SE
> >
> Well, I think I got it right. Preparation. Here's what I do, and it
> seems to work in the FL humidity.
> 1. Buy some Ospho from your local hardware store.
> 2. Let the steel get a little surface rust. Ospho works best when there
> isn't shiny steel. No, I don't know why.
> 3. Brush on the Ospho. If you HAVE to spray it, do so in well
> ventilated area and wear a RESPIRATOR. Not a paper mask.
> 4. Let it dry over a day or so. It will look real ugly with rough
> black crap all over it. Lightly sand off the ugly black crap.
> 5. Repeat step 3.
> 6. If you get more ugly black crap, do step 4. If not prime with paint
> of your choice.
>
> Ospho has acid in it (phosphoric, I think .... read the label. Well,
> read it anyway. It also has a dissoved plastic in it that will coat and
> seal the steel. the plastic is not durable so you must prime.
>
> Now, for what Steve's problem was. He's right. Primer is porous. It
> serves as a base to help make paint stick better. Paint doesn't stick
> to bare metal very well, and primer doesn't keep the moisture out.
> Together, however, they're a real good team. Steve didn't get the paint
> on soon enough. Been there, done that, and stripped it all off to start
> over. If you just try and kill the rust and paint over it though, it
> will come back later on.
>
> No, I'm not a paint expert, and don't play one on TV, but I've painted
> enough to know what has worked for me in the past. Ospho will also work
> on aluminum. I have test pieces 20 years old with good paint still on it.
>
> I also caution against mixing types of primer and paint. If you're
> going to use urethane paint, use urethane primer. Same with acrylic and
> the other flavors.
>
> Hope this helps!
> Linn Walters
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Anti corrosion policy from Vans |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Coers, John" <John.Coers@fkilogistex.com>
Perhaps I'm losing it, but I can't get past the issue of corrosion under the
plastic on new parts. For about three months now, I have had 3 pieces of
scrap laying in the bed of my pickup truck in an attempt to win an argument
with Jim Sears. I coated one piece of scrap with Zinc Chromate, another
piece with Napa Zincrom and the third piece was left bare. Not only have I
not found any corrosion on the coated pieces, but the bare piece looks just
fine as well. I don't understand how aluminum covered with the vinyl from
Vans could start corroding while sitting on a shelf awaiting use. Perhaps if
the shelf it was sitting on was made of salt and the air was 90% saturated
then perhaps I could see it. But, I'm having trouble seeing covered aluminum
corroding when you can go to your local airport and see bare aluminum
aircraft sitting there doing just fine. The only way I can see corrosion on
new plastic covered skins would be for the skins to be covered in plastic
while wet, even then the alclad should have protected them. My biggest
concern right now is that I'm about to receive my wing kit and I'm trying to
figure out what I should do for storage. Plastic - on or off?
John Coers
90780
Message 29
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| Subject: | metal inner cooling plenum |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
1) Would you do it again?
Yes
2) Notice better cooling?
Not so much but I never ran without it. I can now run the engine without
cowl, I have no upwards load on the cowl system and the cowl is much easier
to get on and off as my inlet gap seals do not overlap, they edge butt to
adaptors I made attached to the plenum. The key is to not lose volume, ie
get the lid close to the inside of the top cowl as this reservoir needs to
be as big as possible.
3) Increased speed?
Won't effect speed unless you change the inlets
Message 30
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| Subject: | Keep building WAS: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 06:54 AM 11/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>I decided to devote my time to building the airplane................
Best advice to first time builders is to concentrate on building the
airplane. Craftsmanship, certainly but don't get so distracted that you
don't ever have a first flight!
Get to work!
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Hotel available for Kittyhawk 2003 Centennial Celebrations. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn S. Gordon" <ggordon@psiatms.com>
Please contact me if you would like more information on the hotel room I
have available.
-Glenn Gordon
ggordon@psiatms.com
847-955-0095
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 11:53 AM 11/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> > Paint doesn't stick
> > to bare metal very well
unless you spill some on the metal!
I sprayed some Cessna orange paint on a spot (bare aluminum) on my RV6a and
had a hell of a time getting it back off. It even resisted paint remover.
hal
Message 33
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| Subject: | 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
The DoitBest hardware store carries it:
http://doitbest.com/shop/dept.asp?paging_code=4&dept_id=3622
More data at:
http://www.ospho.com/
Here's the description from their website.
OSPHO Rust Primer (Skybryte)
A metal treatment or primer that converts rust to an inert, hard
substance that can be painted. Also can be used on new or clean metal to
make subsequent paint coatings more effective in controlling rust.
Recommended for use under oil-base primers and paints. Test a small area
before using under epoxy or latex paints. Equally effective for exterior
and interior work. Covers approximately 600 sq. ft. per gallon and
normally requires overnight drying before topcoating. Contains
phosphoric acid. Brushes and spray equipment can be cleaned with water.
Avoid spreading OSPHO on adjacent areas such as painted surfaces,
concrete, masonry, and stonework. If splashing occurs, flush immediately
with water. Available in quart or gallon.
Phil
> Seems that neither Home Depot and Lowes Hardware have a
> product called Ospho. Where did you buy it Linn?
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Anti corrosion policy from Vans |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gene Gottschalk <geneg@sled.gsfc.nasa.gov>
I've seen several pieces corrode sitting on the shelf waiting for me to get
to 'em. Don't know why, just that they did. After that I stripped all the
plastic off. Haven't seen it since.
Gene Gottschalk
RV-6A N700RV
At 01:03 PM 11/20/2003 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Coers, John" <John.Coers@fkilogistex.com>
>
>Perhaps I'm losing it, but I can't get past the issue of corrosion under the
>plastic on new parts. For about three months now, I have had 3 pieces of
>scrap laying in the bed of my pickup truck in an attempt to win an argument
>with Jim Sears. I coated one piece of scrap with Zinc Chromate, another
>piece with Napa Zincrom and the third piece was left bare. Not only have I
>not found any corrosion on the coated pieces, but the bare piece looks just
>fine as well. I don't understand how aluminum covered with the vinyl from
>Vans could start corroding while sitting on a shelf awaiting use. Perhaps if
>the shelf it was sitting on was made of salt and the air was 90% saturated
>then perhaps I could see it. But, I'm having trouble seeing covered aluminum
>corroding when you can go to your local airport and see bare aluminum
>aircraft sitting there doing just fine. The only way I can see corrosion on
>new plastic covered skins would be for the skins to be covered in plastic
>while wet, even then the alclad should have protected them. My biggest
>concern right now is that I'm about to receive my wing kit and I'm trying to
>figure out what I should do for storage. Plastic - on or off?
>
>John Coers
>90780
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
FROM_HAS_UNDERLINE_NUMS
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
"...Note, this was all done under the watchful
eye of a FAA inspecter. This really raised his eyebrow!"
Oh, well, in that case....
Sorry - I couldn't resist taking the shot.
BTW - you do know what obligations/responsibilities the FAA has in
construction of an amateur built kit plane? The FAA looked at mine once -
when I requested the airworthiness certificate.
Bryan Jones -8
Pearland, Texas
do not archive
Say goodbye to busy signals and slow downloads with a high-speed Internet
connection! Prices start at less than $1 a day average.
https://broadband.msn.com (Prices may vary by service area.)
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric NE Seminar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Just a reminder that EAA Chapter 334 is sponsoring Bob's North East seminar
on March 6 & 7 at Groton, CT. We have special hotel rates in the area.
If you have any questions give me a call.
Chuck Rowbotham
EAA 334
RV-8A
>From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: AeroElectric Connection Seminar
>Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 09:35:28 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Hi Bobby-
>
>That's just 'cause we all went last January! Nuckolls really packed 'em in
>last year and it was another of those "best $$$ spent on the plane" deals.
>Highly recommended. People had flown in from as far away as LA (lower
>Alabama)
>and Wisconsin.
>
>As an aside, our 1st day seminar was on February 1, and as we went on our
>first break that morning, Columbia was disintegrating over Texas. As
>sobering as
>this was, it was interesting to see how a roomful of aviation professionals
>and fans absorbed and dealt with the event. Bob handled it graciously and
>briefly, then continued to give us all our money's worth. If you go for no
>other
>reason than to experience his dedication to educating others, then that's
>reason enough. Hope you get a class arranged!
>
>Mark - Columbia, TN do not archive
>
>In a message dated 11/19/03 10:40:45 PM Central Standard Time,
>bhester@hopkinsville.net writes:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> >
> > Anyone wanting to attend a AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar near
> > Nashville,TN please goto:
> > http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/Nashville.html and register. The
> > date has not been set yet. I'm guessing because not enough people have
> > signed up.
>
>
Gift-shop online from the comfort of home at MSN Shopping! No crowds, free
parking. http://shopping.msn.com
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-7 E-607PP, E-606PP, & elevator center pivot assembly |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Dana Overall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
>
>>From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
>>Questions for you -7 & -8 fully prepunched tail builders:
>>
>>1. Anyone else have an E-607PP trim tab spar that tapers faster than the
>>E-606PP trim spar in the elevator? The forward, outboard corner of my
>>tab is thinner by about 1/8" than the elevator where they 'meet'.
>>
>>
>>
>
>I certainly did not have that issue you envision. I'm betting the
>difference lies in the fact those two spars do not touch one another as the
>rivet lines in final assembly are actually 3/4" apart with one facing aft
>and one facing forward.
>
snipped
Dana Overall
Understand that the spars aren't the same height. But in my case, the
trim tab thickness on the outboard end (~midpoint of the elevator),
where it is adjacent to the elevator, is tapered at a different rate
from trailing edge to the spar. My elevator is about 1/8" thicker than
the trim tab at that distance from the trailing edge.
Charlie
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> What worked for me was to use a small light soldering iron with a round
> point. I polished the tip then marked the plastic using a metal straight
> edge as a guide. The secret seems to be in the speed you move the iron
along
> the plastic, I found that you don't want to melt through to the metal just
> score the plastic.I run two lines about an inch apart, sometimes the score
> marks are not quite deep enough and the plastic will start to tear, in
this
> case just go back with the iron an lightly score again. This has worked
well
> for me, no marks on the metal.
>
> I like to leave the plastic on to prevent scratches during the long
building
> process.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay,B.C.
That's exactly what I did! I used my temperature controlled soldering
station with the round tip. I practiced on the scrap pieces that were packed
in the kit to get the right technique. and it worked fine,-no scratches. My
skins had the white plastic that "sticks like s**t to a blanket" and
required much "elbow grease" to remove the adhesive residue after getting
the stuff off. One hell-of-a-job!
Cheers!!----Henry Hore
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: FL tax question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Ken,
You need to call the Florida Department of Revenue and ask them. The fact
that you are from a tax-exempt state (MA) could actually complicate things
because the test here is that if you have paid some kind of sales tax
previously this exempts you from FL sales tax (as long as it was over 6
months ago). In reality, I think they go by the date of registration--for
cars or airplanes--so if it has been more than 6 months since your airplane
was registered, my bet is that you will be OK. But check with the Dept of
Rev, nice folks, actually!
Anyway, no other tax is due in FL on airplanes, no use, luxury, or personal
property tax here!
Good luck, and welcome to FL (temp is 73 as I write this). Stop in anytime,
as I recall, I bought one of my engine instruments from you a few years ago!
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7 QB (Building)
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: FL tax question
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
>
> Hi Pat,
>
> Thanks for the info. FWIW, I'll be in Marion County. That makes sense
> to me (though I'd be pissed if I'd paid within the last six months). So,
> if sales tax isn't applicable, does Florida assess any sort of
> luxury/use tax for the 'privilege' of owning and operating an airplane
> in the state?
>
> Here's a twist: what if I'm coming from a state, like, say MA, who
> abolished sales & use taxes on aircraft just in time for me to avoid it
> entirely. Will I have to show proof of having paid somewhere to be
> exempt in FL?
>
> Hope to see you down there in sunny FL early next year. I should be at
> the RV flyin at Lakeland in January.
>
> Regards,
> Ken
> Do Not Archive
>
> Pat Hatch wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> >
> >Ken,
> >
> >Depending on the county you are in, sales tax ranges from 6.5% and higher
> >(7% here in Indian River County). There is no personal property tax here
> >like there is in some states, like North Carolina for example. If you
are
> >moving to Florida and have already paid the sales tax on your car or
> >airplane in another state, you do not owe Florida sales tax--unless it
has
> >been less than 6 months since you paid the sales tax. Sounds to me like
you
> >will not owe any sales tax at all...disclaimer: I am not a tax attorney
and
> >what I am telling you is my personal experience only!
> >
> >Hope this helps.
> >
> >Pat Hatch
> >RV-4
> >RV-6
> >RV-7 QB (Building)
> >Vero Beach, FL
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Ken Balch" <kbalch1@comcast.net>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: FL tax question
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch1@comcast.net>
> >>
> >>Hey Guys,
> >>
> >>Can anyone tell me if Florida has a sales or use tax for aircraft? What
> >>am I likely to be hit with by the state when I move there in January and
> >>they get wind of my RV?
> >>
> >>Regards,
> >>Ken Balch
> >>RV-8 N118KB
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>Seems that neither Home Depot and Lowes Hardware have a product called
>Ospho. Where did you buy it Linn?
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
>On Finish Kit
>
>
>
Actually ....... Home Depot. In the paint department. In my HD, it
wasn't with the all the other 'corrosion' stuff, but on the endcap.
Your store is probably different, so (I know it's hard) find a HD person
in the paint area and ask
Linn
do not archive.
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: 4130 parts showing rust through primer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lucky macy" <luckymacy@hotmail.com>
When I owned a boat I used it on stainless steel parts like hand rails and
bought the stuff at West Marine. Little goes a long way.
>From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 4130 parts showing rust through primer
>Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 11:53:10 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>Seems that neither Home Depot and Lowes Hardware have a product called
>Ospho. Where did you buy it Linn?
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip-up TMX-O-360 ACS2002 Dynon CNS430 Digitrak
>On Finish Kit
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: 4130 parts showing rust through primer
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >
> > Steven Eberhart wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: Steven Eberhart <newtech@newtech.com>
> > >
> > >THe plane is an RV-8 that was delivered before Van's switched to powder
> > >coating the 4130 steel parts. We have had to clean up rust that was
> > >starting to show through the elevator and rudder brackets. It was like
> > >the primer was porous and didn't seal against moisture. The paint used
> > >was RM DP-40. THere seems to be a distinct difference between the RM
>DP
> > >primer and the PPG DP primer. I cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel
> > >on the Dremel and primed with NAPA rattle can self etching primer and
> > >then everything was primed with the same PPG DP-40LF that the entire
> > >plane was primed with. Color coats were PPG Concept.
> > >
> > >Steve Eberhart
> > >Finishing up the paint job on RV-8 N49KS and building RV-7A N14SE
> > >
> > Well, I think I got it right. Preparation. Here's what I do, and it
> > seems to work in the FL humidity.
> > 1. Buy some Ospho from your local hardware store.
> > 2. Let the steel get a little surface rust. Ospho works best when there
> > isn't shiny steel. No, I don't know why.
> > 3. Brush on the Ospho. If you HAVE to spray it, do so in well
> > ventilated area and wear a RESPIRATOR. Not a paper mask.
> > 4. Let it dry over a day or so. It will look real ugly with rough
> > black crap all over it. Lightly sand off the ugly black crap.
> > 5. Repeat step 3.
> > 6. If you get more ugly black crap, do step 4. If not prime with paint
> > of your choice.
> >
> > Ospho has acid in it (phosphoric, I think .... read the label. Well,
> > read it anyway. It also has a dissoved plastic in it that will coat and
> > seal the steel. the plastic is not durable so you must prime.
> >
> > Now, for what Steve's problem was. He's right. Primer is porous. It
> > serves as a base to help make paint stick better. Paint doesn't stick
> > to bare metal very well, and primer doesn't keep the moisture out.
> > Together, however, they're a real good team. Steve didn't get the paint
> > on soon enough. Been there, done that, and stripped it all off to start
> > over. If you just try and kill the rust and paint over it though, it
> > will come back later on.
> >
> > No, I'm not a paint expert, and don't play one on TV, but I've painted
> > enough to know what has worked for me in the past. Ospho will also work
> > on aluminum. I have test pieces 20 years old with good paint still on
>it.
> >
> > I also caution against mixing types of primer and paint. If you're
> > going to use urethane paint, use urethane primer. Same with acrylic and
> > the other flavors.
> >
> > Hope this helps!
> > Linn Walters
> >
> >
>
>
Is there a gadget-lover on your gift list? MSN Shopping has lined up some
good bets! http://shopping.msn.com
Message 42
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|
"'mrobert569@hotmail.com'" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
| Subject: | FARs Question for Das Fed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Mike,
We have been having an interpretive discussion in our dept about Exp built
record keeping and who can do the maintenance.
The first issue is that Part 43.1B excludes Exp from this part, but
paragraphs or verbiage of Part 43 are referenced by Part 91. In particular
91.405 and 91.407 reference specific paragraphs of Part 43 by requiring the
owner to maintain records and do not allow for continued operations unless
record entries are made after maintenance is done in accordance with those
paragraphs in Part 43.
So the question is, does the Part 43.1B exclusion override the Part 91
specific references to part 43 paragraphs, or does the Part 91 claims to
"any aircraft" override the 43.1B exclusion in those specific references.
To me this seems purely interpretive on the part of the FAA, but I believe
that Part 91 overrides the 43.1B exclusion given that the exclusion only
excludes the part as a whole but makes no attempt to exclude references to
chunks of the part by other parts.
The other question is who can do the work and return the Exp aircraft back
to service particularly when the original builder is no longer in the
picture. This sort of falls under 91.403 which says nobody can do the work
on an aircraft unless they are included (listed) in that subpart (E) or
other applicable parts including 43. Well 43 is the only place that lets an
A&P or anybody else do the work, but if 43 is excluded from this for EXP's
by 43.1B, then nobody can do the work. And the rest of Part 91 Subpart E
doesn't really list anybody else who can do this work except for a few
places where it allows for the manufacturer to do things like a transponder
check (91.413 C 3). So in this case 43 must be included or nobody can do the
work, yet if it is then A&Ps must be in the picture for any maintenance done
beyond PM on an EXP.
Now I've never explored this because I've always been an A&P or the
manufacturer, but I have a number of associates who are second owners who
are not really following these requirements, particularly the record
keeping. Certainly its reasonable to allow the manufacturer to maintain the
aircraft even though the regs don't clearly indicate this, but a second
owner could be a mere pilot with no skills at anything other than flying. I
wouldn't want to be a passenger in an aircraft being maintained by someone
of such limited stature.
I guess I personally don't really care much, but I do believe that they are
wasting their money on insurance as their aircraft are legally not airworthy
as per these regs if they maintain or alter it. It seems like I am missing
something here, or this is just being look at from afar as being beyond the
current
scope of the FAA.
Any of your wisdom or thoughts would be appreciated, although I fully
understand that Ms. Blakely's word is the only thing that really matters.
;{)
Wheeler
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 04:10 PM 11/19/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>
>Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
>
>I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
>as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
>led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
>were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
>12 volts is applied.
It's important to dim the warning lights when operating at night.
An LED that shows nicely in daylight will nearly blind you at night. There
are a bunch of ways to do this, but it must be done somehow.
The brightness of an LED is directly proportional to the current
flowing through it. The voltage across the LED is only very loosely
associated with the brightness, so you are pretty much forced to dim the
LED by controlling the current, rather than the voltage.
You typically operate an LED on 12 volts by installing a series
resistor to limit the current. As has been noted by others, the typical
current is 20 mA, so you pick a resistor using Ohm's law to deliver that
current.
To make the LEDs dimmer, you must reduce the current. In a warning
light, you want the circuit that does this to be as reliable as possible.
You can reduce the current by either increasing the series resistance or by
reducing the voltage that feeds the series resistor. Increasing the series
resistance would likely be the simplest and most reliable.
Some sort of "day/night" switch would probably be adequate. You
could put two resistors in series on each warning light. You would then put
a small diode at the connection between each of these series resistors. You
would then connect the free end of each of these diodes to a "bypass"
switch. The other terminal of the switch would be connected to plus 12
volts. When you close the bypass switch, it would cut out (bypass) one of
the series resistors and make the LEDs brighter. When you open the switch,
current would have to flow through both of the resistors and the light
would be dim.
Plus 12 V --------/\/\/\/\-------------o----/\/\/\/\-----(LED1) ---- ground
!
!
Plus 12 V ---(switch)----o----!<!---!
!
o----!<!--!
!
Plus 12 V --------/\/\/\/\-------------o----/\/\/\/\-----(LED2) ---- ground
The oil pressure switch or low fuel switch would go in series with
the LED, between the LED and ground.
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Sales tax for big-ticket items |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder@hotmail.com>
All,
I've been off the list for a while, so howdy from St. Louis! I took
delivery of a beautiful overhauled O-320 from AeroSport Power in June of
2002. It was all I had expected, and more. Ok, now the bad news. This
year I got a nastygram from the state of Missouri demanding about $800.00
sales tax for that beast. It seems that customs reported the fact that I
bought an engine from a Canadian company, and the state wanted its pound of
flesh.
After trying all subtle means of ducking the tax, I paid it. Nobody else I
know (and I know a lot of builders) has had to pay taxes on the items we
mail order from other states (and other countries). According to my state's
tax attorney, Missouri forgives a total of $2,000.00 per year of internet or
mail order purchases. Obviously, any Van's kit, an engine, or several
instruments will bust that minimum.
I would never rat out my fellow builders, but I wanted to make everyone
aware that the states are busy looking under all the couch cushions for
money, and you may get a little note from the revenooers your own selves.
Jim Bower
RV-6A fuselage
St. Louis, Misery
Is there a gadget-lover on your gift list? MSN Shopping has lined up some
good bets! http://shopping.msn.com
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | RV-4 front seat parachute? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <nauga@brick.net>
I've got a backpack parachute, and there's no way
I can fit it and me in the front seat of my RV-4.
It looks like a seat-pack chute will give a much better
fit, but before I shell out the bucks, can anyone
here comment on the fit and the space they take up?
Anybody got a seat pack chute they want to get rid of?
By the way, my RV-4 passed inspection on 2 November 2003,
and my first post to the RV-list was in July 1992...
seven months after I started building. Yup, I'm slow.
Still hasn't flown, either :-)
Dave Hyde
nauga@brick.net
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I'm using radio shack leds for with built in resistors and van's dimmer.
They being used for EIS warning, wig-wag, and fuel pump. Seems to work
well so far, but not flying yet.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bill Dube [mailto:bdube@al.noaa.gov]
> Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 7:03 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: LED Warning Lamps
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> At 04:10 PM 11/19/2003 -0700, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
> >
> >Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
> >
> >I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such
> >things as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought
> some neat
> >little led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see
> how bright
> >they were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a
> nanosecond
> >when 12 volts is applied.
>
> It's important to dim the warning lights when
> operating at night.
> An LED that shows nicely in daylight will nearly blind you at
> night. There
> are a bunch of ways to do this, but it must be done somehow.
>
> The brightness of an LED is directly proportional to
> the current
> flowing through it. The voltage across the LED is only very loosely
> associated with the brightness, so you are pretty much forced
> to dim the
> LED by controlling the current, rather than the voltage.
>
> You typically operate an LED on 12 volts by
> installing a series
> resistor to limit the current. As has been noted by others,
> the typical
> current is 20 mA, so you pick a resistor using Ohm's law to
> deliver that
> current.
>
> To make the LEDs dimmer, you must reduce the
> current. In a warning
> light, you want the circuit that does this to be as reliable
> as possible.
> You can reduce the current by either increasing the series
> resistance or by
> reducing the voltage that feeds the series resistor.
> Increasing the series
> resistance would likely be the simplest and most reliable.
>
> Some sort of "day/night" switch would probably be
> adequate. You
> could put two resistors in series on each warning light. You
> would then put
> a small diode at the connection between each of these series
> resistors. You
> would then connect the free end of each of these diodes to a "bypass"
> switch. The other terminal of the switch would be connected
> to plus 12
> volts. When you close the bypass switch, it would cut out
> (bypass) one of
> the series resistors and make the LEDs brighter. When you
> open the switch,
> current would have to flow through both of the resistors and
> the light
> would be dim.
>
> Plus 12 V
> --------/\/\/\/\-------------o----/\/\/\/\-----(LED1) ---- ground
> !
> !
> Plus 12 V ---(switch)----o----!<!---!
> !
> o----!<!--!
> !
> Plus 12 V
> --------/\/\/\/\-------------o----/\/\/\/\-----(LED2) ---- ground
>
>
> The oil pressure switch or low fuel switch would go
> in series with
> the LED, between the LED and ground.
>
>
> ===========
> ============
> Matronics Forums.
> ============
> ============
> ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Anti corrosion policy from Vans |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Rhea" <rv6larry@msn.com>
John
The only problem I encountered with corrosion was with a skin that was
stored on the back patio for several months with the edge laying on the
concrete.Corrosion started all along the edge that was in contact with the
concrete and like a cancer the white powdery corrosion traveled
approximately 2 inches up between the plastic coating .This corrosion all
happened within a six month time period.I would suggest protecting the edge
of all skins from coming in contact with any surface succeptable to
moisture.
68LL Nearing completion
Larry
>From: "Coers, John" <John.Coers@fkilogistex.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: RV-List@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Anti corrosion policy from Vans
>Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2003 13:03:25 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Coers, John" <John.Coers@fkilogistex.com>
>
>Perhaps I'm losing it, but I can't get past the issue of corrosion under
>the
>plastic on new parts. For about three months now, I have had 3 pieces of
>scrap laying in the bed of my pickup truck in an attempt to win an argument
>with Jim Sears. I coated one piece of scrap with Zinc Chromate, another
>piece with Napa Zincrom and the third piece was left bare. Not only have I
>not found any corrosion on the coated pieces, but the bare piece looks just
>fine as well. I don't understand how aluminum covered with the vinyl from
>Vans could start corroding while sitting on a shelf awaiting use. Perhaps
>if
>the shelf it was sitting on was made of salt and the air was 90% saturated
>then perhaps I could see it. But, I'm having trouble seeing covered
>aluminum
>corroding when you can go to your local airport and see bare aluminum
>aircraft sitting there doing just fine. The only way I can see corrosion on
>new plastic covered skins would be for the skins to be covered in plastic
>while wet, even then the alclad should have protected them. My biggest
>concern right now is that I'm about to receive my wing kit and I'm trying
>to
>figure out what I should do for storage. Plastic - on or off?
>
>John Coers
>90780
>
>
From the hottest toys to tips on keeping fit this winter, youll find a
range of helpful holiday info here.
http://special.msn.com/network/happyholidays.armx
Message 48
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Edwin L (Ted) French" <ted_french@canada.com>
Take a look at http://www3.telus.net/elfrench/cfxcs.html The bottom picture
shows how I mounted mine
Ted French
Rv-6A flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of John Mcmahon
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cockpit Lights
--> RV-List message posted by: John Mcmahon <rv6@earthlink.net>
Dick
Hope this helps
John (RV6 near paint)
GMC wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "GMC" <gmcnutt@intergate.ca>
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
>
>
> I am going to use three or four of the little "eyeball"
>lights from VANS for interior and panel lighting and I was wondering if
>people that have used these before have any recommendations on mounting
>locations. It is an RV6 slider. (Close to finished)
> Thanks,
> Dick Dial
>
>
>Hi Dick
>
>Yes I like the eyeball lights, used three. Two on left side for flight
>instruments, one on right side with Vans internally lighted engine
>instruments. Left and right sides have separate rheostats.
>
>I located lights on forward side at base of roll bar on inside of the
>reinforcement plate.
>Made up a matching light mount plate and drilled/threaded flange of
>reinforcement (front angle) for tiny screws to hold light mounting plate.
>
>With two lights close to flight instruments you can aim each at different
>sections of panel and get good panel coverage, have no other RV to compare
>it to but I would think that if the lights were further aft or mounted
lower
>they would light up too much area and cause distracting reflections. My
>instrument panel is black semi gloss and reflections are very minimal. IMHO
>it looks good and panel lighting is equivalent to or better than many
>certified aircraft.
>
>Would I do it that way again? The right side light has packed it in
>(wiring?) and will be repaired/replaced this weekend during annual
>inspection, so next time I will put two lights on right side for
>redundancy - same location.
>
> 6A slider - 220 hrs, about 6 at night - down for annual.
>
>George McNutt
>Langley B.C
>
>
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: Keep building WAS: New Anti-Corrosion Policy from Van's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
What worked for me was to use a small light soldering iron with a round
point. This has worked well
for me, no marks on the metal.
I like to leave the plastic on to prevent scratches during the long building
process.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay,B.C.<<
Good evening Eustace, point well taken as always as that is what I did with
similar results. You will notice in my post, I said "most". It is just
after starting the painting process I can't tell the difference between a
skin I left the plastic on and one I didn't since I scotchbrite pad the
skins anyway. Other mileage may vary:-) I just went out and peeled the
plastic off my "new" rudder that has been in a variable temp outbuilding for
the last 4 months, still looks new.
>From: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
Craftsmanship, certainly but don't get so distracted that you
>don't ever have a first flight!
>
>Get to work!
>
Hal, before you jump on my bandwagon with both feet, I will tell you how
anal I am in the little things: I just finished painting my canopy screws
(used them all around thanks to Rick Gray...joke he'll know what I am
talking about:-), tinnerman washers, even flipped the tinnermans over so you
won't see silver bottoms through the canopy, and those little canopy roller
brackets and have spent the better part of three days looking at the
interior figuring how much stuff to take out before painting the
interior.............vent line, fuel lines, brake hoses, rudder
pedals.............hum, should I go ahead and paint the vertical spar
covers....hum, I better pop those things on so you can't see those silver
heads.
Hal, think before you jump you just might land in a big ol pile of my anal
construction crap:-)
John Coers, did you see any big ol digs in the skins when you were here a
couple weeks ago??
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Buying Instruments. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Set yourself up for fun at home! Get tips on home entertainment equipment,
video game reviews, and more here.
http://special.msn.com/home/homeent.armx
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 front seat parachute? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
nauga@brick.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <nauga@brick.net>
>
>I've got a backpack parachute, and there's no way
>I can fit it and me in the front seat of my RV-4.
>It looks like a seat-pack chute will give a much better
>fit, but before I shell out the bucks, can anyone
>here comment on the fit and the space they take up?
>
I have an old security safety 'chute that I use in my Pitts. I would say
that it's about 2" thick, both in the seat and back. I had to put a
boat cusion under the 'chute so I could see forward better.
>Anybody got a seat pack chute they want to get rid of?
>
Not me! But you may want to contact Allen Silver (510) 785-7070.
Silver Parachute in Hayward CA. He can recommend or even make one for
you ..... to your specs!!!
>By the way, my RV-4 passed inspection on 2 November 2003,
>and my first post to the RV-list was in July 1992...
>seven months after I started building. Yup, I'm slow.
>Still hasn't flown, either :-)
>
And you're waiting on??????? AAAh, the decision ..... fly it yourself
or the designated test pilot???? OOps, don't want to start that thread
over again!!!
Linn Walters
do not archive
>
>Dave Hyde
>nauga@brick.net
>
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming model codes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
They are available on the Lycoming website at:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/productSales/index.html
Mike Robertson
>From: "Gary B. Jacobs" <gblayne@mchsi.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Lycoming model codes
>Date: Sun, 16 Nov 2003 18:52:35 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gary B. Jacobs" <gblayne@mchsi.com>
>
>Does anyone know where I could obtain a listing of the model code
>designations for the different models of Lycoming engines?
>
>Gary & Marianne Jacobs
>gblayne@mchsi.com
>
>
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 front seat parachute? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
nauga@brick.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <nauga@brick.net>
>
> I've got a backpack parachute, and there's no way
> I can fit it and me in the front seat of my RV-4.
> It looks like a seat-pack chute will give a much better
> fit, but before I shell out the bucks, can anyone
> here comment on the fit and the space they take up?
>
> Anybody got a seat pack chute they want to get rid of?
>
> By the way, my RV-4 passed inspection on 2 November 2003,
> and my first post to the RV-list was in July 1992...
> seven months after I started building. Yup, I'm slow.
> Still hasn't flown, either :-)
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga@brick.net
Dave, find an IAC chapter and ask some of the acro guys if you can try on
different ones.
An easy way to do this is either go to a chapter meeting or just contact some
of the guys and tell them your situation. Maybe even go to the Acro newsgroup
or the Exploder.
Maybe even get hold of Rob Dorsey and have him give you some names who are
close to you. He is at American-Aerobatics.com.
This way you would have a very good feel for the one you like. Keep in mind
that some chutes are not comfortable from design and others are uncomfortable
from the packer...
Where do you live, Maybe I can hook you up with someone.
Phil
do not archive
Message 53
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|
| Subject: | Re: LED Warning Lamps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Good explanation and suggestion, but your diodes are pointing the wrong
way :-) .
Dick Tasker, 90573
Fuselage
Bill Dube wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
>At 04:10 PM 11/19/2003 -0700, you wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
>>
>>Disclaimer - I have searched the archives
>>
>>I plan on using some small LED's as and enunciator panel for such things
>>as low fuel, starter engaged, low volt, etc. I bought some neat little
>>led's from mouser and the other night I wanted to see how bright they
>>were. Well, I'm here to tell ya their real bright for a nanosecond when
>>12 volts is applied.
>>
>>
>
> It's important to dim the warning lights when operating at night.
>An LED that shows nicely in daylight will nearly blind you at night. There
>are a bunch of ways to do this, but it must be done somehow.
>
> The brightness of an LED is directly proportional to the current
>flowing through it. The voltage across the LED is only very loosely
>associated with the brightness, so you are pretty much forced to dim the
>LED by controlling the current, rather than the voltage.
>
> You typically operate an LED on 12 volts by installing a series
>resistor to limit the current. As has been noted by others, the typical
>current is 20 mA, so you pick a resistor using Ohm's law to deliver that
>current.
>
> To make the LEDs dimmer, you must reduce the current. In a warning
>light, you want the circuit that does this to be as reliable as possible.
>You can reduce the current by either increasing the series resistance or by
>reducing the voltage that feeds the series resistor. Increasing the series
>resistance would likely be the simplest and most reliable.
>
> Some sort of "day/night" switch would probably be adequate. You
>could put two resistors in series on each warning light. You would then put
>a small diode at the connection between each of these series resistors. You
>would then connect the free end of each of these diodes to a "bypass"
>switch. The other terminal of the switch would be connected to plus 12
>volts. When you close the bypass switch, it would cut out (bypass) one of
>the series resistors and make the LEDs brighter. When you open the switch,
>current would have to flow through both of the resistors and the light
>would be dim.
>
>Plus 12 V --------/\/\/\/\-------------o----/\/\/\/\-----(LED1) ---- ground
> !
> !
>Plus 12 V ---(switch)----o----!<!---!
> !
> o----!<!--!
> !
>Plus 12 V --------/\/\/\/\-------------o----/\/\/\/\-----(LED2) ---- ground
>
>
> The oil pressure switch or low fuel switch would go in series with
>the LED, between the LED and ground.
>
>
>
>
Message 54
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|
| Subject: | Re: Deburring parts and squaring rib flanges |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Phil N wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil N" <pnewlon@toosan.com>
>
>
>I've been plugging along making a stack of deburred HS ribs this week.
>It takes me something like 20-30 minutes of deburring per piece to get
>what I consider a satisfactory part based on Van's instructions.
>Tedious is the word for this, but I thought it was what must be done. I
>was reading a RV8 website last night (can't remember which one) and the
>guy stated "it took two hours to deburr and square the flanges of the
>ribs for the HS". Sheesh, I have twice that already and am not even
>done deburring let alone squaring!
>
>Is 20-30 minutes per rib for deburring excessive (perfectionism)? (File,
>v-groove deburring tool, Scotchbrite wheel on exposed edges, hand sand
>nooks and crannies with 400 emery cloth)
>
>What about squaring the flange, do I just hand bend the edges to the
>point they look pretty close or do I need to get out my square and
>seamer and make sure they're perfect?
>
>Yup, there sure are references to squared flanges in the archives. But
>"straighten them or you'll see them" doesn't tell me if eyeballing is
>sufficient or if I need to get the square out. (OK, I need a little
>reassurance here..... I'll take my "insecure perfectionist" issues up
>with a shrink as soon as I am done building and have the spare time :-)
>
>While I'm at it, I'll ask about fluting to straighten the ribs. My ribs
>range from no bow to the worst being bowed 3/32 (HS806?) I figured to
>get the 3/32 ones down to the 1/16th range but leave the rest alone. Is
>1/16th inch bow good, or should I spend another 5 minutes per part
>trying to get them closer than that? (and run the risk of ruining
>one....) It is my assumption that, as wide as the rib is, if I get it
>within 1/16th and properly positioned in relation to the PP holes, I
>will be good to go.
>
>Thanks!
>
>Phil
>
One little caution on squaring the flanges. Some don't need to be
square, due to the taper of the structure. Been there, squared them,
then unsquared them to match the taper.
Charlie
Message 55
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|
| Subject: | Sales tax for big-ticket items |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
I inquired with our Idaho tax office and I was informed that if you don't keep
accurate records on what you spent for your
aircraft, and especially what you paid for the sales/use tax, you can be taxed
at the time your register your aircraft for
its estimated fair market value. (Big shudder!)
True, most states can't track the various and sundry items we order on the net,
but they can effectively track big ticket
items that need to be eventually registered.
So....I will pay the use tax else I be dinged for the estimated value of my labor.
Still, let's face it; we are still getting a pretty good deal!
Just put my RV8 on its wheels as I needed something dramatic to look at for a change.
I like it!
Regards,
Vince Himsl
RV8 - SB Finish
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Bower
Subject: RV-List: Sales tax for big-ticket items
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder@hotmail.com>
All,
I've been off the list for a while, so howdy from St. Louis! I took
delivery of a beautiful overhauled O-320 from AeroSport Power in June of
2002. It was all I had expected, and more. Ok, now the bad news. This
year I got a nastygram from the state of Missouri demanding about $800.00
sales tax for that beast. It seems that customs reported the fact that I
bought an engine from a Canadian company, and the state wanted its pound of
flesh.
After trying all subtle means of ducking the tax, I paid it. Nobody else I
know (and I know a lot of builders) has had to pay taxes on the items we
mail order from other states (and other countries). According to my state's
tax attorney, Missouri forgives a total of $2,000.00 per year of internet or
mail order purchases. Obviously, any Van's kit, an engine, or several
instruments will bust that minimum.
I would never rat out my fellow builders, but I wanted to make everyone
aware that the states are busy looking under all the couch cushions for
money, and you may get a little note from the revenooers your own selves.
Jim Bower
RV-6A fuselage
St. Louis, Misery
Is there a gadget-lover on your gift list? MSN Shopping has lined up some
good bets! http://shopping.msn.com
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Drill Size??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
In Van's latest manual in the instructions for installing the rudder hinge
brackets, to first drill with a 3/16 and final drill with a #12.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frederick Oldenburg" <foldenburg@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Drill Size???
> --> RV-List message posted by: Frederick Oldenburg
<foldenburg@earthlink.net>
>
> When the plans call for a drill size (e.g. 3/16), as opposed to a number
(e.g. #12) Am I supposed to use the exact drill size (3/16) or the numbered
bit?
>
> For example, on DWG 3 in View A-A, as I understand it, the holes that call
for an AN426AD4-6 or AN470AD4-6 rivet would get a #30 hole. I undertand how
this works, the #30 (decimal 0.1285) is slightly larger then the rivet
diameter (4/16 or 1/8 - decimal 0.1250) - no rocket science here.
>
> However, in this view, the plans call for "Enlarge/Drill 3/16 DIA in
assembly with fuselage, 4 places." I assume this to mean that I do not drill
this now, but wait until I am assembling with the fuse. When this
happens....am I supposed to use a 3/16 bit?
>
> Are these assumptions correct?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Fred
>
>
> Fred Oldenburg
> RV-7A - Empennage
> http://www.rv.oldsack.com
>
>
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: First flight decisons |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
New engines and quality overhauls are run in a test stand for varying
amounts of time, usually around two to three hours. This is primarily to
make sure that it meets certain parameters such as power output, oil
pressure and that there are no internal problems that could cause trouble
later such as metal showing up in the oil.
The run is done to a check list and it also starts the seating of the rings
to the cylinders. It can take few or several hours of flight time before the
oil consumption becomes constant and will vary from one engine to another
depending on how careful it was flown in the first few hours, this such as
climbing out at to low an airspeed with high head temps or on the other hand
pulling the power off at high altitude and shock cooling the cylinders,
will also vary depending on the type of cylinders that were installed.
It is just a common sense thing, it needs the higher power setting to do a
good job of seating the rings and will make the difference between using a
quart of oil every 25 hours or one every five hours. Once the oil
consumption has stabilized then use what ever power setting you prefer, 65%
is ideal or seventy if you want to burn more fuel. Lycoming states in there
engine manual that 75% is max for continuous cruise.
I put a lengthy post on engine handling some time ago , you might wont to
take a look at it.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: First flight decisons
> --> RV-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy"
<Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
>
> Does this caution apply to engines that are run in to some extent at the
> factory?
> Thx for the word of caution, I had not read that anywhere.
> R
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Eustace Bowhay [mailto:ebowhay@jetstream.net]
> To: rv list
> Subject: RV-List: First flight decisons
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> In addition to all that has been said on this subject one of the most
> important items is the engine.
>
> If one is starting with a new or overhauled engine it is critical that
> ground running be kept to an absolute minimum. For me this would be a
> start-up and checking for any snags, clearing the snags if any then out to
> the runway and gone.
>
> The reason for this is the engine needs to be run at power settings high
> enough to seat the rings like 75% in cruise until the oil consumption
> stabilizes.
>
> Taxiing and running up and down the runway will glaze the cylinders and
you
> will have a oil burner with the only cure being to pull the cylinders and
> deglaze and new rings.
>
> This mean that the first flight should be done by someone that is current
on
> the RV and needs no practicing on the ground.
>
> Not trying to discourage anyone from doing the first flight but you have
to
> be honest with yourself and ask if your prepared to go under these
> conditions.
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 front seat parachute? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Dave,
I wish you fair winds & a Good First Flight! BTW, I'm a fairly small
guy, 5-10, 150 lbs, and when I compete in my RV-4 I have to take the seat
cushions out so I can fit in with my "chute" (mandatory under I.A.C. rules).
And I can't even wear my COOL helmet with the face mask & blast shield.
:-} I usually duct-tape my headset on so I don't loose it goin'
negative.
Chuck
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: <nauga@brick.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 front seat parachute?
> --> RV-List message posted by: <nauga@brick.net>
>
> I've got a backpack parachute, and there's no way
> I can fit it and me in the front seat of my RV-4.
> It looks like a seat-pack chute will give a much better
> fit, but before I shell out the bucks, can anyone
> here comment on the fit and the space they take up?
>
> Anybody got a seat pack chute they want to get rid of?
>
> By the way, my RV-4 passed inspection on 2 November 2003,
> and my first post to the RV-list was in July 1992...
> seven months after I started building. Yup, I'm slow.
> Still hasn't flown, either :-)
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga@brick.net
>
>
Message 59
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|
| Subject: | RV-4 front seat parachute? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C. Rabaut" <crabaut@coalinga.com>
I forgot to mention... I bought my chute(s) from a guy who buys, sells,
trades, & re-packs chutes. His name is
Allen Silver (510) 785-7070 out of Hayward, Cal. He doesn't charge much
for re-packing either.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: C. Rabaut <crabaut@coalinga.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-4 front seat parachute?
> Dave,
>
> I wish you fair winds & a Good First Flight! BTW, I'm a fairly
small
> guy, 5-10, 150 lbs, and when I compete in my RV-4 I have to take the seat
> cushions out so I can fit in with my "chute" (mandatory under I.A.C.
rules).
> And I can't even wear my COOL helmet with the face mask & blast shield.
> :-} I usually duct-tape my headset on so I don't loose it goin'
> negative.
>
> Chuck
>
> do not archive
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <nauga@brick.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2003 6:43 PM
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 front seat parachute?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <nauga@brick.net>
> >
> > I've got a backpack parachute, and there's no way
> > I can fit it and me in the front seat of my RV-4.
> > It looks like a seat-pack chute will give a much better
> > fit, but before I shell out the bucks, can anyone
> > here comment on the fit and the space they take up?
> >
> > Anybody got a seat pack chute they want to get rid of?
> >
> > By the way, my RV-4 passed inspection on 2 November 2003,
> > and my first post to the RV-list was in July 1992...
> > seven months after I started building. Yup, I'm slow.
> > Still hasn't flown, either :-)
> >
> > Dave Hyde
> > nauga@brick.net
> >
> >
> >
> > _-> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 60
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 front seat parachute? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
My second RV-4 came with a seat pack that was made to fit between the spar
and the seat back. I don't want to sell it, but if you wanted to use it for
I might loan it out for a repack or something like that. It is out of date
and not comfortable at all, but it fits in an RV-4.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: <nauga@brick.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 front seat parachute?
> --> RV-List message posted by: <nauga@brick.net>
>
> I've got a backpack parachute, and there's no way
> I can fit it and me in the front seat of my RV-4.
> It looks like a seat-pack chute will give a much better
> fit, but before I shell out the bucks, can anyone
> here comment on the fit and the space they take up?
>
> Anybody got a seat pack chute they want to get rid of?
>
> By the way, my RV-4 passed inspection on 2 November 2003,
> and my first post to the RV-list was in July 1992...
> seven months after I started building. Yup, I'm slow.
> Still hasn't flown, either :-)
>
> Dave Hyde
> nauga@brick.net
>
>
Message 61
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|
| Subject: | AeroElectric Connection Seminar |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
If anyone needs a place to stay, send me an email off-line. I am located
at 589 Ploughman's Bend Drive, Franklin, TN. This is about 20 miles
south of Nashville, with easy access to I-65. I will be attending, so
can also provide transportation from my house. I have room for 3 people
or couples in separate bedrooms and 1 or 2 more on the sofa bed and couch
in the great room (more if you're good friends). First come, first
served.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee)
Do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>Anyone wanting to attend a AeroElectric Connection Wiring Seminar near
>Nashville,TN please goto:
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/seminars/Nashville.html and register.
Message 62
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--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
The Sportplane Builder (Tony Bingelis) strongly recommends a bypass to
dump the hot air when it is not used for cabin heating.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (setting up shop in Franklin,
Tennessee)
> smoothweasel@juno.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: smoothweasel@juno.com
> >
> >
> >Good Day to everyone!!! Today a follow RV builder was here to look
at
> >my project and was concerned that I did NOT have provisions to vent my
> >heat muff when the heater is not in use. He seemed to think the
exhaust
> >needed some kind of cooling. Is there anyone out there flying that
> >does not have these provisions?
Message 63
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|
| Subject: | Sales tax for big-ticket items |
--> RV-List message posted by: kempthornes <kempthornes@earthlink.net>
At 06:02 PM 11/20/2003 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Vince Himsl" <vhimsl@turbonet.com>
how do they figure the tax on a "Devil Cat One" for example???? What RV?
hal do not archive
>I inquired with our Idaho tax office and I was informed that if you don't
>keep accurate records on what you spent for your
>aircraft, and especially what you paid for the sales/use tax, you can be
>taxed at the time your register your aircraft for
>its estimated fair market value. (Big shudder!)
>
>True, most states can't track the various and sundry items we order on the
>net, but they can effectively track big ticket
>items that need to be eventually registered.
>
>So....I will pay the use tax else I be dinged for the estimated value of
>my labor.
>
>Still, let's face it; we are still getting a pretty good deal!
>
>Just put my RV8 on its wheels as I needed something dramatic to look at
>for a change. I like it!
>
>Regards,
>
>Vince Himsl
>RV8 - SB Finish
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Bower
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Sales tax for big-ticket items
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder@hotmail.com>
>
>All,
>
>I've been off the list for a while, so howdy from St. Louis! I took
>delivery of a beautiful overhauled O-320 from AeroSport Power in June of
>2002. It was all I had expected, and more. Ok, now the bad news. This
>year I got a nastygram from the state of Missouri demanding about $800.00
>sales tax for that beast. It seems that customs reported the fact that I
>bought an engine from a Canadian company, and the state wanted its pound of
>flesh.
>
>After trying all subtle means of ducking the tax, I paid it. Nobody else I
>know (and I know a lot of builders) has had to pay taxes on the items we
>mail order from other states (and other countries). According to my state's
>tax attorney, Missouri forgives a total of $2,000.00 per year of internet or
>mail order purchases. Obviously, any Van's kit, an engine, or several
>instruments will bust that minimum.
>
>I would never rat out my fellow builders, but I wanted to make everyone
>aware that the states are busy looking under all the couch cushions for
>money, and you may get a little note from the revenooers your own selves.
>
>Jim Bower
>RV-6A fuselage
>St. Louis, Misery
>
>Is there a gadget-lover on your gift list? MSN Shopping has lined up some
>good bets! http://shopping.msn.com
>
>
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