Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:26 AM - Your RV9A empty weight? (Roger Evenson)
2. 06:19 AM - newly overhauled engine starting question (Dave Ford)
3. 07:07 AM - dodge this responsibility (T H)
4. 07:29 AM - multiple terminal boots, same terminal (Scott Diffenbaugh)
5. 09:05 AM - Re: multiple terminal boots, same terminal ()
6. 09:29 AM - Re: newly overhauled engine starting question (Ed Bundy)
7. 09:37 AM - Fuel supply line tubing (Geoff Evans)
8. 10:05 AM - F-821 Skin Fitting problem (GEORGE INMAN)
9. 10:36 AM - Re: dodge this responsibility (Jim Bower)
10. 11:20 AM - Westach egine instruments (geoffkim@pdq.net)
11. 11:24 AM - Anyone in VA giving Young Eagles rides? (czechsix@juno.com)
12. 12:17 PM - I am (or should be) committed (Randy Richter)
13. 01:36 PM - Re: Westach egine instruments (Elsa & Henry)
14. 01:47 PM - RV builders prayer (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
15. 03:07 PM - Re: RV builders prayer (Elsa & Henry)
16. 03:13 PM - Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? (N223RV@aol.com)
17. 03:18 PM - Re: RV builders prayer (Jeff Orear)
18. 03:36 PM - Low Oil Temps (N223RV@aol.com)
19. 04:35 PM - Re: Low Oil Temps (Joe Hine)
20. 05:13 PM - Re: Low Oil Temps (Stein Bruch)
21. 05:56 PM - Re: RV builders prayer (Dan Checkoway)
22. 08:19 PM - Re: Anyone in VA giving Young Eagles rides? (SportAV8R@aol.com)
23. 08:33 PM - Re: Fuel supply line tubing (Bobby Hester)
24. 10:49 PM - using non-sheared wing tips on RV-7 (Dan Checkoway)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Your RV9A empty weight? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Evenson" <revenson@comcast.net>
If you are flying an RV9A, would you answer a couple of questions for me? I'd
like to get an average empty weight of flying RV9A's:
What's your empty weight?
What engine/prop combination do you have?
Anything else of note affecting your empty weight?
Thanks, Roger.
Message 2
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| Subject: | newly overhauled engine starting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Ford" <dford@michweb.net>
I have read some recent posts regarding starting a new or rebuilt engine and have
some questions. I had picked up a package while at Oshkosh from Lycoming regarding
some of their service instructions. One of them outlines the procedure
they recommend for breaking in a new or overhauled engine. Their comments
about breaking in the rings ranging from a cylinder that has new rings only or
a completely overhauled engine, are that the procedure is the same. I don't
have the instructions with me at the moment, they are at the airport but basically
goes like this:
Start engine to verify oil pressure and if no oil pressure shut down before 30
seconds.
If oil pressure is fine run engine at 1000 rpm until oil pressure comes to 140
degrees.
After reaching 140 degrees run engine at 1200 rpm for 15 minutes monitoring cylinder
temps and making sure they do not exceed limits.
Shut off, let engine cool while checking for oil leaks. After engine cools moderately
restart and bring oil temp back to 140 then bring to full airframe rpm
for not longer than 10 seconds.
Fly at full throttle for 2 hours then alternating at 75 and 60 % power until oil
consumption stabilizes.
This is the basic outline for the engine preliminary startup according to Lycoming,
(it is from memory so may not be exact) before flying which contradicts the
theory I've also heard from others of minimal engine start for no more than
30 seconds for checking oil leaks, then take off and fly full throttle for at
least 1 hour.
My question lies between the first 30 seconds and the runup procedures of basically
warming the engine and oil, a short duration full rpm runup, then full throttle
flight. I have a completely overhauled engine I will be flying shortly
so am concerned about cylinder glazing preventing a quality break-in but am also
wondering why there is a contradiction between Lycoming and the " don't run
the engine on the ground" theory? I want to make sure that my engine runs ok
for at least the time I can get to altitude (for sure) but don't want to inhibit
the break-in procedure. Anyone have any helpful information?
Dave Ford
RV6 getting close
Message 3
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| Subject: | dodge this responsibility |
--> RV-List message posted by: "T H" <flyinggrizz@hotmail.com>
I will not dodge this responsibility if
called like some ex president we had.
Glenn Williams
Glenn I offer my full support to you and yours. As the son of a career Navy
man I know what you loved ones are going through. I must point out however
that the current president sending you to battle dodged his responsisility
as well by being AWOL during the same conflict as the ex president. Dodge
responsablity or break an oath, what's the differance? No intent to flame.
Grizz
do not archive
Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are
always singing on MSN Radio Plus. Try one month free!
Message 4
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| Subject: | multiple terminal boots, same terminal |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Diffenbaugh" <diff@foothill.net>
Dan,
Not sure on aircraft, but on autos, we use a terminal boot sized to the
terminal stud and also sized to accommodate several wires bundled together.
You can add heat shrink or RTV where the wires enter the boot if you want to
keep water out. RTV is more effective on multiple wires, but heat shrink
looks better. (If you can't find the right sized boot, you can cheat by
slitting the end of the boot where the wires enter-better use heat shrink if
you do) Hope this helps. Scott
ime: 12:33:14 PM PST US
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: multiple terminal boots, same terminal
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm wiring my engine ground strap to the firewall, and I'm bumping into
something that has come up a couple of times so far...two or more wires
going to the same terminal, and a conflict when you try to use terminal
boots/nipples on all of the wire ends.
I'm sure it's something very simple I'm missing, but what's the trick for
getting multiple ring terminals protected when they're on the same terminal?
Do most people just protect the "top" terminal?
I may not even bother with a terminal boot here, since these are ground
wires anyway...but in some cases there are hot (positive) terminals that I
do want to protect, and I've been settling for kind of kludgy fits of
terminal boots.
Any tricks?
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Scott Diffenbaugh
diff@foothill.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: multiple terminal boots, same terminal |
--> RV-List message posted by: <racker@rmci.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> I'm wiring my engine ground strap to the firewall, and I'm bumping into
> something that has come up a couple of times so far...two or more wires
> going to the same terminal, and a conflict when you try to use terminal
> boots/nipples on all of the wire ends.
Liquid electrical tape.
Robert Acker (RV-6 flying)
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | newly overhauled engine starting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@velocitus.net>
Dave, this is a problem that concerns everyone that does research into this
subject. You're referring to Lycoming's SI 1427B, and for the life of me I
don't know why it says what it does.
I doubt I could get my oil temp to 140 at 1000rpm. If I tried, it would
take forever, and the CHT's would be baking. Low rpm plus high CHT's glazed cylinders.
However, the SI does say 140 degrees or until oil temps
stabilize. Even so, it would take a LONG time for my oil temp to stabilize
at 1000rpm. Then to run it for another 15 minutes at 1200rpm, to me, is
just asking to glaze the cylinders.
Do a search on AVweb for the article "Proper Engine Break-In" It was
originally from the Cessna Pilot's Association. It basically says to keep
ground runs to an absolute minimum, run the engine at 1000rpm for 30-60
seconds, and shut down. Then 1-2 minutes to check the mags, boost pump, and
a quick run-up. Let the engine cool completely, and then a 30 minute FLIGHT
using max power (only reducing as necessary to keep temps in line) with a
full rich mixture.
Was the engine run in a test cell before you received it? According the
break-in test log I received with my engine, even Lycoming doesn't do what
1427b says. They started it, and immediately went to 1200prm for 5 minutes.
Then 5 minutes at 1800rpm, 10 minutes at 2200rpm, then idle for 5 minutes.
1700rpm for 5 minutes, 2400 for 5 min, 2650 for 5 min, full power for 15
min, then back to idle for 5 min.
There is a lot of good information on this subject out there, and virtually
all of it goes against 1427b. I don't know why. I followed the AVweb
article (and several other info sources that said basically the same thing)
7 years ago, and my engine only burns a quart every 25 hours.
Ed Bundy - RV6A, celebrating it's 7th birthday
yesterday (the airplane, not me)
> If oil pressure is fine run engine at 1000 rpm until oil pressure
> comes to 140 degrees.
>
> After reaching 140 degrees run engine at 1200 rpm for 15 minutes
> monitoring cylinder temps and making sure they do not exceed limits.
> My question lies between the first 30 seconds and the runup
> procedures of basically warming the engine and oil, a short
> duration full rpm runup, then full throttle flight. I have a
> completely overhauled engine I will be flying shortly so am
> concerned about cylinder glazing preventing a quality break-in
> but am also wondering why there is a contradiction between
> Lycoming and the " don't run the engine on the ground" theory? I
> want to make sure that my engine runs ok for at least the time I
> can get to altitude (for sure) but don't want to inhibit the
> break-in procedure. Anyone have any helpful information?
>
---
Message 7
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| Subject: | Fuel supply line tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
My QB fuselage and wings didn't come with any 3/8" tubing for the fuel supply
lines. All of the -6 fittings were included in the kit, but no tubing. It
wasn't even listed on the parts list.
I called Vans to ask about it and was told that it would be included in the
finish kit. This seems really strange to me since the plans and instructions
have you forming the fuel supply lines when you're attaching the wings to the
fuselage for the first time -- clearly not part of the finish kit.
Has anyone else had this problem?
-Geoff
RV-8 QB
__________________________________
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
Message 8
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| Subject: | F-821 Skin Fitting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@attcanada.ca>
I am having a hard time installing the F-821 top front skin on my RV8 QB.
If I align the top skin with the firewall the side edges don't end up
parallel to the side skins (F-820).
To get the sides parallel, the top skin needs to sit kind of crooked on the
firewall (the front right corner about 1/8" forward and the front left
corner 1/8" back).
It will be difficult to rivet it to the firewall flange like this and it
might create problems later when mounting the cowl (and it certainly doesn't
look good!).
Did anyone else come across this problem?
Thanks,
Roberto Giusti
RV-8 QB Fuselage
I am just fitting my f-821 now and it fits OK
Perhaps your QB fuselage has a small twist.
My fuselage has a small twist at the tail
end,which gave a problem lining up the
empenage.I finally decided to level
the emp. up with the main wing spar
at front of fuselage.
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@attcanada.ca
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: dodge this responsibility |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Bower" <rvbuilder@hotmail.com>
I can't help it...I must put in my $0.02 worth. To compare the current
president who served as a fighter pilot in the National Guard with the
previous one who lied about his intention to join ROTC then demonstrated
against the war in a foreign country is mean spirited and partisan to the
max.
What did GW Bush dodge? There are plenty of folks who served in National
Guard units who were in the same battles with regular military folks. Is it
his fault he was not called up during a war? Again, Mr. Clinton weasled his
way out of national service, lied, gave comfort to the enemy, then spent his
entire presidency gutting the military and barely conceling his disdain for
its existence. No comparison with the sitting president.
As for being in the Navy, I served 8 years (partially during the late
un-lamented Vietnam conflict). It was a heck of a lot safer than being on
the ground over there, which gratefully I didn't have to do. I do not
condider myself a slacker for not having been shot at. Now, can we get back
to talking about airplanes?
Jim Bower
St. Louis, MO
RV-6A Fuselage.
>From: "T H" <flyinggrizz@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: dodge this responsibility Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 15:06:32
>+0000
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "T H" <flyinggrizz@hotmail.com>
>
>I will not dodge this responsibility if
>called like some ex president we had.
>
>Glenn Williams
>
>Glenn I offer my full support to you and yours. As the son of a career Navy
>man I know what you loved ones are going through. I must point out however
>that the current president sending you to battle dodged his responsisility
>as well by being AWOL during the same conflict as the ex president. Dodge
>responsablity or break an oath, what's the differance? No intent to flame.
>
>Grizz
>
>do not archive
>
>Need a shot of Hank Williams or Patsy Cline? The classic country stars are
>always singing on MSN Radio Plus. Try one month free!
>
>
Has one of the new viruses infected your computer? Find out with a FREE
online computer virus scan from McAfee. Take the FreeScan now!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Westach egine instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: geoffkim@pdq.net
Anybody use Westach engine instrument gauges. Specifically, I am
considering using their CHT and EGT gauges with switches so one instrument
can report the reading from 4 different cylinders (separately) with a flip
of a switch. I'm trying to save panel space on an RV-8.
Thanks,
Geoff Kimbrough
RV-8
Katy, Texas
Message 11
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| Subject: | Anyone in VA giving Young Eagles rides? |
--> RV-List message posted by: czechsix@juno.com
Guys, sorry for the off-RV-topic post. I have a couple nieces who live
in Christiansburg, VA, who are wondering if anyone in their area gives
Young Eagles rides. The closest EAA chapter I could locate on the EAA
website was Ch. 906 in Dublin, VA. If there's anybody who knows of an
upcoming organized Young Eagles event in that area, please let me know
OFF LIST.
Thanks and do not archive,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D not giving any Y.E. rides yet....
Message 12
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| Subject: | I am (or should be) committed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Randy Richter <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
I went and did it. I bought the -7QB kit that Kip Haas advertised a few
weeks back.
That's the good news. The bad news is that I'm still activated (Air
National Guard guy (C-130 pilot) serving in the guise of a regular Air
Force dude for a while), so I'm not able to start construction yet. I'll
get to take at least one more tour in the desert before I'm deactivated,
so the kit's laying low in TX (I live in VA - I know, I know, it's a
long story, but it'll all work out in the end).
Wish me luck! You'll be hearing more from me in the form of newbie-type
questions.
Randy Richter
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Westach egine instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Geoff,
Yep, I have, but as I had plenty of panel space on my -6A , I
used four instruments, 2-dual CHT's and 2-dual EGT's. You can see them on my
panel in my Photo-Share I submitted on Dec 29 2002, re "RV6-A Tip-up Canopy
Stiffener". They are working fine and am happy with them. I suggest you use
a 2-pole, four position rotary (wafer)switch to select the EGT/CHT you want
to display so that there won't be any mix-up of individual switches.
Westach's # 2DC1 (round) or #2DA1 (square) in f would fit the bill.
Westach's thermocouples have plug-in connectors which convert the
thermocouple wire to standard stranded copper wire which is where you could
cut it to solder to the rotary switch.
Cheers!!-----Henry Hore
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV builders prayer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Dear Lord,
Please make this computer stop working for a long enough duration that I can finish
my RV-6...
Phil
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV builders prayer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Elsa & Henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
>Dear Lord,
>Please make this computer stop working for a long enough duration that I
can finish my RV-6...
>Phil
Amen!!------ As I wrote in a Post yesterday, I've been on the List for a
year or so and am glad I didn't know about it beforehand! Otherwise my -6A
would still be in the building stage instead of flying since Jun 02!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Cheers!!------Henry Hore
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: New anti-corrosion policy from Van's? |
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
Well, I must say I had the exact opposite experience. 3 years ago I purchased
a RV-4 empannage, wing, and finish kit #1500ish which from the best I can
tell was manufactured in the early 1980's sometime. I believe at the time Van's
did not put any plastic on any of the parts. I had a ton of wear marks on the
aluminum from shipping, storage, etc, but no corrosion. It appears to be in
the original crates from Van's although I don't know how it was stored during
the interim.
I guess I am just surprised you can find corrosion after 2 years when I have
a 20 year old kit and didn't have any......
I am very happy to say that I am the third owner of these kits, but I did
complete the aircrafta and have 100 hours on it in the first year! It sure looks
much better after paint anyways!
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 flying
N77EK RV-7 working on completing
N213RV RV-10 sitting in a crate awaiting to be started.......
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV builders prayer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Here's one better, inspired by Alan Shepard....
Please God, don't let me screw up!
Do No Archive
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A
canopy
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV builders prayer
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
>
> Dear Lord,
>
> Please make this computer stop working for a long enough duration that I
can finish my RV-6...
>
> Phil
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 18
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rv-list@matronics.com, vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I have searched the archives and did not find too much informative. Maybe I
did not search it properly.
My RV-4 runs very cool, too cool. My CHT's are around 380-400 F Max, and my
oil temp is only around 150F on a hot day.... I have a firewall mounted oil
cooler, 2.5:" scat tubing going to it, I have checked the oil temp probe and it
is accurate. I cannot seem to get any warmer temps unless I use duct tape to
block off air to the cowl.
I tried an adjustable door to the oil cooler to block off the air, but it
only helped increase the temps by about 10 degrees. I plan to install an
aluminum blocker on the baffles to simulate the duct tape blocking air into the
cowl.
Does anyone have any other ideas that I can try? Thanks for any help!
-Mike Kraus
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
I will second this post, I have an RV 4 that I have a very hard time getting
good oil temp on. My cooler is one out of a 172 and is on the left front
baffle. I fly all year with half of it blocked. This time of year it is
all blocked and temp doesn't make it to 150. I also have verified that the
temp gauge is accurate. Any ideas would be tried.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV@aol.com
rv-list@matronics.com; vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: Low Oil Temps
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I have searched the archives and did not find too much informative. Maybe I
did not search it properly.
My RV-4 runs very cool, too cool. My CHT's are around 380-400 F Max, and my
oil temp is only around 150F on a hot day.... I have a firewall mounted oil
cooler, 2.5:" scat tubing going to it, I have checked the oil temp probe and
it
is accurate. I cannot seem to get any warmer temps unless I use duct tape
to
block off air to the cowl.
I tried an adjustable door to the oil cooler to block off the air, but it
only helped increase the temps by about 10 degrees. I plan to install an
aluminum blocker on the baffles to simulate the duct tape blocking air into
the cowl.
Does anyone have any other ideas that I can try? Thanks for any help!
-Mike Kraus
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I forgot to add to this to the last post.....If you can keep the CHT's above
300, then it should be possible to get the oil temps to 180. There are a
couple of additional things here....assuming you can keep the CHT's above
300oF
Does your engine have a Vernitherm, or is it using a the viscosity valve??
If you have a Vernitherm installed you can get Vernitherms with differnt
temperature settings which can help the problem out. Also, the "plate" on
the back of the oil cooler sometimes is not sufficient, depending on the oil
cooler install. Some of the Harrison & Positech oil coolers still leave a
lot room for "leaky" airflow around the fins of the cooler, even if you have
a plate in the back. If this is the case, make sure to block of the air
source to the cooler. That will be much more effective than the plate
behind it.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe Hine
Subject: RE: RV-List: Low Oil Temps
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe Hine" <joehine@rogers.com>
I will second this post, I have an RV 4 that I have a very hard time getting
good oil temp on. My cooler is one out of a 172 and is on the left front
baffle. I fly all year with half of it blocked. This time of year it is
all blocked and temp doesn't make it to 150. I also have verified that the
temp gauge is accurate. Any ideas would be tried.
Joe Hine
C-FYTQ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of N223RV@aol.com
rv-list@matronics.com; vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RV-List: Low Oil Temps
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I have searched the archives and did not find too much informative. Maybe I
did not search it properly.
My RV-4 runs very cool, too cool. My CHT's are around 380-400 F Max, and my
oil temp is only around 150F on a hot day.... I have a firewall mounted oil
cooler, 2.5:" scat tubing going to it, I have checked the oil temp probe and
it
is accurate. I cannot seem to get any warmer temps unless I use duct tape
to
block off air to the cowl.
I tried an adjustable door to the oil cooler to block off the air, but it
only helped increase the temps by about 10 degrees. I plan to install an
aluminum blocker on the baffles to simulate the duct tape blocking air into
the cowl.
Does anyone have any other ideas that I can try? Thanks for any help!
-Mike Kraus
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: RV builders prayer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >Dear Lord,
> >Please make this computer stop working for a long enough duration that I
> can finish my RV-6...
> >Phil
>
> Amen!!------ As I wrote in a Post yesterday, I've been on the List for a
> year or so and am glad I didn't know about it beforehand! Otherwise my -6A
> would still be in the building stage instead of flying since Jun 02!
I'm on the flip side of the fence...if I didn't have access to all you guys
who have been-there-done-that, my kit would still look like blue plastic
covered scraps. I waste my fair share of time emailing and surfing, but you
guys are the best resource I could possibly have.
I wonder how anybody exchanged ideas before the days of web &
email...walking around at airshows and poking your head into hangars? Jeez,
what fun is that?! Just kidding.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Anyone in VA giving Young Eagles rides? |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
I give 'em all the time. Christiansburg is about 20 minutes from my house. Put
me in touch and we'll see if something can be worked out.
-Bill
RV-6A
Clifton Forge, VA
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel supply line tubing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Geoff Evans wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Geoff Evans <hellothaimassage@yahoo.com>
>
>My QB fuselage and wings didn't come with any 3/8" tubing for the fuel supply
>lines. All of the -6 fittings were included in the kit, but no tubing. It
>wasn't even listed on the parts list.
>
>I called Vans to ask about it and was told that it would be included in the
>finish kit. This seems really strange to me since the plans and instructions
>have you forming the fuel supply lines when you're attaching the wings to the
>fuselage for the first time -- clearly not part of the finish kit.
>
>Has anyone else had this problem?
>
>-Geoff
>RV-8 QB
>
>
It came with my QB Fuse kit! It was also on the parts inventory list,
--
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse :-)
Message 24
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| Subject: | using non-sheared wing tips on RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I simply do not like the looks of the wing tips that came with my RV-7.
They taper outboard as they run aft, and I just think that makes the plane
look silly. That's just my aesthetic preference.
So I'm trying to figure out how feasible it would be to use the older RV-6
style wing tips on my RV-7.
1) Does anybody know if the chord/profile of the wing is identical from
the -6 to the -7/-8?
2) I've read in the archives that the old non-sheared tips are actually
slightly better for top-end speed...is there any truth in practice to this?
3) What do you suppose the risks would be in swapping wing tip styles?
The reasons I'm motivated to try this would be:
- better looks
- easier to give the Archer com antenna more vertical polarization (I
believe)
- possibly better roll rate, lighter break-out force
- possibly higher top end
Reasons I might shy away from the conversion:
- Van's shifted to the new style for a reason
- the new tips have a built-in recess for lighting, I would have to make my
own
- less wing area, possibly less stability, lighter break-out force
I'll take any and all perspective on this, even if it's just "you're nuts,
stick with what Van's gives you."
Thanks in advance,
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
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